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Guanajuato city’s bar scene has a vibe to please everyone

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downtown Guanajuato city
Guanajuato's historic downtown reflects its long history as a Spanish colonial center — making for picture perfect barhopping. Gerardo Martín Fernandez/Unsplash

Home of the Cervantino festival, the city where insurgents turned the tide of Mexican Independence and once the silver capital of the Americas, Guanajuato city has a lot of charm and a lot of history to offer visitors. But of late, it’s becoming more than just a quaint, historical day trip. With upscale boutique hotels and high-end dining and drinking, the town is attracting more and more of those moneyed tourists that their mayor clamored for back in 2018.

That said, this is still a college town at heart, and if dark and divey is your vibe, you can find plenty of possibilities for philosophy discussions and old-school rock-and-roll here as well. Here’s a list of some great new (and some classic) bars for a night out in the state’s most up-and-coming dining and drinking scene.

La Notaría

Find it here.

La Notaria bar in Guanajuato City, mexico
La Notaria creates a chic-but-mellow vibe where you can relax and enjoy their signature cocktails.

Just steps from the city’s famed Juárez Theater is the La Notaría bar, atop the La Notaría hotel. It’s a bit of climb to the third floor with no elevator, but the view is worth it as you look out over the city from the chic blue-and-gray couches in the lounge. 

Mellow dance music plays in the background while you sip on a signature cocktail like the Red Dragon — made with vodka, vermouth, and caramelized hibiscus flowers and dusted with Tajin chile powder. Or try a Mezcal Chillen with chile serrano mezcal, cucumber, lime and ginger salt. 

It’s totally Instagram-worthy here, with an ancient stone wall that serves as the bar’s balcony. However, the glass barrier around the rooftop, while probably keeping you safe, makes photos a tad complicated. Instead, just sink into one of the boxed-in seating areas and breathe in the lavender.

Antigua 13 

Find it here.

One of the best rooftop bars, Antigua 13 has a more bohemian vibe than La Notaría, while still being fancy enough to wear something slinky or bring your in-laws for brunch. 

Down a tiny alley near the famous Callejón del Beso, the spectacular rooftop view — featuring Guanajuato University, La Basilica and El Templo de la Compañia churches as a backdrop — is what draws people in. The full menu, mostly Mexican fare, includes some great fish tacos and aguachiles

In the mood for a night out with a group of friends? There is a small covered area for a private party of about 10 people, whimsically lit with golden Christmas lights. Alternatively, with lots of little corners to enjoy a cocktail, this bar’s fancy-but-friendly feel makes a perfect intimate date-night location. 

Antigua 13 rooftop bar in Guanajuato, Mexico
Antigua 13 is a place where you can either bring your in-laws or bring a date.

One Bar & Lounge

Find it here.

Also atop a hotel — the design-focused 1850 Hotel Boutique — the One bar is more dance party than easygoing hangout spot. It’s perfect for a DJ’ed night out of music and loud conversation. You can’t beat the view, which looks out over the city’s picturesque main plaza — which itself is always bustling with wandering musicians, outdoor diners and loads of tourists. 

Iridescent neon-lit tables and chairs seem to almost float around the One Bar’s terrace, and the cocktail menu is a mix of classics — like a heavy-poured old-fashioned — and house-made mixes that sound like recipes for a nasty headache in the morning (The Miami Vice – pineapple, rum, curacao, strawberry and vodka, for example). There’s also bottle service for more than 60 types of alcohol. 

There’s a small dining menu, but with surprisingly hefty options like fettuccine or grilled tuna steak.

Golem

Find it here.

For anyone who wants a bar that’s a little more dark and divey, try Golem. It looks innocuous from the street — just another collection of rooms that leads to rooms that leads to rooms, but this bar is actually atop of one of the city’s famous historic tunnels – built toward the end of the 1800s to control flooding. 

Golem Bar, Guanajuato
Keep things 100% with Golem bar’s traditional Mexican cuisine meals of the day, and a classic domestic beer. Golem/Facebook

Over the years, many of the tunnels’ bridges became houses or, in this case, a cool bar with weird mannequins in the window and patrons that wear shirts that say things like “Got Clorox?”

Feel free to sit out on the narrow balcony that overlooks the tunnel and experience the city’s history with a cheap beer or mezcal in hand. 

Pulques “El Guiso”

Find it here.

If you rather keep your feet on the ground and deeply rooted in authentic Mexican culture, right off of the city’s main plaza is a tiny pulque bar called El Guiso, where you’ll find a massive mural of the naked pulque goddess on the wall and young, hip drinkers in the half-dozen seats that fit around the bar, imbibing this fermented Mesoamerican alcoholic beverage to Mexican rock. 

One of the many great places I visited with Mexico Street Food Tours, this bar feels like a neighborhood version of the bar in the TV show “Cheers.” They have great examples of pulque from the state of Hidalgo; you can have it either natural or curado (with added fruit juice). There are few places outside of tiny rural towns where you can get pulque as fresh and delicious as this. Plus, the ambience is mellow without being dumpy. 

The Beer Company Guanajuato

Find it here.

One Bar & Lounge, Guanajuato City, Mexico
Guanajuato is one of Mexico’s oldest cities, much of it built on the region’s mountains — which means bars and restaurants with spectacular views. One Bar & Lounge/Facebook

This is a chain bar, with locations in multiple states in Mexico, but it does a good job nonetheless at providing a taste of homegrown brews. For some local craft beer, try this tall, skinny three-story bar that includes a rooftop terrace. 

Try an Allende or Dos Aves beer (made in San Miguel de Allende), or a Chelalibre (made in Celaya), or a Panorámica beer (made in Guanajuato). This is also a cozy spot to watch a sports game, with TVs mounted in all directions and a view overlooking the Plaza Allende. 

Plaza Rock Bar

Last but definitely not least, this place has a college-bar vibe with its classic rock-and-roll on the stereo and black-clad kids huddled in the corners discussing politics, an eclectic collection of wall hangings, posters, chandeliers and weird art surrounding them.

There are several rooms to tuck yourself into here, but the best seats are outside, on a quaint plaza in the middle of downtown Guanajuato, where you can watch the world go by while enjoying an oversized gin-and-tonic or a cold Modelo-brand beer. We included no address because it’s so off the radar, it doesn’t even show up on Google Maps, but you can find it at the Plaza del Baratillo across from the fountain. 

  • Know of any great bars in Guanajuato city we missed? Feel free to add to our list and share your favorites in the comments.

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.

Mexican lead soccer coach announces World Cup roster

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El Tri team members jog at a training session on Saturday.
El Tri team members jog at a training session on Saturday. Federación Mexicano de Fútbol

In anticipation of his team’s opening game in the 2022 World Cup next week, Mexico’s head coach Gerardo “Tata” Martino has revealed his 26-man roster for the global soccer extravaganza in Qatar.

“El Tri” — the team’s nickname based on Mexico’s tri-colored flag — will open the 32-team tournament on Nov. 22 against Poland. Four days later, it will play superstar Lionel Messi and Argentina before closing the group stage Nov. 30 against Saudi Arabia.

The main criticisms of Martino’s roster is that it has been built from an aging player pool without any real direction for the future. That being said, there weren’t any major surprises in the Argentine’s final 26 picks.

One of the selections who warrants attention — especially with Mexico’s offensive starpower hampered by several key injuries — is 27-year-old winger Hirving “Chucky” Lozano, who plays for Napoli in Italy’s Serie A, the fourth-ranked league in the world (Mexico’s Liga MX ranks ninth). He was born in Mexico City, raised in El Pedregal (an upper-class neighborhood in the south part of the city) and recruited by the first-division Mexican team Pachuca to begin playing for its youth teams when he was just 11.

Mexico's roster for Qatar this year.
Mexico’s roster for Qatar this year. Twitter @miseleccionmx

Lozano scored an iconic goal in the last World Cup, in 2018 in Russia, to help Mexico stun defending champion Germany 1-0, and though he has battled injuries the past couple of years, his pace and creativity make him Mexico’s most dynamic forward. 

Midfielder Edson Álvarez, nicknamed “El Machín,” is another player on the roster worth checking out. A defensive-minded player from Tlalnepantla de Baz, in the state of México just north of Mexico City, Álvarez has played four years with perennial Dutch champion Ajax and has appeared in 58 international games for Mexico, a pretty high total for someone who just turned 25 last month.

For goalkeeping, Martino has turned to experience in 37-year-old Guillermo Ochoa, 40-year-old Alfredo Talavera, and 35-year-old Rodolfo Cota, who all play for teams in Mexico’s top division, Liga MX. Though Carlos Acevedo, 26, of Santos Laguna is seen by many as the best Mexican goalkeeper in Liga MX today, and certainly a future component of the national team, he has failed to catch Martino’s eye.

Barring any unforeseen circumstances, Ochoa will be Mexico’s starting goalkeeper. A standout goalie for one of Mexico’s marquee pro teams, Club América, Ochoa’s shaggy curls and aggressive style of play make him a highly recognizable player, and his stellar performance in a 0-0 tie against the host team, Brazil, in the 2014 World Cup cemented his status as Mexico’s top choice for years to come.

Goalkeeper Guillermo Ochoa at a recent practice.
Goalkeeper Guillermo Ochoa at a recent practice. Federación Mexicano de Fútbol

Ochoa has guided El Tri to some important wins and ties in each of the last two World Cups — helping Mexico continue an uncanny streak. For seven straight World Cups, Mexico has finished either first or second in its group, thus qualifying for the round of 16. 

But each time, Mexico has lost that next game in the round of 16, also called the knockout round, leaving the team and its rabid fans yearning for an elusive fifth game. Mexico hasn’t made it to that fifth game, the quarterfinals, since 1986, and the team has never advanced beyond that in any World Cup.

As always, the pressure is on for a better result this year, but even making it out of Group C won’t be easy for Mexico, currently ranked No. 13 in the world. Messi’s Argentina squad is ranked No. 3 and Poland is No. 26, so El Tri will have its hands full.

Mexico’s schedule in Doha, Qatar will be 10 a.m. Nov. 22 against Poland, 1 p.m. Nov. 26 against Argentina and 1 p.m. Nov. 30 against 51st-ranked Saudi Arabia.

Martino, who has said he feels like public enemy No. 1, has been under fire for a lot of uninspiring performances by the national team over the past couple of years, though overall, Mexico has played decently without being spectacular. Martino even reportedly turned in his resignation in September, but it wasn’t accepted by Mexican Football Federation officials and he was convinced to stay until after the World Cup.

For the time being, the Mexican team has set up camp in Girona, Spain, before departing to Qatar next week. El Tri played a World Cup tuneup match on Nov. 9 against Iraq, rolling to an easy 4-0 victory. Another friendly tuneup, this one against Sweden, is set for Wednesday, Nov. 16 at Estadi Montilivi in Girona, which is in Catalonia, Spain.

Porteros (goalkeepers):

  • Guillermo Ochoa, 37 (América, Liga MX)
  • Alfredo Talavera, 40 (Juárez, Liga MX)
  • Rodolfo Cota, 35 (León, Liga MX)

Defensas (defenders):

  • Jorge Sánchez, 24 (Ajax, Netherlands)
  • Néstor Araujo, 31 (América, Liga MX)
  • Gerardo Arteaga, 24 (Genk, Belgium)
  • Kevin Álvarez, 23 (Pachuca, Liga MX)
  • Jesús Gallardo, 28 (Monterrey, Liga MX)
  • Héctor Moreno, 34 (Monterrey, Liga MX)
  • César Montes, 25 (Monterrey, Liga MX)
  • Johan Vasquez, 23 (Cremonese, Italy)

Mediocampistas (midfielders):

  • Edson Álvarez, 24 (Ajax, Netherlands)
  • Orbelín Pineda, 26 (AEK, Greece)
  • Héctor Herrera, 37 (Houston Dynamo, U.S.)
  • Carlos Rodriguez, 25 (Cruz Azul, Liga MX)
  • Erick Gutiérrez, 27, (PSV Eindhoven, Netherlands)
  • Luis Chávez, 26 (Pachuca, Liga MX)
  • Luis Romo, 27 (Monterrey, Liga MX)
  • Andrés Guardado, 36 (Real Betis, Spain)

Delanteros (forwards):

  • Roberto Alvarado, 24 (Chivas, Liga MX)
  • Uriel Antuna, 25 (Cruz Azul, Liga MX)
  • Alexis Vega, 24 (Chivas, Liga MX)
  • Henry Martin, 29 (América, Liga MX)
  • Hirving Lozano, 27 (Napoli, Italy)
  • Rogelio Funes Mori, 31 (Monterrey, Liga MX)
  • Raúl Jiménez, 31 (Wolverhampton, England)

With reports from El Economista, the Sporting News and Sports Illustrated

Illegal wildlife trafficking in Mexico is ‘out of control,’ nonprofit finds

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After these young monkeys (a spider monkey and a howler monkey) were confiscated from traffickers, the Culiacán Zoo in Sinaloa became their home.
After these young monkeys (a spider monkey and a howler monkey) were confiscated from traffickers, the Culiacán Zoo in Sinaloa became their home. Zoológico de Culiacán

Illegal wildlife trafficking is rampant in Mexico, according to a study carried out by the Center for Biological Diversity (CBD). The CBD filed a complaint on Wednesday with Mexican state prosecutors, alleging that authorities are largely turning a blind eye to the practice. 

“Wildlife trafficking in Mexico is out of control,” the report stated. 

Researchers launched an undercover investigation between May and August, visiting markets, scouring digital platforms and interviewing experts.

Several species protected by law, including jaguars, howler monkeys, toucans, parakeets, iguanas, African lions, and Bengal tigers, are openly bought and sold, mainly through social networks such as Facebook and TikTok. While the sale of exotic plants and animals is illegal on these platforms, fake profiles make it difficult to enforce.

This young tiger was rescued by Profepa earlier this year after it was seen peeking out the window of a house in México state.
This young tiger was rescued by Profepa earlier this year after it was seen peeking out the window of a house in México state. Profepa

Existing legislation in Mexico also makes the problem challenging to address, as the relevant authorities are often complicit in the crime. The study found that the country’s Management Units for the Conservation of Wildlife (UMAs) and Farms that Manage Wildlife (PIMVS) actively participate in the illegal trade alongside organized crime groups. The market is estimated to be worth US$100 billion per year. 

“It is really very easy to buy a toucan, a howler monkey or a sloth illegally in our country,” said Alejandro Olivera, the Mexico representative for the CBD. 

The Federal Attorney for Environmental Protection (Profepa) cannot determine the whereabouts of most wildlife that is trafficked, with an estimated 97% of cases going unsolved. This amounts to between about 123,000 and 290,000 animals or plants.  

The illegal trafficking of exotic wildlife is negatively affecting Mexico’s highly diverse ecosystem as the population of in-demand species rapidly declines. While most of the animals are sold as pets, species such as sea cucumbers and totoabas are sold for consumption as food or medicine.

An endangered peyote cactus recently advertised for sale on Facebook.
An endangered peyote cactus recently advertised for sale on Facebook. Facebook Marketplace

“As more and more animals are uprooted from their natural habitat, it becomes more difficult to bring back species in sharp decline,” Olivera said. 

Prior to 2019, there was an office within Profepa specifically dedicated to curbing wildlife trafficking. However, it was eliminated due to the Lopez Obrador administration’s austerity measures. Environmental authorities have also experienced budget cuts, impacting its ability to carry out the necessary enforcement. 

“Budget cuts to the environmental agency responsible for verifying, monitoring and inspecting the sale of wildlife in Mexico have allowed the problem to continue,” the report said.

Once introduced to the illegal trade, the death rate of the animals is extremely high. About 77% die before being sold to the final consumer, according to the report. 

The CBD made a series of recommendations to combat the illegal wildlife trade, including increased government oversight, more resources to the relevant authorities, and collaborative agreements between the Mexican government and the online platforms where the crime is carried out. 

With reports from Excelsior and Reuters

Exports from China to Mexico increased by 28% so far this year

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Shipping cargo
China alone exported US $700 billion to North America in 2021. Rinson Chory/Unsplash

According to figures from the Bank of Mexico, China’s exports to Mexico were worth US $79.48 billion between January and August 2022 – a 28% increase compared to the same period in 2021.

Bi Nu Pillai, operations manager of the Chinese company Me Orient, said that the growth of bilateral trade is a sign that Mexico is a priority for China.

After a drop of 9.54% during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, Chinese exports in 2021 surpassed US $100 billion. At the time, Nikkei Asia reported that this record high represented a 50% growth from the previous five years.

According to the Ministry of Economy, China has become Mexico’s second-largest import partner after the U.S., with investment from 1,289 Chinese companies. China has also become Mexico’s largest trading partner in the Asia-Pacific region and its third largest export market.

China Homelife Fair in Mexico City 2022
The recent China Homelife Fair in Mexico City’s goal was to connect businesses in China with ones in Mexico. China Homelife

China’s share in Mexico’s total imports has risen over the last decade from 14.9% in 2011 to 19.9% ​​in 2021. It was 20.5% in the first four months of 2022.

Among the main exports of 2021, medical materials and intermediate goods — the latter being products used to produce a finished product — were at the top of the list.

“Currently, 75% of exports to Mexico are incorporated into a Mexican production line and from there, the finished products are in turn exported by Mexico to its trading partners,” Carolina Núñez, director of the Mexico-China Chamber of Commerce and Technology, said.

Sales from Mexico to China have also grown an average of 7 percent in recent years, with an expectation to keep growing, said Susana Muñoz, president of the Mexican Chamber of Commerce in Hong Kong.

The Mexican embassy in China has reported that despite the restrictions due to the pandemic, the first shipment of Mexican plantains arrived in China in 2020 and the signing of a protocol for exporting Mexican sorghum was finalized.

Copper, auto parts and vehicles were the most exported products to China in 2021, although Mexican pork also registered a growth on sales.

Finally, Bi Nu Pillai also said that the success in trade between China and Mexico is due to activities that promote links between businesspeople in the two countries. For example, the recent China Homelife México Fair in Mexico City, which took place earlier this month, is an annual event that seeks to generate connections between members of China and Mexico’s business communities.

Although attendance numbers for the event were not available at press time, event organizers expected about 20,000 business meetings between the fair’s 680 exhibitors and 15,000 projected attendees.

With reports from EFE Noticias and Embamex.

With US help, Mexico aims to double clean energy production by 2030

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A solar farm on a mostly clear day.
To meet the targets, Mexico will have to quickly ramp up production of wind, solar and other types of renewable energy. American Public Power Assoc. via Unsplash

Mexico will collaborate with the United States to double its capacity to produce renewable energy, Foreign Affairs Minister Marcelo Ebrard said Saturday at the United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP27) in Egypt.

He also announced that Mexico will aim to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 35% by 2030, a target five percentage points higher than expected.

Ebrard made the announcements at a COP27 press conference at which he appeared alongside the United States special presidential envoy for climate, John Kerry.

“President López Obrador has decided to increase the national greenhouse gases emissions reduction target from 22% to 35% in order to accelerate the energy transition in North America,” he said.

“That means doubling efforts in the next eight years compared with the original plans for this decade,” the foreign minister said.

Mexico intends to ramp up production of a range of clean energies including wind, solar, geothermal and hydroelectric.

Ebrard said that an additional US $48 billion in investment in the renewable sector will be needed to double Mexico’s capacity to generate clean energy by the end of the decade. He said that the public and private sectors in both Mexico and the United States will invest in renewables, but didn’t specify how much money would come from each country.

The United States Embassy in Mexico said in a statement Monday that “Secretary Kerry indicated his support for Mexico’s new renewable goal, and the United States intends to work closely with Mexico to achieve these ambitious goals, including through U.S. efforts to mobilize financial support and joint efforts to catalyze and incentivize investments into new Mexican renewable energy deployment and transmission.”

Foreign Minister Ebrard announces the clean energy agreement at a COP27 press conference on Sunday, alongside U.S. special climate envoy John Kerry.
Foreign Minister Ebrard announces the clean energy agreement at a COP27 press conference on Sunday, alongside U.S. special climate envoy John Kerry. Twitter @m_ebrard

López Obrador said earlier this year that 17 U.S. energy companies had committed to invest in solar and wind projects in Mexico.

Kerry said Saturday that Mexico and the United States have a shared “vision” for a clean energy future in North America. Sonora is set to play a key role in the bilateral plan, with a massive solar farm among the renewable projects slated to commence operations in the northern state in coming years.

Ebrard said last week that Mexico needs to increase renewable energy production “at a rate even faster than the United States” to ensure it can comply with any clean energy requirements the U.S. imposes on exports to that country.

In a separate announcement on Saturday, Pemex said it would collaborate with the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions, especially methane.  The state oil company said in a statement that the EPA would provide technical support for the development and implementation of a plan to help reduce its emissions.

“Through the agreement, the EPA will support [Pemex] with economic diagnoses and analyses to support decision-making in its onshore oil and natural gas operations,” it said. The emissions reduction plan is slated to be developed and implemented in the first half of next year.

A team of European scientists published a study earlier this year that concluded that Pemex released some 40,000 tonnes of methane into the atmosphere from a Gulf of Mexico oil and gas platform during a 17-day ultra-emission event last December. The state oil company rejected the study, but the scientists retorted that they definitely didn’t mistake nitrogen for methane, as Pemex claimed.

Methane, the main constituent of natural gas, is much more harmful to the environment than carbon dioxide and is considered a major contributor to global warming.

With reports from El Economista and Reuters 

Protests against electoral reform held in 50 cities on Sunday

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Citizens marched in protest against the proposed electoral reforms in Mexico City and dozens of other cities around the country.
Citizens marched in protest against the proposed electoral reforms in Mexico City and dozens of other cities around the country. Moisés Pablo Nava / Cuartoscuro.com

Mexicans took to the streets in some 50 cities Sunday to protest against the federal government’s proposed electoral reform, legislation that would replace the National Electoral Institute (INE) and state-based electoral authorities with one centralized body.

Approximately 500,000 people including leaders of opposition parties participated in demonstrations in 15 federal entities, according to an El Economista newspaper report that cited statistics provided by protest organizers and media outlets.

However, the number of people who protested the proposed reform in Mexico City — where the nation’s largest march was held — is hotly contested.

Martí Batres, a high-ranking official in the Mexico City government, tweeted from the capital’s security camera monitoring center that between 10,000 and 12,000 people took to the streets, while former president Felipe Calderón cited a vastly different “conservative” estimate of 500,000.

The crowd, many wearing the pink and white colors of the INE logo, filled Mexico City's Paseo de la Reforma on Sunday.
The crowd, many wearing the pink and white colors of the INE logo, filled Mexico City’s Reforma Avenue on Sunday. Twitter @JTrianaT

Citing figures given by civil society organizations that organized the march, El Economista reported that between 150,000 and 200,000 people marched from the Angel of Independence on Reforma Avenue to the Monument to the Revolution, located just outside Mexico City’s historic center.

Among the other cities where protests were held were Monterrey, Guadalajara, Morelia, Querétaro, Culiacán and Cancún.

Via signs they carried and slogans they chanted, protesters declared that the INE — known as the Federal Electoral Institute (IFE) prior to 2014 — mustn’t be “touched.”

They also asserted that the proposed reform — currently under consideration by the Chamber of Deputies — won’t pass Congress.

That outcome appears likely as no opposition party supports the proposal and the ruling Morena party and its allies don’t have the two-thirds majority required to pass constitutional bills.

The reform bill proposes replacing the INE with a centralized authority to be called the National Elections and Consultations Institute. The new authority’s electoral councilors, as well as electoral tribunal judges, would be directly elected by citizens if the bill passes Congress.

Exactly half of the respondents to a recent Reforma newspaper poll said that President López Obrador and his Morena party want to dismantle the INE in order to “appropriate the new institute to control elections.”

The IFE oversaw Mexico’s transition to full democracy after the once-omnipotent Institutional Revolutionary Party dominated politics in the 20th century, a period in which the party’s success at elections was virtually guaranteed due to its own control of the electoral system.

The INE itself jumped into the online commentary on the protests, re-sharing this and other statements from its supporters on Twitter.

The reform bill proposes a range of other measures, including cutting the funding of political parties and electoral authorities, and reducing the number of lawmakers in both houses of Congress.

At a rally at the conclusion of Sunday’s march in Mexico City, former IFE president José Woldenberg declared that protesters were demonstrating their “profound commitment” to democracy and defending “an electoral system that protects all of us and allows the co-existence of diversity, and the replacement of governments via pacific and participative means.”

“Mexico doesn’t deserve a constitutional electoral reform driven by a single will,” he charged, referring to López Obrador.

“… Mexico … mustn’t transfer the electoral register to another institution because the INE has excelled in the formulation of a reliable list,” Woldenberg said.

The former electoral official also said that upcoming elections “must have the same guarantees” as the most recent ones: a trustworthy register, a level playing field for candidates, impartiality of the officials organizing them, meticulous counting of votes and the announcement of preliminary results on the night voters went to the polls.

He questioned whether a centralized electoral institute would have the capacity to organize elections to elect officials for the different levels of governments, saying that state-based electoral authorities registered over 275,000 candidates in 2021 alone.

“With such numbers I ask you: Is it desirable and possible to concentrate, centralize and administer that political universe in a single institution?” Woldenberg asked, prompting a resounding “no” from his fellow protesters.

In a video message posted to social media after Sunday’s protests, INE president Lorenzo Córdova noted that hundreds of thousands of people came out to defend “our democracy and our electoral system in the face of the risk of an anti-democratic regression.”

INE Director Lorenzo Córdova said the protests were a defense of democracy against the threat of democratic backsliding.
INE Director Lorenzo Córdova said the protests were a defense of democracy against the threat of democratic backsliding. Twitter @lorenzocordovav

“… The democracy and electoral system we have today are a collective work and asset of all citizens,” he said. “… Mexican democracy wasn’t built in a day nor is it the work of just one man, one party or one political force. It’s the product of multiple civil struggles against a hegemonic party regime, struggles against electoral fraud that characterized the anti-democratic past.”

The INE chief added that that “we can’t allow” the electoral authority to lose its constitutional autonomy “if we don’t want to return to the authoritarian past that we fortunately left behind.”

Córdova also said that, “at INE we watch on with enthusiasm and satisfaction … [as] citizens value and defend … [Mexico’s] democracy.”

More than half a million people have also signed a Change.org petition that denounces the proposed disbandment of the INE.

López Obrador, the key proponent of the electoral reform bill, declared Monday that those who participated in Sunday’s protests are opposed to the transformation his government is carrying out in Mexico. They protested “in favor of the privileges they had before the government I represent [took office], in favor of corruption, in favor of racism, classism and discrimination,” he said.

The president asserted that “not a lot” of people participated in the Mexico City march, claiming that the protesters didn’t go to the zócalo as they “wouldn’t have filled even half” of the capital’s central square.

He described the protest as a “political [and] public striptease of conservatism in Mexico,” adding that “this is very good because if this doesn’t surface it remains hidden and does a lot of damage [to efforts] to have a better, fairer, more equal, more fraternal society.”

Former president Vicente Fox, who joined the Mexico City protest, highlighted on his Twitter account that López Obrador pledged in 2020 that he would quit if 100,000 people protested against him. AMLO said at the time another prerequisite to him leaving office early was opinion polls showing that he has lost support. However, polls have consistently shown that he retains the support of a majority of citizens.

With reports from El Economista, Reforma, El Financiero, Sin Embargo and Proceso 

Air quality alert continues for Mexico City metro area

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On Monday, the capital was visibly smoggy with light traffic due to the driving restrictions.
On Monday, the capital was visibly smoggy with light traffic due to the driving restrictions. Webcams de México

Following the phase 1 environmental alert issued over the weekend, Mexico City residents began the week on Monday with limitations on traffic and outdoor activities due to the high levels of ozone in the air.

In a Sunday evening press release, the Environmental Commission of the Megalopolis (CAMe) announced that at 5 p.m. on Sunday, the monitoring station in the borough of Miguel Hidalgo registered an ozone value of 134 parts per billion (ppb).

These conditions have led the CAMe to categorize the air in Mexico City and the metropolitan area as “bad to very bad,” representing a health risk ranging from “high to very high.”

Authorities expect that the high-pressure conditions will continue for much of the day with high temperatures, persistent solar radiation and very light winds.

It is also expected for these conditions to last until Tuesday.

The elevated “Hoy No Circula” (“no-drive days”) restrictions will remain in place until the alert is lifted. Cars with verification hologram type 1 and license plates ending in 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, and 9 are banned from circulation between 5 a.m. and 10 p.m. Also, cars with hologram type 2 are restricted, as well as those with hologram type 0 and 00, yellow tag and plate numbers ending in 5 and 6 (for full details, click here).

Although not restricted, outdoor activities are discouraged especially between 1 p.m. and 7 p.m., when ozone levels are more likely to be elevated. Authorities have also suggested avoiding the use of air fresheners, aerosols, paints, waterproofing and products that contain solvents.

Although Mexico City is used to alerts during pollution peaks, alerts in the fall are uncommon — they’re usually issued in the spring before the rainy season.

If a phase 2 alert is issued, in addition to the restrictions listed above, schools will be closed and all outdoor events and activities will be canceled. 

With reports from El Financiero, El País and Comisión Ambiental de la Megalópolis

(Almost) instantly delicious

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Instant Pot
An Instant Pot’s mission is to make your life easier—and get your cooking done faster.

It took me awhile to accept the value of an Instant Pot; I couldn’t see why I needed one. My slow cooker worked just fine, and I was OK with using pots and pans for other things. But about a year ago, I was gifted one. Suddenly, I had a beautiful, fancy new appliance to figure out and assimilate into my cooking regime.

An Instant Pot is basically a fancy pressure cooker, with specialized preset modes (specific pressure levels and times) for cooking different items. It also works as a slow cooker/crockpot and as a yogurt maker. And it can work like an electric pot, with the lid open, to sear or steam.

The presets make it super-simple to create a complex meal quickly and easily; once you figure it out, an Instant Pot is kind of a one-stop cooking device. Things like beans — which can take hours to cook — are done in 20 minutes or so; meats like brisket, pork roast and even ribs can cook long and slow with no fear of burning or drying out; and stews of all kinds come out with smooth, creamy textures simply by being cooked at high pressure.

Like many other people, I found that yogurt was the first, easiest thing I made in my “IP.” Overnight, I had a couple of quarts of gorgeous yogurt that required no more effort than mixing milk with a bit of yogurt as a starter.

Chicken burrito bowls
Chicken burrito bowls are a quick ‘n easy crowd pleaser!

Then, I will admit, the IP sat on my counter, and then its designated shelf, for weeks before I forced myself to use it for something else, something complicated I usually made on the stovetop with multiple pots. Not only was that Thai Peanut Ramen almost effortless, the broth had a silky texture I’d never been able to make before. (IP directions below.)

Since then, I’ve expanded my repertoire considerably: pork roast, applesauce, all kinds of stews, macaroni and cheese, chicken breasts, brown rice in minutes. (As I write this, chicken stock is bubbling away in my Instant Pot. I’ll end up with two quarts or more of flavorful, delicious stock tucked away in the freezer for future use.) I haven’t made any desserts in it yet, but they’re on the agenda.

I’ll be the first to say that it takes a while to get used to using an Instant Pot, but once you do, they’re great! There are oodles of sites online with all sorts of Instant Pot recipes; I’ve included a few of my favorites here:

Chicken Burrito Bowls

  • 1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in 1-inch chunks
  • 1 (1.25-oz.) package taco seasoning or equivalent spices
  • 1½ cups chicken or veggie broth
  • 1 (15-oz.) can corn kernels, drained, or equivalent frozen
  • 1 (15-oz.) can black beans, drained and rinsed, or equivalent fresh-cooked
  • 1 cup salsa, homemade or store-bought
  • 1 (4.5-oz.) can chopped green jalapeños
  • 1 cup uncooked rice
  • 2 cups shredded Chihuahua cheese
  • Garnish: 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Mix chicken, taco seasoning and broth in a 6 qt. Instant Pot. Stir in corn, beans, salsa and green chiles. Spread rice on top; press down gently to moisten. Select manual setting and adjust pressure to high. Set time for 10 minutes.

When finished cooking, quick-release pressure. Stir in cheese until melted. Serve immediately, garnished with cilantro.

Lasagna

Note: You’ll need a springform pan that fits inside your Instant Pot.

  • 8 oven-ready lasagna noodles
  • 2 cups shredded mozzarella or Chihuahua cheese
  • ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 3 cups marinara/meat sauce
  • Salt and pepper
  • ¾ cup ricotta cheese
  • 1 tsp. Italian seasoning
  • 1 large egg
  • Pinch salt

In a bowl, beat an egg, then add ¾ cup ricotta. Season with Italian seasoning, salt and pepper; set aside. Line a 7-inch springform pan with parchment paper.

lasagna ingredients
Instant Pot lasagna? Why not?!

Break uncooked lasagna noodles into smaller pieces; place at bottom of pan in a single layer. Make 3 layers of sauce, ricotta mixture, noodles and shredded cheese, finishing with Parmesan on top. Wrap springform pan tightly with aluminum foil.

Pour 1 cup cold water in Instant Pot; place a trivet in bottom of pot. Use foil to create a sling for the springform pan, then place it gently on top of trivet. Close lid; pressure cook on high setting for 24 minutes + 10 minutes natural release. Check that noodles are cooked enough; if necessary, cook for 5 minutes more.

Remove from Instant Pot. Let sit 5 minutes in pan, then remove and serve.

Thai Peanut Ramen

(Click on the link to find ingredients list.)

Combine chicken broth, coconut milk, soy sauce, fish sauce, honey, peanut butter and curry paste in Instant Pot. Add chicken, mushrooms, red peppers, ginger and garlic. (If using shrimp, do not add them now.) Cover and cook on high pressure for 10 minutes. Once done cooking, release the steam vent.

Shred chicken; stir in the noodles, if using, lime juice, spinach and cilantro. Add shrimp, if using. Let sit 5 minutes or until noodles are soft and shrimp are cooked.

If necessary, pressure-cook for 3–4 minutes to cook shrimp. Ladle soup into bowls, top with peanuts and toasted sesame oil.

BBQ Pulled Pork

  • 1 Tbsp. garlic powder
  • 1 Tbsp. onion powder
  • 2 tsp. smoked paprika
  • 2 tsp. salt or to taste
  • 1 tsp. black pepper
  • 3-4 pounds boneless pork shoulder, fat trimmed, cut into 4 large chunks
  • 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
  • 1 yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 can dark soda (Cola, Dr. Pepper, root beer)
  • ½-1½ cups barbecue sauce
  • Hot sauce

Mix garlic and onion powders, paprika, salt and pepper in large bowl. Add pork; turn to coat. In Instant Pot, pour oil; turn to sauté setting Add pork and brown. Add onion and soda; stir and scrape up browned bits from bottom of pot.

Close lid, cook on high pressure setting for one hour. Turn off; release pressure.

Remove pork and onion bits to large bowl. Using two forks, shred meat. Add ½ cup barbecue sauce and a few spoons cooking liquid to moisten. (Discard remaining cooking liquid.) Add salt, pepper, hot sauce and more barbecue sauce as desired.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Parras, Coahuila: a desert oasis known for its wineries

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downtown Parras, Coahuila
Parras is a Pueblo Mágico, designated as such for its history, its colonial-era construction, and its hot springs. It can be some work to travel between the downtown and the wineries its famous for on the outskirts. Sectur

Parras de la Fuente, Coahuila, is a literal and economic oasis wedged in the seemingly endless Chihuahuan Desert.

It is a green spot with trees defining the exact extent of where the underground water table rises, as underground flows are blocked by the mountain ranges that separate Coahuila from Zacatecas. The difference in vegetation is striking, especially when seen from the rock outcropping of San Madero Church.

The only settlement of any size between Coahuila’s cities of Torreón and Saltillo, Highway 40 is its lifeline to civilization.

Despite its geographical isolation, Parras has been an important historical and economic center regionally and nationally. With 400 years of European occupation, agriculture and ecology, it was the first northern community to be named a Pueblo Mágico in 2004.

vineyard in Parras, Coahuila
Parras is known first and foremost for its wineries, which are growing in number. Sectur

The vast majority of people who visit do so for one reason — wine. It has played an important role in the area’s history and remains extremely important today. The oasis got Spanish attention early in the colonial period. They had taken control by control by 1578, with the name referring to the wild grapes growing here.

There are a number of internationally-recognized establishments here, but Casa Madero still dominates local winemaking. Founded in 1597 as Hacienda San Lorenzo, it is considered to be the oldest winery in the Americas.

Today, Casa Madero is still extremely important and still enjoys great prestige despite the rise of winemaking in Baja California and other areas of Mexico. Casa Madero is often called upon by new wineries for advice and approval.

Parras’s designation as a Pueblo Mágico was not predicated solely on wine, however. The official reasons for the recognition include its history — it was the birthplace of revolutionary icon and former Mexican president Francisco I. Madero.

Its natural springs, its colonial-era construction in the historic center, its festivals dedicated to the town’s foundation, a cross credited with miracles and local crops such as pecans, figs and pine nuts were also reasons for the designation. It’s also known for cajeta (dulce de leche).

Most Parras wineries are nowhere near as old as Casa Madero, but in the last couple of decades, newer arrivals, such as Rivero González and Don Leo, have been extending Parras’s reputation internationally, introducing new grape varieties and even Mexico’s first kosher wine. There is even one winery, Hacienda de Perote, that makes the cousin to tequila and mezcal, sotol, in addition to wine.

Admittedly, there is something a bit odd about naming Parras as a Pueblo Mágico. There are only two main areas for tourists to go: the wineries on the outskirts and the historic center. Understandably, the vineyards are located outside the town proper, but their wines do not seem to have an obvious presence downtown. I saw only one or two shops offering local vintages, and far fewer fine restaurants than I would have expected.

One reason for this is that the wineries themselves offer tours, upscale restaurants, lodging, invited chefs and opera singers and more. Everything you need for a perfect wine weekend is at one or more of these establishments.

Casa Madero winery, Parras, Coahuila
Casa Madero is a well-respected Mexican winery known for being one of the oldest in Latin America. Mexican Commission of Filmmaking

The municipal government has been trying of late to attract tourists interested in more than just wine: in March, the local government created a new tourism arm to promote different activities in and around the city, although many of them are, again, outdoor activities not in the historic center.

The large historic center with many mansions indicates that Parras has been a city for quite some time, but it also has a ring of cinder block buildings indicating rapid, recent expansion. This clashes with the reputation of Pueblos Mágicos as small communities for people to go to appreciate traditional Mexico. And in order to appreciate both the wine and Parras’ historic center, you will have to ignore the modern, sometimes poor, areas between the two.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

I love my life in Mexico, but I know my family back home pays a price for it

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US father and daughter
The writer and her father share a quiet moment while packing up her childhood home. When you're an expat, being there for family milestones isn't always possible.

Guess what, y’all? I’m in Texas again!

Unlike my last trip here, this is not a vacation in any way. My dad is downsizing to a smaller place after having sold the house he’s lived in for 40 years — the house I grew up in — and I’m here to help him do that.

We’ve had a lot of long, exhausting days as we sort through 40 years’ worth of possessions, deciding what to get rid of and what to make very purposeful space for. We don’t have a lot of time, so plenty of things that we could probably sell for a good profit will be donated instead.

We’ve also done some bickering, as families do:

I think the shower chair, which belonged to his deceased second wife, is worth taking to the new place; he doesn’t want to because the chair itself is loaded with meaning, signifying that he’s officially “old” (he’s 68).

I’m a notorious backseat driver — I just can’t help it; if I were superstitious, I’d say I’ve died in car accidents in at least five past lives. My dad drives an average of 25 miles per hour, usually in the fast lane, as cars swerve angrily around us on the right. I close my eyes and try to avoid gasps, reminding myself that he’s survived as a driver for this long.

He wants to keep every piece of writing his own father ever wrote; I argue that there’s little point since they’ll just remain in storage boxes for another 20 years. There’s little time for it during this trip, but maybe in the future, we’ll sit down and make digital copies of it all before tossing, framing a few nice examples.

But I’m here. He needs me. The rest of my family needs me, too, to lighten their load.

The topic of caring for one’s parents from afar as they age is a fraught one for immigrants all over the world, and I’m no exception. I suspect that we all feel a measured amount of guilt about this.

So many questions come up: would our parents’ lives be better if we were closer to them physically? Would my sister’s life — who’s had to be there in big ways and small for all three of our parents at different points — be better? (Answer: certainly.) And if I lived in the United States, would I even be able to both support myself and have the time to care for them? (Answer: uncertain.)

For a time after my daughter was born, I wanted to move back to Texas so that I could help take care of my increasingly sick mother, sure that I could improve her quality of life, if not extend it. But I couldn’t get my now ex-husband on board with the idea in time. In the couple of years after my mother died, I gave up both on going back and on my marriage, deciding I’d stay in Mexico forever and just try my best to earn enough money for frequent trips back home.

For me personally, life is easier in Mexico. I’m happy, and I live a good life. I don’t want to leave, and probably never will. But the tradeoff is that my family’s life is very likely slightly harder because of my absence.

So, here I am, doing the same thing for my dad that I did six years ago for my mom and stepdad: organizing, packing up, getting a new place ready — complete with labels, calendars, safety features and organizational systems that would make Martha Stewart proud. My contributions are in short but very intense bursts.

I’ve tried my best to create small, comfortable palaces for them, with their every need anticipated and dealt with in advance, with their every worry already imagined and solved before they can even have the thought. I wanted, and still want, to make their lives easier.

But my mother didn’t care about labels and handrails in the bathroom as much as she cared about me. And “me” is what she couldn’t keep with her. I lived elsewhere.

Thankfully, she had my sister and my other dad, Richard, who weathered the most difficult parts of her care in my absence. My contributions, while appreciated and needed, could only solve so much: the handrails and furniture placed “just so” couldn’t prevent her sudden fainting spells that resulted in concussions, worsening her dementia a little more each time.

The labeled bathroom and kitchen cabinets couldn’t stop her from having terrifying hallucinations. And the bright sunshine pouring through the windows through soft, translucent curtains were no match for her sense of longing to spend time with her granddaughter, who was born in and lived in Mexico.

During Hurricane Harvey, it wasn’t me who stayed sheltered with them during days on end of flooding outside and no water or electricity inside. I’ve escaped the most hellish, difficult parts of parental care simply by being in Mexico, unavailable by default.

As I’ve complained to friends about the difficulty of the work I’m doing, some have asked incredulously, “…and nobody is helping you? Your sister’s not there?”

She’s not at the moment, but I’m the truly “not there” sister.

And for everything my sister has had to deal with in my 20 years of absence, I’d spend months walking on my knees through gravel for her: not simply out of penance but also because she is constantly going it alone. So, single-handedly getting my parents packed up and moved to a new place feels like quite literally the least I could do next to what would actually be fair — moving back to Texas to help with the increasing amount of day-to-day work there is to be done as the years go by. But although I’ll continue to come to the States as often as I possibly can, I will not be moving back.

What does family mean when physically you’re only a fleeting part of your own tribe? What are our responsibilities to the people who raised us? I know that this is generally a human question, not just an immigrant one, but living so far away raises the stakes of the conversation: the conclusions are real, not imaginary.

All I can do for now is argue over a shower chair and lay down some good, sturdy bathmats. My dad might wish for me to sit at his table every week; he might feel lonely sometimes; he might mourn his old house.

But I’ll tell you what he won’t do: slip on the tiles in the bathroom.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com