Monday, October 6, 2025

Saúl ‘Canelo’ Álvarez defends title vs John Ryder in Guadalajara

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Canelo holds up his championships belts v John Ryder
Álvarez is the only unified super-middleweight champion in Boxing history. His victory over Ryder was his 59th in 63 professional bouts. (Saúl Álvarez/Twitter)

A raucous group of 50,000 fans in Guadalajara saw hometown hero Saúl “Canelo” Álvarez take his 59th win as a professional boxer against Britain’s John Ryder on Saturday.

The world-famous tapatío bruiser successfully defended his titles and remains the only unified super-middleweight champion in the history of the sport. 

Canelo walks into the ring wearing a crown
Publicity for the fight proclaimed “The King is coming home” as Álvarez returned to fight in his native Guadalajara for the first time in 12 years. (Saúl Álvarez/Twitter)

A unified champion is a competitor who holds more than two championship titles from different boxing organizations in the same weight class. Álvarez holds all 4 titles in his division.

Promotion posters for the fight had declared, “The king is coming home,” and Álvarez — who weighed in on Cinco de Mayo for the bout at Guadalajara’s Degollado Theater accompanied by live mariachi music — did not disappoint, demonstrating why he is regarded as an all-time great of the middleweight division.

A near-capacity Akron Stadium saw a masterful Álvarez take a unanimous points win, 12 years after his last hometown bout. Two judges scored the fight 118–109 points to Álvarez, with the third favoring the Mexican more heavily at 120–107.

Ryder, from London, England, was faced by jeers as he walked toward the ring, in stark contrast to the explosion of adulation that greeted local favorite Álvarez. While Ryder launched a late comeback after falling in the fifth round, he failed to make enough of an impact to sway the judges once the fight went the distance.  

John Ryder in the ring
Defeat to Álvarez sees Ryder, who has enjoyed a long career in boxing, considering his options – including retirement from the sport. (Matchroom Sports/Twitter)

The victory —  Álvarez’s first of 2023 — marked redemption from the loss to Russian light heavyweight champion Dmitry Bivol almost exactly one year before. 

“I’m happy with the fight. I won, and I’m happy people had a great fight,” Álvarez said after his victory was confirmed in an interview with television outlet DAZN. “He’s a strong fighter. I knew that; I’m not surprised about it.”

Victory for the defeated Englishman likely would have seen him extend his career, but the 34 year-old now faces questions about a potential retirement, after a second failed title fight. While his promoter, boxing stalwart Eddie Hearn, discussed the possibility of an upcoming U.S. fight, defeat to Álvarez may mark the end of his 13-year career in the sport.

With reporting by Forbes and BBC Sport

Poll: Sheinbaum’s popularity rises in race to be Morena’s 2024 pick

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Sheinbaum in Chihuahua
Claudia Sheinbaum remains on course for the Morena nomination in next year's elections. Her lead over closest rival, Marcelo Ebrard, has grown in 2023. (Gobierno de la Ciudad de Mexico/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum has extended her lead over Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard as the preferred candidate for the ruling Morena party at the 2024 presidential election.

An El Financiero newspaper poll also shows that the alliance of Morena, the Labor Party (PT) and the Green Party (PVEM) has a 20-point lead over the three-party Va por México opposition bloc, made up of the National Action Party (PAN), the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD).

Esclaudia in Hidalgo
Sheinbaum is the preferred candidate of many Morena voters.The party has a 20-point lead over its nearest rivals, with a little more than year before the presidential elections. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)

Sheinbaum, who declared late last year that she is ready to take on the nation’s top job, was the preferred Morena candidate of 34% of 900 people polled by El Financiero in late April.

Support for the mayor was up three points compared to March, while the percentage of respondents who nominated Ebrard as their preferred candidate declined one point to 18%.

Interior Minister Adán Augusto López Hernández was chosen by 10% of those polled as their preferred candidate for Morena and its allies, while Gerardo Fernández Noroña, a deputy with the PT, and Senator Ricardo Monreal, Morena’s leader in the upper house, received 7% and 6% support, respectively.

Almost a quarter of the respondents didn’t nominate a preferred Morena candidate.

Ebrard handing out copies of his new book on his national book tour
Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard, whom polls put behind Sheinbaum in the race for the Morena nomination, is currently touring Mexico to support his new book, which promotes his vision of Mexican politics. (Marcelo Ebrard/Twitter)

Results of El Financiero’s polling show that support for Sheinbaum has steadily increased this year while Ebrard has lost ground every month since January. The publication of the results on Monday comes ahead of the official launch of Morena’s selection process next month.

“The call for applications will be issued in the second half of June,” Morena’s national president, Mario Delgado, said last week. “… Everyone who wants to participate will register. It will be an open process.”

President López Obrador, who founded Morena, reportedly asked the party to select its candidate by August, but Delgado indicated that a “second and definitive survey” to choose a flag bearer won’t be held until September or October. The potential candidates who fare best in a first survey of Morena members in July or August will advance to the second round, the party chief explained.

El Financiero’s latest poll results also show that Sheinbaum has a significant advantage over Ebrard in terms of what people think of them. Just under half of the respondents —49% — said they had a favorable opinion of the Mexico City mayor, while only 35% said the same about the foreign minister. A third of respondents said they had an unfavorable opinion of Ebrard while just over a quarter said the same about Sheinbaum

A 2021 accident on a Mexico City Metro line that claimed the lives of 26 people is considered an electoral burden for both potential candidates. The line was built while Ebrard was Mexico City mayor between 2006 and 2012, while the accident occurred on Sheinbaum’s watch.

Among potential opposition candidates, PAN Senator Lilly Téllez, who defected from Morena in 2020, is considered the best choice by 15% of respondents to El Financiero’s latest poll, ahead of PRI Senator Claudia Ruiz Massieu (12%).

PRI Senator Beatriz Paredes received 8% support, former PAN national president Ricardo Anaya, who contested the 2018 presidential election, was the preferred candidate of 7% of respondents and former Mexico City mayor and current PRD Senator Miguel Ángel Mancera was endorsed by 6% of those polled.

The Citizens Movement party (MC) has also indicated it will contest next year’s presidential election, but two of its potential candidates are not particularly popular among the electorate, El Financiero found.

The collapsed section of Line 12 after the accident in May.
The collapse of an overpass on Line 12 of the Mexico City Metro last May is a political liability for both Sheinbaum, the city’s current mayor, and Ebrard, who was mayor when Line 12 was opened.

Just 14% of poll respondents said they had a favorable opinion of Nuevo León Governor Samuel García, while 39% expressed an unfavorable view and 31% declared they didn’t know him.

Monterrey Mayor Luis Donaldo Colosio Riojas, son of slain 1994 PRI presidential candidate Luis Donaldo Colosio Murrieta, fared only slightly better, with 19% of those poll expressing a favorable opinion of the potential candidate and 27% expressing an unfavorable one.

El Financiero also asked respondents which party they would vote for if the presidential election was held on the day they were polled. Morena was the clear winner, with 49% opting for the ruling party, ahead of the PAN (19%), the PRI (12%) and MC (7%).

The Morena-PT-PVEM alliance together attracted 54% support, while the PAN-PRI-PRD bloc, which announced in January it would field a common candidate, had combined backing of 34%.

Those figures, as well as the results of previous polls, indicate that Morena will secure a second consecutive six-year term of government at the June 2, 2024 election.

The ruling party will also be seeking to improve its position in Congress, after losing seats in both the Chamber of Deputies and Senate at elections in 2021.

With reports from El Financiero and La Jornada

Boosters, busts and battles: the week at the mañaneras

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Andrés Manuel López Obrador
Back to his daily morning press conferences after missing four last week while ill with COVID, President López Obrador covered everything from aviation to intercepted Chinese shipments to feral animals. (Gob MX)

Having recovered from his third bout of COVID, President López Obrador presided over all five of his morning press conferences (known as mañaneras) in the first week of May, four more than the number he appeared at last week.

He also delivered two public addresses – one at the National Palace on Monday to mark International Workers Day and another in Puebla on Friday to commemorate the 161st anniversary of the Battle of Puebla.

AMLO at morning press conference
President López Obrador giving a speech to mark International Workers’ Day on Monday. (Gob MX)

AMLO still has 17 months left as president, but he is already thinking about who will take his place in October 2024. A report published early this week said that he had asked the ruling Morena party to choose its candidate for the June 2024 presidential election within three months.

Monday

“We’re very happy to start the week, today, on this historic date,” López Obrador said, referring to International Workers’ Day.

“… It’s a tribute … in honor of the martyrs of Chicago, workers who demanded working days of eight hours … in 1886.”

Continuing the labor theme, the head of the National Tourism Promotion Fund reported that the construction of the Maya Train railroad between Calkiní, Campeche, and Izamal, Yucatán, has created over 11,000 jobs.

Javier May said that tracks have been laid along 92 kilometers of the 159-kilometer section, which includes a station on the outskirts of Mérida, the capital of Yucatán.

The governor of that state was on hand, and noted that among the other Maya Train stations in Yucatán will be those in the colonial cities of Izamal and Valladolid and one near the ancient Mayan city of Chichén Itzá.

“We see the Maya Train as a good project for the state of Yucatán,” said Mauricio Vila, a National Action Party governor with aspirations for higher office.

Mauricio Vila
Mauricio Vila, governor of Yucatán, at the Monday morning press conference. (Gob MX)

Having a “fast and efficient means of transportation” will allow Yucatán to attract some of the millions of tourists who visit Cancún and the Riviera Maya, he said.

“Without a doubt, [the Maya Train] is a project that will generate economic development and more jobs in Yucatán,” Vila said, noting that the railroad will benefit manufacturing companies as raw materials will be able to reach the state on freight trains.

Back at the mañanera lectern, AMLO turned his attention to other government projects, reiterating that a new state-owned commercial airline will begin operations under the defunct Mexicana de Aviación brand in 2023, and stressing that his administration intends to complete the rail link from central Mexico City to the Felipe Ángeles International Airport before the end of the year.

He also said that the process to recover the Category 1 aviation safety rating with United States authorities – which Mexico lost in 2021 – is “progressing very well.”

All the requirements for the recovery of the top-tier rating – whose reinstatement would allow Mexican airlines to add new flights to the U.S. – “have already been met,” López Obrador said.

The president later acknowledged that the head of the National Immigration Institute (INM), Francisco Garduño, had been ordered to stand trial on a charge related to the fire in a Ciudad Juárez detention center in late March that claimed the lives of 40 migrants. However, he declined to comment further.

“If I tell you something about Garduño, Reforma’s headline tomorrow will be, ‘He protected Garduño,” López Obrador said, referring to his least favorite Mexican newspaper.

Among other remarks, AMLO praised the strength of the Mexican economy, which expanded 3.8% in the first quarter of the year compared to the same period of 2022.

“We’re doing very well in economic terms, not just because there is growth … but also because of something fundamental that didn’t exist in the neoliberal period. There is growth with distribution of income, growth with distribution of wealth, growth with wellbeing,” he said.

Tuesday

During a security update in the first half of the presser, Navy Minister José Rafael Ojeda Durán mentioned two curious drug seizures.

Bottles of liquid methamphetamine
Discovered after a sniffer dog alerted customs teams, the drugs were disguised as bottles of “añejo” — aged tequila.(Semar)

More than 8.6 tonnes of liquid methamphetamine was found last week in Manzanillo in a shipment of 960 boxes of tequila bound for Australia, while 7.2 kilograms of ketamine was uncovered at Mexico City airport in a box of dried seafood, he said.

National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval later reported that authorities have confiscated 588.1 million Mexican pesos (US $32.7 million) and US $129.5 million in cash from criminals since the current government took office in December 2018.

Responding to a question about street dogs and feral cats and how to control them, López Obrador asserted that animals mustn’t be mistreated before embarking on a monologue about behaviors that were once considered normal but are unacceptable today.

“In the case of dogs, for example, even though they were, and continue to be, the faithful friends of campesinos, … there was, and continues to be, mistreatment. They’re beaten, stones are thrown at them and all this has to change,” he said.

“… In the countryside, when we were kids, we used … slingshots [against animals] – now they can’t be used. And many other things were seen as normal. … Turtle [meat] and turtle eggs were eaten before. There was even the myth that [eating] turtle eggs was linked to virility, … they even sold loggerhead turtle eggs in [the Mexico City neighborhood of] Tepito,” AMLO continued.

“… Now neither turtles nor turtle eggs are eaten. … I believe the area in which Mexicans have made the most progress in recent times is in political awareness and ecological awareness. For example, it was very common to take photos of oneself smoking, … it was a mark of manliness, of machismo, of virility. [Smoking] isn’t allowed now, not even at home because [one’s] children don’t permit it, just as they don’t let adults mistreat animals – it’s a new mentality,” he said.

López Obrador later defended his government’s human rights record when a reporter asserted that the deaths of the migrants in the Ciudad Juárez detention center fire were indicative of a country where such rights aren’t respected.

“There is a difference like that from heaven to earth between what previous governments did and what we’re doing in terms of human rights,” he said.

The survivors of the fire are receiving medical care that has saved their lives, he continued.

“They were taken to specialized hospitals with the best doctors and thanks to that they haven’t died,” AMLO said.

“… This tragedy happened and a complete investigation is being carried out – something that wasn’t done before. …. A lot of human rights organizations financed by the mafias of power are constantly pointing out things that are supposedly mistakes on our part [but] we act out of conviction and with humanism,” he said.

“… We don’t protect anyone, there is no impunity, we’re not the same as the neoliberal governments … our country has suffered. … In this government there haven’t been massacres, no one is tortured, human rights are not violated by the state.”

Elizabeth Sherwood-Randall and President López Obrador
U.S. envoy Elizabeth Sherwood-Randall with President López Obrador on Tuesday. (AMLO/Twitter)

Before bringing his presser to a close, AMLO noted that he would meet later in the day with Elizabeth Sherwood-Randall, homeland security advisor to United States President Joe Biden.

Security minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez told reporters that migration, arms trafficking and drug trafficking would be on the agenda at the Mexico City meeting.

Wednesday

Ana García Vilchis began her “Who’s Who in the Lies of the Week” segment by denouncing a Twitter account that “usurps the identity of the government of Mexico.”

Created under the name Información Oficial Gobierno de México, the account, García said, went viral this week when it published a graph that showed that the government slashed funding for the treatment of children with cancer by 97% in 2021 compared to 2015.

“The data is false,” the spokeswoman said, adding that the account also publishes false information about public expenditure and debt.

“They’re so deceitful that they insert a link that redirects to a fake Ministry of Finance page. All the information is false, they straight out lie,” García said before noting that ex-president Vicente Fox and former first lady and current Deputy Margarita Zavala used the spurious health funding post to attack the government.

Did they act out of “ignorance or malice?” she asked.

The director of the National Council of Science and Technology (Conacyt) spoke after García, and announced that a Mexico-produced COVID-19 vaccine called Patria was ready for use as a booster shot.

María Elena Álvarez-Buylla
The Conacyt director speaks at the Wednesday press conference. (Gob MX)

María Elena Álvarez-Buylla said that the vaccine, developed by Conacyt in conjunction with a veterinary pharmaceutical company, meets the safety and effectiveness criteria established by the World Health Organization.

“We now have the Patria vaccine [ready to use] and that’s great news for our country,” she said.

During his engagement with reporters, López Obrador mentioned that he still held out hope that various nations of the Americas would one day form a united bloc, “as was the ideal of Simón Bolívar.”

AMLO, who has previously called for Latin American and Caribbean leaders to aspire to the establishment of a European Union-style bloc, said that “instead of impositions and subjugations” in the region, there should be “cooperation for development and people’s wellbeing.”

There should be “fraternity between the people of America – universal fraternity as foreign policy,” he added.

López Obrador later revealed that he had sent a letter to United States President Joe Biden to complain about the U.S. Agency for International Development’s funding of groups that are “openly” opposed to the federal government.

The president, who has been denouncing such funding for about two years, apologized to Sherwood-Randall, the U.S. official with whom he met Tuesday, “because I told her in private … that I wasn’t going to send [the] letter so as not to bother President Biden.”

“… But … I did send it. Why did I change my mind? Because the truth is that I feel that [funding opposition groups] is very arrogant, very offensive and I can’t remain quiet,” López Orador said.

In his letter, which he read aloud at his presser, the president described the United States’ funding of opposition groups as an “interventionist act contrary to international law” and called on Biden to address the matter.

During his final remarks of the morning, AMLO said he would be “very calm” when he leaves office next year because he will have completed his “mission” and has confidence in those seeking the Morena party candidacy at the 2024 presidential election.

Thursday

A team of teenage soccer players from Nuevo León were present at the National Palace, where AMLO and Nuevo León Governor Samuel García congratulated them on winning a tournament in Spain organized by the Real Madrid Foundation.

Teen soccer players
These teenage soccer players were invited to the National Palace for the Thursday morning presser. (Samuel García/Twitter)

García said that the Mexican team was the only one that included girls, and advised Liga MX professional teams to take a look at the “very good players.”

One reporter asked López Obrador what message he would like to send to Tulum Mayor Diego Castañón, who took over the job in March due to the death of Marciano Dzul Caamal.

“He has to work in coordination with [Quintana Roo] Governor Mara Lezama,” AMLO responded, adding that the mayor should also collaborate with federal security forces to combat criminal gangs that traffic drugs.

The presence of gangs “frightens off” tourists, he said before noting that Tulum’s beaches and archaeological site make the destination a “paradise.”

López Obrador said he had hadn’t received any complaints about the new mayor and hoped that would remain the case.

Later in his response, he reiterated that the Tulum airport will open in December, and asserted that the facility, which is being built by the army, is “essential” because the Cancún airport is “saturated.”

Render images of the planned Tulum International Airport
Renderings of planned features of Tulum International Airport, including a military base and a Maya Train station (in the bottom right box). (Sedena)

The president was later asked about a letter in which sons of imprisoned drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán, who were indicted in the United States last month, assert that they have “never produced, manufactured or commercialized fentanyl.”

“I don’t know the content [of the letter],” López Obrador said. “… We don’t offer an opinion about that … and we don’t speculate.”

He subsequently emphasized that, “unlike what happened before,” the government doesn’t protect any organized crime group.

“Before, as it has been clearly shown, one group or one cartel was protected and others were pursued,” AMLO said, referring to former security minister Genaro García Luna’s proven collusion with the Sinaloa Cartel.

“… [Now] the line is very clear, and we’ve always said so. There is a clear line [between] the authorities and [organized] crime.”

López Obrador later rejected a report that claimed that friends of one of his sons benefited from that friendship by obtaining lucrative government contracts.

If the journalist who made the claim, Carlos Loret de Mola, has proof of corruption, he should take it to the Attorney General’s Office, he said.

“My sons aren’t corrupt. … Watch the report.  It’s nothing, it’s desperation, it’s slander,” AMLO said before bluntly rejecting the suggestion that the situation was one of a conflict of interest.

Friday

AMLO’s Cinco de Mayo press conference was held in Puebla, where Mexico won a battle against invading French forces on May 5, 1862.

“We’re very happy to be here in Puebla on this memorable day,” López Obrador said.

“… We’re going to participate in the celebration of the battle … in which the Mexican Army, with the participation of the people, … defeated the French Army, which at that time was the most powerful army in the world,” he said.

May 5 press conference
AMLO at the Friday morning press conference with members of his cabinet. (Gob MX)

National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval offered an overview of the security situation in Puebla, which he noted has a population of 6.5 million people across its 217 municipalities.

The incidence of all but three crimes is on the wane, he said before providing specific data for a range of offenses. There were just two kidnappings in Puebla in March, while there were 69 homicides, 190 burglaries and 468 reported incidents of vehicle theft, Sandoval said.

Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard subsequently reported that the United States issued over 360,000 temporary work visas to Mexicans in 2022.

“The figure of 360,656 visas was reached – it’s the highest number in the history of our country. … We hope the figure is a little higher this year,” he said.

AMLO later thanked United States President Biden for opening up new legal pathways to work in the U.S.

“What do I say to our brothers from Central America, the Caribbean, … South America, Latin America? Go to the United States embassies, … the American diplomats there … will provide all the information,” he said.

After Navy Minister José Rafael Ojeda Durán reported that authorities had detected a shipment of fentanyl and methamphetamine from China in the Pacific coast port city of Lázaro Cárdenas, AMLO said he would send a letter to Chinese President Xi Jinping to inform him of the seizure.

The president, who already wrote to Xi to seek his support in the fight against fentanyl, said that he would once again request information about the trafficking of the synthetic opioid from China to Mexico.

A Chinese government spokesperson said in April that “there is no such thing as illegal trafficking of fentanyl between China and Mexico,” but López Obrador noted that his administration now has “proof” that there is.

The event commemorating the May 5 Battle of Puebla
The president, his wife and cabinet members at the commemoration of the 161st anniversary of the Battle of Puebla. (Gob MX)

Before departing for breakfast to fuel up for his address to mark the anniversary of the Battle of Puebla, AMLO acknowledged that the World Health Organization had declared an end to COVID-19 as a public health emergency and noted that officials of his government would meet on Monday to discuss whether to follow suit.

Health officials will announce Mexico’s decision on Tuesday, he said shortly before bidding reporters farewell.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

Original CDMX pueblo has fought for centuries to keep its traditions

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Traditional charro dancers in the Texcalco section of Meyehualco, Mexico City
Traditional charro dancers in the Texcalco section of Meyehualco demonstrate both their dance moves and their elaborate costumes.  (credit Alejandro Linares Garcia)

There are really two Meyehualcos — the modern section of Mexico City’s Iztapalapa borough and the old original pueblo that struggles to survive.

The name Meyehualco comes from the Indigenous Nahuatl language, meaning “place of the maguey plants.” It reflects the community’s rural, agricultural heritage but also a long history of domination. 

Parish church of Pueblo Meyehualco (
Parish church of Pueblo Meyehualco. It’s one of the few structures of the original village still standing. (CDMX Culture Ministry)

Until the 20th century, the name referred only to a village/town founded by migrating Chichimecas in 1496. 

They are not easy to find, but the village’s layout and main structures still exist. An arch just off Calzada Ermita Iztapalapa indicates the old town entrance, and just south of that is a typical plaza and a parish church. 

Known as Pueblo Santa Cruz Meyehualco (or sometimes as Barrio Santa Cruz Meyehualco), it is one of 15 original settlements in what is now the Iztapalapa borough, and its story demonstrates these original settlements’ struggles against urban sprawl.

Outside the old village, the streets immediately assume a grid pattern, a result of encapsulation by the growth of Mexico City in the 20th century. The families go back many generations, and the old stories and rivalries still matter. This includes the old division of Pueblo Meyehualco into the Huexotitlan and Texcalco neighborhoods. 

Meyehualco, Mexico City cronista (historian) José Antonio Rivera Martínez
Meyehualco’s historian José Antonio Rivera Martínez gives an interview at the El Danzón pulque bar, which features decorations related to the original pueblo’s history and culture. (Alejandro Linares García)

This used to be a division between the (relatively) rich and poor; in the past, those from one could not marry those from the other, but today the rivalry is friendly. All did, and still do, come together to celebrate Meyehualco’s patron saint, Our Lord of the Cross, on May 3 with food, fireworks and processions.

Throughout Meyehualco’s history, its agriculture, labor and volcanic stone were exploited for the ruling classes of Mexico City. But it remained physically independent until less than 100 years ago. 

One ugly reality of growing metropolises is that they need a “hidden” place to dump their garbage, and in the 1940s, Meyehualco became one such place. From then until the 1980s, over 44,712,500 tons of trash were dumped in an area north of the village proper, says Iztapalapa historian Beatriz Ramírez, an ecological disaster for both agriculture and what was left of Lake Texcoco there. 

The dump was iconic enough to be the setting of one movie from Mexico’s Golden Age of Film, “El Hombre de Papel” (The Paper Man), the story of one man who made his living from picking recyclables, as many families did for more than 40 years. 

Old picture of Meyehualco, Mexico City landfill with Mexico City in the background
Photo of the old landfill, date unknown, with the encroaching Mexico City in the background. (Archivo Histórico de Iztapalapa)

As the city continued to grow, parts of the dump were redeveloped starting as early as the 1950s. 

The “other” Meyehualco centers on the Unidad Habitacional Santa Cruz Meyehualco housing complex or Colonia Santa Cruz Meyehualco. It began with 3,000 housing units built between 1958 and 1963 and then filled with residents from other parts of Mexico City. This project also included a municipal market that still exists today, with a mural dedicated to “El Hombre del Papel.” 

Nearby are the Old Tianguis and the New Tianguis, two street markets whose histories grew out of the economic crises of the 1980s and a somewhat-successful attempt to move the Old Tianguis after the 2017 earthquake.

Much of the rest of the dump was converted into Cuitláhuac Park. It was established in the 1990s with the ambitious goal of creating a new major urban green space in the poor eastern side of the city. The park is indeed impressive — 145 hectares with various sports facilities, regenerated wetlands and, interestingly, a drug rehab center. 

Mexicans preparing a sawdust carpet in Mexico City
Preparing a sawdust “carpet” on one of the streets where the sacred image of Our Lord of the Cross passes by in procession. (credit Alejandro Linares García)

It is a work-in-progress including IztapaSauria, a huge dinosaur exhibition, Utopia Meyehualco sporting and entertainment complex in 2021. But this development draws community focus away from the old Pueblo, which can be easily overlooked by visitors to the area.

People like Meyehualco cronista (historian) José Antonio Rivera Martínez work to save the town’s history, identity, and relevance in the face of ever-growing cultural imposition from the rest of the city they are officially part of. 

People like him, from the old families, say that those in the colonia, (the modern neighborhoods) do not know the local culture or traditions and are outsiders. Rivera points to the stories and histories of the buildings and people to make the case that the city needs to do more to help protect it. 

The best-known of its traditions is its Carnival. Most of Iztapalapa’s old towns have a carnival, with staggered dates ranging from just before Lent and on through to Easter. Pueblo Meyehualco’s turn is the week after Ash Wednesday, and is a curious mix of tradition and modernity. 

Its origins are murky but are from no later than the 19th century. It’s been put on each year without fail with only two exceptions: one for the Mexican Revolution and the other for Covid.

In the past, the celebration of Carnival brought out the old rich/poor division. Those in Texcalco dressed in highly-decorated costumes, and those from the humbler Huexotitlan made do with burlap sacks to make costumes today called costales. The costales costume has been abandoned in favor of the charro for both neighborhoods at carnival, but it still appears in local murals and other artwork. 

Rivera states that events like Carnival and its patron saint day are important to “recover the streets” from the surrounding urban encroachment. But despite the fact that Carnival is a cultural and economic success, that “recovery” is not complete. Other costumes, such as those depicting elements of modern popular culture and even politically-themed disguises, are not uncommon. 

It proves Rivera’s point that preserving the old ways and identities is difficult because “… Social development and neoliberalism are imposing new cultural norms, which the young people absorb, and they don’t want to participate so much in the pueblo’s traditions.” 

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Texas is a state of mind — but should its history be too?

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Illustration about Texas history education
(Illustration by Angy Marquez)

There are only a few things that I remember about my 7th-grade Texas history class. 

One is my teacher: a tall, somewhat portly man with a kind face who would get tears in his eyes every time he talked about Sam Houston, his hero. He was in his 60s, lived with and cared for his mother, and played the piano. Once he chuckled warmly, clearly charmed that I pronounced the word “sweat” as “sweet” when reading out loud from the textbook, which made me feel about 20% less embarrassed than I would have otherwise.

From the content of the class itself, I remember very little, except that the Mexicans were the bad guy aggressors, trying to block the inevitable flow of history toward freedom and independence.

I’m a much better student these days, much better at paying attention now that I’m no longer preoccupied with the boys in the class I think are cute (these classes really are wasted on the young).

And having just come back from Texas a few weeks ago with a borrowed book, “Forget the Alamo in hand, I’ve got my home state — the Lone Star state! — and all its peculiarities on my mind.

Texas is, after all, a state of mind. You also should not mess with it, I’m told, or tread on …someone, whatever that means; the “someone” is possibly a snake. Furthermore, one can go to Texas while the rest can go to hell, and naysayers are also invited to “come and take it — “it” being a stand-in for pretty much anything (these days, probably guns).

All of these charming phrases are available for purchase on T-shirts, mugs and beer cozies at a relatively new but already deeply-loved Texan institution, Buc-ee’s

Texas even has some famous fans, most notably, Phil Collins. He could very well be the Alamo’s number-one fan, in fact, and has spent stupid amounts of money amassing one of the most impressive collections of Texas artifacts in the world. I know this fun fact because I read it out loud in a Texas Monthly article to my sister on one of our hours-long trips across our gigantic state.

But reading more deeply about my home state’s history has given way to some startling realizations. I always knew, I suppose, that the “heroes of Texas Independence” weren’t saints. Still, there are some important details that have made my eyebrows go way up.

Texas and Mexico have always had a contentious relationship. While there’s Mexican influence aplenty blended in with the overall Texas culture, it’s clear who’s in charge.

Mexican-ness in Texas has always been something separate, considered by most without Mexican heritage to be a tacked-on rather than homegrown feature. Tejanos, or at least tejano culture, are generally treated by the more powerful Texians as guests who’ve overstayed their visit but whom they’re too embarrassed to ask to leave since this home did once belong to them.

Spanish, the European language of the land preceding English, is merely an elective in school like it is everywhere else in the country. Also like the rest of the country, Texas has a difficult and fraught racial history to contend with, the effects of which can still be quite clearly seen today. 

Well. As we all know, the winners write the history books.

And write them they did. I never understood, for example, that the whole motivation for Texas’ independence from Mexico was about preserving its right to keep slaves. Did you know that? According to Texas government records, there were about 5,000 slaves there by the time of the Texas Revolution in 1836, 30,000 by the annexation a decade later, and 182,566 by 1860 — more than 30% of the total state population. 

Was I really just not paying attention in Texas history class, or was the mention of slavery merely a footnote, if that?

In case you don’t know it, here’s the story in a nutshell: Before any Europeans got to the Americas, it was, as we know, occupied. That meant little to the Europeans, of course, and Texas — as well as what currently makes up the southwest United States — was claimed for New Spain in 1690. When Mexicans gained independence from Spain in 1821 (a war that began in 1810), Texas became a part of the new nation.

For most of its early history as a Mexican territory, however, Texas was pretty sparsely populated by Mexicans or any other European-descended people, for that matter.

First of all, there were no Buc-ee’s back then — that’s minus 10 points right there. Plus, the combination of (rightly) aggressive Indigenous groups and oppressive heat made it the backwoods where no one was exactly dying to live.

Mexico had a hard time getting very many of its citizens to populate it, and with good reason: who wants to deal with heat, frequent attacks plus no Buc-ee’s?

All kinds of riffraff from the eastern U.S. were plenty willing, though, to take their chances on claiming a lot of land. Texas was attractive because you could get rich there. Alas, there was really only one way to do it: having slaves work your cotton fields.

So, quite a few gringos started moving in, most illegally. But since Mexico wasn’t able to get enough Mexicans to live there in the first place, it was a relatively easy immigration invasion to make. Before they realized it, Texas had a downright infestation on their hands of people who didn’t speak Spanish, weren’t Catholic and blithely ignored their laws.

The biggest problem, however, was that the newly independent Mexico was an abolitionist state; slavery was outlawed in 1829.

But without slavery, there was no reason to go to Texas in the first place, in the gringos’ minds, anyway. They found ways around the laws for a while with things they shouldn’t have been able to get away with, like saying they didn’t know about the laws because they didn’t speak Spanish — and later, classifying their slaves on paper as “servants.” 

It got out of Mexico’s hands quickly, and by the time Santa Anna said, “enough is enough,” the weird wheels of history, complete with bizarre accidents that make it feel like fate, were already in motion. 

In short, the invaders of Texas took over and made it their own, casting themselves as righteous heroes against their dictatorial Mexican aggressors. We all know what happened next, because here we are: the Mexican border no longer goes past the Rio Grande.

It’s been a couple hundred years, but the echoes of history are still bouncing off the walls, and the tension between Mexico and their smiling, blue-eyed guests will likely never completely disappear.

Under the circumstances, it’s honestly a wonder they’ve been so patient with us. Of course, they’re in no danger of being overrun by us now — we think. 

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com

Spring has sprung, and that means fresh dill!

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Dill
Minced fresh dill brightens up almost any potato or dairy dish — and plenty others too!

Springtime means that lots of beautiful produce starts appearing in markets and shops that we haven’t seen for a while. Mazatlán’s farmers’ market last weekend was a good example, with a cornucopia of goodies spilling from baskets, boxes and tables.

Fresh herbs were in abundance: fragrant bunches of basil (albahaca, pronounced “al-bah-cah”), parsley (perejil), sage (salvia), rosemary (romero) and — could it be?! — fresh dill (eneldo). 

Dill
Traces of dill have been found in some of the pharaohs’ tombs in Egypt.

Fresh dill is something that isn’t found often, at least where I live, so this was a treat. I love having fresh herbs in the kitchen, and while cilantro is always wonderful and I appreciate having it available year-round for literally pennies, having other options is cool too. 

It’s dill that we crave in pickles, in a sour cream dip or in a sauce for salmon. Minced fresh dill brightens up almost any potato or dairy dish, lending its characteristic flavor and aroma and adding a note of complexity. A simple summer salad of sliced cucumbers, rice wine vinegar, salt, freshly ground black pepper and some fresh dill is a welcome dish for the hot summer days ahead.

Traces of dill have been found in some of the pharaoh’s tombs in Egypt, dating to 1400 B.C. It’s a kitchen staple in Scandinavia, Russia, Ukraine and central and eastern Europe (think borscht or gravlax). Dill is not used very extensively in Mexican cuisine, other than in the dishes mentioned above.

Fresh dill will always have the most flavor, and while you can freeze the fresh stuff, it won’t taste quite the same or be as strong. Dried dill and dill seeds can also be found, each of which has a slightly different though distinctively dill flavor.

Persian Dill Rice
Add some minced fresh dill atop plain, cooked rice to make it into a more exotic Persian Dill Rice!

Dill and Garlic Vodka

  • ½ cup loosely packed dill, washed, patted dry, tough stems removed
  • 1 clove peeled garlic
  • 750 ml. vodka

Put dill, garlic and vodka in an airtight glass container (like a Mason jar). Seal tightly and refrigerate for 24–48 hours. Strain into a glass pitcher; add fresh sprigs of dill and a few cucumber slices. Serve very cold.

Persian Dill Rice

  • ½ large bunch dill, trimmed and finely chopped
  • 1-2 Tbsp. dried dill
  • 1 cups Basmati or other rice (to be cooked)

Set aside 3 Tbsp. of chopped fresh dill. In a bowl, combine the remainder of fresh dill with the dried dill. Fold dill mixture into hot cooked rice; cover with lid and let sit about 10 minutes. 

Gently fluff with a fork, then transfer to a serving platter, scattering the reserved fresh dill in between spoonfuls of rice.

Dill Vinaigrette

  • 1 large garlic clove, finely grated
  • 1 Tbsp. rice vinegar
  • 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill
  • ½ tsp. fish sauce, Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce
  • Pinch of sugar
  • Salt and pepper

In small bowl or shaker jar, combine garlic, rice vinegar, olive oil, dill, fish sauce, sugar, 1 Tbsp. cold water, salt and pepper. Whisk or shake until well combined. Toss with salad greens. 

Dill Avocado Ranch dressing
This Dill-Avocado Ranch dressing is an addictive alternative for those who can’t have dairy.

Nondairy Avocado Ranch Dressing

  • 1 medium ripe avocado
  • ½ cup roughly chopped dill, plus more as needed
  • 4 tsp. dill pickle brine, plus more as needed
  • 1 small garlic clove, grated
  • 3 Tbsp. finely chopped dill pickles
  • Salt and pepper

In food processor or blender, combine avocado, fresh dill, pickle brine and garlic with ⅓ cup water. Season with salt and pepper. Process until smooth. 

Stir in chopped pickles. Taste and adjust with more brine, water, salt, pepper and dill. Refrigerate up to two days. (The top may brown, but just stir it in.)

Butter-Poached Shrimp with Dill Mayo

  • 2 tsp. toasted whole coriander seeds or ½ tsp. ground coriander 
  • 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
  • ½ cup dry white wine, plus more if needed
  • 1 pound shelled large shrimp
  • Juice of 1 lemon, divided in half, plus more to taste
  • ¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
  • ¼ cup chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish
  • ½ cup mayonnaise (or make it yourself)
  • ¼-½ tsp. salt

To make the dill mayo: In a small bowl, whisk lemon zest and juice from half the lemon, dill, mayonnaise and pinch of salt. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice if needed.

To toast the coriander seeds, use a mortar and pestle or a cutting board and the flat side of a knife to crack the seeds. Add seeds to a large dry saucepan over medium heat; stir and toast 1 minute or until fragrant. 

Add butter and wine to pan. (If using ground coriander, add it now.) Swirl until butter melts, 2–3 minutes. 

Add shrimp, remaining lemon juice and pinch of salt. Liquid should come about halfway up sides of shrimp; add a splash more wine to the pan if needed. Gently poach shrimp for 2 minutes, flip and cook for another 1–2 minutes, until pink and just cooked through. 

Pour shrimp and juices into shallow bowl. Top with dollops of dill mayo. Garnish with dill fronds and serve.

Butter poached shrimp with dill mayo
Butter-poached shrimp with a dollop of dill mayo is a decadent treat!

Chicken and Potatoes with Feta, Lemon and Dill

  • 3 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 2 Tbsp. lemon juice 
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • ½ tsp. dried oregano
  • Salt and pepper
  • 1½-2 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (4-6 thighs)
  • 4-6 new or baby potatoes, cut into ¾-inch pieces
  • 2 oz. feta cheese, crumbled (about ½ cup)
  • 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill

Whisk 2 Tbsp. olive oil with 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, garlic, oregano, 1 tsp. salt and ½ tsp. pepper in a bowl. Add chicken; toss to coat. Let marinate at least 30 minutes, or up to 8 hours, covered, in refrigerator.

Heat oven to 425 F (220 C). On sheet pan, drizzle potatoes with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss well and move to one side of pan. 

Pat chicken dry and evenly space thighs on the other side of the pan. Roast 15 minutes, toss potatoes, then return everything to the oven. Roast until chicken is cooked through, skin is golden and potatoes are tender, 15–30 more minutes. 

Place chicken and potatoes on a platter; sprinkle with lemon juice, scatter with feta, dill, salt and pepper and serve.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Why do I need a molcajete to make the best guacamole?

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All you need to know about the Mexican mortar and pestle - your friend for more flavorful dips, dressings and salsas. (Shutterstock)

Guacamole is one of Mexico’s staple dishes and one of the simplest ones to prepare. To make a guacamole burst with flavor, texture, and aroma, you need more than just traditional chopping and fresh ingredients – you need a molcajete, the Mexican mortar and pestle made of volcanic rock.

In this article, you will learn how to buy a molcajete, how to cure it and how to use it to prepare the best guacamole, salsas and beyond.

Used by Mesoamerican civilizations to crush and combine ingredients like spices, chiles and herbs, the molcajete continues to be used for the same purposes and is often even preferred over modern appliances like blenders and food processors. 

Molcajetes are more than just a serving dish for guacamole. Use them to grind herbs or make a marinade. (Wikimedia)

Why? The volcanic rock is said to give the food a unique mineral flavor impossible to achieve with modern cookware. If you’ve ever eaten salsa or guacamole straight out of a molcajete, you know what I’m talking about. 

But beware: to achieve these flavors without risking your health (at the end of the day you’re eating out of a raw rock), you need to know how to buy, use and care for a molcajete. 

Volcanic rock or cement? How to pick a molcajete

Volcanic basalt is traditionally the sole material of the molcajete and its tejolote, or pestle. Due to the molcajete’s growing popularity, identical replicas are now made of cement (mainly in China) to meet demand, fooling the unwary consumer.

To tell the difference, check the molcajete’s color: cement molcajetes tend to have a more grayish color than stone ones, which are darker.

Molcajetes made out of stone (left) are preferred over those made of cement (right). (Cocina Vital MX)

Cement molcajetes are also lighter in weight. A standard-sized molcajete (20–25 cm in diameter) made of volcanic rock weighs between 3.5 to 4 kg, while a cement molcajete of the same size weighs slightly less. 

But the most obvious difference is the texture, as stone molcajetes have a rougher and more porous surface than those made of cement. 

Although modern manufacturing can achieve a finer texture by polishing the rock, a stone molcajete will still feel rough to the touch. And when it hasn’t been cured yet, will small fragments of stone will crumble off when the surface is scraped. (What’s curing? Read on to find out.)

This leads us to the next question.

Where should I buy a molcajete?  

When purchasing a molcajete, make sure to buy from local and artisanal producers instead of supermarkets, particularly the big chain stores, as these tend to sell cement molcajetes rather than authentic stone ones. 

You can find artisanal shops that sell authentic molcajetes anywhere in Mexico.  

Artisanal molcajetes are worth every peso; most are still made by hand. (Shutterstock)

Molcajetes made in Guanajuato are especially sought after. In fact, Forbes recently reported that the price of a molcajete made in Guanajuato can cost anywhere from US $150 to US $300 in places like the United States, Saudi Arabia and Hong Kong. 

If you’re reading this article as an expat in Mexico, lucky you! You get to buy an authentic molcajete in the country for a fraction of that price. But a word of friendly advice: if you’re a foreigner buying directly from artisanal producers in Mexico, don’t bargain with them; they put a lot of effort and passion into making these traditional pieces.  

How to cure my molcajete?

Before using a molcajete for the first time, you’ll need to scrub the debris and sediment that will be inside it. This process is referred to as“curing” the molcajete. 

For many, this is the most daunting process. However, this step is essential to ensuring that the food prepared in the molcajete is safe for your health. The process, however, is easier than what you might think, although a bit time-consuming. 

Some people prefer to cure their molcajete with a mixture of salt and rice, but either ingredient on its own will work. (Screenshot/Jauja Cocina Mexicana)

To start, pour coarse rock salt or white rice — some people mix these ingredients together, but that’s optional — inside the molcajete and grind it with the pestle. As you press down, twist the tejolote to pulverize the ingredients.

When the salt or rice turns gray, remove and add more until it no longer changes color. Afterward, simply rinse the excess powder and listo! The molcajete is ready to use. 

How to care for my molcajete?

The best way to take care of your molcajete is to avoid using soap on it. While you can use a little amount, it’s best to thoroughly rinse it with tap water, as the pores of the molcajete can accumulate small particles of soap and transfer that taste to your food. 

A molcajete is like a cast-iron pan: the flavor of the ingredients you prepare in it becomes infused into its surface and carries over to each recipe. The older the molcajete, the better your food will taste! 

The possibilities are endless with your molcajete. Anything you would typically mix in a food processor can be prepared in a molcajete – for example, pesto, sauces, and chimichurri. (Allan Ronson/Unsplash)

What can I prepare in a molcajete?

Of course, the first thing that comes to mind are salsas and guacamole. But you can also use your molcajete as a grinder to pulverize dry chili peppers or herbs. While the process might be longer than using an electric appliance, the taste will make the time and effort worth it. 

To prepare the best guacamole, pound in your molcajete avocado, chopped tomato (the less, the better, as it makes the guacamole soggy), onion, cilantro, chile jalapeño (if you like it spicy), and lime and salt to taste.

For your typical green or red tomato salsa, try roasting all the ingredients first: onion, tomatoes, garlic and chili. The softened vegetables will make the grinding process in the molcajete easier while enhancing the flavor of the salsa. Don’t forget to add salt to boost the flavor!

When you’re done, use your molcajete as a serving platter for martajada (meaning “made in the molcajete”) salsas to give your table a Mexican touch.

¡Buen provecho!

Gabriela Solis

In memoriam: the life and legacy of a passionate plant lover

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deceased mexican botanist Miguel Chazaro
The man who loved plants: Miguel Cházaro. On April 4, he passed away peacefully at home reading a book.

On April 4, 2023, at the age of 74, Mexican botanist Dr. Miguel de Jesús Cházaro Basañez died peacefully at his home in Veracruz, while reading a book… on plants, of course.

Cházaro loved plants all his life. When, years ago, his university heard that one of the most famous botanists in the world, Dr. Hugh Iltis, was coming to visit Veracruz, they appointed young biology-student Cházaro as his guide out in the field.

deceased mexican botanist Miguel Chazaro
Botanist Miguel Cházaro hiking with a suitcase full of plant specimens. He discovered a love of plants during childhood.

As they were walking along, the story goes, Iltis would say, “I wonder what plant this is?” And Cházaro would tell him the scientific name. 

“And what about that one?” And Cházaro knew the name. 

At the end, it seemed Iltis couldn’t find any plant that Cházaro didn’t already know quite well. As a result, he invited the young student to get his master’s degree at the University of Wisconsin, launching Cházaro’s career.

During that long career, Miguel Cházaro discovered and described 18 previously unknown plant species — 10 of them agaves — and his work was so well respected among his colleagues that eight species are named after him.

Echeveria chazaroi
Echeveria chazaroi is a species of succulent from Oaxaca named after the botanist. This lovely plant changes tones in sync with the seasons of the year.

Estimates say that Cházaro was involved in finding one-third of all the species of cacti that have been discovered since the Spanish arrival in the early 16th century.

One of Cházaro’s most celebrated discoveries is the maguey relisero (Agave valenciana), a gigantic century plant that he found growing in a remote spot near Jalisco’s Mascota River. When the plant is fully mature, it produces a quiote (flower spike) 6 meters tall with clusters of golden blooms loved by nectar-eating bats. 

Cházaro named his discovery after Oscar Valencia, a local plant expert who was completely self-taught. The massive heart of this agave — which is now considered critically endangered — was highly prized by distillers of raicilla, a traditionally made mezcal popular in the western Sierra Madre Occidental.

I met Cházaro in 2007 at the launching of a book on Mexico’s celebrated Piedras Bola located on a hilltop in a remote part of western Jalisco.

Oscar Valencia sitting-in his agave
Oscar Valencia with the Agave valenciana, one of Cházaro’s most celebrated plant discoveries. Cházaro named the plant after Valencia, a civil engineer and self-taught botanist who died in 2020.

During the ceremony, I was seated in the audience, paging through my new copy of the book. 

“I wonder what the altitude is in this picture,” I whispered to the man sitting next to me.

“1,925 meters!” replied the bearded stranger with such authority that I asked him how he knew that.

“Because I wrote that chapter you’re looking at,” he answered.

“What? If you’re an author, why are you sitting down here with us peons?” I asked, “Why aren’t you up there with the other authors?”

“Authors?” Cházaro whispered, “Those aren’t authors; they’re all VIPs.”  

deceased mexican botanist Miguel Chazaro
Cházaro in the field with his portable plant press. Although estimates say he was involved in finding a third of the plants discovered in Mexico since the conquest, he always lived on a tight budget.

And I couldn’t fail to notice that those so-called VIPs never once asked those who actually contributed to the book to take a bow.

Cházaro’s accomplishments are all the more striking because they were carried out under the same hardships that affect most botanists and biologists in Mexico: low salaries and no funding for projects or equipment.

“Miguel made all those discoveries without a car of his own,” his friend (and frequent supplier of transportation) Roy Sánchez told me. “He simply couldn’t afford one. And I know for a fact that his university only allotted him 5,000 pesos a year for field trips — and not a centavo for expenses like gasoline.”

Cházaro, however, had a well-proven technique for finding transportation when he needed it. One day I received a call from him. 

“John, I found a place you’ll love. It’s a delicious, natural hot waterfall located right next to an orchard where juicy mangoes drop right into your hands… and then there’s this unexplored pyramid…”

Of course, I was hooked and so were plenty of hiker friends who wanted to go. 

deceased mexican botanist Miguel Chazaro
Enjoying a natural hot waterfall at the bottom of La Bolsa Canyon in Jalisco. Whenever he could find a water hole, Cházaro would stop to bathe in it.

“Miguel says it’s just outside town,” I told them.

Several hours after our departure for the hot waterfall, we found ourselves standing at the edge of a cliff overlooking part of the Río Verde Canyon, known as La Bolsa. 

The waterfall really was there, but we had to hike 500 meters down to the bottom to enjoy it — giving Professor Cházaro plenty of opportunities to collect the rare plants that grew at different altitudes in the canyon.

Sánchez describes his first meeting with Cházaro as “both memorable and simpático.”

“The Natural Science Association had a field trip planned,” Sánchez told me, “and we were to meet in front of an ice-cream parlor. I was standing there talking with several members of the Association, when a man came walking towards us. 

wild passion flower
This wild passion flower was one of many species the writer encountered with Cházaro during a long hike to the bottom of La Bolsa Canyon.

“This man was wearing a very dirty jacket, his hair was all disheveled and he was carrying what looked like a big shopping bag — a really tattered one, I must say. I figured he was some poor down-and-outer looking for a handout. Since we were all in the middle of a quite interesting conversation, I thought I would just give the poor guy some money so we could keep right on talking.

“Well, I was in the midst of pulling the money out of my pocket when everyone in the group shouted, ‘’¡Hola Miguel! ¿Qué tal, Miguel?’ all at once — and, fortunately, nobody noticed the money in my hand.”

Cházaro then explained to the group that he had arrived home that morning from a long camping trip of a week or so and that when he opened the door, his wife told him about this excursion. 

“Oh, I can just make it!” he told her and turned right around and left. 

“So, you can see,” Sánchez told me, “he wasn’t a person preoccupied with appearances. And I should also mention that he never combed his hair, well almost never. ‘If you comb your hair, it’ll fall out,’ he used to say.”

As for Miguel Cházaro’s character, he was a person who loved to talk to people. If he came to a market, he would end up talking to everybody about the flowers or medicinal plants they were selling, asking them where they picked this or that herb.

deceased mexican botanist Miguel Chazaro
The botanist explaining how belenes (Impatiens balsamina) use spring action (insert) to propel their seeds through the air.

As his colleague, forest engineer Raúl López, put it: “He was not just a great botanist — he was a great human being.”

Want to read more tales of the legendary Miguel Cházaro? Read our stories about the Mexican Maple Forest and the Amazing Singing Geyser.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

‘Los Chapitos’ claim they are ‘scapegoats’ in letter to media

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Sons of ex-cartel boss "El Chapo" criticized the media for assuming that they are running the Sinaloa Cartel, which faces fierce persecution by the DEA for trafficking fentanyl to the United States. (Archive)

Sons of convicted drug trafficker Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán Loera have denied their involvement in the illicit fentanyl business in a rambling four-page letter sent to the Mexican media outlet Milenio.

“We have never produced, manufactured or commercialized fentanyl or any of its derivatives,” the brothers said, contradicting an accusation leveled at them by United States authorities last month.

The letter was addressed to the Milenio program “Azucena a las 10,” hosted by the journalist Azucena Uresti. (Uniradio Informa)

“We are victims of persecution and have been made into scapegoats,” their letter claimed.

José Refugio Rodríguez, a lawyer for “Los Chapitos” — as the sons of Guzmán are colloquially known — confirmed the unsigned letter’s authenticity.

Milenio’s publication of the memo on Thursday came almost three weeks after the United States Department of Justice unsealed drug trafficking and other charges against more than 20 Sinaloa Cartel members and associates, including Ovidio Guzmán López, Jesús Alfredo Guzmán Salazar, Iván Archivaldo Guzmán Sálazar and Joaquín Guzmán López.

United States Deputy Attorney General Lisa O. Monaco said at the time that the “fentanyl crisis” in the United States is “fueled in large part by the Sinaloa Cartel,” while Attorney General Merrick Garland called the cartel “the largest, most violent, and most prolific fentanyl trafficking operation in the world.”

DEA Administrator Anne Milgram has launched a “laser-focused” campaign against the Sinaloa and Jalisco drug cartels, blaming the groups for “the most devastating drug crisis in our nation’s history.” (Shutterstock)

Anne Milgram, administrator of the Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA), said last week that the Sinaloa Cartel and the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG) pose “the greatest criminal threat the United States has ever faced,” and asserted that Los Chapitos “pioneered the manufacture and trafficking of the deadly fentanyl that is flooding our country today and is responsible for countless American deaths.”

Milgram said April 14 that the DEA had “proactively infiltrated the Sinaloa Cartel and the Chapitos network,” over the past 1 1/2 years, obtaining “unprecedented access to the organization’s highest levels” and following them “across the world.”

Ovidio, who is fighting extradition to the United States, was detained in January, while brothers Jesús, Iván and Joaquín are at large.

El Chapo, who is serving a life sentence in a United States prison after being convicted on drug trafficking, conspiracy to murder and other charges in 2019, reportedly has 10 sons. It was unclear how many of them were responsible for the letter.

El Chapo Guzman
Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán in U.S. custody in 2017 after he was extradited to the United States to face trial there. (Department of Homeland Security)

Los Chapitos said that the purpose of their letter, which was addressed to the production team of a Milenio Televisión program, was to “clarify several points.”

They asserted that they are not the “head” of the Sinaloa Cartel and are not interested in leading the criminal organization. They also claimed that small and large “independent” cells of the cartel use their name or that of their father while carrying out illicit activities.

“For example, to work with complete impunity, [the cells] make their suppliers and customers think that they are our partners or intermediaries in order to negotiate better,” the brothers said.

When they have problems with authorities, the letter continued, “they involve us to obtain benefits,” even though they have nothing to back up their claim that they are associates of Los Chapitos.

The brothers also railed against musicians and companies for using their name or that of their father for their own financial gain in songs known as narcocorridos or on products such as clothing and beverages.

“Media outlets regularly publish stories with our name in the headline, or even on front pages, just to sell newspapers or get clicks … on their web pages,” they added.

The letter also asserted that Iván Guzmán Salazar never said that Los Chapitos would “flood” the streets of the United States with fentanyl and rejected accusations they had fed people to tigers or killed adversaries with baseball bats.

“We don’t have nor have we had tigers. Easy and simple to investigate,” the brothers wrote.

Navy Minister José Rafael Ojeda Durán has insisted that Mexico “is not a producer of fentanyl,” and that the drug arrives in Mexico from Chinese suppliers. (lopezobrador.org.mx)

“… The use of our name by other people to get rid of problems, avoid problems or solve problems is becoming a real danger for us,” they said toward the end of the letter.

“If they are caught, whoever they are, [they should] face up to their own situation without involving us. … We will always look out for our own safety and that of our family. We didn’t choose to be where we are. No one can choose their birthplace. We would have liked to have chosen a different life with a good education … [but] that was denied at the time due to the hunt for our father,” Los Chapitos said.

They claimed that no judge will treat them fairly due to the fear of persecution, and challenged the media and authorities to “thoroughly investigate the issue of fentanyl” in Sinaloa and Mexico.

“Who produces it? Where are the ingredients obtained? How does it get to the United States? We are certain that any impartial investigation will reach the same conclusion. The sons of Joaquín Guzmán Loera … have never produced, manufactured or commercialized fentanyl…”

The DEA is offering up to US $10 million each for information leading to the arrest and/or conviction of Jesús Alfredo Guzmán Salazár and Iván Archivaldo Guzmán Salazár, the alleged sons of ex-cartel boss Joaquín (“El Chapo”) Guzmán. (Twitter)

The case against Los Chapitos comes as Mexico and the United States ramp up cooperation to combat fentanyl.

The two countries committed in Washington last month to “continue joint work to dismantle the fentanyl supply chain and the Sinaloa Cartel and the Jalisco New Generation Cartel on both sides of the border.” Mexican and U.S. officials also met at the U.S.-Mexico Synthetic Drug Conference in Mexico City in late March.

The Los Angeles Times reported that the letter sent to Milenio by Los Chapitos was probably “an effort to drum up some public sympathy south of the border as U.S. authorities increasingly press their Mexican counterparts to take down the three fugitive brothers.”

Mike Vigil, the DEA’s former head of international operations, told the Times that he firmly believes the Los Chapitos “are feeling the pressure.”

In disseminating a letter, “they are probably trying to gain some public support from politicians who may want to extradite them,” he said.

President López Obrador told reporters Thursday that he was aware of the letter but declined to comment on it. He said last month that he did not expect the extradition of Ovidio Guzmán to happen quickly.

“He resorted to the argument or the excuse … that he who was detained wasn’t him, that he wasn’t … Ovidio,” López Obrador said, referring to a bizarre claim made at an extradition hearing in March. “… It has to be proven that [the person detained] is Ovidio, so it takes time.”

With reports from Milenio and The Los Angeles Times 

Tourism organization says medical tourism sector is evading taxes

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Nogales, Mexico
Dental care is expensive in the United States, pushing many to seek more affordable care in Mexico, particularly in border towns like Nogales, Sonora. (Shutterstock)

Providers of services to medical tourists are evading taxes to the tune of US $500 million a year, according to the president of a tourism-oriented umbrella organization.

Jorge Hernández, president of the Mexican Federation of Tourism Associations (Fematur), told the newspaper Milenio that medical tourism is increasing, and so too is the evasion of taxes by professionals who provide services to foreigners who travel to Mexico to undergo treatment.

Dentist talks to patient
Many U.S. citizens come to Mexico for cheaper, quality dental care. (Caroline LMUnsplash)

Health care providers such as dentists and plastic surgeons avoid paying taxes to the federal tax agency SAT by not issuing formal invoices known as facturas to medical tourists, he said. Many only issue basic receipts, said Hernández, who didn’t explain how he arrived at the US $500 million figure.

Not paying tax on income received from medical tourists allows health care providers to keep prices low.

Hernández said that authorities need to find a way to “oblige” medical professionals to issue formal invoices to all their patients. As a result of their tax evasion, it is impossible to accurately calculate how much Mexico’s medical tourism industry is worth, the Fematur chief said.

According to Patients Beyond Borders, which describes itself as the “most trusted resource in medical tourism,” the price of most major procedures performed on medical tourists in Mexico is between 40% and 60% lower than in the United States.

New City Medical Tijuana
A growing number of modern healthcare facilites, like New City Medical Plaza in Tijuana, are seeking to attract higher-end medical tourism. (NewCity Medical Plaza/Facebook)

Hernández said that the primary treatments sought by medical tourists are cosmetic, followed by dental, and that the quality of the care patients receive here is on a par with – or even better – than that on offer in the United States.

According to the state-owned National Exterior Commerce Bank (Bancomext), the industry had revenue of just over US $5 billion in 2017. Professional services firm Deloitte has cited a significantly higher figure of US $8.8 billion.

Josef Woodman, the CEO of Patients Beyond Borders, estimates that about 1.2 million Americans per year come to Mexico for medical treatment. Border cities are particularly popular with medical tourists, but foreigners also travel to places such as Mexico City and Cancún to find the affordable treatment they are looking for.

With reports from Milenio and CNN