Lime packers are on strike again and this time, some farmers are considering joining their cause. (Juan José Estrada Serfaín/Cuartoscuro)
Organized crime is once again strangling the lime industry in the state of Michoacán as five lime-packing houses decided to strike and shut down operations to protest the lack of security.
The packing houses say they might continue their work-stoppage through Wednesday, the day farmers are set to harvest their crop. Lime farmers — many of whom expressed a willingness to join the work-stoppage — told Milenio newspaper that the packing houses are located in Apatzingán and Buenavista.
Extortion at multiple stages of the supply chain has pushed up the price of limes while cutting producers’ profits. (Mario Jasso / Cuartoscuro.com)
Both packers and farmers have been urging authorities to take action because, despite existing security measures, extortion remains a serious concern for the entire industry.
Elements of organized crime “demand payments from the producer, the packer, the shipper, the wholesaler and even at the final point of sale,” Juan Carlos Anaya, director general of GCMA, a farmers’ market consultancy, told Reforma newspaper. “The entire chain of production is threatened by insecurity.”
In June, the United States paused safety inspections for avocados and mangos in Michoacán due to a security incident involving U.S. Department of Agriculture staff. After a 10-day suspension, inspections restarted pending a new security model.
Last year in September, 600 soldiers deployed to Michoacán to re-establish security in the lime-growing region. Organized crime had targeted the state’s lime industry, causing prices to spike, while also exerting control over avocado production. The ongoing extortion practices are again causing lime prices to soar while reducing producers’ profit margins, Anaya said.
Michoacán is Mexico’s No. 2 producer of limes and is the world’s No. 1 producer of avocados. But it is not the only state facing extortion-related violence.
Headline, or overall, inflation fell to 3.59% in January. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
Consumer confidence in Mexico declined in July compared to June, but remains higher than a year earlier, according to official data published on Monday.
National statistics agency INEGI reported that the consumer confidence index (ICC) declined 0.4 points between June and July to reach 46.9. On a year-over-year basis, the ICC increased 0.6 points.
Mexicans were less optimistic in July than a month earlier about their capacity to save some of their income, go on a vacation in the next 12 months and buy a car. (Cuartoscuro)
The index score is calculated based on responses to a range of questions in the National Survey on Consumer Confidence.
INEGI, in conjunction with the Bank of Mexico, conducted the survey at 2,336 homes in cities across all 32 federal entities during the first 20 days of July.
It asked respondents about:
Their current economic situation compared to a year earlier.
Their expected economic situation over the next 12 months.
Their opinion about Mexico’s current economic situation compared to 12 months earlier.
Their opinion about Mexico’s expected economic situation over the next 12 months.
Their current capacity to purchase furniture, a television, a washing machine and other home appliances compared to their capacity 12 months earlier.
Their responses — derived from the options of much better, better, the same, worse and much worse with regard to the first four questions, and greater, the same or lesser with respect to the fifth — were weighted and used to formulate the ICC score.
The biggest driver of the month-over-month decrease in consumer confidence was a decline of 0.7 points in the sub-index that measures perceptions of Mexico’s economic outlook over the coming year. The four other sub-indexes also declined compared to June, with the reductions ranging between 0.3 and 0.4 points.
The survey also found that Mexicans were less optimistic in July than a month earlier about their capacity to save some of their income, go on a vacation in the next 12 months and buy a car (new or used) in the next two years.
#TomaNota ✍🏼 El @INEGI_INFORMA publicó hoy el Indicador de Confianza del Consumidor (#ICC) de julio de 2024 y los resultados indican que la confianza del consumidor tuvo una disminución ⬇️ mensual y un aumento ⬆️anual.
🧵Te explicamos más en este mini hilo. pic.twitter.com/jrKmvXJSMl
Another issue on consumers’ minds is inflation: the National Consumer Price Index rose for a fifth consecutive month in July, with annual headline inflation hitting 5.57%.
Meanwhile, unemployment ticked up to 2.8% in June from 2.6% in May, and the Mexican peso has weakened considerably since the June 2 elections, making imported goods more expensive.
The peso was trading at 19.08 to the US dollar shortly after 1 p.m. Mexico City time, down from a closing position of 18.83 to the greenback on Friday, and 17.01 just before the comprehensive victory of Claudia Sheinbaum and the ruling Morena party in the presidential and congressional elections on the first Sunday in June.
El Mayo's account of events on July 25 — released by his lawyer — suggests he and others were tricked into attending a meeting in Culiacán. (Cuartoscuro)
Alleged Sinaloa Cartel leader Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada García has sought to set the record straight about the events leading up to his arrest in the United States last month.
He asserts that he was kidnapped and forced onto a U.S.-bound private plane after traveling to Culiacán, Sinaloa with the belief that he was going to help resolve a dispute between the Sinaloa governor and a former mayor of the state capital.
Some reports speculated that El Mayo might have made a deal with the U.S. government, but recent statements by Ambassador Ken Salazar and El Mayo himself confirm otherwise. (X)
In a statement sent to media outlets by his lawyer Frank Perez, Zambada also claimed that former mayor Héctor Cuen was killed “at the same time, and in the same place, where I was kidnapped” — a version of events that contradicts the official account of the politician’s murder.
The 76-year-old co-founder of the Sinaloa Cartel and Joaquín Guzmán López, a son of convicted drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán Loera, were arrested on July 25 after arriving at a small airport near El Paso, Texas.
Initial reports suggested that Guzmán López tricked Zambada into boarding a U.S.-bound plane by telling him they were going to inspect clandestine airstrips within Mexico.
However, Perez subsequently said that Guzmán López “forcibly kidnapped” his client before he was put on a plane bound for the United States. The lawyer also said that Zambada “neither surrendered nor negotiated any terms with the U.S. government” before he flew into the Doña Ana County airport, located about 25 kilometers northwest of El Paso near Santa Teresa, New Mexico.
United States Ambassador to Mexico Ken Salazar issued a statement on Friday that said that evidence “indicates that El Mayo was taken [to the U.S.] against his will.”
Salazar also said that Guzmán López “voluntarily” turned himself in to United States authorities.
Mi declaración acerca de los hallazgos sobre la custodia de Ismael Zambada García “El Mayo” y Joaquín Guzmán López #SeguridadCompartida
Both Zambada — who had avoided capture during a decades-long criminal career — and Guzmán López have pleaded not guilty to drug trafficking and other charges they face.
On the day of their arrest, the U.S. Justice Department said in a statement that both men face “multiple charges in the United States for leading the [Sinaloa] Cartel’s criminal operations, including its deadly fentanyl manufacturing and trafficking networks.”
“I was ambushed. A group of men assaulted me”
In his statement, Zambada said there have been “many inaccurate reports” about the events leading up to his arrest, and affirmed that he was providing “the true facts.”
“… I wish to say at the outset that I did not turn myself in, and I did not come voluntarily to the United States. Nor did I have any agreement with either government. To the contrary, I was kidnapped and brought to the U.S. forcibly and against my will,” he said.
Zambada said that Guzmán López asked him to attend a meeting to help resolve a dispute between Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha Moya and Cuén over who should head up the Autonomous University of Sinaloa (UAS).
On July 25, Zambada said he went to a ranch and event center just outside Culiacán where the supposed meeting was to take place.
Upon arriving, El Mayo said he saw “a large number of armed men wearing green military uniforms” who he assumed were gunmen for Guzmán López and his brothers, collectively known as “Los Chapitos.”
Zambada said he entered the property with two security personnel: a commander in the State Judicial Police of Sinaloa, José Rosario Heras López and Rodolfo Chaidez, “a long-time member of my security team.”
Zambada says the former mayor of Culiacán Héctor Cuén Ojeda was present at the meeting where he was “ambushed” on July 25. Cuén Ojeda was killed that same day. (Carlos Sicairos/Cuartoscuro)
“While walking toward the meeting area, I saw Héctor Cuen and one of his aides. I greeted them briefly before proceeding inside to a room that had a table filled with fruit. I saw Joaquín Guzmán Lopez, whom I have known since he was a young boy, and he gestured for me to follow him. Trusting the nature of the meeting and the people involved, I followed without hesitation. I was led into another room which was dark,” Zambada said.
“As soon as I set foot inside of that room, I was ambushed. A group of men assaulted me, knocked me to the ground, and placed a dark-colored hood over my head.”
Zambada said he was tied up, handcuffed and forced into the bed of a pick-up truck before being driven to a nearby landing strip and “forced” onto a private plane. During the “ordeal,” he said he was “subjected to physical abuse” causing “significant injuries” to his back, knee and wrists.
Once on the plane, Zambada said that Guzmán López removed the hood from his head and used zip ties to bind him to a seat.
He also said that Cuén — mayor of Culiacán between 2011 and 2012, founder of the regionally influential Sinaloa Party and rector of the UAS between 2005 and 2009 — was not shot at a gas station, as Sinaloa authorities have said. Rather, Zambada asserts that he was killed at the property outside Culiacán where he believed he was going to meet with the ex-mayor and Rocha Moya, who denied any knowledge of the meeting allegedly arranged for July 25, and who has said he was in Los Angeles that day.
El Mayo’s claim that was lured to the meeting on the understanding he was to meet with the Sinaloa governor — a representative of Mexico’s ruling Morena party — is not preposterous. Security analyst Chris Dalby told Mexico News Daily earlier this year that “playing ball” with the Sinaloa Cartel is “just part of the game” for municipal and state officials in parts of northern Mexico.
Zambada says he traveled to Culiacán on July 25 with the belief that he needed to help settle a dispute between Cuén and Rubén Rocha Moya, governor of Sinaloa. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)
In his statement, Zambada also said that Heras — who was reportedly El Mayo’s security chief in addition to being a police commander — and Chaidez disappeared the same day as his kidnapping and haven’t been seen since. He described Cuén as a “longtime friend” and lamented his death.
“I believe it is important for the truth to come out. This is what occurred, rather than the false stories that are circulating,” he said.
“I call on the governments of Mexico and the United States to be transparent and provide the truth about my abduction to the United States and about the deaths of Héctor Cuen, Rosario Heras, Rodolfo Chaidez and anyone else who may have lost their life that day.”
Zambada also called on “the people of Sinaloa to use restraint and maintain peace in our state.”
“Nothing can be solved by violence. We have been down that road before, and everyone loses,” he said.
Salazar: “It was not our plane, not our pilot”
In his statement, the United States ambassador described the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López as a “great victory” for both the U.S. and Mexico, asserting that the detentions will disrupt the trafficking of synthetic drugs such as fentanyl.
The U.S. was offering separate multi-million-dollar rewards for information leading to their arrest.
Salazar offered five points about the arrests of the two men.
Guzmán López surrendered voluntarily.
The evidence at the time of his arrival to the United States “indicates that El Mayo was taken against his will.”
No United States resources were used to facilitate Guzmán López’s surrender. “It was not our plane, not out pilot, not our people.”
No flight plan was presented to United States authorities before the private plane took off. “We understand that the flight began in Sinaloa and landed in Santa Teresa, New Mexico.”
The pilot is not a United States government employee nor was he hired by the U.S. government or “any U.S. citizen.”
Guzmán López’s lawyer, Jeffrey Lichtman, said in late July that his client hadn’t reached any agreement with U.S. authorities before arriving in the United States.
“We’ve got no agreement with the government. There has never been an agreement with the government with Joaquín Guzmán López. Period,” he said.
FGR investigating El Mayo’s alleged kidnapping
The Federal Attorney General’s Office (FGR) said in a statement on Sunday that immediately after the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López it opened an investigation into a range of “possible crimes” including the operation of an “illegal flight,” violation of migration and customs laws, kidnapping and treason.
The FGR has asked the Sinaloa Attorney General’s Office to cede responsibility for the investigation into the murder of Cuén to federal authorities due to its “possible link” to the events described by Zambada. (fiscaliasinaloa.mx)
The FGR said it subsequently initiated probes into “other crimes,” including homicide and “illegal deprivation of freedom,” or abduction.
In light of the statements issued by Zambada and Salazar, “specific” investigative tasks were carried out in “the area known as Huertos del Pedregal de Culiacán” and “the aerodrome possibly used in this case,” the FGR said.
Zambada said he was kidnapped at “the ranch and event center called Huertos del Pedregal.”
The FGR also said it has asked the Sinaloa Attorney General’s Office to cede responsibility for the investigation into the murder of Cuén to federal authorities due to its “possible link” to the events leading up to the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López.
Federal Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez said last week that Joaquín turned himself in to United States authorities after reaching an agreement to surrender with Ovidio, who was captured in Culiacán in early 2023 and extradited to the United States last September.
Seven boroughs of Mexico City got at least 30 mm of rain on Sunday, leading to severe flooding on several roadways. (Tajo Oveda/X)
Residents of Mexico City were hammered by heavy rain on Sunday afternoon, causing localized flooding in several areas south of the city.
At least three boroughs — Coyoacán, Tlalpan and Álvaro Obregón — were on red alert (50 to 70 mm of water), while an orange alert (30 to 49 mm) was issued for Cuajimalpa, Iztapalapa, Magdalena Contreras and Xochimilco.
💧🚨 Se aproximan equipos de emergencia para atender inundación en Hermenegildo Galeana y Calz. de Tlalpan, colonia Tlalpan Centro, @TlalpanAl
↔ 150 metros de espejo de agua con 40 centímetros de tirante.
Images shared on social media showed flooded streets and cars floating during Sunday’s storms. In some areas, the water level exceeded one meter in height.
Local authorities also reported fallen trees on main roads and buildings, including along Avenida Revolución in Benito Juárez and several streets of the San Francisco neighborhood in Coyoacán. The Universidad Panamericana (UP) in the Insurgentes Mixcoac neighborhood reported a downed tree on campus measuring nine meters in length and 30 centimeters in diameter.
Authorities also reported flooded houses in some areas.
Following the deluge, some vehicles were stranded due to mechanical breakdowns, while others got stuck around potholes and manholes, causing traffic chaos in the southern part of the city.
The city’s Comprehensive Risk Management and Civil Protection Ministry (SGIRPC) reported that emergency teams were working to clear the damaged streets of water and fallen trees.
Local authorities have called on the population to remain alert for “water currents on streets and avenues,” as well as fallen branches, trees and tarps.
Light rail service in Mexico City was suspended on Sunday between Huipulco and Xochimilco due to flooding along the tracks. (STECDMX)
More rain in the forecast for Mexico City and other states
Mexico City’s residents will see more rain tonight, according to the National Meteorological System (SMN). During the day, temperatures will remain warm with cloudy skies.
The Mexican monsoon will cause strong gusts of wind and heavy rains accompanied by lightning and potential hailstorms in several states across the country. Here is the rain forecast by region for Monday, Aug. 12.
Very heavy rains (75 to 150 mm): Jalisco, Colima and Michoacán.
Heavy rains (50 to 75 mm): Sonora, Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Durango, Nayarit, Guanajuato, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Chiapas and Veracruz.
Light rains(25 to 50 mm): San Luis Potosí, Querétaro, Hidalgo, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, State of Mexico, Mexico City, Tamaulipas and Tabasco.
Showers (5 to 25 mm): Baja California, Baja California Sur, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, Campeche, Yucatán and Quintana Roo.
Most of the country can expect persistent and scattered rainfall throughout the rest of the week.
Oxxo's parent company announced the purchase of 249 convenience stores in Texas and New Mexico. (Shutterstock)
Oxxo, the ubiquitous Mexican convenience store, is officially expanding to the southern United States.
More than one decade after opening its first and only storefront in Eagle Pass, Texas, parent company Femsa has acquired 249 convenience stores from Delek US Holdings. The stores acquired by Femsa are located in Texas and New Mexico.
Oxxo’s expansion to the United States is a decade in the making. The convenience store opened its first U.S. storefront in Eagle Pass, Texas in 2014, but closed it during the pandemic. (@SergioChapa/X)
Femsa filed a statement with the Mexican Stock Exchange (BMV) earlier this month reporting the US $385 million acquisition. The deal includes inventory and a small fuel transportation fleet, the companies said in separate news releases on Aug. 1.
José Antonio Fernández, CEO of Femsa’s retail operations, said: “At Femsa, we have a long-held ambition to enter the U.S. convenience and mobility industry, and this transaction represents the ideal way for us to take our first step in this compelling market.”
The transaction is subject to regulatory approval in the United States. The partners expect that to happen during the second half of 2024.
Oxxo is a Mexican chain of convenience stores and gas stations, which, with roughly 30,000 stores in over 17 countries, is the largest chain of convenience stores in Latin America.
Oxxo is wholly owned by Femsa (Fomento Económico Mexicano, S.A.B. de C.V.), a Mexican multinational beverage and retail company headquartered in Monterrey. It operates the largest independent Coca-Cola bottling group in the world and the largest convenience store chain in Mexico.
Delek US Holdings, based in Nashville, Tennessee, has assets in petroleum refining, logistics, pipelines, renewable fuels and convenience stores, 90 percent of which are located in Texas. Most Delek stores include a gas station under the DK and Alon brands.
Avigal Soreq, president and CEO of Delek, said: “The transaction creates an exciting opportunity for Delek US Retail and its employees as they become part of Femsa’s growth strategy in the United States.”
Femsa reiterated its long-held plans to expand into the United States in April, after divesting its shares of Heineken in 2023. According to the news site Expansión, Femsa director José Antonio Fernández told analysts in an earnings call that the company was evaluating opportunities in U.S. border states where customers were likely to be familiar with the Oxxo brand.
An earlier attempt to expand into the U.S. market was foiled by its Heineken holdings, according to Expansión. In 2014, Femsa was blocked by fair competition rules that declared the relationship with Heineken a conflict of interest for having an exclusive agreement to distribute the Dutch brewer’s beverages.
From sweeping beaches to heart stopping mountain vistas, Jalisco has it all. Find out why the MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Jalisco rates the state so highly. (Mexico Travel and Leisure)
With this instalment, the MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Jalisco, our extensive series, is nearing its mid-point. We’ve covered Mexico living in some diverse settings — both peninsulas (Baja and the Yucatan) along with cultural and coastal Oaxaca. This brings the total of Mexican states reviewed to five so far. It seems natural now to highlight Jalisco State, a cultural wellspring that has done more to define “Mexicanidad” than anywhere else. It’s also the place I’ve called home since 2015, exposing me to the State’s truths and myths when it comes to living here.
Our ratings highlight three very viable places to live — the quintessential beach vacation resort of Puerto Vallarta, fast-paced and forward leaning Guadalajara, and the de facto “birthplace” villages for overseas living for foreigners that are Lake Chapala. Having these three eclectic choices (not to mention twelve Pueblos Mágicos and three UNESCO World Heritage Sites) positions Jalisco as a kingpin for folks seriously seeking a viable place to live or retire in Mexico.
Verdant Jalisco is easily one of the most attractive places in Mexico for expat living. (Mexico Travel and Leisure)
Jalisco’s relevance stems from attributes no other state can match. First up are iconic cultural traditions innately associated with Mexico’s national image: tequila, mariachis and charros. Tequila (yes, it’s really a place) and Mexico’s joyous and sorrowful musical gift to the world are both a part of living here. Salud to that! The Jalisco economy is a powerhouse in technology, cinema (Hollywood auteur Guillermo del Toro hails from here), manufacturing, automobile production, agriculture, foreign remittances, foreign direct investment, medical care, and tourism. Much of Jalisco oozes prosperity, and there is a sense of political independence from the rest of Mexico. As for the climate? Well, its highland plateau offers spring-like year round living. The seasonally pleasant seacoast meanwhile, affords some residents a “seagull” existence with winters spent on the coast and the rest of the year in the mountains!.
Jalisco is, at its core, cowboy country. Its rural, socially conservative identity even permeates the temperament of big city Guadalajara. Less-than-welcome realities are narco violence and an embrace of “machismo” in some societal and familial settings. There are nagging social ills (teen pregnancy, gun violence and drinking water contamination) to consider. Unbridled growth across all three of our featured places is also impacting quality of life for both Mexicans and expats alike.
But no one should bet against Jalisco’s future — economically or socially. Put down roots here and you’ll have a front row seat to both the hyper-local (municipal government ups and downs) and big picture of Jalisco’s unbridled future.
Puerto Vallarta
A crowning jewel of Mexican beach living, Puerto Vallarta is hard to beat for anyone looking for a luxurious coastal lifestyle. (Garza Blanca)
Let’s start where millions of Americans embrace Jalisco, Puerto Vallarta. People fall hard for PV, many having a natural vacation connectionthat stretches back decades. As beach resorts go, it’s the place that comes closest to being all things to all vacationers in all of Mexico. With a population of 224,000, PV lost its fishing village virginity decades ago. But it’s still Mexico’s most picturesque coastal city.
Hugging the shore of Mexico’s largest natural bay, the epic Bay of Banderas, PV’s Malecon boardwalk is a top five Mexico experience at all hours of the day. The street food to gourmet dining selection is unsurpassed. Aquatic and inland eco-adventure stuff to do is also hard to beat. There’s also a heightened sense of place in the city’s architecture, color palate and vestiges of once-isolated village life in the city’s riverside downtown core, all of which feel very “Jalisco.” It’s all quite remarkable, really. In defiance of the high-rise tower invasion in the city’s Zona Romantica, neighborly relations and Mexican familial sensibilities prevail. Monumental change has been lurking for decades, but the PV “centro” is still a special place to live and visit.
Living here comes with a snappy urban resort pace mixed with pockets of residential and neighborhood community connections. It’s Mexico’s most LGBTQ-accepting destination and has a lively performing arts/live entertainment scene. An hour south is Jalisco’s emerging Costalegre, some of Pacific Mexico’s most beautiful, undeveloped coast.
Guadalajara
Guadalajata is Mexico’s second city, and it knows it. Architecture, food, culture and history abound in the streets of the sprawling state capital. (Kimkim)
“Guadalajara, Guadalajara…” so goes the popular mariachi song. With a population topping 5 million, this is Mexico’s second largest urban area with some 1,500 named neighborhoods. It stretches across a sloped plain that’s truncated in the north by a gapping gorge. Guadalajara is a contradiction when it comes to understanding its personality. It’s socially conservative, and stridently original in the visual and performing arts. It’s got more skyscrapers under construction than any city in Mexico, yet is home to cozy, leafy neighborhoods filled with parks, trees, and color. Guadalajara’s universities attract hundreds of foreign medical students. Paradoxically, there are surprisingly few museums to frequent.
I guess, “who needs stuffy museums,” when “tapatios” can rejoice at outdoors events and venues that host Mexico’s most diverse and robust monthly happenings: film, fashion, tequila (of course), microbreweries, sports — most notably soccer and baseball, but motorsport, athletics and even rugby have long traditions in the city — music, dance, books (the world’s second largest book fair), along with secular/religious happenings in stadiums, parks, expo centers, and historic buildings across the city. One online calendar of events highlights the 12 months of artsy things to do in Guadalajara.
Traffic snarls are part of everyday living, but so is an eclectic dining and bar scene, an American Society of Jalisco to help you get settled, and more live music than you could possibly take in. Mobility challenges can be mitigated by using bike lanes or the city’s excellent 18 station, 22 km-long metro line, crossing the city from northwest to southeast. Other lines are under construction. Mexico’s second largest airport is here, serving over 60 locations, non-stops to Europe, Central and South America).
Lake Chapala
Quiet Lake Chapala was traditionally the start of the Mexico living experience. It remains an excellent location for those looking for a home comforts in a foreign land. (Nicki Post)
If this is all too much stimulation, 45 minutes south is one of Mexico’s most iconic and original expatriate hang-outs. If lakeside village living is your calling, Lake Chapala might be your village in the sun. Lake Chapala living is clustered along the lake’s northwest shore. Across two municipalities, Chapala and Jocotepec, no one really knows how many foreign-born residents call this place home.
The numbers swell from October to March, exacerbating some automobile traffic challenges, rising rental costs, and the area’s water shortage. These growth concerns come with village and small-town settings (Chapala, San Antonio, Ajijic, San Juan Cosala, Jocotepec) inhabited by retirees from over 40 countries! The demographic is certainly “older,” but that doesn’t necessitate a nap on the hammock of things to keep you busy. Three English-language theater companies, a symphony, a community choir, the renowned Lake Chapala Society campus, Mexico’s longest standing weekly English lecture series, (Open Circle, and dozens of non-profit volunteer opportunities are relished in Mexico’s best year-round climate). Residents feel very safe being out at all hours. There is near zero homelessness.
The first pioneering foreigners living here started coming in the 1940’s. Lake Chapala boasts a very hybrid Mexico-a-la-Expat lifestyle. Foreigners and Mexicans live here in mostly symbiotic ways, with gentrification offset by a balanced commitment to helping the area thrive. If you want to embrace a social improvement cause, there’s a community of like-minded folk to connect with.
Yes, the lake itself is facing ecological challenges. But few living here connect with the lake beyond gazing at its majesty, backed by verdant mountains rising three thousand feet above the lake-facing towns. Will growth continue to eat away Lake Chapala’s mountainscape and drain over-taxed water wells? It’s a fair criticism.
Jalisco State is home to resort, urban and village settings. It’s pretty unbeatable for just about any overseas living aspiration. Or combine all three and show your friends and family up north a Mexico living reality they can barely imagine.
Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.
For anyone within driving distance, the fiercely wild Costalegre makes a perfect weekend escape. (All photos by Meagan Drillinger)
The best weekend getaways from Puerto Vallarta are classics for a reason. Everyone loves Sayulita for its bohemian beach vibes, while the mountain village of San Sebastian de Oeste wows travelers with its cooler climates and misty mountain views. But my favorite way to escape the buzzy (beloved) chaos of Puerto Vallarta is to drive about four hours down the coast to the spectacular Costalegre for the perfect weekend escape.
The Costalegre is heaven on earth. Nearly 200 miles of undeveloped Pacific shoreline unfold between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo. Epic waves thunder down onto golden beaches while pumas and jaguars slink through the thick, muggy jungle. Small villages spring up and down Highway 200 — places where you’ll find very few tourists and where little has changed in daily life over the decades.
While the Costalegre looks set to explode in popularity, the coastline is currently an underdeveloped paradise for those seeking sun, sand and relaxation.
This isn’t to say that the Costalegre isn’t growing. New resorts are opening up, and there is getting more and more press — much to the chagrin of Costalegre diehards, including myself. And yes, I recognize the hypocrisy in writing about it now. But because I love it here so much, I want others to love it and spend time here correctly. So, without further ado, this is my insider’s guide to the perfect weekend in Costalegre.
Thursday
Fly into Puerto Vallarta International Airport and rent a car. I like to make all my reservations with Gecko Rent-A-Car. The prices here are a little higher for a daily rate, but the customer service is outstanding. All the cars are in excellent condition, and all the prices are provided upfront and include all the necessary insurance. You’ll never be surprised by any extra fees. The company even offers complimentary airport pickup and drop-off. Of course, if you are loyal to another car rental service, Puerto Vallarta has many other international car rental companies like Hertz, Budget, and Enterprise.
After picking up your car, you are ready to drive the four hours to Barra de Navidad, which is at the end (or the beginning, depending on how you look at it) of the Costalegre. Don’t worry about missing anything along the way — you’ll be backtracking to see all the sights once you arrive.
Barra de Navidad has a handful of hotel options. The “fanciest” is the Grand Isla Navidad Resort, which is on the peninsula that helps frame the lush, wildlife-filled lagoon. For something more boutique and on the beach, Villa Star of the Sea is on an open stretch of beach in the bordering state of Colima, about a 25-minute drive from Barra de Navidad. You can also find funky short-term rentals if you want to stay directly in town.
Hotel options in the Costalegre are often high-end, luxurious boutique experiences.
Friday
Morning
Wake up early to take advantage of the (slightly) less humid morning. Days can get hot along the Costalegre, especially if you’re visiting between April and October. That said, this is the greenest time of year to visit when the mountains and fields are popping with every shade of jade and emerald.
Grab a light breakfast in the brightly colored courtyard of Mango Cafe. The pancakes with blueberry compote are insane. Or you can have the hearty molletes or chilaquiles. Don’t skip a fresh fruit smoothie, too.
Afterward, head over to the Malecon, where you’ll find many people offering boat rides around the lagoon. The lush lagoon is cushioned between mountains and the Pacific Ocean, with a soundtrack of sputtering fishing boats and the calls of migratory birds. It’s a beautiful way to get acquainted with Barra de Navidad and the tropical scenery of southern Jalisco.
Afternoon
Quiet Melaque is a shinign example of Costalegre living.
When you return from your cruise, it will be just in time for lunch. I recommend Mariscos Chicha for waterfront dining. Or, if you are hankering for some seriously good fish tacos, you can find incredible ones near the Abarrotes Arce grocery store. A simple sign that says “Fish Tacos” will point you toward succulent fish, shrimp, and octopus tacos.
Evening
Hop back in the car for the 10-minute drive over to the sister village, Melaque. Melaque is much smaller than Barra de Navidad, but has arguably more beautiful beaches, in my opinion. Walk along the broad crescent-shaped shoreline and stop at one of the many beachfront bars for a cold drink.
For dinner, grab a front-row seat at Albatros Restaurant & Bar for sunset and live music. Many of the beachfront restaurants in Melaque close their kitchens early, but Albatros stays open well into the evening.
Saturday
Morning
After breakfast, you’ll hit the road to check out some of the other rugged and naturally beautiful beach towns along the Costalegre. About 30 minutes north of Barra de Navidad are the broad, sweeping beaches of Tenacatita Bay. This jewel of a beachfront sits at the end of a very long, jungle-shrouded road that passes through a few smaller communities. Tenacatita Bay is famous for its clear waters, snorkeling, kayaking, and paddle boarding.
Tenacatita bay offers crystal clear water for those looking to explore the opportunities of the Pacific Ocean.
Late Morning
After an active morning, drive to La Manzanilla, another small (but funky) beach town on the other side of the bay. La Manzanilla is famous for its wildlife, particularly the crocodile sanctuary, where you can see these prehistoric creatures up close. Grab lunch at the beachfront Bahia Azul for heaping scoops of guacamole and colorfully fresh ceviche.
Afternoon
You can keep the theme low-key and head to Boca de Iguana, another undeveloped and pristine beach, or you can treat yourself to a little luxury. The ultra-luxe Four Seasons Resort Tamarindo is between La Manzanilla and Tenacatita Bay and a splurge-worthy treat for an afternoon spa treatment. Stay for sunset and have dinner at their stunningly beautiful open-air, oceanfront Sal restaurant.
Sunday
Morning
It’s time to depart, sadly. But Sunday is still filled with enough adventure to enjoy your final hours along the Costalegre.
Begin the drive north from Barra de Navidad. Stop in the small beachfront village of Perula for a final oceanfront seafood lunch. Mariscos Chee Chee is the best in town for its quiet corner of the beachfront, friendly service, and beautiful views of Chamela Bay.
Mariscos Chee Chee offers an exceptional view of the bay and equally exceptional seafood to accompany it.
Afternoon
As you get closer to Puerto Vallarta, you can stop at the town of El Tuito, a mountain town in the Sierra Madres about an hour outside of Puerto Vallarta. Grab a pick-me-up cup of coffee at Café CabCor. If you have time and energy for sightseeing, you can visit the Galeria Coppelia art gallery.
Late Afternoon
Arrive back in Puerto Vallarta just in time for a final meal and one last sunset. You’ll be spoiled for choice in Puerto Vallarta when it comes to the best restaurants, but for a farewell meal and one final sunset show, I always like to eat at El Barracuda with a table directly on the sand.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
The town of Cuetzalan in Puebla state is home to some of Mexico's most stunning artisans and their works. More than that, however, it's a window into a picture perfect vision of rural Mexico. (All photos by Monica Belot)
Since relocating to Mexico, I, perhaps like many others, have developed an unexpected passion for crafts. It’s impossible not to, with the plethora of stunning “artesanías” the country has to offer. Nowhere is this more obvious than in the town of Cuetzalan, Puebla.
“Crafts” is not nearly adequate enough of a word to do justice to Mexican artesanías. It brings to my mind childish “arts and crafts” or knick-knacks from a fair. In Mexico, artesanías are more akin to exquisite handmade arts — very intentional creations for display or usage, of admirable quality and materials, often using near-ancient methods passed down from generation to generation for centuries. It’s particularly delightful when one encounters talented artisans experimenting with modern designs using traditional production techniques. From region to region, artesanías vary, reflecting the area’s native materials, its style, and traditions.
While the term “crafts” conjured up an almost childish fascination with creativity, Mexican artesans create intricate, delicate works of art.
It was this allure of artesanías and fascination with indigenous culture that drew our trio — Lourdes, Bethany, and myself — to Cuetzalan, though crafts as I had imagined them were not quite what we found there.
We set out from Mexico City on a Thursday morning. I had packed my habitual giant bag of snacks: raisin and walnut baguettes from Rosetta, bananas, dates, dark chocolate and a relatively unappetizing Cliff bar for emergencies. The plan was to drive to Puebla, the halfway point, spend a night and continue onward to Cuetzalan the following morning.
Puebla proved to be a treat. We enjoyed a tourist-free jaunt around the city, browsed antique markets, dined at the delightful Oaxacan restaurant Casa Bacuuza and enjoyed several hours sunning ourselves at the hotel’s rooftop pool. In the morning, we stopped at the glass factory Fábrica de Vidrio la Luz, and after excitedly ogling a Mexican actor we recognized from a Netflix show from behind a rack of margarita glasses, we set off for Cuetzalan.
The roads became winding and misty as we ascended to the city, dotted with cattle, horses, and chickens mingling on the side of the road. About an hour and a half from our destination, we stopped at a small roadside vendor to stock up on some of the crunchiest and most flavorful apples we’d ever tasted.
Bethany and Lourdes at the Hotel Cuetzalan.
Two hours, dozens of kilometers of winding roads and 38 songs later, we arrived at our hotel in Cuetzalan. Being the adventurous exploradoras we were, we had opted for an eco-hotel run by indigenous women, which was very much akin to cabins or glamping. In hindsight, other accommodations might be more comfortable for those such as myself, who are averse to the inherent dirt, mosquitoes and the excessive moisture that creeps into such structures. I had romanticized the experience in my mind, but nevertheless the surrounding nature was undeniably lovely.
Having donned our raincoats and with our belongings situated in our cabins, we ventured out into a storm to find a glass of strong mezcal and a cozy restaurant for dinner.
While not number one rainiest spot in the country, Cuetzalan is still one of the rainiest areas in Mexico. Set high up in the Sierra Norte hills in northern Puebla State, the region enjoys a warm and humid climate due to its proximity to the Gulf of Mexico. The rainfall contributes to its lush, jungle-like vegetation and numerous waterfalls. The town itself is a maze of steep, cobblestone streets carefully designed for grip in the perpetual dampness. It’s built along a multitude of sloping boulevards, paths, and streets. As Bethany would later aptly caption an Instagram post accompanying a photo of the town, “Hills, hills, hills.”
Our first evening led us to Taol, an exceptional restaurant efficiently run by what seemed to be an all-woman team. It was a dream, set in a mystical indoor-outdoor space where we watched the rain from a covered garden patio as we sipped our cocktails. We devoured chicken over warm banana bread bathed in mole, an entire fresh grilled fish, queso sizzling over cecina and steaming corn tortillas.
Taol was the epitome of traditional Mexican cuisine, cooked to perfection.
Afterwards, overstuffed and guided by the glow of mezcal in our bellies, we stopped into a very local bar — think Cheers, but most likely someone’s converted living room — to enjoy a glass of the region’s traditional liquor, Yolixpa. Yolixpa, Nahuatl for“medicine of the heart,” is very much like Cuetzalan — a mix of everything. It combines up to twenty to thirty herbs, including hierbabuena (spearmint), fennel, mint, and lemon verbena with a base spirit, usually made of distilled sugarcane. It’s rumored to cure everything from heartache to illness, and it certainly provided a hearty start to our adventure as we made our way back to our lodgings.
Cuetzalan’s “bread and butter,” our guide Ricardo would inform us the next morning, is tourism. Even so, despite being a tourist destination, Cuetzalan has largely escaped commercialization. It’s a study in contrasts: charming yet gritty, nature-filled yet bustling, small-town Mexican rustic crossed with remnants of Spanish colonial architecture. Many of the men wear ranchero-style cowboy hats and leather belts, while the women don colorfully embroidered white huipils. It’s picturesque yet “real.” Live music blasts from quinceañeras set in giant barn-like halls while, in the town square next to the incredibly opulent Parish of St. Francis of Assisi, “Voladores” (flying men) soar and spin, suspended from a high pole. Below them, vendors sell their wares in a market, as families share a meal together in neighboring restaurants. Down the street, at the Iglesia de los Jarritos, a 19th-century monastery surrounded by a gloomy cemetery hosts murmuring lovers seated among the parapets, while cemetery visitors pray at the graves of their deceased loved ones. There is so much going on that it’s almost absurd, but it’s all so fascinating.
On our second day, I was not opposed when Lourdes — a bit of a daredevil and adrenaline junkie — suggested we embark upon a 6-hour tour of some of Cuetzalan’s caves, grottos and waterfalls. The tour would encompass several ziplines hundreds of meters above Cuetzalan’s valleys, a trek through an underground river, and my first experience rappelling, descending 60 meters by rope into the impressive Chichicazapan cave. It was magical.
As well as the charming town, the nature of Cuetzalan should not be missed.
The next day before departing, we explored Cuetzalan’s famed Sunday market. The region is renowned for its fragrant coffee, which is grown on plantations in the surrounding hills. It’s also celebrated for its textiles, including intricately embroidered blouses and quechquemitls (one-piece shawls) created using traditional techniques like back-strap loom weaving.
As a last stop on our way to Mexico City, chasing a lead from a staff member of our hotel, we passed through the tiny town of San Miguel Tenextatiloyan — nicknamed “the town of clay pots.” The town is rumored to have been producing clay artesanías since pre-hispanic times and it did not disappoint. The handmade clay pieces were a crafts-lover’s dream.
So the next time you find yourself in need of a weekend escape, consider Cuetzalan. It isn’t just a destination: it’s an unforgettable escape filled with authenticity and adventure that will throw your senses into a tizzy. Just remember to pack your sense of humor and an umbrella.
Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.
Also known as the prickly pear, tuna fruit is delicious, nutritious and uniquely Mexican. (Hal Wilson/500px)
I often think about those first human beings who dared to try different fruits. I get caught by questions like, “How hungry do you have to be to risk your life, or at least your hand, to grab a fruit surrounded by thorns, like a nopal or a tuna? Were they just reckless? Was grabbing these with your bare hand aninitiation rite to be accepted among the Aztecs?” These questions keep me up at night.
What is a tuna fruit?
Seen here: not a fish. (Wish Garden Herbs)
We are not talking about the fish, in case you’re confused. For us Mexicans, tuna or prickly pear is a native round fruit that grows on top of the nopal cactus. There are six types of prickly pears, and you can differentiate them by color: red, yellow, white, green, orange, and purple. I’m focusing on the red one because it is a common variety, and the flavor is extraordinarily nice to the taste buds.
What does red tuna taste like?
I might be romanticizing its flavor, but I’ll do my best to be objective. First, you get a sweet taste, almost like berries. Then there’s a tangy note, and finally a fresh burst similar to watermelon. It’s like eating a bolero melody, honestly. If you are worried about the texture, it resembles a kiwi or a pear with seeds.
Think of it like any other fruit, and have fun with it. Here are some ideas to get you started:
Cut off the ends of the prickly pear, peel off the skin, and enjoy it.
Make juice! To start your journey with this fruit, mix the red tuna juice with orange juice.
Freeze it and use it in a smoothie. Red prickly pear and mango smoothie is a must-try.
Passionate about salads? Add red tuna cubes to kale, cucumber, avocado, coriander, lime juice, and olive oil. You won’t regret it!
Are you “fit” during the weekdays like me? Quinoa bowl with red prickly pear and feta cheese.
Sweet tooth? Greek yogurt with honey, and red prickly pear. The color that the yogurt takes on with the prickly pear is exceptionally Instagrammable if you’re feeling like an influencer.
The best season to eat tuna fruit
They are available all year, but the best season goes from July to September.
Fun facts about tuna fruit
Tuna fruit often appears in pre-Hispanic art, a testament to how important it has been to the local diet. (Mexicolore)
During pre-Hispanic times, it was a predominant and valued fruit, especially for people living in arid areas since it provided them with the nutrients and water they needed to survive. For this reason, it was also a symbol of fertility.
Tuna is the Spanish-derived word of the Nahuatl word “Tonalli”. It was used to refer to the concepts of time ,and the nature cycles, but also to point out the close relationship between the environment and the well-being of a person. It is believed that the meaning of the word “tonali” applied to the fruit was then the description of something that allowed human survival in the cycles of nature.
It has scientifically proven health benefits, like reducing the risk of developing chronic diseases when eaten regularly.
Finally, while eating your prickly pear, play the song “Me he de comer esa tuna” by Jorge Negrete, the OG charro. The song talks about how stubborn we Mexicans are: “I have to eat that prickly pear even if it pricks my hand”, says the song.
María Melénedez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek met with a group of young journalism students in Querétaro for a study abroad program, and shares his experience. (Shutterstock)
I wrote a column back in April posing a question: Why don’t more students from the U.S. and Canada choose to study abroad in Mexico?
Given the close connections between these countries, the increasing business opportunities and the huge Mexican population living north of the border, it seems only logical that more students would want to study in Mexico.
Of course, there are some obvious obstacles that get in the way of more exchange programs — as pointed out by some readers.
But I was delighted when, shortly after the article was published, I received an email from a professor at the University of Oregon who was about to take a group of journalism students to Querétaro for a summer abroad program.
The professor asked if I would spend some time with the class talking about journalism in Mexico, which I was more than happy to do.
After our time together, we decided to have our lead editors at Mexico News Daily select and publish the top two articles written by the journalism students during their studies in Querétaro.
Travis enjoyed meeting and talking to the journalism students in Querétaro. (Courtesy)
Keep an eye out this coming week for the two best student stories here on MND.
“Why don’t more students study abroad in Mexico?” asked Travis Bembenek in a Mexico News Daily op-ed.
I read the piece as I was packing for a summer in Querétaro with twelve outstanding University of Oregon journalism students. My faculty colleagues were taking students out of their U.S. cocoons too, but to more usual locales along what I tend to dismiss as the London-Paris-Rome axis. Nothing wrong with Europe, but fighting mobs of tourists — too many in Bermuda shorts yelling in American-accented English — holds little allure for me.
Mexico, especially for journalism students, makes perfect sense. As Bembenek argues, it’s our neighbor and its people our cousins. Let’s get to know each other.
Yet faculty colleagues, plenty of students, and — understandably — parents howled the usual litany of concerns. Cartels! Corruption! Migration! Not to negate the importance of those stories (and that reality), but we weren’t heading south to report on what a reporter friend of mine calls “the dismal details of the daily downer.” The idea was to mix with the locals and find out how some average Josés live their lives.
Querétaro is ideal for the assignment. There are plenty of tourists, but most are locals (the gringos are just up the road in San Miguel!). The city bustles with business and social successes as it revels in the crucial role it played in New World liberation from Europe.
I’m pleased to introduce MND readers to a handful of student work examples. We invite you to stroll the Querétaro streets with us — meet a cobbler working against throwaway culture, or hear an argument in favor of raising fighting cocks versus chickens destined for tacos.
We at MND are proud to support and encourage future journalists, and we hope you enjoy reading their stories next week.
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.
