Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Envelopes with US $35,000 in cash spoil plans for a quiet though lavish wedding

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Humphrey and Nieto
Humphrey and Nieto wanted a quiet wedding but it didn't quite turn out that way.

One of the federal government’s leading anti-corruption crusaders might have thought he could have avoided the media spotlight by getting married in Guatemala rather than at home.

But he apparently didn’t count on one of his high-profile guests losing US $35,000 because he didn’t declare it upon arrival at the Guatemala City airport and another losing her job because she flew into the country on a private jet.

Santiago Nieto, head of the government’s Financial Intelligence Unit (UIF), wed Carla Humphrey, a National Electoral Institute councilor, in Antigua, Guatemala, on Saturday.

According to a report by the newspaper Reforma, the reception that followed a civil ceremony on Saturday night was an exuberant and lavish affair, with more than 300 guests toasting the newlyweds with Moët & Chandon champagne and chowing down on gourmet dishes before hitting the dance floor to dance – and drink – the night away.

The news website Infobae reported that the bride and groom decided to get married in Guatemala out of fear that a wedding in Mexico could have been targeted by the Jalisco New Generation Cartel. But there were more topical things on guests’ minds as they let their hair down in Guatemala’s premier tourist destination.

A hot topic of conversation at the reception, held at an exclusive five star hotel, was the detention for five hours on Friday of several guests who flew into La Aurora International Airport on a private jet.

Reforma reported that Paola Félix Díaz, the now-former Mexico City tourism minister, Juan Francisco Ealy, general director of the El Universal newspaper, and Alejandro Gou, a theater producer who produced the recent Day of the Dead parade in Mexico City, were among the guests detained after seven envelopes stuffed with US $35,000 in cash that hadn’t been declared were found by police in a suitcase.

The money, which apparently belonged to Ealy, was confiscated in accordance with anti-money laundering laws. Nieto and Humphrey’s wedding guests were eventually released so they could travel the approximately 40 kilometers to Antigua.

According to the newspaper El País, which obtained access to a Guatemalan police document, the owner of the suitcase in which the cash was held was Erika Telich, Ealy’s personal assistant. Telich told police that the money belonged to her boss and that he took it to Guatemala because he planned to use it to pay for medical expenses in Los Angeles, where he intended to travel on Monday after the wedding. Ealy apparently had appointments to consult with medical experts in California – seemingly suspicious specialists with a predilection for hard cold cash transported clandestinely across international borders.

Paola Félix, meanwhile, arguably suffered a bigger loss, tendering her resignation as she evidently felt her position was no longer tenable.

“I’m in Guatemala at a social event to which I was invited. I traveled on a private flight, it’s false that I have been arrested and it’s false that the flight was paid for by a [government] supplier. I haven’t committed any illegal activity but I’ve decided to tender my resignation to [Mexico City Mayor] Claudia Sheinbaum,” she wrote on Twitter on Saturday.

Former tourism minister Paola Félix.
Former tourism minister Paola Félix.

In another Twitter post, she threatened to sue an El Financiero journalist if he didn’t retract his claim that she had been detained.

The Mexico City government subsequently released a statement to announce that it had accepted Félix’s resignation and to emphasize that it considers “the principles of republican austerity” to be fundamental.

At an event on Sunday, Sheinbaum described the former tourism minister as an efficient official but stressed that no members of her government are permitted to travel on private jets. Félix acted like a self-serving official of previous governments at a time when such conduct is no longer tolerated, the mayor said.

Wearing dark glasses, the ex-official returned to Mexico City on a commercial flight on Sunday, Reforma reported.

Among the other high-profile guests at the now infamous Guatemala wedding were Supreme Court Justice Yasmín Esquivel, Campeche Governor Layda Sansores, former Sinaloa governor Quirino Ordaz, former Querétaro governor Francisco Domínguez and former presidential candidate and National Action Party Senator Josefina Vázquez Mota.

Although Nieto is a prominent member of the federal government, no members of President López Obrador’s cabinet were in attendance.

Francisco Gárate, a former National Action Party representative at the National Electoral Institute, raised questions about how the UIF chief and his bride were able to pay for such a sumptuous wedding. He said they are “morally obliged” to disclose where the money for the wedding and travel to Guatemala came from, raising the possibility that government suppliers and/or contractors gave the couple “a little gift” to offset their expenses.

“Both are subject to the Public Servants Responsibilities Law,” Gárate said.

López Obrador on Monday described the events in Guatemala as a “scandalous affair” and advised public officials to act with “moderation and austerity.”

Nieto, who was fired in 2017 from his previous position as special prosecutor for electoral crimes for illegally disclosing details about a corruption investigation involving Brazilian company Odebrecht and former Pemex CEO Emilio Lozoya, has not commented publicly on the weekend’s events, although he did retweet a congratulatory message from a journalist.

Humphrey has also kept mum – the couple presumably has a honeymoon to enjoy, and Nieto might want to cool his heels for a few days, and clear his head, before defending himself against allegations he is more adept at making.

With reports from Reforma, El Universal, El País and Infobae

The once roaring automotive sector falls on hard times

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Car production
Car production in millions of units. financial times

Once a magnet for billions of dollars in investments and rapid job creation, Mexican monthly auto production and sales are languishing at their lowest levels in a decade as the industry is pummeled by the pandemic and semiconductor chip shortages.

The chip problems felt around the world are hitting North America particularly hard, and Mexico is experiencing an outsized impact since it relies on autos for more than 3% of its gross domestic product. Data published on Monday showed that auto production in Latin America’s second-largest economy in October was at its lowest for that month since 2011.

The auto supply chain issues could hit GDP by 1% this year, according to a Bank of México estimate from August, and the problems will probably last well into next year. The uncertainty ahead was compounded by changing U.S. consumer tastes, the transition to electric vehicles and the Mexican government’s energy policy, analysts said.

“We’re in a really tricky moment for the sector,” said Adrián de la Garza, chief economist for Mexico at Citi. “It’s not clear that going forward we’ll see a big rebound in foreign investment.”

That could be a drag on Mexico’s already fragile economic recovery, which contracted suddenly in the third quarter. While the sector has long benefited from North America free trade agreements, an eagerly awaited boom from factories moving from Asia to be closer to the U.S. is yet to materialize.

This year, automakers had hoped to recover fully from COVID-19 shutdowns in 2020. But supply chain bottlenecks caused by persistent waves of the virus, raw material shortages and other factors severely restricted the supply of chips. That has led to stoppages and production cuts across many factories.

“We recovered from the plant closures but then we basically ate up all the raw materials and ran out of components,” said Guido Vildozo, senior market analyst at IHS Markit. “We are at a point where . . . if anything is derailed, then the domino effect is very severe.”

Almost 1 million Mexicans work in the auto industry. Entire regions of the country depend on the factories owned by big names such as General Motors and Nissan and their suppliers. More than 80% of production is for export, mostly to the U.S.

Many emerging markets that made autos were seeing a hit of 0.1 to 0.2% of GDP from the chip problems, said analysts at Capital Economics. But in Mexico, the Czech Republic and Hungary, where the sector comprises a larger chunk of the economy, the overall impact was likely to be greater than 1% of GDP, including spillover effects, they added.

Tatiana Clouthier, Mexico’s economy minister, warned the chip problems were having an impact on the wider economy, and said her team had been working within the U.S.-Mexico High Level Economic Dialogue (HLED) to strengthen the supply chain for chip parts.

“We’re in the HLED working on this, from issues around training and reskilling of people needed for new chip models, to defining which parts each side will do,” she told the Financial Times. “It’s one of our priorities.”

Another reason why Mexico has been hit hard is that it still makes many smaller cars, which have been deprioritized in terms of which chips the companies order. There is also a clear trend among consumers in the U.S., Mexico’s main auto market, away from smaller passenger vehicles toward light trucks. Mexico is rebalancing but cannot go as fast as the changing trends.

“You essentially have a double whammy,” said Vildozo. “You’re constrained on semiconductor availability but then the industry also looks at what generates revenue.”

Local car sales have also plummeted, with the industry having suffered its worst October for sales in a decade, reflecting a lack of inventory. “It’s a complicated moment, without a doubt,” said Jorge Vallejo, president and chief executive of Mitsubishi Motors Mexico.

The short-term chip issues are hurting now, but several longer-term trends are also converging on the horizon.

A recent proposal to nationalize future lithium production and prioritize dirtier, more expensive state energy was unlikely to help Mexico’s case in the global fight for electric vehicle investment, said analysts.

Clouthier said that her team was working with the private sector and academia on the transition to electric vehicles, particularly around battery production.

“We’re doing what we have to do to move forward in a mixed system,” she said.

The shift has the potential to reshape the geography of auto manufacturing around the world, said José Zozaya Délano, executive president of the country’s auto industry body AMIA.

“Mexico . . . has shown over the years it has the capacity and qualified people to make vehicles with advanced technology,” he said. “We’re ready, but we need to do a better job in attracting investment and giving confidence in it.”

© 2021 The Financial Times Ltd. All rights reserved. Please do not copy and paste FT articles and redistribute by email or post to the web.

‘Hugs aren’t working:’ Quintana Roo hotels fear effects of insecurity on tourism

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Tourists take shelter in a Puerto Morelos hotel
Tourists take shelter in a Puerto Morelos hotel after gunfire last Thursday.

Fearing that recent incidents of violence in Quintana Roo will have a negative impact on the tourism industry, business and tourism organizations have called on authorities to ramp up security in the Caribbean coast state.

In the wake of attacks in Puerto Morelos and Tulum that terrorized tourists and left two foreign women dead in the latter destination, three organizations warned that more needs to be done to improve security for residents and tourists.

Asserting that there is a “fierce and ruthless” turf war between competing drug gangs that operate in Quintana Roo – including on the state’s beaches, the Hotel Association of Cancún, Puerto Morelos and Isla Mujeres urged municipal, state and federal authorities to carry out “firm and forceful actions” to combat insecurity in tourism destinations.

Association official Jesús Almaguer Salazar said the presence of federal security forces needs to be bolstered to deter violence.

“We appeal to the good will of the president. The navy has shown that it can control these kinds of situations,” he said. “… The presence of an elite navy corps in the state that supports [local] authorities would be significant.”

Abelardo Vara, a hotel owner and former president of the Cancún hotel association, claimed that the federal government’s so-called abrazos, no balazos (hugs, not bullets) security approach – which favors addressing the root causes of violence over combating it with force – has failed and criminal groups have been allowed to flourish.

“It’s out of hand. The hugs haven’t worked,” he said. “Being honest, they haven’t allocated sufficient resources to control insecurity,” Vara added. “… Every day you find [dead] people in bags, dismembered people.”

The Caribbean Business Coordinating Council (CCEC) also called for security to be bolstered in Quintana Roo. It warned that incidents such as the shooting on a Puerto Morelos beach last Thursday that left two presumed drug dealers dead and the attack in a Tulum restaurant/bar late last month that claimed the lives of a a German woman and an Indian woman could cause people to cancel their plans to travel to the Riviera Maya. It is an outcome that would undermine the region’s recovery from the sharp pandemic-induced downturn.

The CCEC urged all levels of government to work together with citizens’ groups on a joint strategy to combat the criminal groups that “do so much damage to our organization.”

The executive president of the Quintana Roo Vacation Clubs Association also said that coordination between municipal, state and federal authorities is needed to effectively tackle the crime problem but emphasized that the support of the army and navy is paramount.

Miriam Cortés Franco described security as the most sensitive issue for the tourism sector, adding that her organization has fielded numerous calls from people asking whether Quintana Roo is a safe place to visit.

She noted that a new military base – inaugurated by former president Enrique Peña Nieto in late 2018 – was built just north of Cancún, but lamented that it hasn’t been used since 2019 because the government redeployed troops to other parts of the country to stem the flow of migrants.

Cortés said that tourism destinations in Quintana Roo are very attractive to criminal groups, which are often involved in extortion in addition to drug trafficking and street-level dealing. For that reason, greater federal support is needed to combat crime, she said.

Quintana Roo was the 18th most violent state among the 32 federal entities in the first nine months of the year with 495 homicides, according to federal data.

According to the state Security Ministry, at least six criminal groups operate in the Riviera Maya, a coastal region that includes Cancún, Playa del Carmen and Tulum. They include the Jalisco New Generation Cartel, the Sinaloa Cartel and the Old School Zetas.

With reports from Reforma and El Economista 

It’s time for Mexico to kick its fossil fuel addiction

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Mexico’s government has swept aside the private renewable energy industry it began to support and is returning to it's familiar fossil fuel habit.
Mexico’s government has swept aside the private renewable energy industry it began to support and is returning to its familiar fossil fuel habit.

Like most people, I want to be healthy. I want my body to last, and I want it to be as strong as it can be for as long as it can be. And yes, I want to conserve my nice figure and keep being pretty too.

It’s not a rare goal; most people want these things. Yet, in our modern societies, these are much trickier goals to reach than they might have been for our ancestors before the agricultural revolution, simply because we have so many things within our reach that we both love and are horrible for us.

We’re addicted to a lot of things, both as individuals and as a society, things that doom us. As a species, delayed gratification is no shining feature for us.

Cognitive dissonance sure is, though. So we continue along on our merry way, eating pure sugar and fat at regular intervals, staring at our screens for hours at a time, sleeping in after a long night of mindless scrolling or streaming instead of getting up for a jog.

We know these things aren’t healthy, but they’re so hard to kick. We’re creatures of habit, and nothing ever seems as good of an idea as doing what we usually do at the usual times. Today is never a good day to change; tomorrow is always a much better choice.

It’s only when these habits catch up to us — when our teeth are stained and cavity-ridden, when our pants don’t fit anymore, when we start suffering from insomnia and headaches and seem to catch every little virus that might float by — only then, that we take notice and think about changing. Because it’s not usually until we feel physically bad that we realize what slaves to our bodies’ biological states we are: we don’t even notice our good health when we’ve got it.

But cut a pinkie finger and we’re suddenly laser-focused on how many things we need that pinkie finger for.

The reality is that if you’re feeling terrible, or even mildly not great, it’s hard to be successful and reach your full potential in most areas. This is true for us as individuals, and it’s true for us as a society.

It’s so depressing that we’ve basically got no choice other than to — fill this part in with whatever harmful behavior is your go-to; in my case, it’s “eat this entire box of donuts until I feel so full that it’s all I can focus on” — to numb the pain. But, especially after an isolating pandemic that may or may not be over soon, this is how many of us live now.

And like most people, it’s difficult — sometimes it feels downright impossible, in fact — to do what we know we need to do to stay healthy. We’re addicted to the things that are bad for us.

And that’s the only way I’m able to relate to a situation that, to me, seems counterproductive, counterintuitive, and all-around illogical: Mexico (and most other countries, for that matter) is addicted to oil, and it’s being incredibly defiant about it.

We know where this path leads, though, don’t we? President López Obrador’s greatest wishes, far from what my socialist and justice-loving sensibilities had hoped for, seem to be to ensure that Mexico stays dependent on oil and to protect the state oil company Pemex and the state electricity provider, the Federal Electricity Commission, at all costs as if they are misunderstood, bullied victims.

But we know that burning oil for fuel is bad for us and bad for the planet. We know that someday that oil will run out. And we know that by the time it all happens, every living thing on this planet will be much worse off.

Part of the problem is that the oil is still around, and there’s still a lot of it. We know how to make it work, we’ve already got the infrastructure to keep it working and we can get a lot of money for it; Mexico’s economy and energy infrastructure is still more dependent on oil than on any other resource.

And like serial dieters suddenly abandoning their good habits in the face of overpowering cravings for pizza, ice cream and soda after a few weeks of “being good,” Mexico’s government has swept aside the private renewable energy industry it began to support in favor of diving right back into that sleek, black pool that it already knows and loves. (“Ah, that really hits the spot. Just for today, we swear. Tomorrow or next week or next month we’ll be good again.”)

But a you-only-live-once philosophy is not good national or international environmental policy, and indulging ourselves is much too easily confused for “self-care” these days.

We know that overeating and smoking will lead to diabetes, heart disease and lung cancer. We know that too much screen time will lead to depression and languishing. We know that polluting the Earth with fossil fuels will bring about environmental chaos, frequent disasters and the likely demise of us and everything around us.

As Greta Thunberg has told the world, “I don’t want you to be hopeful. I want you to panic.” We’ve got about 6 1/2 years before we get to the point of no return, when global temperatures rise to the point that spells inevitable and irreversible disaster.

But it’s all so hard to quit. We seem to be on an uncontrollable oil binge right now. By the time we’re done, it might be too late.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.

Salsa secrets: turn humdrum store-bought salsa into something fresh and fabulous

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salsa
Doctoring up a base of store-bought salsas is easy and convenient, and there’s no reason not to.

I’ve been in a bit of a rut in the kitchen lately, making the same things over and over. Even the simplest change — like making a fresh salsa to have with grilled fish or chicken — has seemed like too much work, and I’m such a “purist” that I never buy canned or pre-made salsas. Well, that’s all about to change.

It’s easy to doctor up store-bought salsas, and there’s no reason not to. (Where I came up with that random parameter I don’t know.)

The spicy-sweet kick of salsa works on just about anything: omelets and egg dishes; grilled meats of all kinds; baked potatoes; added to pasta sauces, stews or soups; mixed into ground beef for burgers; as a topping for fish; or as a marinade. And starting with a ready-made base of whatever kind of store-bought salsa means you’re more than halfway done before you even start.

What we want to do is enhance the flavor and bring back the bright zing of fresh ingredients. Canned or jarred salsa can’t help that it tastes the way it does; the high heat necessary for processing and preserving it strips the fresh ingredients of, well, their fresh taste.

The easiest fix is to add fresh lime juice and a handful of minced fresh cilantro; go one step further and add some chopped tomato, onion or cucumber and you change the texture as well as the flavor. The citrus (or a little vinegar) also provides an acidic balance to the other ingredients.

salsa
Feeling adventurous? Add fruits like pineapple or jicama or maybe some kernels of corn.

A bit more complicated — but well worth the effort — is to add something roasted or grilled. This doesn’t have to be complicated; even a single jalapeño, poblano, bell or serrano pepper, held over a gas flame and charred till blackened, will enhance the flavor of any salsa immensely. (Place charred pepper in a bowl covered with plastic, let it steam for a few minutes, peel off the skin, remove seeds and ribs and chop.)

Feeling adventurous? Do the same thing with an ear of corn and add those roasted kernels to a bean- or tomato-based salsa and watch the magic happen.

Adding a small pinch of ground dried spices like cinnamon, coriander, cumin or even Mexican oregano can tweak tomato-, fruit- and bean-based salsas. This is also good with salsas that are heavy on the dried chiles.

Adding some finely chopped fresh fruits like mango, pineapple or papaya can change everything about a salsa in a good way. Be careful not to add too much, or it’ll taste more like curry than salsa!

It’s hard to imagine who “invented” salsa and when. The first recorded reference is from a Franciscan missionary in the early 1500s who wrote about seeing a ground-up mixture of “chile peppers, tomatoes and seeds” poured over meat. (Note that onions, lime and cilantro — all mainstays of more modern-day salsas — are not mentioned.)

You’ll have to experiment with these ideas; every store-bought salsa will be different, and the amounts and types of ingredients you add will yield varying results. Taste first, noticing on your tongue if the overriding taste is sour, hot or sweet.

Some will be hot enough as they are; others will be able to hold more spice or sweet. Just keep tasting as you go. Let me know in the comments what you come up with. And in case you feel inspired to start from scratch, here are some classic salsa recipes:

Charred Salsa Verde

  • 1½ lbs. tomatillos, husks removed, split in half (about 10 medium)
  • 1 medium white onion, halved
  • 2–4 serrano or jalapeño chiles, seeds and ribs removed, halved
  • 15 sprigs cilantro
  • 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
  • Salt

In a broiler or on a comal, roast tomatillos, onion and chiles until darkly charred and blackened on top and the tomatillos are completely tender, 6–12 minutes. Transfer vegetables and their juice to blender or food processor. Add half the cilantro. Pulse to a rough purée.

Heat oil in medium saucepan over high heat. Pour salsa into hot oil all at once (it will steam and sputter). Immediately stir and cook until salsa is darkened and thick enough to coat back of spoon, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Mince remaining cilantro; stir into salsa. Season with salt. Let cool; serve. Refrigerate up to 5 days. — seriouseats.com

salsa
Change up your chips and dip with this salsa made with deep-red smoky morita chiles.

Chile Morita Salsa

This is a deep-red, smoky and delicious salsa.

  • 2 dried chile moritas OR dried chipotles
  • 1 lb. tomatillos, husks removed
  • 1 clove garlic, unpeeled and cut in half
  • Salt

Cook chiles on a comal or in a hot, dry cast-iron skillet until they inflate and pop (about two minutes). Pour enough water over the chiles to cover. (Transfer to bowl if using a comal.) Let sit 30 minutes to soften.

Char tomatillos in a skillet until they blister and blacken. Transfer to blender or food processor; add garlic, chiles and a pinch of salt. Purée until smooth.

Pineapple-Jicama Salsa

  • 1½ cups finely chopped fresh pineapple
  • 1 cup finely diced peeled jicama
  • ½ cup finely diced red bell pepper
  • ½ cup minced red onion
  • 1 tsp. minced fresh ginger
  • 1 Tbsp. lime juice
  • 2 Tbsp. minced cilantro
  • Pinch salt

Combine all ingredients. Let rest for an hour to blend flavors.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Instagram at @thejanetblaser.

Should the ‘gringo village’ of Ajijic, Jalisco, have been designated a Magical Town?

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Ajijic, Jalisco
Set on the shore of Lake Chapala, the town of Ajijic is a popular destination for international retirees. (Somniphobiac/Creative Commons)

So what exactly is a Pueblo Mágico (Magical Town) in Mexico nowadays?

In 2001, the federal government began a wildly successful program to promote quaint historic towns as weekend getaways. What started as a handful of them near Mexico City has grown to 132 in 20 years.

But not without controversy.

In December 2020, the expat enclave of Ajijic, Jalisco, received the coveted designation, but does it deserve to be ranked with the likes of Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, and San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas?

Two main issues exist with the designation: the first is that Ajijic is not a stereotypical Mexican town with centuries-old architecture dominating the center. Instead, what stands out is its cosmopolitan atmosphere and a very visible foreign population that has transformed it considerably.

Ajijic, Jalisco
Main plaza with one of the many public artworks in town. Alejandro Linares García

There are only three buildings in town with historic significance; the rest were demolished long ago as development filled Ajijic with 78 hotels, 136 restaurants and bars serving contemporary Mexican and international cuisines, art galleries and second homes. All this obscures that the town was officially founded in 1531 and was a fishing village for far longer than that.

Ajijic is one of many small towns in the area with gorgeous views of  Lake Chapala. Indeed, the lakeside pier and the colorful main square are its main attractions, especially with weekenders from nearby Guadalajara.

Mostly American snowbirds and others have been attracted to move to the area’s near-perfect climate since the 1940s. The Ministry of Tourism estimated before the pandemic that as many as 20,000 foreigners currently make the town their home at least part of the year. These residents, including a significant number of artists, drive much of the cultural scene here, sponsoring the many public murals. They have also repaired and improved a number of public structures and spaces.

As late as 2012, researcher Vair Avota said, “People were saying that Ajijic would never become a Pueblo Mágico no matter how hard they tried and how good it might be — that as a ‘gringo village’ it has been way too transformed.”

Famous last words.

The second issue with the designation of Ajijic as a Pueblo Mágico is that transportation and other infrastructure are nowhere near adequate to handle the number of visitors the town receives now, never mind whatever new influx the designation might bring in the future.

Ajijic, Jalisco
One of the many murals that grace private homes all over Ajijic. Alejandro Linares García

Ajijic sits on a small strip of land wedged between Chupinaya Mountain and Lake Chapala. This fact causes bottlenecks in the town’s center; residents complain about traffic even during the low season.

Growth has taken a toll on the mountain, with new lake-view homes being built ever higher. This was a principal cause of recent flooding in the town proper — because vegetation had been stripped away for development.

Overall infrastructure here is poor, with no updated planning documents since 2011. There is a general lack of regulation. Despite the town having a wealthy population, there are still residents who live without basic city services.

The naming of Ajijic as a Pueblo Mágico came as something of a surprise to residents as the effort was driven entirely by the outgoing mayoral administration with no input from the community.

These authorities succeeded because the requirements for designation have been changed over the years.

Originally, towns had to have qualities like architecture, history and visible manifestations of historic culture, along with specific requirements for tourist and other infrastructure. According to Fernando Mendoza, founding president of the National Coordination of Pueblos Mágicos Committees, those requirements were necessary at first to consolidate the brand.

Ajijic, Jalisco
Ajijic’s main plaza. Somniphobiac/Creative Commons

The first changes to the requirements came after five years, when infrastructure criteria were relaxed in order to allow more towns to get the designation. About seven years ago, requirements were limited further, including those related to architecture and other obvious attractions, as the program became a “social development through tourism” program.

According to Mendoza, the formerly strict requirements favored towns that already had tourism and the resources to pave and widen roads, rehabilitate buildings, bury electrical lines and do other improvements. This left out more marginalized communities from consideration.

Needless to say, marginalized does not really describe most of Ajijic, filled with second homes and retirees with the money and time to spend on community improvement projects. Interestingly enough, it is this international community that is part of the official rationale for making Ajijic a Pueblo Mágico, says Greg Custer of the Lake Chapala Society, the oldest operating organization for expats in Mexico.

You would think that having a prominent foreign population would work against designation, but Mendoza says that other communities with significant numbers of foreign residents, such as Tepoztlán and Loreto, Baja California Sur, are also Pueblos Mágicos.

For both Mexican and foreign residents, opinions about Pueblo Mágico status are highly mixed: those highly in favor of the designation seem to be business owners, although resident John Sillyards says that many of the local artists “are thrilled.”

Resident Daniel Houck worries that several foreign residents are not aware of the potential ramifications. Many residents and others worry that the inclusion of towns like Ajijic devalues the brand and means that the approval process is now all about politics.

But like it or not, Custer notes, Ajijic is now a Pueblo Mágico. For him, what is important now is to decide how the community deals with the designation.

One immediate challenge is to get tourists to visit more than just the pier and the main square, he said. The town needs to diversify its attractions into more parts of town in order to ease traffic and get the benefits of Magical Town status to more areas.

Mendoza agrees that community involvement is the only way to make the Pueblo Mágico designation beneficial. A citizens’ committee to address the coming challenges has been formed, and only time will tell if Ajijic will become a “successful” Magical Town or not.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Steady tax and a risky gamble: this week at AMLO’s press conferences

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Labor Minister Alcalde
Labor Minister Alcalde speaks about the upcoming vote by Pemex workers to elect a new union boss.

As a young man, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador learned a brutal lesson about power and responsibility.

In 1969, when he was 15 years old, his younger brother, José Ramón López Obrador, was killed by a gunshot to the head. His death is shrouded in mystery. In a 2018 book, journalist Jorge Zepeda Patterson said José Ramón took the pistol to play with it, but it fell to the ground and fired.

However, newspaper reports published at the time implied young AMLO’s culpability. In 2000, the National Action Party’s Diego Fernández de Cevallos accused him of murder in a live debate.

No doubt, José Ramón was on AMLO’s mind on Tuesday, when Mexico observed the Day of the Dead.

Monday

The president took the first two days of the week to reflect during the Day of the Dead holidays, meaning no morning news conferences. Mexicans, especially in indigenous communities, take the first two days of November to honor their ancestors and lost loved ones.

Death is a tricky thing to avoid wherever you are, but in Mexico it is even harder. The cultural motif invades its art, songs, and covers most of its news cycle.

La Llorona, or the weeping woman, is but one popular example. In one version of the story, the mythological character is a beautiful woman named Xóchitl who marries a rich man. She has two children, but one day sees her husband with another woman. In a fit of blind rage, she drowns their children in a river, which she immediately regrets. Consumed by guilt, she drowns herself but is unable to enter the afterlife, and remains on Earth. Now, she roams the world searching for her children.

Tuesday

Octavio Paz, in his 1950 essay The Labyrinth of Solitude argued for the wisdom of the distinct conception of death, best represented by the Day of the Dead holidays, and derided the superficial alternative.

“Modern death does not have any significance that transcends it, or that refers to other values.  It is rarely anything more than the inevitable conclusion of a natural process.  In a world of facts, death is merely one more fact … The cult of life, if it really is deep and total, is also the cult of death. Both are inseparable. A civilization that denies death ends up denying life.” 

Deputy Finance Minister Victoria Rodríguez
Deputy Finance Minister Victoria Rodríguez gives a report on federal transfers on Thursday.

Wednesday 

“Good morning. Long time no see. Ánimo, ánimo,” said the Tabascan to open the press conference, using the Spanish word for spirit to enliven the room.

Media lies exponent Elizabeth García Vilchis responded to his call. She confirmed that Mexican airlines’ commitment to the new Felipe Ángeles airport and a fall in their share prices was a spurious correlation: the drop was instead related to COVID-19. A corruption study by the World Justice Project which placed Mexico in the bottom 135 of 139 countries was unreliable, she added: “It is financed by a U.S. organization and the specialists consulted are essentially opponents of the government.”

News website La Silla Rota accused AMLO of paying journalists 200,000 pesos to ask the right questions. “You [the journalists] have not requested it and we don’t give out envelopes. There are no bribes anymore,” the president responded.

Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez addressed violence against women. Rape had gone up 28.7% in annual terms, while September saw a 63% fall in femicides compared to August, she said. 

The president confirmed that two migrants killed in Pijijiapan, Chiapas, on Sunday were shot by National Guard officers. “There are other ways to detain people who are breaking the law,” he conceded, thankfully. The some 2,500-strong migrant caravan arrived at the Pijijiapan two days after the shooting.

Chiapas returned to the conference some minutes later. Journalist Fredy López Arévalo was assassinated in the southern state; another journalist played a recording of his widow, who addressed AMLO directly: “Mr. President, I want to tell you that my husband believed in you … he did not miss a morning conference and my daily routine was to pass him his coffee so that he would be with you until the end, to start his day.

“They killed my husband in the most cowardly way, in the dark and from behind. He did not deserve that, he was an excellent father, he was an excellent friend, he was an excellent companion and, in truth, he believed in you, and [believed] that things can improve.” 

Thursday 

What was AMLO’s view on the 15% global corporate tax agreed by G20 countries, which included Mexico, on October 30?

“There is a monstrous inequality in the world and the United Nations has to act. I’m going to talk about that next Tuesday [at the UN summit], because that’s where all the problems originate,” he said.

The president added that his pandemic tax strategy, to not provide tax breaks to big companies, proved effective. “When the pandemic came … they pressured me. They suggested that we had to contract debt and we had to — I remember the proposal well — decree that large corporations weren’t going to pay taxes for a while to get them back on their feet. I said, ‘No, no, no. We are going to apply another formula.'” 

lopez obrador
It was a cool morning Friday and the president was dressed for the weather.

On corruption, the president referred back to Odebrecht, the corrupt Brazilian construction company, to illustrate a justice problem. “It was very unfortunate that in the case of Odebrecht, corrupt officials were punished in all countries except in Mexico. The matter was covered up. I remember that the transparency institute decided at one time to keep Odebrecht’s file under wraps,” he said. 

Friday

“It’s getting cold,” the president said, as he opened the conference wearing a thick coat.

Elections for the Pemex union were coming up, and Labor Minister Luisa Alcalde was present to inform. “For the first time [Pemex workers] are going to elect their general secretary,” she said, adding that 89,000 workers were set to take part in the democratic exercise through electronic voting.

Later in the conference, AMLO pledged to retire not only if he lost the vote but if he lost and voter turnout did not reach the legally binding level of 40%.

“I’ll leave … even if I do not get 40% [turnout], because how am I going to govern without the support of the people? What can I do without the support of the people? How do I confront the mafia of power without the people?”

The weekend beckoned, and it would see the president in three states. Refineries were the common thread in Salamanca, Guanajuato; Tula, Hidalgo; and Madero, Tamaulipas.

Mexico News Daily

Indigenous families in medical crisis find a second home in Casa Huichol

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Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
A happy face in one of Casa Huichol’s three dormitories.

Before nurse Rocio Echevarría founded Casa Huichol in Guadalajara to shelter members of Jalisco’s Wixáritari who had family in the public hospital, there was usually one option available to the hospitalized person’s loved ones.

Sleep on the street behind the hospital building.

But for the last 38 years, members of this indigenous group of the Sierra Madre Occidental, more well-known as the Huichol, have found lodging and food here, thanks to Echevarría.

The name Huichol, by the way, means “one who runs away,” while Wixárika means “person with a big heart who loves knowledge.” (The plural is Wixáritari.) It’s easy to see which name these people prefer; Huichol has been used for so many years, however, that it’s hard to eliminate it completely.

Echevarría’s story with the Wixáritari began in 1970, when she graduated from university as a nurse.

“At that time,” she told me, “the president of Mexico, Luis Echeverría, organized a conference in which he said that no previous government had ever opened a door to the indigenous people of Mexico but that now university graduates in the healthcare field from all over the country could carry out their servicio social in native communities.” Servicio social is the two years of required volunteer service that students must give to the nation.

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
Rocío Echevarría ran health centers in remote Wixárika villages for 10 years before founding Casa Huichol.

Previous to 1970, she told me, the indigenous communities had been excluded from rights common to all other Mexicans: to education, to healthcare and to agricultural and cattle-raising programs. They had been considered separate and had been disregarded — and they themselves had made no effort toward integration.

“Those were also the years when women first started attending universities, and I had taken advantage and had become a nurse,” Echevarría said. “And now, along came this chance to get to know the native people of this country, so my mother said, ‘Hey, Rocio, why don’t we go to one of the Huichol missions?’

“Well, at first, I said, ‘No way,’ but then I ended up at the mission of Santa Clara, which is one hour from San Andrés Cohamiata, located 200 kilometers north of Guadalajara in very rugged territory in the middle of nowhere.”

Echevarría immediately fell in love with the Wixáritari and decided that this was exactly where she would work.

“The [federal] Health Ministry, however, said, ‘Hold on a minute! This is a federal project, and you need permission!’ So I had to go to Mexico City, where I told them I’d like to do my social service in the health center of San Andrés Cohamiata. It turned out that they were very surprised because absolutely no one else had shown the slightest interest in working in that isolated place.”

With the blessing of the Health Ministry, she went back to San Andrés Cohamiata for the next six years.

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
Carmela’s husband is in the hospital with a burst tumor. The couple hitchhiked seven hours to reach Guadalajara. Brince Tapia

“It was a very strong experience for me. It changed my whole outlook on health and medicine. I discovered that salud [health] is very, very relative,” she said. “That little town had never had a doctor in its entire history, but everybody was still alive! OK, they had plenty of health problems like fungi, parasites, fleas and lice and lots of ticks. And they suffered from epidemics; influenza would appear, and it would tear through the community. Some would die. But in the end, most of them survived. And there they were!”

Over time, Echevarría grew close to the residents. It was then that she began to know the people who had been taking care of local health problems long before her arrival: the marakames (medicine men, or shamans).

“The marakames have an extraordinary ability to see an infirmity holistically, even if it’s a case of ticks or fleas,” she said. “They help you refocus on your problem, to see it in a wider context so that you can transcend it. If you really know what the problem is, you can resolve it. Observing the marakames at work led me to believe that the majority of diseases are psychosomatic.”

Echevarría believes that her fellow nurses and doctors are missing something that the marakames possess.

“They are psychiatrists and psychologists. They know how to deal with psychic and spiritual problems without making you feel that you’re crazy, without giving you tranquilizers or some drug that saps your energy, keeps you drowsy all day and takes away your will to fight,” she said. “You go to them and say, ‘My husband left me,’ and they show you that you are passing through a bad moment but that you’re not crazy.

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
Living in remote villages, it’s not feasible for families to return to Guadalajara for medical follow-ups, so discharged patients stay here to recuperate or do rehab.

“The marakames taught me that the most important thing … is that I need to be well-centered, perfectly well-centered, in my totality. Really, I wish that we had people like them in [the medical] profession. The marakame is like an M.D., a priest and a psychiatrist all rolled into one — and he’s a member of your community, a neighbor whom you know.”

Another discovery she made during her 10 years of work in remote Wixárika villages related to the traditional indigenous diet.

“Today we have severe health problems that the COVID pandemic is pointing out to us,” she said. “All the people who have died of COVID were already damaged. Their bodies were not fortified because we have replaced alimentación [nutrition], with comida [food].

“But the Wixáritari still have their coamiles [plots of land where corn, beans and squash grow together]. They plant their corn — real corn, not genetically modified corn — and they eat their beans, wild fruits, camotes del cerro [mountain yams] and mushrooms in the rainy season. And all these foods are really nutritious.”

Echevarría says that she has come to the conclusion that “the really healthy person is the person who is equilibrado — balanced and centered. You can solve your problems, and once you do, your mind can rest, your body can rest,” she said.

“We eat a lot,” she added, “but very little of it is healthy. They [the Wixáritari] eat little but with complete nutrients.”

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
A deer covered with chaquira (beads). It is said that the deer led the Wixáritari to their sacred peyote.

Casa Huichol has three dormitories with 36 beds. “Here, we receive all the people that the Health Ministry sends to Guadalajara for surgery, for hemodialysis, for cancer treatment,” she said, “and we receive them free of charge.”

Besides providing shelter and food for family members who accompany a patient, Casa Huichol also accommodates people who are released from the hospital.

“Very frequently, the patient is told to come back in a week or in 15 days for a checkup,” she said. “So here is where that person stays until they are free to go back to their village. They eat here, they bathe here, they wash their clothes. From day to day, Casa Huichol typically cares for 25 or 30 persons.”

Running the operation keeps Echevarría on her toes.

“It’s a dance,” she said. “At any moment, some people are leaving, others are arriving and some are long-term residents — children who are undergoing rehabilitation, for example. Some of them might stay here for five years easily.”

“If it weren’t for us,” she explained, “they wouldn’t go through with the entire rehabilitation program and they would end up being a burden to their family and their community. Those recuperating from cancer are also long-term. These people need to follow their complete treatment protocol, which can be extensive. Since they don’t have a place to live in Guadalajara, this becomes their home.”

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
Marina Torres with a few of the many handicrafts for sale at the center’s gift shop.

Everything that goes on at Casa Huichol depends either on the sale of Wixárika arts and crafts or on donations. Fortunately, the Casa De Salud Huichol website has big buttons you can easily click on (even if you don’t speak Spanish), should you like to help them out. Casa Huichol is also on Facebook, the easiest place to find out which craftwork is currently available.

And, yes, they can ship to anywhere in Mexico or elsewhere.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
A morral de chaquira (traditional haversack, decorated with beads) is for sale on Casa Huichol’s Facebook page.

 

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
What you can find on a Wixáritari coamil (a small plot of land): mume (beans), ikú (corn), rutsi (squash) and green tomatillos.

 

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
“And I found this incredible mandala in the gift shop,” says visitor Rodrigo Orozco.

 

Casa Huichol, Guadalajara
A member of the Tateikie, a Wixáritari community in San Andrés Cohamiata, Jalisco, looks over his crops. Brince Tapia

AMLO takes aim at middle class for lack of humility at vaccination sites

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lopez obrador
AMLO plays the role of the angry and ungrateful middle class vaccine recipient.

The middle class should be more grateful to be vaccinated against COVID-19, President López Obrador said Friday in another monologue revealing his antipathy for a large sector of the population.

The president held up the poor as a better example of human nature during his morning press conference.

“Humble people are grateful, are good. They are not know-it-alls; they act with humility. The other day I was saying that when a middle class person gets vaccinated, I’m not generalizing, but they arrive at the vaccination center upset,” the president opined before proceeding to generalize.

“‘How long will it take?’ ‘No, señora, it won’t be long,’” he said, imitating a dialogue between his archetypical angry middle class woman and a harried healthcare worker.

“What vaccine is it? … I don’t want the vaccine where they give me the communist chip,” he continued haughtily, mocking the recipient. “Why did it take so long? … They are obligated to vaccinate us. It’s our money, it’s our taxes.”

The poor, meanwhile, are silent and thankful, he said.

“A humble person, even knowing that it is money from the budget and that it is a government responsibility … goes in silence, gets the vaccine, [and says] ‘Thank you, many thanks.’”

“Hopefully as we move up the social ladder, the economic ladder, we don’t forget humility,” the president concluded, adding that humility is power.

Mexico News Daily

Cartel threatens musicians with violence if they perform at México state fair

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Metepec narco banner
Metepec narco banner: 'Innocent blood will be spilled.'

A drug cartel is attempting to shut down live music performances at a popular fair in the state of México.

On Friday morning, narco banners appeared around the city of Metepec threatening the lives of any musicians who dared to perform at the 2021 Metepec Fair, in a possible case of unpaid extortion.

The banners, signed by the Familia Michoacana, were hung from overpasses and directed at the fair promoter Mario García.

“Urgent message: We inform all the artists who were going to perform in the Metepec Fair not to perform at that venue, to avoid the spilling of innocent blood including theirs … due to the actions of that bum, the businessman Mario García, they are prohibited from performing. Respect our organization and we will respect your lives. Familia Michoacana,” read the banners.

The fair started with a performance by El Komander on October 29 and is scheduled to continue through November 14, with shows by many prominent musicians including La Sonora Dinamita, La Arrolladora Banda El Limón, Christian Nodal, Julión Álvarez and more.

On the opening day, the state government suspended proceedings for several hours due to missing permits and security measures, but eventually allowed the event to proceed.

So far, neither municipal authorities nor the fair organizers have made statements as to whether the fair will be suspended.

The threats follow a Thursday confrontation between police and presumed members of the Familia Michoacana in southern México state. The incident left two officers dead and six injured.

With reports from Reforma and Plana Mayor