Saturday, May 17, 2025

AMLO issues new decree in response to Supreme Court ruling

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AMLO at morning press conference
After his 2021 decree that established his administration's infrastructure projects as essential to "national security" was struck down on Thursday, AMLO issued a new decree that established these projects as "strategic". (Gob MX)

Another battle in the war between the federal government and Mexico’s top court played out on Thursday.

President López Obrador responded to a Supreme Court (SCJN) ruling against a 2021 decree that sought to fast-track and protect the federal government’s infrastructure projects by issuing a new similar decree.

Mexican Supreme Court
Mexico’s Supreme Court is composed of 11 judges. The court ruled Thursday that a presidential decree from November 2021 is unconstitutional. (SCJN)

The Supreme Court ruled Thursday that a decree issued by the president in November 2021 that established the government’s infrastructure projects as matters of public interest and national security is unconstitutional.

That decree shielded from legal challenges and scrutiny the construction of infrastructure projects in a wide range of sectors, including transportation, telecommunications, customs, water, tourism, health, the environment and energy. It also instructed government agencies to grant provisional authorizations and permits to projects deemed to be of public interest and national security in a maximum period of five working days so as to ensure their timely execution.

The incomplete Maya Train railroad and the Felipe Ángeles International Airport, which began operations in March 2022, were among the government projects whose construction was affected by the issuance of court orders against them before the 2021 decree was published.

On Thursday morning, eight of 11 SCJN injustices voted in favor of invalidating López Obrador’s 2021 decree. The court is scheduled to consider specific parts of the document on Monday.

members of the Mexican Supreme Court
The 11 members of the Supreme Court, with Chief Justice Norma Piña in the center. (SCJN)

The court said in a statement that the first article of the decree broadened the range of information that can be reserved by the government. The change was made “via an administrative act” rather than through the law and thus contravened the constitution, the SCJN said.

Among other justifications for its ruling, the Supreme Court said that the decree “restricted the authority” of the National Transparency Institute (INAI) to “guarantee compliance with its transparency obligations.”

The court’s ruling came in response to a lawsuit filed by INAI, which argued that the decree violated people’s right to access information and that the government exceeded its powers by publishing it.

Justice Juan Luis González Alcántara, who proposed the invalidation of the decree to his colleagues, said there were “sufficient arguments” to reach the conclusion that there was a negative impact on the right to access information.

Justice González Alcántara
Supreme Court Justice Juan Luis González Alcántara proposed the invalidation of the decree to the court. (SCJN)

The decree is “unconstitutional” because its “breadth and ambiguity hinder and inhibit access to information … with respect to projects of the government of Mexico,” he said.

Hours after the court handed down its decision, López Obrador published a new decree in the government’s official gazette that established a narrower range of infrastructure projects and assets as matters of national security and public interest.

Those covered are the Maya Train railroad, the Isthmus of Tehuantepec trade corridor and the Palenque, Chetumal and Tulum airports. The railroad, trade corridor and Tulum airport are currently under construction, while the Palenque and Chetumal airports are operated by the government.

The new decree said that the “construction, operation [and] maintenance” of the projects and assets are matters of national security and public interest.

“Mexico, being one of the largest countries of the world [in area] and the 11th most populated, is exposed to multiple risks and threats including uncontrolled migration flows, organized crime, government corruption, climate change, disturbing phenomenons, the collapse of strategic facilities or critical infrastructure … and problems at the southern and northern border,” it said.

Sedena equipment to build the Maya Train
The Defense Ministry has been involved with the construction of the Maya Train and will also be operating the project. This equipment was sent to assist construction in 2022. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)

The decree said that the Isthmus of Tehuantepec interoceanic corridor and associated infrastructure are “strategic” due to their location between the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.

Due to their geographical location, the Palenque, Chetumal and Tulum airports are “strategic for surveillance and control of airspace at the southern border, which allows the detection and timely interception of unidentified aircraft that could carry out illegal acts … [that threaten] national security and territorial integrity,” the decree said.

The Maya Train railroad was described as “the most important project of infrastructure, socio-economic development and tourism in the present six-year period of government.”

In a separate designation last year, the government’s National Security Council (CSN) established the Maya Train railroad as a project of national security, a move also designed to prevent it from being stopped or delayed by legal challenges. The CSN made a similar designation for the Isthmus of Tehuantepec trade corridor earlier this month.

López Obrador on Friday said that protecting the five government projects and assets was essential to prevent “senseless, irresponsible, corrupt” and “unpatriotic” people from stopping them, “as has been their intention.”

The development of Mexico’s southeast would be adversely affected if projects under construction are stopped by the “caprices of these fifís corruptos,” or the corrupt elite, he said.

López Obrador asserted that groups that have applied for injunctions against government infrastructure projects are funded by the United States government.

He also asserted that there is no provision in his new decree to “deny information” about the government’s projects and dismissed claims that he wanted to conceal information about the Maya Train, including its cost, because the project is tainted by corruption.

Headquarters of the INAI, CDMX
The National Transparency Institute (INAI) cannot issue a legal challenge to AMLO’s decree – as it did against the 2021 decree – since it doesn’t have a quorum. Three commissioners’ positions (of seven) have been left vacant due to an impasse in the Senate. (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)

“No, we’re not the same, we’re not corrupt. What I consider most important is honesty,” López Obrador said

Establishing the projects as matters of national security and public interest doesn’t mean that information won’t be released about them, he emphasized.

The SCJN’s ruling against the president’s 2021 decree came 10 days after it struck down part of a controversial electoral reform package.

Last month, it ruled that the transfer of control over the National Guard from the civilian Security Ministry to the Defense Ministry was unconstitutional, a decision López Obrador asserted was based on political bias rather than legal criteria.

The president accuses the Supreme Court, and the broader judiciary, of being “rotten” and at the service of criminals and the country’s powerful elite rather than “the people.”

He said last week that he intends to propose a constitutional change so that citizens are tasked with electing the country’s Supreme Court justices and other judges. The success of such a proposal hinges on the ruling Morena party and its allies winning a congressional supermajority at next year’s federal elections.

INAI is not in a position to launch a legal challenge against López Obrador’s new decree because only four of the seven positions on its governing board, or pleno, are currently filled due to the federal Senate’s failure to appoint three new commissioners.

The transparency institute’s pleno – which cannot currently convene because it has one fewer commissioner than quorum – is the only INAI body with the authority to file the kind of lawsuit required to challenge the latest decree.

INAI, which has been described as “useless” by López Obrador, nevertheless said on Twitter that it is looking at “legal mechanisms to defend transparency and the right to access information about federal government infrastructure projects in the face of the new decree from the executive.”

With reports from El Financiero, El País, Reforma and El Universal 

US CDC issues alert over fungal meningitis outbreak in Tamaulipas

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Matamoros, Mexico
As of May 12, U.S. health authorities confirmed five patients have been diagnosed with fungal meningitis, and one has died following procedures conducted in Matamoros, Tamaulipas. (Wikimedia Commons)

The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has issued a travel alert and health advisory after U.S. residents who underwent surgical procedures in Matamoros, Tamaulipas, were diagnosed with suspected fungal meningitis.

In an advisory issued on Wednesday, the CDC said that as of May 12, five patients who traveled to the border city opposite Brownsville, Texas, had been diagnosed with suspected fungal meningitis, an infection of the protective membranes that surround the brain and spinal cord. The CDC said that all the patients have been hospitalized and one has died.

Permitting irregularities, fake doctors and bad practices were a few reasons some clinics were shuttered.
Matamoros is one of the primary Mexican destinations for U.S. medical tourism, offering procedures for lower prices and with usually high standards of care. (DepositPhotos)

“All these patients received epidural anesthesia and underwent cosmetic procedures [including liposuction]. Affected patients underwent procedures in at least two clinics in Matamoros, Mexico, including River Side Surgical Center and Clínica K-3. Other facilities might be identified through further investigation,” the public health agency said.

In its level 2 “practice enhanced precautions” alert, the CDC advised anyone who underwent a procedure involving an epidural injection of an anesthetic in Matamoros any time since Jan. 1, 2023, to monitor themselves for symptoms of meningitis, which include fever, headache, stiff neck, nausea, vomiting, confusion and sensitivity to light.

Anyone who experiences any of those symptoms after having a procedure in Matamoros should “go to a hospital emergency department immediately and tell them about your procedure and where you traveled,” the CDC said.

The Texas Department of State Health Service issued a similar alert, in which it noted that “all five patients traveled from Texas to Matamoros to get surgical procedures.”

The cause of the suspected meningitis cases has not yet been established.

The Tamaulipas government has shut down the two clinics identified by the CDC and authorities are investigating them for “presumed irregularities” that have placed patients’ health at risk, according to a government statement published Wednesday.

State Health Minister Vicente Joel Hernández Navarro said that authorities are seeking to contact 168 people who underwent procedures at the two clinics and may have contracted fungal meningitis. However, authorities believe that as many as 400 people could be at risk.

“Health authorities in the United States and Mexico are investigating the cause of the infections,” Hernández said.

Centro Médico K3
Centro Médico K-3 in Matamoros is one of the clinics under investigation. (Clínica K-3/Facebook)

Citing Health Ministry sources, the news website Elefante Blanco reported that an anesthesiologist who worked at both the River Side Surgical Center and Clínica K-3 is under investigation.

Mexico is a popular medical tourism destination due the lower prices on offer for many common procedures and the generally high standard of care. Northern border cities are particular popular with people who live in southern U.S. states.

The detection of suspected meningitis cases among people who underwent surgical procedures in Matamoros comes after an outbreak of the same illness in Durango last year.

A total of 79 patients – mainly women who had recently given birth – who had been given spinal anesthetics at private hospitals in Durango city were infected, and 35 died.

An anesthesiologist, the former head of Durango health regulator Coprised and an employee of that organization were arrested in February in connection with the deadly outbreak and ordered to stand trial.

Durango Attorney General Sonia de la Garza alleged that the anesthesiologist used contaminated medication and “improper procedures” in administering spinal blocks to patients.

With reports from El Financiero and La Silla Rota 

Kia Motors and Sungwoo Hitech to expand production in Nuevo León

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Samuel Garcia in South Korea
Samuel García (left), governor of Nuevo León, visited South Korea this week and met with business leaders, in his efforts to make his state the "green motor" of Mexico. (Samuel García/Twitter)

Governor of Nuevo León Samuel García announced this week that South Korean automobile manufacturer Kia Motors and parts manufacturer Sungwoo Hitech will expand their production in the northern state, to focus production on the electric vehicle (EV) market.

The news came as García traveled to the East Asian country this week for a forum seeking cooperation between Latin America and South Korea. Mexico’s Foreign Minister Marcelo Ebrard recently met with his South Korean counterpart to discuss the strengthening of trade ties between the two countries. 

Sungwoo Hitech currently manufactures EV batteries in Pesquería, Nuevo León. The company has announced a further US $300 million in the site. (Samuel García/Twitter)

García announced the Kia investment on Twitter, where he shared a photo of an EV9 SUV. 

“More good news! Nuevo León consolidates as the electromobility hub: Kia once again bets on Nuevo León with an investment to expand its plant and produce two Kia car models,” the tweet said. While he did not share many details, he suggested that the investment from Kia was “multi-billion.” 

“Nuevo León’s moment is today,” he added, saying that the “economic boom” will benefit everyone in the state “with new employment opportunities, a healthier environment and the best conditions for investments.” 

García said that the investment could reach around US $1 billion, but he later erased that part from the post. The company has not released details on the investment yet.

While the amount of the Kia investment in their Nuevo León plant expansion is yet to be confirmed, Governor García said that it would be in the billions of U.S. dollars. (Samuel García/Twitter)

According to García, Kia Motors’ investment will turn Nuevo León into the state that manufactures the most EVs in Mexico: the Tesla model (in March Tesla announced it will build a gigafactory in Nuevo León), Kia Motors’ models and the electric bus Navistar.

In 2016, Kia Motors opened a plant in Pesquería, Nuevo León, near the city of Monterrey to manufacture the Kia Forte and Kia Rio models. The plant employs 3,000 people, produces 400,000 vehicles per year and houses education and testing centers. It is the company’s only plant in Latin America. 

As well as announcing the expansion of the Kia plant, García said that Sungwoo Hitech will also expand its current production in Pesquería with an additional US $300 million investment, including in producing hydrogen-powered vehicles. This will be the third expansion by Sungwoo Hitech, with the first being in 2016. 

According to Cluster Industrial, the new factory will have a surface area of over 48,000 square meters and will generate 1,500 new jobs. 

García also said that he will look to bring the company’s research and manufacturing plant to Nuevo León. Sungwoo Hitech currently produces batteries for EVs and passenger drones in South Korea.

“Just as you heard it,” García said in a tweet, “[Sungwoo Hitech] manufactures electric cars, which are drones to transport cargo and passengers like a helicopter […] we want to bring this to Nuevo León.” 

García has declared he plans to turn Nuevo León into the “Silicon Valley of Mexico and Latin America.” While his plans for the state aim high, Mexico as a country still faces challenges for the domestic EV industry, such as a lack of infrastructure and price accessibility. However, even in the national market, sales of hybrids and electric vehicles have steadily risen. In January and February this year, 2,022 plug-in hybrid or fully electric vehicles were sold, representing an increase of 65.87% compared to the same months last year. 

 With reports from Energy World, La Lista and Cluster Industrial

Culinary stars align at upcoming San Miguel de Allende gastronomy festival

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Millesime festival in San Miguel de Allende
The Millesime festival will return to San Miguel de Allende for the second year, bringing world-class food, wine and spirits, fashion and luxury brands to three hotels around the city. (Photos courtesy of Millesime)

Back for a second year in San Miguel de Allende, the eagerly-awaited Millesime world gastronomy festival will draw fans of haute cuisine and innovative cooking from around the world next week, thanks to its impressive roster of chefs, winemakers and mixologists participating. 

The event, which holds multiple annual versions of its gastronomy festivals around the world, will take place in San Miguel de Allende from May 25–28 across three city hotels: the Rosewood, Hotel Casa 1810, and Hotel Casa Blanca 7. The event is expected to draw around 3,000 visitors, according to the Millesime website.

Chefs at the Millesime World festival
The Millesime festival has gained a reputation for attracting many of the world’s best chefs.

In addition to fine food and drink, there will also be cutting-edge luxury brands, accessory designers, crystalware manufacturers and fashion houses, all set to turn San Miguel de Allende into a landing point for high-end cuisine, clothing and other products. 

The Rosewood will set up tents in its hotel garden for events being held during the entire festival, including a special brunch and tastings from 12 different Mexican chefs. Live shows, product presentations and guided tastings will all be on the schedule. 

At Hotel Casa 1810, famed chef Lucia Freitas of Restaurante A Tafona in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, will be accompanied by Mexican chef Carlos Gaytan, the owner of Tzuco restaurant in Chicago. 

These two chefs have developed a special six-course menu for the event that includes pairings with some of the best wines and spirits from around the world. Diners will also enjoy a welcome cocktail crafted especially for the event by mixologists at some of the world’s biggest liquor brands.

A woman holding a cocktail
Millesime has also become a hub for fashion houses.

At Hotel Casa Blanca 7, Chef Diego Oka from Miami’s La Mar restaurant (created by world-renowned Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio) will join Chef Rodrigo de la Calle from Madrid’s El Invernadero restaurant for a special menu. 

These are just a few of the famous faces that Millesime has attracted from the culinary world for the event. Beyond special dinners, there will be circuits throughout the day where guests can try dishes from some of the best chefs in Mexico and some of the country’s best wine and cocktails. 

Millesime first came to Mexico in 2010, under the Estudio Millesime moniker, held at Mexico City’s Hotel St. Regis. Estudio Millesime served exclusive dinners the St. Regis’ classically decorated bar, hosted by visiting chefs from around the world.

These first versions of the festival in Mexico were held exclusively in the capital. Brands were chosen carefully to maintain the event’s high quality and make it one of the best yearly festivals in Mexico City. Now, for the second year running, this event has expanded to San Miguel de Allende. 

The annual Mexico City event continues to take place. This year, it will be held from Nov. 22–24 at the Centro Citibanamex.

  • Weekend tickets for the San Miguel event, as well as individual event tickets, currently available via Ticketmaster. Tickets for the November event in Mexico City are expected to go on sale soon. 

Sommelier Diana Serratos writes from Mexico City.

El Gallo Altanero is Guadalajara’s best bar: what’s its secret?

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Interior of El Gallo Altanero.
El Gallo Altanero, The Unyielding Rooster, is a cozy, happy bar located in Guadalajara’s Colonia Americana. (Courtest: North America's 50 Best Bars)

Fourteen Mexican establishments appear on the 2023 list of North America’s 50 Best Bars. For the second year running, the 21st spot has gone to Guadalajara’s El Gallo Altanero, located in the heart of the city’s Colonia Americana, which Time Out Magazine named the “Coolest Neighborhood in the World” in 2022.

“What’s your secret?” I asked the bar’s owner Nick Reid, an Australian who’s been in the tequila business for many a year.

El Gallo Altanero's staff.
The crew of El Gallo Altanero.

“This bar was literally created to support small brands of agave distillers,” Reid told me. “Nobody else seemed to care about them, but to me, agave spirits are something special — for one thing because of the amount of time it takes to make it. 

“And then there’s the connection with nature because it takes eight years to show. But the big companies dominate the market, and I felt like theirs were the only stories being told — because they’ve got the big money.”

Reid’s conclusion? 

“We need to have a platform for small brands to tell their story,” he said. “I want a bar that will only do small brands.”

Nick Reid
Co-owner Nick Reid explores the ruins of an ancient distillery in Jalisco’s Santa Rosa Canyon. (Photo: John Pint)

So Reid opened such a bar, and it became quite popular. “More than a cocktail bar,” he said. “I’d say it’s a party bar. It’s a strange place.”

Strangest of all may be its name: Reid’s partner in this enterprise, Swede Freddy Andreasson, translates it as “The Unyielding Rooster.” The word altanero also refers to high-flying birds, but because roosters can’t actually fly, Andreasson says, the message is: “Against all odds, I will fly!”

There is actually a real live rooster behind the bar’s name. It seems that once upon a time, Reid was attending a funeral in the countryside for a much-respected don of the community. In the church, Reid noticed an old man sitting in a pew with a rooster in his lap. 

“Why is there a rooster in the church?” Reid asked someone discreetly. 

Rooster in flight
Roosters and chickens can fly… a bit. The record is said to be 92 meters, set in 2014. (Photo: Jason Roberts)

“Oh, it has to be here,” said his informant. “That rooster was the old man’s pride and joy.”

Why is Reid’s bar so popular? 

“El Gallo Altanero mixes great hospitality with great product and with integrity,” said Andreasson, universally nicknamed El Güero. “From day one,” he said, “we were focused on one idea: [that] people are going to have a good time at this bar!

“I think a cocktail bar focused on agave could be a little bit boring, or maybe the bar might take itself too seriously, so we wanted to create an environment where if you want to learn something, you can, and if all you want is to have a good time, you can come just for that. We don’t want to force anything on anyone, but… if you’re looking to learn something about agave, we’re happy to teach you.”

“We work with smaller producers, and we have great relations with them. By doing this, we’ve created integrity, and I think people respect that.”

The Unyielding Rooster also puts on one heck of a good show.

Man feeds wood-fire oven.
The bar supports local brands like Raicilla la Reina, here pictured making spirits the old fashioned way in Jalisco’s remote Sierra Jolapa. (Photo: John Pint)

Each month, the bar’s owners invite guest bartenders from Europe, the U.S. or somewhere else in Latin America to come to Guadalajara and take over the bar.

“We also invite the local bar community to come and see what we all can learn,” Andreasson said. “This kind of takeover is not only about having a good time, but it’s also about sharing knowledge, especially with the local bar community.”

Guests at El Gallo Altanero have included bartenders from the world-class bars Attaboy and Katana Kitten in New York City. 

“Katana delivered an exceptional hospitality experience, full of surprises, full of fun,” Andreasson told me. 

“And then, last week, we had an amazing bartender from Vermont named Ivy Mix, who now has a bar named Leyenda in Brooklyn. Ivy is a veritable fountain of knowledge. She’s been in the game for a long time, and she’s written a book called ‘Spirits of Latin America,’ which offers a great introduction to drinks like Perú’s pisco, and Brazil’s cachaça. But I believe most of the great bars in the world realize that it’s not about the cocktails — it’s about their customers’ experience.”

I asked El Güero about La Colonia Americana, not only the neighborhood where El Gallo is located but also in which Andreasson been living for eight years.

“It tops a list of 50 of the Coolest Neighborhoods You Don’t Know, and I can see why,” he said. “It’s a very livable place, very different from anywhere else. It has its own character. I don’t think there’s a neighborhood in the world that looks the same or feels the same. And it’s fairly small.”

Andreasson notes how his barrio‘s composition has been changing over the years. Americans, he said, used to come there to retire.

“But now, they’re looking for places to live from which they can work remotely, where they can have lower overheads, where they can spend less money and make more money.”

Andreasson calls the Colonia Americana “a very special community that likes to stick to its guns. They do things their way, especially culinarily and culturally. So this is a place where you don’t find replicas of everything. Instead, you find original concepts that come from the state of Jalisco.”

Included among those original concepts, of course is El Gallo. As one of their frequent customers told me, “This barrio is cool, alright, but the coolest place of all is El Gallo Altanero.”

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

AI conservation project identifies jaguars in Yucatán reserve

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A jaguar, tracked by cameras from the Tech4Nature project
The Tech4Nature project, a coalition of several groups including Chinese smartphone manufacturer Huawei, and the government of Yucatán, has used AI recognition to track previously undiscovered jaguars in the state. (Tech4Nature)

A team of conservationists has found jaguars for the first time in the Dzilam de Bravo natural reserve in Yucatán, using cutting-edge artificial intelligence as part of a year-long project.

The Tech4Nature Mexico project has identified five jaguars in the reserve, the team announced Thursday, using a network of camera traps linked by an integrated AI monitoring system.

A Tech4Nature conservationist shows a jaguar being tracked by a camera trap in the reserve. (Tech4Nature)

Over the last year, the project has collected more than 30,000 images and 550,000 sound recordings. The data is processed on the ModelArts and Arbimon AI platforms, managed by the NGO Rainforest Connection, which allows researchers to track animals in the wild.

The team identified 119 species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians, 34 of which are considered endangered, but proving the presence of jaguars in the Dzilam Bravo reserve is the project’s most important achievement to date.

“Knowledge is extremely valuable. What we’re getting now with the monitoring are things that, if we don’t see them, we don’t know they’re there,” Yucatán’s Sustainable Development Minister Sayda Rodríguez said in a statement, adding that this data is crucial to support conservation efforts.

Environmentalists estimate that there are 4,000–5,000 wild jaguars in Mexico, around half of them in the Yucatán Peninsula. The number of identified jaguars increased from 4,025 in 2010 to 4,766 in 2018, but they continue to be threatened by deforestation, hunting and climate change.

jaguar
The number of Jaguars living in Mexico has risen significantly between 2010 and 2023, but conservationists hope new measures will allow researchers to track the animals more closely. (Edwin Butter/Shutterstock)

The Tech4Nature project, launched in early 2022, is supported by Chinese smartphone manufacturer Huawei, using recycled 3G and 4G cell phones to collect information from the cameras and sensors and transfer it to the company’s cloud center.

Huawei partnered with the Sustainable Development Ministry, the AI for Climate initiative of C Minds, the Polytechnic University of Yucatán, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the NGO Rainforest Connection and local Dzilam de Bravo communities to create the monitoring project.

The first jaguars were identified in Dzilam de Bravo shortly after the project’s launch.

“[The technology] reduced to a couple of months the work that was taking years,” Toshio Yokoyama, director of management and conservation of natural resources at the Sustainable Development Ministry, said at the time.

“Each of the jaguars we have identified has a different spot pattern, which allows us to identify it as an individual. The data allows the project 90% accuracy,” Yokoyama said. 

A year on, the project is now in its second phase, which involves identifying other species that share the jaguars’ habitat and using the information generated to develop conservation strategies.

With reports from Forbes México

Zacualpan, Morelos: a town that time almost forgot

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Frying fish at Zacualpan, Morelos' Sunday tianguis market.
Frying fish for hungry shoppers at Zacualpan’s Sunday tianguis market. (All photos by Alejandro Linares Garcia)

Tucked away on the Morelos-Puebla border is a community that demonstrates that not all of Mexico’s magical towns are Pueblos Mágicos.

“Zacualpan is a little agricultural village with great tradition and culture. Very pretty too,” says 18-year old Daniela García Caltempa, the town’s “Barter Queen.”

Zacualpan de Amilpas remains small, with only about 10,000 residents whose lives revolve around the town’s 16th-century church and monastery and its agriculture.

It’s almost a jump back in time, even though the municipality is only 81 km from Mexico City, just off Highway 160, which links the capital with Oaxaca. Local historian Israel Sandoval Martínez takes great pride in that. 

“The municipality has managed to preserve much of its unique character despite being so close to Mexico City,” he says. 

Zacualpan’s story begins over 3,000 years ago with Olmecs in the region, later Toltecs and Chichimecas. As part of lands under the dominion of the Triple Alliance (the Mexica Empire), it was an important agricultural area. After the fall of Tenochtitlan, the Spanish quickly built a monastery-fortress here, one of a series that are now World Heritage Sites.

Church of the Immaculate Conception
The church and former monastery from the 16th century is still the center of life in Zacualpan. Heavily damaged by the earthquake of 2017, it was one of the first historic buildings to be repaired because of its World Heritage status

The town’s name comes from Nahuatl and means “atop something covered,” which is believed to refer to a pyramid that has not yet been discovered. Some say this pyramid is outside the town, but the church-monastery, Inmaculada Concepción, is significantly elevated over the plaza, possibly over a Mesoamerican base. 

As small and quaint as the town is, the communities outside are even smaller and more isolated. They include the communities that were originally worker housing on old haciendas.

Zacualpan’s agricultural heritage is strongly shaped by its unique environment. Located on the lower slopes of Popocatépetl, it is filled with hills, ravines and box canyons. At 1,640 meters above sea level, it is in a transition zone from pine and oak to tropical forest, which allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. 

This agriculture shapes the local cuisine. Zacualpan has its own variety of mole, said to have been invented by the monastery’s monks. More prominent is its aguardiente de caña, a spirit made from sugar cane. Locals might tell you they cannot legally call it rum (not true), but that is what it is — and a good one too. Aguardiente de caña is most commonly enjoyed flavored with local fruits and herbs as a digestif.

Like other rural towns, Zacualpan’s annual festival calendar is important, particularly the festival of its patron saint, Our Lady of the Rosary, in late September. Like other such festivities in Morelos, it is celebrated with food, fireworks and Chinelos dancers but also features the mojiganga.

Like the more commonly-known puppets of the same name, the purpose of this festival is to lighten the mood after the serious religious processions and masses are concluded. Zacualpan’s mojiganga is a carnival-like celebration, where comparsas (like Mardi Gras krewes) spend the year making new, elaborate costumes and floats to parade in town only once. Costume themes vary, but the distinctive feature is the use of a hard papier mache for masks and sometimes other elements.

Zacualpan mask
A ram-devil mask by Comparsa Zacualpan Mágico for the town’s annual Our Lady of the Rosary celebrations.

Although there are precedents in the 19th century, the modern mojiganga emerged in 1965, with young men dressing outlandishly in old clothes and using jugs for masks. In the 1970s, the Falfan family introduced papier mache, and the jugs gave way to paper helmets.

The festival draws tens of thousands spectators regionally. In addition to being important economically, Sandoval Martinez says that it remains important to locals because it helps to preserve community ties. 

During the rest of the year, the best time to visit Zacualpan is Sunday morning: market day. Oddly enough, even the municipal market is empty the rest of the week. Everyone does their shopping on this one day, with open air stalls filling the center starting at 6 a.m. It is a very authentic tianguis market, but arrive early because just about everything sells out by 2 p.m. 

There is one very special segment of this tianguis: the “barter market.” A rare vestige of how tianguis used to operate in the Mesoamerican period, the barter market survives because many families still rely on growing much of their own food and are so isolated that they have little monetary income. Instead, many exchange excess produce — mostly tomatoes, limes, cucumbers, onions — and  small handcrafts with their neighbors.  

This tradition is so important to the town’s identity that each year in October, they select a young woman to be the Barter Queen. Her duties are to participate in the year’s festivities, including the mojiganga, teach visitors about how bartering works in the town, and represent Zacualpan to the rest of Morelos and beyond. 

This year’s Queen is Daniela García Caltempa, who sheepishly admits that while she competed for the title “somewhat out of vanity,” she believes strongly in maintaining Zacualpan’s unique identity.

Daniela Garcia Caltempa,
Daniela Garcia Caltempa, the “Barter Queen” of Zacualpan, directs a group of visitors on how to exchange items with local barterers.

Zacualpan is proud to have maintained its identity to the present day, but it hasn’t been easy. Sandoval Martínez says the town has changed greatly during his lifetime, with the (late) introduction of electricity, asphalt roads and telephones, accompanied by deforestation and now problems with the formerly abundant water supply. 

The main problem, he says, is not an influx of outsiders. As the local population has grown, people have subdivided land and built new houses, marginalizing old agricultural practices.The loss of family gardens and farms, he believes, represents a loss of self-sufficiency and a “lack of consciousness.”

Zacualpan does not seem to be particularly opposed to Pueblo Mágico status. It is included in the state of Morelos’ Pueblos con Encanto (Charming Towns) program, created when the federal Pueblos Mágicos ran into political difficulties. 

When I was last there in March, I was asked if I would write an article, to which I replied that if I do, please take care that too many gringos/foreigners don’t move in and change everything.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Preliminary data shows Mexico annual GDP grew 2.6%

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Inegi HQ
The Mexican economy has grown 0.4% in April, after an 0.1% contraction in March. (Google)

Mexico’s economy grew 0.4% in April compared to the previous month, and 2.6% in annual terms, according to preliminary data published by the national statistics agency INEGI on Thursday.

INEGI said that final data is expected to show annual growth of 1.7% in the secondary sector, which includes manufacturing, mining and construction, and 2.8% in the tertiary or services sector, which includes a range of business from commercial businesses to transport and the health sector. INEGI didn’t provide preliminary data for the primary sector.

In addition to providing a “nowcast” prediction of 2.6% annual growth in April, INEGI offered low-end and high-end forecasts of 1.7% and 3.5%, respectively.

The 0.4% month-over-month growth comes after a 0.1% decline in economic activity in March. INEGI published preliminary data in late April that showed that the economy grew 1.1% in the first quarter of 2023 compared to the previous three months and 3.8% in annual terms.

Mexico recorded GDP growth of 3.1% in 2022, while the federal Finance Ministry is forecasting a similar expansion of 3% this year.

The International Monetary Fund is less optimistic, predicting in its most recent World Economic Outlook report that Mexico’s economy will grow by just 1.8% in 2023.

With reports from El Economista and Sin Embargo 

Banxico’s belt tightening ends: interest rate holds at 11.25%

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The entrance to the Central Bank of Mexico (Banxico)
The Bank of Mexico announced Thursday that it was ending a nearly 2-year-streak of raising interest rates. (Santiago Castillo Chomel/Shutterstock)

Mexico’s central bank has ended a monetary policy tightening cycle that lasted almost two years, with members of its governing board voting unanimously on Thursday to hold the benchmark interest rate at a record high of 11.25%.

The decision comes after the publication of data last week that showed that annual headline inflation slowed for a third consecutive month in April, reaching an 18-month low of 6.25%.

Bank of Mexico Governor Victoria Rodriguez Ceja
Victoria Rodríguez Ceja, head of the Bank of Mexico, in a photo taken in March. (Presidencia)

In a statement announcing the decision, the Bank of Mexico (Banxico) noted that headline inflation had continued decreasing since the last monetary policy meeting on March 30, at which all five board members voted to raise the key rate by 25 basis points to 11.25%.

“Moreover, in its last readings, core inflation decreased more markedly than in previous months,” Banxico said.

The bank, however, acknowledged that headline and core inflation — 7.67% in April — remain high and predicted that “the inflationary outlook will be complicated and uncertain throughout the entire forecast horizon, with upward risks.”

“Thus, in order to achieve an orderly and sustained convergence of headline inflation to the 3% target, it considers that it will be necessary to maintain the reference rate at its current level for an extended period,” Banxico said.

A man shops in a Tiangüis
Banxico noted that headline inflation had continued decreasing since the last monetary policy meeting on March 30. (File photo/@dejoselapiz/Twitter)

The bank predicted that headline inflation will fall to 4.7% by the end of 2023 and continue declining next year to reach 3.1% in Q4 of 2024.

Banxico raised its benchmark rate by 725 basis points during a hiking cycle that began in June 2021.

Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at Mexican bank Banco Base, noted on Twitter that it was the bank’s most aggressive tightening cycle since it began targeting inflation in 2008. She said in an article that the central bank’s first interest rate cut following that cycle come come in December.

Siller said that Banxico’s monetary policy has been a factor in the appreciation of the peso, but noted that the dollar-peso exchange rate “practically didn’t react” to the bank’s interest rate announcement because an unchanged rate was expected.

The peso was trading at 17.70 to the US dollar at the close of markets on Thursday. The currency hit a seven-year high against the greenback on Monday, but subsequently lost ground during three consecutive days.

Siller said that the peso could depreciate if the United States Federal Reserve raises rates in June or if speculation grows about the possibility of future rate hikes in the U.S.

Mexico News Daily 

War of words escalates between synchronized swimmers and government

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Mexican olympic synchronized swimming team
The synchronized swimming team took home three golds and a bronze medal from the Artistic Swimming World Cup in Soma Bay, Egypt. (Twitter)

A dispute between the Mexican government and the national women’s artistic swimming team has deepened after the head of the National Commission for Physical Culture and Sport (Conade) lashed out at the team for allegations of lack of state support.

Despite winning four medals (three gold, one bronze) at the Artistic Swimming World Cup in Egypt earlier this week, the athletes said they struggled to fund their success because the government had failed to provide financial support for their trip. 

The team says they have been forced to sell towels and swimwear online to pay for the cost of their trip to Egypt. The government denies this, and says the team owe around US$ 2.3 million to Conade. (Twitter)

Conade chief Ana Gabriela Guevara has firmly denied this accusation, and instead claims that the team has misused public funds.

“Let them sell underwear, bathing suits, Avon or Tupperware, but they and their trainers are indebted,” she said in an interview on Wednesday with W Radio, alluding to the athletes’ attempts to raise money for their trip by selling swimsuits.

“We have given them 40 million pesos [US $ 2.3 million] and they have not accounted for [all] of it. The artistic swimming team, the athletes, owe Conade 2 million pesos from the 2016-2018 financial years that they have not been able to account for.”

Guevara called the swimmers “liars” and suggested it was “treacherous” for them to claim they’ve received no financial support from Conade. 

 

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador told reporters at the Thursday press conference that his government has robustly supported Mexican athletes, and defended Guevara’s comments about the team, noting that Guevara had herself won Olympic medals without any government funding.

He also criticized Carlos Slim’s son-in-law, Arturo Elías Ayub, for funding the team’s trip to the world cup without seeking government support first: “If they weren’t given support, then that was bad, but if they had told us they needed that [support], how could we not do it? … even if the artistic swimming competitors were not supported, and even if Slim has decided to help them (…) [the team] has made a whole scandal, but people know, and we will continue to inform them, that athletes have never been so well supported,” he said.

The president also said that Conade provides around 500 million pesos of funding to high-performance athletes every year.

The Mexican Swimming Federation (FMN) has had historic issues with misappropriation of funds, with former head Kiril Todorov recently charged with embezzlement.

Ana Guevara, head of Conade
Ana Guevara, head of the National Commission for Physical Culture and Sport (Conade), called the artistic swimming team “liars” in an interview. (Ana Guevara/Twitter)

The Olympic diving team, who won three medals in the last three Olympic games, have said they are considering selling their medals to fund their bid to compete in Paris in 2024 because they lack financial support from the government. Mexican high divers recently campaigned on social media to travel to the World Aquatics High Diving World Cup in Florida after the FMN withdrew financial support.

The artistic swimming team consists of 11 swimmers, two coaches and a team doctor. The team was able to complete their stay in Egypt by selling commemorative towels and swimsuits online.

Six of the athletes are members of the military, and therefore receive funding from the Defense Ministry, said Defense Minister Luis Sandoval at Thursday’s morning press conference, though he noted that the army has limited funding for international travel expenses.

With reports from El Pais, Infobae, Reforma and La Lista