In a landmark move to safeguard the legacy of Indigenous artisans, the state government of Oaxaca has launched a process to register and protect the huarache (sandal) designs of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, following allegations of appropriation by sportswear giant Adidas.
Governor Salomón Jara Cruz convened municipal leaders, artisans and representatives from Mexico’s National Copyright Institute (Indautor) on Monday at the government palace in Oaxaca city.
The objective: Start a formal registration process for the designers and brands of Yalálag’s traditional footwear — a craft with a heritage dating back more than a century — and then provide legal support as needed.
“We will always support, preserve and defend our culture,” the governor, who is nearly halfway through his six-year term, said in a Oaxaca state press release. “The people have the final say; state and federal authorities are here to support them.”
During the assembly, the Morena party governor emphasized his administration’s respect for the community’s autonomy and the role these crafts play as both ancestral heritage and a source of livelihood for families.
Prompted by outrage over the newly released Adidas Oaxaca Slip-On shoe, which replicated traditional Zapotec huarache patterns, local artisans and authorities demanded dialogue and accountability from the brand.
“This craft is a livelihood for those who make it,” said Yalálag Mayor Eric Ignacio Fabián. “It’s not for sale. It’s for inheritance, which is why people have raised their voices.”
After last week’s reactions, Adidas and the shoe’s designer, Willy Chavarria, issued public apologies, and Karen Vianey González Vargas, legal and compliance director for Adidas Mexico, agreed to meet with Jara to discuss the issue and repair the damage.
“At Adidas, we deeply value the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous peoples and recognize the relevance of the statement made by your institution,” she said in a statement. “Therefore, with full commitment to engaging in a constructive and respectful process, we respectfully request a virtual meeting with your office … that will allow us to move forward toward repairing the damage to the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag.”
The artisan community, meanwhile, is calling for a national registry to protect cultural heritage and prevent future misappropriation.
For his part, Jara announced plans to create just such a registry, dubbed the State Registry of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican Peoples and Communities, to curb the plagiarism of Oaxacan crafts and products. He urged federal action to bolster these protections.
With reports from Excélsior, El Sol de México, NVI Istmo and XEU Notícias
Other crafts also need protection: tapestry, pottery, sculpture, mezcal….
Bravo for protecting your creative livlihoods and culture