With ideal living conditions and lower overheads, is Mexico poised to become a senior healthcare destination? (Shutterstock)
In this episode of the MND Perspectives podcast, we explore a nascent but high-potential market: senior healthcare services in Mexico. With over 1.6 million U.S. citizens and thousands of Canadians — many retirees — calling Mexico home, demand for affordable, high-quality senior living and care is surging. Yet, supply remains scarce, and the sector faces challenges such as language barriers, staff training, and specialized medical care.
MND Perspectives: The opportunity for senior care in Mexico
This podcast was produced using AI tools. All information collected and discussed in this episode was investigated, written and edited by human journalists. Compiled from Mexico News Daily articles by Travis Bembenek. Edited by Kate Bohné. Podcast produced by Chris Havler-Barrett.
Agustín Barrios Gómez is a founding partner of International Capital Partners, a former Mexican Congressman, and a member of the Mexican Council on Foreign Relations (COMEXI).
In our series “My American Dream is in Mexico”, we delve into the rising trend of individuals born to Mexican parents but raised abroad who are now choosing to build their lives and pursue their dreams in Mexico. Each story explores their motivations, the challenges of navigating dual identities, and the connections they’re rediscovering in the country their parents left in search of new opportunities.
Today, we spotlight Agustín Barrios Gómez, a businessman, analyst, and speaker with a global upbringing. The son of a diplomat, he spent his formative years in Canada, the U.S., and Switzerland before a prolific career in both the private and public sectors. He shares insights into his privileged, international background, the milestones of his impressive career, and why he ultimately chose to establish his roots in Mexico despite abundant opportunities elsewhere.
Barrios currently runs International Capital Partners, a U.S.-Mexico investment fund.
Age: 53
Location: Mexico City
Occupation: CEO of International Capital Partners
Can you share a bit about your childhood and what brought you to live in Canada?
“My father was a prominent figure in television and later transitioned into diplomacy. When I was six, he was appointed as Mexico’s Ambassador to Canada, so our family moved there. We spent six years in Canada before President de la Madrid named him Ambassador to Switzerland, where we lived for another four years. Later, my father became Consul General to New York City, which brought me to the United States for six more years.”
How did growing up in Canada, the U.S. and Switzerland shape your sense of identity as a Mexican?
“Growing up in Canada, the U.S., and Switzerland gave me a global perspective. I speak four languages, have lived in five countries, and can adapt to life almost anywhere. These experiences shaped me into a global citizen with friends across the world and the ability to move between different cultures. Many people who’ve had similar upbringings often embrace a global identity, living in cities like London, New York, or Rome, or working for organizations like the World Bank or transnational corporations.
But I made a conscious and specific decision to define myself as Mexican. Unlike immigrants, who often leave their home country out of necessity, I’ve always had choices. As someone with options, I could decide how I wanted to live and who I wanted to be. I chose Mexico because it’s a nation with so much to offer, and I’ve always felt deeply connected to it. Mexico City, in particular, is my favorite city in the world, and deciding to plant roots here was a deliberate choice to affirm my identity as Mexican.
Barrios was raised all over the globe, before finally deciding to lay down his roots in Mexico.
That said, my experience of Mexico is very different from what many people imagine. My Mexico is a country of hardworking, talented, and creative people. I don’t see myself in the narratives of violence or victimhood that often come up when talking about Mexico. While I understand those aspects exist, they are not part of the Mexico I know or live in. Instead, my Mexico is about its incredible potential and strength, and I feel fortunate to have chosen to be part of it.”
What inspired you to not only return to Mexico but also dedicate yourself to building a life and career here?
“Mexico was the place where I felt I could make the biggest difference. The first question I asked myself was, “Where can I have the greatest impact?” And the answer was Mexico. Then came the next question: “Is Mexico a country worthwhile to dedicate your life to?” For me, the answer was yes.
Mexico is a unique country with a confluence of factors that give it a significant role on the world stage. With 120 million people and a strategic position globally, it’s a middle-income power with real potential for influence — whether through soft power or other means. Mexico matters.
However, when I returned, I realized I needed to create a Mexican persona because, despite my roots, I’d never truly lived here. I spoke Spanish with an accent, and there was a process of truly becoming part of the culture. I gave myself time in those early years to refine my Spanish, immerse myself in the culture, and develop into someone who could genuinely contribute to Mexico as a public figure. By the time I felt comfortable and fully integrated, I was ready to step into the opportunities that came my way.”
You mentioned wanting to make a difference in Mexico and fully integrating into the culture. How did that vision translate into your professional journey, and what are you focused on now?
“After 16 years abroad, I returned to Mexico City as a 22-year-old to join Procter & Gamble. Shortly after, my father had a stroke so I took over the family finances since I’m an only child. This led to entrepreneurial ventures like launching a tequila brand and running a nightclub and restaurant.
In my early 30s, I transitioned into public life, hosting a radio talk show and later running for Mayor of Miguel Hidalgo [a district of Mexico City]. Although I narrowly lost, the campaign propelled me into public policy.
Eventually, I shifted to private equity, founding a real estate investment fund in the U.S., where I’ve been navigating opportunities between Mexico City and Houston ever since. I’ve been doing this for the past eight years.”
You’re often seen as a bridge between different cultural and economic worlds. How has your journey influenced your professional vision, especially regarding Mexican-American relations?
“I’ve always believed that American prosperity and national security are closely tied to a stable and cooperative Mexico. What’s good for Mexico is inherently good for the U.S., especially when it comes to stability and cooperation. For example, if Mexico were to turn away from the U.S. or align with adversaries, it could create a significant crisis, especially given the size and strategic position of Mexico’s economy. Mexico’s economy is four times the size of Iran’s — imagine the potential chaos if it were to go rogue.
In this context, I see supporting Mexico’s interests as directly supporting U.S. interests. And conversely, what benefits the U.S. also benefits Mexico. These two countries are inseparable — there’s no daylight between their interests. You can’t truly understand U.S. history without considering Mexico, and you can’t understand Mexico’s history without the United States. The cultural, political, and economic ties are so deeply intertwined that they form a unique partnership, one that’s essential to the success of both nations.
Despite rhetoric on both sides of the border, Barrios believes that Mexico and the United States are inextricably intertwined, both politically and historically.
Also, 10% of the U.S. population is Mexican-American, and this isn’t just about immigration — it’s a historic reality. Out of the 37 million Mexicans and Mexican-Americans in the U.S., only 6 million are undocumented, and the vast majority are legal citizens. It benefits the U.S. to understand its relationship with this large, integral community. Vilifying 10% of your population doesn’t make sense, especially when that community contributes so much. The U.S. and Mexico share deep, historic ties, and recognizing these connections is crucial for both nations’ futures.”
What are your thoughts on the topic of gentrification in Mexico City?
“Gentrification in Roma and Condesa began long before Americans arrived. Mexicans have always had the ability to gentrify their own neighborhoods. While the influx of newcomers, including Americans, may drive up prices in specific areas, it’s also contributing to the city’s growing diversity, which I believe is positive. Mexico City is home to over 22 million people and has many neighborhoods that could benefit from revitalization. Areas like Santa María la Ribera or Doctores are ripe for development. The idea of xenophobia surrounding this issue is, in my view, un-Mexican — Mexico has always been a welcoming country. There are plenty of other areas in the city that can accommodate new residents and offer affordable housing. The focus should be on the city’s overall growth, not on blaming foreigners for rising rents.”
As a child of multiple cultures, how would you define the Mexican Dream?
“The Mexican Dream is rooted in diversity, personal freedom, and strong family and friendship bonds. Unlike in the U.S., where families often live separately, here in Mexico, extended families live close together, supporting each other. Hospitality is key to the Mexican Dream, with the idea that if more people arrive at your home than expected, you simply add more water to the soup to accommodate everyone. It’s about generosity, respect for different cultures, and maintaining close-knit relationships.”
What advice would you give to Mexicans who may feel the pull to succeed abroad rather than within Mexico?
“Mexico offers many opportunities, and if you’re not finding what you’re looking for in one city, consider exploring other regions like Monterrey, Oaxaca, or Mazatlan, which are experiencing significant growth. Tijuana, once considered a rough place, is now a booming foodie destination. If you still feel the need to succeed abroad, remember that personal freedom is key. Mexicans make excellent immigrants — hardworking and law-abiding — but often don’t believe in themselves enough. It’s important to take control of your life and recognize that you belong wherever you go. Only you can make that decision.”
Are you a U.S.-born or raised child of Mexican immigrants currently living in Mexico? Perhaps your Mexican parents immigrated to another country, and you’ve chosen to return to Mexico? If so, I’d love to hear your story for this series! Please leave your email in the comments, and I’ll reach out.
Rocio is based in Mexico City and is the creator of CDMX iykyk, a newsletter designed to keep expats, digital nomads and the Mexican diaspora in the loop. The biweekly dispatches feature top news, cultural highlights, upcoming CDMX events & local recommendations. For your dose of must-know news about Mexico,subscribe here.
Cazón fish goes with everything in Campeche cuisine. No dish shows this better than pan de cazón. (Sectur Campeche)
If you’ve never had dogfish — called cazón in Spanish and referring specifically to a small species of shark in Mexico — then you’ve probably never been to Campeche. That’s because many of the best dishes from this state rely on dogfish for flavor, from dogfish empanadas, panuchos and salbutes, to dogfish-stuffed xkatik chilis, the shredded dogfish in a corn tortilla with pumpkin sauce known as papadzules and the state’s signature dish: pan de cazón, or dogfish bread.
Dogfish may not sound particularly appetizing, and there are certainly those who have proven immune to its culinary charms, including two notable French visitors to Campeche during the 19th century, Ludovic Chambon and Désiré Charnay. The former described it as flavorless and “so stringy that one imagines having a bundle of thread in one’s mouth.” The latter was repulsed by the way the sharks were publicly gutted, noting the “piles of entrails that spread a pungent smell that anxiously await a flock of small and hungry vultures.”
A perfect plate of pan de cazón. (Sectur Campeche)
However, that’s not the reaction of most visitors and certainly doesn’t represent the feelings of locals, many of whom talk about pan de cazón and its delicate flavors with the same breathless passion as a poet swooning over a returning lover. A local magazine aimed at tourists, for example, once described it as “a delicacy worthy of the gods.”
The seafood bounty of Campeche
There’s good reason for Campeche’s love affair with the dogfish. In addition to their Maya heritage, evident in beloved local dishes like cochinita pibil and pibipollos, Campechanos have always enjoyed access to a bounty of fresh seafood, thanks to their state’s location on the Yucatán Peninsula.
This includes the best shrimp in Mexico, often prepared deliciously with coconut, plus amberjack, corvina, grouper, octopus, pompano, red snapper, sea bass, squid and yes, dogfish, whose abundance led to its adoption as a culinary staple by the poor by the 19th century.
The preparations for Campeche’s seafood and wild game specialties showcasing turkey, wild boar and venison reflect not just the legacy of Maya civilization, but also Spanish influence and centuries of coastal incursions by Caribbean pirates. The result is a fascinating and versatile cuisine.
In 2019, the city of Champotón set the record for Mexico’s largest pan de cazón with a creation weighing in at 637 kilos. (Campeche Travel)
However, like the one in neighboring Yucatán state, Campeche dishes are similar in that they often showcase one or more of a trinity of essential regional ingredients. Sour orange and achiote, for example, are indispensable to cochinita pibil yet also contribute distinctive flavor and an unmistakable orange color to a myriad of local favorites. Habanero chili is the third vital ingredient in Campeche cuisine. Prized for its spiciness, habanero is an absolute necessity for many regional dishes, not the least of which is pan de cazón.
What’s so special about pan de cazón?
Five primary ingredients are needed for pan de cazón in total: shredded dogfish, refried black beans, corn tortillas, tomato and habanero chili. The last two are the backbone of the dish’s amazing sauce, as richly colored and creamy as a fine Italian marinara. This comparison is not made lightly, it must be noted. Because its ingredients are layered between tortillas, pan de cazón looks like some strange cousin of lasagna.
Typically, there are not one, not two, but three tortillas used to frame the arrangement, with the dogfish and beans packed in between them. The dish is then covered in sauce, often with a topping of avocado. It makes a good starter or main course, with additional ingredients like onion or epazote sometimes included to provide more intense flavors. The dogfish — hundreds of thousand pounds of which are caught annually in Campeche — is mild yet tasty, with a hint of sweetness. It’s also quite nutritious, providing ample protein with very little fat.
Want to know what to eat in Campeche? Check your calendar
Is there a bad time to eat pan de cazón in Campeche? No, but there is an established culinary calendar, just as in many other parts of Mexico. If you’re in Guerrero, pozole will be served on Thursday. That’s where the phrase “jueves pozolero” originated, after all.
In Campeche, historically, there are foods associated with almost every day. On Monday, locals eat puchero, a stew of Spanish origin featuring beef broth and vegetables. Stews and casseroles are an integral part of the local cuisine. Seafood dishes like pan de cazón are typically consumed on Friday. Yes, this is because of the Catholic custom of abstaining from meat on Fridays and eating seafood instead. On Saturday, the day men traditionally go to market — a legacy of Campeche’s piratical past — a beef and organ meat stew called chocolomo is served for dinner. Sunday specialties include lechón (suckling pig) and a three-meat stew.
The spirit of the Campechano
Several traditional drinks are served in Campeche. Tanchucuá is the most famous of these, if only for its antiquity. It’s made from corn and chocolate, two time-honored Maya ingredients. However, as a pairing option, it more commonly accompanies pibipollos, a large tamal served on Día de Muertos. To go with pan de cazón, you could try aguas frescas like horchata, popular locally, or the Campechano version of the Cuba Libre made with rum and equal parts Coca-Cola and soda water.
The word “campechano” deserves special mention for its versatility. Campechano originally referred solely to the people who live in Campeche. But due to their famously relaxed and open attitude, the term has since become a Mexican synonym for laid-back. Since the 19th century, it has also entered the language in verb form as campechanear, which denotes something mixed.
Tacos campechanos are the obvious example. This taco style requires two or more meats. However, like the Cuba Campechana, as the Cuba Libre with soda water is known, it’s named for being a mix, not necessarily for any regional affiliation with Campeche. You’re more likely to find both of these items in Mexico City — for the tacos campechanos, try the amazing El Villamelón.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.
The Puerto Vallarta Malecón is a city icon. Our local guide has the ultimate itinerary for the area. (Destinationless Travel)
If there’s any place more touristy than Puerto Vallarta’s cruise marina, it’s the city’s Malecón. The mile-long stretch of Pacific promenade has the most spectacular Bay of Banderas and sunset views. But that means it is also one of the first places in town where tourists — and the businesses that cater to them — flock to in droves.
But that doesn’t mean that locals and long-time residents don’t also enjoy the Malecón. It has been a city landmark since the 1930s and is truly a front-row seat for the most swoon-worthy, explosive sunsets which, I argue, are among the very best in the world. While some visitors get swept up in the tourist traps, savvy travelers know that the Malecón is best enjoyed through the eyes of those who call this paradise home. With a little insider knowledge and a touch of wanderlust, you’ll discover the heart of Puerto Vallarta, one sculpture, sunset and café at a time.
Start with the sculptures
(Sand in my Suitcase)
No matter how many times I visit the Malecón, no trip is complete without a stroll amongst the sculptures, part of the quintessential Malecón experience. I’m always drawn to the poignant “Nostalgia” by Ramiz Barquet, a heartbreaking tribute to love and memory that always tugs at the heartstrings. I love the quirky “The Boy on the Seahorse,” perched ready to dive into the waves. Don’t miss Sergio Bustamante’s “In Search of Reason,” which is always popular for a photo op. Every piece tells a story.
Let’s be clear: La Vaquita, Mandala and Zoo Bar might seem like the pulse of Malecón nightlife, but locals give these flashy spots a hard pass. Overpriced drinks, ear-splitting music and a tourist-packed scene aren’t what Puerto Vallarta is all about. Instead, venture a few steps off the beaten path for a different vibe.
Start with a stop at La Bodeguita del Medio, the Mexican cousin of Havana’s famed bar. Locals love the mojitos here — minty, refreshing and dangerously easy to drink. The live salsa music is pure electric energy.
For a quieter vibe, head to Bar La Playa on the Zona Romantica side of the Malecón. This pint-sized gem is where locals unwind with cold beer and cocktails. You may also want to try All Access Sports Bar right next door. Grab a high-top table on the sidewalk for some people watching.
There’s an unspoken rule in Puerto Vallarta: When the sun dips toward the horizon, everything else can wait. The Malecón’s sunsets are legendary, painting the sky in swirls of pink, orange and gold. Grab a bench, or better yet a table at Vitea Oceanfront Bistro. This chic, ocean-facing spot offers the perfect vantage point to watch the day dissolve into evening. You can also snag a table on the sand at Langostino’s Restaurant and Bar. This beachfront institution does see its share of tourists, but it’s been around for decades and the locals love it, too.
Dine like a local
(Lamara Olas Altas/Facebook)
The dining scene along the Malecón is a delightful mix, and a little guidance goes a long way. For Italian, head straight to La Dolce Vita, a spot beloved for its fresh pasta and carpaccios. Yes, you’re in Mexico, but who can resist a decadent seafood pasta and a glass of Chianti?
When you’re craving seafood, nothing beats Lamara Olas Altas. This unassuming eatery is a ceviche paradise, serving up the freshest seafood with bright, zesty flavors. A tuna tostada paired with a cold Pacífico will send you over the edge.
If coffee is your love language, make a pilgrimage to Puerto Café. This local haunt serves up single-origin Mexican coffee with a side of friendly banter. Whether you need a pre-stroll espresso or a mid-day cold blue, this is a great spot to fuel up.
And when indulgence calls, there’s Sendo, a decadent omakase-style sushi experience that truly rivals anything on the streets of Tokyo.
Skip the souvenirs
(Three Hens and a Rooster/Facebook)
Before you’re tempted by that colorful ceramic skull or embroidered tote, here’s the tea: Malecón souvenirs are almost always marked up. While the stalls offer eye-catching wares, Puerto Vallarta natives prefer hunting for treasures at boutique shops like Lemongrass Boutique or local markets.
Evenings on the Malecón
(Pinterest)
After dinner, the Malecón transforms into a lively carnival of street performers, live music and food vendors. Stroll along and soak in the colorful chaos. When your feet tire, grab a late-night table at Vitea for one more drink or head over to El Colibri, a speakeasy-style cocktail bar that has a great energy and fun social scene.
Puerto Vallarta’s Malecón is more than a tourist hotspot: it’s a living, breathing slice of local life. While it’s easy to get caught up in the neon lights and souvenir stands, a little curiosity goes a long way. Stick to the spots locals love, and you’ll leave with some great memories and more than a few sunset photos.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
A warming fruit punch with a kick, ponche has been a part of Mexican winter celebrations for centuries. (Canva)
Smell and taste are senses with an incredible ability to transport us back to specific places, people and moments in our lives. One scent that invokes this for me is the aroma of ponche. Ponche gives me my “Ratatouille” moment, bringing back memories of my grandparents, my childhood, the posadas we went to and the carols we sang. I’ve worked hard to forget the period of my life when I was controlled by a rat, though. We don’t talk about that anymore.
I can vividly recall the look of fright on my grandmother’s face when we, her grandchildren, rocked one of her very special Baby Jesus figures that she had purchased during one of her many exotic Catholic pilgrimages. Of course, I also remember the excitement of breaking the piñata with the help of someone stronger — my dad. Perhaps this is why this time of year is my favorite.
Posadas 101
It wouldn’t be a posada without a piñata. (Joseph Sorrentino)
In pre-Hispanic times, the Mexica held celebrations during the winter solstice in honor of Huitzilopochtli, the god of war. These festivities included offerings, ceremonies, bonfires and various activities encouraging community participation.
During the colonial era in Mexico, priests became concerned when they noticed that Indigenous people were reluctant to enter churches, as they believed it was a serious act of disrespect to step into the house of any deity. In a stroke of creative genius, the priests organized theatrical performances reenacting the pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary and Joseph before the birth of Jesus outside the churches, introducing some elements of the festivities they already did for other deities. This innovation led to the traditions of posadas and pastorelas.
At the end of these performances, a piñata would make an appearance. Originally, piñatas were shaped not like a donkey, but a star symbolizing the Star of Bethlehem. Its seven points represented the seven deadly sins. Breaking the piñata symbolized the struggle against evil, while the rewards that came from it represented the blessings of conquering sin.
In modern times, after the posadas and pastorelas, tamales, ponche, atole and buñuelos are served. For a charming depiction, watch Disney’s “The Three Caballeros.” It is the most beautifully illustrated and romanticized explanation of what posadas are in Mexico.
Legend has it that Mexican ponche is an adaptation of India’s panch, introduced by the Spanish. Lacking the original five ingredients — alcohol, sugar, water, lemon and tea — the Spanish improvised using a mix of local and Asian ingredients brought through trade: sugarcane, prunes, hibiscus, apples, cinnamon, guava, tejocote, tamarind and piloncillo.
So ponche became a simple and affordable drink, full of flavor and meant to be shared with loved ones par excellence during this season.
Tejocote
A ponche without tejocote isn’t truly complete. This fruit is 100 percent Mexican and has been used in pre-Columbian rituals, traditional remedies still prepared today and recipes passed down through generations.
Guava ponche. (Instagram)
In Nahuatl, the word tejocote translates to “sour stone,” which is fitting since raw tejocote is a small, hard fruit that resembles a tiny apple. It was historically used in offerings to various deities and as tribute. Over time, tejocote has become one of the essential fruits for the Día de Muertos altar, ensuring that the souls of children visit as well as for Christmas celebrations. While it may not hold any specific symbolic meaning, its wide availability and distinctive flavor make it a defining element of the Mexican festive season.
Entren Santos Peregrinos
This phrase — “enter, holy pilgrims” — originates from traditional Mexican carols and signifies the start of the celebration. To begin your own festivities, here’s a ponche recipe to ensure your celebration is authentically Mexican.
Ingredients
4 liters of water
500 g tejocotes, washed and stemless
500 g guavas, quartered
2 sections sugarcane, peeled and cut into sticks
2 red apples, diced
200 g prunes
200 g tamarind (optional, peeled)
1 cup dried hibiscus flowers
3 cinnamon sticks
5 cloves
2 star anise (optional)
500 g piloncillo (or sugar to taste)
1 cup brown sugar (adjust to taste)
Cinnamon sticks for garnish
Optional: 1 cup rum or brandy for a festive touch
Instructions
In a large pot, bring the water to a boil with cinnamon sticks, cloves and star anise to create an aromatic base.
Cook the tougher fruits. Add the tejocotes and boil for 10 minutes until soft. Remove, peel and deseed if desired. Add the sugarcane and tamarind, cooking for an additional 5 minutes.
Add the remaining fruits. Stir in guavas, apples, prunes and hibiscus flowers. Simmer on low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Sweeten the ponche. Add the piloncillo in chunks and brown sugar. Stir until completely dissolved. Adjust sweetness to taste by adding more sugar if necessary.
Cook for another 10 minutes to blend flavors. Turn off the heat and let it sit for 10–15 minutes.
Serve hot, ladling the ponche into cups. Make sure each serving includes fruit and a piece of sugarcane. Add a splash of rum or brandy if desired.
Pro tip: Slow cooking enhances the flavors. Leftovers can be refrigerated and reheated the next day— the flavors will be even better!
Enjoy with tamales, buñuelos, “The Three Caballeros,” Mexico News Daily and most importantly, your loved ones.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
Varied terrain makes for spectacular scenery on road trips in Mexico. (Travis Bembenek)
Let me start with this disclaimer: I don’t like driving and I never really have. Even in my native Midwestern United States, where the highways are flat, wide, easy to navigate, and speed bump-free, I still don’t like driving. I guess I have always been a somewhat impatient person. so I never found myself able to just “sit back and enjoy the ride” of a road trip.
Living in Mexico, that hasn’t changed. When my wife and I travel around the country, which we do frequently, we have always taken either a bus or an airplane to our destination. But as I recently hit an important (albeit, slightly depressing) birthday milestone, we were brainstorming how to celebrate and an idea occurred to us: What if we took a road trip to some parts of Mexico we have not yet discovered? It seemed like a good idea; some places are hard to get to by bus or flight, and we thought we needed some downtime to just chat in the car on the road. So we did it.
Mexico’s many mountain roads make for beautiful — if stressful — road trips. (Travis Bembenek)
How did it go? Well, we survived the trip and I am still married … but barely. Here are my top eight observations on taking a Mexican road trip:
1. Planning a road trip in Mexico requires a very different mindset than in the U.S. or Canada. Driving should be done during daylight hours and the distance covered each day will be significantly less. Every spring break, my family would pack up the family van in Wisconsin and drive non-stop through the night for a total of 20 hours to go on a ski trip in Colorado. You are not going to do that in Mexico — neither the all-nighter nor the ski trip!
2. Depending on the type of driver you are, you most likely will not find your time on the road in Mexico very relaxing. There are sudden lane changes, frequent toll booths, extremely sudden lane closures due to construction, speed bumps (of course!), sharp curves, and often double-load semis driving as slow as 10 mph. The result: You likely will not even want the distraction of music, a podcast, a coffee or a talking spouse, and will likely have your hands locked in the “10 and 2” position the entire time.
3. Baños, food stops and gas stations require careful planning. This is a very big difference from a north-of-the-border road trip. In the U.S. or Canada, we are used to multiple gas stations, restaurants of all types, and acceptable bathrooms at literally every single exit. A highway driver north of the border is rarely more than a mile or two away from truck stop hot dogs, trucker caps, decent bathrooms and junk food. In Mexico, we often would go for 30-plus minutes without a gas station and for several hours without encountering food I would want to eat, beyond Oxxo-type provisions or a baño I couldn’t ask my wife to use without fear of a divorce.
Convenience store provisions are sometimes the safest and most easily available option on a road trip through Mexico. (Wikimedia Commons)
4. Highway driving in Mexico is generally safe, if you are smart and take a lot of extra precautions. Not all states and not all areas are safe. Smaller roads can be risky. Night driving is unsafe. Hanging out at truck stops can be unsafe. But if you are smart — drive in daylight hours, use your Google Maps app, and drive carefully at speeds much slower than you would up north — you will very likely be just fine.
5. Frequent comments I have heard from gringos to “beware of the federales” seem to me to be a lot of hyperbole. I do not and would not drive in Mexico City as I have heard many stories of traffic police shakedowns. But on this road trip, we never saw a police car “trying to radar-gun a speeding car.” In fact, we saw very few police cars on the roads the entire drive. In full disclosure, I have been stopped by Mexican police close to a dozen times in my nearly 30 years of driving in the country (always with rental cars driving short distances and most of the time because I did something wrong). However, not one single time — not one — have I been asked to pay a bribe or received a ticket. That being said, I am absolutely certain that my fluent Spanish has helped me get out of such a situation more than a few times.
6. The scenery on your Mexican road trip will likely be varied and quite stunning. Given the country’s many mountains, often rapidly changing climate zones and prevalence of microclimates, we would see incredible changes in trees and vegetation in just a few hours. What makes the actual driving stressful is precisely what makes the scenery so beautiful: Driving in mountains is never easy!
7. Toll roads are the way to go. Yes, they are expensive, very expensive, but they really are the only logical option. Our road trip of approximately 25 hours of total “time on the road” cost over US $200 in tolls. However, toll roads are much faster, much safer, and in case of a breakdown of any type, would be much more conducive to getting help. Note: I have gotten two flat tires in Mexico (actually both in the same 24 hour period) and in both cases got outstanding and affordable help despite not being on toll roads at the time. Another way to look at toll roads in Mexico to help “ease the pain” of the cost is to remember that they are a pretty good model of “those that use them, pay for them” versus charging higher taxes for everyone to help pay for them — regardless of the usage. Does this make for a better model? … I’m not sure.
Travis and Tamanna at a happier, non-driving moment in the trip. (Travis Bembenek)
8. I love my wife and have enjoyed every minute of our 21 year marriage, but that still doesn’t mean we are cut out for road trips. After this one, we found ourselves thinking that perhaps why we still love each other is precisely because we haven’t taken road trips together. We had a great time and will for sure do shorter road trips again, but definitely reconfirmed that we are more of a “bus and airplane” couple!
So where did we go? We started in our hometown of San Miguel de Allende, drove through the state of Guanajuato to Ajijic (Lake Chapala) in Jalisco. Then we drove down through Colima to the beach town of La Manzanilla, up the coast to Puerto Vallarta, over to Guadalajara, and then back home to SMA via León — all in 10 days.
I will write more on some of my non-driving observations of the journey in my next column.
Travis and Tamanna journeyed from San Miguel de Allende to the Pacific coast and back in 10 days. (Google Maps)
Do you agree with my thoughts on driving in Mexico? Have you had similar good or bad experiences on the highways? Did you test a marriage or friendship with a Mexican road trip? Please share in the comments!
Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.
Ride along on our Baja California road trip and take in the sights of one of Mexico's most overlooked states. (Nick Dunlap/Unsplash)
Los Cabos is a popular vacation destination. But its most popular getaways, cape cities Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, are also gateways to other regional destinations via two of the most exciting words in the English language: road trip. This magical phrase conjures colorful adventures and miles of scenic vistas, opportunities for which are abundant in Los Cabos and the adjacent La Paz municipality.
Fortunately, renting a car in Mexico is easy: all you need is a credit card and a driver’s license. The U.S. and Canadian versions are acceptable too.
Todos Santos
At just an hour’s drive away, Todos Santos is the perfect day trip destination. (Andrea Izzotti/Shutterstock)
This Pacific Coast Pueblo Mágico is only one hour by car from Cabo San Lucas. It’s thus a popular day trip destination, the day trip being the shorter variation of the road trip for those who’ve booked accommodations for the length of their stay. Those with a little more freedom in their itineraries can instead opt for “the loop,” the preferred road trip route that takes Highway 19 up from Cabo San Lucas through Todos Santos to La Paz — Baja California Sur’s capital city — with a return via Highway 1 through El Triunfo, Los Barriles and Santiago to San José del Cabo. Alternatively, one can leave the highway south of Los Barriles near La Ribera, and take the coast road with a stop at scuba diving village Cabo Pulmo.
This spectacular route can be done overnight style, or at one’s leisure, with multiple hotel stays along the way. However you choose to do it, Todos Santos should definitely be prominently featured on the itinerary. This charming coastal town was a sugarcane capital during the 19th century — the origin of its many striking brick buildings — but since the mid-1980s, it has been better known for its arts scene. There are art galleries aplenty, plus great food and drink options. And for outdoor types, there’s excellent surfing off Playas Cerritos, San Pedrito and La Pastora.
Todos Santos is a beautiful place. Artists rave about the quality of its light. But the entire town is picturesque, with extraordinary landscapes a specialty at its many boutique hotels, the oldest and most famous of which is the Hotel California.
La Paz
From October to May, visitors to La Paz can expect magnificent sightings of whale sharks, the world’s largest fish. (NOAA/Unsplash)
Any visit to La Paz should start at its Malecón, the three-mile-long seaside promenade beloved by locals and visitors. The road that parallels it, Paseo Álvaro Obregón, also leads out of town to the northeast, where visitors will find some of the most beautiful beaches in all of Mexico, including Playas La Balandra and El Tecolote. Or you can stay downtown and bask in the colorful mix of cultural sites — the cathedral of Nuestra Señora de La Paz is a must. Make sure to check out La Paz’s arts and crafts shops and seafood restaurants too, the benchmark being El Bismarkcito. Or go snorkeling, dive wrecks, explore uninhabited offshore islands or swim with whale sharks from October through May.
El Triunfo
Quiet El Triunfo offers a taste of Gold Rush history – and the Eiffel Chimney?! (Visit Los Cabos)
Highway 1 to El Triunfo winds through the Sierra de la Laguna — the mountain range that forms the spine of Baja California between La Paz and Los Cabos — and is one of the most scenic drives you’ll ever take. The town, situated at just over 1,500 feet above sea level, is a must for road trippers. In 1862, 13 years after the San Francisco gold rush, more than 10,000 prospectors descended on El Triunfo and nearby San Antonio to mine for gold and silver.
Before the mines closed in the 1920s, El Triunfo was among the wealthiest places on the peninsula. Today, it has great museums, a beautiful church and a possibly-genuine Gustave Eiffel construction. In 1890, one year after he finished his masterpiece in Paris, Eiffel is said to have built the 47-meter-high foundry chimney known as “La Ramona,” which still towers over El Triunfo.
Los Barriles
Lazy beach days beckon in Los Barriles. (La Paz)
The locals, many of whom are retirees from the United States, tool around town on ATVs, and everybody eventually ends up at the beach… or at least the Lazy Daze Beach Bar. Fishing put Los Barriles on the map in the 1950s, a fact celebrated at old-school lodgings like the Los Barriles Hotel, where a marlin is painted on the bottom of the swimming pool. During the winter, wind sports are also big off the town’s sizeable beach, thanks to the El Norte winds that provide perfect conditions for kiteboarders and windsurfers.
Santiago and Miraflores
Santiago once attracted the best of Hollywood. Now it can attract you. (Solmar)
The first stop in Santiago should be the Palomar, a one-time haunt of Bing Crosby and John Wayne, who would fly in for the white-winged dove hunting. Nowadays, people mainly come here for the great seafood and directions to the Mirador Santiago de Yola, a rickety lookout platform featuring stunning views of the town’s palm groves, lagoons and surrounding mountains. The Catholic church built in the 1950s, is also worth a visit, and features a plaque honoring Jesuit Lorenzo Carranco, killed in 1734 when the old mission was overrun during the Indigenous revolt known as the Pericú Rebellion.
The Monumento a la Madre — one of the first statues in Mexico erected in honor of motherhood in 1929 — is the highlight in nearby Miraflores. This small organic farming community provides much of the produce to Los Cabos restaurants but is also famed for its annual pitahaya festival held each July. However, between Santiago and Miraflores lies another attraction: the Tropic of Cancer Monument. A globe-shaped statue sits beside the highway near kilometer 81 at the Plaza Turística y Artesanal Trópico de Cáncer for those who’d like to grab a photo of the representation of the invisible latitudinal line that encircles Earth at 23.4394 degrees north of the equator, or who want to check out the gift shops for regional specialties.
Cabo Pulmo
Diving at Cabo Pulmo is some of the best in the world. (Pascal van de Vendel/Unsplash)
The offshore marine sanctuary at Cabo Pulmo National Park is a bucket list attraction for visiting scuba divers, an undersea fantasia of living coral reefs with the highest concentration of marine life found anywhere in the Sea of Cortés. This remarkable fact is part of a conservation story that dates back to 1995 when Cabo Pulmo and its 27 square miles of land and sea first gained official protection.
The diving here is world-class and includes potential glimpses of sharks, dolphins, sea lions, eels, leaping mobula rays, endangered sea turtles and schools of bigeye jacks so dense they defy description. Eco-bungalows offer accommodation options for those who’d like to stay overnight and Tacos and Beer promises plenty of both its namesakes, plus Sea of Cortés vistas.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.
Are we as good at blending in with the locals as we thought? Maybe not, explains Sarah DeVries. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)
Are you ever walking down the street in Mexico and spot someone you just know is “one of yours”? When I say “one of yours,” I simply mean someone from the same country. You don’t have to actually claim them. Perhaps it’s part and parcel of being a foreigner in Mexico.
I’m pretty good at this, as are most people. Or are we? I suppose we don’t realize we’re not spotting the ones we don’t spot.
Spot the gringo, kids. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)
But for the most part, when you’re a foreigner in Mexico, it’s noticeable. It’s not just that we sometimes look different from our hosts. After all, there’s an incredibly wide variety of looks in Mexico; this is a very diverse country.
It’s something else. Or some ‘things’ else. The way we dress? Our gait? The way we look at people or don’t look at people? Whether or not we smile at strangers?
All of the above, perhaps. And anyway, mostWhitexicans are not traipsing around downtown on foot. And they’re certainly not doing it in athletic sandals.
Mexicans seem to get along with pretty much everyone
The good thing is that it’s not bad to look like an American around here. Unless you’ve wandered into an anti-gentrification protest or something along those lines.
Maybe stay out of the gentrification protests, but you’ll find yourself welcome just about anywhere else. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)
But for the most part, Mexicans seem to get along with pretty much everyone. They’re friendly, they’re polite, they love a good laugh, and welcome a touch of irreverence and absurdity. And there’s something about the Mexican personality that just meshes especially well with that of their North-er American counterparts.
If the rest of North America and Mexico found each other on Tinder, we’d for sure both be swiping right. Still,we all want to fit in. We want to be unique but not necessarily different.
So what is it that gives us away? Unless you’re an internationally-wanted criminal, blending in is probably not your first priority anyway. I’ve personally given up on it. Still, it’s a fun game to try and put your finger on it. What makes us so easy to spot?
If you ask Europeans how to spot someone from the United States or Canada, they’ll usually say, “Oh, you don’t have to spot them; you’ll hear them coming.”
Happily, I’m not totally sure this is true here in Mexico. Sure, your ears might perk up if you’re hearing non-Spanish, but Mexicans tend to be quite loud themselves. Whew! Speaking English is of course a dead giveaway, but at least it’s not embarrassingly higher-than-everyone-else volume.
So what else have we got?
Well, there’s our way of dressing, often utilitarian and for comfort. Here in Mexico, people who can afford to dress up consistently, do dress up consistently. Americans, by comparison, are often quite casual. The comments that most made me laugh when doing my research were those that described us as if we were dressed for a hike through the mountains even when we were just wandering around the city. Well, paisanos, they got us there.
Another tell-tale sign? What our faces are doing. Are you confidently looking straight ahead as you go along? Making direct eye contact and smiling, perhaps? Saying hello? Asking the barista how her day has been? Mexicans may be friendly, but gringos are really friendly — as in, we see a potential friend in literally every person we pass. In that sense, we differ: Mexicans are generally a tad less trusting of strangers. People from the U.S. and Canada, on the other hand, are the Kimmy Schmidt of the Americas [Editor’s note: I am British and the thought of this makes me feel uncomfortable].
Now move down: what are our bodies doing? Now this, I hadn’t thought about before it was pointed out to me. “Americans lean on things.” “Americans aren’t afraid to take up space.” The leaning thing is totally true, and while I did do that today, I at least had the decency to feel self-conscious about it. You’ll also see me and others of my kind looking very irritated when people walk by too close or don’t make room for faster walkers on thin sidewalks. “Let’s go, people!” is, apparently, a very gringo kind of urgency.
Mexican or gringo: What do you reckon? (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)
Back to friendliness: we talk to people when we can. We like chit-chat, and we’re not as discerning in terms of who we make it with. We’re also, I’ve discovered, classic oversharers. For me, this is totally true.I even publish a newsletter where I write about everything I’m thinking and feeling. Wait, are we emotional exhibitionists? In my case, I’m afraid so.
The last surprising yet embarrassing finding, which is also kind of adorable? We like to stare in amazement at stuff.
“What? That’s not true!” I thought for a brief moment before I remembered myself, just last week, stopping to examine a pretty leaf I saw up close. Sigh.
What else gives us away? Feel free to add more to the list in the comments!
President Sheinbaum addressed doubts from Mexico's partners in the USMCA trade deal at her Friday press conference. (Presidencia)
Mexico’s trade relationships were an important focus of President Claudia Sheinbaum’s final press conference of the week.
Sheinbaum responded to Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau’s latest remarks about the future of the USMCA free trade pact, and denied claims that Mexico is shipping Chinese products to the United States.
Sheinbaum: Trudeau ‘knows our intention is for the agreement to continue’
Sheinbaum was asked to respond to the remarks about the USMCA that the Canadian prime minister made during a press conference on Thursday.
Trudeau said that the USMCA is an “absolutely outstanding trade deal” that “has been incredibly successful for the Canadian economy, for the U.S. economy and for the Mexican economy.”
“This is something that we would like to see continue, that is my first choice,” he said.
However, Trudeau noted that “there have been real and genuine concerns raised about Chinese investment into Mexico that I brought up directly with the Mexican president.”
After Canadian provincial leaders called for reconsideration of the USMCA pact, Trudeau toughened his language on the deal, promising to fight for Canadian workers. (Cuartoscuro)
“… We’re leaving all doors open because my job is and always will be to stand up for Canadian workers, to stand up for the Canadian economy, to stand up for Canadian interests. That’s what guided us through President Trump’s first term and that’s what will guide us through this second term,” he said.
“… We will fight for Canadians, we will secure Canadian jobs and secure Canadian growth long into the future. Ideally we do that as a united North American market but pending decisions and choices that Mexico has made we may have to look at other options. But let me just say it again, my ideal situation is we continue to work well together,” Trudeau said.
On Friday morning, Sheinbaum reiterated her view that the USMCA is “very good” for Mexico, Canada and the United States.
“I’ve said it since I came into government. In North America this agreement allows us to complement each each, allows our economies to grow. … I spoke about this with the prime minister of Canada,” she said, referring to her meeting with Trudeau on Monday during the G20 Leaders’ Summit in Rio de Janeiro.
Sheinbaum reiterated that the USMCA deal is positive for all three parties, Mexico, the U.S. and Canada. (Presidencia)
“We have to look at what he was referring to with ‘the decisions of Mexico,’ but he knows that our intention is for the agreement to continue,” Sheinbaum said.
Sheinbaum said that her government will also “clearly demonstrate” to both the United States and Canada in future meetings that accusations that Mexico is a transshipment hub for Chinese goods is “false.”
Earlier this year, the United States became particularly concerned about an increase in steel and aluminum exports from Mexico, and effectively accused Mexican of sending Chinese metal north.
The U.S. has become increasingly concerned with the origin of steel and aluminum from Mexico. (Shutterstock)
The incoming U.S. president, Donald Trump, said in October that he would “seek strong new protections against transshipment, so that China and other countries cannot smuggle their products and auto parts into the United States tax free through Mexico to the detriment of our workers and our supply chains.”
On Friday, Sheinbaum said that vehicles made in Mexico have, on average, “only 7% content” from China, whereas “in the United States it’s 9%.”
She also highlighted that the United States imports “a lot” of goods from China.
Cristian "El Guacho" Gutiérrez Ochoa was living in Riverside, California, under a false identity before his arrest this week. (X)
A high-ranking Mexican drug lord living in California under a false identity was arrested this week on drug-trafficking and money-laundering charges, almost a year after faking his own death.
According to U.S. authorities, Cristian Fernando Gutiérrez Ochoa, aka “El Guacho,” arranged to ship 40 metric tons of methamphetamine and 2,000 kilograms of cocaine to the United States for the Jalisco New Generation cartel (CJNG).
Gutiérrez Ochoa, 37, is the son-in-law of CJNG boss Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes, aka “El Mencho”. Late last year, he went missing, allegedly murdered for lying to his father-in-law.
At the time, the suspect was wanted by Mexican authorities on charges of kidnapping two members of the Mexican Navy in November 2021. The kidnapping was allegedly carried out to secure the release of his mother-in-law (El Mencho’s wife) who had been arrested on drug-related charges.
Around the same time, the Los Angeles Times reported, a tequila manufacturing company paid US $1.2 million in cash for a luxury residence in Riverside, southeast of Los Angeles.
According to an affidavit from a Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) agent, the purchase was deemed suspicious and the previous owner of the home said she believed the buyers were drug dealers from Mexico.
At the time of his disappearance in December 2023, “El Guacho” was wanted by Mexican authorities for kidnapping, a crime he allegedly committed to secure the release of his imprisoned mother-in-law Rosalinda González. (File photo)
After further investigation , the DEA determined that the tequila company was likely a money-laundering front, prompting them to look closer at the man identified as Luis Miguel Martínez.
In October, U.S. authorities acted upon an Interpol notice seeking Gutiérrez Ochoa’s detention and, using facial recognition software, found that “El Guacho” and Martínez were the same person.
Who is El Guacho?
According to the U.S. Department of Justice (DOJ), Gutiérrez Ochoa allegedly began working for the CJNG 10 years ago, quickly becoming a ranking member of the cartel.
The authorities say “El Guacho” was put in charge of coordinating drug shipments from Mexico, while also being involved in money-laundering operations.
Nicole Argentieri, a senior DOJ official, was quoted by the LA Times as saying “[Gutiérrez Ochoa] allegedly directed the importation of tons of methamphetamine and cocaine into the United States and engaged in violence to aid the cartel’s criminal activities.”
“El Guacho” eventually married Oseguera’s youngest daughter, Laisha, who has been identified in court records as a U.S. citizen and owns a coffee shop in Riverside.
El Mencho’s family behind bars
Gutiérrez Ochoa is just the latest member of Oseguera’s family to have been apprehended.
Antonio Oseguera, brother of “El Mencho,” was captured by the Mexican Army in December 2022 on weapons and money-laundering charges. In February, a Mexican federal judge approved an extradition request from U.S. authorities.
To this day, CJNG chief Nemesio Rubén Oseguera Cervantes, commonly known as El Mencho, is one of the most wanted fugitives in both the U.S. and Mexico. (U.S. DEA)
So as the Mexican authorities’ pursuit of “El Guacho” on the kidnapping charges intensified, “El Mencho” arranged for his son-in-law to escape. U.S. authorities assert that was when Gutiérrez Ochoa “allegedly faked his own death and assumed a false identity to evade justice and live a life of luxury in California.”
If convicted, Gutiérrez Ochoa faces from 10 years to life in prison on the trafficking charges and an additional 20 years on the money-laundering counts.
