Wednesday, April 30, 2025

Mexico’s firefly tourism trend could end up a victim of its own popularity

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Ejido Santa Rita Sanctuary firefly sanctuary, Tlahuapan, Puebla
Fireflies at the Ejido Santa Rita Sanctuary in Puebla. Ejido Santa Rita Sanctuary Facebook

Dancing pinpricks of light on a summer night are a treasured memory of my childhood in New Jersey. Fascinated, we kids caught fireflies (we called them “lightning bugs”) in a glass jar with the idea of making a lantern.

Mexico has them too, but like in the rest of the world, anecdotal evidence seems to indicate that populations have seriously diminished or have even been eradicated in some areas. Science has not yet backed that assertion up, but on-the-ground reports from the “firefly tourism,” sector — i.e. taking people to forests to see what I saw in my backyard — seems to support it.

For the moment, Mexico’s firefly tourism centers on Nanacamilpa, Tlaxcala, at the Santuario de las Luciérnagas (Firefly Sanctuary), a 200-hectare reserve in an isolated valley two hours northeast of Mexico City.

Locals there tell stories of entire trees being lit up with the insects in the past in a way that doesn’t happen today, but even so, the shows the fireflies offer are still worthy of awe.

The vast majority of the lights are those of males flying through the air trying desperately to attract the attention of the relatively few receptive females on the ground on any given night. Even worse, males have only a roughly 90-minute window in the early evening to get the job done.

Ejido Bosque Esmeralda, México state
Reforestation efforts at the Ejido Bosque Esmeralda near Amecameca, México state, with the dormant Iztaccihuatl volcano in the background.

The main species in Tlaxcala is Photinus palaciosi (formerly Macrolampis palaciosi), which emits a greenish glow created when its biochemical substance called luciferin interacts with oxygen. It is one of about 2,000 species of fireflies found worldwide and 164 found in Mexico.

Most fireflies do not put on spectacular nighttime shows. The glow originally evolved to warn predators that they are toxic, with a few species using it for mating.

Firefly season at the Tlaxcala sanctuary attracts thousands of people each year. The state puts safeguards in place to try and keep visitors’ impact to a minimum. Firefly observers are limited to 27 watching stations along 12 paths, and there are only certain official tour concessionaries certified by the government: Canto del Bosque, Xoletilandia, Las 4E, Aires del Bosque and Glamping Octli.

Reservations are necessary to access the park, which is limited only to certain hours. Visitors are not allowed to leave the proscribed paths nor use lights, cell phones, reflective clothing or insect repellent. Last year, the sanctuary was closed due to Covid-19, but this year it was reopened to 30% capacity for the season running from mid-June to mid-August.

It is very difficult to get reservations to visit, says Mario Bastida of Canto del Bosque, both because of the limited capacity and due to the fact that many of the available spaces have taken by those who had to cancel trips in 2020. Peter Winckers of Azteca Travel Tours Art recommends making a reservation for mid-week to have the best chance of getting a slot and getting to visit with fewer crowds.

Firefly tourism is a very recent phenomenon in Mexico. As late as 2012, the fireflies of Tlaxcala were unknown to the general populace and barely known to the scientific community. Of course, they were well-known to locals, who have childhood memories similar to mine.

Santuario de las Luciérnagas in Nanacamilpa, Tlaxcala
Tour group at Santuario de las Luciérnagas in Nanacamilpa, Tlaxcala, posing in front of a mural dedicated to the insects. Azteca Travel Tours Art

It is not known how this tourism started in Nanacamilpa, but true to Mexico, there are multiple stories with multiple people taking credit. Organized tours were being done before 2012.

When the number of visitors per season reached about 4,000, the Tlaxcala Tourism Ministry began to promote the activity. Only five years later, those numbers would swell to almost 100,000, forcing the same agency to scale back out of concern for the habitat.

The fireflies remain the number two attraction for the state, which has prompted an explosion of restaurants, hotels, cabins (both rustic and luxurious) and more in a corner of a state no one paid attention to before. Nor has the success gone unnoticed — both by the neighboring state of Puebla and by México state.

The natural range of Photinus palaciosi actually extends south into these states, specifically to the holm oak, pine and fir forests of the western slope of the Iztaccihuatl and Popocatépetl volcanoes. Forests in these states suffered extreme degradation in part due to their proximity to Mexico City, but reforestation efforts of the past decades have slowly brought firefly populations back.

Since 2017, there have been efforts to add firefly tourism to already existing ecotourism efforts. The Ejido Santa Rita Tlahuapan in Puebla started its own firefly sanctuary open to the public, announcing many of the same measures that are in place in Tlaxcala. In Amecameca, México state, the main viewing option is the Bosque Esmeralda Sanctuary. The success of these fledgling enterprises on communal ejido lands has sparked talk of a “Firefly Route.”

The meteoric rise of firefly tourism in these forests has also prompted concerns about sustainability: large crowds mean more foot traffic in the woods and more building of tourism infrastructure. In addition, little is known about the life cycle of this insect — how long they live, where and how long they are underground as larvae and the possible effects of light and chemical pollution.

Many of the rules imposed by the firefly sanctuaries are precautions, with no knowledge of how effective they are.

It is known that females lay between 100 and 150 eggs and that the species needs areas with abundant leaf litter, moist places to burrow, foods such as snails and slugs and other elements of a healthy native forest.

On the plus side, firefly tourism increases interest in the conservation and rehabilitation of the holm oak/pine/oyamel fir forests that were decimated after the Conquest and are still in danger in the present day. In Tlaxcala, the insects have brought a major source of income with them where there was almost nothing.

In Puebla and México, the fireflies are a welcome addition to a number of ecotourism efforts that have been developing here for decades. Winckers recommends the ones in Tlaxcala and Amecameca as they have better amenities such as restaurants and bathrooms as well as good local guides who take better care not to disrupt the reproduction cycle.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Town’s innovative water treatment plant is so simple, its residents can run it

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ornamental plants
Buying ornamental plants for the wastewater treatment site José de Anda and the Environmental Technology Research Center built for Atequizayán, Jalisco’s residents.

Hidden away in rural Mexico are majestic waterfalls, meandering rivers and sparkling lakes. These are the pride of local people and their favorite places to go for a carne asada on a Sunday afternoon.

Unfortunately, the water in many of these streams and lagoons is contaminated, and every rancher or campesino (farmer) picnicking nearby laments the fact that they are being polluted by aguas negras (blackwater) pouring into them from the nearest town.

When you suggest they build a sewage treatment plant, they almost always give you the same reply:

“We already have a planta de tratamiento, sí señor! The government built one for us 10 years ago, but, sad to say, it’s no longer in operation. The building is over there at the edge of town, locked up and abandoned.”

Building a plant, I learned, is one thing. Maintaining it is quite another. A small community cannot afford the high operating costs, and even less the salary of an expert to run the place.

José de Anda
José de Anda discusses the water-treatment project with local representatives of the town of Atequizayán.

Having heard this same story again and again, I was all ears when a biologist at the Autonomous University of Guadalajara mentioned to me that techniques exist for processing human waste using ponds and flowers with no need for chemicals or expensive machinery.

“There is,” professor José Luis Zavala said, “a low-tech solution to the aguas negras problem, and country people can maintain these sewage treatment sites all on their own.”

A few weeks later, I was introduced to Dr. José de Anda of Jalisco’s Environmental Technology Research Center. He and the now-deceased Dr. Alberto López-López developed a passive system for treating raw sewage using a constructed wetland that they demonstrated in 2018 was able to reduce organic contaminants and coliform counts to well within national environmental standards.

De Anda took me to the small town of Atequizayán, Jalisco, located near Ciudad Guzmán, 100 kilometers south of Guadalajara.

“With the cooperation of the local people, we have built a demonstration wastewater processing system using what is called a constructed wetland,” said de Anda.

Before arriving at Atequizayán, I had imagined the wetland I was about to visit would be some kind of swamp spread over many kilometers.

wetland processor
This demonstration plant uses natural processes to treat the raw sewage produced by a town of 800 people.

To my surprise, I saw that the demonstration treatment plant consisted of a small building next to what looked like a clay tennis court minus the net.

“Where’s the water?” I asked de Anda.

“Under what you are calling a tennis court,” he replied. “But the red surface you’re looking at isn’t clay, it’s a bed of small volcanic rocks, which go by the name of tezontle.”

Tezontle is a Mexican word for cinder-like volcanic rock filled with countless little holes, originally formed by gas bubbles. Tezontle (scoria to geologists) is available from Jalisco to Veracruz, and it’s just about the cheapest rock you can find in Mexico, widely used for road construction.

“You mean this little building plus a swimming pool full of cinders is capable of processing the sewage created by 800 people?”

“Yes,” replied de Anda. “Before we set up this demonstration plant, Atequizayán had no wastewater treatment system of any kind. All their raw sewage went down a canal that, unfortunately, took it straight into La Laguna de Zapotlán.”

Dr. José de Anda
Dr. José de Anda gave up a career in private industry to seek environmentally sound solutions to modern problems.

“What’s special about this approach to treating sewage,” he continued, “is that it doesn’t use energy. We call this a nature-based solution, and we have been working on it for 10 years. It’s a combination of anaerobic processes and a wetland.

“It’s not quite complete, as we set it up only seven months ago and we still need to plant flowers in the wetland, which will absorb the excessive nutrients still present in the treated water, but the system you see right here is already successfully removing most of the carbon compounds contaminating the water.”

De Anda took me on a tour of the facility. We began at one end of the building, where a mixture of sewage and drainage from the town flow through metal grates, which catch rocks, into a sump that traps sand. The raw sewage is then pumped into a septic tank, and from there into a very curious upflow anaerobic filter, or biodigester, which is nothing more than a big container filled with tezontle.

Here, something amazing happens. The fecal matter in the wastewater is removed, using a completely natural system.

Tezontle stone,” explains de Anda, “is very special. It has a vast amount of surface area both inside and outside because it is full of holes. Every cubic meter of tezontle represents close to 300 meters of active surface. And this surface area happens to be the habitat of a lot of bacteria that work in favor of decomposing the contaminants that are in the wastewater.

“So these beneficial bacteria literally catch the contaminants and use them to grow on. Apart from this, tezontle also has the ability to absorb some metals and contaminants. So this volcanic rock is truly extraordinary.”

pile of tezontle
The “constructed wetland” is filled with inexpensive volcanic cinders, known as tezontle in Mexico.

“How frequently do you have to change the tezontle?” I asked him.

“Oh, it keeps on working for years. Once you have things set up, you can rest assured that these scoria rocks will give you service for at least 30 years without the use of any energy to treat the wastewater.”

The biodigester is the place where all this takes place, de Anda told me. Here, the very bacteria that we have in our own digestive system go to work. While the wastewater passes through the biodigester, 70% to 80% of its contaminants will be transformed into environmentally friendly compounds.

“Next,” continued the researcher, “to bring these partially processed aguas negras up to Mexican national standards for purified wastewater, we need a constructed wetland.”

To me, this “constructed wetland” looked very much like an Olympic-size swimming pool, but only 70 centimeters deep and completely filled with volcanic rocks about the size of lemons. It also contains water flowing from the biodigester, of course, but this reaches a maximum height of only 60 centimeters, meaning the carpet of rocks is dry on the surface and you can walk on it without sinking in.

The purification process is completed as the water moves through the rocks, “simply with the help of bacteria found in the environment,” says de Anda.

flowers growing in a pool filled with tezontle and water
Cultivating flowers growing in a pool filled with tezontle and water. Courtesy of de Anda et al

Here, the water will be oxygenated by plants.

“We could use reeds or cattails,” he says, “but we prefer to use ornamental plants like Agapanthus africanus (African lily), Canna indica (Indian shot) or Clivia miniata (natal lily), which have both an aesthetic and a market value.”

A clever gardener, of course, could create a beautiful design here by mixing flowers and colors.

The oxygenated water that flows out of the wetland is crystal clear, smells of tierra mojada (wet earth) and could be used to raise fish or to water corn, sorghum or avocado trees, for example.

The cost of building this facility was about 3 million pesos, an amount similar to the cost of a traditional treatment plant.

“But,” says de Anda, “once you have it, the operating and energy costs are negligible, and you don’t need to hire a rocket scientist to run it.”

water-and-tezontle-filled pool
The surface of the water-and-tezontle-filled pool is dry.

Hopefully, in the coming years, Mexicans will begin to see less water pollution and more Agapanthus across their beautiful country.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for 31 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.

tezontle rock
Tezontle is filled with holes, creating a huge surface area where beneficial bacteria can interact with sewage.
African lilies
African lilies growing at a similar treatment plant outside Guadalajara. courtesy of De Anda et al
scoria cone in Mazatepec, Jalisco
This cinder cone (scoria cone) near Mazatepec, Jalisco is being mined for tezontle, cheap rock for road construction.

Covid roundup: Mexico City remains yellow, México state goes back to yellow

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vaccination site
Vaccinations will be ramped up next week in Mexico City to combat the rising number of new cases.

Mexico City will remain medium risk yellow on the federal government’s coronavirus stoplight map for at least the next week, while neighboring México state will regress to yellow from low risk green.

Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum announced Friday that the capital will remain at the yellow light level between July 19 and 25. Mexico City switched to yellow from green on June 21 and has remained at that risk level since despite an increase in new cases.

Many of the new cases in Mexico City are among young people but the capital has also recorded an increase in infections among people in their 50s and 60s, government official Eduardo Clark said Friday.

He added that the infections were detected in people who are not vaccinated, explaining that about 15% of adults who have had the opportunity to get vaccinated chose not to get a shot. Deaths are still at “relatively low levels,” Clark said.

Sheinbaum said the vaccination process will be ramped up next week, with all Mexico City residents aged 30 and over eligible for a shot as of Tuesday.

“Go get vaccinated, … getting vaccinated is fundamental so you don’t get the disease,” she said.

The mayor said she wasn’t planning to implement any new restrictions. “We’re not aiming to reduce any activities: social, economic or cultural. … The goal is to vaccinate,” she said.

Meanwhile, there are almost 1,900 Covid-19 patients in the city’s hospitals, a rise of about 650 compared to a week ago. There are more than 2,500 hospitalized Covid patients in the broader metropolitan area. Federal data shows that just over half of general care beds set aside for Covid patients in Mexico City are taken while just under 40% of those with ventilators are in use.

Mexico City easily leads the country for coronavirus cases and Covid deaths with more than 720,000 of the former and almost 45,000 of the latter.

México state Governor Alfredo del Mazo announced that his state would regress to yellow on Monday after remaining green since June 7.

“We have to strengthen the preventative measures, let’s not drop our guard,” he wrote on Twitter.

México state, which includes many municipalities that are part of the greater Mexico City metropolitan area, ranks second in the country for cases and deaths with about 270,000 infections and more than 28,000 fatalities.

In other Covid news:

• Mexico’s accumulated case tally rose to 2.64 million on Friday with 12,420 new cases reported, the third day in a row on which new case numbers have exceeded 12,000. The official Covid-19 death toll increased to 236,015 with 275 additional fatalities. There are just over 82,000 active cases across the country, according to Health Ministry estimates. The highly infectious Delta strain is now circulating in many Mexican states and likely driving the high case numbers currently being recorded.

• More than 637,700 Covid-19 vaccination shots were administered on Thursday, Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell announced on Twitter. He said 53.3 million doses have been administered since Mexico’s vaccine rollout began just before Christmas.

About 41% of Mexican adults have had at least one dose of a vaccine, according to Health Ministry data.

• Jessica Ann Olsen, a United States woman who lives in Los Cabos, Baja California Sur (BCS), launched a petition on change.org that calls on Governor Carlos Mendoza Davis to make it compulsory for people entering the state to present a negative Covid-19 test result. The state has recently seen a steep rise in case numbers as the Delta variant of the virus takes hold.

Coronavirus cases and deaths in Mexico as reported by day
Coronavirus cases and deaths in Mexico as reported by day. milenio

The petition, which has a goal of attracting the support of 10,000 people, had  just over 9,200 signatures at 5:00 p.m. Friday.

“Enough already! The government has to act and protect our state with negative Covid tests to enter … BCS. Proof of vaccination is not enough as it doesn’t guarantee that we’re not going to get infected with the [new] strains and/or we could be carriers and a risk to vulnerable people,” says the petition, which appears doomed to failure.

Health Minister Víctor George Flores said the state doesn’t have the legal authority to require incoming travelers to show negative Covid test results, explaining that the decision is one for the federal government, which appears unlikely to set new travel restrictions.

• Two crematoriums in Los Cabos are overwhelmed with bodies of deceased Covid-19 patients, the newspaper Milenio reported. The crematoriums were inspected by Baja California Sur health officials after they received complaints about excessive black smoke from residents in the Ejidal and Arsenal neighborhoods in Cabo San Lucas.

“Corpses are lined up waiting to be cremated,” said health regulator chief Iván Núñez, adding that both inspected crematoriums were complying with regulations but were saturated with bodies.

• Mexicans spent US $325 million to travel to the United States to get vaccinated against Covid-19 between March and May, according to estimates by the Center of Research and Tourism Competitiveness at Mexico City’s Anáhuac University.

More than 900,000 Mexicans traveled to the U.S. in that period and the center’s director, Francisco Madrid, believes that a good number of them headed north to get vaccinated.  A comparatively slower vaccination rollout encouraged Mexicans of means to skip the queue here and travel to the U.S. to get a jab.

Florida, Nevada and California were among the most visited states by Mexicans who got vaccinated in the United States, where vaccines are widely available.

• The Pacific coast resort town of Puerto Escondido is facing a coronavirus outbreak that has left oxygen tanks in short supply. A growing number of people are seeking medical attention in public and private health care facilities, the newspaper El Imparcial reported. The majority of the cases are among young people, who are more likely not to be vaccinated.

El Imparcial also reported that 15 workers at the Puerto Escondido General Hospital, including medical personnel, have Covid-19, a situation that brought the hospital to “the brink of collapse.”

The health workers would have presumably been inoculated against Covid-19 at the start of Mexico’s vaccine rollout.

El Imparcial said that if coronavirus patients continue arriving at the general hospital at the current pace, the facility “will have to close its doors because there won’t be personnel in optimal health conditions” to attend to them.

• The Isthmus of Tehuantepec region of Oaxaca is also facing a large coronavirus outbreak that has left oxygen tanks in short supply. As demand has soared, so too have prices. A 10-liter tank with all the necessary accessories costs approximately 13,500 pesos (US $680) pesos in the Isthmus region but finding one for sale is not easy. Filling it costs about 1,300 pesos (US $65), up from approximately 1,000 pesos (US $50) a year ago.

“I sold my pickup truck so I could buy three [oxygen] tanks and medicine for three uncles, farm men, who got infected and died one after the other between June 1 and 3. Don’t go out, look after yourself,” one Isthmus region woman said.

With reports from Milenio, El Financiero, El Imparcial, El Universal and Reforma 

The southern melting pot: Mexico has also welcomed many needing refuge

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Children in El Nacimiento, Coahuila
Children in El Nacimiento, Coahuila, an enclave of Mexicans descended from U.S. slaves who escaped to Mexico.

Last month, during a joint press conference with his Spanish counterpart, Argentina President Alberto Fernández said, “Mexicans come from the indigenous, Brazilians come from the jungle and Argentinians come from the ships.”

This statement upset Mexicans — and I am pretty sure Brazilians too — for many different reasons. Some Mexicans were upset because they don’t like to be reminded of their indigenous roots. Others were angry because it confirmed their belief that Argentines are too big for their britches and don’t want to be considered Latin Americans. Still others just had a good laugh at all the memes that came out of this incident.

I was not offended at all. Fernández’s statement is partially true after all: most of us have some degree of indigenous DNA; that is just a fact. The part that gave me some trouble was the oversimplification of what constitutes a modern Mexican.

Not acknowledging the history and the contributions of the different immigrants who came (and keep coming) to Mexico throughout its history is a terrible historical oversight. Official history books in Mexican public schools condense the story of who the modern Mexican is to a basic explanation: a native Aztec had a child with a bearded Spanish conquistador, and that is it.

There is much more, so let me take you through a quick and humble recap some of the most well-known immigrant inflows into Mexico.

Salvador Gutierrez of Chipilo, Puebla
Salvador Gutierrez of Chipilo, Puebla, is descended from 19th-century immigrants from the Veneto region of Italy. Joseph Sorrentino

Lebanese immigrants first arrived in Mexico during the last decades of the 19th century. Some were running away from the religious oppression of the Ottoman Empire. Others were just looking for a better life for their families.

The Lebanese diaspora rapidly integrated into their new land, and within a few generations their descendants thrived in Mexico.

Among the most prominent Mexicans with Lebanese heritage are ex-president Plutarco Elias Calles — known as “El Turco”— as well as former minister of energy Antonio Meade-Kuribeña. There are also the businessmen Carlos Slim and Alfredo Harp, as well as actors Salma Hayek, Mauricio Garces and Demián Bichir (you might need to ask a Mexican friend about those last two). In the world of sports, there is soccer’s Miguel Layún and boxing kingpin Jose Sulaiman.

But Lebanese Mexicans are not just an ethereal group of successful and beautiful celebrities; not all of them made it to the top of Mexican society. Some of them became just normal middle-class Mexicans who did not marry within the Lebanese diaspora. Growing up, it was fairly common for me to have classmates or professors with Lebanese last names but no other trace of their Lebanese heritage or customs.

American celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain once said that Mexico is the U.S.’s brother from another mother. In some cases in my elementary school in Ciudad Juárez, this was literally true. When you think about American immigration to Mexico, you might imagine thousands of snowbirds looking for sunny weather in Ajijic, Chapala, Oaxaca, Puerto Vallarta, or San Miguel de Allende, but American immigration into Mexico is not that simple — nor always pretty.

The first American immigrants to Mexico were the ones who accompanied Stephen Austin to Texas when it was still Mexico, but let’s skip that part because it gets controversial.

Carlos Slim in Lebanon 2010
In 2010, Mexican business magnate Carlos Slim visited his family’s ancestral hometown in south Lebanon.

During the painful moment in American history known as Indian Removal, some American Indians of the Kikapoo and of Florida’s Seminole tribes took a detour south. These groups ended up establishing themselves in the northern state of Coahuila, where the Mexican government gave them concessions and land to populate the northern border and deter further expansionist attempts from the north.

Part of this group were black Seminoles, called the Mascogos after they settled in Mexico. These were escaped slaves who had previously disappeared into Seminole Indian groups. Right after the secession of Texas from Mexico, thousands of slaves, especially those in the south of Texas area, also looked for freedom in Mexico, where slavery was illegal.

Later, during the last decades of the 19th century, Mexican president Porfirio Díaz adopted a policy to attract immigrants to populate uninhabited regions of the country (word on the street is that there was preference for white settlers), and many Americans took this opportunity to come to Mexico to establish mining companies, machinery stores, railroad suppliers and other heavy industries.

But it does not stop there: another important influx of American immigrants came to Mexico in the late 1800s: a group of Americans from the Mormon church founded a town near what is now Nuevo Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. An interesting fact about this “colony” is that it is where George Romney — governor of Michigan in the 1960s and Mitt Romney’s father — was born.

The contributions of American immigrants are palpable in Mexico: a long list of prominent Mexicans with U.S. heritage — such as former president Vicente Fox and congressman Santiago Creel, companies established by Mexican-Americans and towns and products in Mexico bearing histories intertwined with American immigrants.

The bond between Americans and Mexicans is strong and goes beyond commerce, politics or immigration. If you are interested in reading more about this, you can read more in one of my older columns.

Alexander von Humboldt
Alexander von Humboldt, painted by Joseph Karl Stieler. Wikimedia Commons

When German explorer Alexander Von Humboldt returned to Berlin in 1827 after extensive exploration of Latin America, he described Mexico City as elegant as Turin or Milan. This over-romanticized description of the city, and the mysticism with which he described the country, attracted the first German settlers to Mexico.

Later on, thanks to Porfirio Díaz’s modernization plans and open immigration policies, many Germans came here to work as public lightning technicians, engineers and specialized labor.

One of these specialized labor immigrants was Frida Kahlo’s father, Guillermo Kahlo (originally Wilhelm) , who came to Mexico in the late 19th century and was one of the Díaz regime’s official photographers.

In 1922, another big wave of German immigrants came to Mexico, when president Álvaro Obregón gave a set of concessions to a group of Mennonites to settle in the northern state of Chihuahua. The influence of this group in my home state was so wide that Mennonite products became staple items in many Chihuahuans’ diet.

Then, during the Second World War, just like in other countries of Latin America, many German Jews escaping the Nazi regime found opened doors in Mexico.

German immigrants are manifest in many areas of Mexican life. For example, it is sometimes difficult to differentiate Bavarian music from an Old School northern Mexican redova.

Redova norteña is difficult to distinguish from the music of Bavaria.

 

Hernán Cortés and his crew, of course, arrived in Mexico in 1519, establishing the colony of New Spain. During three centuries of colonization, the Spanish mingled with the natives and, thus, we mestizos were born.

But Spanish immigration into Mexico did not end with Mexico gaining its independence. The first important wave of Spanish immigrants to Mexico after the end of New Spain, happened during the presidency of Porfirio Díaz and his open immigration policy to populate the vast unpopulated regions of Mexico, the policy that brought many immigrant groups.

Many poor Spanish farmers who came to Mexico looking for new opportunities established themselves mostly in the states of Jalisco and Durango. During the second half of the 19th century and all through early 20th century, Mexico became one of the biggest hosts of Spanish immigrants and refugees.

Among these refugees were thousands of Sephardic Jews rescued by Mexican diplomat Francisco Bosques during the Second World War.

Also during this same period, Mexico opened its doors to Spanish refugees fleeing Spanish dictator Francisco Franco. Among these refugees were the “children of Morelia,” a group of thousands of unaccompanied minors sent alone to Mexico and welcomed in the city of Morelia.

The legacy of these last immigrants in Mexico can be seen in businesses and institutions founded by them, such as the Hospital Español in Mexico City, the publisher Editorial Porrua, Bimbo (the biggest commercial bakery in the world), Churreria El Moro (maker of churros), the Mundet beverage company, the Soriana supermarket chain and many others.

Unaccompanied refugee boys from Spain arriving in Veracruz in 1937
Unaccompanied refugee boys from Spain fleeing the Spanish Civil War, arriving in Veracruz in 1937, on route to Morelia.

Mexico has Italian immigrants as well. When I lived in Milan, I came across an invitation to celebrate the Veneto language of the town of Segusino. I learned that their dialect of the language is only spoken in this small town and in its sister city of Chipilo, Puebla.

Like other immigrant groups, Italians came to Mexico mostly during Porfirio Díaz’s presidency. During those years, according to some Italians in Segusino, an invitation from the Mexican government to white, northern, Catholic Italians (the racism in line with the times) to come to live in Mexico somehow made it to the Veneto region.

These first Italians in Mexico established vanilla and dairy farms in Veracruz and Puebla and later moved to Chipilo, a town still famous in Mexico for its good cheese, pizza, and gelato.

This is just a sampling of the different immigration waves that reached Mexico. There are others — such as the Greeks, Chinese, French and Russians in Tijuana and the escaped African slaves in Oaxaca and Veracruz. Also, thousands of immigrants and refugees keep coming to Mexico from Cuba, Haiti, Venezuela, Honduras and many other countries.

Mexico is a diverse country, and it is has always been an immigrant destination. Genetics are so unpredictable here that almost every family has that kid that looks different and ends up with a nickname based on their looks, such as el güerito (light skinned or blonde), el canelo (“cinnamon-colored”), la rubia (also for blondes), and others designating their country of descent — el chino, el ruso, etc).

If you meet a Mexican who does not fit your concept of what a Mexican is supposed to look like, please don’t tell them that they don’t look Mexican; that is not a compliment — let’s shake off our stereotypes.

Greek Mexicans celebrating Greek Independence Day in Mexico City.
Greek Mexicans celebrating Greece’s Independence Day in Mexico City.

Mexico is a melting pot, a melting pot of chile con carne, to which we keep adding spicy ingredients.

Alvaro Amador Muniz describes himself as a Rednexican who hails from Ciudad Juárez, an adopted Tennessean, an amateur historian and an average basketball player currently living in Costa Rica. He can be contacted at [email protected] or via Twitter @AlvaroAmadorM.

Government announces plans to build world’s 8th-largest solar farm in Sonora

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Enel's solar farm in Coahuila, currently the largest in Mexico.
Enel's solar farm in Coahuila, currently the largest in Mexico.

The federal government’s antagonism toward renewable energy – which is mainly generated in Mexico by privately-owned projects – appears to be waning.

Along with the Sonora government, it is in the early stages of planning the construction of the world’s eighth largest solar farm, which could be located near Puerto Peñasco.

The US $1.68-billion, 1,000-megawatt project would be a joint venture between the state-owned Federal Electricity Commission (CFE) and the Sonora government. The former would take a 54% share, the latter 46%.

President López Obrador, who has been critical of private renewable companies that operate in Mexico, gave his blessing to the project this week.

If built, the plant will have a capacity one-third greater than that of the 754-megawatt solar farm operated by the Italian company Enel in Coahuila, which is currently Mexico’s largest and occupies 2,400 hectares. It will significantly increase CFE’s solar capacity as the state-owned utility only has very minimal solar assets.

Sonora governor-elect Alfonso Durazo said Tuesday that there is a 2,000-hectare property in the municipality of Puerto Peñasco where the new facility could be located. He met with López Obrador and others from CFE and the Finance Ministry this week to discuss the proposal.

The president’s support for the project comes as something of a surprise as he has championed the ongoing use of fossil fuels and denigrated the value of renewables. In addition, the government has adopted a hostile attitude toward renewable companies already operating or seeking to operate in Mexico, a move that has triggered extensive legal action against it.

Sunny Sonora appears on the surface to be a good location to build a new solar facility – some 20% of Mexico’s 7,000-megawatt installed capacity is located there – but there is already ample electricity supply in the state, making it an unwise choice for additional investment, according to two energy experts who spoke with the newspaper El País.

“There is so much generation capacity in the northwest that if you build a [new solar] park, … the return on the investment will take a very long time, with little income,” said Víctor Ramírez.

“Sonora is not the place that needs more investment. It’s needed more in Baja California, Yucatán or the Bajío, where there is constantly growing demand [for electricity] and insufficient supply,” said Casiopea Ramírez, spokesperson for the Mexican Solar Energy Association.

For his part, Durazo said that energy could be supplied from the solar farm to Baja California, which borders Sonora in the north but is mostly separated from it by the Gulf of California.

Ramírez rejected any suggestion that the announcement of a new solar farm represented an environmental awakening for the federal government.

“It’s an idea that seeks to change the government’s narrative but it seems to me to be more of a political issue [than an environmental one],” he said.

It is unclear when construction of the solar farm might begin and when it could be expected to begin operations.

With reports from El País 

New wave of Haitian migrants in Tapachula; 2,000 applied Monday for asylum

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Migrants line up to apply for asylum in Tapachula, Chiapas.
Migrants line up to apply for asylum in Tapachula, Chiapas.

A new wave of Haitian migrants has arrived in Tapachula, Chiapas, in the days since the country’s president was assassinated.

Some 2,500 Haitians have applied for asylum in Mexico in the past 10 days, according to the Mexican Commission for Refugee Assistance (Comar). The commission received more than 2,000 applications from Haitians on Monday alone.

“Normally 200 or 300 people arrive on Mondays to seek asylum … but 2,000 arrived this week. Those photos you’re seeing show the presence of 2,000 Haitians,” Comar chief Andrés Ramírez told a press conference.

“These photos … are not from Rwanda or Angola, … it’s Mexico, it’s Tapachula and they’re from Monday,” he said, acknowledging that last week’s events in Haiti could further “complicate the situation.”

Haitian President Jovenel Moïse was assassinated in the early hours of July 7, an event that triggered significant unrest in the Caribbean nation and is predicted to lead to a new exodus of asylum seekers.

Migrants cross the Suchiate River between Mexico and Guatemala.
Migrants cross the Suchiate River between Mexico and Guatemala.

Most of the Haitians already in Tapachula likely left their homeland before the assassination occurred, and some have been stranded in the city for months. Thousands more Haitian migrants have arrived in Mexico in recent years, typically via South American and Central American countries, and some have settled in Mexico, especially in Tijuana.

Although many of the Haitians currently in Chiapas are likely to attempt to seek asylum in the United States sometime in the future, many who spoke with the newspaper Milenio said they hoped to remain in Mexico, which has become a destination rather than transit country for an increasing number of migrants.

“Here we have the dream of having freedom and getting ahead, there’s no violence, we’re poor but calm,” said Jean Passé, a migrant originally from Port-au-Prince.

“… I left Haiti in December and [then] I was in the Dominican Republic. We paid to arrive by boat to Nicaragua then I was in Honduras, Guatemala and now I’m in Mexico, Tapachula. More friends and family are coming from [Haiti] because it’s more difficult there now because of the death of Moïse,” he said.

The 28-year-old said he is a qualified nurse but couldn’t find work at home. He also noted that Haiti is plagued by violence and poverty – and now great political uncertainty. A powerful earthquake in 2010 also wreaked havoc on the nation of some 11 million people.

María Leonard said that she originally planned to seek asylum in the United States or Canada. However, she now has her sights set on Tijuana.

“We have almost no money, the [bureaucratic] procedures are slow – I’ve been here in Tapachula three months and I still haven’t got the official papers to travel to Tijuana, that’s where I want to live, I have two family members and a friend there, that’s my destination now …” Leonard said.

Citing what they see as a tough United States immigration policy, other Haitians who spoke with Milenio also said they intended to remain in Mexico.

For now, life in Tapachula – located just north of the border with Guatemala – is not easy for the migrants. Many live in crowded conditions in cheap, basic rooms far from the downtown area of the medium-sized city where many of the services are located. Others bed down in migrant shelters, or in a park or the street if they’re full.

There are also large numbers of Cubans and Hondurans, meaning that the lines at Comar and United Nations Refugee Agency offices are invariably long. Observation of social distancing recommendations and the use of face masks is often lax, Milenio reported, and scuffles between migrants have been reported.

To alleviate crowding at Comar offices and the inherent risk of coronavirus infection, the commission’s Chiapas delegate, Alma Cruz, announced that asylum seekers can now initiate their claims online. She also said that Comar is aiming to speed up the process.

Ramírez, the Comar chief, said a new record for asylum applications will be set in Mexico this year. More than 51,600 were accepted to the end of June, just 20,000 short of the full year record of just over 70,000 set in 2019.

Almost 10,000 asylum applications have been filed by Haitians in Mexico this year. Only Hondurans have filed more.

With reports from Milenio, El País and EFE

Extradition delay is response for Mexico supporting Palestine: Israeli official

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Tomás Zerón
Tomás Zerón is wanted by Mexican authorities for torture and other crimes.

A request to Israel for the extradition of a former official accused of compromising the investigation into the disappearance of 43 students in Guerrero in 2014 is being delayed as punishment for Mexico’s support of Palestine, says a senior Israeli official.

Mexico has requested the extradition of Tomás Zerón, head of the now-defunct Criminal Investigation Agency during the 2012-2018 government of former president Enrique Peña Nieto. He is accused of abduction, torture and tampering with evidence in the investigation into the September 2014 disappearance of the Ayotzinapa rural teachers college students, all of whom were presumably killed.

Zerón, who has lived in Israel since September 2019 and is seeking asylum there, is also accused of embezzlement of public resources to the tune of US $50 million in a separate case. He has denied all charges against him, saying they are politically motivated.

Israel has not publicly commented on Zerón’s case but an unnamed senior official who spoke with The New York Times said Mexico’s extradition request is being delayed as part of a “tit-for-tat diplomacy” strategy initiated by former Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu to penalize countries that oppose Israeli policies.

Mexico has supported United Nations investigations into allegations of war crimes committed by Israel against Palestinians. The country’s ambassador to Israel was recently summoned by the Israeli Foreign Ministry to explain why Mexico had voted in favor of a UN probe into alleged Israeli violations of international humanitarian law during intense fighting in the Middle East in May.

Zerón and former attorney general Jesús Murillo
Zerón and former attorney general Jesús Murillo, key figures in the Ayotzinapa investigation.

“Why would we help Mexico?” said the senior official who spoke with the Times on the condition of anonymity. The official also said there may be merit in Zerón’s claim for asylum in Israel.

“Just as Mexico is punishing Israel for crimes it did not commit, the official said, it may be prosecuting Mr. Zerón for political reasons,” the Times report said.

Deputy Interior Minister for Human Rights Alejandro Encinas rejected any claim that the case was politically motivated.

“What political persecution?” he remarked in an interview with the Times. “There is a video that’s public where this guy is torturing someone and threatening him with death. And that’s not a matter of speculation or political persecution of anyone.”

Mexico doesn’t have an extradition treaty with Israel but Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard said earlier this year that there is “a legal cooperation and assistance understanding derived from international agreements that both countries have signed.”

“… Both countries are obliged to act as if there was an extradition treaty when there are crimes … that go against human rights,” he said.

Ebrard said there is a “well-founded” torture accusation against Zerón and Israel is aware of it.

There is a video on YouTube showing the former investigator participating in the interrogation of a member of the gang that allegedly abducted the 43 students and threatening him with death.

The investigation led by Zerón into the disappearance of the students was discredited by a panel of international experts. They concluded that torture was used to obtain testimony, evidence was not handled properly and promising leads were disregarded.

The current federal government also repudiated the former government’s so-called “historical truth” – that the students were intercepted by corrupt municipal police in Iguala and handed over to a local crime gang, the Guerreros Unidos, whose members killed them, burned their bodies in a dump and scattered their ashes in a nearby river.

It launched a new investigation into the students’ disappearance and is expected to present its conclusions in September.

Kate Doyle, director of the Mexico Project at the Washington-based National Security Archive, told the Times that the families of the missing students – the remains of just three have been found and positively identified – won’t have answers until Zerón can be questioned by authorities.

“Zerón is part of a conspiracy of silence,” she said. “It’s a conspiracy that for almost seven years has prevented 43 families from knowing true facts about their sons’ disappearance. And until Zerón is called to account, the silence will persist, and the fate of the boys will remain a mystery.”

With reports from El Universal and The New York Times 

In defense of La Malinche: specialists urge taking a new look at Cortés’ consort

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La Malinche and Cortés
La Malinche and Cortés: she was a complex woman with a fundamental role in events that took place 500 years ago.

La Malinche – the indigenous woman who was an interpreter, advisor and companion to Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés – has been treated unfairly by history, and the role she played in Mexico’s past should be reevaluated with justice and greater historical knowledge, according to some experts.

A panel of specialists who appeared on a television program hosted by outspoken senator and thespian Jesusa Rodríguez defended La Malinche – also known as Malintzin, Malinalli and Doña Marina – as a “brave woman who was placed in an adverse situation and who, contrary to what has been said about her, cannot be described as a traitor,” the newspaper Reforma said in a report published Thursday.

Yelitza Ruiz, a lawyer and writer, said that Cortés’s young companion – an enslaved woman given to the Spanish by natives of Tabasco – has been subjected to hostility, slander and libel over the years, adding that other prominent women in Mexico’s history have received the same unfair treatment.

La Malinche, born circa 1500 near Mexico’s Gulf coast in modern day Veracruz state, has long been associated with treason and servility given that she helped the Spanish conquistadores in their quest to subjugate the land now known as Mexico. There is even a Mexican term derived from her name to refer to a person who favors people and things from a foreign culture over those from their own – malinchista.

Linguist and writer Yásnaya Aguilar told Thursday’s program that official versions of history have attempted to minimize the role Malintzin played in the events that ensued after Cortés and other Spaniards arrived in Mexico in 1519. Many historians have concluded that her linguistic and diplomatic skills were crucial to the Spaniards’ successful conquest.

la malinche
A 19th-century illustration of the advisor, interpreter and companion to Hernán Cortés.

“The memory that is kept of her in other spaces that are not spaces of official history allow us to see a complex woman, a woman who was in extraordinary circumstances and who had a fundamental role in what happened 500 years ago,” Aguilar said.

“The only way in which we can call her ‘traitor,’ as she has historically been called, is to think that the Mexico of today is Tenochtitlán [the capital of the Aztec empire upon which Mexico City was founded] and that’s not the case. The identification of contemporary Mexico with just one of the cities of that time, Tenochtitlán, is to oversimplify what happened,” Aguilar said.

The Spanish troops led by Cortés conquered Tenochtitlán in 1521. La Malinche, who spoke both Chontal Maya and Náhuatl, traveled to the city with the conquistadores and acted as an interpreter along the way. She would later give birth to Cortés child, Martín “el mestizo” (the mixed race one), although she married another Spaniard, Juan Jaramillo.

Historian Federico Navarrete said history has portrayed La Malinche as a lesser person than Cortés and not fully acknowledged her linguistic and other talents.

“We’ve built this whole romantic legend about Cortés and Malintzin but I believe that does nothing more than subordinate her to Cortés and convert him into a typical disagreeable male who leaves her behind and throws her in the trash – she’s turned into a disposable person and that’s not Malintzin at all if we look at her history,” he said.

With reports from Reforma 

Church in honor of soccer star Diego Maradona opens its doors in Puebla

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Inside Puebla's new Maradonian church.
Inside Puebla's new Maradonian church.

A pair of large vases bearing soccer balls stands at the entrance to Mexico‘s first Maradonian church, a tribute to Diego Maradona, where an image of the Argentine soccer star wearing a charro hat welcomes worshippers.

Inside the church, the Catholic Stations of the Cross are recreated with photos of Maradona from his childhood to emblematic meetings with the late Cuban leader Fidel Castro and Pope Francis.

The church in the city of Puebla, which opened on July 7, celebrates the “religion” created in Argentina in 1998 by admirers of the late soccer player.

The Maradonian religion has spread to several countries around the world and has more than half a million followers.

“My Mom and Dad, who are Catholics, say it’s crazy,” said Andrea Hernández, a 22-year-old soccer player, during a visit to the Maradonian church adorned with posters of Maradona, who played for clubs in Spain and Italy.

maradonian church
Pedestrians walk by the new church in Puebla city.

“But for us, those of us who like soccer, it is very nice that Maradona can have such recognition in Mexico.”

Maradona, who died in November 2020 shortly after celebrating his 60th birthday, achieved soccer glory after winning the 1986 World Cup in Mexico, which crowned him one of the best players of all time.

Marcelo Buchet, who opened the church, said it was a place “where we can talk about soccer.”

“It is not like going to another church, sitting down and listening,” said Buchet.

“Here you are part of everything. People have accepted this and they are very happy. I have seen people cry, people throw themselves at his picture, pray. I feel much better that I’m not the only crazy one.”

Reuters

Army takes in street dogs at site of Mexico City’s new airport

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The army's dog shelter at Santa Lucía.
The army's dog shelter at Santa Lucía.

An unoccupied kindergarten building has been transformed into a shelter for street dogs near the new Mexico City international airport, under construction in Zumpango de Ocampo on the outskirts of Mexico City.

The Doggies of Santa Lucía shelter, run by the army, was set up after the airport’s architects and workers noticed a large number of stray dogs wandering near the construction site.

The shelter can host up to 50 dogs that will receive medical attention, food and shelter.

“The shelter’s objective is to give the dogs a temporary home and to adapt them to live with humans and other dogs so they can be adopted by a family,” said Second Lieutenant Carla Medellín, a veterinarian.

Not all dogs that arrive at the shelter are intended for adoption. Specialists and veterinarians will also look for dogs that can work at the Santa Lucía airport by detecting Covid-19 patients or even drugs.

“Dogs can help us as medical alert dogs. They can detect cancer, hypertension, early diabetes or Covid-19,” said Pamela Díaz, an architect at the airport. “Mainly at the airport, they will provide a way of carrying out fast tests.”

Reuters