Driving the length of Baja California is a pilgrimage for road warriors. Some come seeking fish tacos and surf breaks, others for cactus-studded solitude. But if you ask me, the crown jewel of this 760-mile stretch between Tijuana and Cabo isn’t Cabo at all — it’s Bahia Concepcion, an unreasonably gorgeous bay that appears like a mirage about halfway down the peninsula. Framed by Baja’s signature rugged desert, the bay is a series of white-sand coves, craggy outcroppings, and turquoise water that’ll make you forget all about cell service (which, for the record, is spotty at best). And if you’re the kind of traveler who considers an oceanfront parking spot the pinnacle of luxury, you’re in for a treat — because Bahia Concepcion is prime RV camping territory.
Where exactly is this paradise?
Bahia Concepcion stretches about 20 miles down the eastern coast of Baja, just south of Mulegé. If you’re driving from the U.S. border at Tijuana, expect a scenic (and occasionally bone-rattling) 11- to 12-hour journey. Coming from Los Cabos? It’s a solid 10-hour drive north, mostly along the Transpeninsular Highway (Mexico’s Highway 1), where the landscape oscillates between lonely desert, Pacific cliffs, and shimmering Gulf of California vistas. The closest airport is Loreto International Airport, about an hour south, where you can rent a car if you’d rather not put your own suspension through the adventure.
Santa Rosalía: French charm meets Baja grit
Before you reach Bahia Concepcion, you’ll hit Santa Rosalía, an odd but lovable town that feels like Baja and a tiny slice of Normandy had a love child. Once a French-run copper mining hub, Santa Rosalía still sports wooden colonial buildings, a wrought-iron church designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes, that Eiffel), and some of the best baked goods this side of the border, thanks to its still-thriving French bakery, Panadería El Boleo. It’s a great pit stop for fuel — both the car and carb-loading kind — before continuing south.
Mulegé: The Baja town that time forgot
Just south of Santa Rosalía, Mulegé is a palm-filled oasis town tucked along the Mulegé River. With its dusty streets, sleepy cantinas, and a historic mission perched on a hill, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to throw your phone into the sea and never return to “real life.” Here, you can stock up on essentials at the local mercado, grab fish tacos at Asadero Dany’s, and meander through the Mission Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, which dates back to the 18th century. It’s also a great place to grab last-minute supplies before hitting the beaches of Bahia Concepcion. Craving craft beer and a pizza? Mulege Brewing Company is the local bar in town. Grab a seat outside underneath the big Baja sky and catch up with other road warriors who are making the same epic journey.
Playa Santispac: Front-row seats to paradise
Of all the beaches along Bahia Concepcion, Playa Santispac is the quintessential stop. With soft sand, shallow warm water, and ample space for RVs and campers, it’s a favorite among road trippers. Parking right on the beach is the norm here, and for a small fee (usually around 200 pesos per night), you can wake up with your toes practically in the Gulf of California If you’re not the camping type, there are palapa rentals, and for those who prefer their margaritas served with a side of shade, Armando’s, the beachside restaurant, delivers strong drinks and seafood fresh from the bay.
How long does it take to explore the bay?
Driving the coastline of Bahia Concepcion takes about an hour, but let’s be real — you’ll be stopping constantly, either to take photos or to impulsively jump into the water. The bay is lined with small beaches, each with its own character: Playa Coyote is beloved by snowbirds who’ve mastered the art of slow travel, while Playa El Burro is a mix of rustic rentals and one laid-back palapa bar. Playa Escondida (aptly named) requires a little more effort to reach, but is one of the most beautiful beaches you’ll see along the drive.
What to know before you go
- Cash is king. Many places, including the beach camping spots, don’t take credit cards, so bring pesos.
- Cell service is spotty. Embrace the digital detox.
- Stock up in Mulegé. Once you hit the bay, grocery options are minimal, so grab your provisions before heading south.
- Be mindful of tides. Some beaches get a little tight at high tide, so check where you park that RV.
- Bring snorkel gear. The water is ridiculously clear, and you’ll want to take advantage of it.
The drive of a lifetime
Having driven the Baja Peninsula top to bottom and back again, I can say with certainty that Bahia Concepcion is one of those rare places that makes you wonder if you should just stay forever. There’s something about watching the sunrise over the bay, sipping a coffee brewed on a camp stove, and knowing that the hardest decision of the day is whether to nap in a hammock or paddle to a nearby island.
If you’re looking for adventure, solitude, and the kind of off-the-grid beauty that travel dreams are made of, skip the resort scene and head to this wild, wondrous slice of Baja. Just be warned — you may never want to leave.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com
