The best weekend getaways from Puerto Vallarta are classics for a reason. Everyone loves Sayulita for its bohemian beach vibes, while the mountain village of San Sebastian de Oeste wows travelers with its cooler climates and misty mountain views. But my favorite way to escape the buzzy (beloved) chaos of Puerto Vallarta is to drive about four hours down the coast to the spectacular Costalegre for the perfect weekend escape.
The Costalegre is heaven on earth. Nearly 200 miles of undeveloped Pacific shoreline unfold between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. Epic waves thunder down onto golden beaches while pumas and jaguars slink through the thick, muggy jungle. Small villages spring up and down Highway 200 — places where you’ll find very few tourists and where little has changed in daily life over the decades.
This isn’t to say that the Costalegre isn’t growing. New resorts are opening up, and there is getting more and more press — much to the chagrin of Costalegre diehards, including myself. And yes, I recognize the hypocrisy in writing about it now. But because I love it here so much, I want others to love it and spend time here correctly. So, without further ado, this is my insider’s guide to the perfect weekend in Costalegre.
Thursday
Fly into Puerto Vallarta International Airport and rent a car. I like to make all my reservations with Gecko Rent-A-Car. The prices here are a little higher for a daily rate, but the customer service is outstanding. All the cars are in excellent condition, and all the prices are provided upfront and include all the necessary insurance. You’ll never be surprised by any extra fees. The company even offers complimentary airport pickup and drop-off. Of course, if you are loyal to another car rental service, Puerto Vallarta has many other international car rental companies like Hertz, Budget, and Enterprise.
After picking up your car, you are ready to drive the four hours to Barra de Navidad, which is at the end (or the beginning, depending on how you look at it) of the Costalegre. Don’t worry about missing anything along the way — you’ll be backtracking to see all the sights once you arrive.
Barra de Navidad has a handful of hotel options. The “fanciest” is the Grand Isla Navidad Resort, which is on the peninsula that helps frame the lush, wildlife-filled lagoon. For something more boutique and on the beach, Villa Star of the Sea is on an open stretch of beach in the bordering state of Colima, about a 25-minute drive from Barra de Navidad. You can also find funky short-term rentals if you want to stay directly in town.
Friday
Morning
Wake up early to take advantage of the (slightly) less humid morning. Days can get hot along the Costalegre, especially if you’re visiting between April and October. That said, this is the greenest time of year to visit when the mountains and fields are popping with every shade of jade and emerald.
Grab a light breakfast in the brightly colored courtyard of Mango Cafe. The pancakes with blueberry compote are insane. Or you can have the hearty molletes or chilaquiles. Don’t skip a fresh fruit smoothie, too.
Afterward, head over to the Malecon, where you’ll find many people offering boat rides around the lagoon. The lush lagoon is cushioned between mountains and the Pacific Ocean, with a soundtrack of sputtering fishing boats and the calls of migratory birds. It’s a beautiful way to get acquainted with Barra de Navidad and the tropical scenery of southern Jalisco.
Afternoon
When you return from your cruise, it will be just in time for lunch. I recommend Mariscos Chicha for waterfront dining. Or, if you are hankering for some seriously good fish tacos, you can find incredible ones near the Abarrotes Arce grocery store. A simple sign that says “Fish Tacos” will point you toward succulent fish, shrimp, and octopus tacos.
Evening
Hop back in the car for the 10-minute drive over to the sister village, Melaque. Melaque is much smaller than Barra de Navidad, but has arguably more beautiful beaches, in my opinion. Walk along the broad crescent-shaped shoreline and stop at one of the many beachfront bars for a cold drink.
For dinner, grab a front-row seat at Albatros Restaurant & Bar for sunset and live music. Many of the beachfront restaurants in Melaque close their kitchens early, but Albatros stays open well into the evening.
Saturday
Morning
After breakfast, you’ll hit the road to check out some of the other rugged and naturally beautiful beach towns along the Costalegre. About 30 minutes north of Barra de Navidad are the broad, sweeping beaches of Tenacatita Bay. This jewel of a beachfront sits at the end of a very long, jungle-shrouded road that passes through a few smaller communities. Tenacatita Bay is famous for its clear waters, snorkeling, kayaking, and paddle boarding.
Late Morning
After an active morning, drive to La Manzanilla, another small (but funky) beach town on the other side of the bay. La Manzanilla is famous for its wildlife, particularly the crocodile sanctuary, where you can see these prehistoric creatures up close. Grab lunch at the beachfront Bahia Azul for heaping scoops of guacamole and colorfully fresh ceviche.
Afternoon
You can keep the theme low-key and head to Boca de Iguana, another undeveloped and pristine beach, or you can treat yourself to a little luxury. The ultra-luxe Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo is between La Manzanilla and Tenacatita Bay and a splurge-worthy treat for an afternoon spa treatment. Stay for sunset and have dinner at their stunningly beautiful open-air, oceanfront Sal restaurant.
Sunday
Morning
It’s time to depart, sadly. But Sunday is still filled with enough adventure to enjoy your final hours along the Costalegre.
Begin the drive north from Barra de Navidad. Stop in the small beachfront village of Perula for a final oceanfront seafood lunch. Mariscos Chee Chee is the best in town for its quiet corner of the beachfront, friendly service, and beautiful views of Chamela Bay.
Afternoon
As you get closer to Puerto Vallarta, you can stop at the town of El Tuito, a mountain town in the Sierra Madres about an hour outside of Puerto Vallarta. Grab a pick-me-up cup of coffee at Café CabCor. If you have time and energy for sightseeing, you can visit the Galeria Coppelia art gallery.
Late Afternoon
Arrive back in Puerto Vallarta just in time for a final meal and one last sunset. You’ll be spoiled for choice in Puerto Vallarta when it comes to the best restaurants, but for a farewell meal and one final sunset show, I always like to eat at El Barracuda with a table directly on the sand.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
