The barks echo across the water long before you see them — hundreds of sea lions piled onto the rocky shores of a tiny islet set against a backdrop of pinkish-red volcanic cliffs. Meanwhile, a blue-footed booby, perched on the rocks, performs its clumsy, charming courtship dance. High on the clifftops, a magnificent frigatebird inflates its great scarlet throat pouch like a balloon.
You’d be forgiven for thinking that this is the legendary Galapagos Islands. But this isn’t Ecuador. The island is, in fact, located in our beloved Mexico. As part of our series where we veer off the beaten path and uncover lesser-known secrets of Mexico that rival some of the world’s wonders, we’re bringing you with us to a little-visited island in the Sea of Cortez, off the coast of Baja California: Isla Espíritu Santo.
There’s an incredible feeling that comes from setting foot in a place that feels so utterly untouched. Despite being just a short boat ride from the city of La Paz, this highly protected national park and wildlife sanctuary feels a million miles away from it all. As the number of visitors is restricted, the island remains incredibly pristine and well-preserved.
Galapagos Islands vs. Espíritu Santo
Comparing the Galapagos to Espíritu Santo isn’t as absurd as it sounds; in fact, both islands were born of violent volcanic activity, which gave them dramatic, almost prehistoric landscapes. The Sea of Cortez, famously dubbed “the world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau, is a biodiversity hotspot akin to the Galapagos, a living laboratory of evolution. In recognition of their immense natural value, both regions are celebrated as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The wildlife encounters in both destinations are truly exceptional. While in the Galapagos, you might find yourself face-to-face with a marine iguana or the famous blue-footed boobies, Espíritu Santo offers its own cast of creatures. You can spot blue-footed boobies here too, often seen performing their comical courtship dances on the rocky shores.
The island is also the exclusive home to endemic species like the black jackrabbit and the Espíritu Santo whiptail. Much like the animals in the Galapagos, the wildlife here has little fear of humans, allowing for incredibly intimate and unforgettable interactions.
Why you should visit Espíritu Santo
Here is where Isla Espíritu Santo truly shines as a fantastic alternative to the Galapagos: accessibility and affordability. The Galapagos are extremely remote and famous for the hefty price tag. A trip often involves multiple flights (as you need to fly through mainland Ecuador), a significant national park fee (most foreigners pay US $200 while kids under 12 pay $100), and costly liveaboard cruises. Even budget backpackers who stay at hostels and do island-hopping tours from there will expect to spend at least $200 per day. Ultimately, a Galapagos trip is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that requires extensive planning and a substantial budget.
Espíritu Santo, in contrast, is refreshingly accessible and not too expensive to get to. Its main gateway is La Paz, a coastal city just a two-hour drive from Cabo San Lucas. From La Paz, the island is easily reached by a boat trip that takes about an hour to 90 minutes. Many local tour operators offer day tours for US $100 to $200 per person and include snorkeling gear and lunch on a nearby island.
Highlights of Espíritu Santo
The undisputed highlight of any trip to Espíritu Santo is swimming with sea lions at Los Islotes. These “puppies of the sea” are incredibly inquisitive and will often dart and spiral around you. My daughter, in particular, was overjoyed to see hundreds of sea lion pups swooshing all around us — a few even curiously swam right up to us!
When booking your boat trip, it’s important to do your research and make sure that the tour operator follows ethical practices and local regulations. The great news is that all tour operators in La Paz are certified and regulated by SEMARNAT, Mexico’s Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. Every boat that enters the protected La Paz bay is tracked and monitored. Note that swimming with the sea lions is restricted during their breeding season in the summer months (June through August).
Baja Expeditions comes highly recommended, having operated ecotourism activities in the Sea of Cortez since 1974. They not only run ethical day tours, but also offer an exclusive zero footprint “pop-up” eco-camp on this uninhabited island. You can spend your days kayaking, scuba diving and swimming with whale sharks, and then enjoy the freshest seafood before sleeping under the stars by night. Only campers will get the rare chance to hike around the island with a naturalist (daytrippers aren’t allowed) to learn about the unique flora and perhaps spot a blue-footed booby or two.
Beyond the island
To truly experience Espíritu Santo, you’ll need to use La Paz as your base. I can never understand why everyone flocks to Los Cabos and skips La Paz, just a two-hour drive away, when the coastal city is brimming with water-based activities and rich in authentic Mexican culture. Best of all, you won’t find any tourist crowds here.
Depending on the season, typically from October to April, the bay becomes a gathering place for the largest fish in the world: the whale shark. Sharing the water with these gentle giants is another humbling, awe-inspiring wildlife encounter that rivals anything the Galapagos can offer. In case you’re wondering, it’s entirely safe to swim with whale sharks — these gentle giants are harmless and only feed on krill and small schooling fish.
La Paz is also blessed with picture-perfect strands with powdery sand and calm spearmint water — perfect swimming conditions, especially for the little ones. A short drive from the city will take you to Balandra Bay, a shallow cove that is consistently ranked among the world’s best beaches, and its neighbor, Tecolote Beach, with a more lively atmosphere and beachside restaurants.
Spend your evenings strolling along the city’s famous malecón or boardwalk, especially as the sun sets over the bay, painting the sky in fiery colors. The waterfront is dotted with fantastic sculptures, laidback bars and excellent seafood restaurants where you can savor fresh seafood. I highly recommend grabbing some fresh Baja-style fish tacos at the famous Taco Fish, and top them generously with free condiments like preserved onions and guacamole sauce, then wash them down with delicious craft beer on the rooftop of the waterfront Harkerboard Co.
A more accessible paradise
To wrap it all up, while the Galapagos Islands will forever be an iconic destination, Espíritu Santo provides a similar sense of untamed nature in a more casual and accessible package.
If you are seeking an adventure that delivers awe-inspiring wildlife and unforgettable landscapes without the immense cost and complexity of a Galapagos expedition, then add this island to your Baja California itinerary the next time you’re here. You may just find the paradise you’ve been dreaming of.
Nellie Huang is a self-proclaimed Mexico-holic. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.
