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Legislation proposed to guarantee free internet access in CDMX

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Mexico City is ranked as one of the world's most connected cities thanks to its free Wi-Fi program. (Moisés Pablo Nava/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico City’s government has submitted two bills to the local legislature seeking to guarantee free access to internet as a human right and to increase digital inclusion in marginalized areas.

The head of the government’s Digital Agency for Public Innovation (ADIP), José Antonio Peña Merino, told El Universal newspaper that the goal is to ensure free internet access is maintained even after the current administration leaves office. Since 2013, access to the internet has been constitutionally protected in Mexico as part of citizens’ rights to information.

According to Peña, the legislative proposal seeks an amendment to the city constitution to specify that connectivity is a right that can’t be removed.

José Merino at CDMX Congress
José Merino (center), head of the CDMX digital innovation agency, presents the bill to the local legislature. (José Merino/Twitter)

The proposal prioritizes connectivity in healthcare centers, educational centers, government offices, community centers, public transportation systems, parks, and classrooms.

In 2020, the city’s free Wi-Fi project was recognized as the world’s best connectivity initiative by the UN-sponsored World Summit on the Information Society (WSIS) and last year, the metropolis was recognized as the most connected city on Earth by Guinness World Records. There are 29,255 access points today and Peña Merino said the goal is to reach 33,000 by the end of the current administration’s term in 2024.

To provide free Wi-Fi to both visitors and residents, the municipal government pays telecommunications provider Telmex approximately US $35.8 million annually.

Moscow is a rival for the most connected city, with over 24,000 free hot spots. However, in Moscow, users must provide personal data to log in, while the Mexican government has insisted it does not collect user data.

With reports from El Universal and Infobae

At this lavandería, getting your clothes washed takes a leap of faith

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The writer's local laundromat has a few rules of operation, like don't bother the proprietor when she's eating. (Illustration: Miguel Ángel Gómez Cabrera)

All I wanted was to have my clothes washed once a week. Doesn’t sound too difficult, right? 

But there are almost no self-service laundromats in Mexico like there are where I’m from in the United States, ones where you take your clothes, put some money into washers and dryers and then walk out later with clean, dry clothes. 

What you do find in Mexico are lavanderías, small places (actually, almost always just the front room of someone’s home) where you bring your clothes to be washed, dried and folded for a couple of bucks. 

A bargain. But a challenging one at times. 

Because lavanderías aren’t exactly a business. They’re really just places where someone has cleared out a room and put in a couple of washing machines and maybe a dryer or two. I guess you could call them a family business, with the emphasis on “family.” 

If the family needs a day off or is attending a local fiesta, the lavandería will be closed. Sometimes for days. Without any warning. And even when they are open, getting my clothes washed — and, equally important, returned — often requires perseverance and keeping my temper in check. 

The lavandería I usually go to, which is only a couple of blocks from my apartment, has now been closed for several days. This isn’t all that unusual. They seem to need a lot of days off.

Despite this inconvenience, Angélica, the woman who runs it, is nice, and I continue to go there when she’s open. When she’s not, I go to another lavandería called Las Siete Gotas (The Seven Drops), which is about a 15-minute walk from my apartment. Having my clothes washed there’s always an adventure.

I once dropped my clothes off there and was told they’d be ready the next day in the afternoon. I know how Mexicans often estimate time and figured they’d be ready late afternoon at best. 

So I stopped by the lavanderia the next day at 4 p.m. I was told they’d be ready by 6 p.m.

I wasn’t thrilled because I was almost out of clean clothes at that point, but there wasn’t a lot I could do. So I headed back to my apartment, worked a bit and, a little after 6 p.m., headed back to the lavandería

Still not ready. And when will they be ready, I asked? 

Una hora.” (One hour.)

Another 15-minute walk back to my apartment; at least I was getting some exercise. 

A little before 7 p.m, I headed back there, and as I approached, the woman gave me a little finger wag — the clothes still weren’t ready. 

“They are not dry, señor.” 

They were not dry because she had yet to put them in the dryer. 

I decided not to point that out to her and instead asked her to give me one pair of pants. I took them and told her I’d be back the next day. 

I headed back to my apartment with a damp pair of pants that I carefully draped above the space heater, hoping they wouldn’t catch fire and would be dry by morning. 

Raging optimist that I am, I returned to Las Siete Gotas the next day, fully expecting to leave with clean clothes. I waited until late afternoon, figuring the more time the owner had, the greater the chance I had of getting my clothes back. 

Silly me. 

Hola,” I said as cheerily as possible when I arrived.

“The clothes are not ready,” she said, “I have not folded them.”

I don’t know why I didn’t just ask her to hand them over. “When will they be ready?” I tried hard to keep a smile on my face.

“Thirty minutes.”

I waited until that evening, three hours after I’d been told they’d be ready in 30 minutes. When I arrived, she was in the back, eating. As soon as she saw me, she pointed to her food and then to her mouth.

“I am eating,” she said.

“I need my clothes.”

“They are not ready,” she replied. “They are not folded.”

“But I need them. Please just put them in a bag.”

She did this, although not without showing displeasure at having her meal interrupted. She charged me 61 pesos (about US $3). I handed her 70 pesos, a 50-peso bill and a 20.

“I do not have change,” she said.

Given that response, I actually expected her to keep the 50-peso note and hand me back the 20 pesos, but she started walking away; it was clear she was going to keep all the money. 

Although we’re talking about me paying about 50 cents extra, I was annoyed enough by now. I wasn’t going to give her one peso more. “Excuse me,” I said with just a hint of annoyance creeping into my voice. “It’s 61 pesos, not 70.” 

She slowly walked back, reluctantly handed over the 20-peso note and returned to her meal.

A week later, the lavandería that’s a couple of blocks from my apartment was open again. I dropped my clothes off and was told they’d be ready the next day. I told Angélica that I really needed them because I was leaving town for a couple of days. She assured me they’d be ready that afternoon. 

Of course, when I went to pick them up, she was closed. 

Frustrated, I decided not to go back to either place. Happily, I’d found another lavandería just a couple of blocks away. Amazingly, they were open when they said they would be, and my clothes were ready when they said they would be too. My laundry problems had finally been solved.

Then, I woke up one morning with a couple of what I assumed were mosquito bites on the back of my neck. 

That night, I slathered on bug repellent but found more bites the next day. In bed that night, I felt something nibbling on my neck. I grabbed it, turned on the light and found a well-fed chinche. A bed bug. 

I leapt out of bed and squashed several of them on my pillow. They had to have come from the new lavandería

I threw out the mattress, pillows and bed frame and spent the next month boiling — yes, boiling — every sheet, bedspread and article of clothing I had. After boiling, I sealed everything made of cloth into bags and placed them in sealed containers. I sprayed the apartment several times a day for three months. 

Everything I read tells me it’s damn near impossible to get rid of chinches, but after three months, I appear to be victorious.

And I’ve decided it’s time to buy a washing machine.

Joseph Sorrentino, a writer, photographer and author of the book San Gregorio Atlapulco: Cosmvisiones and of Stinky Island Tales: Some Stories from an Italian-American Childhood, is a regular contributor to Mexico News Daily. More examples of his photographs and links to other articles may be found at www.sorrentinophotography.com He currently lives in Chipilo, Puebla.

Holiday spending expected to boost small business recovery

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Vendors of traditional piñatas. (Depositphotos)

Small businesses in Mexico City are anticipating a more lucrative holiday season, with projected revenue of over US $855 million, Arturo Vega Martínez, president of the Chamber of Commerce for Services and Tourism (Canacope), told the newspaper El Economista.

In 2019, microbusiness and small businesses made US $650 million during the month of December, and while the sector suffered setbacks in 2020 and 2021, he said, this year is showing signs of recovery.

There’s a lot to recover from: between May 2019 and July 2021, the country saw an overall 8.17% net loss in the number of all types of businesses in the country, according to INEGI’s business demographics report (DN), which records the number of new businesses in Mexico that opened in a certain period and the number that permanently closed.

Small and medium-sized businesses took the biggest hit during this period, with a net 14.5% fewer of these types of businesses still standing across the country in 2021. Microbusinesses nationwide fared better, but still had a net loss of 7.94%.

Mexico City’s small and medium-sized businesses landscape did even worse during the same period, with an overall 17.21% net loss. Microbusinesses again did better, but still suffered a net loss of 6.04%.

The pilgrimage to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe on Dec. 12, which Mexico City officials announced Monday brought 11 million pilgrims to the Catholic shrine, many from outside the city, will kick-start the season.  The event was expected to generate US $31 million, mostly in revenue for small local vendors in the area surrounding the church. Pilgrims spend between 1,400 and 16,000 pesos on expenses and purchases while in the city, El Economista reported.

Canacope also anticipates around 1.3 million piñatas will be sold in Mexico City alone during December, with the price of a piñata ranging from 60 to 600 pesos (US $3 to $30).

Piñata makers suffered in 2020 and 2021 with the COVID-19 pandemic shutting down the birthday parties and other social celebrations that were their bread and butter — particularly posadas, a Christmas social tradition where families and friends gather to recreate Mary and Joseph’s journey to Bethlehem, and where the piñata is considered a staple element.

But with COVID restrictions falling away, Canacope predicts that piñata sales will make a comeback this holiday season. Tangerines, oranges, peanuts, jícama and tejocote (Mexican hawthorn), as well as lime and sugar cane are all traditional piñata fillings, which could also mean improved sales for agricultural producers of these items. The harvest of these crops generated a production value of US $855.9 million by the end of 2021, the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (Sader) reported.

While celebrations make a comeback, inflation will strain many households’ finances: the National Small Business Association (ANPEC) estimates families will spend up to 30% more this season than they did in 2021. And El Economista reported that the traditional elements of a Mexican Christmas dinner — turkey, pork leg or pork loin — have all experienced price increases of as much as 20% in recent months.

With reports from El Economista

Monterrey and Mexico City lead the country in industrial real estate demand

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The silhouette of construction workers and a crane against a yellow sky.
The demand is driving the construction of new industrial space across the country. (Shivendu Shukla / Unsplash)

Demand for industrial real estate is on the rise across the country, with the highest demand seen in Monterrey and Mexico City, according to data from the real estate agency Solili.

From January to November, gross industrial demand across Mexico was 6.6 million square meters, a figure 13% higher than that registered in the same period in 2021, real estate agency Solili reported. At the forefront are Monterrey and Mexico City, with the former registering demand for more than 1.6 million square meters and Mexico City reporting demand for 1.4 million square meters. That means Monterrey accounts for a quarter of the national demand while Mexico City represents 22% of the total.

According to Solili’s report, just in November Mexico City registered the construction of 150,000 square meters of new industrial space, while 132,000 square meters of space were built in Monterrey.

The Bajío area, which includes the states of Guanajuato, Querétaro, San Luis Potosí and Aguascalientes, has also reported an increase in industrial demand. From January to November, the region reported a gross demand of more than 1.3 million square meters, a figure 50% higher than that registered in the same period of 2021.

Triggers of the growth include factors associated with business expansions and specific large projects related to industrial-scale data centers, furniture manufacturing and the automotive sector.

Other northern markets such as Saltillo, Ciudad Juárez, Reynosa and Tijuana account for another quarter of the demand registered from January to November.

These numbers across the country reflect a 13% increase in demand for industrial space over the same period of 2021.

“2022 has been a crucial year for the Mexican industrial market, which has managed to strengthen itself amid the increase in world inflation and the restructure of supply chains,” Solili said.

Finally, in the firm’s latest report on foreign direct investment published in November, Mexico attracted US $3.1 billion of funds, a figure that already exceeds the amount registered in all of 2021.

With reports from El Economista and Solili

Unprecedented 11 million Catholics flock to CDMX’s Guadalupe basilica

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image of pilgrims at the Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City in 2022
Days before the Virgin's feast day on Dec. 12, hundreds of thousands if not millions are already camping out in the area around the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City. (Photo: alex_wolf_mx/Twitter)

Mexico City officials said Monday that they’ve calculated that 11 million Catholic pilgrims arrived in the nation’s capital this year to converge at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Monday marked the culmination of pilgrimages by millions of Catholics from all over Mexico to the shrine to Guadalupe, an invocation of the Virgin Mary often credited with cementing Catholicism in indigenous Mexico. Pilgrims gather annually at her shrine for her feast day on Dec. 12.

City official Martí Batres announced that 11 million people had arrived at the La Villa Basilica complex in the days leading up to the Virgin’s feast day of Dec. 12.

It was not clear whether the number constituted an attendance record for visitors to the Catholic holy site for the Dec. 12 celebrations, but some sources have placed the record at 8 million visitors. The church’s rector recently said he expected turnout for the first restrictions-free celebration since 2020 to surpass previous attendance numbers.

Woman at Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City
A pilgrim places a candle inside the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City on Monday. (Photo: Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum said that an estimated 5 million people arrived to the basilica on Sunday alone.

Typically, an estimated 95,000 Catholics per hour pass through the Basilica annually on the Dec. 12 feast day.

The city, which each year launches a massive logistics operation to support the influx, said it provided food and water to pilgrims at government attention centers along five routes into the city and provided medical attention to 2,721 people throughout the days of celebration.

Batres also said that the city had distributed 243,000 liters of water and that cleaning crews had collected 548 tonnes of associated trash since last week when pilgrims began arriving.

Guadalupe Basilica pilgrims camping outside the church the night before Dec. 12
Pilgrims watched over by a religious icon camp outside the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica the night before the Virgin of Guadalupe’s feast day. (Photo: Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

The faithful, a visible sight every year in the capital, come carrying bedding or tents on their backs to camp out in the basilica’s courtyard for days before in anticipation of the celebration. Many also bring family heirlooms  — candles, statues, framed images of the Virgin, crosses and more to be blessed. Some faithful drop to their knees near the entrance and crawl in as a show of devotion or of thanks to the Virgin.

Many Mexicans who do not participate in the pilgrimage will still erect an altar to Guadalupe in their homes and celebrate on this day as well as in churches dedicated to her throughout Mexico.

But the basilica is special because Catholics believe that the Our Lady of Guadalupe first appeared at this site on December 9, 1531, to an indigenous Chichimec convert known as Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. 

The timing of this apparition of the Virgin Mary — who was dark-skinned and spoke in Nahuatl — came during the Spanish conquest’s earliest days in Mexico, only 10 years after the fall of Mexica capital of Tenochtitlan. At the time, inhabitants of the Valley of Mexico were still naturally skeptical of the religion their conquerors wanted them to adopt. 

The story of the Virgin’s apparition to the indigenous Juan Diego is credited with having converted millions in Mexico to Catholicism.

pilgrim at the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica
A pilgrim dressed as Our Lady of Guadalupe holds a statue of the Virgin she brought with her to the basilica. (Photo: Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

According to Catholic lore, Juan Diego is said to have been walking past Tepeyac Hill on his way to religious instruction when the Virgin appeared, instructing him to tell the archbishop of Mexico City, Juan de Zumárraga, to erect a chapel in her honor.

But de Zumarrága was skeptical. Juan Diego returned to Tepeyac Hill later that day, when the Virgin is said to have appeared a second time. After Juan Diego informed her of his failure to convince the archbishop, she insisted that he return to de Zumárraga and repeat her request.

On Dec. 10, Juan Diego returned to the bishop, and this time, de Zumarrága asked for proof, so Juan Diego returned to Tepeyac Hill, where the Virgin appeared a third time, assuring him that she’d provide a sign the next day. 

Saint Juan Diego by Jose Guadalupe Posada
A somewhat rare rendering of Saint Juan Diego with dark skin, by famed La Catrina artist, José Guadalupe Posada. (Photo: Creative Commons)

On Dec. 11, however, his beloved uncle became seriously ill and was near death, causing Juan Diego to miss his appointment with the Virgin. So on Dec. 12, when he went in search of a priest to hear his uncle’s final confession, he avoided Tepeyac Hill, ashamed that he had missed his appointment. 

Nevertheless, the Virgin appeared, and when Juan Diego told her of his dying uncle, she responded, “Am I not here, I, who am your mother?” words that are engraved above the basilica’s entrance.

She told Juan Diego that his uncle was healed and instructed him to climb to the top of Tepeyac Hill, collect the flowers he’d find there — a miraculous sight in December — and bring them to the archbishop. He brought the roses he found to de Zumárraga, carrying them in his tilma, a traditional indigenous cloak. When he opened the tilma, it’s said the Virgin’s image revealed itself on the inside of the garment, which the archbishop immediately venerated. 

In addition, Juan Diego’s fully recovered uncle told his nephew that the Virgin had also appeared to him, telling him to inform the archbishop of his miraculous recovery and that she wished to be known as “de Guadalupe.”

By December 26, the tilma was placed in a hastily erected chapel on Tepeyac Hill, of which Juan Diego became the caretaker until his death. 

Virgin of Guadalupe
The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe said to have appeared on the cloak of Saint Juan Diego, an indigenous convert to Catholicism.

Pilgrimages to the small chapel began soon after it was built and have continued ever since. By 1709, crowds had so overwhelmed the site that a new shrine was built at the foot of Tepeyac Hill to house Juan Diego’s tilma for viewing, now located in the current basilica, built in 1976. The current basilica can hold 10,000. 

For the millions of pilgrims at the basilica Monday, festivities began at the stroke of midnight, with those gathered outside singing “Las Mañanitas” (Mexico’s traditional birthday song) to the Virgin. The faithful then crowd the basilica’s entrance to view the cloak inside and have objects blessed.

The area around the basilica is typically filled with vendors of all kinds — selling food as well as religious souvenirs. People come in religious costumes, and there is singing, dancing, prayer and performances of traditional indigenous dances.  

In 2002, Pope John Paul II traveled to Mexico to canonize Juan Diego as a Roman Catholic saint, the first indigenous to the Americas. Guadalupe has long been the patron saint of Mexico and was declared by the Church the Patroness of the Americas in 1945.

Juan Diego was also made a saint in 2002, the first saint indigenous to the Americas, with a feast day of Dec. 9. Pope John Paul II, who canonized him, traveled to Mexico for the ceremony.

Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher.  She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán last year and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.

Grupo Modelo hikes beer prices, citing inflation

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Corona, Pacífico, Modelo Especial and other brands owned by Grupo Modelo have increased in price.
Corona, Pacífico, Modelo Especial and other brands owned by Grupo Modelo have increased in price. (Mario Jasso / Cuartoscuro.com)

With more than 10 beer brands in the market, Grupo Modelo will raise its prices on Monday owing to inflation, the National Small Business Association (ANPEC) has announced.

Among the beers affected are labels like Corona, Modelo, Pacífico, Modelo Especial, Victoria, Negra Modelo, Montejo and León. Information about the new price tags was not available by the time this article was written.

With an average consumption of 55 to 68 liters per year, beer is one of the beverages most consumed by Mexicans. At the same time, it is one of the products inflation has hit the hardest.

According to the national statistics institute, INEGI, beer prices in México rose 11.7% in October — the beverage’s largest variation in prices in more than 12 years. While national inflation reached 8.5%, the INEGI data shows that the price of beer has increased at a faster rate than inflation in the last four months.

A few of the beers produced by Grupo Modelo in Mexico. (Grupo Modelo)

Globally, beer has also been affected by inflation. According to the Beer Index (carried out by investment firm eToro), the cost of beer production has increased 62% in the last two years. Prices of goods like water, malt, sugar, yeast and hops have skyrocketed along with prices of aluminum (to produce the beer cans) and gasoline (to transport the product). War in Ukraine and scarcity of glass to produce the bottles have also been major factors.

On that matter, ANPEC chief Cuauhtémoc Rivera anticipated that the rise in prices would continue throughout 2023 if the economy didn’t show signs of recovery. “Without being alarmist, but rather realistic, it is expected that inflation will not stop its course and continue to rise by 2023,” he said.

However, inflation has not diminished beer consumption in Mexico, which ranks No. 30 globally in terms of drink consumption. From January to August, beer production reached 94.5 billion liters, an increase of 4.8% compared to the same period in 2021.

Karla Siqueiros, general director of Cerveceros de México (Brewers of Mexico) announced that although the industry has registered a positive trend, it hasn’t yet recovered from the pandemic effects. The organization acknowledges the possibility of a slowdown next year. However, projected purchases  and the state of the beer production chain going into 2023 present a promising outlook.

“The behavior of this industry goes hand in hand with economic and consumer performance. A complex environment could have implications for the sector, but we believe in its benefits with a highly integrated production chain. Even superior to other manufacturers,” director of economic studies of Cerveceros de México, Manuel Cedillo, said.

According to the organization, the beer industry in Mexico impacts more than 168 productive activities in the three different economic sectors. It generates more than 700,000 jobs and supports more than 5,000 malt farmers.

Overall, the beer industry contributes to 1.5% of the national GDP.

Heineken, the second largest brewery in the world, also announced it will increase its prices next year to offset the rising costs of raw materials and energy, particularly in Europe. The company said the rise would respond to the local market conditions.

With reports from El Universal, El Financiero and Infobae

Ticketmaster fined for Bad Bunny ticket fiasco in Mexico City

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Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny at an April press event in New York City.
Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny at an April press event in New York City. (Depositphotos)

Ticketmaster faces a large fine for overselling tickets to Bad Bunny’s Mexico City concert on Friday, which led to dangerous crushes and numerous legitimate ticket holders being denied entry.

Ricardo Sheffield, the head of Mexico’s consumer protection agency (Profeco), announced that Ticketmaster would be fined “up to 10% of their sales for all of last year” for the fiasco. In addition, they must reimburse affected fans 100% of the ticket price plus 20% extra in compensation.

Speaking on Radio Formula, Sheffield emphasized that Ticketmaster had knowingly oversold tickets to the concert and then attempted to cover up by claiming the excess tickets were falsified.

“Ticketmaster said they [the tickets] were fake, but they were all issued by them. It’s a very elegant way to oversell,” he said.

The consumer protection agency Profeco invited those negatively affected by the ticketing problems to join a collective action against the business, via Twitter. 

The oversale caused chaotic scenes at Mexico City’s 85,000-capacity Azteca Stadium on Friday, with severe overcrowding and repeated failures of the ticketing system at the entrances to a sold-out concert by Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny.

The stadium was forced to turn away hundreds of ticket holders and call on the support of private security personnel and the capital police to ensure the safety of attendees.

Media outlets reported fury among disappointed fans, some of whom had paid as much as 9,000 pesos (US $450), traveled across the country and queued since the previous day to see the artist.

Immediately following the incident, a statement by Azteca Stadium declared: “Elements of Ticketmaster detected cases of duplication and/or falsification of tickets for tonight’s concert, a situation that is totally alien to the Azteca Stadium. Affected persons are encouraged to lodge their complaints directly with the Ticketmaster service.”

On Saturday, Ticketmaster released a statement via Twitter apologizing to fans and reiterating the falsification claim.

“The problems at the entrances were due to the presentation of an unprecedented number of fake tickets, which caused unusual overcrowding and intermittent operation of our system,” the company stated. “This caused confusion and complicated entry to the stadium, with the regrettable consequence that some legitimate tickets were denied entry.”

Profeco’s rejection of the falsification claim will likely compound existing legal woes for Ticketmaster. During his Radio Formula interview, Sheffield revealed that Profeco has received previous complaints about Ticketmaster’s practices and has been preparing a class-action lawsuit against the company since earlier this month.

The fines and investigations add to the legal woes Ticketmaster is already dealing with in the United States. The company faces investigations by multiple U.S. state attorney generals and a lawsuit from angry fans, after shutting down the presale of tickets for Taylor Swift’s “Eras” tour last month in the face of unprecedented demand.

With reports from Reforma, Forbes and Washington Post

Kitchen blunders: when good recipes go bad

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We’ve all had this happen: you follow a recipe exactly and then it doesn’t taste anything like it’s supposed to.

Last night I made the worst dessert of my life.

I’d been obsessing on this particular recipe — Vanilla Pudding Cakes — from King Arthur Baking for a few weeks now, re-reading the downloaded recipe and looking at the photo over and over. Finally, yesterday, I decided it was time.

I got out all the ingredients. I used my kitchen scale to weigh them. I followed that recipe to the “T,” and the finished result was a pan of vanilla glop. NOTHING like the photo.

As the bake time went on and on and the cake was not “… golden brown, with some bubbles from the pudding around the edges,” I read the recipe again. I went back to the computer to see if I’d somehow miscopied it. (No.) I checked the oven temperature on the internal thermometer. All was as it should be.

Vanilla Pudding Cake
We’ve all had this happen: you follow a recipe exactly and then it doesn’t taste anything like it’s supposed to.

I tried to stay optimistic, thinking that maybe by some miracle it would pull itself together into something vaguely edible, but that was not the case. Sigh.

I still don’t know where I went wrong; the only thing I can think of is that maybe I should have sifted the flour before measuring it. I went back to the website to look at the 32 comments by other home bakers, and no one had this problem; instead, most people wrote things like “Excellent and deceptively easy recipe;” “Skipped dinner and ate the whole thing;” “Can’t wait to make it again.”

What happened? I may never know. But something — or several things — definitely went awry.

Now, I need to say I pride myself on being a fairly good cook, and while I can throw things together with flair that usually come out OK, I enjoy more following a recipe from an expert and making a dish that’s over-the-top wonderful.

When I have friends to dinner or bring a dish to a potluck, I want eye appeal as well as taste; I want to make something memorable and figure if I follow a recipe to bake, then doing the same for a Russian Salmon Pie, candied pecans or authentic achiote ranchero sauce can only be a positive thing.

So, to follow a recipe from a reputable source and have this happen? I’m still crushed and confused.

Still thinking there’s no need to break spaghetti before you cook it? Oops! Think again.

Another recent kitchen calamity at my house began the same way: a recipe from a trusted source (in this case, the subscription-based New York Times Cooking) for Vegetarian Bolognese, made with cauliflower instead of beef. Hmm, I thought, heart-healthy, meatless, comfort food — I must make this!

I splurged and bought the correct shape of imported pasta and a can of San Marzano tomatoes and used my Lodge Dutch oven for added authenticity. I imagined how amazing it would taste and who I would invite over for a Sunday dinner in homage to my Italian roots.

Sadly, this was not to be.

After hours and hours of prep and cooking, I finally allowed myself a taste. To say I was anticipating fabulousness would be an understatement. Well.

This “Vegetarian Bolognese” just tasted like cauliflower cooked in a sweet tomato sauce, otherwise known as a vegetable stew. Desperate to salvage it somehow, I googled other traditional recipes for Bolognese sauce and added some red wine, but alas… still cauliflower stew.

Maybe, I thought, if it sits overnight, the flavors will blend and it will taste more like what it’s supposed to be?

Ever the optimist, I approached the pot the following day with high hopes that were immediately dashed. A friend who’d stopped by also tasted it and tried to say something nice. I forced myself to have it that night for dinner, on the pasta I’d specially bought. Let’s just say that even covered with really good Parmesan it still tasted like… cauliflower stew.

The pot sat in the fridge for two more days, and then I was done. No point in pretending, I thought; tonight is garbage night, and out it goes. (Please know I don’t make a habit of throwing away food.)

Why am I writing this, you may be wondering? Because I want you to know I’m not perfect either. I burn things (cookies, milk, bran muffins, lentil soup), forget ingredients (water, garlic, salt), use old ingredients that don’t work (baking powder and soda), cook things too long (salmon, tuna, quick breads) or not long enough (salmon, tuna, quick breads, LOL). I make mistakes I can’t figure out (see above) and vow I’ll never cook again.

Then I come across an intriguing recipe — most recently the Cornflake Macaroons in my column from two weeks ago — watch another episode of “The Great British Bake Off” or am captivated by something on a menu and get inspired all over again. (Or I just get hungry!)

And that’s the glory of cooking; it’s a never-ending process, a game, if you will, that never ends. And whether you win or lose, it’s always a good time.

If you’re lucky, you get something delicious to eat out of it; but even if everything goes awry — like my Vanilla Pudding Cake Glop — you’ve got a funny story to tell.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Mexican workers will soon see a minimum wage hike. Will it help?

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Uber and Rappi delivery drivers in Mexico City
Workers for various internet-based delivery services wait outside a Mexico City restaurant to pick up their deliveries.

The minimum wage is going up! Finally, a bit of good news on the economic front.

The fact that it’s been raised so many times over the past few years is a credit to the president, who has made increases a major priority during his time in office. (Contrary to popular belief, I’m not anti-AMLO… I just believe in doling out credit and criticism when it’s warranted and the stakes are high.)

Anyway! In most of the country, it’s rising to 207.44 pesos (US $10.80) per day, and 312.41 pesos (US $16.30) per day in the Northern Border Free Zone — made up of 43 municipalities on the Mexico-U.S. border. These changes will take effect January 1.

But while this helps the country’s overall outlook, many workers will still be quite far from out of the woods when it comes to their expenses.

While the above salaries amount to 6,223 pesos (US $315.93) and 9,372 pesos (US $475.93) pesos a month respectively, Mexico’s canasta básica — a list of items that at its most basic level includes foodstuffs for one person for a month and at a more complete level includes things like transportation and education costs — has risen to over 11,000 pesos for a family of four, well above even the new minimums.

Minimum wages and salaries, of course, are what you will find in the formal sector for official employees. In the informal sector, anything and everything goes. As they say, beggars can’t be choosers, and there simply aren’t enough well-enough paid formal jobs to go around.

While some cities are known for their strong middle-class workforce, where I live, workers will put up with just about anything to hold onto a job, including waiting months for a paycheck or working only for tips.

The size of the informal economy in Mexico as a whole is 50% on a national level, closer to 30% in the more economically prosperous north, but closer to 70% in the poorer south. Some people in the informal economy work for others and are paid in cash, while others work on their own, selling what they can in goods and services as they try to make ends meet.

But even in the “formal” sector, companies are increasingly opting to hire workers as contractors in order to avoid giving them expensive benefits, such as allowing them to accrue seniority, and, yes, to avoid having to stay within the confines of minimum-wage rules.

Both in Mexico and in the United States, this is supposed to mean that contractors can typically demand higher pay than their employee counterparts. The reality, of course, is that the pay is often similar or lower, with the added circumstance of having little stability or predictability to their monthly incomes.

As a contractor at a variety of places myself, I’m feeling the pain too: work has been scarce these past couple of months, and I’m becoming increasingly nervous about how I’ll meet my own expenses.

When a patchwork of small jobs, many unpredictable, has people chronically underemployed, getting ahead becomes much more a matter of luck than of hard work. I might be nervous now, but I’m still doing comparatively great compared to most people out there!

So, how exactly are most people getting by?

Well, some people simply aren’t. Many are doing without a lot of things, as they always have, and the opportunities and financial resources for them and their descendants to pull themselves out of poverty (43.9% of the population in 2020) are very close to null.

The scandal of not just Mexico but of the world is this: you can work hard and you can work full-time hours and still not make enough money for you and your family to get by because you simply can’t force someone to pay you more than they’re willing to. Throw any kind of wrench (like an illness) into the works of a precarious, barely-getting-by lifestyle, and that’s it.

Luckily, there are some built-in safety nets forming the fabric of Mexico’s culture that can serve as a light padding on the concrete floor.

One of those safety nets is family: for the most part, families stick together and help each other out. It’s not all about benevolence, of course: people just tend to live better in groups, and family members tend to feel responsible for each other.

As you can probably tell, I’m being careful about our tendency to overromanticize the institution of the family. Yes, they’ll probably make sure you stay sheltered and not go hungry. But if you’re unlucky enough to be from an abusive family (or stuck in an abusive marriage) and lack the resources and opportunities to make it on your own, you’re very likely stuck with them if there are few avenues to make it on your own in a depressed economy.

Another major safety net is remittances, which are currently, and unsurprisingly, at record levels. If it weren’t for those payments sent here by Mexicans living abroad (mainly the U.S.), a lot of families in Mexico would be a lot worse off. It’s one of the many ways that the U.S. and Mexican economies are inexorably linked.

Some of that remittance money coming into Mexico is meant to pay off debt, but much of it is used to keep family members here afloat.

News this week of companies looking to “nearshore” by moving their operations to Mexico is welcome. But as I read through the articles, there’s no indication of how much workers will be paid, and it’s hard to be optimistic: it’s no secret that a big part of Mexico’s attraction as a hub for manufacturing is the potential to save so much in labor costs on workers used to accepting much less than their counterparts in the U.S.

What would happen if the minimum wage were raised to be enough to afford the complete canasta básica for a family of four? For informal workers, it probably wouldn’t mean much given that labor laws have trouble touching the informal economy anyway, but what difference would it make to formal employees?

Yes, it might increase inflation, though I’ve always suspected that inflation is often just as much due to those who already receive the majority of a company’s profits protecting and increasing their own salaries above all else — and raising costs for everyone else in order to do so. Taking a pay cut for the greater good hasn’t been in fashion for a very long time.

Still, let’s accept and cheer on small, incremental steps and work hard for bigger, more dramatic ones that allow everyone, not just the financially comfortable, to reach their potentials.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com

Guadalupe’s pilgrims an annual logistical challenge for the capital

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Our Lady of Guadalupe pilgrim completing a manda, a promise to walk on her knees to the Virgin's shrine in Mexico City
Guadalupe pilgrim completing a manda, or promise, to the Virgin to make the approach to the basilica on her knees. Family members place cardboard to help ease her suffering.(Photo: Thayne Tuason/Creative Commons)

The pilgrims’ focus is a small hill on the northern edge of Mexico City called Tepeyac. Once a year, millions of them travel from all over Mexico (and other countries) to thank Our Lady of Guadalupe for favors granted, to ask for a miracle, or simply to pay homage to the dark-skinned version of the Virgin Mary in her home, the Guadalupe Basilica.

Originally dedicated to Mesoamerican mother goddess Tonantzin, this site is consecrated by the Catholic Church to the Guadalupe Virgin, the patron saint of Mexico, who’s said to have appeared there in 1531.

Her importance to millions here cannot be overstated: even not-particularly-devout Mexicans are guadalupanos

Our Lady of Guadalupe is said to have appeared to an indigenous convert named Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin in 1531 — 10 years after the fall of Tenochtitlan — as a conquered Mexico struggled to adapt to the new Spanish order. 

Virgin of Guadalupe
The Virgin of Guadalupe is a dark-skinned version of the Virgin Mary that the Catholic faithful believe appeared four times to an indigenous convert in Mexico City in 1531.

Over the centuries, the shrine at Tepeyac has brought colonial rulers,  the French-installed emperor Maximilian I and, twice in the 20th century, Pope John Paul II. 

The devout come to Tepeyac year-round, but the most special day to be here is Dec. 12th, the anniversary of her fourth and final appearance to Juan Diego — the appearance that finally convinced Church authorities to believe his story that the Virgin wanted a shrine built in her honor.

Starting weeks before the Dec. 12, groups of pilgrims arrive in the city. By the evening of the 11th, they are pouring into the basilica grounds and the blocks that surround the complex.

Their main destination is the new basilica, a modern church completed in 1976. By the 1950s, it was clear that the 18th-century church built on the exact spot of her appearance could no longer serve its purpose, as its foundations were sinking. The new basilica has been accepted because it houses Guadalupe’s most sacred relic, Juan Diego’s cloak, on which her image appears.

"The Miracle of the Roses" depicting miracle of Our Lady of Guadalupe's image appearing on St. Juan Diego's cloak
“The Miracle of the Roses,” depicting Juan Diego convincing Spanish religious authorities of the Virgin’s apparition by her image that appeared spontaneously inside his cloak.

According to city authorities, 10 million visitors came to pay homage in 2019. COVID-19 closed access for much of 2020, with no figures available. Limited visitation in 2021 brought 5.7 million.

But Mexico eased masking protocols this year, and the basilica’s rector Salvador Martínez Ávila issued a statement celebrating the “…happy and necessary return of great pilgrimages to sanctuaries…” with the expectation of record numbers

The vast majority of the faithful come in large groups of friends, family and neighbors, with certain protocols associated with the travel. Groups set out from their local parishes after a special mass and blessing.

Although people certainly arrive here by modern transport, the classic pilgrimage is done by walking at least part of the way. Making the journey so physical is a kind of sacrifice and purification.

Practicality, however, often requires modifications, such as using motor vehicles to carry supplies and belongings and to give rest to those who need it, but nevertheless, the vehicles travel at the walkers’ pace. 

This means that pilgrims can spend days or even weeks just getting to Mexico City. These traveling groups may look haphazard, but they have arranged their route with authorities far in advance and use rest stops and camping sites that see pilgrims every year. Locals offer food, drink and other support to pilgrims arriving at stops.

Crowds camped out in front of the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica
Crowds, including campers, in front of the Basilica. (Photo: CDMX Civil Protection)

Vehicles and pedestrians are often decorated with banners, with images of the Virgin and even with announcements of who they are. This is not done only out of pride but to make sure motorists see them.

Road closures for the pilgrims in early December are not uncommon. 

Once in the city, the pilgrims begin a slow takeover of the blocks surrounding the basilica grounds and the main approaches to it — the Calzada de Guadalupe and the Calzada de los Misterios.

Much has been written about people who make the approach to the basilica on their knees. This is called a manda and done only by those who make a special promise to the Virgin. Those who do this are found on this road and on the basilica grounds. 

Mexican indigenous dancers performing at the shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City
Although the feast day is of Catholic origin, indigenous dancers at the Guadalupe basilica complex perform during celebration of the Virgin’s feast day. (Photo: John Oregon/Creative Commons)

By Dec. 12, despite chilly nighttime temperatures, many of the densely populated neighborhoods surrounding the basilica and the calzadas are filled with campers, dancers, vendors and worshippers. All vehicular traffic is shut down. 

The city’s Welcome Pilgrim program provides special public transportation and emergency medical treatment, and it makes arrangements for the inevitable mountains of trash. A large number of police are deployed because, unfortunately, the Basilica area is located in a dangerous part of the city.

Pilgrims like Reyna Esther Martínez of Morelos says that all the discomforts are forgotten once one enters the large basilica atrium. Here, she says, you are in the company of a throng of faithful who share the marvel of being in the presence of the Virgin, passing under the original cloak and “…feeling her eyes gaze down upon you.”

The excitement begins to build at nightfall on Dec. 11, with dancing and hymns. The celebrations officially begin at midnight, with the singing of “Las Mañanitas,” — Mexico’s birthday song — since it is Guadalupe’s “birthday.”

PIlgrim heading to Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica
Pilgrim on the Calzada de Guadalupe avenue. Some make the trek on bicycle and even horseback. (Photo: Thayne Tuason/Creative Commons)

For the next 24 hours, there are nonstop masses, fireworks, dancing and more. Thousands pass through the basilica to get a glimpse of the cloak, with an electric sidewalk installed underneath it to prevent backlogs.

Other highlights include a 2 a.m. mass for concheros (people who recreate a Mexica dance) and one at noon dedicated to the roses said to have fallen from Juan Diego’s cloak when he revealed Guadalupe’s image. The crowds stay throughout the day, only beginning to thin out as the 12th comes to an end. 

It may be difficult for a nonbeliever to understand why people go to such lengths to participate, but to clarify, one young pilgrim says, “You have to understand. She is our Mother. In Mexico, our mother means everything.” 

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.