If I’m honest, it’s why I live in the Riviera Maya. The crystal clear Caribbean waters are stunning. So I was delighted when we found these gentle giants off the northern tip of Isla Mujeres. A mere 25 minutes after leaving Cancún, my lifelong dream came true. I found myself staring down at one as it went silently glide past.
The whale shark grounds are easily reachable in small boats, and you can jump right in with them!
The size was astounding.
So, how big are whale sharks?
Bigger than I thought. The first one was the length of our boat. The second one was a little smaller but still breathtakingly impressive.
Staring down through the crystal clear water was beautiful satiny dark skin mottled with white spots. The enormous gaping mouth sucked in everything in its path. My friend next to me sucked in her breath seeing this. But it’s okay, it’s not dangerous, being filter feeders, that’s how they feed.
And did that huge mouth deter me from wanting to jump in? No, not at all. I knew I wasn’t on the menu.
Okay, bear with me while I geek out on fun facts so you know how harmless they are!
All about whale sharks: Do they have teeth? What do whale sharks eat?
Fun whale shark fact time: Whale sharks are harmless. Even though they have 3,000 teeth. Teeny tiny teeth. In fact, they are so tiny they’re not visible, so they do not bite or chew. Whale sharks are filter feeders. That means they filter small animals from the water. Zooplankton and phytoplankton, as well as krill, jellyfish, and tiny crab larvae are favorites. Occasionally, small fish get sucked in too.
A majestic whale shark swimming past the boat.
This is why they are so close to the surface. The warm top layer of water is where the plankton live. With their huge mouths open, this feeding behavior is called ram-filtration. It channels the plankton-filled water into their mouths, where it’s strained. The shark’s gills have a fine mesh called gill rakers, which catch the plankton.
That’s why they’re so great to swim with. They’re close to the surface, so you don’t have to dive. They aren’t predatory, so you’re safe. And best of all, they cruise at a steady speed. It’s quite a fast speed, though, so grab your fins!
Swimming with the whale sharks
I’ll say this, whale sharks swim deceptively fast. I consider myself a good swimmer. I live in Cozumel in the Mexican Caribbean and swim all the time, usually 2-3 km at a time. Plus, I’m ex-Navy and have had to maintain my swimming fitness year-round for years.
I don’t say this to brag. I say this to give you a point of reference. These gentle giants cruise a lot faster than I thought. They seem to glide along effortlessly. But that massive tail sure does give maximum propulsion for little effort.
My friend, who was with me, missed it the first couple of times. By the time she jumped in and started swimming, it was gone. Nothing but tail when she looked up.
Thankfully, I learned from that. I swung my legs over the side of the boat and jumped in as the shark approached. The trick is to start swimming strongly before you hit the surface. Otherwise, it just cruises by while you pop to the surface.
Still, it was a heart-pumping exercise. I had to jump in and swim like an Olympian. I couldn’t keep up that pace for long. But this enabled me to get some beautiful pictures and videos as they glided by. And left me feeling very small as that big tail slowly disappeared in the distance.
How big is a whale shark?
Even small whale sharks are much larger than we are. (Friend of the Sea)
More fun whale shark facts. Whale sharks are the largest fish in existence. Yes, that’s right. A mature 12-meter-long whale shark can weigh eleven tons. And their mouth can be over a meter wide. Let me tell you, up close, it’s breathtaking!
So, when you see more than one close to you, it’s thrilling. Usually, whale sharks are solitary creatures cruising the seas alone. But each year, they gather in this area between Isla Mujeres and Holbox Island to feast in the plankton-rich water.
When is the best time to swim with whale sharks?
From June to September each year is best. The plankton-rich currents from South America reach the Gulf of Mexico. Meeting the warm Caribbean Sea makes a very rich feeding ground for whale sharks.
Is it worth swimming with whale sharks?
As I said at the start, this was on my bucket list. Swimming alongside the largest fish on earth…for me, was priceless. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime kind of adventure you will tell your grandkids about.
Having said that, many of the people on our trip couldn’t keep up. While thrilled at seeing the sharks, they were a little disappointed.
So, my advice is this. Get back in the water before you go. Not like you’re training for an Ironman. No, just to feel comfortable in the water. That way, you will keep up and create a lifelong memory.
Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.
Luisa María Alcalde at her swearing-in as Morena's new party leader, accompanied by Andrés Manuel López Beltrán, Morena's incoming secretary of organization, and Carolina Rangel Gracida, the party's new general secretary. (Luisa María Alcalde/Instagram)
The ruling Morena (National Regeneration Movement) party announced its new leadership following internal elections held on Sunday in Mexico City. Luisa María Alcalde, currently serving as interior minister, was elected unanimously as the new leader of the party founded by President Andrés Manuel López Obrador in 2011. The president’s son, Andrés Manuel López Beltrán, was chosen to be the party’s secretary of organization.
“The people chose continuity and the time of women, [they] chose Claudia Sheinbaum and in Morena, we cannot let them down,” said 37-year-old Alcalde in her speech to the party assembly. “I will not let you down because I know the events, the struggles, the risks, the sorrows and the joys of this national regeneration movement since its founding.”
Sheinbaum warned Morena against becoming a “state party” before she gave up her party membership ahead of her Oct. 1 inauguration as president of Mexico. (Morena Sí/Facebook)
Alcalde, who will assume office for a three-year term on Oct. 1 — the same day as President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum — takes the helm of a powerful party that not only won the presidency in the June 2 elections, but also governs 24 of Mexico’s 32 states and has majorities in both houses of Congress.
Morena has already taken advantage of its legislative power to approve AMLO’s controversial judicial reform bill earlier this month. On Thursday, the lower house, where the ruling party and its allies have a supermajority, also approved another constitutional reform which would put the National Guard under military control. The bill is expected to be discussed in the Senate this week.
At his morning press conference on Monday, AMLO congratulated the party delegates on their selection and described Alcalde as an “extraordinary” and “honest” woman. Prior to her appointment as the country’s youngest-ever interior minister in June 2023, Alcalde had served as labor minister and previously as a federal deputy in Congress.
López Beltrán, the second of AMLO’s four sons, has been active in the party for years and is also a businessman. “We all know that he [AMLO] will continue to be present in this party, with his example and his legacy. Our job … will be to uphold that legacy,” he said in a speech on Sunday, while also affirming that his 70-year-old father will be retiring from political life.
🇲🇽MEXICO— Long-suspected to be a major player behind the scenes & with his closest friends winning lucrative Govt. contracts in the past few years, the son of Mexico’s President was appointed today a top position in his father’s party in what is the birth of a political dynasty. https://t.co/NBhb8uBwhy
Some critics have accused Morena of hypocrisy by awarding a position to López Beltrán since one of its party tenets is to eradicate nepotism. Reforma newspaper correspondent José Díaz Briseño described the Morena election as “the birth of a political dynasty” in a post to X.
Sheinbaum dismissed the allegations of nepotism at a press conference on Monday and said that López Beltrán is a “great organizer” who had the right to put himself forward for the position now that AMLO is on the cusp of retirement.
In Sheinbaum’s speech to the assembly on Sunday, she outlined a 10-point vision for the future of the movement and warned against becoming a “state party,” as she stepped down from Morena to be “president for all Mexicans.”
“… The government of the Republic fulfills its duties for the transformation of the country and the party fulfills its own,” she said.
As repeated sewage flooding has upended lives in Chalco, state authorities have rescued and sheltered more than 100 lost pets. (Rogelio Morales Ponce/Cuartoscuro)
On Sunday, 32 pets rescued and sheltered by local authorities returned to their owners following the flooding in the municipality of Chalco, México state.
“My dog is already 8 years old and has been with me for a long time,” María Alejandra, who lost her pet during the flooding, told the newspaper El Financiero. “I am truly grateful that they [the shelter] gave it back to me. I have no words.”
On Sunday, 32 or the more than 100 animals rescued by Cepanaf were reunited with their owners. (Gobierno Edomex)
Over the course of the Chalco flooding disaster, the State Commission of Natural Parks and Fauna (Cepanaf) rescued 135 pets with and without owners. The commission provided the animals with food and veterinary care for two weeks with the support of animal welfare groups.
All rescued animals received deworming, rabies vaccine and other first-line vaccines. Moreover, authorities provided rations of kibble, wet food and additional dewormer.
“This is the first time that a government carries out something like this, supporting dogs and cats, with or without owners, that were vulnerable due to the floods,” Cepanaf chief Alma Diana Tapia Maya told El Financiero. “It is a dream come true that these little ones were able to return safe and sound to their home. It is a very enriching experience,” she said.
The state government reported that the remaining 66 rescued animals without owners will be given for adoption through Caravans for Animal Welfare, a program developed by Cepanaf.
Why did Chalco flood?
In August, thousands of residents in Chalco lived in dire conditions for over four weeks due to severe sewage flooding triggered by unusual torrential rains. The ongoing disaster led to widespread health concerns, forced evacuations and increasing demands for government intervention.
According to local authorities, the colossal flooding was caused by a huge garbage plug 50 meters wide by 2.4 meters deep in the Solidaridad Storm Drain.
However, Greenpeace México disagrees.
“What we are seeing in Chalco is the result of water and city management that is far from sustainable,” Greenpeace México said in a statement following the floods. “We have been calling [the government] for sustainable management of cities and water for years, and for corporations to be required by law to take responsibility for the plastic pollution they generate,” the statement said. “What have the state and federal governments done?”
On Friday, the neighborhoods of Jacalones and Culturas de México were once again affected when foul-smelling water gushed out of the drainage system and entered homes. The newspaper La Jornada reported that residents are once again struggling to evacuate it.
“This is our reality now,” Ricardo Carreño Marroquín, a resident in Chalco, told La Jornada. “It drizzles briefly, and the water quickly goes up. It is very frustrating to live like this. We are very tired, and the situation is very difficult. We are physically and emotionally exhausted” he stressed.
The ministry developed the new website section in recognition of private sector interest in investing in Mexico. (Shutterstock)
Mexico’s Economy Ministry (SE) this week launched a new section in its DataMéxico platform designed to highlight private investment trends, allowing private sector interests to consult disaggregated lists of public investment announcements.
Users of the platform can find data arranged in a variety of categories, including country of origin of the companies announcing investments, the Mexican state in which the investment is to be made and the economic sector within which the investment is being made.
The data is also broken down by date so that potential investors can conduct detailed analysis of the timing and context of the proposed investments. The new section can be found at economia.gob.mx/datamexico/.
In a social media post, the SE said the new Public Announcements of Foreign Investment section “aims to recognize the private sector’s interest in investing” in Mexico, citing the nearshoring phenomenon and the growing need for companies to increase efficiency in their production chains.
In an attached press bulletin, the SE said it remains committed to providing educational tools that the public can rely on, supplying timely information in a transparent manner as the government strives to consolidate international best practices in Mexico.
On the same day they unveiled the new tool, the SE announced that since January 2023 the private sector has issued 575 investment announcements featuring a sum total of US $170.6 billion.
On the website, visitors can view data relating to economic activity at the national, regional or local level. (DataMéxico)
According to the newspaper La Jornada, Economy Minister Rachel Buenrostro said these announcements reflect investor confidence in Mexico’s economy and its capacity to augment industry at both the local and global levels.
Mexico’s manufacturing sector has attracted the most planned investment (US $86.3 billion), followed by the energy sector (US $24.9 billion) and the transportation sector (US $22.5 billion). These three sectors comprise 78% of the total prospective investments since January 2023.
The data show that U.S. companies lead the way in investing in Mexico, with proposed investments exceeding US $68.5 billion.
In addition, investment announcements from companies in China (US $16.8 billion), Germany (US $12.2 billion), Argentina (US $10.7 billion), Denmark (US $10.2 billion) and France (US $8 billion) represent for Mexico a desirable diversification in the origin of these investments.
Of equal importance is the distribution of the target location of these investments. Although the industrialized northern and central regions of Mexico are the primary destinations for these funds, companies in the west and south are expecting to receive new investments to the tune of US $39 billion.
While projecting that these proposed investments could generate more than 331,000 new jobs, the SE said the above illustrates the confidence in the economic development of previously overlooked regions of Mexico and the talent of its workforce.
These figures bode well for the country’s future as Claudia Sheinbaum prepares to take office on Oct. 1 as Mexico’s next president. Vidal Llerenas, tapped to be Sheinbaum’s deputy economy minister for industry and commerce, said last week that foreign direct investment could increase by US $3-4 billion each year during Sheinbaum’s six-year term.
Two batallions made up of 600 soldiers arrived in Sinaloa on Saturday. (José Betanzos/Cuartoscuro)
The federal government has deployed 600 additional soldiers to the battle-scarred state of Sinaloa where hostility within the Sinaloa Cartel has sparked armed confrontations.
Shootouts and commando attacks have occurred primarily in Culiacán, the state capital, and surrounding towns.
The news magazine Proceso reported that four people were murdered overnight on Friday. Proceso also reported that a firefight between suspected cartel gunmen and the military on Saturday claimed three more lives. Meanwhile, El Sol de Sinaloa reported the discovery of five additional bodies outside an aquatic park in southern Culiacán later on Saturday.
That same afternoon, Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha announced the arrival of two battalions of soldiers.
In a social media post, Rocha said “a total of 600 members of the army have arrived in the state capital to join the active security operation … reinforcing the coordinated strategy between the three levels of government to combat insecurity in the state.”
“An operation was immediately implemented in coordination with security forces [who] managed to evacuate six adults and a minor from the building where the attackers had taken refuge, while they subdued three of the civilian attackers and arrested another.”
The governor declared the situation under control, but urged the public to avoid the neighborhood of Desarrollo Urbano Tres Rios while authorities conducted an investigation.
On Sunday, the Sinaloa Attorney General’s Office acknowledged reports of three murders and three disappearances, according to the news site Aristegui Noticias.
State struggles to keep students in school
When the violence began back on Sept. 9, the 1,846 elementary schools in the cities of Culiacán, Concordia, Elota and Cosalá opted to suspend classes.
A week or so later, the state Education Ministry insisted that the schools reopen their doors, according to El Sol de Sinaloa. On Sept. 17, after touring high schools in Culiacán, Education Minister Catalina Esparza Navarrete lamented the low attendance.
“The schools seem deserted,” she said.
Though schools in Culiacán and many other areas of Sinaloa reopened last week, few parents allowed their children to attend. (File photo)
Esparza said the state would offer training to 1,500 teachers, instructing them how to react when violence threatens their schools. The National Guard has also been deployed to protect more than 1,600 schools in the municipalities of Culiacán, Cósala, Elota and San Ignacio.
One school principal told El Sol de Sinaloa that the 370 Guardsmen and 125 vehicles would not be enough to guarantee student safety at their school.
El Sol de Sinaloa cited three cases, including two shootouts, that occurred in the vicinity of schools between Sept. 9-13. The third incident was the placement of a human head on the grounds of an elementary school.
A Morelet's crocodile was found on the Mexico City Metro in September.
(@DiariodeMorelos/X)
Here are a couple things to remember while waiting for a train in a Mexico City metro station: Don’t step past the yellow line that marks the edge of the platform. And watch out for crocodiles.
Wait … what?
Over the weekend, baby crocodiles were spotted in two separate Mexico City metro stations.
On Saturday night, police responded to reports of a baby crocodile inside a train at the Río de los Remedios station in the eastern outskirts of Mexico City. The creature was found “commuting” inside a container partially filled with water.
After on-site officials confirmed it was a crocodile, they collected the reptile and notified animal rescue personnel.
The baby crocodile was taken to the Animal Vigilance Brigade (BVA) headquarters in the southern borough of Xochimilco where it was examined by a veterinarian.
The following day, passengers in the busy Balderas metro station in downtown Mexico City were surprised to see a little crocodile walking in the drainage canal along the edge of the railway platform.
Passengers notified authorities, who then trapped the reptile and handed it over to BVA agents.
This is not the first time exotic reptiles have been discovered outside their natural habitat in Mexico.
In June, an escapee from a nature park stopped traffic on a busy road in downtown Tampico, Tamaulipas. (Screen capture)
In 2020, two men attempted to carry several small crocodiles on the metro but were arrested. In 2022, a snake was found in the Boulevard Puerto Aéreo metro station in eastern Mexico City.
The authorities are unsure how the baby crocodiles made their way into metro facilities, though the immediate speculation was that they were abandoned by wildlife traffickers.
The BVA disclosed that both reptiles found this weekend are Morelet’s crocodiles, which can grow to 4.5 meters in length.
Though the Morelet’s crocodile is not an endangered species, it has long been threatened by habitat destruction and illegal hunting, particularly because high-quality leather can be made from its hide.
The NHC has said that Hurricane John will cause “large and destructive waves,” as well as potentially “catastrophic, life-threatening flash flooding and mudslides” to the coasts of Chiapas, Oaxaca and southeast Guerrero. (NOAA)
Hurricane John, currently located 160 km southwest of Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, is forecast to rapidly strengthen into a major hurricane, bringing extraordinary rain to the coast of Oaxaca on Monday night through Tuesday morning.
The United States’ National Hurricane Center (NHC) expects John to produce 25 to 50 cm of rain along the Oaxaca coast and southeast Guerrero, with maximum sustained winds of 140 km/h. The NHC urged that “preparations to protect life and property should be rushed to completion,” as the storm is forecast to make landfall near Puerto Escondido in the next 24 hours.
Tropical Storm #John has strengthened into a Hurricane 🌀⚠️
Continued intensification is expected until landfall over the Mexican state of Oaxaca late Tuesday, possibly as a Major Hurricane. pic.twitter.com/oVE3PZGBje
A hurricane warning is in effect for the area between Punta Maldonado, Guerrero, to Bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca. A tropical storm warning is in effect east of Bahías de Huatulco to Salina Cruz, as well as west of Punta Maldonado extending to Acapulco.
Oaxaca civil protection authorities have advised at-risk municipalities to install temporary shelters for residents. Civilians are encouraged to stay alert to official information here.
The rain and wind forecast by state in Mexico’s southwest is as follows:
Oaxaca: Extraordinary rainfall (+250 mm) with wind gusts of 100 to 120 km/h and waves of three to five meters high in coastal areas.
Chiapas and Guerrero: Torrential rainfall (150 to 250 mm) with gusts of 40 to 60 km/h and waves of one to three meters high, with waterspouts possible.
12:00 PM CST Key Messages on #Hurricane#John: John rapidly strengthens to a hurricane. John is forecast to rapidly intensify into a major hurricane before making landfall in southern #Mexico. Preparations to protect life and property should be rushed to completion. pic.twitter.com/ETpaepxLbo
The NHC has said that Hurricane John will cause “large and destructive waves,” as well as potentially “catastrophic, life-threatening flash flooding and mudslides” to the coasts of Chiapas, Oaxaca and southeast Guerrero.
The national weather agency has cautioned residents of these areas that strong winds may lead to falling trees and billboards.
Monday weather forecast for the rest of Mexico:
Intense rainfall: Campeche, Quintana Roo, Tabasco and Yucatán.
Very heavy rainfall: Chihuahua, Durango, Michoacan, Morelos and Puebla.
Heavy rainfall: Mexico City, Colima, México state, Jalisco, Nayarit, Nuevo Leon, San Luis Potosi, Sinaloa, Tamaulipas and Tlaxcala.
Showers: Aguascalientes, Coahuila, Guanajuato, Hidalgo, Querétaro and Zacatecas.
High winds from Hurricane John may reach some areas of México state through the end of the week.
A lot has been said about San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato City - and for good reason. But how do these gems stand up to the MND Where to Live in Mexico test? (The Longest Weekend)
Last week’s essay drew inspiration from a bygone era when the Pacific’s Mexican Riviera dominated the tourism landscape. This week we turn to the Mexican heartland, and a state that’s captured the attention of global travelers competing for selfies and a heady dose of “real Mexico.” Guanajuato has two UNESCO World Heritage cities and a third “route” (the Camino Real) that’s also on this coveted list. San Miguel de Allende has even earned a “Best City in the World” ranking a remarkable five times, 2014, 2017, 2018, 2021 and 2024! That’s an astonishing feat, especially since some Mexican and even foreign residents accept these accolades with a “Really?” blush of incredulity. But even without these international recognitions, the State has earned its 21st-century overseas living cred based on some simple, undeniable attributes: location, authenticity and sophistication.
Guanajuato was one of the first areas of Mexico colonized by the Spanish. In the mid-16th century, the state’s rich silver deposits lured the Spanish crown to develop settlements that grew into centers of wealth and influence. In fact, for some two and a half centuries, nearly one-third of the world’s silver came from the mines of one city — Guanajuato. This fertile region was also Mexico’s “breadbasket” — its farms, orchards and ranches feeding the emerging New World cities. The mining wealth enabled the economic and social emergence of Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries, helping fuel the Renaissance.
Guanajuato state is one of the oldest colonized regions of Mexico, and the mineral wealth found there made its cities some of the richest in New Spain. (Barefoot Caribou)
It has an average altitude of 2,015 meters (6,611 ft) above sea level. Guanajuato has a pleasant, high desert, spring-like climate, with temperatures from 11 to 26 degrees Celcius (52 to 80 Fahrenheit). Winter evenings can be cold, while the summer rainy season lasts from June to September — though with the uncertainty wrought by Mexico’s changing climate, this is becoming less certain with every passing year. It’s greener in the south, where vineyards are common. Before the Spanish arrived, this area was covered in dense forest, but mining needed wood fuel and sheep grazing pastures. Today, the central area is home to most of the state’s agriculture and industry since the terrain allows for highways and large farms, which produce grains, vegetables and fruit. This farmland is considered some of Mexico’s most productive.
Guanajuato State is perhaps Mexico’s grandest colonial-era showcase. It is located in the center of Mexico, in a region referred to since colonial days as El Bajio, meaning the lowlands. Guanajuato is bounded on the north by the State of San Luis Potosí, on the east by the State of Querétaro, on the south by the State of Michoacán, and on the west by the State of Jalisco. It has an area of 30,491 square kilometers (about 11,800 square miles; the size of Massachusetts). It derives great advantage from these surrounding states, especially Queretaro, which offers great access to medical care, air travel and shopping. In 2020 the state had an estimated population of 6.1 people and no one’s quite sure how many more foreign transplants.
Two cities (Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende, each around 180,000 residents) earn high marks in our series’ ratings (see below). Some will lament how these places have been “loved to death” or how rising prices and weekend “invaders” have fundamentally altered each icon’s livability. The state is not all “pina coladas and getting caught in the rain”, as a persistent criminal element in the state’s southern region has put once visited places (Irapuato, Celaya) off-limits (what a shame).
Most foreign tourists and expat residents concentrate their Guanajuato visits to the state’s most famous colonial cities: Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende. In addition, visitors will want to consider visits to León and Dolores Hidalgo, the “cradle” of Mexican independence. Prominente Pueblos Magicos include Jalpa de Canoves, Mineral de Pozos, Salvatierra, Comonfort and Yuriria. Far fewer foreigners live in these places, so you might actually get the chance to practice your Spanish.
San Miguel de Allende might steal all the plaudits, but Guanajuato is every bit as much of a colonial gem. (Feather and the Wind)
Visitor infrastructure in Guanajuato State is a step above other Mexican interior states. There’s a rich assortment of historical attractions, exquisite architecture, excellent shopping, vibrant festivals, thermal water spas, and the chance to participate in small town Mexican life. Several super-highways cross the State; there’s Guanajuato’s international airport outside of León; and intercity bus service is frequent and inexpensive. Guanajuato State is also host to some of Mexico’s most renowned festivals, including the International Festival Cervantino in October, staged in Guanajuato, and the Fiesta de Los Locos in San Miguel de Allende held in June.
The State’s gastronomic heritage is one of Mexico’s best, including wine. You’ll want to try the tuna de xoconostlesalad, menudo quitar, the enchiladas mineras, the sopes, and pozole. Tohelp disseminate traditional cuisine and new dining trends,the state hosts culinary events throughout the year indifferent municipalities, including gastronomic weeks,festivals, encounters with national and international chefs,and vineyard tours.
San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende is now so synonymous with Mexico living that there isn’t much new to say. Those who love luxury will be drawn to the colonial haven, though others decry a lack of authenticity. (The Longest Weekend)
How would most places deal with being named the “Best city in the world”? San Miguel seems to have risen above the pressure, repeatedly winning the “honor.” Of course, you might want a place to live that’s a little less “discovered”, as one blogger puts it. To some detractors, and there are many vocal critics of what San Miguel has become, it’s all a charming façade: too expensive, too many awards, too many Texas license plates, too little foreigner integration with Mexican neighbors. But that’s not the whole story. As someone living in Mexico’s “other” expat hangout (Lake Chapala) I embrace San Miguel for its architectural authenticity and shopping-gallery-lodging-dining sophistication, all things my area lacks.
I meet in Ajijic with San Miguel “refugees” who have been priced out, or driven away from what they thought would be small town living — especially on weekends, when SMA can become saturated with CDMX experience seekers. My repeated visits, which began back in the 1980’s, still deliver a very pleasing mix of multiculturalism, local business friendliness, the remarkable Biblioteca Publica, interesting folks with global perspectives, and, yes, “real Mexico” engagements.
SMA’s municipal governments have for years kept the wheels on by balancing gentrification with authenticity. If you have mobility issues, the town is sloped and parking can be a nightmare, though sidewalks and streets are immaculate in the city center, some closed to automobiles. Lodging in San Miguel offers Mexico’s most esteemed inland collection of luxury brands (Belmond, Rosewood, Live Aqua and Small Luxury Hotels among others), some exquisite and historic small inns — even a property named the world’s best hotel by Travel + Leisure in 2021, and plenty of 3-4 star choices. Rental costs have skyrocketed. If you’re hoping you’ll find a “fixer-upper”, well you’re quite late to the party. What the city lacks for living — an airport, box stores, high quality medical care — all found 45 minutes away in Queretaro, so what’s the problem?
But who better to recount the realities, truths and myths of San Miguel living than Mexico News Daily owner Travis Bembenek, who has this to say: “Rarely if anywhere in the world have I seen such a beautiful mix of people from all walks of life enjoying living as much as I do in San Miguel de Allende. The mix of locals, Mexicans from other parts of the country, and expats from around the world all coexisting happily is a sight to see.”
Guanajuato City
Guanajuato’s old flood control network now hosts the city streets, lending a charm more reminiscent of Seville than Mexico. (Visit Mexico)
This might be your Mexico living highlight for Guanajuato State, especially if San Miguel is just too, well, San Miguel. Climbing the sides of a narrow, mountainous ravine, Guanajuato founded in 1557, is one of Mexico’s most beguiling and beautiful cities. The best way to explore this city is literally to lose yourself in it. Around every corner is a new surprise. The city’s impossible topography gave Guanajuato one of the world’s most unusual, subterranean street systems. In what was once a riverbed and later the city’s flood control canals, cars now swoop through stone-arched tunnels that meander under the city.
The city’s centuries-old veneer conceals the fact that Guanajuato is a pretty hip town, imbued with musicians, artists, and Mexico’s most renowned cultural celebrations. particularly the Cervantino, held in October. Harmonies of all strains, from classical to mariachi, echo throughout the city. Strolling estudiantinas — local singers dressed as 19th century Spanish troubadours — serenade listeners on nighttime callejoneadas. Several acclaimed painters come from Guanajuato, including the great muralists Diego Rivera, José Chavez Morado, and painter Manuel Leal. The city’s downtown university campus draws foreign and Mexican students, giving the city a youthful flair.
And living here? Owning a car is not really an option, city center noise travels up into the hillsides where you’ll likely be living, and there’s nothing approaching the same levels as San Miguel de Allende for living the high life. Medical care is compromised, comparatively speaking and the demographic skews younger. But it’s affordable, eye-pleasing, and has a sort of magical ambiance that’s never boring.
Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.
By day, they can be found sipping matcha and meditating on the beach. By night? Well. (Digital Nomad Couple)
Once upon a time, Tulum, Mexico was a major port and trading center for the Maya. The Yucatán city was known for its extensive fortification, surrounded by thick limestone walls on three sides, with the fourth side protected by cliffs facing the Caribbean. These fortifications did not succeed in protecting Tulum’s Indigenous residents from later Spanish colonization, nor did they protect the area from a new type of invasion today: that of a peculiar breed of spiritually-inclined, wealthy expats seeking enlightenment… preferably the type that can be aesthetically documented via Instagram post.
Enlightenment and entitlement
These are not your average Yucatecans. (mantecadon/Tumblr)
The Tuluminati, as they’ve come to be known, are wealthy expats who descended upon this tropical paradise, armed with hefty bank accounts and a burning desire to find themselves and their purpose. Unlike their Illuminati namesake, this group is less of a secret society conspiring to meddle in world affairs and is more the type to be found taking selfies while sipping artisanal mezcal and discussing their latest ayahuasca trip.
Urban Dictionary defines Tuluminati as “An ironic, self-imposed title for the privileged hippies that came to gentrify Tulum Mexico.” The sassy, crowd-sourced entry continues scathingly:
“They were the ones that posted Instagrams of themselves dancing in “fire ceremonies” to shamanic house music on the beach while wearing mumus and doing [ketamine]. They stayed in rooms that cost $1000 a night and “worked” as influencers who were just so #blessed to be there. Unfortunately, the Tuluminati aesthetic was exposed in 2015 for gentrification and now #tulumisdead.”
Indeed, this species of digital nomad has changed the sociocultural landscape of Tulum, raising eyebrows for their pseudo-spiritual, bohemian lifestyle, often powered by tech-industry paychecks and a heady mix of Indigenous medicines and designer drugs, while residing in luxury accommodations that boast eye-popping price tags.
Behold, the official uniform of the Tuluminati. (Fonte Tulum)
Tribal beats and ketamine chronicles
The Tuluminati are drawn to events that fuse hedonism with spirituality. The electronic music scene of Tulum, in particular, is a magnet for the Tuluminati. You can find them mingling and swaying to the tribal beats of a DJ dressed in shamanic attire on a beach, or attending all-night parties.
Ketamine is the most popular drug of choice, often paired with magic mushrooms. For the more “spiritually experienced,” there are carefully-prepped “party pouches” of substances like DMT, rapé (an Indigenous ceremonial snuff) and MDMA, generously shared among friends and strangers alike.
The aftermath of these parties is just as predictable: by morning, they can be spotted wearing designer sunglasses, feeling the residual effects of the night, perched at trendy beachside cafés with names like Raw Love, casually picking at acai bowls while recounting the details of the “cenote deep house rave” they danced at until 9 a.m.
The great Tulum migration
Many of these pseudo-spiritual Western expats have made Tulum their permanent home. In a sardonic guide to Tulum, Tribalik Blog provides a portrayal of these modern settlers, pointing out that today’s “hippy hipsters” differ drastically from the more grounded spiritualists of the past:
“They spend their days doing new forms of acro yoga or spiritual coaching, have new words for chakras and auras that I can’t even remember and run so many awesome sounding projects my eyes and ears both hurt. They basically make me miss the more grounded tie-dye trouser wooly jacket wearing tarot card reading hippies of Brighton. Or even the Astanga barefooted rebirth loving hippies of Goa.“
Indeed, Tuluminati are characterized by their willingness to spend significant money on spiritual wellness experiences. It is not uncommon to see events like “Celebrating the Great Kundalini awakening!” and “Lunar Yoni Cleansing Circles” abound, with ticket prices that would make many of us choke on our overpriced matcha lattes.
“I just totally LOVE Tulum, it’s like, so totally authentic, like a piece of the real Mexico.” (Tour de Lust)
The Tuluminati dress code
Tuluminati are instantly recognizable, so spotting one in the wild is easier than you might think — and not just because they engage in impromptu front-and-center photo shoots wherever they go. These seekers of style and spirituality adopt certain garments and accessories associated with Tulum’s bohemian culture, including unusual sunglasses and items with cultural or spiritual symbolism, creating a unique mix of high-end and artisanal fashion.
The attire of this class of individual can sometimes be described as “cult leader chic” – a cross between expensive tribal-inspired fashion, Burning Man-esque costumes and designer bathing suits. Look for the telltale signs: layered shamanistic bead necklaces, wide-brimmed boho hats often retailing at close to US $350, tribal mumus and flowy natural-fabric garments that whisper “I’m spiritual, but make it fashion,” at wild price tags.
Tuluminati style reflects the contrast between adopting a want-to-be-seen “hippie” aesthetic while living a luxury lifestyle. On a Reddit thread filled with users venting about the disappointing superficiality of Tulum, one writer aptly described her experience with the Tuluminati as “People getting dressed up to bike down the dirt road.”
What do the locals think? Like everything in Mexico, the answer is split. (Society of Cultural Anthropology)
Locals weigh in
While some embrace the Tuluminati lifestyle, others view it as a form of cultural commodification or inauthentic spiritual tourism.
Most locals have nostalgic impressions of Tulum before Tuluminati, espousing mixed feelings about the phenomenon that has turned their quiet beach town into a trendy tourist hotspot. Many express concern over rapid development, particularly its impact on Indigenous communities, some of whom face eviction as Indigenous land is sold for luxury developments, like the exclusive Aldea Zama. Once home to just 20,000 residents (per a 2020 census), Tulum’s population is projected to skyrocket to 250,000 over the next decade. While tourism has brought economic opportunities, it has also driven up living costs, putting pressure on locals.
Cultural appropriation is another sore spot, with some feeling their traditions and spirituality are being commercialized and misrepresented. Environmental concerns have arisen, noting the strain on natural resources and damage to fragile ecosystems like the area’s cenotes.
A moving photo essay by the Society of Cutural Anthropology highlights the complex relationship between Indigenous populations, commercial exploitation, and cultural commodification, leaving many natives feeling displaced and worried about the long-term impacts on their families, communities and environment. The essay asks: “how is it possible that people can smile while living under poverty, pollution, and displacement—all consequences of modernization and the creation of spaces for our delight.”
The irony of the Tuluminati movement is not lost. Many of its members, who are often part of “world-improvement-focused” communities like Summit and Burning Man, claim to be environmentally conscious while jetting around the globe. They advocate for cultural appreciation yet commodify Indigenous practices, and they profess minimalism while indulging in luxury.
When the party’s over: Tulum’s morning after
Yet, despite all the criticism, the Tuluminati seem like they’re here to stay for a while. As Tulum and its Mexican locals address the effects of this high-end-hippie-driven phenomenon, it begs the question: how will this play out over time?
One thing’s for sure — whether it’s in Tulum or elsewhere, these tech shamans and Instagram yogis will bring their unique blend of pseudo-spirituality, deep pockets and party lifestyle wherever they go.
Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.
Everyone knows Puerto Vallarta has an almost endless offering of amazing stays. If you're thinking of making your next break a boutique one, why not consider one of these incredible options? (Xinalani Resort/Facebook)
Puerto Vallarta is nothing if not a great beach resort town. But the beauty of Puerto Vallarta is that it is a Mexican town first and a tourist resort area second. Puerto Vallarta was founded nearly 200 years ago as a small port city and thriving fishing village. The tourists came much later. Now of course, Puerto Vallarta is a vibrant city with a huge number of cool boutique hotel offerings. In fact, there are so many, it might be hard to choose which one is right for you.
Puerto Vallarta has a historic heart and a cultural, colorful spirit. The soul of the hotel scene here comes from its funky, eclectic, and under-the-radar boutique hotels. For those of you who tend to steer clear of all-inclusive resorts or any place with more than 20 rooms, you will be delighted to know that Puerto Vallarta has some truly impressive, small-scale places to stay that are absolutely loaded with personality.
Dine between the beach and the jungle at Casitas Maraika. (Casitas Maraika/Facebook)
From cliffside retreats and beachfront sanctuaries to historic homes hidden back along cobblestone-covered hillsides, here is a look at the best boutique hotels in Puerto Vallarta.
Xinalani: An ocean zen retreat
Perched on a dramatic cliff overlooking the pristine waters of Banderas Bay, Xinalani is more than just a boutique hotel — it’s almost like a private island retreat, and one of the top Puerto Vallarta hotel on the beach. While the hotel isn’t on an actual island, it is only accessible by boat and sits along the remote shoreline between Yelapa and Quimixto. This eco-chic retreat is a blend of luxury and simplicity, with palapa-style suites that open up to the lush jungle and glittering Bay of Banderas. The centerpiece is its spa, where treatments are inspired by ancient healing practices. Enjoy a massage under a thatched roof or a yoga class on the beach. For foodies, the on-site restaurant serves up organic, locally sourced dishes, like shrimp, spinach, leek, and lemon stew, or eggplant and mushrooms served Veracruz style.
Villa Lala: A slice of tropical bliss
The beauty of Villa Lala is that you’d never know it’s there unless you knew what you were looking for. This natural oasis, right off Highway 200, is perched on a cliff looking down over the small fishing village of Boca de Tomatlan, 40 minutes south of Puerto Vallarta. The aesthetic of the villa is all about merging nature, open-air spaces, and luxury details. Picture bamboo, driftwood, and stone. Seven of the 12 suites are equipped with private plunge pools, while all guests have access to a common pool, two garden platforms, and fish-filled ponds that pepper the property. A private pier serves as the gateway to the Bay of Banderas, whether you’re going on a kayak excursion or hopping a lancha to explore the stunning undeveloped beaches along the southern end of the bay. At night, the private beach becomes the setting for romantic dinners, blazing bonfires, and colorful sunsets.
Ever enjoyed a romantic bath with a view? Villa Lala has you covered. (Villa Lala Boutique Hotel/Facebook)
Luna Liquida: Centro’s best-kept secret
I love this boutique hotel tucked up on a cobblestone street in the heart of Centro. Centro is one of Puerto Vallarta’s busiest neighborhoods, but if you head up the hilly streets, you’ll find yourself in a quiet section of the neighborhood with the best views of the Bay of Banderas and the crown of the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. It’s the details at Luna Liquida that make this place so special, like complimentary continental breakfast served on the outdoor terrace, homemade bread, babbling waterfalls, and stellar views. Luna Liquida feels like a little neighborhood compound with five villas connected by stairways and bridges. Rooms are all artsy and decidedly Mexican, with brightly colored walls, folk art, and terracotta tiles. My favorite amenity is the infinity rooftop pool and a spectacular city view. The entire design and vibe of the hotel is quirky and comfortable, stylish and approachable. It all comes together when you realize that the owner is Fher Olvera, the frontman of the Mexican rock band Mana.
Casitas Maraika: Bohemian beachfront bungalows
Cushioned between the lush jungle and a remote stretch of white sand beach, Casitas Maraika is a cliffside bohemian enclave just south of Puerto Vallarta. Accessible only by boat or coastal hike from Boca de Tomatlan, this beach club-meets-bungalow hotel is visually stunning and full of good energy. The six casitas evoke a rustic yet elegant Robinson Crusoe vibe with thatched palapas, hammocks, bamboo, and ocean views. Part of the property is dedicated to the beach club, which serves fresh seafood and cocktails at beautiful wooden tables on the cliffs and down on the beach. You can book a day pass to the beach club if you don’t feel like spending the night. Additional activities include yoga, massages, paddle boarding, and guided meditations.
BellView Boutique Hotel: historic elegance
History and comfort go hand-in-hand at the BellView hotel. (BellView Hotel Boutique/Facebook)
Perched up in the Gringo Gulch neighborhood of Centro, BellView Boutique Hotel is a historic and beautifully designed retreat in the heart of the city. Overlooking the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, the quaint hotel has some of my favorite views of the Bay of Banderas, as well as the crown of the church and the surrounding mountains. Without only four uniquely styled rooms and suites, BellView is one of the most intimate hotels in Puerto Vallarta. You’ll want to book a table at the onsite La Capella Restaurant. It’s one of the pricier restaurant options in town, but the food is spectacular, and the views can’t be beat. Arrive for a cocktail around sunset because you’ll have one of the best views in town.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
