A happy couple poses for their wedding photo at a collective marriage ceremony in Oaxaca city held by the government for Valentine's Day on Tuesday. (Photo: Sergio Salomón
On Feb. 14, hundreds of couples got married for free in different parts of the country thanks to collective weddings organized by local governments.
Offering couples a free-of-charge process to marry, the annual event seeks to support hundreds of citizens to regularize their civil status, including same-sex couples.
This newly wedded couple was one of more than 1,500 who got married in Tijuana on Tuesday, taking advantage of all states in Mexico now having legalized same-sex marriage. (Photo: Tijuana Local)
In the municipality of Nezahualcóyotl, México state, and in the state of Tabasco, mass unions of LGBT+ couples were held for the very first time.
“We’re happy because same-sex marriage was approved just three months ago here in the State of México, so we decided to marry this year,” Sarai Vargas told France24 media.
According to a Nezahualcóyotl municipal official, close to 1,000 couples took part in the event, of which 35 were same-sex couples. Authorities also provided hairdressing and makeup services for the couples.
Government-sponsored collective wedding ceremonies are an annual Valentine’s Day tradition throughout Mexico, an event typically presided over by a state governor or local mayor as a feel-good photo opportunity.
Mexico City’s Civil Registry did not announce mass weddings this year, but some borough governments within the city held free weddings for adult couples over 18 that had presented the required documents such as birth certificate, official identification, and prenuptial medical certificate.
In Nezahualcóyotl, México state, nearly 1,000 couples were married this year. This couple decided to stick out a bit from the crowd. (Photo: Infopolitano)
In Oaxaca, Governor Salomón Jara Cruz served as the honorary witness to more than 400 marriage ceremonies that took place in the city.
The local government also surprised nine of the lucky couples with honeymoon trips to Oaxaca’s beach resort municipality of Huatulco.
The announcement from the Economy Ministry comes after the U.S. government has expressed serious concerns with the ban. (Cuartoscuro)
Mexico has issued a decree relaxing impending restrictions on imports of genetically modified corn and the controversial herbicide glyphosate.
The Economy Ministry (SE) saidin a statement published on Monday that the decree’s main purpose was to “clarify” a previous ruling on the subject, issued inDecember 2020. That ruling promised to “contribute to [Mexican] food security and sovereignty” by phasing out all GM corn and glyphosate imports by Jan. 2024.
A corn farmer in Tlaxcala (Cuartoscuro)
The SE’s statement highlights the following changes to the text:
The new rules will apply only to corn, and not to other crops such as canola, soya and cotton.
The rules will apply only to corn intended for human consumption in dough and tortillas. The SE claims this will have little effect on trade, as Mexico is already self-sufficient in GM-free white corn used for these purposes.
The deadline for ending the use of GM corn for animal feed and industrial purposes will be scrapped. It will be replaced by a gradual phase-out depending on supply.
Thefull decree also extends slightly – until Mar. 2024 – the deadline for ending Mexico’s use and import of glyphosate.
The new ruling comes three days after the United States demanded an explanation from Mexico based on their scientific evidence for banning GM corn by Feb. 14. The public health regulator Cofepris has announced its intention to carry out studies on its possible impacts on human health.
Mexico is currently the U.S.’s main buyer of yellow corn for animal feed – much of which is GM – with imports worth $4.7 billion in 2021. U.S. legislators from corn-producing states have claimed a ban could cause the U.S. economy to lose as much as $73.9 billion.
In Nov. 2022, the U.S. government expressed “deep concerns” over Mexico’s phaseout and threatened toraise a dispute under the USMCA free trade act if Mexico didn’t reconsider the policy.
U.S. Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack argued that the new rules had “the potential to substantially disrupt trade, harm farmers on both sides of the border and significantly increase costs for Mexican consumers.”
U.S. Ambassador Ken Salazar (left), U.S. Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack and Mexico’s Agriculture Minister Victor Villalobos at a November meeting. (@SE_MX Twitter)
In response, the Mexican government said they were considering several proposals, includingextending the deadline for the phase-out until Jan. 2025.
The biotech phase-out is also controversial in Mexico. While it has been praised by some organic farmers and environmentalists, Mexico’s National Agricultural Council (CNA) argues that it could put Mexico’s food supply at risk.
The CNA has said that a ban on glyphosate could cause Mexico’s agricultural production to fall by up to 45% and send food prices soaring. This is of particular concern given that Mexico is already seeing highfood price inflation, with the average price of tortillas rising 19% during 2022.
In this context, the new decree stresses that the glyphosate phase-out “must allow agricultural production to be maintained” through government promotion of “sustainable alternatives.”
The 19th-century Mexican soprano Angela Peralta, photographed by the legendary Mexican photojournalist Agustín Víctor Casasola in Mexico City around 1880. (Photo: INAH)
If you live in Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende or Mazatlán you have a theater named after Ángela Peralta. If you live in other major cities in Mexico you may have a street or avenue named after Peralta — likely in front of a theater or center for fine arts. In July of 2021, on her 175th birthday, Google commemorated her life with a Google Doodle.
But who was she?
Peralta’s Google Doodle, which Google users from Alaska to Argentina saw on her 175th birthday on July 5, 2021. (Illustration: Google)
Ángela Peralta — whose real name was María de los Ángeles Manuela Tranquilina Cirila Efrena Peralta y Castera — was born in the Los Vizcaínas neighborhood of Mexico City in 1845. She broke down barriers in socially rigid 19th-century Mexico to become an internationally-renowned opera singer. Her career was short-lived — she died at 38 — but it was intense and tumultuous.
She was of humble origin and indigenous ancestry, but her operatic talent was discovered at a very young age. As a result, she received a good education and a music tutor — education and training that at the time was typically reserved for the daughters of the elite.
At just eight years old, she sang the cavatina (a short operatic aria) of Italian composer Gaetano Donizetti’s “Belisario” at a musical gathering, stunning the audience with her extraordinary talent.
The child prodigy caught the attention of the maestro Agustín Balderas — who became her singing teacher— and entered the National Conservatory of Music for training.
In 1860, Balderas boldly staged an opera performed for the first time by a fully Mexican ensemble at the Teatro Nacional, Mexico’s premier opera house in Mexico City. Balderas cast 15-year-old Peralta in the leading role of Leonara in Giuseppe Verdi’s “El Trovador.”
Peralta’s debut was enthusiastically received by the audience and marked the beginning of her 23-year long career.
Peralta played for Mexico’s Emperor Maximilian I and Empress Carlota at the royals’ request.
A year later, sponsored by wealthy benefactor Santiago de la Vega, Peralta traveled with her father to Italy — the home of opera — to continue her musical training. In 1862, at only 17, Peralta became the first Mexican to sing at the La Scala opera house in Milan. Her performance in Donizetti’s tragic opera “Lucia di Lammermoor” was so impressive that she received 23 standing ovations.
After her successful debut in Milan, Peralta began touring Italy and the rest of Europe singing at some of the most prestigious opera houses in the world: Rome, Turin, Florence, Genoa, Naples, Barcelona, Lisbon, Madrid, St. Petersburg and Cairo.
Peralta was not an attractive woman, but the expressive timbre of her voice and high pitch range garnered her fans and admirers everywhere she performed.
In Italy, she became known as angelica di voce e di nome — “angelic by voice and by name.” To the rest of the world, she was known as the “Mexican Nightingale.” She sang for the elite of Europe, kings and Pope Pius IX.
After three years of touring, she was asked to return to Mexico by the French-backed government in Mexico of Emperor Maximilian I and his wife Carlota (Charlotte of Belgium) to sing at the National Imperial Theatre. At that time, the royal couple honored Peralta with the title of “Chamber Singer of the Empire.”
After her performance in Mexico, she returned to Europe — stopping along the way to perform in Havana, Cuba, and New York City — and proceeded to Madrid, where she married her cousin, Eugenio Castera.
The Ángela Peralta Theater in Mazatlán, one of multiple performances halls in Mexico named after the Mexican Nightingale. (Photo: ElPattMedina/Creative Commons)
Marrying her cousin was frowned upon by European society and most likely began her fall from grace.
Peralta was not only an acclaimed opera singer but also a composer, harpist and accomplished pianist. After her wedding to Castera, she took time off from touring and spent three years composing songs and piano pieces — eventually founding her own touring opera company.
But Peralta’s husband was battling mental illness, and it led to an unhappy marriage. In 1876, she had him confined to a mental hospital in Paris, where he died. After his death she returned to Mexico to resume her operatic singing career.
While in Mexico, she began a love affair with her manager, Julián Montiel y Duarte, a well-known entrepreneur and lawyer. Meanwhile, her mastery of the Italian lyrical operatic style known as bel canto was enchanting audiences, and she regained her reputation as an opera singer.
Her affair with Montiel y Duarte, however, created a scandal among the social and religious elite of Mexico City, who began boycotting her performances. The elite was so incensed over her affair that they hired hecklers to disrupt her shows, making it impossible for her to continue performing.
Undaunted — Peralta was now a businesswoman with her own touring opera company — she put together a tour of major cities in northern Mexico, where she and her company would perform. In 1883, they left on tour, and she vowed publicly never to perform in Mexico City again — a vow she kept for the rest of her short life afterward.
Peralta’s tomb in Mexico City’s Rotunda of Illustrious Men. She was the first woman to be interred there, in 1937, which required her to be moved from her original burial spot in Mazatlán, where she died of yellow fever. (Photo: Leigh Thelmadatter/Creative Commons)
At the port of Mazatlán, she and her opera company were greeted by enthusiastic crowds of her adoring fans, who showered her with flower bouquets and admiration. Her elation at the welcoming reception, however, was short-lived.
She and 76 of the 80 members of her troupe had contracted yellow fever — an epidemic ravaging the city of Mazatlán at the time. She took to her bed at the Hotel Iturbide, next to the Rubio Theater in the historic center, where she was scheduled to perform.
Three days later, at the age of 38, Peralta and nearly all of her touring opera company died from yellow fever. On her deathbed, she married Montiel y Duarte, so ill that she could only nod her agreement to the vows.
In 1943, the Rubio Theater in Mazatlán was renamed the Teatro Ángela Peralta in her honor. The Hotel Iturbide where she died is now a fine arts school.
Although her personal life was turbulent, Peralta was a prolific performer who attained international acclaim — and became the most acclaimed soprano in the history of opera.
She sang her signature role of Lucia in “Lucia di Lammermoor”166 times and the role of Amina in Vincenzo Bellini’s “La Sonnambula”122 times. At a young age, she overcame the prejudices of the upper class, who viewed opera as an exclusive activity reserved for the wealthy and well-bred. She opened the door for many women who followed in her footsteps.
Ángela Peralta’s descendants at a government ceremony in 1937 at her internment into Mexico’s Rotunda of Illustrious Men. She was the first woman buried there. (INAH)
In death, Peralta once more regained her reputation and respect. In 1937 — more than 50 years after her death — she was disinterred and moved from Mazatlán to the Rotonda de los Hombres Ilustres (Rotunda of Illustrious Men) in the Panteón de Dolores cemetery in Mexico City, where her body rests today among other Mexican notables like Diego Rivera, composer Juventino Rosas, poet, author and early Latin American feminist Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz.
Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher. She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán in 2021 and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.
The newly opened Mariana Ibrahim gallery in Mexico City. (@MarianeIbrahimG)
During the Zona Maco art fair and art week in Mexico City (Feb. 8-12), a new gallery by the internationally recognized Mariane Ibrahim opened its doors in Colonia Renacimiento with the aim of exploring the work of Afro-Mexican artists.
Ibrahim is a Somali-French art dealer who has galleries in Paris and Chicago. Her focus is on promoting and making visible African and Afro-descendant art. She also looks to create synergies and opportunities for those who face challenges in the art world, particularly due to racial discrimination.
Ibrahim is of Somali-French background and is interested in Afro-Mexican culture. (Courtesy Mariane Ibrahim Gallery)
“Mexicans who visit us will see something they don’t normally see. I don’t think they are very exposed to the work of African artists, and we actually have a lot in common,” Mariane Ibrahim said in an interview with El Universal newspaper.
The Mexican gallery will function differently from her others, as it will be a “laboratory” with longer-lasting shows that will also include a public program.
In an interview with Vogue magazine, the artist said she seeks to connect with the Afro-Mexican community while exploring the role Veracruz played in the emancipation of the Black community in Mexico. “[…] there is a story I want to reveal that hasn’t been told at all, or not presented in the right way,” she told Vogue.
The value of Mexico's agricultural exports to the United States in 2022 increased 14% last year to a record high of US $44.2 billion.
United States consumers guzzled and devoured ample amounts of Mexican alcohol and avocados last year, while Mexicans ate large quantities of U.S. corn and pork.
The United States Census Bureau published data that showed that two-way agricultural trade between Mexico and the U.S. totaled just under $73.14 billion in 2022, an increase of 13% compared to the previous year.
Tequila was Mexico’s second most successful agricultural export to U.S. consumers in 2022, bringing in US $5 billion. ( deposit photos)
The value of Mexico’s agricultural exports to the United States increased 14% last year to a record high of US $44.2 billion, data shows.
Agriculture imports from the U.S. were worth $28.93 billion, or about 40% of the total.
Mexico thus recorded an agricultural trade surplus of just under $15.3 billion in 2022, an 18% increase compared to 2021. Mexico’s Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (SADER) noted in a statement that the trade balance result was better than those of the past five years.
It also highlighted that two-way agriculture trade increased from just under $50.87 billion in 2019 to $73.14 billion last year, representing growth of almost 44%.
SADER noted that the biggest earner in 2022 was Mexican beer, with exports to the U.S. totaling just under $5.4 billion. Tequila was a close second, bringing in just over $5 billion in revenue.
The next biggest export earners were avocados, $2.87 billion; strawberries and blueberries, $2.47 billion; bell peppers, $1.44 billion; beef, $1.1 billion; and pan dulce (Mexican sweet breads), $1 billion.
The United States is Mexico’s top export market for agricultural products, but producers ship products to many other countries including Canada and China.
Data showed that the top five U.S. agricultural exports to Mexico last year were corn, $4.92 billion; soybeans, $3.64 billion; dairy products, $2.44 billion; pork, $2.04 billion; and wheat, $1.59 billion.
One of the U.S.’s most successful agricultural exports to Mexico was corn, a Mexican staple. ( deposit photos)
The U.S. Department of Agriculture said that the American agricultural sector posted its best export year ever in 2022 with international sales of U.S. farm and food products reaching $196 billion.
“The value of sales increased in all of the United States’ top 10 agricultural export markets – China, Mexico, Canada, Japan, the European Union, South Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines, Colombia and Vietnam, with sales in seven of the 10 markets (China, Mexico, Canada, South Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines and Colombia) setting new records,” the department said in a statement.
A traditional annual event at the celebration is a mariachi performance that serenades the sunrise as it comes up on Feb. 14. (Photos: Government of Jalisco)
St. Valentine’s Day isn’t the only celebration happening in Guadalajara on Feb. 14. The city is also marking its 481st anniversary.
In 1530, Spanish conquistador Nuño Beltrán de Guzmán set out to conquer various settlements around the western Atemajac Valley . He entered through the small community of La Barca toward Tonallan (today known as Tonalá), accompanied by 500 Spanish soldiers and 15,000 indigenous people. After a successful conquest, he named the new lands Guadalajara after his birthplace in Spain.
Among the events during the six-day celebration will be a folkloric dance performance.
The city was then moved and founded again three more times over the next decade in different locations near the Atemajac Valley. Finally, on Feb. 14, 1542, Guadalajara was established one last time next to the San Juan de Dios river.
Guadalajara is nationally recognized as the place where the priest Miguel Hidalgo, father of Mexico’s independence, abolished slavery on Dec. 6, 1810. It’s also regarded as the home of one of the founders of Mexico’s muralism movement, José Clemente Orozco, whose most famous murals can be found at some of Guadalajara’s public buildings.
To celebrate the city’s anniversary, festivities include the GdlLuz Festival, which will light up 2 km of public buildings — from Guadalajara’s main square to the Cabañas museum — every day from Feb. 14–19.
Guadalajara’s regional dessert, the jericalla, will be in the spotlight at the Jericallas Festival, happening in the city on Feb. 15. Thousands of servings will be given out to the public. (GDL Ofc. of Conventions and Visitors)
Also, if you’re in town, don’t miss the Jericallas Festival, which celebrates the city’s famed custard dessert, the jericalla (similar in consistency to a crème brulée). It will take place on Avenida Circunvalación #2919, in Colonia Oblatos (next to the Administrative Building Prisciliano Sánchez), on Feb. 15, starting at 5:30 p.m. According to Guadalajara Mayor Pablo Lemus Navarro, city officials will be on hand distributing desserts to the public. According to the mayor, this year they will seek to break a record of how many jericallas can be eaten in one sitting.
For more information about other festivities marking the anniversary, click here.
According to reporting by El Financiero newspaper, the Economy Ministry has shut down offices in Switzerland and the United States. (Twitter @SE_mx)
As Mexico seeks to take advantage of the growing nearshoring phenomenon and resolve an energy sector conflict with its North American trade partners, the federal government has closed two overseas offices of the Economy Ministry (SE), according to a report by the El Financiero newspaper.
Citing four sources with knowledge of the issue, El Financiero reported Monday that the SE’s commercial representation office in Washington, D.C. closed on Dec. 31, 2022, while that in Geneva shut its doors on Jan. 31 of this year.
Representatives of Kansas City Southern Mexico visit Raquel Buenrostro at the Economy Ministry offices in Mexico City. (@SE_MX Twitter)
“They’re returning officials [to Mexico] at very short notice,” one of the sources said.
“What is not clear is whether they’re going to send people to cover these offices or whether in pursuit of austerity they will remain vacant,” added the source who noted that SE offices in Brussels and Tokyo have also closed.
Under President López Obrador’s leadership, the federal government has cut costs across a range of areas in pursuit of a healthy balance sheet and to free up resources for priorities such as the provision of welfare and social programs.
One of the El Financiero sources – all of whom spoke with the newspaper on the condition of anonymity – said that the closure of the SE office in Geneva is “the most serious” as Mexico consequently “loses representation before the World Trade Organization,” which is based in the Swiss city.
The sources agreed that the closure of the SE offices in the United States and Switzerland is additional proof that international issues, especially economic ones, are not a priority for the current federal government.
Proméxico, an agency that promoted international trade and investment, was also shut down during this term of government.
The Mexican and U.S. delegations, led by Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro and U.S. Trade Representative Katherine Tai respectively, met in Washington, D.C. in December. (Twitter @AmbassadorTai)
The closure of the SE offices in Washington and Geneva would appear to be counterproductive as Mexico is seeking to attract more investment from foreign companies, including ones from the United States and Europe, and resolve a dispute with the U.S. and Canada over energy policies that favor state-owned Mexican companies over private firms from those countries.
El Financiero’s report comes after Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro said in late January that all 31 states and Mexico City have the opportunity to benefit from the growing trend of companies relocating to Mexico.
Jorge Molina, an international trade consultant, said that the closures will weaken Mexico’s capacity to engage on trade and commercial issues, including in the United States, where effective communication with the U.S. Congress and government bureaucracy is needed.
“The issue is not trivial,” he said, adding that Mexico didn’t participate in a meeting between United States Trade Representative Katherine Tai and trade ministers at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland, earlier this year.
However, Buenrostro – a former chief of the tax agency SAT who became economy minister last October – met with Tai in December to discuss ways in which the energy dispute could be resolved. She held talks more recently with the United Kingdom Secretary of State for Business and Trade Kemi Badenoch and representatives of the rail company Kansas City Southern México to discuss investment in Mexico.
Buenrostro said last November that hundreds of companies are interested in relocating to Mexico due to the country’s geographical proximity to the United States and benefits associated with the North American free trade agreement known as USMCA.
Still, a director with the media and consultancy firm Tendencias Económicas y Financieras, asserted that the decision to close SE offices in the U.S. and Switzerland shows that the federal government “doesn’t understand nearshoring.”
“It’s time to promote Mexico in Europe as the best place to manufacture products whose market is the U.S.A.,” Carlos López Jones wrote on Twitter.
Raúl Fraga Juárez, an academic and journalist, said that the decision to close the SE offices was “very high risk for Mexico in the midst of a global era.”
The number of automobiles produced in Mexico during January was 2.38% higher than in January 2022. (Photo: Cuartoscuro)
Mexico’s automobile production increased 2.38% in the month of January to 280,315 units, according to the Administrative Registry of the Light Vehicle Automotive Industry (RAIAVL).
Light trucks represented 76.9% of that number, with the rest represented by passenger vehicles.
Meanwhile, production of heavy vehicles (e.g., tractor-trailer trucks and buses) grew 26% in January. The nation’s statistics agency INEGI reported that it was the highest figure in the first month of any year for that segment of Mexico’s automotive industry.
“In January 2023, the production of heavy vehicles in Mexico was focused on cargo vehicles, which represented 98.6% of the total,” INEGI reported. “The rest corresponded to the manufacturing of passenger buses.”
Leading companies in this segment included Freightliner, International, Kenworth and Volvo, INEGI said.
In terms of overall vehicle production in January, General Motors led the pack of Mexico’s 11 resident automakers, with 52,816 units produced, INEGI said. The brand Stellantis followed with 39,123 units, while Toyota took the No. 3 spot with 23,956 units. Ford and Kia rounded out the top 5 with 23,937 and 18,304, respectively.
General Motors México took the lead for numbers of automobiles produced in January, at 52,816 units, according to INEGI.
Mexico also did well in January with regards to export numbers, seeing a 9.93% overall increase in vehicles produced for export in the first month of the year to 238,135 units — a strong start following a record year for Mexico’s auto exports in 2022, when at US $34.9 billion in sales, it became the leading auto exporter to the U.S for the first time ever.
In 2022, Mexican automobile exports to the U.S. grew at an interannual rate of 23.3%, representing US $34.9 billion. Exports of auto parts saw a 15.2% increase of US $71.8 billion, and the category of heavy trucks, buses and special vehicles saw a 13.9% increase as well, for a total of US $43.6 billion.
Mexico’s share of the U.S. auto sales market also grew nearly a percentage point in 2022, to a 37.7% market share. Its share of the U.S. automotive market has increased almost without interruption since 2012, according to the nation’s statistics agency INEGI.
Yet, despite the high percentage of cars produced in Mexico for export in January, domestic production did well too: 94,414 light vehicles were produced in Mexico for national sales during the first month of 2023, a 20.1% jump compared to January 2021.
The National Association of Self-Service and Department Stores (ANTAD) said that sales at member businesses totaled 121.6 billion pesos in January. (Depositphotos)
Mexicans spent more than 120 billion pesos at retail stores in January, a large trade association reported Monday.
The National Association of Self-Service and Department Stores (ANTAD) said that sales at its member businesses – among which are the supermarkets Soriana and Chedraui, the department store Liverpool and the 7-Eleven convenience store chain – totaled 121.6 billion pesos (US $6.5 billion) last month.
The figure, which accounts for sales at over 47,000 individual stores, is 13.8% higher than that recorded in January 2022. It includes sales at businesses that were not ANTAD members a year ago.
Marisol Huerta, an analyst with the financial group Ve por Más, said that the retail data is “positive,” but noted that high inflation – 7.91% in annual terms in January – was a factor in the total outlay. Still, “in general it was a positive month,” she said.
Inflation has remained stubbornly high in Mexico despite successive interest rate hikes and efforts by the federal government to put downward pressure on prices.
The central bank last week lifted its benchmark interest rate by 50 basis points to a new record high of 11% after both headline and core inflation rose in January.
Querétaro city's iconic arches. This small city still has many traces of its long history dating back to before the conquest, but it also has all the modern amenities and food options you'd expect from a metropolis. (Photo: Government of Mexico)
When the magical chaos of Mexico City starts to grate on my nerves, I hop on a bus to somewhere. Knowing my preference for unbridled walking, interesting museums, bright colors and good food, I decided recently to spend a long weekend in the lovely, charming city of Santiago de Querétaro.
Full disclosure: I’m a fairly recent transplant to Mexico still donning rose-colored glasses. My Mexican honeymoon rages with crystalline palpability, but as a professional traveler, I remain acutely aware of its setbacks.
Otomis in Quéretaro still hang on to their heritage. (Photo: Government of Mexico)
Nonetheless, I would, without a shred of hesitation, suggest a getaway in Querétaro to even the most jaded of travelers. If you like:
flowers
history
museums
nature
wine
shiny, sequined quinceañera dresses
You’re going to enjoy Queretaro.
You really don’t need much time to adequately explore the city and its surroundings. I spent three nights here and felt that to be perfectly sufficient. My mood was lifted, creativity sparked and thirst for adventure quenched. If you’re looking for a great weekend away with friends or solo (like I was), Querétaro might just be the ticket.
The region’s background is worth a refresher. The 13th century saw its original indigenous inhabitants, the Otomí, conquered by the almighty Mexica (Aztecs). In 1522, the Spanish arrived in what is now Queretaro and struck an alliance with the Otomí to push the Mexica out. As a sign of loyalty, the Otomí leader Conin converted to Catholicism and founded Querétaro in 1531.
Ethnically diverse and economically sound, Querétaro grew alongside the Spaniards until the 19th century, when local revolutionaries planned a rebellion. As a result, it’s the official birthplace of Mexican Independence, which was finally won in 1821. Today, Santiago de Querétaro boasts about 2.3 million inhabitants and explodes with soul.
History lesson over. What is there to do?
Let’s start with food because, well, isn’t it an essential component of any meaningful experience? While I would be remiss to label Querétaro a foodie city, one should try its personalized, noticeably thicker version of mole and enchiladas Queretanas, filled with chicken and slathered in red sauce and crumbly cheese.
Queretaro is surprisingly full of vegetarian and even vegan options. (Vanggie)
Being pseudo-vegan, I was unable to try either of these dishes. However, being a taco LOVER, I was absolutely delighted by the handful of excellent vegan options sprinkled throughout town. Vanggie Restaurant is a must-try that can be found within the sleek walls of a stylish, floral courtyard. If you dig hipster vibes, TacoGreen is another fantastic option to fill your belly.
Since I start nearly each day of my life with fresh juice, I always beeline for the closest open-air market upon waking up. Mercado de la Cruz is the city’s main attraction, but Mercado Hidalgo captured my heart, and that’s largely due to the pleasant, friendly people.
I found myself unable to break free of one popular stall whose name never caught my eye. Entering from Calle Hidalgo, you will see a set of bar stools to your right and two to three jolly women selling café de olla, vegan tamales and not-vegan-at-all-but-couldn’t-care-less carrot cake that I dream about on the regular. It’s vibrantly local.
Once satiated, I meandered the quaint streets lined with colorful facades that positively dripped with bright bougainvillea trees. Querétaro is bursting with museums situated inside stunning historical buildings. The Regional Museum is in a former monastery, and the Museum of Art is in a former convent.
Take time to visit the city’s museum devoted to the calendar, MUCAL. (Photo: MUCAL)
Personally, I really enjoyed the MUCAL museum — a museum devoted to calendars — with its fun 1930’s pinup-girl throwbacks, and the haunting, lifelike paintings at Museo Fundacion Santiago Carbonell wowed me. For more examples of stunning historic buildings, check out the Casa de la Marquesa — an opulent mansion-turned-hotel that has hosted President Eulalio Gutiérrez and would-be emperor of Mexico, Maximiliano l —as well as the gorgeous Convento de la Santa Cruz.
Time for a coffee break. While I can’t speak for the quality of the coffee itself, one of my favorite moments was drinking tea by the open-air window at Cafeteria De Barrio. From here, I had unobstructed views of the square’s cathedral, surrounded by local families and spirited street vendors.
Once revived, I made my way to Cerro de las Campanas, a park that can be reached on foot or by Uber. Not only did I stumble on several wonderfully dramatic quinceañera photo shoots, I later realized that I was standing on the very grounds where Maximiliano l was executed in 1867.
Bernal’s monolith, the iconic Peña de Bernal, attracts many hikers.
By now, I could no longer ignore the city’s penchant for wine. Instead of tasting it in town, I went straight to the source, on a day trip to wine country.
My small group tour stopped at Freixenet, probably the most well-known of all the Querétaro-area wineries due to its cellar packed with Spanish-style cava. Not my fave, but my travel mates were happy.
Most tours offer the option to visit the traditional towns of Tequisquiapan, Bernal or both. I opted for Bernal because of its 100-million-year-old monolith that I ambitiously thought I’d be hiking. Pro tip: Make Bernal its own day trip if hiking is on your radar.
Because I chowed down on various tacos most of the day, my dinner consisted of my preferred Mexican delicacy (besides tortillas): mezcal. I spent two of my three nights snacking and sipping in Alquimia Cocktail Bar, where I felt comfortable alone, chatting with the bartenders in Spanish (which improved exponentially with each drink I downed).
By Day 4, I was ready to return to Mexico City, feeling thoroughly recharged and reenergized by my visit. While I didn’t have the chance to indulge in all of Querétaro’s offerings (I would have loved to partake in the nighttime tram tour and visit the El Cerrito archaeological zone), I felt wholly fulfilled by my four-day adventure.
Just outside the city, the state of Querétaro has a wine route with several wineries that hold tours, do tastings and during, harvest season, grape stomping. (Photo: Dreamstime)
Bethany Platanella is a travel and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. With her company,Active Escapes International, she plans and leads private and small-group active retreats. She loves Mexico’s local markets, Mexican slang, practicing yoga and fresh tortillas. Sign up for her (almost) weeklylove letters or follow her Instagram account,@a.e.i.wellness.