Borough: Cuauhtémoc
Established: 1907
Location: Bordering the Angel de la Independencia
Pre-Columbian inhabitants: Mexicas
Who lives here
The Colonia Cuauhtémoc retains a strong local character while simultaneously harboring the delights of a typically gentrified neighborhood: there are cafes aplenty, organic markets, yoga studios and wine bars. Alongside them are taco stands, traveling musicians, rug salesmen and produce sold out of the backs of trucks.
In addition to a large population of Mexicans, there is a sizable community of Chinese, Japanese, Lebanese and Venezuelans. It’s also common to hear French, German and Russian spoken here on any given day. The neighborhood draws professionals and families with young children.
A brief history of Colonia Cuauhtémoc
The neighborhood is named after the last ruler of Tenochtitlán, the respected warrior and nephew of Moctezuma II. Unfortunately, Cuauhtémoc inherited an empire under siege by Spanish forces that was simultaneously being ravaged by smallpox. Within a year of beginning his rule, he was captured, tortured and eventually executed in Guatemala by Hernán Cortés. Cuauhtémoc’s legacy of strength and courage lives on and his name was immortalized in 1928 as a Mexico City borough. His statue reigns high over the confluence of Avenida Insurgentes and Paseo de la Reforma.
The area that now forms the Colonia Cuauhtémoc was once part of the Hacienda de la Teja, owned by Augustinian friars between 1577 and 1629. Permission to build an official neighborhood wasn’t obtained until 1874 and in 1907, Cuauhtémoc was formally recognized by the city.
Despite its ideal location, affluent city-dwellers overlooked Cuauhtémoc, so the neighborhood lacks the Art Nouveau mansions typical of La Juárez, just across Reforma. Instead, the zone became a nook for experimental architecture, where designers could play with modern Mexican construction. Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Luis Barragán and Mario Pani all set their sights on Cuauhtémoc, adding to the dynamic range of facades you see today.
A guide to Colonia Cuauhtémoc today
Let’s start with the basics: Cuauhtémoc is both the name of the neighborhood and the borough it’s in, which is why chilangos call it Colonia Cuauhtémoc — to distinguish it from the alcaldía Cuauhtémoc. It’s shaped like a triangle and bordered by Circuito Interior, Paseo de la Reforma and Calle James Sullivan.
The neighborhood is categorized by an eclectic mix of architecture that ranges from modern skyscrapers to avant-garde row houses. However, it’s dominated by residential apartments, both old and new, amid a heavy dose of Japanese establishments. In fact, within the approximate 35 square kilometers that make up Colonia Cuauhtémoc, there are at least eight Japanese restaurants. Many of these establishments are owned by the Edo Kobayashi group, whose collection of sushi restaurants and music bars have garnered Colonia Cuauhtémoc the name “Little Tokyo.”
Wandering the streets, each of which are named after rivers — think Río Hudson, Río Panuco and Río Nilo — you’re less likely to encounter first-time Mexico City tourists. The few that manage to cross to the east side of Reforma are usually in search of Tokyo Music Bar or they’re lost — or looking for the U.S. embassy, which takes up a good chunk of the neighborhood.
Cuauhtémoc is great if you love: A down-to-earth community where everyone has a dog and you can buy an overpriced flat white on one end of the block and 20-peso street tacos on the other.
What to do in Colonia Cuauhtémoc
Museo de la Bolsa Mexicana (MUBO): Stock market nerds! Just when you thought you’d have to live yet another day with no museum to pass the time, the Mexican Stock Exchange Museum pops on your radar! Enlighten yourself with the history and functioning of the Mexican Stock Exchange through interactive exhibits.
Monumento a la Madre: A towering monument dedicated to mothers, where you’re liable to catch a community Zumba class or military march.
Museo Casa de Carranza: The 19th-century house where Mexican Revolution-era leader and president Venustiano Carranza lived in his final six months of life is now a well-preserved museum, showcasing artifacts related to Carranza and the Revolution.
Mariane Ibrahim Gallery: A bold and colorful contemporary art gallery that showcases emerging and established artists, particularly from Africa and its diaspora. The building itself is gorgeous, as is Panúco 36, a delicious lunch spot on the ground floor.
Librería Góngora: A charming independent bookstore known for its extensive collection of literature and art books, literary events and readings and its resident cat.
Vainilla Lola: Need a plant pot? Need something floral to go with it? Pop into this beautiful plant shop for all your gardening needs.
Jardín del Sullivan: The park that borders Cuauhtémoc and San Rafael goes from playground to art fair every Sunday. Adjacent is a huge tianguis with all the fruit, tubers and paint supplies you require for the upcoming week.
Le Cinéma IFAL: Catch a foreign indie flick most days of the week at the French-Latin American Institute’s boutique movie theater.
Casa Pani: The private guesthouse completed by renowned Mexican architect Mario Pani isn’t open to the public, but it’s worth it to stroll past the understated, yet sophisticated, facade.
Somma Wine Bar: The hip vinoteca Cuauhtémoc needed. Stylish wine-lovers regularly flock here for its curated list of Mexican wines and glorified snack menu.
Carlotta Reforma: For the ultimate Mexico City-chic, the Sky Bar on the 38th floor of the Ritz Carlton will have you swooning, both by the breathtaking views of Chapultepec Park and the appropriately sky-high prices.
Tokyo Music Bar: Because it’s on every cliche “48 hours in Mexico City” itinerary for foreigners, I was reluctant to enter the Ginza-inspired speakeasy for a long time. When I caved and went for a delicious Olive Oil Old-Fashioned, the DJ put a Sade record on, and suddenly, I understood in my soul what the fuss was all about.
Where to eat in Colonia Cuauhtémoc
Nice Day Café: Your neighborhood coffee shop, known for its sharp espresso and homemade conchas.
Pâtisserie Mignon: This dreamy, Parisian-style café boasts award-winning pan de muerto and excellent chocolate croissants.
Boudega: For a quick, post-bike ride on Sunday bite, the list of sandwiches and mouth watering cookies at this friendly café just a block from Paseo de la Reforma cannot be beat.
Santo Pozole: It’s made multiple top 10 lists, including CDMX Secreta and Mejores Mexico. Mexico News Daily’s Monica Belot wrote about it on her list of 20 unexpected cravings. The pozole here is some of the city’s best, and hearty enough to fill you up for the foreseeable future.
Yerba Santa: Serving up contemporary Mexican food, this restaurant’s atmosphere is just as lovely as its artful dishes. Grab a spot on the patio and come ready to tackle an extensive breakfast menu.
Cutre Bar: Cutre’s burst into the food scene was fast and furious, grabbing the attention of oyster aficionados and cocktail lovers. Happy hour is always buzzing and fresh seafood is always flowing.
Mamma Ricotta: Time Out México says it’s the best pizza in Mexico City. That’s for you to decide, a discussion best suited for a post-pizza negroni at the seductively-lit bar.
MO+F: Basically a compound of multiple restaurants that include sushi, yakitori, barbeque, Korean, Chinese… that’s not actually all, but you get the picture. Whatever you choose, rest assured your plates will be as authentic as they come.
Rokai: Ramen or sushi, take your pick. Edo Kobayashi’s first Cuauhtémoc establishment showcases a minimalist style – light wood, defined angles, excellent lighting – and quality dishes.
Tacos El Triciclo: I don’t even eat meat and I salivate every time I walk past this place. There is never not a line of hungry patrons pining to devour a lunch of generously-filled tacos topped with an abundance of salsas.
Casa del Fuego: This is the Cuauhtémoc brunch spot par excellence, so there’s always a wait on the weekends. Not to worry, Cucurucho Café is right next door and has the best almond-milk cappuccino in town.
Cafe Acloma: A cute, solid Korean spot that specializes in bulgogi, frita, kimchi and matcha. There’s lots of outdoor seating, mismatched tables and chairs and a friendly owner with a permanent smile on his face.
Pata Negra: Pata Negra is the corner bar that dreams are made of. The music, the people and the vibe is always just right. The kitchen serves up Spanish food, so you can chow down on pan con tomate, tortilla española, pimientos padrones and paella.
El Rey de Comida Libanesa: It’s nothing fancy. In fact, it’s the polar opposite. But I’m convinced the hummus at this Lebanese restaurant is the best in Mexico City, and I challenge you to find one better.
One hidden gem
One of Cuahtémoc’s most memorable experiences is perhaps the most undiscovered. On the serene rooftop of Ryo Kan, a traditional Japanese-style hotel owned by Edo Kobayashi, you can relax for an hour in a bubbly hot tub with a glass of equally-bubbly champagne. And it’s glorious.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
