Last year, I wrote about the legend of chile en nogada — and how the beloved tale of its invention to honor Mexico’s independence is, at best, folklore. The story goes that in 1821, when Agustín de Iturbide signed the Treaty of Córdoba, the patriotic nuns of Puebla created a dish in the colors of the new flag: green chile, white walnut sauce, and red pomegranate seeds. It’s a beautiful narrative, one repeated in textbooks and restaurant menus alike.
The truth, however, is messier. Chiles en nogada are older — about 300 years old — and while the dish is undeniably Mexican, it was born of collision, not of independence. The poblano chile is native, of course, but its stuffing is a hybrid of the Old and New Worlds: apples, pears, peaches, almonds, and raisins, fruits and nuts carried across the Atlantic by the Spanish, blended with pork and beef. Even the walnut sauce (nogada), without which the dish would be unthinkable, only exists because of Iberian arrival.
Yet myth or not, nothing feels more patriotic than eating one in September. Mexico’s national month would be unrecognizable without this indulgence.
My own loyalties lie in Puebla, the dish’s birthplace, where chiles en nogada are a matter of both pride and rivalry. The city’s most traditional restaurants — Casa Barroca, Casareyna, and more recently, Custodia — each claim to make the definitive version. I’m partial to the first two. Friends insist Custodia’s rendition is transcendent, though I’ll confess I haven’t tried it since my family moved away from Puebla and my visits became rare.
Still, there’s a particular satisfaction in making the dish yourself. It is, in many ways, the ultimate home ritual: laborious, festive, and deeply rewarding. Below, I offer two versions — one traditional, one vegan — for those who want to bring a taste of Puebla to their September tables.
Traditional Chile en Nogada (Unbattered)
A note: many recipes call for the chiles to be dipped in egg batter and fried. I’ve never liked the result. To me, the coating overwhelms the delicate balance of sweet, savory, and nutty flavors that makes the dish sing. So these versions are unapologetically naked.
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Ingredients (for 4 servings)
Chiles and Filling
- 4 large poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and deveined
- 250 g cooked pork, finely chopped
- 100 g cooked beef, finely chopped
- 1 ripe plantain, fried in small cubes
- 1 panochera apple, diced
- 1 milk pear, diced
- 1 peach, diced
- 80 g blanched almonds, chopped
- 60 g raisins
- 80 g pine nuts
- ½ onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 2 cloves
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Vegetable oil
Nogada (Walnut Sauce)
- 1 cup walnuts, peeled and soaked in cold milk for 2 hours
- ½ cup milk
- 100 g goat cheese (or fresh cheese and cream mix)
- ½ cup Mexican crema
- 1–2 tbsp sugar
- 1–2 tbsp dry sherry or brandy
- Salt to taste
To garnish
- Pomegranate seeds
- Fresh parsley, chopped
Preparation
- Roast the poblanos over open flame until blistered. Place in a plastic bag to sweat, then peel carefully. Make a slit and remove seeds and veins without tearing the chile.
- For the filling: sauté onion and garlic in oil. Add meats, tomatoes, and spices. When the tomato releases its juices, fold in plantain, apple, pear, peach, almonds, pine nuts, raisins. Season and cook until the mixture is dry and cohesive.
- For the nogada: blend soaked walnuts, milk, cheese, crema, sugar, and sherry until smooth. Adjust seasoning. Chill until ready to serve.
- Stuff chiles, arrange on plates, bathe with nogada, and garnish generously with pomegranate and parsley.
Vegan/Vegetarian Chile en Nogada (Unbattered)
Ingredients (for 6 servings)
Chiles and Filling
- 6 large poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, and deveined
- 300 g mushrooms, finely chopped, or cooked lentils
- 1 panochera apple, diced
- 1 milk pear, diced
- 1 peach, diced
- 1 ripe plantain, diced and fried
- 50 g blanched almonds, chopped
- 50 g walnuts, chopped
- 2 tbsp pine nuts
- 60 g raisins
- ¼ white onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
- 1 small guava, diced (optional)
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- Pinch ground clove
- Salt and pepper
- Vegetable oil
Vegan Nogada
- 1 cup walnuts, peeled and soaked in plant-based milk for 2 hours
- 100 g blanched almonds
- 1 small bolillo roll soaked in plant-based milk (optional)
- 1 cup plant-based milk (adjust for consistency)
- 1 tbsp brown sugar or maple syrup
- Splash of dry sherry (optional)
- Salt and pepper
To garnish
- Pomegranate seeds
- Fresh parsley, chopped
Preparation
- Roast poblanos as above.
- For the filling: sauté onion and garlic, then add mushrooms (or lentils) until cooked through. Add tomato, followed by fruits, nuts, and spices. Cook until integrated and slightly dry.
- Blend all nogada ingredients into a smooth sauce, adjusting consistency and seasoning.
- Stuff chiles, plate, cover with cold nogada, and decorate with pomegranate and parsley.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
