Tuesday, July 22, 2025

The holiday gift we need right now: some optimism about Mexico

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COVID vaccinations
The nation's largely successful free mass vaccination drive is one reminder that inefficiency and corruption don't always win the day here. File photo

I’m writing my piece for this week on the shortest and darkest day of the year: the winter solstice.

I actually have a completely different nearly finished article that I was planning on turning in for publication this Saturday, which will be Christmas Day. But honestly, it’s bleak, bleak, bleak, and I just can’t have that be my Christmas present to you.

I also happen to have returned from a really fun day and am simply more in the mood to spread goodwill and cheer than gloom and doom. It will be there waiting for us next week, so what’s the rush? Let’s talk about the holidays instead! (In case you missed it, I recently wrote an article spelling out some of the Mexican Christmas traditions, which you can read here).

Today, I went with my partner and my daughter to Coatepec, a small municipality outside Xalapa, Veracruz, that is rapidly becoming a small city. The area between Xalapa and Coatepec will likely fill up over the next 20 years or so, but for now, they’re distinctly different places.

The zócalo is beautifully decorated and filled with lights. Today, there was a stage with dancers performing son jarocho folkloric dances and a Christmas bazaar lined up along the streets with local vendors selling their mostly handmade wares.

It was cold and rainy all afternoon, but that didn’t dampen my mood one bit. As is fitting for the solstice, soft, bright lights lit up and cheered up the gloom around us, making the evening magical rather than dreary.

The highlight of our afternoon, however, and the main reason we went to Coatepec today, was to go ice-skating! The municipality apparently decided that what coatepecanos really needed for a little holiday cheer this year was a free ice-skating rink, and I personally agree that it was a wonderful idea.

It’s been a rough year for all of us. And, besides, how often do we grown-ups get to do stuff for the sole purpose of having fun? Even most “fun” things I do these days also serve some other function. It’s nice to feel like a kid again once in a while.

Though I spent most of my childhood at the roller-skating rink, I was fully prepared to walk off that ice-skating rink with one or several bruises from falling down. Ice-skating is not the same as roller-skating, and I didn’t climb onto the ice expecting to know what I was doing.

Thankfully, my muscle memory kicked in, and I managed to skate around like a nervous chimpanzee mostly not holding onto the edge for dear life — but not a falling nervous chimpanzee, something I’m very proud of.

My kid and my partner also managed to survive the whole thing without incident, and I’m hoping that the local government will keep putting up this skating rink so that it can become a new Christmas week tradition for us.

For those skaters not lucky enough to avoid falls, safety measures were in place: there was a group of well-trained skaters with bright-orange vests responsible for helping anyone that fell and for getting them to safety.

In the group before us — each group got 30 minutes on the rink — a boy fell back on his bottom and started crying. While two of the workers made sure he was OK and helped him up and off the ice, a group of four others held hands and surrounded him to make sure that no one else would trip over him while he was down.

Most of these workers were themselves expert ice skaters. How they are expert ice skaters is a mystery to me.

Maybe they’re professional rollerbladers and just needed a little practice on the ice to get good? Maybe they grew up in Canada? Maybe they had some kind of crash course in ice-skating and got really good really fast?

Their training had obviously been impeccable, as they were also in charge of cleaning and preparing the ice between each session. I’d have believed that any of them had grown up skating and caring for rinks.

Whatever it was, the whole operation was run with the utmost efficiency, order and professionalism. These are characteristics that marked the process (for me, anyway) of vaccine distribution as well, and my faith in gigantic free government operations in Mexico for large swaths of people at once is now growing at a steady clip as a result.

In fact, I’d say it’s even more impressive than the fact that I was able to ice-skate — for free! We sure can’t do that in Texas.

A while ago, I wrote an article basically complaining about the lack of free entertainment during the pandemic, with public parks and events canceled but paid entertainment (for kids as well) still available. Well, credit where credit is due: at least in this particular town, there’s a lot of affordable fun to be had.

So that’s been my winter solstice this year. I started the day off feeling gloomy about what I was writing and despairing about all the ways Mexico, a country I love so deeply, seems to simply not be making it in so many ways: poverty increasing, narcos forever expanding their powers, impunity reigning.

But like twinkling Christmas lights shining through the cold rain, beauty and grace have broken through: glimmers of light and warmth during the coldest, darkest day.

Merry Christmas, everyone.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.

‘Tis the season to gather with friends, family — and good food!

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crunchy spiced chickpeas
Spiced chickpeas have a satisfying crunch and they fit easily in one hand, making them a perfect party appetizer.

It’s only in the last few years I’ve begun to really appreciate appetizers as more than just filler before the main meal. They have an identity and a purpose all their own that can be just as important — and impressive — as what’s coming next.

Appetizers are also an integral part of the successful Happy Hour, no matter what you’re drinking. They can be a delightful conversation starter and serve to brighten and lighten the atmosphere as guests arrive, are introduced and settle in.

They deserve to be more than store-bought snacks out of a bag or package, yet not so complicated that you can’t (or won’t) deal with making them. And like traditional dinners for special occasions, certain “appies” are classic favorites too.

The best appetizers are deliciously memorable, either because they’re so different or unusual or because they’re something classic done perfectly (or updated just as perfectly). The Creamy Onion Dip below is a good example; we all know and love it, but when the onions are oh-so-slowly caramelized, and Greek yogurt is added for a bit of tang, this traditional dip becomes even better.

If you’re bringing something to a gathering, make it easy to eat (not too messy!) and just as easy to transport and serve. If your appetizer needs something specific to serve or eat it properly, bring that along too. (Case in point: toothpicks.)

Bacon-wrapped dates? Yes, please!

And do tell your host what you’re making so he or she can plan the rest of the menu accordingly. Extra points if it can be eaten with one hand and is something small that partygoers can finish in a few bites.

Crunchy Spiced Chickpeas

 Be sure to dry them out for an hour before cooking, which adds to their crunchiness.

  • 2 cups cooked chickpeas, rinsed if canned
  • 1 scant Tbsp. olive or coconut oil
  • 2 Tbsp. smoked paprika, harissa, za’atar, ground cumin or coriander
  • ½ tsp. salt

Rinse chickpeas well; spread out on a paper or cloth towel. Pat dry, then let dry for about an hour. Heat oven to 400 F.

In a rimmed cookie sheet, spread chickpeas evenly. Bake in center rack of oven until crunchy, about 30 minutes, stirring and rotating every 10 minutes. (Chickpeas will continue to get crunchy as they cool.)

Place hot chickpeas in a shallow bowl, drizzle with oil, spices and salt, and toss. Serve warm or cooled. Let cool completely before storing.

Fabulous Creamy Onion Dip

 Caramelizing the onions slowly yields a depth of flavor that a packaged mix can’t begin to compare to!

  • 1½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt or sour cream
  • 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
  • 1 clove garlic, finely grated
  • Olive oil for drizzling
  • Optional: 2 shallots, thinly sliced, ¼ cup finely chopped chives

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and shallots, if using; season with salt and pepper. Cook 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally until onions soften and begin turning golden brown.

Reduce heat to low; continue cooking, stirring often so onions don’t stick, another 45–50 minutes until onions are a deep golden brown and reduced by about half their original size. (Resist the urge to turn up the heat to make them caramelize faster!) Transfer onions to cutting board and finely chop. Place in a large bowl with sour cream, yogurt, lemon juice and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to serving bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with chives.

creamy onion dip
The secret to this delicious dip: caramelized onions.

Cheese Pennies

Delicious and addictive … you’ve been warned!

  • 2 cups grated sharp, aged cheddar cheese
  • 8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1½ cups flour
  • ¾ tsp. salt
  • ½ tsp. dry mustard
  • 2 Tbsp. cayenne pepper or paprika

Using a mixer or food processor, combine all ingredients (except cayenne/paprika) to make a cohesive dough, sprinkling in a tablespoon or so of water if it doesn’t come together. Gather dough into a rough ball and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Roll into a 16-inch log, about 1½-inches in diameter. Wrap in plastic wrap; chill in the freezer for 30 minutes.

Using a serrated knife, slice the log crosswise into 1/8-inch rounds. Place on ungreased or parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving about a half-inch between them. Sprinkle with paprika/cayenne.

Bake in 400 F oven for 11–13 minutes until beginning to brown. Remove from oven; cool on pan for several minutes before transferring to racks to cool completely.

Bacon-Wrapped Dates Stuffed with Goat Cheese

An easy alternative is to just stuff dates with goat cheese and serve them raw. This recipe takes it up a notch. Vegetarians—omit the bacon.

  • 8 slices bacon, thinly sliced
  • 16 medium Medjool dates, pitted
  • 4 oz. goat cheese
  • Wood toothpicks

Preheat oven to 350 F. Slice dates lengthwise on one side to create an opening. Remove pit. Using a spoon, stuff a little goat cheese into the cavity of each date; press sides together to close.

Cut bacon slices in half. Wrap each date with a slice of bacon; secure with a toothpick. Arrange dates evenly on a foil-covered, rimmed cookie sheet. Bake 10 minutes.

Remove from oven and use toothpick to turn each one to lay on one side. Bake another 5–8 minutes until a little browned, then turn the dates to the other side and cook 5–8 minutes more. Remove from oven and transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Cool 5 minutes before serving.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Christmas cheer, a referendum rabble: the week at the morning press conferences

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The president speaks at his Wednesday press conference.
The president speaks at his Wednesday press conference.

Christmas was fast approaching, and the president would spend it at his rural home, where he plans to retire, in Palenque, Chiapas.

Monday

Chile was on the top of the president’s mind on Monday. He admitted his “unconcealable” pleasure at left-winger Gabriel Boric’s election victory, which he called “a triumph for democracy.” He said he’d already spoken to the political newcomer.

France was next. Its ambassador to Mexico, Jean-Yves Le Drian, was to receive the Aztec Eagle, the highest award for a foreigner. The ambassador spoke on behalf of the 40,000 French citizens living in Mexico.

“These entrepreneurs, these students, these artists, they’re proud to participate in the construction of tomorrow’s Mexico with you and your fellow citizens. In aeronautics, in transport, in the automotive sector, in the health sector, but also in the cultural sector,” he said.

The president said the countries shared the values of liberty, equality and fraternity, and mentioned the French engineering firm Alstom’s involvement in building the Maya Train. He thanked France for its help returning artifacts to Mexico.

A referendum on whether AMLO should serve the second half of his term was delayed indefinitely by the National Electoral Institute (INE). The Tabascan said the head of the INE wasn’t fit for the job as he’d worked as a journalist for Carmen Aristegui, who herself recently entered the president’s bad books.

He renewed his insistence that migrants could solve labor shortages in the United States and Canada, and invited France’s President Macron to visit Mexico.

Tuesday

In the weekly COVID-19 update, Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell said 23 people had been infected with the new omicron variant, but none of them suffered severe symptoms.

On economic matters, the president had one eye on China’s growth and urged the United States to catch up for the good of the world. “A hegemony of any country does not suit us, because if there are imbalances you are going to want to solve those disparities with the use of force, with war. We want there to be balance so that there is peace,” he said.

Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell gives his weekly pandemic update.
Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell gives his weekly pandemic update.

The Foreign Minister, Marcelo Ebrard, said the 11 U.S. gun manufacturers who are the object of a legal complaint by the Mexican government knew that the weapons they sold were destined for drug traffickers in Mexico, and did nothing to stop it. “We are going to win our complaint,” he said with confidence.

Monday, the president figured, wasn’t a bad day: there were a relatively low 68 homicides and November was the least violent month since he took office. The Tabascan’s critics, who fear he’ll find power all too comfortable, were offered an assurance: “The mistake that some left wing rulers in Latin America made has consisted in wanting to get reelected,” he said.

Wednesday

The president confirmed that the acquisition of Deer Park, an oil refinery in Texas, had been authorized in the U.S.

Fake news detector Ana García Vilchis said workers at the energy regulator weren’t corrupt, the Economy Ministry hadn’t contracted a food company for a restaurant and public hospitals were not short on drugs.

Later in the conference, Ebrard said up to 2,000 migrants — about a third of them Mexicans — were being returned to the country each day from the U.S. under its “Remain in Mexico” policy. The government, he added, asked the U.S to hear asylum claims it would otherwise ignore.

“About 10% of that flow is people who want to apply for asylum. So, what is being discussed is for them to be given an appointment in court so that they can present their case,” even after they are returned to Mexico, he said.

However, the foreign minister said he couldn’t say when the Remain in Mexico policy would end.

The president was in a festive mood. He’d already received a gift and insisted he wasn’t any scrooge. “They brought me a doll. They say I don’t love Santa. A journalist said I am so anti-foreigner that I don’t like Santa … the truth is I respect Santa, but I have a lot of affection for the wise men.”

Thursday 

Seasonal sentimentality kicked off the conference: “We convey our greetings to all Mexicans, to all the families of our country … so that this Christmas is one of happiness, of harmony, of reconciliation, of love with our loved ones. Also with our friends … One has to know how to forgive and to forgive oneself. Not to hate,” the president said.

Deputy Human Rights Minister Alejandro Encinas threatened the Christmas cheer with an update on missing people. He said there were about 52,000 unidentified bodies in mass graves and forensic laboratories, and added that state governments needed to commit more money to find more, and help identify them.

Deputy Human Rights Minister Alejandro Encinas gave an update on the country's 'forensic crisis' of unidentified bodies.
Deputy Human Rights Minister Alejandro Encinas gave an update on the country’s ‘forensic crisis’ of unidentified bodies.

The Supreme Court decreed that the referendum on whether the president should continue his term could not be delayed. The president expressed his satisfaction with the decision. “That was a very good decision, because it’s democracy … I believe that opposing the revocation of the mandate — the holding of a consultation — to obstruct asking citizens about the behavior of a leader is to act in an undemocratic manner,” he said.

“Well, see you. Happy New Year. Merry Christmas,” the president added, before striding away to attend to the nation.

Friday

The president was in his Chiapas home on Friday, leaving early risers to their own devices.

Instead, a Christmas song: part of a festive tune by norteño band Los Tigres del Norte (the tigers of the north).

“… The Christmas of the poor is more beautiful than any,
because God accompanies us under the light of the moon,
because even though there’s no more on the table than a piece of bread,
we know that he was born to fill us with peace,
we know that he always come down when Christmas arrives.

“Christmas, Christmas, Christmas, Christmas,

“For whites, for blacks, for the old, for the young,
for the poor, for the rich,
for all men of good heart who inhabit the world.
Hallelujah!
That’s why even though I’m poor,
I feel lucky when Christmas Eve arrives,
because I have God by my side,
and though the house is small, the doors become big,
so that everyone who wants to come, can come,
when Christmas arrives.”

Happy Christmas!

Mexico News Daily

Holiday season in Mexico City means more fireworks—and higher pollution levels

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A flag flies above Chapultepec on a smoggy day.
A flag flies above Chapultepec on a smoggy day.

Another of Mexico’s frequent bursts of heightened fireworks activity is upon us and for Mexico City that means higher pollution on Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Mexico City has recorded elevated pollution levels on those days every year for the past 21 years due to the explosion of fireworks, according to the agency responsible for monitoring air quality in the capital.

The fine particle pollution was so bad at Christmas in 2018 and 2019 that air quality emergencies were declared.

Pollution has already been a problem in the capital this month as mobility increased due to the switch to low risk green on the federal government’s coronavirus stoplight map. There have been six December days when air quality in the capital was deemed very bad or extremely bad.

The explosion of cohetes (bottle rockets) and cuetes (fireworks) only exacerbates the problem.

“During fireworks displays there is a significant increase of metal traces in the air and they can sometimes also produce highly toxic contaminants such as dioxins and polychlorinated furans,” said a National Polytechnic Institute study.

Pollution from fireworks is also a problem in neighboring México state, especially in the municipalities of Tultepec, Tultitlán and Zumpango, where the explosives are sold at markets.

Fireworks are a staple of all kinds of celebrations in Mexico, including religious, patriotic and sporting ones.

With reports from Reforma 

Tequila production breaks new records

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Workers harvest blue agave, the base ingredient of tequila.
Workers harvest blue agave, the base ingredient of tequila. (Archive)

Tequila production and exports reached their highest level ever in 2021, with almost 500 million liters produced in the first 11 months of the year.

The Tequila Regulatory Council (CRT) reported that 487.5 million liters of Mexico’s most famous tipple were produced between January and November, a 41.2% increase compared to the same period of 2020.

The industry group said that domestic demand for tequila increased 117% this year, while exports grew by a more modest 17.6%.

It said that a record 310.5 million liters of the distilled blue agave beverage – 64% of total production – was exported between January and November, leaving 177 million liters for the shot glasses, margaritas and palomas (cocktails made with tequila and grapefruit soda) of adult Mexicans.

Total production in 2021 is expected to be around 527 million liters, the CRT said, while total exports are predicted to be 336 million liters. More than 2 million tonnes of agave will have been used in tequila production by the end of the year, the council said.

The plant is grown by 25,000 registered agaveros who supply the raw material for 1,913 tequila brands, up from just 516 in 1995.

Five records were set in 2021, the CRT noted, explaining that in addition to the production and export records, agave use by the tequila industry, grower numbers and brand numbers reached new highs.

Tequila is mainly made in Jalisco, specifically the municipality of Tequila, but the spirit can also be legally produced in certain municipalities in four others states: Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit and Tamaulipas.

With reports from Milenio

Puebla-Cholula tourist train proves too costly, will shut down Jan. 1

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The train runs between Puebla city and Cholula, a tourist destination and home of the Tlachihualtepetl pyramid.
The train runs between Puebla city and Cholula, a tourist destination and home of the Tlachihualtepetl pyramid.

The tourist train that runs between Puebla City and Cholula – a nearby “magical town” that is home to the world’s largest pyramid – is not economically viable and will not operate in 2022, the state government said.

Transport official Juan Carlos Moreno Valle told a press conference Thursday that the operation and maintenance of the two trains and tracks costs 58.4 million pesos (US $2.8 million) annually.

The cost on a per-passenger basis is 1,542 pesos (US $75) but a ticket costs just 60 pesos (US $3) for tourists and 30 pesos for locals. Moreno said that 1.45 million passengers per year are needed to cover costs but the highest ridership since the 1.57-billion-peso (US $76.1 million) train service began operations in 2017 was just over 161,000 in 2019.

“… We can categorically say that [the train] is not economically viable,” he said, adding that it hasn’t provided a significant boost to tourism and has not been overly popular among locals.

Puebla Governor Miguel Barbosa first announced in November that the train wouldn’t operate next year.

The service runs 17 kilometers between central Puebla city and Cholula with no intermediate stops, meaning that it is of no use to people who want to go somewhere between the two locations. Moreno said the federal government authorization under which the train operates doesn’t allow for additional stops.

The official said that Puebla authorities are collaborating with the French Development Agency on a study to identify alternative transport options in the short, medium and long term.

For their part, passengers and vendors at the Cholula station called on the government to reconsider the decision to shut the train down.

María Goreti, a Cholula woman who catches the train to work, told the news website e-consulta she was disappointed the service wouldn’t continue next year.

“… I live in Cholula and [the train] leaves me closer to my home [than the bus]. I believe it’s a good transport [option] for people who want to visit Cholula; it’s faster and less dangerous than buses, it’s cleaner too,” she said.

Verónica Rico, a vendor with a stall next to the Cholula terminal, said her sales will decline without passengers going to and from the station. She blamed a lack of publicity for the low ridership, although she acknowledged that passenger numbers increase on weekends.

The development of the Cholula train station was controversial when it began in 2015, with permit irregularities and accusations that the construction destroyed archaeological sites containing pottery fragments.

Each of the two trains that run between Puebla city and Cholula has the capacity to carry 284 passengers. The trip takes approximately 40 minutes.

With reports from El Universal and e-consulta

Oxxo announces plans to hire Haitian migrants

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FEMSA announced its hiring plans on Twitter this week.
FEMSA announced its hiring plans on Twitter this week.

Oxxo convenience stores will hire Haitian migrants, the chain’s parent company announced on Wednesday.

FEMSA, a multinational beverage and retail company and owner of the Oxxo stores, announced the policy on Twitter.

“In FEMSA we are committed to inclusion and diversity, giving employment opportunities to refugee and migrant people,” the multinational wrote. “Through Oxxo stores, we hire displaced people from Haiti, giving them the opportunity to start a new life here.”

The announcement signals the fulfillment of a promise: FEMSA President José Antonio Fernández has said since June that his company would offer jobs to migrants and refugees.

Immigration authorities and federal officials have said that they “have no problem” with welcoming migrants “as long as they respect the laws.”

Over the past year, tens of thousands of asylum applications from Haitian migrants have flooded the Mexican refugee agency, threatening to overwhelm the system. The migrants are fleeing a combination disaster caused by crime, the assination of their president, an earthquake, a hurricane and the pandemic.

With reports from El Universal

Want a book in English? Otomi? Chinese? The Jalisco State Library has it!

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Jalisco State Library
Jalisco State Library's Rigoberto Hernández shows his son a book from the library's extensive Chinese collection.

The neighborhood public library occupies a warm spot in the memories of my childhood — a friendly, welcoming place, as well as a seemingly limitless source of information and entertainment.

When I moved to Mexico some decades ago, lending libraries open to the public were few to be seen. Sometimes I would find one in the Casa de Cultura of some pueblito, but most often their book collection would occupy only a couple of shelves.

A friend of mine with the United States Peace Corps noticed the same thing. Unlike me, she did something about it.

Barbara Dye found resources to buy children’s books and started her own traveling library, bringing reading material to kids in remote corners of Jalisco’s Primavera Forest. One day, I tagged along in her truck-turned-bookmobile.

I must confess that I was greatly moved by the joy and enthusiasm of those children as Barbara brought them new boxes of books from which they could choose ones to borrow. What impressed me most, however, was what the kids were doing with those books.

Outdoor, children-run school, Jalisco
A serious young reader at an outdoor school improvised by local children.

“They’ve started their own school,” Barbara told me, “under this tree. They meet together regularly, and each one tells the others all about the book that he or she is reading.”

The idea of a public library in Mexico, I suspect, may have been influenced by the notion of public libraries in Spain.

Once upon a time, in 1976, I lived in Barcelona. When I discovered that the Biblioteca de Catalunya had a huge collection of books, both in Spanish and in English, I made immediate inquiries about acquiring a library card.

I had wanted to do a comparative English-Spanish study of literary translations. I thought the Barcelona library ideal for this but quickly discovered that I could not accomplish my purpose without a library card.

To get one, I was obliged to amass a thick stack of documents, including a letter from the United States consul swearing that he would take personal responsibility for any books I might fail to return. It took four months till I finally had that precious library card in my hand.

My wife and I walked into the Biblioteca. I was carrying a camera and tripod (knowing that in Spain, flashes are an abomination in all public buildings). I hoped to get pictures of some of the library’s impressive murals.

Outdoor children-run school, Jalisco
Children living in Jalisco’s Primavera Forest are often left to fend for themselves by the public school system.

Out of nowhere, a guard popped up. “Señor, we do not permit the use of cameras — or tripods — in the Barcelona library.”

So I checked the tripod and camera and we walked — hand in hand — toward the room housing the English book collection.

Another guard appeared out of nowhere.

Estimados visitantes,” he said, “I regret to inform you that holding hands between persons of different genders is forbidden in the Barcelona library.”

Blushing, we distanced ourselves from each other, and I found a copy of The Old Man and the Sea. “Now, we’ll just go look at the Spanish version,” I said.

But before I could take two steps, a third guard appeared, as if right out of the woodwork.

Jalisco State Library
The Jalisco State Library’s architect, Federico González, said that its diagonal lines represent Mexico’s five dead and 17 living languages.

¡Por favor!” he said. “You may not remove any book from any room in —”

I finished the phrase for him: “in the blessed Barcelona Library. But don’t worry, señor. I have a feeling that this is not only my first but also my last visit.”

And, in fact, it was.

By chance, I now live only 29 minutes away from the Jalisco state library. Several visits have proven to me that it is far friendlier than the one I encountered in Barcelona. Perhaps this is due to its whimsical design.

If you get a chance, take a look at it and ask yourself: inside a building like that, would anyone be worried about people holding hands?

La Biblioteca Pública del Estado de Jalisco “Juan José Arreola” is located at the extreme northwest end of Guadalajara, just along the city’s ring road, the Periférico. This location has caused many city residents to be familiar with the building’s unusual and controversial architecture, designed by González Gortázar Architects.

Jalisco State Library
A library inside a library: the Carmen Balcells Center houses the greatest works of Latin American literature.

Counting its newspapers and magazines, this library — administered by the University of Guadalajara (UDG) — holds over two million items, surpassed only by the library of the National Autonomous University in Mexico City.

But can you go there and actually borrow a book?

To find out, I went there and put my question to library representative Rigoberto Hernández Gómez.

“I’ll tell you the truth,” Hernández confided. “We tried lending books 20 years ago. To make sure that all the books would be returned, we obliged people to leave their official ID card with us. The result was that we ended up with no books and three huge boxes of ID cards!”

Although you can’t borrow books from this library, you can read them onsite, with many options to choose from. To start with, the Biblioteca is divided into two buildings, one filled with contemporary works and the other dedicated to venerable old historical documents that you must view wearing gloves and a face mask.

The first building, the Edificio Contemporáneo, was full of surprises. For example, on the fifth floor, I discovered the Benjamin Franklin Library, donated by the U.S. Consulate and chock full of great books in English.

Jalisco State Library
Want to read a newspaper? The Jalisco State Library has complete collections of all the popular ones, with issues going back to 1784.

Next to it is another huge collection of 50,000 books, all in French (the Paul Rivet Library). On the same floor, there is a big collection of books in Catalan and another one of books from China.

“This collection,” Hernández told me, “is the result of a book exchange between the Chinese government and the UDG. Each donated 626 books to the other with the idea that in the future they would continue making donations. And both collections have grown considerably.”

I also discovered a big collection of books for children and adults in indigenous languages.

“Mexico’s indigenous population speaks 68 different tongues, and there are 364 varieties,” librarian Nilva Ordón told me. As an example, she showed me a book in Hñähñu (Otomi), a language spoken in several Mexican states. “Hñähñu has 14 vowel sounds, as opposed to five in Spanish,” she mentioned.

Since I am a language teacher, I countered that English has between 19 and 21 vowel sounds — depending on which expert you talk to — and assured her that for most Mexico News Daily readers, Hñähñu would be a snap.

According to Hernández, the newest addition to the Jalisco State Library is the Centro Documental de Literatura Iberoamericana Carmen Balcells (The Carmen Balcells Documentary Center for Ibero-American Literature). This is a complete collection of great works of literature produced in all of Latin America, including Brazil.

Jalisco State Library
The Benjamin Franklin Library was donated by the US Consulate in Guadalajara.

It’s unique because Carmen Balcells, who is from Spain, insisted that proper royalties be paid to all the authors of all these books: a position that stands in sharp contrast to the exploitation of writers frequently practiced in some Latin American countries.

In addition to everything I’ve mentioned above, there is also a very big librería (bookstore) inside the library: the Librería Carlos Fuentes, which boasts 120,000 titles.

So, while the library will not allow you take a book home, the librería will not object at all … as long as you pay for it.

The Jalisco State Library doesn’t quite have the nostalgia of the neighborhood public libraries of my youth, but, of course, they — and I — are from another millennium.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

Barbara Dye and traveling library, Jalisco
United States Peace Corps volunteer Barbara Dye, left, brings books to children living in the forest with no public schooling.
Jalisco state library
Want to learn the writing conventions of Hñähñu? This manual — all in Hñähñu, of course — awaits you in the Jalisco State Library.
Library card to Barcelona's Biblioteca de Catalunya
The author’s hard-won membership card for Barcelona’s Biblioteca de Catalunya.

Tractor-trailer accidents meant free chicken and electronics in Veracruz

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People help themselves to cargo after one of the accidents.
People help themselves to cargo after one of the accidents.

Some Veracruz residents might not have to buy Christmas dinner and presents this year after two semi-trailers overturned and were looted. Their cargo included food, electronics and more than 2,000 live chickens.

The first accident occurred Wednesday afternoon on the Coatzacoalcos-Villahermosa highway in the south of the state. A tractor-trailer carrying poultry to be processed hit a pothole, went out of control and flipped on its side.

It was not long until the word spread and residents of nearby communities, as well as passing motorists, began arriving and making off with the birds. Whether the chickens will survive the holidays remains unknown.

“I yelled at the people not to take the chickens but they didn’t pay attention, and well, it was me against a number of people. Then the police arrived and I asked them for help, but they couldn’t do anything either,” said the truck driver, who escaped unhurt.

The 2,000-plus chickens were gone within the hour to the horror of the driver, who could be held responsible for the loss to poultry producer Bachoco.

On Thursday morning, another semi-trailer crashed just a few kilometers down the road from the chicken incident. The second truck was loaded with a variety of Walmart products, including food and electronics. Like the first trailer, the driver lost control and it rolled over.

Again, the driver was uninjured but in less than 15 minutes the looting began. Police were unable to deter the swarm of drivers and nearby residents from taking the merchandise, but did manage to direct the flow of traffic and call a tow truck.

With reports from E-Veracruz and La Silla Rota

With 52,000 unidentified bodies, government admits forensic crisis

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Forensic service personnel carry out a mass burial of unclaimed and/or unidentified bodies in Ciudad Juárez, in 2018.
Forensic service personnel carry out a mass burial of unclaimed and/or unidentified bodies in Ciudad Juárez in 2018.

The federal government has acknowledged that Mexico is facing a “forensic crisis,” with an estimated 52,000 unidentified bodies in common graves and the nation’s morgues.

Speaking at President López Obrador’s morning press conference on Thursday, Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas conceded that the government doesn’t have the capacity to guarantee the identification of bodies and ensure they are returned to their families.

“… According to estimations of both public institutes and non-governmental organizations we have about 52,000 unidentified bodies in common graves and morgues,” he said.

Encinas also acknowledged that there are more than 95,000 missing people in Mexico, most of whom disappeared in the last 15 years.

He said that authorities are discussing the possibility of establishing a national human identification center to attend to the vast backlog of unidentified bodies. Three regional identification centers are already in operation, including one in Saltillo, Coahuila, where hundreds of bodies have recently been exhumed from common graves.

Encinas’ remarks came a month after the United Nations Committee on Enforced Disappearances (CED) finished a 12-day visit to Mexico to assess the country’s capacity to respond to the missing persons crisis.

Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas spoke about the forensic crisis at Thursday morning's presidential press conference.
Deputy Interior Minister Alejandro Encinas spoke about the forensic crisis at Thursday morning’s presidential press conference.

CED president Carmen Rosa Villa Quintana declared that 52,000 unidentified bodies constituted a “forensic crisis,” while the committee she leads concluded that an inadequate security strategy, poor investigations into missing person cases and impunity were key factors in the persistence of abductions in Mexico.

Data for 2006 to 2019 shows that the number of bodies that entered morgues and remained unidentified increased sharply in the second half of the 2006-12 presidency of Felipe Calderón, who launched a war on cartels shortly after he took office. The numbers remained high – over 2,000 – during the first four years of  2012-18 government led by Enrique Peña Nieto before spiking in 2017 and increasing again in 2018.

The forensic crisis has only worsened since López Obrador took office just over three years ago, with the total number of unidentified bodies increasing from about 34,000 to 52,000, a 53% jump. The majority of unidentified corpses are male but thousands of female bodies also lie anonymous in morgues. They are among more than 350,000 people who have been murdered in Mexico in the past 15 years.

Data for 2006 to 2019 also shows that 56% of unidentified bodies were located in just five states: México state, Mexico City, Baja California, Jalisco and Chihuahua. There were more than 5,000 unidentified corpses in the first two states at the end of 2019.

The high number of unidentified bodies has overwhelmed morgues in numerous states. Meanwhile, members of thousands of families – frustrated and angry with the authorities for their failure to locate or identify thousands of missing persons – continue to search for their missing loved ones, digging up land where hidden graves might be located and seeking access to morgues.

The government has promised to allocate more resources to the search and identification of missing persons, and there is a National Search Commission and local search commissions in every state.

But “most of the burden continues to fall on family members, search groups and other non-governmental organizations, which face bureaucratic barriers, corruption and government negligence,” InSight Crime, a foundation dedicated to the study of organized crime, said in August.

With reports from El Universal and Quinto Elemento Lab