The world is full of stories about people running. Sometimes they’re running toward something: fame, fortune or a better life. More often, they’re running from something, like persecution or poverty. The Jews of Eastern Europe knew all about this.

The first major migration of Ashkenazi Jews to Mexico took place in the early 20th century, fleeing the same pogroms that sent their cousins to Ellis Island. They found that there were already Jews in their new country, mainly Syrians who had migrated from the Ottoman Empire. The Ashkenazi Jews set up businesses and community institutions. They made homes. They built synagogues. They learned Spanish. And, of course, they ate.

Which brings us to rugelach. The Ashkenazi Jews of Mexico weren’t about to give up their famous pastries, even if they now lived in a place where chili peppers outnumbered snowflakes a thousand to one. So the rugelach stayed. And, being in Mexico, it changed.

Somewhere along the way, someone thought: What if we filled it with cajeta? Cajeta is Mexican caramel, made from goat’s milk. It is sweet, sticky and, if you do not respect it, capable of gluing your teeth together permanently. Someone else tried guava paste, because guava paste makes everything better.

The little crescent-shaped pastries became something new. They weren’t entirely Eastern European anymore, but they weren’t entirely Mexican either. They were something in between— like the people who brought them to Mexico, rugelach had left home and found itself somewhere new.

Now, in this version made with smoked salmon, the traditionally sweet rugelach finds itself somewhere even newer: the world of savory flavors.

Savory smoked salmon rugelach

Ingredients

For the dough

• 8 oz cream cheese, softened
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• ½ tsp salt

For the filling

• 4 oz smoked salmon, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp cream cheese, softened
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
• ½ tsp lemon zest
• ¼ tsp black pepper

For assembly and topping

• 1 egg (for egg wash)
• 1 tsp water
• 1 tbsp sesame or poppy seeds (optional)

Instructions

1. Make the dough. In a bowl, mix cream cheese, flour, and salt until a soft dough forms. Divide into two discs, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 1 hour.
2. Prepare the Filling. Combine the smoked salmon, cream cheese, mustard, dill, lemon zest, and black pepper in a bowl. Mix until spreadable.
3. Prep the oven. Preheat oven to 375 F (190 C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
4. Assemble the rugelach. Roll out one dough disc into a 12-inch circle. Spread half the filling evenly over the dough.
5. Shape the rugelach. Cut the dough into 12 wedges. Roll each wedge from the wide end to the point to form crescents. Repeat with the second dough disc.
6. Bake the rugelach. Place crescents on baking sheet Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden and cool slightly before serving.

Stephen Randall has lived in Mexico since 2018 by way of Kentucky, and before that, Germany. He’s an enthusiastic amateur chef who takes inspiration from many different cuisines, with favorites including Mexican and Mediterranean.