Borough: Miguel Hidalgo
Established: 1913
Location: 3.5 km southwest of the Angel de la Independencia
Who lives here
The Greenwich Village of Mexico City, San Miguel Chapultepec is equal parts urban artsy and quiet residential. Residents are a truly eclectic mix of middle-class singles and families, with a healthy dose of international expats.
Inhabitants, many in their thirties and forties, push baby carriages past neighbors as they walk their trendy dogs, en route to the organic market or the latest art gallery opening. The famous artist Rufino Tamayo once lived in San Miguel, contributing to the area’s rich cultural heritage.
A brief history of San Miguel Chapultepec
San Miguel Chapultepec has a storied history that dates back to the Mexica, who used the area as a water source for Tenochtitlan. After the Spanish conquest of central Mexico, it was established as a settlement and a chapel dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel was built. The area at this time was part of the village of Tacubaya and characterized by its fertile land and humble living.
As Mexico City expanded through the early 20th century, San Miguel Chapultepec began to urbanize. In 1913, in response to changing social dynamics of the Mexican Revolution, San Miguel Chapultepec became an official neighborhood. As a result, its large estates could be divided and new homes constructed. The zone developed rapidly through modern times, yet a sizable chunk of its original layout still remains intact and acts are in place to protect it.
A guide to San Miguel Chapultepec today
Shady and lovely San Miguel Chapultepec is divided into Sections I and II, together forming the shape of a triangle. It’s hugged by Avenida Constituyentes to the north, Avenida Parque Lira to the west and Circuito Bicentenario and Avenida Jalisco to the east. The zone is known for a blend of historic architecture and creative culture, with galleries and museums in droves. Casa Gilardi and Kurimanzutto have put San Miguel Chapultepec on the map for art lovers, while its relatively sheltered location and community vibe make it attractive to families with young children. Not to mention, the neighborhood brushes up against Mexico City’s largest park, which is conveniently situated just across Avenida Constituyentes.
San Miguel Chapultepec is great if you love: Sundays, because that’s what this neighborhood reminds me of. It’s lazy strolls under leafy streets, unplanned pops into art galleries, brunches with friends and friendly, blue-eyed Australian shepherds. Top it off by purchasing a new kitchen item before a late afternoon glass of wine and bed at 9 p.m.
What to do in San Miguel Chapultepec
Galería de Arte Mexicano (GAM): Founded in 1940, the Galería de Arte Mexicano (GAM) was the first gallery in Mexico dedicated exclusively to Mexican art, showcasing works from renowned artists like Rufino Tamayo and Frida Kahlo. Today, it’s an important promoter of emerging talent.
Kurimanzutto: A contemporary art gallery known for innovative exhibitions featuring both national and international artists, as well as its fashionable crowd of onlookers. Explore its ever-changing collection of modern art showcased through diverse mediums like painting, sculpture, and large-scale installations.
Galería RGR: There’s always something catchy going on inside the whitewashed, laidback art space. Like its neighbors, RGR is focused exclusively on contemporary art. Expect to see work from an eclectic range of artists, both established and emerging, local and international.
Centro Cultural Casa Del Tiempo: Some say the Autonomous Metropolitan University’s cultural center is the most beautiful house on the block. The mansion, which was once home to Miguel Miramón — the general who rebelled against Benito Juárez and was court-martialed alongside Maximilian I — regularly hosts free events promoting humanities and the arts. Check out a film screening or creative exhibition, making sure to pop into the charming bookshop on the ground floor before you go.
Church of Nuestra Señora del Carmen: Perhaps the defining monument of San Miguel Chapultepec’s skyline, the massive-domed church locals affectionately call La Sabatina is relatively new to the scene. It was originally meant for the private garden chapel in a 19th-century home. When that home was later destroyed, the little chapel was converted to a medical dispensary, which it remains to this day. A newer, flashier La Sabatina was built in 1941 and is known for a slightly modern interior dripping in stained glass.
Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel: Even though planning for San Miguel Chapultepec’s most important parish church started in 1891, it took decades to build, largely due to interruptions related to the Mexican Revolution. In 1948 it took the form we see today and while it’s often overlooked in favor of La Sabatina, it remains the religious core of not just the neighborhood, but also 99 churches spread throughout Miguel Hidalgo, Cuajimalpa and Cuauhtémoc.
Casa Gilardi: If a swimming pool in your living room is next on your list of home improvements, don’t break ground until you check out Luis Barragán’s design masterpiece. As expected, his flirtations with light and texture make for an inspiring house tour full of color and expertly-measured lines. Reservations are required and must be made well in advance.
Patricia Conde Galería: Photography nuts are sure to enjoy a spin through Patricia Conde’s minimalist gallery. At present, it is the “only Mexican gallery currently promoting photographic practices” and showcases stunning photo exhibits from both international and Mexican creatives.
Pisotres: The lively shop that sits atop Le Laboratoire art gallery houses a curated selection of artisanal products and contemporary design items. Emphasis is on local craftsmanship, and its range of products reflect the neighborhood’s artistic personality.
Las Canastas: A neighborhood like San Miguel Chapultepec wouldn’t be complete without a cozy little organic supermarket for the health-conscious. In here you can find a variety of items, from candles to soaps to pesticide-free peppers and grass-fed beef. It’s also a nice place to pick up small, but thoughtful, gifts en route to your next dinner party.
Where to eat in San Miguel Chapultepec
Marne Panadería: Does the aroma of freshly baked artisanal breads and pastries captivate you as much as me? If so, this local gem is a place to park, boasting the added benefit of dog watching while sipping on a freshly filtered Oaxacan coffee.
Mari Gold: Mexican-Indian fusion? Yes, please. Chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval crafted a unique menu of seasonal scones, seekh kebabs, and pancakes with passion fruit butter that brunch enthusiasts gobble up with fervor. The space itself is small but bright, inviting both locals from around the corner and visitors from international destinations.
Barrón: This daytime establishment is stylish and vibrant, serving up a mouthwatering fusion of regional flavors in plates that are as tasty as they are pretty. An energetic atmosphere attracts an upbeat, local crowd in search of the neighborhood’s best breakfast.
Casa Rebollar: Casa Rebollar’s colorful dishes are touted as healthy, though with pizza on the menu, I’m not so sure. Regardless, the restaurant is cute and the outdoor dining is charming, as are its Instagram-worthy culinary designs that look almost too delicate to eat.
Madereros: Both an art gallery and culinary adventure, Madereros is the place to go when only steak will do. Enjoy the creative-yet-hearty dishes that chef Mario Espinosa injects with a Mexican flair. The interior alone is worth a visit, its red walls adorned with snappy artwork combine nicely with dark wooden floors and arched brick ceilings.
Brutal Vinata de Barrio: This just might be the perfect wine bar. The crowd is fashionable but chill, the food is creative but recognizable, and the wine list is beyond extensive. From the music to the design, everything about this place is seductive and ideal for a date or some drinks with friends.
One hidden gem
The dreamy garden patio and very Mexican decor inside The Green Park boutique hotel is a perfect floral oasis. Relax over a fresh orange juice in the morning sun after a Sunday bike ride on Paseo de la Reforma.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
