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Día de Muertos dos and don’ts: How to tread lightly when the veil between worlds thins
As San Miguel de Allende adorns its doorways with iconic sun-hued cempasúchil and purple velvet flowers resembling rooster combs, the town’s hotels will reach capacity with an influx of tourists from Mexico City and the world. Many will experience the mystical allure of Día de Muertos for the first time — including my own toddler twin boys. Born in this town and carrying both Mexican and Burmese American heritage, the pressure is on for me as their foreign-born mother to deliver a memory that is both age-appropriate and resonant with their cultural roots.
But tradition isn’t a stagnant concept, nor is it merely the sum of the material objects that have been gingerly collected and preserved over generations to mark the occasion. To help me sift through what is essential for anyone who can count themselves lucky enough to be part of this year’s Día de Muertos festivities in San Miguel de Allende, I called up Nancy Hoch, the owner of the community hub Geek & Coffee for over a decade. The 39-year-old mother and San Miguel native is proudly descended from a 200-year paternal lineage that is indigenous to this area. Hoch’s father is the President of Costumbres y Tradiciones, a nonprofit organization dedicated to fostering and maintaining an understanding of the longstanding patrimony of San Miguel de Allende. Each year, they work to bridge the divide between locals and foreigners.
Acknowledging the ‘living tradition’
“Our traditions are alive; they never died,” said Hoch. “We are not remembering anything, we’re simply living them. Unlike in say the United States, we’re not remembering something that was lost, we’re living the continuation of our traditions.”
She went on to share that Catrinas, with their extravagant flower crowns and full-length gowns, are a relatively new addition to the Day, emerging over the last hundred years or so. And so, for those wondering about the relevance or “acceptability” of stepping into the parade in elegant dress, adelante, go ahead and strut your stuff. As Hoch explained, “These are living traditions, and our kids have the right to continue building on them as much as our ancestors did.”
It’s also common on Halloween in San Miguel for gringos to gleefully dole out candy in the main square, the Jardín Allende. My own children will be there, hand in hand this year, disguised as Batman and Robin. If anyone is perplexed by these two holidays colliding, and the potential confusion it may cause for our little ones, Hoch says they’re not so different after all.
Centuries ago, during harvest festivals, farmers and their families would ask for piloncillo and other sweets to cook their pumpkins. Still today, you’ll hear the Mexican youth ask, “Dame para mi calaverita,” a hollowed-out Jack-o-Lantern in hand, hoping to carry sweetness into the following year. Hoch said this is as close to Mexican Halloween as it gets (though not to be conflated with Día de Muertos whatsoever).
“You guys can face paint, and we can trick-or-treat. It’s cool,” she laughed. “Have we modified this practice? Yes. Is it also part of our Mexican Indigenous traditions? Also, yes.”
Private vs. public: Respect the difference
Hoch says that Mexicans intentionally mark the occasion in both private and public ways. For instance, the ephemeral artistic carpet ofrendas in Centro, made of sawdust, sand, and earth, are purposefully meant to be seen and shared. But the biggest faux pas and offense a non-Miguelense can make is to go on a tour of a cemetery or the Pantheon on November 2.
Many locals say that these types of tours should be outright banned, and foreigners often struggle to walk the fine line of participation in this liminal time of year and voyeurism. Hoch wants people to heed her primary caution: “Don’t go to cemeteries on November 2 if you don’t have someone buried there. If you do not know them by name or know where that stone is, don’t go.” The day before the nationally recognized Día de Muertos, November 1, is also a particularly tender time. Grieving mothers and fathers spend it honoring children who have died.
Instead, there are plenty of other places to practice quiet contemplation, starting with your own home. If you’re hesitant to build an altar, consider befriending a local and lighting candles with them in their space. Last week, a friend of mine from Mexico City, whose daughter is the same age as my twins, welcomed us into her annual ritual of playing “La Llorona” on repeat, eating pan de muerto, sipping cardamom-spiced hot chocolate, and reciting orations while illuminating the altar for the first time during the month she’ll keep it on display. It dawned on me that, for the first time, I was saying the names of my maternal grandparents out loud to them. Even though my twins hold no personal memories of Eleanor and Edward, seeing her parents honored was comforting to my Burmese mother, as she fully immersed herself in the ways of her host country.
No permission, no picture
In the Instagram era, taking photos is a hot topic in general, especially for protective and concerned parents and families. I was mortified when Nancy told me that last year, a 20-something social media “influencer” removed a photograph her father had put up of one of their departed loved ones to replace it with her own logo for a clickbait shot. Rudely awakened from his silent memorializing, he nearly spat out his tequila — I would have done much worse.
Hoch wanted me to know that the issue isn’t taking photographs so much as it is where, when, and whether or not you’ve requested explicit permission from the people you’re capturing on film. “I have an ofrenda up at Geek & Coffee, and you are welcome to take a picture of it. It’s meant to be shared,” Hoch told me. “But you are not welcome to take photos of my son placing flowers on a grave.” Categorically, photos in any cemetery are off limits. When attending a public event, such as the Día de Muertos parade, it’s worth reminding yourself to always ask permission before capturing the moment, especially if children are in the frame. It’s easy to be swept up in the extravagance, but pause to consider that heartfelt mourning and reflecting on the fragility of life are pulsing all around you. This is part and parcel of honoring the thinning of the veil with reverence and respect for the dead on their sacred day of homecoming.
Not if, but how
Generally, Mexicans are known for being generous and inclusive, particularly with their food, customs, and hospitality. They want to invite us into their vivid, ever-evolving world of dancing skeletons and petal-lined paths, delicately built so the ancestors can find their way home.
And let’s not ignore the elephant in the room about Catrina face painting: In 2023, Guadalajara native Gabriela Solís argued in this same publication that, yes, it is generally acceptable for foreigners to paint their faces (except in certain circumstances; read on for more about the historical context of her conclusion). Ultimately, it doesn’t matter where you come from on Día de Muertos, as we are all marching toward the same eventuality. What lives on or emerges from the inevitably expanding tradition of opening our doors, streets, and hearts to the return of our loved ones’ spirits will be shaped by past, present, and future.
As a culturally complex family, we aren’t religious, but Nancy’s final words will resonate deeply with us throughout the upcoming weekend: “Everybody loves the idea of being remembered. At the end of the day, we all hope somebody’s gonna put our picture up.”
Simone Jacobson is a Burmese American cultural connector, toddler twin mama and writer based in San Miguel de Allende. By day, she is the Content Director for Well Spirit Collective. In all other moments, she strives to raise compassionate children who never lose their curiosity, tenderness and radiant light. Read more by Simone here.
If you like the Galapagos Islands, then you’ll love Espíritu Santo in Mexico
The barks echo across the water long before you see them — hundreds of sea lions piled onto the rocky shores of a tiny islet set against a backdrop of pinkish-red volcanic cliffs. Meanwhile, a blue-footed booby, perched on the rocks, performs its clumsy, charming courtship dance. High on the clifftops, a magnificent frigatebird inflates its great scarlet throat pouch like a balloon.
You’d be forgiven for thinking that this is the legendary Galapagos Islands. But this isn’t Ecuador. The island is, in fact, located in our beloved Mexico. As part of our series where we veer off the beaten path and uncover lesser-known secrets of Mexico that rival some of the world’s wonders, we’re bringing you with us to a little-visited island in the Sea of Cortez, off the coast of Baja California: Isla Espíritu Santo.
There’s an incredible feeling that comes from setting foot in a place that feels so utterly untouched. Despite being just a short boat ride from the city of La Paz, this highly protected national park and wildlife sanctuary feels a million miles away from it all. As the number of visitors is restricted, the island remains incredibly pristine and well-preserved.
Galapagos Islands vs. Espíritu Santo
Comparing the Galapagos to Espíritu Santo isn’t as absurd as it sounds; in fact, both islands were born of violent volcanic activity, which gave them dramatic, almost prehistoric landscapes. The Sea of Cortez, famously dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau, is a biodiversity hotspot akin to the Galapagos, a living laboratory of evolution. In recognition of their immense natural value, both regions are celebrated as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The wildlife encounters in both destinations are truly exceptional. While in the Galapagos, you might find yourself face-to-face with a marine iguana or the famous blue-footed boobies, Espíritu Santo offers its own cast of creatures. You can spot blue-footed boobies here too, often seen performing their comical courtship dances on the rocky shores.
The island is also the exclusive home to endemic species like the black jackrabbit and the Espíritu Santo whiptail. Much like the animals in the Galapagos, the wildlife here has little fear of humans, allowing for incredibly intimate and unforgettable interactions.
Why you should visit Espíritu Santo
Here is where Isla Espíritu Santo truly shines as a fantastic alternative to the Galapagos: accessibility and affordability. The Galapagos are extremely remote and famous for the hefty price tag. A trip often involves multiple flights (as you need to fly through mainland Ecuador), a significant national park fee (most foreigners pay US $200 while kids under 12 pay $100), and costly liveaboard cruises. Even budget backpackers who stay at hostels and do island-hopping tours from there will expect to spend at least $200 per day. Ultimately, a Galapagos trip is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that requires extensive planning and a substantial budget.
Espíritu Santo, in contrast, is refreshingly accessible and not too expensive to get to. Its main gateway is La Paz, a coastal city just a two-hour drive from Cabo San Lucas. From La Paz, the island is easily reached by a boat trip that takes about an hour to 90 minutes. Many local tour operators offer day tours for US $100 to $200 per person and include snorkeling gear and lunch on a nearby island.
Highlights of Espíritu Santo
The undisputed highlight of any trip to Espíritu Santo is swimming with sea lions at Los Islotes. These “puppies of the sea” are incredibly inquisitive and will often dart and spiral around you. My daughter, in particular, was overjoyed to see hundreds of sea lion pups swooshing all around us — a few even curiously swam right up to us!
When booking your boat trip, it’s important to do your research and make sure that the tour operator follows ethical practices and local regulations. The great news is that all tour operators in La Paz are certified and regulated by SEMARNAT, Mexico’s Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. Every boat that enters the protected La Paz bay is tracked and monitored. Note that swimming with the sea lions is restricted during their breeding season in the summer months (June through August).
Baja Expeditions comes highly recommended, having operated ecotourism activities in the Sea of Cortez since 1974. They not only run ethical day tours, but also offer an exclusive zero footprint “pop-up” eco-camp on this uninhabited island. You can spend your days kayaking, scuba diving and swimming with whale sharks, and then enjoy the freshest seafood before sleeping under the stars by night. Only campers will get the rare chance to hike around the island with a naturalist (daytrippers aren’t allowed) to learn about the unique flora and perhaps spot a blue-footed booby or two.
Beyond the island
To truly experience Espíritu Santo, you’ll need to use La Paz as your base. I can never understand why everyone flocks to Los Cabos and skips La Paz, just a two-hour drive away, when the coastal city is brimming with water-based activities and rich in authentic Mexican culture. Best of all, you won’t find any tourist crowds here.
Depending on the season, typically from October to April, the bay becomes a gathering place for the largest fish in the world: the whale shark. Sharing the water with these gentle giants is another humbling, awe-inspiring wildlife encounter that rivals anything the Galapagos can offer. In case you’re wondering, it’s entirely safe to swim with whale sharks — these gentle giants are harmless and only feed on krill and small schooling fish.
La Paz is also blessed with picture-perfect strands with powdery sand and calm spearmint water — perfect swimming conditions, especially for the little ones. A short drive from the city will take you to Balandra Bay, a shallow cove that is consistently ranked among the world’s best beaches, and its neighbor, Tecolote Beach, with a more lively atmosphere and beachside restaurants.
Spend your evenings strolling along the city’s famous malecón or boardwalk, especially as the sun sets over the bay, painting the sky in fiery colors. The waterfront is dotted with fantastic sculptures, laidback bars and excellent seafood restaurants where you can savor fresh seafood. I highly recommend grabbing some fresh Baja-style fish tacos at the famous Taco Fish, and top them generously with free condiments like preserved onions and guacamole sauce, then wash them down with delicious craft beer on the rooftop of the waterfront Harkerboard Co.
A more accessible paradise
To wrap it all up, while the Galapagos Islands will forever be an iconic destination, Espíritu Santo provides a similar sense of untamed nature in a more casual and accessible package.
If you are seeking an adventure that delivers awe-inspiring wildlife and unforgettable landscapes without the immense cost and complexity of a Galapagos expedition, then add this island to your Baja California itinerary the next time you’re here. You may just find the paradise you’ve been dreaming of.
Nellie Huang is a self-proclaimed Mexico-holic. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.
When the dead come home
As the days shorten and the golden light of late October gives way to November’s hush, something begins to stir across Mexico. The scent of marigolds fills the air. Streets bloom in orange and gold. Candles are lit, altars are built and doors, both real and invisible, are opened.
It’s Día de Muertos, the Day of the Dead. But this isn’t a time for mourning. It’s a time for memory, for music and for love. It’s a time for coming home.
At the heart of Día de Muertos is one beautiful, soul-stirring belief that once a year, the spirits of our loved ones return. Not in silence, and not as shadows. But in light, in color and in joy.
For a brief moment, the veil between worlds thins. The dead aren’t gone; they aren’t lost. They’re simply away, and now they’re being welcomed back home.
And we prepare for them as we would for any cherished guest. Homes are cleaned. Tables are set. Ofrendas — altars of offering — are lovingly built.Candles flicker beside framed photographs. Bread and tamales are laid out alongside bottles of mezcal or soda, a favorite book, a rosary or a toy. Every object is a whisper: “You’re still ours. Please come home.”
This celebration, so vibrant and tender, reaches back more than 3,000 years to the peoples of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica.
Among the Aztecs and other Nahua civilizations, death wasn’t seen as an end, but as a continuation. It was a passageway in the great maze of existence. Life and death were sisters, not strangers.
They believed that when someone died, their soul began a long journey through Chicunamictlán, the Land of the Dead. It was a path of challenges and transformations that could take years. Only after this pilgrimage could the soul find rest in Mictlán, the final resting place.
When Spanish Catholicism arrived in the 16th century, these ancient beliefs were woven together with Christian teachings. The result was something layered and luminous — the Día de Muertos we know today.
Officially, the celebration spans two days. November 1, Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day), honors the souls of children. November 2, Día de Muertos itself, welcomes adults who’ve passed on.
But in many places, remembrance begins earlier, on October 27, with days set aside for souls lost to accidents, to drowning, to violence. There are days that remember the forgotten and beloved pets. Each soul is given space and is worthy of light.
The ofrenda is the heart of every home during Día de Muertos. More than a memorial, it’s a bridge to reach across the unseen.
Each element, the salt, water, fruit, pan de muerto, and papel picado, is chosen with care and intention. These offerings don’t just symbolise the past, they nourish and guide. They speak.
Most striking of all are the cempazúchitl, Mexican marigolds. Their bold orange petals are said to attract spirits. Their scent, it’s believed, helps guide loved ones home. Families often lay trails of marigold petals from the street to the door as a means of creating bright, fragrant paths that say, “This way. We’re here. Come in.” It’s not superstition. It’s the sacred hospitality of memory.
There’s nothing gloomy here. Instead, there’s music, laughter, candlelight and storytelling.
Graves are swept and decorated. Families gather with guitars and baskets of food. Children play among the headstones. And when night falls, cemeteries glow with hundreds of candles, each flame a flicker of love.
Skeletons are everywhere, but they don’t frighten. They smile. They wink. They wear suits and gowns. They remind us that death comes for everyone, but it doesn’t have to be feared. La Catrina, the iconic skeletal lady in her feathered hat, is elegant, not grim. She doesn’t carry a scythe, she carries a smile.
To confront death this way — with warmth, with humour, with color — is an act of cultural courage. It says that death may come, but love remains. Voices may fall silent, but their echoes carry on.
No celebration is complete without food, and Día de Muertos is rich with flavor. Most iconic is pan de muerto, a soft, sweet bread often shaped with bones and dusted in sugar. It’s eaten with hot chocolate or the hot drink, atole, and is always placed on the altar as a gift for the returning spirits.
Tamales, mole, sugared skulls and favorite drinks all find their way onto the ofrenda. It’s not just a tradition, it’s a reunion at a sacred picnic shared across time.
I’m not a religious person, but I’ve stood before an ofrenda and felt something like reverence. Or peace. There’s a quiet wisdom in this celebration. It reminds us that death isn’t the opposite of life, it’s part of it. It reminds us that we’re made of those who came before us, and that we’ll live on in those who come after. The idea that someone might return when we remember them, that memory itself becomes a doorway, is deeply comforting.
In the end, Día de Muertos isn’t just for the dead, it’s for us. It asks us to live well, to love deeply, and to leave behind stories worth telling and gestures worth repeating. It asks us to be the kind of people someone might build an altar for. And maybe one day, they will. Maybe someone will place our photo in a frame, light a candle in our honor and say our name out loud.
We’ll find our way back — drawn home by memory, by light and by love.
Charlotte Smith is a writer and journalist based in Mexico. Her work focuses on travel, politics, and community. You can follow along with her travel stories at www.salsaandserendipity.com.
How Los Cabos has connected to the world
Airline service arrived arm-in-arm with the nascent tourism industry in Baja California Sur after the end of the Second World War. However, in those early pioneer days, as Peter Gerhard and Howard E. Gulick noted in an early edition of “The Lower California Guidebook,” the region was also “popular among people owning light airplanes,” who could “fly down for a weekend of fishing, hunting, etc., at remote spots which otherwise could be reached only by a long and arduous automobile trip.”
Trans Mar de Cortés was the region’s first dedicated airline — BCS didn’t become a state until 1974 — offering service aboard DC-3s as early as 1954. That company, owned by Mayo Obregón, son of Mexico’s 46th president, Álvaro Obregón, was instrumental in opening up the area for tourism. However, it was only after Aeronaves de México (now Aeroméxico) acquired Trans Mar de Cortés in 1962 that the first direct flights from Los Angeles to La Paz were scheduled aboard DC-6s that could bring in as many as 62 passengers at a time.
The opening of the Los Cabos International Airport
The flow of tourists to Los Cabos, then home to only a handful of hotels, would ramp up in the 1970s due to two major infrastructure projects: the completion of the transpeninsular highway in 1973 and the opening of Los Cabos International Airport in San José del Cabo in 1977. The latter allowed for as many as 3,000 visitors per day, although it bears noting that neither the name Los Cabos nor the municipality it represents was established until 1981.
The Los Cabos International Airport has only continued to grow its facilities and passenger capacity, from its opening until 1999 under the jurisdiction of the federal government and the parastatal Aeropuertos y Servicios Auxiliares (ASA), and since then via a 50-year concession granted to Grupo Aeroportuario del Pacífico (GAP). Under the latter’s stewardship, Los Cabos International Airport has become the sixth busiest in the country, servicing upwards of 20,000 passengers a day on average. That volume is expected to double over the next decade, thanks to ongoing expansions and upgrades.
The search for new markets
However, remarkably, as recently as 2016, more than 60 years after the first regional airline service, Los Angeles remained by far the most likely destination of origin for travelers bound for Los Cabos. It is only in the last 10 years or so that Los Cabos has truly connected to the world, and that progress is ongoing.
In fact, when Rodrigo Esponda Cascajares was named managing director of Fideicomiso de Turismo de Los Cabos (aka FITURCA, or the Los Cabos Tourism Board) in 2016, Los Angeles remained so firmly entrenched as the major market for Los Cabos that there still wasn’t a non-stop flight from New York City or service at all from many U.S. states. That quickly changed — service has grown from less than 20 U.S. markets to 32 in under a decade — as the Los Cabos Tourism Board has spearheaded an effort to expand connectivity and introduce Los Cabos as a destination to new travelers around the globe.
Here’s where those efforts stand as of 2025.
U.S. and Canada connectivity
The U.S. and Canada remain the major international markets for Los Cabos tourism, accounting for the majority of arrivals in 2024. Canada’s contributions have fluctuated in recent years due to a slow bounce-back following the pandemic years of 2020-2021, but 2024 was a very strong year for Canadian tourism to Los Cabos. Of the 62% market share of international tourists last year, the U.S. accounted for 2.2 million, and Canada for 360,000.
Several new flights have been announced this year from the North American nations, including new routes to Los Cabos from Mexican carrier Volaris, departing from Oakland, California, and Ontario, Canada; new weekly flights from Nashville, Tennessee; direct flights from Indianapolis; expansion of service on American Airlines’ flights from Chicago; and upcoming holiday season flights from Austin, Texas courtesy of Delta.
Domestic flights
Mexico City has always been the primary connection point for domestic travelers to Los Cabos, although more than a dozen other national routes have since been established from Cancún, Ciudad Juárez, Culiacán, Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Hermosillo, La Paz, León, Los Mochis, Mérida, Mexicali, Monterrey, Puebla, Puerto Vallarta, Querétaro, Tijuana and Toluca. The routes from Puebla and Mérida were among the most recently announced and began in 2024.
Through the first seven months of 2025, 847,250 Mexican travelers arrived in Los Cabos, as compared to 2.35 million internationals, with the domestic market representing 36% of the total tourist count.
Europe
There is only one flight currently coming directly from Europe to Los Cabos: that operated by Condor Airlines out of Frankfurt, Germany. The service aboard Airbus A330-900neo airliners with a carrying capacity of up to 310 passengers launched for the 2024-2025 season and has been renewed for a second one, from Nov. 3, 2025, to April 6, 2026.
Condor holds the record for the longest regularly scheduled flight to Los Cabos on Earth, covering 9,890 kilometers in a little over 11 hours twice weekly to deliver some 16,000 German and other European tourists during the winter “high season.” Considering each is estimated to spend more than US $3,000 during their 10-day average trips, that’s a nearly $50 million impact on the local economy.
However, the potential for other flights from Europe does exist based on historical precedent. Iberojet, for example, operated seasonal flights from Madrid to Los Cabos during 2022 and 2023, and the U.K.’s TUI Airways initiated the first direct European flights from London’s Gatwick Airport between 2019 and 2023.
Central and South America
Of all the new routes announced this year, none have generated the excitement of upcoming flights from Panama via Copa Airlines. Billed as “the Hub of the Americas,” Panama’s leading airline connects to more than 80 destinations in 33 countries across Central America, South America and the Caribbean, opening up the possibility of travel to Los Cabos from virtually anywhere in the Western Hemisphere and the entirety of Latin America.
“This achievement is the result of more than nine years of constant work and collaboration with Copa Airlines,” Esponda noted in July 2025. “For the first time, we are directly opening our doors to the Latin American market, which will be key to continuing to increase tourist arrivals from the region.”
The flights to Los Cabos will operate nonstop from Tocumen International Airport (PTY) in Panama City, three days per week aboard Boeing 737-800 airliners starting in December of this year. The early expectation is that this new route, the 61st worldwide to Los Cabos, will, with its numerous connections, attract as many as 25,000 tourists a year from Latin America.
What’s next?
Next on the agenda, one presumes, is opening up routes to Africa, Asia and Australia. However, lest one think Los Cabos has forgotten its roots, there are also 200,000 passengers from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) scheduled in the next six months, still more than any other U.S. destination.
Chris Sands is the former Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best and writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook. He’s also a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily.
Taste of Mexico: Calabaza en tacha
For me, the most exciting time of the year has already begun. Maybe it’s just a personal
illusion, but I swear the world feels different as the air cools, the light softens and the
collective mood shifts toward celebration. First comes Día de Muertos, then my birthday,
and finally Christmas. I can’t stop working, of course, but something inside me softens.
My mind starts to drift toward home, toward the people and scents that built the
architecture of my memory.
If I had Marcel Proust’s talent, I would write my own “In Search of Lost Time,” except
instead of madeleines, the trigger would be the smell of piloncillo and cinnamon — those
dark, honeyed notes that mean comfort, warmth and belonging. They take me back to
my grandmother’s kitchen, where she’d ask me to sing while she worked, just to make
sure I was still alive somewhere nearby. To afternoons when I’d sit coloring at the
kitchen table while my mother helped my sister with her homework. To the sound of my
father in the next room, rehearsing the lines of a play he’d perform that evening.
The scent of piloncillo and cinnamon, sometimes mixed with the marigolds of Día de
Muertos, sometimes with the resinous pine of Christmas. To me, happiness, safety, and
the feeling of being home smell exactly like that — like caramelized sugar and spice
suspended in the air.
Calabaza en tacha
That’s why I think of calabaza en tacha as the dish that announces this season of
memory. It’s the first recipe of autumn in Mexico, the moment when piloncillo and
cinnamon return to the pot.
Archaeologists tell us that pumpkins were the first domesticated plant in the Americas,
cultivated some 10,000 years ago in what is now Oaxaca. Every part of the plant
was useful, but the seeds — rich in protein and easy to store — were treasured. Over
time, people began experimenting with the flesh itself, learning to sweeten and preserve
it using the sap of the maguey. That was the earliest version of what we now know
as calabaza en tacha, meaning pumpkin cooked with lime and maguey syrup.
Then came the Spanish, and with them, sugarcane. In the 16th century, sugar
production flourished in the valleys of Morelos and Puebla. The juice of the cane was
boiled in great copper cauldrons until thick and dark, then poured into wooden molds
where it crystallized. Those cauldrons were called tachos, and the dark sugar they
produced — piloncillo — became the soul of countless Mexican sweets.
The pumpkin, cooked in the tacho itself, inherited the name. Traditionally, the chunks
were placed in a basket woven from palm leaves and set inside the pot, allowing them
to steam gently in the syrup. Over generations, the dish became a staple of Día de
Muertos, both for practical and symbolic reasons. It’s pumpkin season, yes — but it’s also
a food that stands between worlds, a sweet offering for the living and the dead.
The modern stove
These days, you don’t need a sugar mill or a week’s worth of patience to
make calabaza en tacha. Modern kitchens have simplified what was once an alchemical
process. All you need is a pumpkin, some piloncillo, and a few aromatics like cinnamon,
star anise or orange peel. In some parts of Mexico, cooks still soak the pumpkin in
lime water so it holds its shape. But personally, I like it soft, almost collapsing into a
purée.
[insert video here]
Here’s the version that lives in my kitchen:
Traditional Calabaza en Tacha
(Serves 6–8 people)
Ingredients
• 3–4 pounds of calabaza de Castilla (or butternut/kabocha squash)
• 1 pound of piloncillo (2 medium cones)
• 8 cups of water
• 2–3 sticks of cinnamon
• 2 star anise
• 3–4 whole cloves
• 1 orange, sliced (optional)
• Guavas or tejocotes (optional, for regional variation)
Preparation
1. Prepare the pumpkin. Wash it well and cut into large pieces — about 3 to 4
inches each. No need to peel. The rind keeps the flesh intact as it cooks.
2. Make the syrup. In a large pot, combine the water, piloncillo, cinnamon, anise,
cloves and orange slices. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until
the piloncillo dissolves. The kitchen should smell like home.
3. Cook the pumpkin. Arrange the pieces in the pot, skin-side down for the first
layer, skin-side up for the next. Cover and cook over low heat for 40–60 minutes,
turning occasionally. The pumpkin is ready when a knife slips in easily.
4. Reduce the syrup. Remove the pumpkin and let the syrup thicken for another
10–15 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon. Pour over the pumpkin. For a
caramelized finish, bake briefly at 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Serve warm, at room temperature, or even cold with milk or a scoop of vanilla ice
cream. In Puebla, they add fig leaves and tejocotes; in Michoacán, chunks of
sugarcane; in Oaxaca, guavas. The recipe migrates and adapts, but the essence
remains the same: sugar, spice and memory.
Amigos, a single bowl of calabaza en tacha carries an entire season’s worth of nostalgia.
It’s the flavor of late October, of early darkness, of orange marigolds glowing in the
dusk. When I make it, I like to think the scent might reach those who are no longer
here — the ones who taught me to sing in the kitchen, who rehearsed lines in the next
room.
Every family has a smell that anchors them to time. Mine is cinnamon
and piloncillo. What’s yours?
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
Jalisco’s Los Altos Tequila Route opens new path for rural tourism ahead of 2026 World Cup
In the red-clay hills east of Guadalajara, where endless rows of blue agave ripple toward the horizon, the next chapter of Jalisco’s tequila story is taking shape. The state has unveiled the Los Altos Tequila Route, a new tourism corridor that links eight highland towns known for producing some of Mexico’s distinctive tequilas and for keeping alive the rural tradition behind them.
The announcement coincided with the Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. This international tasting event brought producers and judges to Guadalajara, Tequila, Puerto Vallarta and several of the state’s Pueblos Mágicos. With Guadalajara preparing to host matches for the 2026 FIFA World Cup, Jalisco’s tourism officials see an opportunity to set part of that global spotlight on the region’s agricultural interior.
A new tequila trail
For more than a decade, the original Tequila Route west of Guadalajara has drawn visitors to the namesake town and surrounding UENSCO-listed agave fields. The new Los Altos circuit turns the focus eastward, to higher elevations, where the soil is rich with iron and the cooler climate yields sweeter, fruit-forward agaves.
The route connects Acatic, Tepatitlán, San Ignacio Cerro Gordo, Arandas, Jesús María, Atotonilco El Alto, Ayotlán and Tototlán, communities that together offer more than 1,600 rooms, 530 restaurants and 75 organized visitor experiences. Travelers can tour small-batch distilleries, stay at family haciendas or join workshops that walk them through every stage of tequila production, from hand-harvesting the piñas to barrel aging and tasting.
Signature attractions
Among the signature stops is the forthcoming Clase Azul Interpretive Museum and Los González Reserve, which plans to combine horseback rides through agave plantations with interpretive exhibits exploring the craftsmanship behind the brand’s ceramic bottles. In Arandas, construction has begun on Mundo de Don Julio, a cultural complex that will include a restaurant, museum and guided experiences celebrating one of Mexico’s most recognized labels.
To the south, El Tesoro de los Altos by Campo Azul is being developed as a countryside retreat with cabins overlooking the fields, ATV excursions, and blending workshops led by local distillers. Nearby, Farm-to-Table by Tequila San Matías will showcase regional ingredients — corn, goat cheese, chiles and fresh herbs — served with tequila pairings and talks on sustainable agriculture. And at Casa Loy, outside Tepatitlán, chefs are designing menus that connect contemporary Mexican cooking with traditional highland spirits.
These plans are all part of the tourism board’s greater design to expand the state’s tourism sectors beyond the coastal resorts and Guadalajara, especially as the state braces for an influx of tourists during the World Cup.
A booming industry, but how much room to grow?
Tequila’s tourism appeal is undeniable. Tequila received 1.2 million visitors in 2023, a 19% increase from 2019. While that period includes the pandemic years, when international travel slowed, it’s worth noting that Mexico was one of the few countries to keep its borders open. As a result, domestic and regional travel surged, and destinations like Tequila saw massive growth.
For a small town, 1.2 million annual visitors is a significant number, and it signals a clear appetite for spirits-based tourism. The question now is whether the Los Altos corridor can capture a share of that interest and disperse it more evenly across the state.
Jalisco as a whole is riding a wave of momentum. In the first trimester of 2025, the state recorded 11 million visitors. Puerto Vallarta alone receives about two million travelers per year, while Guadalajara welcomed roughly 16 million in 2024. The new highlands circuit could help balance that flow, but whether it can divert enough travelers from established destinations to make a measurable difference in overcrowding remains to be seen.
What’s clear, however, is that there is real demand for tequila-related experiences, and the highlands offer a way to expand the narrative beyond one small, over-visited town.
Positioning for the World Cup boom
State officials expect the Los Altos route to be fully operational by the time the 2026 FIFA World Cup begins. Guadalajara will serve as one of Mexico’s three host cities, and tourism authorities estimate that the tournament could bring an additional five million visitors nationwide and generate several billion dollars in tourism spending.
By opening up a new tourism corridor, the plan is to help thin out the rush of crowds who will surely flood Guadalajara and the beaches around the Bay of Banderas. Road improvements, new signage, and a digital map are in the works to make the circuit easier for self-guided travelers.
Ready for diversification
Tequila remains one of Mexico’s most lucrative exports, generating nearly US $4 billion in 2024, according to the Tequila Regulatory Council. But much of that profit still flows to large-scale producers. The Los Altos initiative aims to integrate smaller distilleries, agave farmers and local entrepreneurs into the formal tourism network.
Community cooperatives and municipal governments are collaborating on training programs for guides, restaurateurs and homestay owners to help professionalize services while keeping management local.
The highlands of Jalisco were inscribed by UNESCO in 2006 as part of the Agave Landscape and Ancient Industrial Facilities of Tequila. Preserving that legacy has become central to the route’s long-term vision.
Participating distilleries are adopting water-recycling systems, composting agave waste and restoring native vegetation around their fields. Many of the new visitor programs include lessons on biodiversity and reforestation. The state’s Sustainable Tourism Council has said that it will oversee certification to ensure that growth does not compromise environmental standards.
A new tourism model
Los Altos is one element of a larger push to diversify Jalisco’s food and beverage tourism. Along the Pacific coast, the Raicilla Route continues to expand, introducing travelers to the lesser-known smoky spirit native to Jalisco. Two wine routes are also being developed in the highlands.
Together, these projects are pointing to a new phase in Jalisco’s tourism model, one that has traditionally relied on sun-and-sand tourism. For travelers, the Los Altos Tequila Route is a window into the landscapes and the personalities behind Mexico’s national drink. Visitors driving the route will pass small roadside distilleries, open-air markets and fields where jimadores still harvest by hand.
As the countdown to the World Cup continues, Jalisco is betting that these quiet hills will draw as much curiosity as the crowds in the stadium of Guadalajara. For the communities of Los Altos, the hope is that attention may bring recognition and a more sustainable future.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
Trump’s immigration crackdown could have a silver lining for Mexico: A perspective from our CEO
It goes without saying that most of the over 38 million people of Mexican origin living in the United States — regardless of immigration status — are feeling anxiety right now.
I speak frequently with people of Mexican origin on both sides of the border and the stress is impossible to overlook. Those who have legal immigration status or even those born and raised in the U.S. are certain to have a family member, friend, colleague or community member who lacks legal status.
This anxiety is manifesting itself in many ways that are not good for these people or for the broader U.S. economy. I have been told stories of families afraid to send their children to school, of kids afraid to participate in after-school events, of family members afraid to go to the doctor or dentist, of people afraid to go to church and of employees afraid to show up to work. I have heard of weddings, quinceañera parties, homecoming events and vacations cancelled. I have read earnings reports of large multinational corporations in the food, beverage, service, retail and other sectors warning that “the Hispanic customer has drastically reduced consumption of many goods and services, and we are seeing it in our results.” I have seen the recent decrease in remesas (money sent by Mexicans working abroad to family members in Mexico) for the first time in many years, as we reported here.
In mid-October, I was visiting family and friends in both Wisconsin and the Chicago area, and I noticed a dramatic decrease in the number of Mexicans that I saw out and about. Dramatic.
I stopped in a large hardware store chain in the Chicago suburbs to pick up a few things and it was an absolute ghost town. I spent some time talking to the very helpful young Mexican-American employee who helped me locate an item. The conversation with her really stuck in my head.
She told me that she used to work at the contractor desk, but now has been moved to the store floor since “none of our Mexican contractors are coming here anymore.” I asked what she meant.
“The vast majority of the contractors that frequent the store are Mexican, and they are now afraid to come here,” she said. She added that they have almost all begun requesting delivery to avoid the risk of going to the store, that the contractors are avoiding jobs in downtown Chicago right now, and that some of her construction worker friends are even asking her to bring them lunch to further minimize the risk of going to a restaurant. She was noticeably sad and angry as she talked. I asked her how people are feeling; what they are thinking and saying. She lowered her voice and, with tears welling in her eyes, said, “Many of them say that for Mexicans now, the American dream is dead.” I asked her if she believed that, and without hesitation she said, “Yes, absolutely.”
Tatiana Clouthier on ICE raids, fear and the Mexican workforce
She acknowledged the illegal status of many of the contractors, but said most had been there for many years and worked very hard. It was sad to see such a bright young lady so dejected and depressed. I ended our conversation by asking her what she thinks they will do. Her answer: “I think many of them are ultimately going to go back to Mexico. My family is thinking about doing it too.”
Now, perhaps many of our MAGA readers would celebrate and rejoice reading this sentiment. That’s exactly what the Trump administration is trying to accomplish, they would likely say. I will avoid the politics and just comment on one thing that is bipartisan: Americans want the U.S. economy to thrive, but these immigration policies are likely to hinder economic growth. I personally think that the moral and social effects of these policies are equally negative.
With that said, I think Mexico has a tremendous opportunity to welcome people of Mexican origin back to the country. Although job creation numbers have been lackluster for the year, the unemployment rate is still only 3.0%. Think about it: Most of these people are relatively young, hard-working, bilingual, bi-cultural, and educated or trained in the United States. Most want to work, create a better life for their families, and most certainly have family and friend connections already in Mexico. The transition back would not necessarily be easy, but their skills could be used to start new businesses, help existing businesses grow, and improve communities that are in need of their experience.
President Sheinbaum’s administration has already announced a modest program called Mexico Embraces You (México te abraza) to help welcome these people home, but I think much, much more could be done by both the public and private sector.
Mexico’s economy has a growth problem. What better way to help solve it than by importing thousands of well-trained, skilled workers who could have a big impact on countless businesses and communities? The government needs to make the transition as frictionless as possible for them: opening bank accounts, bringing in vehicles, bringing back their personal belongings and importing the professional equipment that they own.
Mexican and multinational companies should be more active in recruiting and transferring those who have an interest in moving to Mexico. It’s important to note that both blue-collar and white-collar workers should be targeted and both are needed. Many of these people are feeling very unwanted in the U.S. right now. There’s an incredible opportunity to make them feel wanted and welcome to make an impact in Mexico.
Another opportunity is with Americans with Mexican roots.
Through our MND Kids initiative, in just the past few months, I have spoken to dozens of teachers and administrators of Mexican descent. One of the biggest surprises I have found is that many of them, more than half, have never been to Mexico … not once! I have learned in talking to them that many have very outdated stereotypes and one-dimensional perspectives about the country. This is clearly an opportunity for MND and MND Kids. There is a HUGE opportunity to better inform and inspire this cohort to spend time in Mexico to reconnect with their heritage and explore the country. If done right, this could provide a significant boost to tourism — especially to the less touristy areas where many have roots.
A famous saying is that one should “never waste the opportunity offered by a crisis.” Mexico has an incredible opportunity right now to welcome its diaspora back to reconnect with the country to live or vacation. Let’s hope this could be a silver lining in what is a very difficult time right now for the Mexican-American community in the U.S.
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.
‘Confidently Wrong’ about banking in Mexico: A new podcast from our CEO
Banking is a boring topic — I get it. But what has always been a sleepy, boring issue has become a very hot topic in the past few months in Mexico.
The government-enforced shutdown of three separate banking institutions in the past few weeks (under pressure from the United States government) has produced a lot of questions, concerns and general anxiety.
My wife and I had an account with CIBanco and I must admit that I was Confidently Wrong about what would happen to our account.
I figured that the pressure from the United States was part of a grand tariff negotiation and ultimately would not impact us — needless to say, I was very wrong!
We were actually out of the country visiting family and friends when I received an email from the Mexican government saying that my account (and all accounts) at CIBanco were frozen and that I would need to open a new account elsewhere and transfer the money to have access to our funds. Talk about stressful!
In this week’s episode of MND’s Confidently Wrong podcast, we talk about Banking in Mexico.
What’s going on right now? As a foreigner, do you really need a bank account in Mexico? How do you choose from the myriad of bank options? And what are the pros and cons of opening a bank account in the country?
It’s the kind of topic that’s not important until it’s REALLY important. Tune in and hear our discussion, as well as find out if I ever got my money back!
You can listen on our YouTube channel, Mexico News Daily TV, below or here on Spotify.
Confidently wrong about banking in Mexico - Episode 8
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.
Mexico’s week in review: US boat strikes escalate tensions as economy stumbles
The week of Oct. 27-31 delivered a sobering economic reality check alongside simmering bilateral tensions with the United States and bright spots in Mexican culture and sports.
While Mexico News Daily returned from a cyber attack that knocked the site offline for five days — three security firms later, we’re back and safer than ever — the news cycle offered no shortage of important headlines.
Didn’t have time to read every story this week? Here’s what you missed.
Mexico’s economy contracts for the first time since 2021
Mexico’s economy shrank in the third quarter, posting its first quarterly contraction since the pandemic recovery began. The unwelcome data arrives as international forecasters had recently upgraded growth projections.
The contraction compounds existing labor market concerns. Mexico’s unemployment rate continued its six-month climb, adding pressure on household budgets even as the government pursues expansionary fiscal policies.
Manufacturing propelled Mexico’s exports to an all-time high in September, with exports reaching $56.48 billion — a 13.8% annual increase. The surge stems primarily from non-automotive manufacturing exports, which jumped 23.9% as Mexico benefits from its comparative advantage: most trade with the United States occurs within the USMCA framework and remains largely exempt from tariffs.
In investment news, the Spanish energy firm Cox announced major wind and solar farm investments in Nuevo León, signaling continued foreign confidence in Mexico’s renewable energy transition. The investment extends Cox’s clean energy commitment in Mexico, where the company plans a US $10.7 billion expansion over the next five years.
Relations with U.S. business interests grew strained as the U.S. Chamber of Commerce took aim at Mexico’s tax agency, citing “aggressive” practices that have created uncertainty for American companies operating in Mexico.
US boat strikes: A brewing diplomatic crisis
The biggest story of the week centered on U.S. military strikes against alleged drug boats near Mexico’s waters.
The strikes killed over a dozen people, with Mexico still seeking the lone survivor.
President Sheinbaum forcefully condemned the operations during her Wednesday press conference and spoke out in favor of arresting suspected drug traffickers at sea, rather than killing them.
“We have a model, a protocol, that has produced a lot of results. If, in international waters, the United States sees a boat that is allegedly carrying drugs, an agreement is reached and either the Mexican Navy or U.S. government institutions [should] intervene to arrest the alleged criminals,” she said.
Sheinbaum said that she had asked her foreign affairs minister, Juan Ramón de la Fuente, to convey the message to the U.S. ambassador to Mexico, Ron Johnson, that what the Mexican government wants is for the aforesaid protocol to be improved “within the framework of the security agreements we have with the United States.”
De la Fuente and Mexico’s Navy Minister Raymundo Pedro Morales met with Johnson on Tuesday.
Flood recovery progresses
Mexico made significant progress in the recovery from Tropical Storm Raymond, which caused major flooding across Hidalgo, Veracruz, Querétaro, San Luis Potosí and Puebla and killed nearly 100 people. By Monday, power was fully restored to flood-affected communities, with Wellbeing Minister Ariadna Montiel reporting that 70,256 people are in the process of receiving financial support to address damage to their homes.
Recovery efforts deployed 53,394 support personnel who cleared roadways, homes and schools, and delivered over 413,000 food parcels. The Federal Electricity Commission mobilized 1,602 workers, 503 pickup trucks, 219 cranes, six helicopters and eight drones for restoration work.
Tariff deadline extended
Following a Saturday phone call with President Trump, Sheinbaum announced that bilateral negotiations on trade and tariffs would extend by several weeks, postponing a scheduled tariff increase from 25% to 30% on non-USMCA compliant Mexican imports.
The 90-day suspension period that began in July was set to expire this week, but the extension renders that deadline moot.
Scheduled US tariff increase on hold after bilateral talks: Monday’s mañanera recapped
Sheinbaum reported that negotiations on 54 non-tariff trade barriers are “very advanced,” with Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard claiming the talks are 90% complete. The president said she and Trump would speak again “in a few weeks” as they work to finalize the agreement, suggesting that despite broader bilateral frictions, economic pragmatism continues driving both governments toward accommodation.
Awards and achievements across design and sports
Oaxaca’s Centro Cultural del Mezcal won a prestigious Paris design award, bringing international recognition to the carefully restored 17th-century building that houses an interactive museum, bar and restaurant celebrating mezcal.
In sports, Mexico City’s Yareli Acevedo made history as the first Latin American woman to win the points race at the UCI Track Cycling World Championships, furthering what observers are calling a golden age for Mexican cycling.
Monterrey youth won the prestigious Iris Prize for their project, Journey to the Microcosm of Nuevo León. The citizen science initiative invites residents of the Monterrey metropolitan area and beyond to get to know the Santa Catarina River, which, in recent years, has been seen more as a flood risk than a valuable part of the city’s ecosystem.
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Travel news
Aviation news dominated the travel sector this week. The Trump administration announced on Wednesday that it would revoke 13 flight routes between the U.S. and Mexico, while thick fog caused delays at Mexico City International.
Also this week, a federal judge ruled that Uber can legally operate at Mexico’s airports, temporarily settling a years-long saga between airport authorities and taxi permit holders, who are demanding the government maintain their exclusive pick-up rights.
Uber celebrated the news and said that Mexico will need to ensure efficient transportation for the millions of tourists who will arrive during the 2026 FIFA World Cup.
In the Riviera Maya, the cruise ship high season got underway with the arrival of nearly 100,000 tourists to Cozumel.
Butterfly brigades
Authorities and community groups mobilized to protect the iconic monarch butterfly this week. In the Yucatán Peninsula, a community group is mapping a previously undiscovered monarch migration pathway reaching Isla Mujeres, expanding understanding of these remarkable insects’ continental journey.
Profepa also cracked down on illegal logging in Michoacán’s butterfly reserve, working to protect their critical winter habitat from ongoing threats.
Looking ahead
As Mexico enters November, the broader picture suggests underlying economic strengths — record exports and sustained foreign investment — are helping Mexico to ride out the Trump-era tariffs and global uncertainty.
This week, Sheinbaum’s handling of the boat strikes showcased the delicate diplomacy required to defend Mexico’s sovereignty in the bilateral fight against organized crime.
And next week, French President Emmanuel Macron will make a brief visit to Mexico, as Sheinbaum seeks to strengthen ties beyond North America and diversify Mexico’s international partnerships.
Mexico News Daily
This story contains summaries of original Mexico News Daily articles. The summaries were generated by Claude, then revised and fact-checked by a Mexico News Daily staff editor.
