Sunday, May 18, 2025

Exploring the city of San Luis Potosí, the gateway to the northeast

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The cathedral and main square of San Luis Potosí
The cathedral and main square of San Luis Potosí. Felipe Alfonso Castillo via Wikimedia Commons

One great thing about Mexico News Daily readers is that their interest in Mexico goes beyond where to go drink on the beach (not that there is anything wrong with that!).

So gentle readers, I’d like to present to you a city to check out, or perhaps check again: San Luis Potosí (also known as San Luis or SLP).

Despite its more northerly location, the city has much in common with the colonial cities in the center and south of the country. There are layers of architectural styles from the Baroque to 19th century French in its historic center, making it a World Heritage Site on par with cities such as Puebla, Guadalajara, and Oaxaca.

SLP’s geography and unique history give it both a different and familiar feel. It is best to describe it as a gateway to the northeast and Texas, as it lies halfway between Mexico City and the Texas border.

View of the artificial lake in Tangamanga Park 1 in the south of the city at a time when water was not scarce.
View of the artificial lake in Tangamanga Park 1 in the south of the city, at a time when water was not scarce. L8stbefore via Wikimedia Commons

The city lies north of the farthest expanses of the former Mexica Empire (also known as the Aztec Empire), but the Spanish and their newly conquered Mesoamerican, mostly Náhuatl-speaking allies pushed quickly north, sparking the Chichimeca War. Decades later, the invaders had won, in no small part because the Mesoamericans had no issue with conquering the Guachichils and other “uncivilized” nomadic cultures.

San Luis did not begin as a unified city, but rather as a number of villages, generally segregated into communities for the Spanish, the Mesoamerican and Guachichil indigenous and even for Ottoman Turks. This changed in 1592 when silver was discovered on the nearby San Pedro mountain. Within months, seven of these villages were reorganized into “San Luis Mexquitic,” 19 blocks around a main plaza and church. The old villages never completely disappeared. The historic center is still divided into barrios conserving names such as Tlaxcala and Tequisquiapan.

Upon being declared a city in 1592, it was renamed San Luis Potosí, a reference to the extremely productive silver mines in Bolivia.

The silver gave out, but San Luis managed to avoid being abandoned because it was located at the juncture of two main thoroughfares: an east-west corridor that links the northern interior with the port of Tampico and another that connects central Mexico to Texas.

Mosaic mural by Marissa Martínez almost ready for inauguration at the Faculty of Psychology of
Mosaic mural by Marissa Martínez almost ready for inauguration at the Faculty of Psychology of the San Luis Potosí Autonomous University. Leigh Thelmadatter

The treasures of the historic center include the cathedral, Aranzazu Chapel and Guadalupe Sanctuary, which show the evolution of Mexico’s Baroque into very early Neoclassical. More show the development of architecture up until the Mexican Revolution. More modern structures have since been constructed in more peripheral areas, in large part to conserve the historic center.

But San Luis is not a city frozen in time. Its location is still economically strategic, and has led to the development of industry. Such activity is zoned away from the historic center and other desirable areas to live, but the growth it has spurred has led to the introduction of many modern conveniences such as shopping and entertainment, museums and grand urban parks.

Like other northern cities, San Luis is located in an arid region, so water and temperatures are considerations. Issues are not as severe as in cities such as Monterrey; SLP gets more rain and less wild temperature swings, but the drought hitting the far northeast right now is a factor in San Luis as well.

San Luis has not received the same kind of tourist attention as other colonial cities. Its main season is still Holy Week because of its spectacular Procession of Silence held on Good Friday.

The Procession of Silence is held each year in the historic center of the city to commemorate the death of Christ.
The Procession of Silence is held each year in the historic center of the city to commemorate the death of Christ. Italiaugalde via Wikimedia Commons

The historic center can be explored in a few days and is quite walkable, but the city also serves as a base for interesting day and weekend trips. These include the Pueblos Mágicos of Real de Catorce, a former abandoned mining town, and Santa Maria del Río, famous for its silk rebozos (shawls).

There are other colonial-era towns a short distance away, including Mexquitic and Venado with colonial churches and rural food. A promising wine industry has started just to the west, led by Cava Quinantilla in Moctezuma. Natural treasures include the recently protected Sierra de San Miguelito and the Joya Honda volcano.

If you read typical tourist sites, you might think all people eat here is enchiladas potosinas. They are delicious with red salsa, goat cheese and vegetables, but menus here carry many items with familiar names such as pozole and menudo. This is because the Mesoamerican diet was brought here, including the maguey plant to make pulque. A few preparations from the gathering of local foods are hard to find but not impossible. The most important are made from cactus fruit, seasonally used to make colonche, a mild alcoholic drink and queso de tuna, a dried fruit pulp.

The good news is that SLP versions of these dishes tend to be less spicy than their counterparts in Mexico City. Pulque and mezcal are making a comeback with brands like Júrame receiving national attention. Pan de Pulque Casero has taken advantage of this to return the making of bread using pulque as a leavening agent. More modern foodstuffs include one of Mexico’s few producers of chocolate candies, Costanzo Chocolates, founded by an Italian immigrant.

Left: pozole rojo at <a href=”https://www.facebook.com/antojitoselpozole/”>Antojitos El Pozole</a>, a popular local chain eatery. Right: various versions of pulque bread from Pan de Pulque Casero.
Left: pozole rojo at Antojitos El Pozole, a popular local chain eatery. Right: various versions of pulque bread from Pan de Pulque Casero. Leigh Thelmadatter

The question I always get is, ”Is it safe?” Admittedly, there have been problems with Highway 57 that links SLP with Querétaro. The city did not rank well on a national survey asking locals about their perception of crime in their cities. However, residents I spoke with indicate that much is related to the recent growth of the city and mostly limited to certain areas. I felt quite safe lodging in the historic center. Its location and growth has started to attract foreign residents, especially over the past 10 years.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Peanut butter: good for more than sandwiches

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If you can't find natural peanut butter in your area, making it yourself is a snap.
If you can't find natural peanut butter in your area, making it yourself is a snap.

While we may think that peanut butter— the “paté of childhood”— is a distinctly North American food, the Incas were making and using it hundreds of years before John Harvey Kellogg introduced it at his famed U.S. sanitarium in the late 1800s. Peanut butter must have been on the world food radar though; at about the same time, Québécois chemist Marcellus Gilmore Edson filed a patent for peanut paste, basically the same as what we know (and love) as peanut butter.

As long as we’re discussing surprising things, here’s another: Who do you think is the biggest producer, and user, of peanut butter? China. That’s where almost half the world’s total production of peanut butter happens, and you can bet they’re not using it for PB&J sandwiches.

The truth is that peanuts are a powerhouse food, loaded with easily digestible proteins, fiber, vitamins like E and B and nine essential amino acids. They’re inexpensive and easy to grow and have been shown to help lower cholesterol too. Peanut butter in its purest form is simply ground roasted peanuts with a little salt, and while our go-to form of eating it may be paired with strawberry jelly and spread between two slices of bread, other cultures have developed much more interesting (and delicious) ways of incorporating it into their diets, like the Spicy Peanut Sauce below. Versatile, easy and delicious, you can use it with all kinds of shrimp, veggie, chicken, beef and noodle or rice dishes. Atole — which you may know — takes on a rich flavor with peanut butter added; and the Chicken & Mango Soba Salad, while Thai in origin, translates perfectly to Mexican ingredients.

I can’t find natural peanut butter where I live, and so I’ve learned to make it myself, thanks to a friend’s suggestion. She uses a blender; I use a food processor. It’s not quite as smooth and creamy as I’d like, but still does the trick.

If you have a source for raw or fresh-roasted peanuts, by all means use those, but commercially roasted, easily available cacahuates salados or dry-roasted peanuts will work too. The only caveat is that packaged peanuts for snacking often have more salt than you’d want in peanut butter, so taste them before using. If you can find unsalted ones, that’s best. (Raw peanuts should be roasted before using to make peanut butter, at 177 C/350 F for about 25 minutes, stirring once. Cool completely before using.)

Homemade Peanut Butter

  • About 2 cups roasted or dry-roasted peanuts, preferably unsalted
  • 1 tsp. coconut oil
  • Salt

Place peanuts in food processor or blender. Process on high 4-5 minutes; peanuts will go in stages from being crushed, to crumbs, to a dry paste, and then suddenly to a fairly smooth and creamy peanut butter. Add coconut oil and process another minute to blend. If peanuts were unsalted, add salt to taste.

This flavor-packed sauce is perfect for tofu satay but also pairs well with meat and vegetables.
This flavor-packed sauce is perfect for tofu satay and pairs well with meat and vegetables.

Spicy Peanut Sauce

  • ½ cup creamy peanut butter
  • ¼ cup hot water
  • 2 Tbsp. Thai red curry paste
  • 2 Tbsp. brown sugar or grated piloncillo
  • 2 Tbsp. Sriracha
  • 1 Tbsp. soy sauce
  • 1 Tbsp. rice vinegar
  • 1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lime juice
  • 1 tsp. minced garlic
  • ½ tsp. red pepper flakes
  • 2 scallions, thinly sliced
  • Salt to taste

In medium bowl, whisk peanut butter and hot water. Stir in curry paste, sugar, Sriracha, soy sauce, vinegar, lime juice, garlic, red pepper and scallions. Season with salt. Use immediately or store refrigerated up to two weeks. –www.seriouseats.com

Iced Peanutty Coffee

This combo is a sweet twist on a typical afternoon pick-me-up.
This combo is a sweet twist on a typical afternoon pick-me-up.
  • 1 cup ice
  • 2 tsp. smooth peanut butter
  • 2 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk
  • 1 cup cold coffee
  • Optional: 1 Tbsp. chocolate syrup

Blend together and serve.

Chicken & Mango Soba Salad with Peanut Dressing

  • ½ cup smooth peanut butter, natural or regular
  • ¼ cup hot water
  • 3 Tbsp. soy sauce
  • 2 Tbsp. rice vinegar
  • 1 Tbsp. sesame oil
  • 1 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger
  • 1 Tbsp. lime juice
  • ½ tsp. Sriracha
  • Salt & pepper
  • ½ tsp. sugar
  • 2 cups string beans or sugar snap peas, fresh or frozen
  • 8 ounces soba noodles*
  • 2 cups shredded cooked chicken
  • ½ large mango, thinly sliced
  • ½ Persian cucumber, thinly sliced
  • 1 cup cilantro
  • 1-2 serrano chiles, thinly sliced
This colorful chilled salad is perfect for hot summer days.
This colorful chilled salad is perfect for hot summer days.

In medium bowl, whisk peanut butter, hot water, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger, lime juice, Sriracha and sugar until smooth. Season with salt. Set aside. Steam or parboil peas/green beans till crisp-tender. Rinse with cold water; set aside. Cook noodles according to package instructions. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool.

In large serving bowl, toss noodles with chicken, mango and dressing. Add two-thirds of peas/string beans, cucumber, cilantro and chiles. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, top with remaining veggies, cilantro and chiles.

* Substitute another rice noodle or even capellini if you can’t find soba noodles in the Asian section of your grocery store.

Peanut Atole

  • ½ cup natural smooth peanut butter
  • 1 cup milk
  • ½ cup masa harina
  • 3¼ cups water, plus more as needed
  • 3 Tbsp. brown sugar or grated piloncillo
  • Salt

Combine peanut butter and milk in a blender until combined. Pour masa into large saucepan; set over medium heat. Immediately add water in slow, thin stream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Bring to a simmer; whisk in peanut-milk, sugar and pinch of salt. Return to simmer, lower heat to low and simmer gently, whisking, for 3 minutes. Thin with additional water as needed to create a thick-yet-drinkable beverage. Add more sugar or salt if desired.

No-Bake Peanut Butter Bars

  • 3 Tbsp. butter
  • 1 cup peanut butter, smooth or crunchy
  • Pinch salt
  • ½ cup cookie crumbs or shredded coconut
  • About 1 cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 cup chocolate chips or chopped dark chocolate
  • ½ Tbsp. coconut oil or butter
  • Toppings: Flaky sea salt, shredded coconut, sliced almonds, crushed pretzels
Like Reese's cups? These are better.
Like Reese’s cups? These are better.

Heat butter in skillet until bubbly and brownish but not burned. Add peanut butter; turn off heat. Stir until peanut butter melts, then stir in crumbs/coconut. Sweeten to taste with confectioners’ sugar. Spread mixture into parchment-lined 8-by-8-inch pan.

Add chocolate chips and coconut oil to a small pot; melt on stovetop over low, stirring constantly. (Alternatively, microwave in 20-second bursts, stirring between each one.) Spread melted chocolate over peanut butter layer. Sprinkle on any other toppings. Refrigerate until layers set, about 1 hour. Cut into bars or squares. Store in refrigerator.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Taxis, Uber, and the search for an affordable ride home

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uber
Ride-hailing apps are not going away. deposit photos

I’ve been in a lot of taxis since first coming to Mexico 20 years ago — easily thousands. I’ve not had a vehicle for much of that time, though even when I did, I would still take a taxi to certain destinations when, for example, I knew parking would be scarce.

While I used to find the city buses to be a perfectly fine way to get around, that’s changed with such drastic increases in traffic (and simultaneously, bus fare) that have made any bus ride an event that might very well get you to your destination at the same speed as walking would have.

So, if you don’t have a car and don’t live in a place with a metro, then a taxi’s the way to go.

Most of my taxi rides are fairly uneventful. For about a third of my rides, there’s not a word spoken. For the others, it’s always the same conversation: where am I from, do I like Mexico, isn’t it funny that you’re here when so many of us want to go there, etc. There’s a list of probably 10 topics that typically get covered, but I don’t mind. I like to talk to people, so I’m usually happy to chitchat while we travel.

And while more than a few of them have been such crazy drivers that I’ve spent most of the ride praying to simply get to my destination safely, most drivers are very nice.

One thing that separates taxis in Xalapa from those in other areas of Mexico is that here, they’re still quite cheap. I routinely pay 50 pesos or less to most places in the city. There was a time when I’d haggle over the fare and get pretty worked up when I found it to be obvious that they were charging me a special “gringa” price, but aside from an occasional complaint (“But they always charge me 40 for this trip!”), I’ve mostly calmed down.

The main thing that’s helped me to calm down is the presence of ride-hailing apps. We don’t have Uber in Xalapa — it seems that taxi drivers have been successful in preventing the platform from establishing itself here — but we do have one called InDriver that (I think) works much the same way.

To use it, I put in my location and the address of the place I want to go, I offer a price which is slightly higher than I might offer otherwise since the app charges drivers 10%, and it goes out to drivers close by. Though I pay 10-15 pesos more for the ride than I would if I’d gone out to hail it on the street, I love knowing that they’re not going to surprise me with a ridiculous fare at the end; I also like not having to give directions on how to get to my destination.

A Xalapa taxi waits at a corner.
A Xalapa taxi waits at a corner.

Almost everyone who’s arrived through InDriver has been someone driving a taxi; at least in my city, taxi drivers are working through it rather than competing against it. The prices they charge and the prices that are typical on the app are similar, so it seems to have just become one more tool for them.

I’ve learned, however, that this is not the way things are everywhere.

When I visited a good friend in Los Cabos a few years ago, there was a big fight going on between taxi drivers and Uber. It’s one that I’ve read has gone on quite a bit throughout the Americas, including in my own home country.

In Los Cabos, an area of Mexico that thrives on tourism and is accustomed to a large presence of foreigners, taxis typically charged what their counterparts in New York City did. And this is the part where I’m personally conflicted: I think that those prices are ridiculous because it’s so much more than I’m used to paying where I live (and so much more than I know most middle-class Mexicans can afford). While many foreigners can afford to pay those prices, the prices themselves are excessive and ensure that taxis are simply inaccessible to large swaths of people.

On the other hand, if there are workers who are accustomed to being paid a certain amount and enjoying a certain degree of steady work, it’s perfectly understandable that they don’t want to lose that. I’m accustomed to being paid a certain amount of money for the work I do. If I suddenly started getting paid less or not receiving the work because others were showing up to charge half of what I do for exact the same thing, I’d be pretty upset about it.

So as a worker, I sympathize with taxi drivers: I’m also a freelance worker that depends on making a certain amount of money each month to meet my expenses, something that results in intense and consistent monthly hustling. As volatile and varied as my income might be, my financial obligations are incredibly predictable and ever-growing.

But as a consumer that needs access to rides, I sympathize with them exactly none. If they want to keep driving, then they should sign up for these apps as drivers in my own city have, because it means they’ll keep giving rides even when no one stops them on the side of the road or calls their dispatcher. If they don’t want to, then I’m guessing it’s likely an indication that they’re charging excessively because they can, and ride-hailing apps are a threat to their established inflated prices.

Now that the Mexico City airport – along with a whole host of similar other places (my local mall for example) – is officially not letting in ride-hailing app drivers, taxi drivers there might see a slight increase in their use. But anyone can simply leave the grounds to meet their drivers, which I believe is what many will do.

It might be time for taxi drivers to stop their uphill battle against ride-hailing apps. They’re not going away. Taxi drivers who pay to line up for access to high-paying customers … I wouldn’t put my money on the survival of that gig.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.

Nigh is the day of judgment: the week at the morning news conferences

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The president expressed his respect for Jesus Christ on Monday.
The president expressed his respect for Jesus Christ on Monday. Presidencia de la República

President López Obrador took to the skies last weekend to fly over his flagship Maya Train project, the 1,525-kilometer railroad under construction in the country’s southeast. AMLO previously pledged the railway would be completed in 2023 but work on a section of track in Quintana Roo has been suspended since May due to a federal court ruling.

Monday

The president arrived to a new week armed with a message of love. “Our adversaries, as they have not been able to impose themselves, want us to enter into an argument with the churches … love and peace … if you ask me to express who is my most admired social leader, who I respect most for his dedication in favor of the dispossessed, it’s Jesus Christ,” the tabasqueño said.

“With all due respect, a priest, a bishop, a pastor cannot say that violence must be responded to with violence … Let it be heard well, let it be heard far: since we are in government there has been a 30% reduction in crimes of federal jurisdiction,” López Obrador declared, following renewed criticism from religious figureheads about violence.

Yet later in the conference, the president repeated a threat against one of the United States’ most famous women. “If he is taken to the United States and sentenced to a maximum penalty to die in prison, the campaign to dismantle the Statue of Liberty must begin,” he said about the extradition of the long-imprisoned investigative journalist Julian Assange.

Tuesday

The president confirmed he was sending a bill to eliminate daylight saving time on Tuesday.

Health Minister Jorge Alcocer outlined the rationale for the proposal. “Adults need three to seven days to adapt to the time change and the child population requires more time. The lack of synchronization with the environment alters our internal temporal order and causes physical and mental problems,” Alcocer said, before adding that daylight saving time changes increase the risk of depression and suicide.

Health Minister Jorge Alcocer speaks on Tuesday.
Health Minister Jorge Alcocer speaks on Tuesday. Presidencia de la República

“It’s advisable to return to the standard time, which is when the time of the sundial coincides with the time of the social clock, the clock of God,” Alcocer added.

Later in the conference, the president defended U.S. Ambassador to Mexico Ken Salazar after criticism of him was reported in The New York Times. “He is my friend and he is a good, sensible man. A friend of [U.S.] President Biden. A very responsible politician, from Colorado, who comes from below, of Mexican origin,” he said.

López Obrador had further words of sympathy for the leader of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), “Alito” Moreno, whose home in Campeche city was breached with a battering ram by investigators. “I would like to express my dissatisfaction with the way in which a judicial procedure was carried out in Campeche … You know that the gentleman [Moreno] isn’t a saint in my book, but I do not agree with the procedure,” AMLO said.

Wednesday

With truth at the ready, government misinformation expert Elizabeth García Vilchis brought clarity to the Mexican public in the “Who’s who in the lies of the week” section.

García highlighted an accusation that the president had criticized the Jewish origins of a politically vocal advertising executive. García added that the newspaper Reforma later issued a retraction and apology to its readers for the claim.

García was also dissatisfied with reporting on the Dos Bocas refinery in Tabasco, after it was inaugurated by the president. She said it was false that the no oil would be refined there until 2024 and clarified that a testing phase would begin, allowing for full operation in 2023.

García also named her first “expert of the week,” awarding the ironic prize to National Action Party (PAN) Senator Xóchitl Gálvez, who’d gone from refinery enthusiast to critic.

This week, Elizabeth García Vilchis announced a satrical award for an opposition lawmaker.
This week, Elizabeth García Vilchis announced a satirical award for an opposition lawmaker. Presidencia de la República

Despite all the newspapers allegedly against his government, the president said he retained his peace of mind. “The truth is I do not hate anyone. I have no enemies, I only have adversaries. I don’t get bitter and my heart will not harden … I try to keep a sense of humor,” he said.

Thursday

The president’s predecessor was the main point of discussion at Thursday’s conference. The head of the Financial Intelligence Unit (UIF), Pablo Gómez, announced that former president Enrique Peña Nieto was under investigation. Gómez said the UIF detected a scheme by which Peña had received 26 million pesos (US $1.27 million) through international bank transfers.

The UIF is well-versed in corruption matters: Its previous chief, Santiago Nieto, resigned in November after a lavish wedding in Guatemala caused scandal. Nieto was later put under investigation for acquiring four vehicles and a property worth a combined 40 million pesos (US $1.9 million) while in the post.

Pablo Gómez, chief of the federal Financial Intelligence Unit.
Pablo Gómez, chief of the federal Financial Intelligence Unit. Presidencia de la República

Gómez confirmed there was no standing criminal case against former president Felipe Calderón. The UIF head called Tamaulipas Governor Francisco García Cabeza de Vaca “a scandal,” refused to say whether Alito Moreno was under investigation for corruption by the UIF and didn’t rule out an investigation into former president Carlos Salinas de Gortari.

“The government does not have an agenda for persecution of a political nature,” Gómez assured.

Friday

López Obrador reiterated his moral opposition to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, but dismissed the notion of any political reaction. “We don’t agree with invasions but we don’t want to participate in international conflicts. We have opted for neutrality,” he said.

“Wars are disastrous because people suffer a lot, and innocent people suffer,” the president added. However, he denied there had been any breakdown in relations with the Russian government.

López Obrador conceded it was likely that U.S. women would arrive at clinics in border cities after new restrictions on abortion in many U.S. states, but he appeared more concerned by the arrival of another group at the border. “He is going too far. It is not up to him to make that decision … it’s up to the U.S. government,” López Obrador said of Texas Governor Greg Abbott, who had authorized the return of migrants to the border.

“It’s an aberration, we don’t agree with it … isn’t it in the Bible that we must protect the outsider?” asked the man from Tepetitán, Tabasco.

Mexico News Daily

AMLO dismisses Texas plan to send back migrants as ‘vulgar and immoral’

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The plan by Abbott, left, is outside his jurisdiction, says López Obrador.
The plan by Abbott, left, is outside his jurisdiction, says López Obrador.

President López Obrador on Friday described Texas Governor Greg Abbott’s plan to use state security forces to detain illegal immigrants as “vulgar” and “immoral.”

Abbott on Thursday issued an executive order “authorizing and empowering the Texas National Guard and the Texas Department of Public Safety to apprehend illegal immigrants who illegally cross the border between ports of entry and return them to the border,” according to a press release.

“While President Biden refuses to do his job and enforce the immigration laws enacted by Congress, the state of Texas is once again stepping up and taking unprecedented action to protect Americans and secure our southern border,” the governor said.

López Obrador told reporters at his regular news conference that “it is not [Abbott’s] legal responsibility to make that decision” but one of the federal government.

“Even though we are respectful of the sovereignty of other countries, we see that there are anti-immigrant campaigns for electoral purposes. I consider it immoral, political,” he said. 

“… Doing this is very vulgar and it doesn’t have a legal foundation because it’s not up to [state authorities],” López Obrador said. “I’m sure that President Biden doesn’t approve … and the State Department is already questioning the measure,” he said. 

Abbott’s executive order came less than two week after 51 mainly Mexican migrants perished after being trapped in stifling conditions in a tractor-trailer found abandoned in San Antonio, Texas. The Republican governor is vying to win a third term at an election against Democratic Party candidate Beto O’Rourke in November.

The United States is currently seeing record numbers of migrants arriving at its southern border. There were 1.7 million encounters between United States Customs and Border Protection personnel and migrants in the 2021 U.S. fiscal year, an increase of 77% compared to 2019. In the first seven months of the current fiscal year, encounters were up 73% and had already exceeded numbers for the entire 2019 fiscal year. 

The press release issued by Abbott’s office said the Biden administration’s decision to end Title 42 expulsions [to stop the spread of the coronavirus] and the Remain in Mexico policy has led to historic levels of illegal crossings, with 5,000 migrants being apprehended over the July 4th weekend, creating a border crisis that has overrun communities along the border and across Texas.

López Obrador asserted that the executive order Abbott believes will help address that crisis won’t win him votes among migrants in Texas.

“I don’t believe that the migrants who have … contributed to the construction of that great country, … [including] of course our compatriots will like this anti-immigrant policy, it’s an aberration,” he said. 

With reports from Reforma and Bloomberg

Photo contest winners celebrate Michoacán, ‘the soul of Mexico’

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First-place winner in Michoacán's photo contest.
Street vendors in traditional dress was the first-place winner in Michoacán's photo contest.

The government of Michoacán has announced the winners of its Soul of Mexico photo contest celebrating the traditions and beauty of the state’s Easter Week celebrations.

The photos were published to the state’s Instagram account and the winners were determined by the number of likes they received.

First-place winner Christian González received over 4,200 likes for her photo of a young girl and an older woman selling vegetables in the street while wearing traditional dress of the region. She won a 15,000 peso gift certificate for the Casa de las Artesanías de Michoacán, a state institution dedicated to the direct sale of the crafts from artisans to the public from the state’s seven different sociocultural regions. González also won a two night hotel stay for two people and a dinner for two in Morelia.

Second place winner was Cesar A. Laredo with his photo of a young boy dressed in a traditional Day of the Dead costume and face paint with the setting sun behind him. Laredo won a 10,000 peso gift certificate, a one night hotel stay and dinner for two.

A young boy in a Day of the Dead costume placed second.
A young boy in a Day of the Dead costume placed second.

César Vázquez’s third place photo of the Easter Week procession won him a 5,000 peso gift certificate, while Veriz Hernández and Itzel Victoriano where also recognized in fourth and fifth place for their photos of a man and a fireworks tower and a flatbottom boat in the foreground of  an expansive body of water.

The photos will be used to promote tourism to Michoacan, in particular its special Easter Week celebrations which are a longstanding tradition for tourists from around the world and include an extensive list of activities in each of the state regions.

A photo of an Easter Week procession won third place.
A photo of an Easter Week procession won third place.

With reports from Al Torre and Mi Morelia

TikToker closes Guadalajara highway because he can

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Vehicles are backed up behind a roadblock by TikToker Fofo Márquez
Vehicles are backed up behind a roadblock by TikToker Fofo Márquez, left, in Guadalajara on Thursday.

A young social media influencer attracted criticism after boasting that he had shut down a busy road in Guadalajara by parking luxury cars across all three lanes.

“Look, I closed periférico just for me, showing once again what money and power can do in Mexico. … People are very annoyed,” said Rodolfo Márquez, better known as Fofo Márquez, in a video posted to his TikTok account on Thursday.

Although he claimed to have shut down the Guadalajara ring road, he was in fact on the Matute Remus bridge, which is on Lázaro Cárdenas Avenue and is not part of periférico. “I closed it because I wanted to,” he said in another video.

Márquez’s TikTok account, which was followed by almost 800,000 people, was apparently deleted between Thursday and Friday, but footage of the popular influencer on the bridge remains online.

Some social media users criticized him for exacerbating traffic problems in the Jalisco capital, while one Twitter user called Márquez a “headless imbecile” and called on others to stop making “stupid people” famous by following them.

Fofo’s social media success is built on his self-aggrandizing boasts about his wealth. Champagne, nightclubs, fast cars and female models have all featured in his popular TikTok videos.

Márquez claims to be the heir to a significant fortune which, according to one report, was made in the footwear industry. He has previously attracted attention – and criticism – for faking his own death.

With reports from Informador and El Heraldo de México 

134 Coahuila restaurants sign on to Braille menus program

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A Coahuila restaurant's Braille menu.
A Coahuila restaurant's Braille menu.

In an attempt to develop more inclusive tourism, 134 restaurants in the northern state of Coahuila have signed on to an initiative that will provide Braille menus in their restaurants for the visually impaired.

The new menus are already in use in Saltillo, in the state’s northern region referred to as Carbonífera, and in Torreón. Next up will be Arteaga, Monclova, Parras de la Fuente, Cuatro Ciénegas and Ciudad Acuña.

The initiative is led by Coahuila’s Ministry of Tourism and Development of Magical Towns and the Sustainable Tourism department of the state’s Ministry of Tourism (SECTUR). Mexico’s National Institute of Statistics and Geography reported in 2010 that 37,000 residents of Coahuila are either blind or visually impaired.

SECTUR has offered any restaurant that wants to participate the option of sending a version of their menu in a Word document and SECTUR will print and deliver copies in Braille.

The menus are just one facet of a larger project to develop and expand ways to make the state’s restaurants, hotels, and attractions more accessible for everyone. Beyond the moral obligation to cater to all residents, inclusive tourism just makes good business sense, explains Tourism Minister Azucena Ramos.

“It’s to satisfy a demand that exists in the market, to increase competition and the growth of destinations and tourism business where handicapped and special needs people are increasingly demanding their own participation in tourism activities,” said Ramos.

A sensitivity training workshop in March helped identify and take advantage of opportunities to create more inclusive tourism. Other state initiatives include providing wheelchairs for residents who need them, providing handicapped residents with special identification cards, and hosting various public workshops on creating inclusive public spaces.

With reports from Vanguardia

Ridding Mexico’s islands of invasive species has allowed the birds to come back

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The Laysan albatross, named for an island in Hawaii, now thrives on Mexico's Guadalupe Island thanks to the removal of invasive species.
The Laysan albatross, named for an island in Hawaii, now thrives on Mexico's Isla Guadalupe thanks to the removal of invasive species. GECI

Many of Mexico’s Pacific islands were once home to vast colonies of birds before human beings appeared on the scene … accompanied by rats, cats and goats, just to name a few of the invasive species that soon wiped out the seabirds.

Twenty-four years ago, a group of concerned Mexican biologists decided to do something about it. They formed a nonprofit organization called the Ecology and Island Conservation Group (GECI) and began the long, slow task of restoring the islands, one by one, to a semblance of what they had been before invasive species turned their ecosystems upside down.

Although the task was daunting, they have succeeded admirably.

“We have been able to turn things around on 39 of Mexico’s islands,” I was told by GECI’s executive director, Federico Méndez. “Our organization — which was founded in 1998 — began with a special focus on northwestern Mexico because here we find the biggest concentration of islands and the greatest number of species in trouble … along with, of course, the greatest number of invasive species, the most problematic of which are mammals like feral cats, rats, mice, sheep, goats, wild dogs, wild donkeys and rabbits. These have caused extinctions on islands all around the world and Mexico is no exception. Our country has lost 24 species and of those 24 species that will never come back, 21 of them were island dwellers. Of these, 17 were wiped out by imported animals like cats and rats. So 70% of the extinctions in Mexico were caused by invasive mammals on islands. This is why our organization is doing what it’s doing.”

An intrepid biologist squeezes among the rocks to check a nest.
An intrepid biologist squeezes among the rocks to check a nest. Alejandra Fabila

After nearly 25 years of hard work, GECI was successful in removing 70 populations of invasive species from 39 of Mexico’s Islands. “We started in the islands of the northwest,” continued Méndez, “including well-known sites like Guadalupe Island. Then we began to explore other areas like the Gulf of California and the Mexican Caribbean.”

Méndez gives credit to what he calls the pioneers in eradicating invasive species: countries like Australia and New Zealand, which are islands and depend on their biodiversity for nature tourism. “Here in Mexico,” he said, “we are almost on a par with them in this kind of work. We have seen more than 200 species come back in every category: birds, mammals, reptiles, plants — all thanks to the simple removal of invasive species.”

Once the invaders have been removed from an island, the question arises: will the original inhabitants come back?

I put the question to GECI’s Yuliana Bedolla, who specializes in seabirds.

Yuliana Bedolla, director of GECI's Seabird Project, is studying for her doctorate in Germany.
Yuliana Bedolla, director of GECI’s Seabird Project, is studying for her doctorate in Germany.

“This is our special concern,” she said. “Many species of birds that were killed off by cats or rats ended up with the impression that these islands were no longer safe. In some parts of the world we know that — after the elimination of the cats or rats — the birds have returned, but here in the Pacific this process seemed to be taking an awfully long time, so we began to use ‘social attraction techniques.’

“These were first tried in the USA and now they are being used practically everywhere in the world. They have been wonderfully successful! So we have been promoting their use here in Mexico. The idea is to create artificial colonies, taking advantage of the fact that seabirds like to congregate in large groups. So we create decoys, life-like representations of the birds in positions of repose or courtship. We also use mirrors to create the impression that there are lots more birds around. Along with the decoys and the mirrors, we use sound. These are recordings made in well-established colonies. In the case of those seabirds which nest underground, or in the spaces between rocks, we install small boxes which they like to use for their nests.”

Bedolla said the audio recordings are used during the nesting season, which in many cases is spring. “We have an amplifier and loudspeakers together with solar panels to provide power. Of course we play these sounds by day or by night, depending on when that species is active. So we set up the equipment in spring and turn it off in summer or autumn, once the birds have left the island. The social attraction techniques give the birds the impression that this island they’ve come to is a nice safe place where they can nest every year.”

Bird lovers around the world are amazed at the transformations that have taken place in Mexico’s islands thanks to these techniques.

Pairs of Albatross decoys simulating courtship rituals were placed on Guadalupe Island by GECI.
Pairs of albatross decoys simulating courtship rituals were placed on Isla Guadalupe by GECI. GECI/J.A. Soriano

In Isla Rasa, for example, rats were eliminated and very soon, elegant terns and Heermann’s gulls came back to breed.

Isla Guadalupe, better known in English as Guadalupe Island, was once home to more endemic bird species than any other island off the Pacific coast of North America, before they were decimated by invasives. But recently, something marvelous has happened. Once goats were removed, Guadalupe’s vegetation rebounded and a colony of Laysan albatrosses materialized out of nowhere. Soon, populations of auklets, murrelets, storm petrels, gulls, terns, boobies, pelicans, and cormorants began to reappear as if by magic.

In July 2021, GECI and Hawaii’s Pacific Rim Conservation flew 21 black-footed albatross eggs 6,000 kilometers from Hawaii to Isla Guadalupe on a commercial airline, because their home beaches were flooded.  Eighteen eggs hatched and the albatrosses are faring fine. More egg rescues are being planned.

Once invasive species have been removed and seabirds have been lured back, GECI has to make sure the invaders don’t reappear.

Poster showing a few of the creatures now flourishing on Isla Isabel thanks to the removal of invasive species.
Poster showing a few of the creatures now flourishing on Isla Isabel thanks to the removal of invasive species.

“For this,” Federico Méndez said, “we have special biosecurity programs to assure that the fishermen, sailors or tourists are not bringing in something dangerous. For example the boats could be harboring a rat, or shoes could be contaminated with seeds. The success of all this depends on teamwork, of close communication and collaboration with the local people.”

“All this is complicated,” Méndez said. “We have to work with the local people, we have to work with the government and we have to respect the particular character and reality of each island or archipelago. In reality, each one has its own protocol. Meanwhile, reinfection is always a worry. Just one pair of rats could fill an island with 5,000 descendants in only a year.”

A dramatic example of the lengths to which islanders might go to catch just one rat and prevent reinfection occurred on Isla Natividad in 2019.

In the wee hours of the night, a local resident had shone his flashlight in his shrubbery and spotted a lively and healthy Rattus rattus, a black rat. He was shocked. Like all the residents of Natividad, he knew his island was home not only to auklets, cormorants, pelicans, osprey and herons, but also to the planet’s largest colony of black-vented shearwaters, of which every soul on the island was immensely proud.

A biologist monitors a month-old shearwater chick during the great rat chase on Guadalupe Island.
A biologist monitors a month-old shearwater chick during the great rat chase on Isla Guadalupe. GECI/J.A. Soriano

So began the great rat chase.

Soon, every family on the island was setting rat traps and GECI brought in Merlina, a rat-sniffing dog.

Merlina and a camera trap eventually confirmed it:  yes, there truly was a Rattus rattus on the island.

Now the competition was on. Tomahawk cage traps, Sherman metal box traps, camera traps, T-Rex traps, and every sort of trap known to humanity was employed by Natividad residents, along with 13 experts from GECI. They had to work around the clock just to keep all the traps functional.

Fishermen’s homes on Isla Isabel. Small communities like this one can be found on even the most remote islands.
Fishermen’s homes on Isla Isabel. Small communities like this one can be found on even the most remote islands. John Pint

Every soul on the island wanted to be the one to catch the rat, which had now been named “Chapito” after the wily drug trafficker who had once been so clever at avoiding capture.

This went on for six long months, and then … Well, to find out what happened and to fully appreciate this delightfully written, well-illustrated story, I urge you to read the Audubon Magazine article “How to Catch a Rat,” which is accessible online for no charge.

You may also want to check out the stunning images in GECI’s online photo gallery where you can pay a virtual visit to five of Mexico’s “restored” islands, without getting your feet wet.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

A seabird specialist from GECI installs artificial burrows for Cassin’s auklets on the steep slopes of Isla Coronado.
A seabird specialist from GECI installs artificial burrows for Cassin’s auklets on the steep slopes of Isla Coronado. GECI/J.A. Soriano

 

A masked booby with its chick.
A masked booby with its chick. GECI

 

The albatross has the greatest wingspan of any species of seabird. The wings of this Laysan albatross measure over two meters.
The albatross has the greatest wingspan of any species of seabird. The wings of this Laysan albatross measure over two meters. GECI/J.A. Soriano

Official blames eclipse for dead fish in Nayarit

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Dead fish on a Nayarit beach.
Dead fish on a Nayarit beach.

There are conflicting reasons as to why large numbers of dead fish have recently washed up on the Nayarit coast: a biologist says that toxic algae is to blame, but a Civil Protection official believes that a lunar eclipse is the culprit.

Dead fish have appeared this week on beaches in municipalities such as Santiago Ixcuintla and San Blas.

Mario Alberto Ortiz Jiménez, an academic at the Technological Institute of Tepic, said on social media that the decomposition of toxic microalgae is causing the fish to die.

“The [U.S.] National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration has reported high levels of chlorophyll … off the northern coast of Nayarit since June 28. The high concentration of chlorophyll corresponds to a high proliferation of microalgae. Microalgae are often toxic and upon dying they decrease the concentration of oxygen in the water, causing fish to die, as occurred … on Playa El Colorado,” he wrote, referring to a beach on the Santiago Ixcuintla coast.

Ortiz said that rain is causing excess fertilizer from agricultural fields to flow into the ocean, “where it fertilizes the microalgae.”

“If that wasn’t enough, discharges of wastewater from Tepic … provide more nutrients for the microalgae, aggravating the problem. Earth is a system that is very sensitive to human activity. Anything we do will end up affecting our Earth’s ecosystem,” he added.

But Santiago Ixcuintla Civil Protection director David Estrada Mariscal reached a different conclusion, saying that the appearance of dead fish on beaches was due to a recent lunar eclipse. He indicated that the eclipse caused the fish to die and to wash up on the beach, an opinion that he formed after discussions with local fishermen.

“Due to the effect of the eclipse … dead fish began to wash up on the beach,” Estrada said.

According to a report by NTV Noticias, he was unable to say exactly when the eclipse occurred. The most recent total lunar eclipse occurred in mid-May.

Estrada conceded that a red tide, or harmful algal bloom, could have caused the fish to die, but said there was no record of such a phenomenon having occurred, indicating that he was oblivious to Ortiz’s explanation.

With reports from NTV Noticias