SPONSORED CONTENT I first arrived to Querétaro, Mexico, in 1990 from London, England. Though Querétaro is now one of the fastest-growing and modern cities in the country, at the time it was still a quite a small state capital. I initially worked in some other schools, but after a few years, and on the recommendation of some friends, I applied for a job at the local American school, John. F. Kennedy, and was hired to teach Ecology and Geography in the high school section.
From the beginning, I could tell something was different about this place. While I’d found other private schools I taught at in the area to focus extensively on earnings and customer-satisfaction, JFK kept its focus squarely on the children: their learning and development were clearly the most important outcomes.
My colleagues’ enthusiasm for building a strong school full of happy children was clear, and I was delighted to have been accepted as part of the team. At JFK, I found the perfect balance between the ability to use my creativity in the classroom and a well-balanced, structured curriculum. While permitting teachers to “do their own thing” in the classroom always seems like a good idea and is quite popular, without a solid framework based on researched best practices, the enthusiasm and popularity of it doesn’t usually result in great academic improvement.
JFK had clearly struck the right balance, and the success of many of our students – among them, doctors, engineers, scientists, artists, athletes, politicians, architects, and many other professionals – is a testament to our success as educators.
At JFK, I grew professionally and was honored to be a part of a community that truly cared about education. I also got to work on a beautiful open and green campus with well-behaved, respectful students and a supportive staff. The community was both supportive and international with a good mix of staff and students from both the Americas as well as other countries around the world. Our cultural differences enriched us, and I have been enjoying that companionship ever since.
That was 22 years ago, and I’ve never looked back. Now the director, I am prouder and more enthusiastic than ever about the quality of our school. JFK has grown significantly since then and is now one of the most prestigious K-12 schools in the country.
What makes JFK so special? We are an IB (International Baccalaureate) School that provides high-quality instruction from K1 to Grade 12. We are also fully bilingual and truly international (24% of our students are from outside of Mexico), well–known among schools in Mexico as the best of the best. We are dedicated to helping newly-arrived international students with special programs like “School Within a School” that help them to quickly reach the levels of English and Spanish as their peers.
To accomplish all of this, we have a unique mix of local and foreign teachers, exposing students to a myriad of ideas and ways of seeing the world and their place in it. We challenge our staff to truly the embody the adage to think global and act locally to make a positive impact on our students and our communities.
That’s the reason foreign teachers – like me – have always had a special place at JFK. As the school has grown, so has our international teaching staff. To ensure that we are able to continue attracting the best teachers, we offer housing and utilities, a travel allowance, worldwide health and life insurance, immigration, and professional development and support in addition to their regular full-time salaries.
Generations of teachers have now taught at JFK while exploring Querétaro, a fascinating combination of Mexican tradition and modern city in which you can walk in the colonial downtown to witness centuries-old traditions and nightly cumbias before taking an Uber to pop into Costco, as well as its surroundings.
Among those surroundings are San Miguel de Allende with its American Expat community, artisans and great restaurants, Tequisquiapan with its local crafts and leisurely strolls, and Bernal with its 3rd largest granite monolith in the world. México City, south of Querétaro, offers a quite long list of shopping, museums, art exhibitions, and theatre productions. To the north is the Sierra Gorda, a magical mountain range that starts in Texas and ends in southern Mexico and offers unique camping spots, beautiful lakes, and breathtaking waterfalls.
Some teachers have fallen so much in love that they’ve become locals themselves (like me!), sending their children to our school to give them the opportunity to discover and achieve the extraordinary through a world-class international education.
The mission of our school? To lead, serve and create beauty. If you would like to do us the honor of helping to carry that mission out, we would love to hear from you; please contact Dulce Rojas at [email protected].
Adrian Leece is general director of John F. Kennedy, the American School of Quéretaro.
Breakfast has become a “thing” here in Mazatlán’s historic center.
Whereas just a few years ago, there were maybe a handful of places to go for desayuno, now there are many, many more: the other day I counted 30 within walking distance of my apartment.
Since I’m one of those people who likes — i.e., loves — to go out for breakfast, I’m reveling in this abundance. Whether I want a hearty taco or omelet de camarón (shrimp omelet), classic chilaquiles or apple-cinnamon crepes, a full English breakfast or just bacon and eggs, all can be easily and affordably found.
Mazatlán’s centro historico is a busy combination of bustling city offices, shops and businesses, the big Mercado Pino Suárez, the Catedral Basílica, a handful of plazas and parks and Olas Altas, an oceanfront neighborhood bookended by two hills. Somehow, it’s noisy and peaceful and beautiful all at the same time.
The Plaza Machado — arguably the most charming of the plazas — is surrounded by restaurants and cafés, and the streets radiating out in every direction have filled with all sorts of charming eateries, many in restored colonial houses. If you’re visiting, start there and wander till you find a place that strikes your fancy.
A barista carefully pours a customer’s beverage at the modernist Cafferium.
A few tips: weekends, especially Sunday mornings, can be crowded. Best to go on a non-holiday weekday if you can or ask if they take reservations. Also, restaurants (particularly since COVID) are notorious for sudden changes of hours and days of operation. To avoid disappointment, always check in person or by phone. Facebook pages and websites can’t always be counted on to have current information.
Everyone has their own druthers, and my favorites may not be yours. Not to worry! There are so many breakfast options in Mazatlan’s center, you’ll surely be able to satisfy whatever your cravings are.
Here are a handful of the places I frequent the most, a few category winners and a list of what’s around. As we say in Mexico: provecho!
Via Condotti, named after Rome’s most busy, fashionable street, is a satellite of the super-popular Hector’s Bistro next door. European-style breakfasts include the chef’s house-baked breads, bagels and pastries while traditional Mexican dishes include classics like enmoladas — chicken-filled enchiladas bathed in a spicy mole sauce. The coffee alone brings me back, day after day, and even a lowly bowl of oatmeal is somehow decadent here.
Allegro has been my go-to favorite for years: consistently delicious and well-made food, reasonable prices, attentive waitstaff and really good coffee. Standouts: Eggs Benedict (traditional or vegetarian), apple pie and the Gringo Waffle. They also serve half-orders of some menu items, a boon for small eaters like me.
Minchopi / Taquiza del Cheff / La Chilanga: want tacos for breakfast? Maybe a tlayuda, gordita or quesobirria? Head to any of these three eateries and settle in for a good meal. A little off the beaten path, they’re worth finding.
One of the joys of Mazatlán being a port city is breakfasting with a view like this.
La Chilanga has the biggest menu, with a smorgasbord of regional dishes. Taquiza del Cheff woos with handmade corn tortillas and a dozen or more taco fillings (including some vegetarian ones). Minchopi’s tacos (Wednesdays offers 3 for 2 prices) and chilaquiles will keep you coming back for more. All get big props for consistency in ingredients, spotless kitchen and dining areas and more-than-reasonable prices. Tip: you might want to bring your own coffee unless you’re OK with Nescafé.
Casa Hindie Mazatlán, a relative newcomer, is a tea house by name but in reality so much more. Yes, there are umpteen types of unusual, imported teas and accoutrements, but breakfasts — served all day — are wonderful here (as is the coffee). A nice menu of breakfast classics offers some surprises too: matcha drinks, nonalcoholic tea cocktails, chai pancakes and avocado toast. My favorite is the huevos a lacazuela, two eggs atop refried beans, bacon and crispy tortilla strips, swimming in a warm guajillo sauce that’s so irresistible, I’m always tempted to lick the bowl.
La Marea, perched on the top of Lookout Hill, overlooking Centro, Stone Island and the glittering Pacific, offers elegant dining with to-die-for views. While you don’t have to dress up, you do need more than your swimsuit. French toast, egg dishes and traditional Mexican favorites, plus espresso drinks and a full bar (ahem) when a little hair o’ the dog is what’s needed.
On any given morning, the Plaza Machado — the center’s main square — is quiet and peaceful. Palm trees sway in the breeze, and the only sound is the shush-shush of sweepers cleaning the cobblestones from the revelry of the night before.
Raices de Mar, tucked under a tree in the center of the shady Machado, is a lovely place to sit. It offers a big, well-executed menu of regional dishes that includes barbacoa, shrimp tlayudas and smoked marlin tacos. The beautifully restored building is also a small boutique hotel.
Finally, in addition to the above, some recommendations for specific cravings:
European- and Mexican-style breakfasts, plus a full line of artisan breads make Via Condotti hard to resist.
Great coffee: Via Condotti, Rico’s, Looney Bean, La Olivia, Allegro, Casa Hindie
Authentic Mexican traditional: La Chilanga, La Fonda Chalio, Totem, Taquiza del Cheff, Casa Mayora, Minchopi, Panamá
Unique menu offerings: La Olivia, Casa Hindie, La Antigua (crepes, crepes, crepes), La Chilanga, Euro Bakery (THE BEST croissants), Totem
Ambiance: Raíces (Plaza Machado), Totem (rooftop), Casa Hindie (minimalist elegance), La Olivia (Old World elegance), Esinti (rooftop), La Marea (ocean views), Casa Lucilla (almost oceanfront), Cafferium (modernist)
Those are just the highlights. In alphabetical order, here’s a more complete list of options for breakfast in Mazatlán’s historic center:
Recent increases in the cost of building materials have caused problems for construction project budgets and affected the recovery of the sector in at least one state.
According to the vice president of the Mexican Chamber of the Construction Industry (CMIC), the cost of building materials such as cement, rebar and steel has increased by 15% to 25% since December.
Quel Galván Pelayo said that budgets formulated last year will be too low in many cases given the increases. That could leave some public and private sector projects short of the resources they need for completion, he said.
“If you drew up a plan without taking the increase into account, you’re going to take a hit this year,” Galván said.
He warned that the war in Ukraine could causes the cost of materials such as steel and rebar to increase even further.
CMIC Tijuana president Jesús Octavio Ruiz Vargas asserted that the cost of materials – up by 17.4% annually in December, according to national statistics agency INEGI – has increased by as much as 100% over the past year.
He told the news website Uniradio Informa that steel had doubled in price over the past 12 months, concrete had risen 40% and wood had increased by 20%. Ruiz also said that the cost of labor had gone up by 20%.
Despite the increased costs, construction in Tijuana hasn’t slowed, he said.
“Medical tourism projects haven’t stopped, vertical housing projects haven’t stopped, … industrial developments and commercial developments haven’t stopped. There is still demand in Tijuana despite the increase in construction prices,” Ruiz said.
It’s a different story in Puebla, where the recovery of the construction sector from the pandemic-induced downturn has stalled due to the increase in the cost of building materials, according to CMIC Puebla president Héctor Alberto Sánchez Morales.
He said the war between Russia and Ukraine has affected both the availability and cost of materials such as steel, aluminum, paint, glass and cement.
Sánchez said there had been “a little bit of activity” and “a little bit of growth” in the construction sector but the increase in the cost of materials ended the recovery in the first quarter of this year.
The price of many other products has increased in Mexico as higher global demand for goods, ongoing supply chain disruptions, and the war in Ukraine, fuel inflation. Mexico’s annual inflation rate was 7.72% in early April, a 20-year high well above the central bank’s target of 3% give or take a percentage point.
A woman votes near an INE placard. The autonomous body, which regulates Mexico's electoral process at all levels, would be dissolved under a proposed reform bill.
President López Obrador is proposing a sweeping overhaul of the country’s election apparatus, in a move that analysts said would damage democracy and hand his party greater control of the voting system.
The proposed constitutional reform bill, which will be sent to Congress on Thursday, would dissolve the country’s National Electoral Institute (INE), which oversees the conduct of elections. If the bill is passed, INE would be replaced by a less-well-funded, directly elected body.
The president also wants to cut public funding to political parties and loosen electoral propaganda rules, in moves that critics said would be likely to benefit his Morena party. Since he was elected in 2018, López Obrador’s critics have feared he would move to try to stay in office beyond the one-term, six-year limit or concentrate power, although the highly popular president has said he will step aside in 2024.
“It’s seeking to ensure that he does not have to pass on the presidential sash to an opposition president,” said Arturo Sarukhán, a former Mexican ambassador to the United States.
The president said he wants an “authentic, true democracy in the country and to end electoral fraud,” but critics say the bill would favor his party.
Analysts believe the reform, which also slashes the number of federal and local lawmakers, is unlikely to be approved in its current form but is a signal of what the president could try to achieve through other means, such as budgets, appointments and secondary legislation.
The president’s party and its coalition partners have majorities in both houses of Congress, and Morena is on track to hold more than half of regional governorships by the end of the year.
“There is no intention to impose a single party. What we want is for there to be an authentic, true democracy in the country and to end electoral fraud,” López Obrador said on Thursday.
Mexico had one-party rule for more than 70 years before the opposition National Action Party (PAN) won in 2000. The INE’s credibility has taken decades to build, and it is now one of the most trusted institutions in the country, according to the national statistics agency INEGI.
In presenting the reform to the media, the government claimed it would create more than $1 billion in savings that could be spent on social programs and infrastructure. Under the proposal, INE would be replaced by the National Institute of Elections and Consultations (INEC). Board members and electoral tribunal magistrates would be chosen by popular vote.
Mexico’s opposition has said that the president’s preference for direct democracy, including a recent recall referendum on his position, benefits the incumbent and allows him to reinforce his will through low turnout votes. The bill comes at a tense moment in Mexican politics, a week after lawmakers rejected a controversial energy reform proposal that worried the private sector and the U.S. government.
The National Electoral Institute is one of the country’s most trusted institutions, according to the national statistics agency INEGI.
Morena has threatened criminal complaints against opposition deputies who voted it down.
Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2022. All rights reserved.
Prosecutor Boy and Canirac's González sign the noise pact.
Some 3,000 Mexico City restaurants affiliated with the national restaurant association Canirac have made a formal commitment to not exceed permitted noise levels.
Canirac president Germán González entered into an agreement with the Mexico City government on his organization’s behalf on Wednesday.
The pact, signed by González and Mexico City Environment and Zoning Prosecutor Mariana Boy on International Noise Awareness Day, commits restaurants to keeping sound system levels below 65 decibels between 6:00 a.m. and 8:00 p.m. and below 62 decibels during other hours.
The agreement also committed restaurant owners to ensuring that their establishments are soundproofed to mitigate their impact on the areas around them. The Mexico City government will distribute a “guide to good acoustic practices” to advise proprietors on reducing the noise pollution their restaurants generate.
“This collaboration agreement we’re signing today confirms our full interest and commitment to promoting healthy coexistence [based on] mutual respect,” González said.
“Our responsibility to citizens, customers and neighbors is to comply with what the law establishes. It’s not optional, it’s an obligation,” he said.
The Canirac chief said that a campaign reminding restaurants of their commitment will be launched under the slogan and hashtag #YaBájaleyCumple, which advises proprietors to reduce noise in order to comply with the law.
Restaurants that fail to comply face initial fines of up to 3,848 pesos (US $188). Repeat offenders face the possibility of being slapped with a much larger fine and also run the risk of being shut down by authorities.
Boy said that 14 restaurants have been closed due to repeated noise violations since 2019, including six this year.
Mexico City is the eighth noisiest city in the world, according to a 2017 study cited in the guide to be issued to restaurants. Noise complaints are very common in the capital, and restaurants are among the most complained about establishments.
México state prosecutors shared this image of the alleged dog butchers on Twitter, asking the public to come forward if they have information relevant to the case.
Two México state men who allegedly slaughtered dogs and sold their meat to taco restaurants will face trial on animal abuse charges.
Jorge N. and Julio César N. were arrested last week at a house in Tultitlán where some 60 dogs were being held. According to neighbors, the men, both aged in their early 60s, made a living by killing dogs and selling their meat to taquerías.
Activists from the animal protection association Mundo Patitas said they followed one of the men to a taquería outside the Tacuba Metro station in Mexico City and saw him hand over a package that allegedly contained dog meat.
Mundo Patitas president Norma Huerta said the men stole dogs or rounded them up on the street. There is evidence that they slaughtered dogs, skinned them, carved them up and supplied the meat to taquerías, she told the newspaper El Universal.
Residents of the Mariano Escobedo neighborhood called police after foul smells emanating from the house became unbearable. There were bones of slaughtered dogs, including skulls, in the yard of the home as well as skins stored in buckets, blood on the ground and a butcher’s block.
One of the dogs rescued from the Tultitlán house receives medical attention.
Neighbors filmed videos of the grisly and malodorous evidence, El Universal reported. The newspaper said the men – who had apparently been slaughtering dogs for years – were frequently seen wearing butcher’s aprons but told neighbors they repaired religious objects for a living.
A México state judge on Wednesday ordered them to face trial on animal abuse charges, but they were not remanded in custody because the crime of which they are accused is not classified as serious. They will have to report periodically to authorities before their trial begins in a month.
As fighting between cartels got worse in Coalcomán, Michoacán, last year, hundreds of families left the area, some traveling on foot with just what they could carry.
In addition to cartel warfare, gender violence is a major cause of forced migration from Michoacán, according to the state governor.
Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla said Tuesday that 70% of people who have recently fled Michoacán for Tijuana, Baja California, did so due to gender violence-related reasons.
“Not all forced migration is due to organized crime. The raw data we have confirmed … is that 70% of forced migration from Michoacán to that border point is due to gender violence,” he told a migration forum in the state capital Morelia.
Ramírez said the data was obtained via visits to displaced michoacanos in Tijuana. Teams of specialists from the DIF family services agency and government ministries have visited the northern border city to speak to displaced people, he said.
Many michoacanos fleeing their home state head to Tijuana because they hope to seek asylum in the United States or enter that country illegally.
Gregorio López, an Apatzingán-based priest and founder of a civil society organization that operates shelters for displaced people, said late last year that more than 22,000 people had fled violence in Michoacán since President López Obrador took office in late 2018 and approximately half had entered the United States.
One Michoacán woman currently living on the northern border after fleeing the Tierra Caliente municipality of Coalcomán is Brianda Valencia. She rejected Ramírez’s claim that 70% of displaced people in Tijuana left Michoacán for gender-violence related reasons, asserting that organized crime groups are mainly responsible for driving people out of the state.
Valencia told the newspaper El Universal that she fled Coalcomán along with her husband, children, siblings and parents after armed members of a criminal group came to their home and threatened to kill them.
She said that dozens of other families from various municipalities left Michoacán for similar reasons because rival cartels are at war in their towns.
Brenda Fraga, Michoacán’s minister for migrants, acknowledged that there are a range of factors that cause forced displacement, including climate, conflict and, more recently, reasons related to the coronavirus pandemic.
Over the past seven years, migration from Michoacán to other parts of the country has increased significantly due to an absence of public policies in areas such as security, education, housing and employment as well as corruption, impunity and difficulties obtaining access to justice, she added.
The baby entered the world on an Aeroméxico flight, mid-way between Mexico City and Ciudad Juárez. (File photo)
President López Obrador revealed Wednesday that he had asked Aeroméxico to increase the number of flights it operates from the new Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) and extended the same invitation to VivaAerobús and Volaris.
He told reporters at his regular news conference that he spoke to Aeroméxico president Eduardo Tricio on Tuesday and enlisted his help on the matter.
“He told me they had already added one [flight] to [Puerto] Vallarta and that they had one to Villahermosa … but there weren’t a lot of passengers in the case of Villahermosa,” López Obrador said.
“I told him it’s because that flight leaves very early. The return flight – I also have my information – does bring enough passengers,” he claimed, adding that the Aeroméxico flight to Mérida is doing very well.
Data from the Federal Civil Aviation Agency doesn’t back up his claim about the flight from Villahermosa to the AIFA. It shows that an average of just 20 people per flight have flown on the AIFA-Villahermosa route, with average numbers slightly above that figure on flights to the Tabasco capital and slightly lower on services to the new facility.
López Obrador spoke about his conversation with Aeroméxico president Eduardo Tricio at a press conference Wednesday morning.
Aeroméxico consequently announced it would reduce the frequency of the flight, which began as a daily service when the AIFA opened just over a month ago.
López Obrador revealed that his motivation for asking Aeroméxico to add more flights was – at least in part – to ward off criticism about the low number of services to and from the airport, a project he chose to pursue after canceling the previous government’s larger, more expensive Mexico City airport project, which was under construction in Texcoco, México state.
“I asked him to increase [flights], to help us, so [people] are not questioning and attacking [us],” he said.
“Besides, it’s a good airport, it [represents] the effort of a lot of people, it’s the image of our country so I have to look after it – it’s part of my job,” López Obrador said.
He then called on VivaAerobús and Volaris – each of which is currently operating services from the AIFA to two domestic destinations – to add additional flights because the Mexico City International Airport (AICM) “is already full.”
López Obrador said he stressed to Tricio that the longer travel time to the AIFA from central Mexico City – a journey of some 50 kilometers – is offset by faster check-in times. He also highlighted that new highway infrastructure and a rail link will reduce travel time to the new airport once they have been completed, something which is expected to occur in 2023.
“We’re going to ensure that more airlines arrive, that there are more flights,” to and from the AIFA, the president pledged, adding that the government is also pushing for more flights out of the Toluca airport, which hasn’t received any commercial passenger flights for over nine months.
“With these three airports we already have the infrastructure that is needed” to meet demand for air travel in the greater Mexico City metropolitan area, López Obrador said, referring to the AIFA, the AICM and Toluca.
“A problem we inherited is already solved. … The Texcoco airport thing was a challenge … [but] we relieved ourselves of that burden and now it’s a matter of adjusting things to move forward,” he said.
In December 2006, Michoacán became ground zero for the latest round of the war on drugs in Mexico. The president at the time, Felipe Calderón, sent thousands of troops to this state in central Mexico, bordering the Pacific coast, and promised swift victory. But the offensive soon started to falter, inflaming a conflict that has only grown more intractable under each of Calderón’s successors.
Fifteen years ago, one group dominated the landscape of illegal armed groups in the state. Today, at least 14 illegal armed outfits have carved up power, political sway and territories among them, each one digging in too deep for its competitors to oust it completely. The result has been a state of perpetual low-intensity armed violence. A viable strategy to reduce this violence has yet to be found. Last year alone, more than 2,700 died in the bloodshed. And civilians increasingly find themselves the victims of volatile front lines, with thousands displaced in 2021.
Crisis Group’s Mexico analyst Falko Ernst has been documenting the changing face of Michoacán’s conflict for the past decade. In November 2021, he returned to Michoacan’s Tierra Caliente region, the heartland of organized crime in the state, to catch up with old acquaintances and spend time with new ones. Civilians, activists, police, government officials and members of three different illegal armed groups talked with him about their everyday lives and their expectations for the future.
War has changed
Tight enough to provide security but sufficiently loose to preclude eavesdropping, a circle of 20 men has been set up around us. Plastic chairs and, uncharacteristically, camomile tea have been laid out for our conversation on this chilly, dimly lit village plaza in late November 2021.
A state police officer stays on alert while riding in a patrol car. falko ernst
“War has changed,” said Pelón, the head of one of Michoacán’s illegal armed groups, whom I met that night. Barely 30 years old, he sported custom-made baseball caps and hoodies, in contrast with the more sober apparel of many of his counterparts. He pointed to his foot soldiers, dark silhouettes holding Kalashnikovs. The AKs, he said, are still standard-issue. But recent years have seen a veritable arms race, he went on.
“Technology has become central to all this,” he said, describing how Google satellite imagery has strengthened his grasp of the terrain of battle and allowed him to know his troops’ location at every turn. But the real push for innovation, he said, had been forced upon him and his local allies from outside.
Their collective enemy is the Jalisco Cartel New Generation, a criminal conglomerate that has forged an aggressive multi-front campaign for national dominance by aiming to outspend and steamroll local opposition. At first, it gained the upper hand over smaller rivals in Michoacán.
“No matter how many we killed, how many weapons we took, how many vehicles we destroyed, they always kept coming back with more… and at first they were getting the better of us.”
The Jalisco Cartel also took advantage of superior technology, including its so-called “monsters,” increasingly sophisticated homemade tanks built to resist high-caliber gunfire – as well as C4 explosive-equipped drones. But, Pélon said, getting their hands on both these machines and reverse-engineering them has enabled them to draw even.
He said that each local group now had dedicated tank welders as well as drone builders and pilots on its payroll; like their enemy, they have learned to assemble makeshift land mines, the latest means of deterring hostile intruders.
A sicario riding in an armored SUV keeps his AK-47 ready. falko ernst
“We’re at the same level now,” Pelón said, joining together his right- and left-hand fingertips to make the point.
A costly gridlock
The gridlocked conflict has brought a war of attrition to Michoacán. Bearing the brunt have been villages situated on the shifting front lines. According to Gregorio López, a Catholic activist who has been organizing humanitarian aid for those staying put while also backing the claims of those seeking asylum in the United States, more than 30,000 fled their homes in 2021 alone (the Michoacán state governor has claimed the number is 90% lower).
One of the main causes of displacement is the suspicion among armed groups that locals left behind could be passing information on to enemies. “They came to my home,” said one man whose village was seized by the Jalisco Cartel following weeks of shootouts, “and demanded to check our phones.”
When the gunmen spotted seemingly compromising messages on his daughter’s WhatsApp — merely a statement of fact that “the Jaliscos” had mounted barricades around the town — they immediately issued an eviction order. “They gave [the daughter and her husband] two hours to pack up their things — or else,” he said in the matter-of-fact tone of someone long used to accepting the rules essential to survival in the Tierra Caliente.
The man also abandoned his home soon after, loading what he could onto his pickup truck to resettle in another village 10 kilometers away — far enough to avoid the front line. What prompted him to leave, he said, was not so much the fear of being caught up in the cleanup operations of the armed group, including executions of those suspected of being loyal to the United Cartels, an alliance of Michoacán-based groups fighting the Jalisco Cartel. It was his livelihood being undercut by new borders being drawn in the sand.
In Apatzingán in November, a local man and his son take a late evening stroll outside a village held by the Knights Templar. falko ernst
Strategic preferences
Pelón claims these displacements have been a strategic blessing to him and his allies. “The truth is, all this has done us a big favor,” he said, explaining how sustained media coverage of the human costs of Michoacán’s conflict had forced the hand of the federal government. Since assuming office in late 2018, the government has asserted that Mexico is on track for better days. To protect this narrative, in late 2021, the government increased the number of troops deployed to Michoacán to 17,000. This followed a familiar pattern of state security responses being prompted by backlash in public opinion.
But for Pelón this has meant reinforcements, rather than enemies. While visiting the state, I spoke to commanders and fighters from three different illegal armed groups. They differed about the degree to which soldiers and their non-state armed outfits from Michoacán had teamed up. Some spoke of full integration in battle. Others of merely coordinated efforts. But all agreed that a common front existed, with the shared goal of pushing back the Jalisco Cartel.
Armed hostilities between the two sides have lately been concentrated along a front line within Michoacán that runs parallel to the border with the neighboring state of Jalisco to the north. Farther inland, however, the federal government’s alleged strategic affinities with certain outfits — which the government dismisses, having officially declared corruption and collusion a thing of the past — have afforded many of Michoacán’s armed groups a calm not seen in years. They have been allowed to regroup and strengthen their grasp over their home territories.
“They [the military] haven’t messed with us here for months,” said one Knights Templar commander as he and his crew were enjoying drinks and pork stew at a religious celebration in a remote Tierra Caliente village, live ranchera music blasting away in the background.
In the years that followed, internecine fighting between these splinters ensured the state suffered continuing bloodshed. But for now, if only briefly, this internal war has been largely put on ice, with the shared outside threat posed by the Jalisco Cartel once again causing a coalition of local armed outfits to assemble.
A resident in a rehabilitation center in a Tierra Caliente town carries out his cleaning duties. falko ernst
But in my conversations with members of these groups, none expressed any illusion that the pact was born out of anything but necessity — or harbored a shred of hope that it would survive were the Jalisco Cartel’s offensive to vanish. “There are things that can’t be forgiven … or overcome,” said the Knights Templar commander.
To illustrate his point, he explained how the new alliance meant he was now putting on a show of mutual respect with a former arch-enemy, the same person who had killed scores of his “boys” in ambushes and taken his family member hostage. Lingering grief, personal vendettas and the thirst for expansion could conceivably be kept in check by an authority able to impose rules and cement spheres of influence. Yet with power evenly distributed among too many groups, no such order currently seems feasible. Nor did anyone appear willing to return to centralized leadership.
Arlo, the second-in-command of an armed outfit aligned with neither the Jalisco Cartel nor the United Cartels, spoke of tentative attempts by the federal government to pacify Michoacán. “A general came down from Mexico City to see me,” he said as we munched on tacos in the communal kitchen of a village controlled by his group.
What the federal envoy brought with him was not so much a concrete plan but a query as to whether Arlo would be willing to sit down and talk peace with his opponents. Just as others would say when I asked the same question, his answer was that he would.
“All we demand,” he said, “is that our borders be respected … and that we all stick to our own areas.” However, he quickly added, a negotiated settlement along these lines, for now, appears impossible.
The armed groups’ subsistence hinges on their ability to extract rents from the Michoacán economy’s four principal cash cows, chiefly through protection rackets. “The truth is,” he said, “that everybody wants in on the avocados, the lime, the port [of Lázaro Cárdenas, key for importing illicit substances] and the [iron ore] mines. Those cut off will continue pushing. They just have to.”
A watchful state police officer at a fortified structure meant to fend off incursions. This one bears the marks of a recent attack. falko ernst
Border skirmishes
“Make it quick, they’re shooting here,” Arlo shouted after me as I made my way from his car to talk to state police. Here, at the outer fringes of his group’s territory, the dividing line between state and non-state forces appeared to have collapsed.
To the observer, but for the uniforms, one was indistinguishable from the other, and police officers were in effect guarding Arlo’s territory against the incursions of a hostile armed outfit.Border skirmishes
Despite his wry sense of humor, forged during three decades in the thick of conflict, it was clear on this occasion that he was not in jest: there were walls riddled with bullet holes. Three weeks prior to my visit, Arlo’s band had taken a bite out of an enemy group’s territory. Right after the fighting stopped, they brought in construction workers to erect a fortín, a delta-shaped fortification with 6-meter-high walls promising protection against any backlash.
It proved a sound investment. Two weeks later, contras, or enemy combatants, opened fire from amid the surrounding hills’ lush vegetation.
“In one of these attacks, they’ll take down five of yours before you even figure out where it’s coming from,” explained the ranking officer on site. That time, however, all they caused was damage to the installations.
A fighter stands before a shrine for Saint Judas. falko ernst
Domestic and international media have extensively covered the violent spectacle along the relatively accessible, clear-cut front line dividing the Jalisco Cartel from the United Cartels along the Jalisco state border, 60 km away. But everyday hinterland skirmishes such as this one all but escape the limelight, even though they are intimations of the shape tit-for-tat hostilities among Michoacán-based groups are set to take once the outside threat of the Jalisco Cartel wanes and internecine fighting resumes.
The fact that they remain largely invisible is at least in part by design, as armed groups may look to avoid the type of public scrutiny that can upend arrangements between state and non-state groups.
Divisions between state and non-state groups are often wafer-thin in Mexico. Striking understandings with police and military can, for the likes of Arlo, make the difference between survival and withering.
Keeping this in mind, in the run-up to the next offensive against the same enemy group days later, Arlo had first made a stop at the local precinct, sitting down with the police to make the final polishes to the plan of attack.
Together they agreed that those in uniform would enter hostile territory first; closely behind would follow Arlo’s men, ready to “sweep” the area. The National Guard, the federal government’s militarized flagship security force with whose local commander Arlo said he had achieved amicable terms, would remain on alert but not get involved unless things went wrong.
An hour later, around 70 combatants, mostly youngsters in camouflage but with red ribbons tied around the tips of their semiautomatic weapons to avoid friendly fire in the pending battle, came together in a mango orchard five kilometers from the border with the enemy group. As they started to board a procession of pickup trucks and armored SUVs, he made clear that no video or photo was to be taken, let alone uploaded to social media.
A resident in a rehabilitation center. His tattoo reads: “God confronts his best warriors with his worst battles.” falko ernst
Like other armed groups, he preferred to avoid the type of public scrutiny that can upend delicate arrangements with state actors.
Human refill
That day, Arlo’s side carved another chunk out of their adversary’s turf without suffering casualties (the same could not be said of the opposition). Death and injury due to violence is commonplace in Michoacán, a state that in the past decade has seen a daily average of 5.1 persons killed.
It is predominantly young men who “provide the dead,” as locals phrase it. Out of the 369,150 homicide victims in Mexico from 2007, the first full year of former President Calderón’s military campaign, through to June 2021, 193,302 — or 52% — were no older than 34 years, according to Mexico’s national statistical body INEGI.
I spoke to Cristián, one young sicario trying to avoid becoming part of this statistic at a local rehabilitation center — armed group membership and methamphetamine consumption often go hand in hand. In a medical examination room that doubles as a conversation space, he talked about his path from life as a former self-described “gangbanger” in a major California city to Michoacán’s front lines, including a training and initiation regimen of appalling brutality.
Those that fail to jump through these hoops, according to Pelón, the young armed group leader, are easily replaced. “There’s always human refill,” he said.
Just like the others who told me their story that day, including a kid who started out as a sicario when he was 12 years old, tears welled up from underneath his steely facade as he recounted his story. “I’m so sorry,” he said, “but I’ve never told all this to anyone.”
He, alongside others in the rehabilitation center, put their hope in programs that might eventually pave their way back to a peaceful existence, potentially by offering legal work in exchange for taking part in transitional justice initiatives designed for young offenders by local civil society.
But an official in charge of public security in a major Tierra Caliente town told me, “None whatsoever currently exist.”
Changing that, I was left thinking as a few days later I sat on a bus leaving the region, would be a worthy way to begin interrupting the region’s continuing bloodshed.
The original text of this article was adapted minimally for grammar, punctuation, style and layout.
Eight people were killed in an armed confrontation over control of a Hidalgo cement plant early Wednesday, state authorities said.
Governor Omar Fayad announced the deaths at the Cruz Azul cement plant in Tula on Twitter and condemned the violence. He also said that 11 people were injured and nine people were arrested. The former number was later revised to 12.
The Hidalgo Security Ministry (SSP) said in a statement that reports to the 911 emergency number alerted authorities to clashes between two groups of people at one of the entrances to the plant owned by Cruz Azul, which is also the proprietor of the Cruz Azul professional soccer club.
The violence reportedly occurred before 5:00 a.m. Wednesday when one group – made up of as many as 200 people – tried to take control of the plant, which is located about 90 kilometers north of Mexico City.
The SSP said that police, Civil Protection personnel and medical personnel responded to the clash. The aggressors also set several vehicles on fire and cut the cement plant’s electricity supply, the newspaper Reforma reported.
The Associated Press reported that the clash came after at least a decade of angry, sometimes violent disputes within the Cruz Azul employees’ cooperative. Local media reports said the confrontation was related to a long-running leadership dispute.
There are two rival groups, one led by Federico Sarabia and another led by José Antonio Marín.
Hidalgo Attorney General Alejandro Habib said there are over 30 investigations into different crimes related to the conflict between the two groups. He also said lawsuits related to the management of the cooperative have been filed in Mexico City and other entities.
The Cruz Azul cooperative condemned the violence and said it had taken legal action Sarabia and those who “to this day” have hijacked control of the plant. The group led by Sarabia has allowed access to groups of outside vandals that have attacked workers and placed them at risk, it said.