Surfers aren’t usually what comes to mind when you think of someone at the forefront of a culinary trend. But that’s the case with Mexico’s iconic Pacífico beer.
Today this outstanding pilsner-style lager is one of the most popular brews in the world. But Pacífico had been in Mexico for more than 100 years before a twist of fate—and some thirsty California surfers—catapulted it into the international arena. Those humble beginnings are the basis of the brand’s slogan: “Born in Mazatlán, found in Baja, imported by surfers.”
The adventurous surfers not only found good waves but a great local beer, and they loaded up their vehicles with cases of it to bring home. During the 1970s, Pacífico became the legendary drink of choice in the Southern California surf community, but it wasn’t until 1985 that it began to be legally imported to the U.S.
Pacífico’s crisp, refreshing “ocean mist” flavor results from high-quality, specially grown hops and barley and a secret process for roasting its distinctive malts. Serious drinkers might even compare its flavor profile to high-quality German beers—and they’d be correct.
It was a trio of German immigrants in the seaside town of Mazatlán, Sinaloa, who created Pacífico beer. Jorge Claussen, Germán Evers and Emilio Philipy opened Cervecería del Pacífico brewery in 1899 and released the first bottle of Pacífico a year later. The men were so influential and involved in the city that their names still grace some main streets and government buildings today. Pacífico has been a proud sponsor of many of Mazatlán’s annual events for generations, including Carnaval and Moto Week.
They were part of an explosion of immigrants and German-style breweries opening in Mexico from the 19th to early 20th centuries, drawn by the short-lived reign of Austrian archduke Maximilian I of Mexico, an elected president of the equally short-lived Second Mexican Empire. The influx of German immigrants brought with them their love of beer, along with their homeland’s polka music, which transformed into Sinaloa’s famous horn-heavy banda—but that’s another story. Beer would eventually replace pulque as the most popular fermented beverage in Mexico.
The original Pacífico brewery still operates in Mazatlán’s Centro Histórico. Until about 10 years ago it was open to the public for tours that ended in a rooftop tasting room filled with historic photographs and a 360-degree view of the city. Grupo Modelo, which took over the operation in 1954, was bought by beer conglomerate Anheuser-Busch InBev in 2013 and the tours ended.
Mexico-based Grupo Modelo also markets Corona, Negra Modelo and Modelo Especial for export and Victoria, Leon and Montejo brands for domestic consumption. Corona is Mexico’s best-selling beer, and one of the top five most-consumed beers in the world. Pacífico and Corona are both pilsners, with a 4.5% alcohol content but made with slightly different formulas. Today, 80% of imported beers in the U.S. come from Mexico, which exports twice as much beer as any other country.
AB-InBev, the largest beer company in the world, and Heineken N.V. (makers of Tecate) control 90% of the beer market. That rivalry between Pacífico and Tecate drinkers? It’s based on taste and very real.
There’s an urban legend that in Mazatlán beer is cheaper than water. In the case of Pacifico, that’s often true, especially during holidays or big events. Pacifico is available in four sizes: cute little 6 oz. cuartitos, regular 12 oz. medias, tubby 32 oz. ballenas, and the so-big-you-have-to-see-it-to-believe-it 1.2 liter-ballenóns. (Today’s Spanish lesson: ballena means whale; ballenón means a really big whale.) Those big sizes are one of Mazatlán’s claims to fame, historically only available in that Pacific coast town, where one of the most popular tourist photo ops is relaxing on the beach, ballena in hand.
Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.
I have never been a beer drinker. BUT .. back in the early 80s I found Pacifico in Mazatlan … to this day its the only beer I will drink .. and usually only when I am in Mexico … best beer ever !!!
Hah! You’re part of history, Samuel! Cheers!
It was in May 1961 when I first drank Pacifico while on a trip to Mazatlan from Tucson. I saw no surfers there. The place I rented was on the beach. I believe the author of this article is out of touch with “factuality”, but that’s okay; I’ve seen various versions regarding the Germans who started Pacifico, and that’s okay too. The point is that there has long been good beer long available in (throughout) Mexico. Bringing it into the USA was the first border problem.
The same difficulty is now confronted by vintners in Mexico. There are some really fine wines there, but import/export has at length been problematic. Que lastima!
I’m now 86 years old. My trips to Mexico since 1958 found ‘Victoria’ beer at first to be the every-day-favorite of people there. I was in Puerto Vallarta in August 1982 when the currency devaluation occurred. A week later, Pacifico, and Modelo de Barril were the only two brands available along the tourist routes of the city. I found places away from the beach front malecon that had Victoria available.
Doubtless, beer in Mexico is of exceptional quality. It took a bum rap – undeservedly – over many years.
Hi James, thanks for writing! As a surfer living in Mazatlan, my guess is that the beach you stayed in front of was not one where the waves were good for surfing. 😉 There are only a handful in Mazatlan that are, actually. Just FYI, I always research what I write extensively and that’s the history that’s on the Grupo Modelo website, the newer Pacifico website and in a good number of less authoritative articles as well. It’s the closest thing to truth about Pacifico’s start there is. But any way you look at it, it’s great beer! Saludos!
There is something special about Mexican beers that just gets you in the right frame of mind. Corona, Sol, Victoria, Pacifico…..