Wednesday, October 22, 2025

Election results spell complications for the opposition in 2024

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mexico political parties

Mexico’s opposition is on track to lose four state governorships to the ruling party after elections on Sunday, slowing its recent momentum against the country’s populist president and complicating its path to victory in major elections in 2024.

After defeating Morena’s radical energy reform in the lower house earlier this year, some political analysts believed the unified opposition could continue to gather momentum. But Sunday’s preliminary results serve as a bellwether of public opinion and show the group of formerly rival parties is struggling to convert congressional gains into electoral results.

“This strengthens Morena’s narrative . . . that they are powerful,” said Francisco Abundis of polling group Parametria, who noted that quick counts showed Morena likely won by more than 30 percentage points in two states. “[The opposition] should be worried, not just because they lost the governorships as expected but because of the margins.”

The ballots are the last broad electoral test before 2024, when the country will hold elections at all levels of government, including the presidency. The president is limited to one term but Morena’s dominance at the state level will give it advantages in terms of resources and visibility to help López Obrador’s chosen successor win.

Morena’s enduring electoral strength despite weak economic growth is partly down to voter identification with the president, who has approval ratings of almost 60%. His idiosyncratic agenda has married extreme fiscal austerity with combative anti-business rhetoric and regulatory decisions that benefit state companies.

Supporters laud his personal displays of austerity and believe he is standing up for the country’s poorest, while his critics say he has attacked fragile institutions and poses a risk to Mexico’s relatively young democracy.

The shift in power highlighted by Morena’s election victory in 2018 has transformed Mexican politics and significantly weakened the Institutional Revolutionary party (PRI), which had ruled uninterrupted for 70 years until 2000. Hidalgo state, which Morena also won on Sunday, was governed by the PRI and its predecessors since the party’s founding in 1929.

It now holds just a handful of the 32 governorships, two of which are due for elections next year.

Morena has managed to recreate some of the PRI’s dominance but with the key difference that the current elections are democratic, said Arturo Sánchez Gutiérrez, a politics professor at Tec de Monterrey university and former board member of the electoral authority.

“We have a map that looks much like the political system Mexico had before its transition to democracy,” he said, highlighting Morena’s strong majority. “That’s the democratic challenge the country has.”

Both the ruling and opposition coalitions will need to maintain unity in their campaigns to win in two years’ time, analysts said. Foreign minister Marcelo Ebrard and Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum, Morena’s leading candidates, are already touring the country seeking votes. Senate leader and fellow Morena hopeful Ricardo Monreal has warned that the process for choosing the next candidate must be transparent.

Among the three-party opposition, a clear leader or potential candidate has not yet emerged. In another blow, the center-left Citizens Movement said on Sunday it would not join the alliance for state governorship votes in 2023.

“The opposition hasn’t managed to build an alternative narrative, much less position its candidates,” Sánchez said. “That’s maybe the biggest challenge they will have in the next two years.”

© 2022 The Financial Times Ltd. All rights reserved. Please do not copy and paste FT articles and redistribute by email or post to the web.

Tortilla shops, schools reopen after extortion threats in Zihuatanejo

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Public transportation, tortillerías and other businesses and services are opening back up this week.
Public transportation, tortillerías and other businesses and services are opening back up this week.

Tortilla shops and schools have reopened in Zihuatanejo, Guerrero, after closing last week due to arson attacks and threats from organized crime.

Tortillerías – most of which closed last Thursday after receiving calls and messages demanding payments in exchange for not setting their businesses on fire – reopened Saturday, while students returned to classes on Monday. Tortilla shop owners also received death threats, the newspaper Reforma reported.

A Zihuatanejo hotelier told Reforma that public transit services – which partially shut down last week after two vehicles were torched – are also returning to normal.

State and federal security forces have ramped up their presence in the Pacific coast resort town amid calls from residents and politicians for more to be done to combat criminals, who also set a Zihuatanejo beer store on fire last Thursday.

Two public transport vehicles were burned in the wave of violence that swept the city last week.
Two public transport vehicles were burned in the wave of violence that swept the city last week. Twitter / @General_Beltran

Federal Deputy Ivonne Ortega said that a new security strategy is needed in Zihuatanejo and other parts of the country because President López Obrador’s so-called “hugs, not bullets” approach – which favors addressing the root causes of violence over combating it with force – is not working.

“It’s clear that the ‘hugs, not bullets’ thing has no validity for [organized] crime and only provides impunity to the criminals to harass and attack citizens,” the Citizens Movement party lawmaker said.

“More and more regions of the country are at the mercy of those who violate the law. A real security strategy is urgently needed, not just propaganda,” Ortega said.

Manuel Añorve, an Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) senator and president of the upper house’s justice committee, said it was regrettable that organized crime had partially shut down Zihuatanejo and declared that federal security forces “must strengthen their presence” in the popular tourism destination.

The National Guard, the army and the navy patrolled the city’s streets over the weekend alongside state police.

Añorve said that the federal forces must maintain a permanent presence in order to ensure security in a destination that “generates thousands of jobs for Guerrero.”

Zihuatanejo, a municipality that includes the resort town of Ixtapa, is the southern state’s second most popular coastal destination after Acapulco, located 250 kilometers to the south. It is currently governed by PRI Mayor Jorge Sánchez Allec, while the Morena party, founded by López Obrador, has been in power in Guerrero since October.

With reports from Reforma 

With dictators off Americas Summit official guest list, AMLO will stay at home

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President López Obrador said he plans to mention his concerns regarding American continental unity when he meets with U.S. President Biden in July.
President López Obrador said he will mention his concerns regarding American continental unity when he meets with U.S. President Joe Biden in July. Presidencia de la República

President López Obrador announced Monday that he won’t attend this week’s Summit of the Americas because all nations of the region weren’t invited, making good on a threat he made last month.

The United States government, which is hosting the June 6-10 regional meeting, decided against inviting Cuba, Venezuela and Nicaragua due to the lack of democracy and respect for human rights in those countries, according to U.S. sources who spoke with the Bloomberg news agency.

López Obrador said in early May that he wouldn’t attend the Los Angeles summit if any nation was excluded, declaring that “even with our differences, we have to have dialogue” and that countries must treat each other in a “brotherly” way.

He confirmed his decision at his regular news conference on Monday morning. “About the summit, you can now inform Mexico that I’m not going to attend,” López Obrador told reporters.

A Los Angeles highway billboard welcomes attendees to the Summit of the Americas, which started Monday without President López Obrador in attendance.
A Los Angeles highway billboard welcomes attendees to the Summit of the Americas, which started Monday without President López Obrador in attendance. Twitter / @WHAAsstSecty

“… I’m not going to the summit because all the countries of America aren’t invited,” he said.

The president said that Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard would represent him at the event before revealing that he would meet with United States President Joe Biden in July.

“I’m going to go and see him at the White House and I want to talk with him about the issue of the integration of all of America,” he said.

López Obrador reiterated his proposal for all Western Hemisphere nations to band together in a European Union-style bloc.

“But this will mean a change in politics, leaving confrontation, hate, threats, blockades and interference behind and choosing fraternity, a good neighbors policy,” he said.

López Obrador claimed that the United States’ decision not to invite the governments of Cuba, Venezuela and Nicaragua to the ninth Summit of the Americas was part of an “old policy of interventionism.”

“I believe in the need to change the policy that has been imposed for centuries – exclusion, wanting to dominate without any reason, not respecting the sovereignty of countries, the independence of each country,” he said.

“There can’t be a Summit of the Americas if all the countries of the American continent don’t participate, or there can be but we believe that [hosting a meeting without all Western Hemisphere nations] is to continue with the old policy of interventionism, of lack of respect for nations and their people,” López Obrador said.

Jorge Ramos, a prominent Spanish-language television anchor and journalist in the U.S., was critical of AMLO's decision.
Jorge Ramos, a prominent Spanish-language television anchor and journalist in the U.S., was critical of AMLO’s decision. Public domain / Bill Ingalls

“I really regret this situation. … I don’t accept anyone positioning themselves above [other] countries. I don’t accept hegemonies from China, Russia or the United States. All countries, as small as they may be, are free and independent,” he said.

Writing in the newspaper Reforma, United States-based Mexican journalist Jorge Ramos renewed his criticism of López Obrador for expressing support for the “dictators” in Cuba, Venezuela and Nicaragua, who he charged are “at the front of machineries created to murder, torture and do everything possible to remain in power.”

“… Cozying up to and speaking for the dictators of Cuba, Nicaragua and Venezuela – as the president of Mexico has done – is a mistake; it’s to turn … [his] back on the thousands of victims of those dictatorships. AMLO had the option to choose the dictators or their people. And he preferred the tyrants,” he wrote.

“… The Summit of the Americas is the meeting of a club of democracies. Cuba, Nicaragua and Venezuela aren’t democracies. There’s no reason to give their dictators the same recognition as legitimately elected presidents,” Ramos asserted.

“… There is nothing more shameful than sticking up for tyrants. … I don’t understand why López Obrador is doing the dirty work for the continent’s worst leaders. He chose the wrong side of history,” he wrote.

Ramos last month criticized the president for insisting that the presidents of Cuba, Venezuela and Nicaragua be invited to this week’s regional meeting.

“What he’s asking is that thugs, torturers, censors and oppressors … be invited to the party,” he tweeted.

With reports from Reforma 

Mexican cuisine makes list of world’s top 10

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Several traditional salsas with their ingredients.
Several typical Mexican salsas and their ingredients. (Deposit Photos)

Mexico has the seventh best cuisine in the world, according to a 50-nation ranking compiled by the international food guide website TasteAtlas.

Mexico was the only Latin American country in the top 10 of the June update of the culinary ranking released by TasteAtlas. The list was dominated by Europe: Italy, Greece, Spain, Romania and France made up the top five, while Croatia and Portugal were djudged eighth and ninth.

Meanwhile, representing Asia were Japan in sixth place and India in 10th.

The other Latin American countries on the list were Brazil (12th), El Salvador (27th), Chile (30th), Peru (32nd), Argentina (33rd), Venezuela (39th), Bolivia (48th) and Uruguay (49th).

However, as could be expected, the citizens of some countries were in strong disagreement with the list. “Peru and Argentina in 32nd and 33rd in gastronomy?” one Twitter user queried, referring to two countries famed for the high quality of their food and drink.

“United States in 13th place? They all voted wrong,” another Twitter user wrote, referring to a nation less often recognized for its culinary delights.

Some countries weren’t involved in the ranking due to the website’s methodology, which only included cuisines that have 30 or more dishes, beverages or food products rated on the platform. The score for each country included was taken from the average score of their top 30 culinary offerings.

Mexico’s most popular dishes on TasteAtlas are tacos, tortillas, nachos, tamales and burritos. The country’s most popular drinks are tequila, margaritas, mezcal, licuados (smoothies) and aguas frescas (flavored waters).

TasteAtlas is an online encyclopedia of 10,000 dishes and drinks, presented as a world map, where users can browse local cuisines and search for restaurants. The website also offers extensive recipes.

With reports from Milenio

Quinceañera turns tragic when 8 drown during boat excursion

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Sonora Civil Protection received the first report of the accident at 3 p.m. on Sunday, the agency said.
Scene of Sunday's boating accident. Facebook / Protección Civil Sonora

A birthday celebration became a tragic occasion in Sonora on Sunday when an overcrowded boat capsized and eight people drowned, including at least two children.

Nineteen people boarded a small fishboat with capacity for six passengers in Guaymas, 130 kilometers south of Hermosillo.

The 6-meter-long, 3-meter-wide panga departed without informing authorities and without radio communication, lifejackets or sufficient seating on board. It was taken without permission by the son of the owner, the newspaper El Universal reported.

The boat tipped over near the San Vicente Arch, a rock formation and tourist attraction southeast of the city.

Eight people were killed, including a one-year-old baby and another child. Eleven people were rescued.

The group appears to have been a family from the nearby city of Empalme celebrating a quinceañera, a coming of age ceremony common in Mexico for girls’ 15th birthday parties.

Authorities said human error and irresponsible behavior had caused the accident. Civil Protection agents worked alongside navy marines and firefighters in the rescue effort which included two search and rescue boats and a helicopter.

With reports from El Universal

Morena party wins governors’ offices in 4 of 6 states in Sunday vote

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Morena's winning gubernatorial candidates were Julio Menchaca in Hidalgo, Salomón Jara in Oaxaca, Américo Villarreal in Tamaulipas and Mara Lezama in Quintana Roo.
Morena's winning gubernatorial candidates were Julio Menchaca in Hidalgo, Salomón Jara in Oaxaca, Américo Villarreal in Tamaulipas and Mara Lezama in Quintana Roo.

The Morena party won four of six gubernatorial elections held Sunday, preliminary results showed, increasing the number of federal entities controlled by the ruling party to 20.

The National Electoral Institute’s fast count results showed that Morena candidates triumphed in Hidalgo, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo and Tamaulipas, an outcome predicted by polls.

Candidates representing an alliance made up of the main opposition parties – the National Action Party (PAN), the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD) – won in Aguascalientes and Durango.

Morena, whose candidates ran on tickets supported by minor parties such as Labor and the Green Party (PVEM), easily won the elections in Hidalgo, Oaxaca and Quintana Roo, while the fast count results showed a much closer race in Tamaulipas.

Julio Menchaca, a former federal senator and judge, is set to become the next governor of Hidalgo, securing between 60% and 63% of the vote, about double that of PAN-PRI-PRD contender Carolina Viggiano, a former federal deputy. The result will bring PRI’s long-held control of Hidalgo to an end.

Salomón Jara, a former federal senator and state agriculture minister, achieved a similarly thumping victory in Oaxaca, attracting support from 58% to 61% of voters, over double that garnered by PRI-PRD candidate Alejandro Avilés, a state deputy.

Former Benito Juárez (Cancún) mayor Mara Lezama will be sworn in as Quintana Roo’s first female governor later this year after winning between 55% and 58% of the vote in the Caribbean coast state. PAN-PRD candidate Laura Fernández, a former federal deputy and state tourism minister, was a distant second with support in the range of 15% to 18%.

Américo Villareal, Morena’s candidate in Tamaulipas, triumphed over the opposition’s César Verástegui, who served as government secretary in the current PAN administration led by Francisco García Cabeza de Vaca. Fast count results showed Villareal, a medical doctor and former federal senator, with between 49% and 53% of the vote compared to a range of 42% to 45% for Verástegui.

PAN-PRI-PRD candidate Teresa Jiménez is set to become the first female governor of Aguascalientes.
PAN-PRI-PRD candidate Teresa Jiménez is set to become the first female governor of Aguascalientes. Twitter / @TereJimenezE

While Morena was the big winner on Sunday, the opposition took heart from its victories in Aguascalientes and Durango.

PAN-PRI-PRD candidate Teresa Jiménez, a former federal deputy and mayor of Aguascalientes city, attracted between 51% and 55% of the vote, putting her well ahead of Morena contender Nora Ruvalcaba, who was supported by about one-third of voters. Jímenez will be the first female governor of Aguascalientes, Mexico’s third smallest state by area.

In Durango, PAN-PRI-PRD candidate Esteban Villegas, a former state health minister and mayor of Durango city, attracted between 52% and 55% of the vote, fast track results showed, while support for Morena aspirant Marina Vitela was about 40%.

Once the new governors take office, Morena will govern 20 of Mexico’s 32 federal entities. Governors representing parties allied with Morena – Cuauhtémoc Blanco of Morelos (Social Encounter Party) and Ricardo Gallardo of San Luis Potosí (PVEM) – are in office in two other states.

Esteban Villegas celebrates winning the Durango governorship on the ticket of Va por México, the PAN-PRI-PRD opposition alliance.
Esteban Villegas celebrates winning the Durango governorship on the ticket of Va por México, the PAN-PRI-PRD opposition alliance. Twitter / @EVillegasV

President López Obrador asserted Monday that the opposition’s “classism” was a factor in its poor results in the states won by Morena, a party he founded.

“I shouldn’t be giving advice … but they should carry out a review of their strategy, it affects them a lot, … their classism, their racism” he told reporters at his morning news conference. “… They show disdain for people, they have no love for people,” claimed López Obrador, who continues to enjoy a high approval rating 3 1/2 years after taking office.

In addition to highlighting Morena’s favorable results, the president emphasized that Sunday’s elections were peaceful, although there were reports of armed men stealing ballot boxes in Tamaulipas.

“Although passions are inflamed during elections there were no deaths, there wasn’t any violence. The citizens, as always, rose to the occasion. My congratulations to all those who participated yesterday …” he said.

Meanwhile, the national leaders of PAN, PRI and the PRD all contended that the results showed that the opposition alliance – called Va por México – will be competitive at the 2024 federal election, at which voters will elect a new president and renew both houses of Congress.

“National Electoral Institute data shows that Va por México represents a [political] force with 40% [support] at a national level,” PRI chief Alejandro Moreno tweeted Monday.

“That’s why … [Morena] wants to divide the opposition because they know that if we make a complete coalition we’ll win the presidency,” he wrote.

However, a recent poll suggests that Morena will easily win the 2024 presidential election if it nominates either Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum or Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard as its candidate.

With reports from Milenio and Reforma 

Everyone deserves to live in a place that’s safe, functional and pleasing

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abandoned Infonavit home in Puebla, Mexico
In 2020, it was reported that 600,000 government-built affordable homes across Mexico lay abandoned because they were not accessible to any services.

I just took a trip!

It was just a short trip to Mexico City to get my daughter’s passport renewed but, oh, what a breath of fresh air to get out of one’s own city once in a while. And now, after two and a half long years, we are finally going to be able to travel home to Texas for a couple weeks this summer.

We made sure to stay close to the U.S. Embassy so that we could be there on time for our 8 a.m. appointment. (By the way — for those of you with appointments soon — you do need an appointment, but once you get there you have to line up outside and it’s first come first serve, so go early!) in the beautiful Roma neighborhood, which to me is an urban utopia.

The streets and sidewalks were wide and well-kept, the buildings were beautiful, and there were trees and plants everywhere. Properties were, for the most part, well taken care of, and crosswalk lights clearly indicated where to go.

To my delight, there were several breweries in the area (I had a delicious blonde ale with avocado leaf and a stout that was essentially layered chocolate cake, if you must know), as well as coffee shops and convenience stores, many with cute little patio coverings for sidewalk lounging and dining. Murals seemed to be everywhere.

As we hung out with my daughter at one of the giant public playgrounds and listened to all the different languages being spoken, I found myself thinking what I always think when I’m in this kind of neighborhood: why can’t all places be this nice?

I know the litany of obvious answers. Mostly it’s money and investment.

But bringing money and investment to a place doesn’t necessarily fix any problems without creating new ones, and that’s what makes me despair. What I want to know is this: is there a difference between gentrification and the real, tangible improvement of a place? Is it possible to make a place beautiful, accessible and safe without making it economically inaccessible to those who already live there?

Surely there is a way, though it’s not something I’ve figured out yet. And you all know (well, you do if you’ve been reading my column for a while) that I deeply value good design and intentional physical beauty in the communities that we humans create for ourselves.

In fact, I’d say that one of my most sacred beliefs is that everyone deserves to have physical surroundings that are safe, functional and pleasing.

Safe and functional seem straightforward, but even that can be tricky. Safe for whom? People? Cars? Bikes? Animals? Functional for which members of the community? You simply can’t just plop a bunch of “improvements” in the middle of nowhere without asking people what they actually need and want. And even when you do, not everyone everywhere is going to be happy with the changes.

“Pleasing” is even more difficult. The jury’s always out on that, and I can certainly accept that not everyone out there possesses my own hippie-bougie aesthetic ideals.

So it’s not that I think that all of urban Mexico should look exactly like the upscale Roma and Condesa neighborhoods. I just think that everyone in urban Mexico deserves that level of care put into the designs of their communities.

Mexico City – at least the places I passed on the bus – does seem to be getting the hang of it fairly well. Murals were everywhere in the city, as were playgrounds with exercise equipment and tracks wrapping around them. Public transportation had expanded since the last time I went.

So, surely there are a few things that we can agree on: walkable sidewalks, drivable streets, bike lanes for people who ride bikes.

Plants and paint, as well, go a very long way, and they’re relatively cheap.

But how to prevent gentrification?

I think the key is community involvement in revitalizing what’s there: letting those who actually live in those spaces decide how those resources will be displayed in the neighborhoods where they live.

Having them participate in what’s produced would mean some important steps in ownership and pride, similar to what the Mar de Jade Hotel has provided for young people where it’s building.

Can this get everyone their own versions of Roma … ones that they actually get to stay in?

Time (and politics) will tell. But I stand firm in one basic belief: everyone deserves to live in a place like that.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.

Try Mazatlán’s claim to seafood fame: aguachile

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aguchile
Aguachile done right transcends its handful of ingredients.

I was embarrassed — really, really embarrassed — to ask a chef friend how to make aguachile.

I’ve eaten it a million times; I know it’s a simple dish with only a handful of basic ingredients: raw shrimp, fresh lime juice, chile, onion, cilantro and sometimes cucumber. Simple, yes, but iconic and Mazatlán’s claim to seafood fame, so I wanted to do it right.

I think I even blushed as I asked him if he’d come over and show me.

“Absolutely,” he said. “It’s easy. You need serrano chile. And red onion.” And so my lesson began.

female shrimp sellers (changueras) in Mazatlan
Changueras selling shrimp and other seafood in Mazatlán.

Aguachile may be Mazatlán’s best-known dish, and given that the city is known as the “Shrimp Capital of the World,” that makes total sense. According to Mexico’s National Aquaculture and Fisheries Commission (Conapesca), an impressive 10,000 tonnes of wild shrimp are caught in the waters off Mazatlán each year, and even more farmed shrimp is produced.

Needless to say, shrimp is plentiful throughout town, on restaurant menus, in the mercados and from las changueras, Mazatlán’s fabled “shrimp ladies,” who sell a wide variety of camarones and other shellfish every day of the year from their outdoor stands in the historic center.

Shrimp season is basically September/October to March/April, depending on how and where the shrimp are caught. (Farmed shrimp is available year-round.)

Wild shrimp are caught with nets either close to shore by fishermen in small boats (pangas) or many miles out to sea by big commercial trawlers that flash-freeze the shrimp immediately upon catching them. That’s good news for us, because it means we can have almost-fresh shrimp all the time; I buy frozen ones in one-kilo bags to keep in the freezer at home.

Some say aguachile was first made in Mazatlán, although folks in the Sinaloa cities of Culiacán and Los Mochis might disagree. Either way, when Sinaloan cuisine is mentioned aguachile is always at the top of the list.

Originally made with chiltepines — tiny, fiery, round chiles grown regionally — contemporary recipes use the more common (and not quite as hot!) serrano chiles instead, whirred in a blender with water and lime juice to make a sort of marinade.

Aguachile can also be made with scallops (callos de hacha). And in fact the name aguachile literally means “water chile.” It’s a wonderful and refreshing dish after a hot day at the beach, or any hot day (of which there are many in Mexico!).

What were the take-aways from my cooking lesson?

aguachile
Something this delicious shouldn’t be so easy to make!

Don’t leave the shrimp too long in the lime juice or they’ll get tough; so you want to time your prep according to when you want to eat.

Serrano peppers (which I rarely use) have lots more seeds, packed tightly inside the pepper skin. Cut them and the white skin surrounding them out of the skin carefully, using a small, sharp knife — and don’t touch your eyes! Scrub your hands thoroughly with soap and water after cutting or handling them.

It helps to have all your ingredients prepped before you start so you can quickly and easily move through the different steps of the recipe.

Other than that, it’s easy — just like my friend said.

Aguachile de Camarón Mazatlán Style

  • 1 lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • ½ cup fresh lime juice
  • 3-4 Tbsp. water
  • 1-3 serrano peppers, stems and seeds removed
  • 1¼ tsp. salt, plus more to taste
  • ¼ cup thinly sliced red onion
  • 1 medium cucumber, peeled
  • ¼ cup chopped cilantro
  • Fresh ground black pepper, to taste
  • 8 corn tostadas
  • 1-2 avocados, sliced

Using a small, sharp knife, butterfly the shrimp open. If you like, cut into two pieces. (This helps the shrimp lay flat while marinating.) Rinse shrimp in cold water; pat dry with paper towels and set aside while you prep the remaining ingredients.

In a blender, place the chiles, lime juice, 3 Tbsp. of the water, half the cilantro and a teaspoon of salt. Process until the chiles are just broken up; it doesn’t need to be a smooth paste. Alternatively, using a mortar and pestle, combine chiles with a pinch of salt and pulverize thoroughly, then add lime juice and cilantro and continue to work until chiles are reduced to tiny bits.

Place shrimp in a shallow glass dish or ceramic bowl (not metal). Pour sauce over shrimp, stirring to mix well. Marinate in the refrigerator 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, to allow the lime juice to “cook” the shrimp. The outside of the shrimp will turn white and opaque when they are ready.

Meanwhile, cut cucumber in half lengthwise. Scrape out seeds with a spoon and discard. Cut remaining cucumber into ¼-inch thick slices or into ¼-inch cubes. Set aside.

When ready to serve, spoon shrimp and sauce onto a serving platter. Layer the cucumbers and onions over the top or around the edges, or gently stir them into the shrimp mixture.

Sprinkle with the remaining cilantro, cover and chill for 15 more minutes to blend the flavors. Garnish with black pepper and avocado slices and with tostadas or saltine crackers.

For the best flavor and texture, serve within two hours.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Pioneering farmers aim to change Veracruz’s mediocre coffee reputation

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Finca Cañada Fria coffee farm in Huatusco, Veracruz
Checking the award-winning crops at Finca Cañada Fría near Huatusco, Veracruz. Finca Cañada Fría

Unfortunately, despite being the second largest producer of coffee in Mexico after Chiapas, Veracruz’s coffee reputation is highly linked to low-quality beans used for instant coffee, in particular the ubiquitous Nescafé brand.

But Veracruz is where coffee got its start in mainland America. Coffee plants arrived at the port of Veracruz in the 18th century, with the first plantings near Córdoba. From there, coffee made its way to other parts of Mexico and South America.

By the end of the 19th century, Veracruz was producing three-fourths of Mexico’s coffee. The Mexican Revolution, land redistribution in the 1930s and other economic activities such as oil has since pushed this percentage down. Today, Veracruz accounts for only 24% of Mexico’s coffee production.

Veracruz has 10 regions north to south that can grow the bean, and it is still a vital cash crop in 842 communities in 82 municipalities. By far, most are very small producers with small plots who feverishly try to get as much coffee out of them as possible to survive.

Arabica vs. robusta coffee beans
The arabica bean, left, and the easier-to-grow robusta bean, right. lovelypeace/Shutterstock

Unfortunately, a lot of that production is of the low-quality robusta bean for mainstream commercial coffees. Robusta is relatively easy to grow and has ready customers, even if they pay very little.

However, Veracruz has areas suited for the growing of quality and even superb coffees. Varying between 700 and 1,400 meters in altitude, the region, marked off by the cities of Xalapa, Córdoba and Orizaba, is prime coffee country.

This area not only has the climate that arabica beans need but also volcanic soils that impart an intense aroma and full body along with spice notes.

It is not easy to get the farmers of this region to take full advantage of what Mother Nature has to offer. Daniel Cobilt of Finca Cañada Fría admits that many are afraid of the risks of venturing into high-quality and specialty beans. Serious work is needed at the learning and growing end, and there is no guarantee that the final crop will be ranked as “specialty” or gourmet quality after harvesting. Experience tempers this, but weather issues are always a risk.

Museo de Cafe in Cordoba, Veracruz
Inside the Museo de Café in Córdoba, Veracruz, which promotes Veracruz coffees. Tours end with a tasting.

Despite this, fincas (farms) such as Cañada Fría, El Suspiro, Kassandra, Arriaga and more have won national and international awards, opening doors to markets willing to pay much more. This can and should be essential, Cobilt says, because small plots really cannot compete with large plantations on price — nor should they, he says, as such farms destroy the environment.

The other way to make the most out of small farms is agricultural and ecotourism, but this is in its infancy here. The good thing is that the area is mostly free of kitschy zip-line attractions and the like, but almost all the coffee tourism here steers visitors to Córdoba, Coatepec, Orizaba and Xalapa.

There is a Coffee Route (Ruta de Café), but it is not like others, such as the Ruta de Chocolate in Tabasco. There, you can drive along a marked road and find signs advertising farms with restaurants, stores selling chocolate and even short demonstrations of how chocolate is grown and processed. There is nothing like this in northern Veracruz.

To do more than just sit at a cafe in one of the cities on the route requires a little research and planning. The Museo de Café in Córdoba —  a collaborative effort sponsored in part by Mexico’s main agricultural college, the University of Chapingo — gives a quick overview of coffee in Mexico and Veracruz, along with a coffee tasting.

Daniel and Monserrat Cobilt of Finca Cañada Fría in Veracruz
Don Daniel Cobilt and daughter Monserrat of Finca Cañada Fría. Their “specialty bar” in Huatusco promotes exceptional quality coffee and gourmet preparation.

However, visits right now are via guided tours given by only one professional, Patricia Ponce. To take advantage of this, you need to go to the museum and find out when the next tour is. At any time, you can go in and buy coffees from the region. The museum has a special line of Café de Autor (signature coffees), labeled with the producer’s name — usually individual farm owners unable to market the finished product. Unfortunately, these coffees are not available for purchase online.

A few fincas and entrepreneurs have their own tours, which must be arranged before you come to the area. This has always been the case, but farms are even more strict lately, as many here are still very fearful of COVID despite the fact that mask-wearing has become optional in most places.

Your best bet for finding a farm tour is with El Café-tal, which has its main facilities in El Grande near Coatepec. It has stores in in Xalapa and Coatepec. Tours of its facilities, including a museum, are by appointment only.

Other tours, also by appointment, include those run by Finca Arriaga, Finca Don Silvano  and Finca San Felipe. Cafe de Mi Rancho runs its tours out of Córdoba.

Veracruz coffee plantation, late 1800s
A Veracruz coffee plantation, exact location unknown. Image taken sometime between 1865 and 1895. Cornell University Library

It is mostly the same story with online sales. Fincas do ship all over Mexico, but almost always to other cafes and specialty stores. El Café-tal is the only site set up to sell to individuals. Many have Facebook pages, but they assume customers will call to find out everything they need to know.

There is no lack of good cafes in the towns on the coffee route: Coatepec, in particular, is full of them. But one off the beaten track is well worth the visit: Finca Cañada Fria opened what they call a “specialty bar” to demonstrate the extraordinary coffee they produce, and how it should be prepared. It is located in a town called Huatusco, a municipality surrounded by coffee farms but unknown to tourism. However, you can find the cafe easily on Google Maps.

One last piece of advice: if you drive on the main highway into Orizaba and Córdoba, keep an eye out for people selling “galletas de café” on the side of the road. Yes, you have to come to a screeching halt, but I swear the cookies are worth it.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Empty pockets, gifts all round: the week at the morning news conferences

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The president speaks at his Monday press conference.
The president speaks at his Monday press conference. Presidencia de la República

The United States is set to host its Summit of the Americas on June 6. By the start of last week President López Obrador still hadn’t confirmed whether he would attend, displeased at the absence of invites for Cuba, Nicaragua and Venezuela.

Monday

The president kicked off the week with a sporting roundup. He congratulated Sergio “Checo” Pérez for his Formula 1 triumph in Monaco on Sunday and Atlas for defeating Pachuca in the first leg of the Mexican soccer league final. “Also, a hug for Pachuca supporters,” he added, offering consolation to the losers.

On the Summit of the Americas, López Obrador said he was still waiting for an official response to whether all nations are invited, while conceding that U.S. President Joe Biden was preoccupied with the recent mass murder of schoolchildren in Texas.

“I know that he’s under great pressure, but when it comes to deciding between political impact and principles, one must always lean toward principles,” the president said.

At the end of the conference, López Obrador strode off stage, headed for another engagement. He later hosted indigenous people from Jalisco and Nayarit at the National Palace to discuss land and agriculture.

Tuesday

Health Minister Jorge Alcocer reminded viewers and journalists that Tuesday was World No Tobacco Day and announced that the World Health Organization (WHO) would award AMLO with a “special prize” for combating tobacco consumption.

A World Health Organization representative presents President López Obrador with a recognition of his work to combat tobacco comsumption.
A World Health Organization representative presents President López Obrador with a recognition of his work to combat tobacco use. Presidencia de la República

The WHO’s representative in Mexico, Miguel Malo Serrano, attested to the dangers of tobacco which he said “don’t just kill people, but also damage mother nature,” pointing to the use of water and trees by the tobacco industry and companies’ carbon dioxide output. Shortly after, Malo presented the president with a certificate.

López Obrador revealed a vape pen he’d brought to the conference. “It’s worth 300 pesos, it’s consumed in a week … most mothers and fathers don’t know about the damage it causes. It’s a matter of information,” he said, before signing a decree restricting the sale of vape pens and electronic cigarettes for nicotine consumption.

Returning to the topic of damage, the president insisted his flagship Maya Train project was entirely benign after a federal judge partially suspended its construction. “We’re going to comply legally and they won’t be able to stop us. Private interests are not going to impose themselves, they won’t be above the public interest. The interest of the people … This is a political issue of those who don’t want the project to be carried out. They’re pseudo-environmentalists, financed by large companies,” he assured.

Wednesday

The president brought attention to Hurricane Agatha at the start of the conference, which hit Oaxaca on Tuesday.

“Today Oaxaca is in mourning,” Governor Alejandro Murat said through video link, and confirmed the hurricane had killed at least 11 people and left 33 missing. Murat added that a cyclone was likely to arrive later in the week.

Ana Elizabeth García Vilchis took center stage for her fake news roundup. Dispatching untruths with ease, she rejected claims that Pemex property was in disarray and corrected reports the president wanted to stop people smoking in some public places, a motion she clarified instead originated in Congress.

García rejected that gas would hit 40 pesos per liter and confirmed that AMLO and his friend, Argentine President Alberto Fernández, were not planning a rebel meeting in Los Angeles to coincide with the Summit of the Americas.

Elizabeth García Vilchis presents the "Who's who in the lies of the week" fake news segment on Wednesday.
Ana Elizabeth García presents the “Who’s who in the lies of the week” fake news segment on Wednesday. Presidencia de la República

The president dismissed more news as false: the head of the the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), Alejandro Moreno Cárdenas, said AMLO previously sent a senator to threaten PRI lawmakers into voting for the failed electricity reform. “It’s not true, I’m not going to discuss it. I never did that. It’s a matter of principles, ideals and morals,” he insisted.

On principles, the tabasqueño said that despite accruing wealth from book sales, money still didn’t matter to him. To evidence his disinterest in dollars and pesos he turned out his trouser pockets to show viewers and journalists they were empty.

Thursday

In the “Zero Impunity” section Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía Berdeja confirmed the arrest of a suspected violent criminal in Sonora, alias “The Nun.” Mejía added that an unusually named alleged serial rapist, Greek Román ‘N,’ had been arrested in Veracruz.

Celebrations opened the questions from the floor: it was one journalist’s special day. The reporter, who has previously addressed López Obrador as “the first president of the transformation of Mexico,” requested a signed copy of his book. With a scribble, AMLO granted the journalist’s birthday wish.

The president lined up the questions: “Let’s go. One, two, the lady at the back there. Three, four, five and six and seven.”

One of the chosen journalists raised a corruption accusation against former president Vicente Fox.

“We don’t have enemies. Former President Peña Nieto is not my enemy, nor [Felipe] Calderón nor Fox nor [Ernesto] Zedillo nor [Carlos] Salinas. We are adversaries, but I do not consider them my enemies,” the López Obrador responded.

Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía Berdeja awaits his turn to present on Thursday.
Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía Berdeja awaits his turn to present on Thursday. Presidencia de la República

The president’s charitable outlook apparently extended beyond retired politicians. “An elderly lady, a mother, deserves all respect,” he said of the mother of jailed former cartel leader Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán, whom he greeted warmly while campaigning in 2020.

Friday

Veteran politician Porfirio Muñoz Ledo and former Sinaloa governor Francisco Labastida had both accused the president of being linked to cartels. The tabasqueño was appalled by the suggestion. “It’s really very low, very vulgar all of this … Muñoz Ledo knows me very well and dares to maintain that the government has links with drug trafficking; it’s an unfounded, reckless judgment,” he said.

“If they have evidence, let them present it. Stop slandering … but don’t think I’m worried either, firstly because I’m at peace with my conscience and secondly because it’s false. I do not establish relations of complicity with anyone, that is why I can take on the mafia of power,” the president added.

On the international stage, López Obrador was also ready to battle vested interests. He said that Colombian left wing candidate Gustavo Petro was facing a “dirty war” which he described as “undignified and cowardly.” The Colombian election is set for June 19.

The president added that Petro had joined him and former U.S. President Barack Obama in a club of politicians who’d weathered slander campaigns in their own countries.

Mexico News Daily