Thursday, May 1, 2025

Why, when it comes to reproductive rights, Mexico gives me hope

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Mexican Supreme Court Justice Arturo Zaldivar
Supreme Court Chief Justice Arturo Zaldívar. He called Mexico's decriminalization of abortion in 2021 'a new route of freedom, clarity, dignity and respect for all women.'

It’s easy to feel discouraged lately.

The world has had a rough go of things. My native country, in particular, looks as if it’s about to implode on itself. It’s been rough watching democracy seemingly disintegrate before our very eyes from afar as a minority party gains an increasing amount of control over the country’s legal institutions despite the will of the majority of the people who live there.

Knowing that they could never retain power without gerrymandering, voter suppression and outright refusing to play by the rules, the Republican party in the United States has done a terrifyingly excellent job of cementing its power.

One of the most notable ways it’s done this is through Supreme Court appointments (in addition to the naming of more than 200 federal judges). After U.S. Senator Mitch McConnell successfully blocked former president Obama from appointing a new justice long before the elections, he and the Republican-controlled Senate then happily waved through several ideologically extreme and morally questionable nominees appointed by Trump who have now overturned Roe v. Wade‘s guarantee of the right to an abortion.

And if Supreme Court Justice Clarence Thomas’ curious opinion — yes, the same Clarence Thomas whose wife took an active role in trying to help Trump steal the 2020 election for himself – is to be taken seriously (and I think it should be), the right to contraception and even marriage between consenting adults might soon approach the chopping block as well.

The United States is now poised for abortion to be illegal in roughly half of its states, just as much of the rest of the world, including Mexico, is moving in the opposite direction.

I’ve been alarmed and saddened about the actions taken in my own country but hopeful about Mexico’s movement in the opposite direction over the past several years.

My optimism rose when I read a piece the other day about Mexican Supreme Court Chief Justice Arturo Zaldívar.

The Supreme Court of Mexico, while it has less power than the one in my country, has also had a few things to say on the subject of women’s rights, including abortion, in great part because of Chief Justice Zaldívar’s leadership.

In a unanimous vote, the court decriminalized abortion last year. While its legality is still technically up to individual states to decide, the Supreme Court’s actions have paved the way for access all over the country.

To paraphrase Záldivar: “We’re in favor of life – the life of the mother.”

I’ve written about abortion several times before, including the surprising landscape in Mexico as well as strategies for actually reducing the number of abortions that take place. (Hint: criminalizing it is not an effective way to reduce its incidence and, as Záldivar himself says, rich girls have always had access to abortions, meaning that what’s actually criminalized is poverty.)

I don’t feel much of a need to express myself further on the subject at this point – you can read my other articles about it if you want to know exactly what I think – except to say that a woman’s ability to control when and if she goes through a pregnancy and has children is everything.

Without that control, which comes via not just birth control but a general culture of respect toward women and their right to avoid coercive, unprotected sex — and, yes, the right to terminate a pregnancy — women’s possibilities for participating in the public spheres of society are near zilch, as has been the case for much of history.

When women have children, their lives are, quite simply, no longer their own.

Mr. Zaldívar has become an unlikely feminist ally. He was raised in a deeply Catholic family in a deeply conservative state: Querétaro.

The state has become much more cosmopolitan and diverse since even the days that I lived there, but I personally remember being surprised at how easily people were scandalized, especially when it was more than evident that everyone regularly participated in scandalous behaviors.

Given his background, it’s curious (and to me, inspiring) that his thinking has evolved to the point that he’s been such an instrumental actor in ensuring women’s rights and women’s inclusion in legal institutions – he’s responsible for guaranteeing a certain number of seats were reserved for women on the Supreme Court.

He credits his evolution to a circle of close female friends, aides and family members who have shared their own personal experiences and viewpoints with him. In a rare move for a powerful man, he did something amazing: he listened and he sympathized. He seems to have realized very clearly that the personal is indeed very political.

I, for one, am glad that women in Mexico have people in power on our side who recognize women as fully autonomous humans who should have absolute control over their bodies because there haven’t been many powerful people who’ve thought so for most of our history.

So it’s given me a rather unfamiliar feeling lately: hope.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.

Mr. AMLO goes to Washington: the week at the morning news conferences

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The presidents confer.
President López Obrador confers with his U.S. counterpart on a visit last summer to the White House. Official Website of López Obrador

President López Obrador toured Mexico’s southernmost state, Chiapas, last weekend. Agile as a yo-yo, he readied himself to travel north to meet U.S. President Joe Biden in Washington, D.C.

Monday

“We’re going to start the week,” the president announced from the National Palace, but warned time was tight before his flight to the U.S. capital.

“It’s a meeting to reaffirm our commitment to work together for the benefit of our peoples … There are bilateral issues such as migration … also support for Central American countries. We’re also going to deal with the inflation issue … Security is sure to be addressed as well,” the president said of the meeting with Biden.

On Monday, the president spoke of his expectations for his upcoming trip to the United States.
On Monday, the president spoke of his expectations for his upcoming trip to the United States. Presidencia de la República

López Obrador added Mexico was better off without help from U.S. security agencies, recalling the so-called “Fast and Furious” operation by a domestic U.S. law enforcement agency, which accidentally armed Mexican cartels.

“Revenge isn’t my strength,” the tabasqueño assured when asked about an investigation into former president Peña Nieto’s finances. He exhibited mercy later in the conference, defending condolences for deceased former president Luis Echeverría, who is remembered for his violently repressive governance.

With his flight to Washington fast approaching, López Obrador reaffirmed his respect for a Cuban revolutionary. “When Fidel Castro died I said that a giant had died, just like [former South African president] Mandela,” the president said, before showing a video of the two men meeting and Mandela warmly thanking Castro for Cuba’s help in the South African civil rights struggle.

Tuesday

Two senior statesmen met at the White House on Tuesday. AMLO, 68, looked youthful across from his U.S. counterpart: Biden, 79, is the the oldest person to become U.S. president.

Diplomacy led the proceedings. “We see Mexico as an equal partner. Our nations share close ties in family and friendship, and we’re united through our values and our history,” Biden said.

However, on migration the U.S. president pushed responsibility southwards. He said the migration crisis was a “hemispheric issue” which had been addressed at the Summit of the Americas last month in Los Angeles, an event López Obrador boycotted. Biden described Mexico as “a top destination of migrants” and lamented the trafficking of people and synthetic drugs into the U.S., highlighting the truck disaster in Texas last month where more than 50 migrants died.

López Obrador was eager to share his perspective. He said that “our grievances [as Mexicans from past U.S. policy] are not really easy to forget … [but] we’ve been able to work together,” and pointed to former U.S. president Franklin Roosevelt as a model for bilateral cooperation.

The presidents and first ladies pose in the U.S. White House.
The presidents and first ladies pose in the U.S. White House. Official Website of López Obrador

The president told Biden it was wrong to accept China as “the factory of the world” and said it was urgent to regularize migrants to help increase production and build infrastructure in the U.S. “I know that your adversaries, the conservatives, are going to be screaming all over the place, even to heaven … the way out is not through conservatism. The way out is through transformation,” AMLO affirmed.

“Long live the United States … Long live Mexico, dear Mexico, loved and beautiful Mexico. Viva México,” López Obrador concluded, relieving Biden.

Tuesday afternoon

The president paid tribute to civil rights icon Martin Luther King and Franklin Roosevelt at their respective monuments on Tuesday afternoon. With the son and family of Martin Luther King and many Mexican migrants in attendance, he improvised a speech.

AMLO gave an impromptu speech at the statue of civil rights leader Martin Luther King, in the U.S. capital.
AMLO gave an impromptu speech at the statue of civil rights leader Martin Luther King, in the U.S. capital. Official Website of López Obrador

“Not everything that has to do with the United States has been a grievance. There are, of course, moments that can not be forgotten … but there have also been moments of mutual assistance,” he said, and credited Abraham Lincoln and Franklin Roosevelt for their diplomacy.

“We’re here at the monument of a great civil rights fighter, Martin Luther King, because we admire him. He is a follower … of a creed that is summarized in one sentence: love thy neighbor … it is possible to peacefully achieve a better society for all, that is the dream we have. He said at the time, ‘I have a dream.’ We have to continue to maintain that dream, that utopia, for us and for those who come after us: our children and our grandchildren. That is Luther King’s greatest lesson,” the president proclaimed.

Thursday

The deputy security minister boasted some of the week’s big arrests in the “Zero Impunity” section. He said three people were detained after the murder of an Italian businessman in Chiapas and a man known as the “Cannibal of Taxco,” who killed his wife and prepared to eat her in 2018, would finally see justice.

Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía gave his weekly arrest report on Thursday.
Deputy Security Minister Ricardo Mejía gave his weekly arrest report on Thursday. Presidencia de la República

The president reflected on his meeting with Biden which he said was “favorable, good for both nations.” He added Biden had agreed to considerably increase the number of temporary visas on offer for Mexicans and Central Americans and said consensus was found on investments to improve ports of entry between the U.S. and Mexico.

López Obrador added that U.S. businesses had pledged to invest US $40 billion, mainly in the energy sector by 2024, and said he mentioned to business representatives that salaries in Mexico were lower than in China, presumably to advertise the country as a location for manufacturing.

Tangentially, before finishing the conference, the president explained the difference between corn chips in Oaxaca, i.e. totopos, and those in Tabasco, called totopostes. In Tabasco, he confirmed, they are thinner. He then revealed his desire for a breakfast with beans, cheese, some fried bananas and totopostes.

Friday

The conference on Friday started with a message from the first Mexican woman to reach outer space. A short video of Katya Echazarreta was broadcast: “The planet looks incredibly beautiful from space. But the most beautiful thing for me was that I was able to dedicate this flight to my country, to my beloved and beautiful Mexico,” said the U.S. citizen, who was born in Guadalajara.

The president confirmed that in November delegations from the U.S. and Canada would visit Mexico to discuss the countries’ free trade agreement. Later in the conference, López Obrador thanked recent French presidential candidate Jean-Luc Mélenchon, who had said AMLO is the natural leader of Latin America. AMLO also thanked Venezuelan dictator Nicolás Maduro, who’d said “we take off our hat” to the president for his stance with Biden.

The tabasqueño had words of support for another old leftist as well. Brazil’s Lula da Silva will compete for a third term as president in October, having been released from prison last year. AMLO called Lula a “blessing” for Brazil, and assured he was innocent of all previous allegations against him.

Mexico News Daily

Another school that won ‘plane raffle’ money faces charges of fraud

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Winning the presidential plane raffle has proved to be a mixed blessing for some communities.

Another case of alleged mismanagement of money won in the 2020 “presidential plane raffle” has emerged, this time in Veracruz.

As was the case at the Manuel Pozos Primary School in Xochiapulco, Puebla, much of the 20-million-peso (about US $974,000 at today’s exchange rate) prize won by the Gregorio Torres Quintero Secondary School in Cihuateo was used on an ill-fated construction project.

In Cihuateo, located 35 kilometers south of Orizaba in the municipality of Los Reyes, 7 million pesos (about US $340,000) was supposedly spent on a project to upgrade and expand the local middle school. But despite the significant outlay, the project was never finished.

Unsurprisingly, parents of students who study at the school are unhappy about the situation, and they’re directing their anger at the committee tasked with managing the cash prize.

Angry parents display the complaint they filed against the committee.
Angry parents display the complaint they filed against the committee. Courtesy Fernando Gómez

According to a report by the newspaper El Sol de Orizaba, the parents this week went to a prosecutor’s office in the nearby town of Zongolica to demand that a complaint they filed against the committee be dealt with more quickly. They’re not only angry about the failure to complete the school project, but also upset that the committee wants to use much of the remainder of the money for a road project.

In an interview with El Sol, the disgruntled parents said that it had been agreed that the rest of the money would be used for improvement projects at a preschool, primary school and church in Cihuateo. However, the committee has instead approved an 8-million-peso project to pave eight kilometers of a local road, they said.

The parents said that residents were not given an opportunity to have their say about that plan. They stressed that they are not seeking any personal benefit from the money won in the raffle, but want the funds to be used for the good of the community, in the way residents agreed to use them.

A lawyer for the parents, Alfonso Cortés Gómez, told El Sol that his clients have knowledge that the committee has made improper use of the funds won in the raffle and has tried to conceal its fraud. The committee, the parents say, has refused on repeatedly occasions to disclose how the money has been used. They also suggested that the person in charge of the incomplete school project is complicit with the alleged fraudsters on the committee.

The Gregorio Torres Quintero Secondary School was among 100 winners of 20-million-peso prizes in the raffle, which was drawn on September 15, 2020.

The combined prize pool was roughly equivalent to the value of the unwanted presidential plane, which was to be the prize until the government realized that owning and maintaining a luxuriously-outfitted Boeing 787 Dreamliner would be impractical for most Mexicans.

With reports from El Sol de Orizaba

Long-sought drug lord Caro Quintero captured

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File photos of Caro Quintero, left, and Camarena.
File photos of Caro Quintero, left, and Camarena.

Notorious drug lord Rafael Caro Quintero – the convicted murderer of United States DEA agent Enrique “Kiki” Camarena – has been arrested in northern Mexico, according to federal authorities.

Unnamed officials cited by the newspaper Milenio said that Caro Quintero – founder of the now-defunct Guadalajara Cartel – was captured by marines and federal agents in the municipality of Choix, Sinaloa.

But a Reforma newspaper report said he was detained in Guachochi, a municipality in the Sierra Tarahumara region of Chihuahua, where authorities are currently conducting an extensive manhunt for an accused murderer. No shots were fired in the arrest of the 69-year-old trafficker, according to a Reforma source.

Caro Quintero spent 28 years in jail for the 1985 murder of Camarena before his 40-year sentence was cut short in 2013 after it was ruled that he was improperly tried in a federal court when the case should have been heard at the state level. The Supreme Court later upheld the 40-year sentence, but the drug lord had disappeared by then.

There was a US $20-million reward posted for Caro Quintero by US authorities.
There was a US $20-million reward posted for Caro Quintero by US authorities.

After his release, he allegedly returned to the drug underworld as the leader of the Caborca Cartel in Sonora. The FBI added Caro Quintero to its 10-most-wanted list in April 2018, placing new pressure on Mexico to capture him.

However, President López Obrador, who took office in December 2018, has demonstrated scant interest in detaining drug lords, and even ordered the release of one of Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán’s sons after he was arrested in Culiacán, Sinaloa, in 2019.

Caro Quintero – who was found to have ordered the kidnapping of Camarena in Guadalajara before torturing and killing him – was a major supplier of narcotics to the United States in the late 1970s and early ’80s. He blamed “Kiki” for a 1984 raid on a marijuana plantation. The murder of the DEA agent negatively affected Mexico-U.S. relations for years.

The security forces who detained Caro Quintero – apparently on Friday – were acting on two valid arrest warrants. The drug lord is also the subject of an extradition order in the United States, where authorities had offered US $20 million for information leading to his capture.

The apprehension of Caro Quintero is probably the highest-profile arrest of a criminal in Mexico since “El Chapo” was recaptured in Los Mochis, Sinaloa, in 2016. It came as the army and Chihuahua police search for José Noriel “El Chueco” Portillo Gil, a presumed gang leader who is accused of murdering two elderly Jesuit priests and two other men in the municipality of Urique, Chihuahua, last month.

With reports from AP, Milenio and Reforma

1,500-hectare park in Puebla designated natural protected area

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Flor del Bosque, the park recently declared a protected area by the state.
Flor del Bosque park was declared a protected area by the state this week. Puebla state Environment Ministry

The Flor del Bosque park, located southeast of Puebla city, has been declared a natural protected area, the state government announced on Thursday.

This will mean that the park’s 1,501 hectares will be off-limits for real estate development and other kinds of new settlement, and that the communities already living on the land will be obliged to participate in its sustainable use and protection.

Despite intense protest from environmentalists, in 2018 local government officials in conjunction with the state Congress transferred 42 hectares of the property to real estate developer Carlos Enrique Haghenbeck Cámara. In 2020, Haghenbeck’s claims to rights of the property were rejected by the new legislature because his company failed to pay the proper amount of taxes for its transfer.

Now that the area has been declared protected, the state’s Environment Ministry will have a year to develop a management plan for Flor del Bosque that will take into account the need to preserve and protect the area’s endemic flora and fauna.

In the official declaration it was noted that this piece of land regulates the regional climate, guarantees a source of water in the region, provides an ecosystem for all kinds of plant and animal species and provides areas of conservation, recreation and research. The area also serves as a source of oxygen, helps to recharge the local water table, and sequesters carbon. This swath of the land is also one of the few green areas left in Puebla’s metropolitan area and serves as a natural shelter for many kinds of migratory birds.

The new status will mean that certain activities are now off-limits in this forested area, including modifying the natural parameters of the area and its resources, which means any human contact that degrades the environment or harms species that live there. There will be prohibitions against physical pollution as well as noise pollution in the new reserve.

With reports from e-consulta

Give us your feedback: why are foreign families moving to Mexico?

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Expat family with their Mexican residency cards
The Slobe family, who moved to Mexico in 2015, on the day they received their residency cards. courtesy of Debbie Slobe

Mexico often tops lists as one of the best places to retire, but did you know it’s quickly becoming a popular place to live for young families from all over the world? 

The country is experiencing an immigration renaissance of sorts. It’s not uncommon to find families from Europe, the U.S., Canada and other parts of Latin America in towns and cities across the country, settling in and making Mexico their new home. 

While there is no official tally of the number of foreign families living here, if their obvious presence in cafes, parks, plazas, schools and in online forums and Facebook groups is any indication, their numbers must be in the thousands if not tens of thousands. 

So, what is attracting these families to Mexico? Is it the weather? A lower cost of living? The amazing food? The friendly culture? A desire to learn Spanish? A safer school environment? (Believe me, as a U.S. citizen, that’s one of the big reasons my family has stayed so long in Mexico.)  

Mexico News Daily wants to find out, so we’ve prepared a survey for our readers who are part of expat families in Mexico.

Please fill out our online survey below and tell us your story. Some of your answers to this survey could be used in a future article about the results.

Double tractor-trailer carrying fuel loses race against train

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The scene after Wednesday's crash in Tamaulipas.
The scene after Wednesday's crash in Tamaulipas.

The driver of a double semitrailer is reported to be in grave condition after he tried to outrun a train at a level crossing Wednesday morning near Ciudad Victoria, Tamaulipas.

The driver suffered burns over 60% of his body when his truck was hit by a train headed from Altamira, Tamaulipas, to Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, causing the fuel he was transporting inside the tankers to explode on impact. The driver was apparently traveling from Ciudad Madero to the capital of Tamualipas with 30,000 liters of diesel in each trailer.

The accident took place at 11:30 a.m. on the Libramiento Naciones Unidas, near El Olmo ejido in the municipality of Victoria.

The accident sent a huge billowing cloud of gray smoke into the air and blocked traffic on the highway for several hours while the area was secured, debris was removed and the driver was transferred to a nearby hospital.

The smoke billowing from the wreckage could be seen for miles.
The smoke billowing from the wreckage could be seen for miles.

The train driver, who was uninjured, said the semi tried to beat the train across the tracks.

With reports from El Mañana de Tamaulipas, El Heraldo de México  and Milenio

Riviera Nayarit among world’s greatest places: Time magazine

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Time calls the Riviera Nayarit 'a hidden gem.'
Time calls the Riviera Nayarit 'a hidden gem.' deposit photos

After a slew of recent “best of” lists highlighting Mexico’s grandeur — the 50 best bars of North America, Travel + Leisure naming Oaxaca the best city in the world — comes a mention from Time magazine.

Its 50 World’s Greatest Places of 2022 list includes the Riviera Nayarit, the only Mexican location on the list.

The Riviera Nayarit is a long corridor of coastline that extends the length of Nayarit state to Puerto Vallarta and encompasses some of Mexico’s most popular vacation destinations such as beach towns Punta Mita, San Francisco, Sayulita and Nuevo Vallarta.

Time’s justification for choosing the Riviera Nayarit included several luxury resorts that will open this year including Susurros del Corazón and the Four Seasons’ Naviva in Punta Mita, as well as Secrets Bahia Mita and Dreams Bahia Mita in the Bay of Banderas. The magazine also highlighted the soon-to-open Islas María Biosphere Reserve — a former federal jail turned educational center and tourist destination — and the 23 beach towns that can be explored along the state’s coast.

Time’s yearly list is compiled by international correspondents and contributors to the magazine with a specific focus on new and exciting experiences that can be had in each place selected. These places are all growing and thriving, says Time, as well as working towards being sustainable.

In an interview with NTV, Nayarit Tourism Minister Juan Enrique Suárez chalked up the win to the increased investment in the state by local authorities and the endemic traditions that draw tourists to this part of Mexico.

“This is extraordinary news,” Suárez said. “Today we should feel good that Nayarit has been listed as one of the most important destinations in the world” and the only one from Mexico.

With reports from Time, CNN, and NTV

Traditional temazcal lodges promise to heal both bodies and minds

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temazcal ritual in Mexico
At the sound of a conch shell trumpet, participants in a temazcal ceremony face each of the four cardinal directions.

After several musicians in the Jalisco Philharmonic Orchestra — all of them expats — had told me that they had had very rewarding experiences at a temazcal near the ruins of the Guachimontones circular pyramids, 50 kilometers west of Guadalajara, I decided to investigate.

The temazcal is the Mexican version of the traditional sweat lodge that has been in continuous use by native peoples of North America for as long as civilization has existed. In this part of Mexico, the sweat lodge takes the form of a round, one-room construction made of adobe that can hold about a dozen people. It has one very low door and no windows except for a small hole in the roof.

The word temazcal is said to come from the Náhuatl word temazcalli. The verb tema means “to bathe” and calli means “house.”

This temazcal was built by Godofredo Oseguera, founder of Proyecto Mixcouatl, which is dedicated to the preservation of pre-Hispanic traditions.

Pictogram of a Mexica temazcal lodge in Codex Magliabechiano
Pictogram of a Mexica temazcal lodge in the 16th-century Mexica history, the Codex Magliabechiano.

Oseguera says that the temazcal has always been used for a variety of purposes, including physical and mental health, communication with immaterial beings and far more mundane ends such as the processing of grana cochineal (insects used to produce crimson dye) and the smoking of corn seeds to protect them from insects.

Symbolically, the temazcal ritual represents a return to the womb, a renovation in which participants hope to find the inner child they may have lost contact with.

As far as health goes, the most important benefit of the temazcal is said to be cellular regeneration. The steam supposedly produces negative ions that are breathed in and directly affect the body’s cells, regenerating them. Positive changes in one’s health due to frequenting a temazcal are said to eventually translate into psychological benefits such as anger control, balance and self-confidence.

I received permission to attend Oseguera’s temazcal session and arrived on a Sunday morning.

temazcal in Jalisco
Godofredo Oseguera at the entrance to the temazcal he built on “land that called to him.”

The ritual, as Oseguera practices it, begins with a ceremony on a flat spot inside a circle of rocks under the open sky. Participants place offerings of flowers, fruit or seeds inside the circle and, as a conch shell is blown, face the four cardinal directions one by one, giving thanks for the benefits that have come to them from the north, south, east and west.

Participants enter the temazcal in a predetermined order. Red-hot volcanic rocks are then brought to the door. Each rock is greeted with the words, “Bienvenida, abuelita” (Welcome, grandma) and rubbed with copal incense.

The rock itself is considered our ancestor and wise beyond measure because it has been around for eons and knows Earth’s entire history. A pair of deer antlers were originally used to receive and place the rock — which is about 20 centimeters in diameter — into a flat depression in the center of the floor. When a sufficient number of abuelitas have been “seated,” the heavy cloth door is closed.

The participants are now invited to say a few words about what they are asking for or hope to gain from their experience. Next, the person in charge picks up a thick bundle of aromatic herbs (sage, eucalyptus, marigold, rosemary, thyme, lemongrass, etc.); dips this large “brush” into water; and then thoroughly wets both the abuelitas and the people sitting around them. Huge white clouds of water vapor now fill the small room, reducing visibility to almost zero. Even the narrow ray of light from the ceiling hole can barely be seen.

putting hot volcanic rocks into a Mexican temazcal
¡Bienvenida, abuelita!” Each hot rock is warmly greeted.

After several such ablutions, the participants are sweating profusely. Through the swirling white clouds comes Oseguera’s voice: “If anyone would like more heat,” he says, “you can move closer to the center of the room.”

Several people actually do this. They are in training to endure “the warrior’s temazcal,” which features much higher temperatures than the normal one.

Time passes. More rocks are brought into the room. More water is thrown on them and onto the participants until the air seems thick enough to cut with a knife. Now a strange whistling sound can be heard, coming from the well-saturated rocks.

“The ancients called this ‘el canto de las abuelitas’ [the song of the grandmas],” comments Oseguera.

temazcal in Jalisco Mexico
Decorations on the walls of a temazcal by Jalisco potter and artist Martín Navarro.

By this time, a psychological change has taken place inside the temazcal. The participants have shifted around, some sprawled out on the floor. They talk freely to the entire group. It’s a bit like a therapy session. There is talk of dreams, absent spouses, learning Spanish, living with cancer. Most speakers cannot be seen through the haze, but everyone participates. A woman experiences a new awareness. “Bienvenida a la niña interna,” (Welcome to your inner child) says Oseguera.

Twenty years ago, Oseguera was learning ceramics from indigenous people in the coastal town of El Tuito, Jalisco. At a certain point, they invited him to their local temazcal. For five years, he attended on a regular basis. One day, his friends announced they were giving him a gift.

“The gift they gave me was the honor of managing the temazcal,” said Oseguera with a smile. Later, he expressed the desire to have his own sweat lodge. “You must only build [it] on your own property,” he was told, “and you should only buy land after that land has first invited you to do so.”

Several years later, the right conditions for constructing a temazcal presented themselves to Oseguera. “There was a zapote tree near Teuchitlán under which I loved to sit and read,” he recounts. “Some strange things happened to me under that tree, and then one day a man came up to me and asked if I would be interested in buying the property on which I was sitting — for a very low price. I felt that this piece of land had indeed called to me and that the time had come for me to build my own temazcalli.”

offering of seeds to a Mexican temazcal
Before entering the temazcal, a participant makes an offering of seeds.

In some places, the temazcal ritual has been “watered down,” so to speak, or blatantly turned into just another tourist attraction, but Oseguera continues to offer traditional temazcal sessions. Beginning in September of 2022, he will welcome visitors to his new Crow Rock Center, in Jalisco’s Sierra del Águila, a 90-minute drive from Guadalajara, two hours from Lake Chapala.

If you’d like to have a real temazcalli experience, send him a message on WhatsApp at 384-101-5379, and an English-speaking friend of his will contact you.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

Suspect in the murder of Jesuit priests had municipal police on his side

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State police search for El Chueco in a remote area of the Sierra Tarahumara.
State police search for El Chueco in a remote area of the Sierra Tarahumara. Gobierno de Chihuahua

Complicity with municipal police allowed the alleged murderer of two priests to seize criminal control of a significant part of the Sierra Tarahumara region of Chihuahua, according to state authorities.

José Noriel “El Chueco” Portillo Gil – the 30-year-old presumed leader of a Sinaloa Cartel-affiliated criminal cell called Gente Nueva (New People) – is accused of murdering two elderly Jesuit priests and two other men in the municipality of Urique last month.

According to a Milenio newspaper report, Chihuahua authorities have established that Urique police were in cahoots with Portillo, who is also accused of murdering a United States citizen in 2018. That complicity appears to have been facilitated by El Chueco’s uncle, who is the municipal police director in Cerocahui, the town were the priests as well as a tour guide and a 22-year-old man were murdered.

Chihuahua Attorney General Roberto Fierro Duarte said in an interview that Portillo’s association with police afforded him power and impunity in the area. The presumed gangster is now in hiding as federal and state authorities conduct an extensive manhunt in the region.

National Guard troops patrol the town of Cerocahui, where state officials say the local police were working with El Chueco.
National Guard troops patrol the town of Cerocahui, where state officials say the local police were working with El Chueco.

While Portillo has so far remained elusive, authorities have detained 13 other people with links to him and his crime group. Among those who have been arrested are a cousin of El Chueco and a sicario, or cartel gunman, both of whom were in possession of Urique police force firearms. Neither gun had been reported as missing or stolen.

Chihuahua Security Minister Gilberto Loya told Milenio that it was “very important to determine legally what happened to those weapons.”

As a result of the weapons seizure, the state Security Ministry and the army conducted a review of the Urique municipal police force and discovered that many of its officers hadn’t passed control and confidence tests and therefore shouldn’t have been working as police, let alone carrying weapons. The authorities consequently seized a total of 56 firearms and ammunition that had been carried by the unaccredited officers.

Loya stressed that the police force shouldn’t have had weapons for 50 officers when fewer than 20 had passed the tests required to carry them. For the same reason, authorities seized 23 firearms and ammunition from police in the Sierra Tarahumara municipality of Maguarichi.

Weapons seized from unaccredited municipal police officers in Urique.
Weapons seized from unaccredited municipal police officers in Urique. AEI Chihuahua

Loya said it was important to confiscate weapons that may have been more at the service of organized crime than police officers dedicated to protecting their communities. He said that he has advised all municipal police forces in Chihuahua that they must present documentation within two weeks showing that their officers are certified to carry weapons.

The security minister also told Milenio that he is confident that Portillo will be apprehended soon. “The days of freedom he enjoys today are numbered,” Loya declared.

Assisted by three army helicopters, some 1,000 soldiers as well as a navy-trained state police SWAT team are currently searching for the accused murderer in the Sierra Tarahumara. “We’re going to caves, ravines, abandoned mines, [looking] between mountains [and] in the most remote places in the entire Sierra,” said Chihuahua Attorney General Roberto Fierro Duarte.

“We’ll capture him without a doubt,” the official asserted, although he conceded that authorities have a challenge on their hands. “This individual knows the Sierra very well. In addition he has lookouts and a range of [other] people … who allow him to escape quickly,” he said.

Authorities believe that Portillo – for whom a reward of 5 million pesos (US $243,000) has been offered for information leading to his arrest – is still in the Sierra Tarahumara region, but have nevertheless expanded their search to other parts of the state and country.

“We haven’t just been looking for him in … [the surrounds of] Cerocahui or Bahuichivo,” Loya said, referring in the second case to a small town where El Chueco owns a luxury home.

“… We’ve broadened [the search] to the rest of the state and other states of the republic and … [he’s also sought] in the United States.”

With reports from Milenio