Thursday, March 5, 2026
Home Blog Page 1943

Driving in Mexico step one: hone your vocabulary of Spanish swear words

0
Many drivers believe there is a five-second period of grace after the light changes.
Many drivers believe there is a five-second period of grace after the light changes.

As Mexican culture coalesced over the past 500 years, a complex social stratification was formulated which is as distinct as the face of a multilayered sandstone bluff, and historically as strict as the Indian caste system.

Just in the last two centuries, two bloody revolutions were waged against the privileged aristocracy by the downtrodden masses, who sought to level the playing field. Even though the working people of this country mostly triumphed in both struggles, the social divisions within modern Mexican culture are as evident as ever.

Mexican television, with its overacted telenovelas, game shows and newscasts, are filled with güeros (light-skinned people) in numbers completely disproportionate to the general population. Even the print media is filled with advertisements featuring white-faced people with a liberal sprinkling of blond-haired women.

The Superior brewing company has used the slogan of su rubio de la categoría (blond of the category) which in daily use is intended to mean the cream of the crop, for over a century.

This subtle manipulation of the cultural mindset has been exacerbated by the rapid proliferation of both television and its programming throughout this country over the past 30 years. With 94% of Mexican households having a television, along with many restaurants and most bars, the media saturation of this culture is extensive.

With this almost constant media bombardment, a vast cross section of the population is suffering from what I like to call “comparative lifestyle deficiency syndrome.”

From the opulence seen in the telenovelas, to the smiling faces on the magazine covers, many people yearn to scale the vertical strata to gain that feeling of superiority over others, even if just for a moment.

For many Mexicans, that moment comes when they grip a steering wheel for the first time. Or possibly it’s when the thrum of the engine can be so easily commanded with slight movements of the right foot.

Whatever the subtle prompt may be, this behavioral transformation is an immediate and all-consuming trance. The new driver becomes the only person who matters as all else falls away. What a feeling! Their reverie induces an invincibility never before encountered, along with the illusion of absolute control over something for the first time in their life.

As if by universal decree, they are enveloped by a sensation of raw power, as background noise fades and their vision becomes a forward-looking tunnel.

These drivers are inclined to exhibit dangerous behavior whenever the right-of-way may be questionable, or when they encounter traffic control devices. Their inability to utilize their peripheral vision, while negotiating heavy traffic, makes them easy to spot.

These are the drivers who, with their eyes straight ahead, will continuously ignore all other cars as two lanes merge into one. These are the ones who will blow through the first five seconds of a red light without even a glance to the side.

These are the drivers who run stop signs without relinquishing any of their velocity while appearing to be in a hypnotic state, staring down the length of the hood like — dare I write it? —  a zombie.

For those accustomed to polite drivers who keep to road rules, this can be a trying road to drive. Indeed, ever since moving to Mexico I have been contemplating the large percentage of bad drivers wherever there are automobiles. Anybody who has been in Mexico longer than 15 minutes will have a Mexican driver story; those who have been here longer will have a veritable plethora of near-death experiences to relate.

When I first came to Mexico, it was difficult to restrain myself from disgorging my complete litany of obscenities at what I came to refer to as the zombie drivers. It quickly became evident that I needed to channel my indignant exasperation into a more positive personality trait. In short, I needed to shed my gringo propensity for hysteria-induced road rage.

Fortunately, after my earlier positive outcomes from the Acme Expat Immersion Therapy and Attitude Modification Program (the adventures of which have been the subject of some earlier writings), I searched further. What luck to discover Acme Company’s Three-Step, Expat Driver Training and Cross-Cultural Indoctrination Program!

I was quite pleased to learn the first step in the program was to focus the driver’s angst into a well-rounded vocabulary of Spanish expletives which would fully express, as well as liberate, suppressed rage.

Within a couple of months, I transitioned my denunciating profanities from English to Spanish. I was beginning to enjoy the feeling of how properly pronounced Spanish lubricities just rolled off my tongue. So engrossed did I become in constructing a multi-word insult for an offending driver, I found that I quickly forgot the incident which triggered the outburst; whether this was the result of Acme’s clever therapy or old age is still not clear, it just worked.

And, having more than adequately fulfilled Acme’s first-step requirement, I plunged into the second step with gusto.

I learned how to anticipate Mexican drivers’ various antics, which commonly bamboozle the average expat. For example, knowing that some drivers will swerve one way then suddenly turn 90 degrees in the opposite direction allows you to react appropriately. You are empowered rather than infuriated.

Recognizing the possibility that a black SUV with heavily-tinted windows and no license plates might be driven by arrogant and ill-tempered narcos helps to empower your keen sense of self-preservation as you take an alternate route.

The second step of the program also includes an invaluable, hands-on tutorial on the proper use of the horn. Here in Mexico, horn honking is a national pastime enjoyed by all drivers, including properly prepared gringos.

Expats, especially Canadians, can be reluctant to even touch the horn, let alone bear down on it while spewing Spanish curses. Acme breaks through that cultural barrier and will have you playing the horn like a finely tuned instrument.

If the horn on your own car fails to sufficiently frighten the drivers in your immediate area, contact Acme On-Line and purchase their easy-to-install, 180-decibel, industrial-strength air horn. This handsome accessory comes with hearing protection and its own high-volume air compressor, guaranteed to crack glass and inflect cochlea damage to any human within a hundred meters.

Acme’s third step is tailored to those stalwart individuals who have quick reflexes and wish to delve into the audacious. Where the second step is dedicated to honing your defensive skills, the axiom of the third step is “The best defense is a calculated offense.”

The third step is custom tailored to specifically address the entranced motorist. What these people need is a good scare, an action so shocking it could loosen their bowels. This graduate-level course teaches you how to spot these zombie drivers just seconds before they commit one of their habitual infractions, and then you will take the situation to the next level.

Acme’s researchers have discovered that the sudden realization of impending trauma will shock most zombie drivers into actually looking at another vehicle. You will acquire the multitasking skill of stopping your vehicle within inches of the offender while leaning on the air horn.  Note, however, that since using the air horn is therapeutic, obscenities are optional.

This third-step tactic can only be accomplished after spending a month with Acme’s experts on speed and distance judging. When your prowess is perfected you will be able to stop your vehicle, from any speed, a hair’s breadth from both stationary and moving objects. The deep sense of satisfaction, engendered by the look of terror on the other driver’s face, is worth the many hours of practice.

Having acquired the proper skills, I now look forward to plying the highways and byways of Mexico and so can you — just contact the good folks at Acme today.

The writer describes himself as a very middle-aged man who lives full-time in Mazatlán with a captured tourist woman and the ghost of a half wild dog. He can be reached at buscardero@yahoo.com.

Passenger train costs have shot up 53% and project’s not done yet

0
The long-awaited passenger train may still be years away from completion.
The long-awaited passenger train may still be years away from completion.

The cost of building the Mexico City-Toluca intercity passenger train has increased by 53%, according to a government report.

A cost-benefit analysis completed by the Secretariat of Finance and Public Credit (SHCP) shows that the projected cost for the 57-kilometer railroad had shot up to just under 71 billion pesos (US $3.6 billion) on December 5 compared to just under 46.3 billion pesos (US $2.4 billion) in 2013.

Protests against the project, legal problems, compensation payments to affected property owners, construction delays and changes to the planned route have all contributed to the cost blowout.

Outlays on a range of new studies, including ones related to topography and the environment, work stoppages, postponements of the expected completion date, legal expenses, inflation and the necessity to complete works that hadn’t been anticipated were also factors in the ballooning cost of the project.

A total of 54 modifications to construction agreements have been made since 2013 in response to problems the project has faced, the SHCP report said.

In its 2019 budget, the federal government allocated an additional 3 billion pesos (US $154.5 million) to completing the intercity train, intended to reduce travel time between Mexico City and Toluca to just 39 minutes.

If that funding is taken into account, the cost of the project has risen by 59%.

The previous federal government said early last year that the project would be finished by the end of 2018 and that trains would start running early this year. In June last year, the starting date for train services was pushed back to summer 2019.

While President López Obrador has committed to completing the project initiated by his predecessor Enrique Peña Nieto, he said last week that it could be another three years before it is ready to start running.

The original completion date was April 2017.

Trains operating on the new railroad will have the capacity to carry 230,000 passengers a day.

Source: Milenio (sp) 

Construction of new airport is now officially done — well, almost

0
Some work continues at the site: 'It's not just a switch you can turn off.'
Some work continues at the site: 'It's not just a switch you can turn off.'

Construction work on the cancelled Mexico City International Airport project is now officially concluded, the federal communications and transportation secretary said yesterday.

Javier Jiménez Espriú told a press conference at the National Palace in Mexico City that contracts for the partially-built US $13-billion project are now being analyzed with a view to formally terminating them in the first half of the year.

“Construction work on the airport is officially suspended and negotiations have already begun to finalize contracts . . .” the secretary said.

The new airport, which was being built on an ancient lakebed in Texcoco, México state, was the signature infrastructure project of former president Enrique Peña Nieto.

But after a widely-criticized four-day consultation on the project in late October, President López Obrador cancelled it, stating that “the decision we have taken . . . is to obey the mandate of the citizens.”

According to information provided by the Mexico City Airport Group (GACM), the state-owned firm responsible for the project, the only ongoing work at the Texcoco site is the construction of a wall around the perimeter of what would have been the X-shaped terminal building.

However, GACM chief Gerardo Ferrando conceded in a radio interview that some other work, on drainage and a partially-built control tower, had not yet stopped.

“It is not a switch you can just turn on or off automatically. Works need to be gradually finished,” he said.

Last month, a majority of bondholders who had invested in the airport agreed to a US $1.8-billion buyback offer from the federal government, which López Obrador said cleared the way for construction of a new, cheaper airport at the Santa Lucía Air Force base in México state.

However, there are 134 existing contracts worth just over 154 billion pesos (US $7.9 billion) that still need to be settled, the GACM said.

López Obrador met with contractors in November and subsequently declared that the companies wouldn’t seek to sue the new government, file injunctions against the cancellation decision or charge fines. That situation doesn’t appear to have changed.

The companies that were building the airport, which the previous government said would be approximately 37% complete at the end of November, will be reimbursed for non-recoverable expenses.

López Obrador railed against the project during last year’s presidential campaign, charging that it was corrupt, too expensive, not needed and being built on an unsuitable site that is sinking.

The Mexican peso took a dive after he announced the decision to cancel the new airport, while Mexican Employers Federation (Coparmex) president Gustavo de Hoyos described the move as “the biggest waste of public resources in the history of the country.”

However, the peso rallied on news that a buyback deal had been reached and finished the year strongly against a weakened US dollar.

In his inaugural speech as president after being sworn in on December 1, López Obrador pledged that the Santa Lucía Air Force base will be operating as Mexico City’s new airport in three years.

The government also plans to upgrade the existing airport in Mexico City and that in Toluca.

It is considering converting part of the Texcoco site into parkland for public use, Ferrando said.

Source: El Economista (sp), Reuters (en) 

Mexico calls on US to investigate tear gas attack on migrants

0
Migrants at the border fence near Tijuana.
Migrants at the border fence near Tijuana.

Mexico has sent a diplomatic note to the United States embassy calling for an investigation into the use of tear gas on migrants at the northern border on Tuesday morning.

The Secretariat of Foreign Affairs (SRE) said it had requested a thorough investigation into the incident as well as that on November 25, lamenting “any violent acts at the border with Mexico.”

The note reiterated Mexico’s commitment to safeguard the human rights and safety of all migrants.

“The Mexican government will continue to pursue cooperation in order to address the issue of migration and its causes in a bilateral manner, recognizing that it is a shared responsibility.”

Hundreds of migrants attempted to cross into the United States from the beaches of Tijuana, Baja California, shortly after midnight Tuesday, only to be repelled by border patrol agents who fired tear gas across the border.

Mexico News Daily

Weather too hot? Beat the heat in Janos, Chihuahua

0
Snow closed some highways in northern Chihuahua yesterday.
Snow closed some highways in northern Chihuahua yesterday.

Temperatures dropped below the -15 C mark early yesterday in Janos, Chihuahua, and similarly cold temperatures were felt in at least 50 other municipalities in four states.

The cold snap was caused by the cold front No. 22 and the sixth winter storm of the season, which also delivered snow in the northern state.

Temperatures in the mountains of Bocoyna, Guachochi, El Vergel and Temósachic dropped to -8, while in the cities of Juárez and Chihuahua they were as low as -3 and -4 respectively.

At -10 C, the coldest municipality in the neighboring state of Sonora was Yécora.

Accumulated snowfall of between 20 and 36 centimeters was reported in the municipalities of Nogales, Ímuris, Magdalena, Cucurpe, Cananea, Bacoachi, Arizpe, Santa Cruz, Agua Prieta, Fronteras, Nacozari, Bavispe, Bacerac, Huachinera and Bacadehuachi.

[wpgmza id=”127″]

The army is delivering disaster relief in the affected areas.

Temperatures in the state of Durango also dropped below 0 in some areas.

Supplies and aid were sent by the state Civil Protection office to Guanaceví, where the thermometer dipped to -3, and to Canatlán.

Source: El Universal (sp)

There is no Mexican time at Mexico City airport

0
The most punctual of the world's major airports.
The most punctual of the world's major airports. OAG Aviation Worldwide

Punctuality at the Mexico City airport throws into question the notion of “Mexican time.”

It is ranked one of the top five on the list of the world’s major airports for the punctuality of its flights, according to a study by a firm that monitors and analyzes aviation data.

This year’s ranking in the annual report by OAG Aviation Worldwide is four points higher than last year’s, with an 83.35% on-time performance rating.

At the top of the list of major airports, which includes those with 20,000 to 30,000 departing seats per year, was Moscow Sheremetyevo. Doha, Minneapolis and Detroit occupied the next three spots.

The analysis also examines airlines’ punctuality. Of Latin American airlines, two from Mexico were among those with the best record. Volaris and Aeroméxico placed fourth and seventh respectively.

Mexico News Daily

A health care system like Canada’s within two years: AMLO

0
The president cuts the ribbon at the opening of new IMSS offices in Michoacán.
The president cuts the ribbon at the opening of new IMSS offices in Michoacán.

Mexico will have a health care system comparable to those in Canada, the United Kingdom and Denmark in two years, President López Obrador said yesterday.

Presenting the federal government’s new national health plan at an event to inaugurate new Social Security Institute (IMSS) offices in Morelia, Michoacán, López Obrador said the health system as it currently operates is rife with corruption and in a critical state.

The president, who last month announced a new integrated federal health system that will incorporate all of Mexico’s states within two years, took particular aim at the fact that some medications are not made available free of charge to patients in the public system.

“The basic table [of medications], we have to get rid of that, I’m not even going to mention it anymore. A patient must have [access to] all medications, it’s a disgrace that if a medicine is in the basic table, a patient gets it but if it’s not? 140,000 pesos [US $7,200] for a medication against cancer, where is a humble person going to get that kind of money? What are we going to do, send him home?” he said.

“We must guarantee the right to health care . . . We’re going to work for six months in the states of Chiapas, Oaxaca, Veracruz, Tabasco, every six months more states will be incorporated [in the new health system], in order to have a system like that in Canada, the United Kingdom or Denmark, which are the best [in the world], that’s the commitment,” López Obrador added.

The leftist president, who took office on December 1 after winning last year’s election in a landslide, contended that the past government left the health care system in a worse state than the education system, of which he has also been highly critical.

López Obrador outlined the tasks his government will undertake, adding that if necessary it will open an international tendering process in order to obtain medicines at lower costs.

“The [health care] problem is so complex that it would be demagogic to say that we will resolve it this year. We have to build new health care centers, we have to finish incomplete health care centers and hospitals, hire medical personnel . . . we have to take the decision to not allow corruption in the purchase of medications and if necessary, open a tendering process to international companies, that buy medicines where they can be acquired at better prices,” he said.

The president said that in many cases politicians had become the suppliers of medications, which resulted in funds provided for their purchase being embezzled.

“That was the past, that corruption has come to an end. Nobody is going to steal the money for medicines . . .” López Obrador said.

Source: Milenio (sp) 

AMLO declares his assets but they don’t amount to much

0
AMLO's house in Chiapas is actually in the name of his children.
AMLO's house in Chiapas is actually in the name of his children.

President López Obrador has formally declared his assets, but there isn’t much to declare.

His only asset is a country house in Palenque, Chiapas, but even that property is not legally his: the legal owners are his four sons. The president said he has the legal right to use and enjoy the house “until I cease to exist, that is the agreement stated in the public ownership documents of the 12,000-square-meter property.”

The president insisted that his property is not a ranch “because a ranch and a farm are a step away from being an estate.”

“I am not a rancher . . . my parents lived on the 12,000 [square] meters, but [the land] produces nothing. I have planted trees, but they are for our own use. These are fruit and timber-yielding trees,” he said.

López Obrador’s declaration of assets also states that he has neither a credit card nor a checking account.

He does have two investment accounts, valued at 446,068 pesos (US $23,000).

Also released this morning was the declaration of assets of the president’s wife, Beatriz Gutiérrez Müller. One asset is a 2.7-million-peso house in which the couple live, located in the Mexico City borough of Tlalpan.

She also listed three properties in Puebla, a 2018 Volkswagen Tiguan valued at 353,000 pesos, a second vehicle worth 292,900 pesos and jewelry, paintings, sculptures and furnishings.

Value of the assets came to just over 8 million pesos.

Gutiérrez reported monthly income of 117,500 pesos, while the president earns 108,744 pesos.

López Obrador said all government employees, without exception, would have to present their declaration of assets. He said they are “honest people and their assets are the fruit of their honest work.”

Source: Milenio (sp), El Heraldo de México (sp)

Witness relates story of El Chapo’s jail break in a laundry cart, other cartel secrets

0
More cartel secrets revealed by drug lord's son, Vicente Zambada.
More cartel secrets revealed by drug lord's son, Vicente Zambada.

Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán’s 2001 jailbreak in a laundry cart, a contract killing he ordered and his monthly bribery budget of more than US $1 million were among the topics jurors heard about as another cartel witness gave testimony yesterday at the New York trial of the former drug lord.

Vicente Zambada Niebla, a former Sinaloa Cartel operative and eldest son of the cartel’s current leader Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada, strode into the Federal District Court in Brooklyn just before 10:00am Thursday dressed in dark blue prison clothes. After taking the witness stand he turned to his former boss and nodded his head.

Guzmán, wearing a dark navy blue suit, met his gaze and flashed a slight smile in return.

In testimony that lasted for more than five hours, during which he betrayed secrets of the cartel he was once groomed to lead, Zambada told jurors that Guzmán, who he referred to as mi compadre (my buddy/my son’s godfather), had described to him the anxiety of hiding in the laundry cart in order to escape from Jalisco’s Puente Grande maximum security prison in January 2001.

“It seemed like an eternity to him until he reached the last barrier,” said the witness, who is also known by the nickname El Vicentillo.

At one point, Zambada explained, a prison employee cooperating with the escape briefly let go of the cart and it started rolling backwards, sending Guzmán into a panic because he feared that he would fall out and be exposed.

Once free of the prison, the witness said, El Chapo met with his father in the mountains of Sinaloa where they reached a renewed pact to share cocaine trafficking profits 50-50.

“I’m 100% with you,” Zambada said El Mayo told Guzmán.

He told jurors that the two men shipped tonnes of drugs to the United States using cars, trains, planes and submarines for different legs of the journey.

Zambada said that he first met Guzmán when he was 15 and started working for the Sinaloa Cartel in his teens, often attending meetings between his father, fellow traffickers and corrupt officials.

“I started realizing how everything was done,” he told jurors. “And little by little, I started getting involved in my father’s business.”

In 2004, El Chapo ordered the murder of Rodolfo Carrillo Fuentes, a leader in the Juárez Cartel, Zambada said.

The Juárez Cartel collaborated with the Sinaloa Cartel to ship cocaine into the United States but after Carrillo insulted Guzmán by refusing to shake his hand at a meeting, the latter paid a sicario to have the former killed, the witness said.

“They located him in a mall,” Zambada said. “They were waiting for him to come out, and when Rodolfo Carillo came out, he was murdered by mi compadre El Chapo’s people.”

Carrillo’s wife, Giovanna Quevedo Gastélum, was also killed in the attack.

The murders led to an escalation of hostilities between the two cartels, Zambada said, telling jurors that one of Guzman’s close friends was killed at a birthday party for his father.

The former cartel logistics chief, who was extradited to the United States in 2009 and pleaded guilty to drug trafficking charges as part of a plea agreement unsealed in November, told jurors that Guzmán and his father spent more than US $1 million a month to pay off police, members of the military and government officials in order to be able to move their drugs freely and to get insider information about other criminal organizations.

One army general was paid US $50,000 a month, Zambada recalled, while a military officer who once served as a personal bodyguard to former president Vicente Fox was also frequently bribed.

The witness, who hopes that he will receive a reduction to his prison sentence in exchange for cooperating with prosecutors, said that in 2007 Sinaloa Cartel leaders including Guzmán met with a group of “high-level politicians” and officials from the state oil company Pemex to discuss a plan to ship 100 tonnes of cocaine in a tanker the company owned.

Zambada said he didn’t know whether the scheme was a success. A spokeswoman for Pemex declined to comment.

When asked by the prosecution shortly after the beginning of his rambling testimony about what his father does for a living, Zambada openly admitted that he is the current Sinaloa Cartel leader.

Ismael Zambada remains on the most-wanted list of the United States Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA).

El Vicentillo is the eighth criminal witness to testify against Guzmán, who is facing charges of trafficking, conspiracy, money laundering and firearms offenses. His uncle, Jesús Zambada, has also provided insider testimony about the accused’s alleged criminal activities.

The former drug lord’s defense team has attempted to portray him as a mere underling to El Mayo Zambada.

Witnesses testifying against Guzmán are “liars,” “degenerates” and “scum” who are speaking in the hope that their own prison sentences will be reduced, one lawyer said in late November.

The trial, which started in early November, resumed yesterday after a two-week holiday recess.

Vicente Zambada is expected to appear on the witness stand again today. If convicted, Guzmán faces a probable sentence of life imprisonment.

Source: El País (sp), The Los Angeles Times (en), The New York Times (en) 

Mexico’s Great Stone Balls, a geological attraction in the hills of Jalisco

0
Two of the great stone balls in the Sierra de Ameca, Jalisco.
Two of the great stone balls in the Sierra de Ameca, Jalisco.

Hidden away high in the Sierra de Ameca in the state of Jalisco, buried in a great bed of volcanic ash, lie dozens of naturally formed gigantic stone balls typically measuring from one to three meters in diameter.

Geologists call them megaspherulites, but to the local people in the nearest town, Ahualulco de Mercado, they are known as Las Piedras Bola.

According to historian Sergio Sigala, some of these balls were partially uncovered by unusually strong rains in the 1960s and were first noticed by a taxi driver named Miguel Hernández. One particular stone ball gave its name to the Piedra Bola silver mine located further downhill.

In 1969, Robert Gordon, retired director of this mine, sent photos of stone balls to ethnologist and archaeologist Matthew Williams Stirling who had described spheres beautifully worked by pre-Columbian natives of Costa Rica.

In short order, more and more stone balls were found in the nearby hills, and the word was out.

In this same year an article on these natural balls of rock appeared in the August National Geographic and the Piedras Bola gained international fame. The article refuted the idea that the giant balls may have been crafted by human or alien hands and put forth the first of several scientific theories on how they came to be.

Several Piedras Bola in Jalisco.
Several Piedras Bola in Jalisco.

United States Geological Survey geologist Robert L. Smith, who had led a National Geographic-Smithsonian expedition to the site in 1968, visualized the balls forming by crystallization of hot ash around nuclei of lava fragments, producing boulders of rhyolite.

In 2007 a study of the area was carried out by the University of Guadalajara (UdG), suggesting a variation of Smith’s hot-ash crystallization theory. As for the age of the balls, estimates range from 40 million years to less than ten million.

During the UdG study, 72 stone balls were located and measured and recommendations were made for development of this unique area in an ecologically friendly way. During the following two years, over 10 million pesos were spent by the Jalisco Secretariat of Culture to create infrastructure aimed at turning this remote site into one of western Mexico’s biggest tourist attractions.

For many years, the only way to reach the Piedras Bola was by walking along a six-kilometer-long footpath with a vertical difference of about 123 meters. During that long, hard hike you were likely to come across some of the 107 species of birds found in these rugged hills and perhaps spot the tracks of puma, mountain lions, wild boars or white-tailed deer — and you were frequently rewarded by dramatic views from several fine lookout points along the way.

In 2009, the path was widened, graded and turned into a drivable road. In addition, the developers had two zip-lines built along this route, one of them measuring 330 meters in length, as well as a long, wobbly 12-centimeter-wide suspension bridge which apparently could be crossed safely only by someone wearing a harness and clipped into an overhead cable.

Biggest Piedra Bola measured by author was 2.9 meters in diameter.
Biggest Piedra Bola measured by author was 2.9 meters in diameter.

The road takes you to an altitude of 1,908 meters where at last you find yourself on a path that winds its ways through dozens of these venerable spheres. Most of them are barely peeking out of the ground while others are fully exposed, typically ranging in size from one to three meters in diameter.

A few are cracked in half and rumor has it that a couple were actually blown to bits when they were first discovered, in the hope that something precious might be found at their center. Broken Bolas, however, clearly indicate there is nothing different or interesting to be found at their core. Geodes they are not.

It is possible though, that the Piedras Bola are actually extra-large versions of spherulites, balls of volcanic rock often found in and around obsidian flows. While spherulites may typically be no larger than a grain of rice, in some cases they may reach the size of a soccer ball. When you break them open, you usually find a radiating fibrous structure.

An examination of cracked Piedras Bola, however, shows no radiating or concentric textures indicative of crystal growth. “There’s no texture at all,” geologist Chris Lloyd told me. “It’s just massive lapilli tuff,” leaving the exact method of their formation still unclear.

The trail winds its way through some 72 Piedras Bola, according to the University of Guadalajara’s count. If you are willing to walk another kilometer, with an altitude gain of some 60 meters, you will come to Las Torrecillas, tall columns of volcanic tuff, each supporting a single stone ball.

The 12-centimeter-wide suspension bridge.
The 12-centimeter-wide suspension bridge.

As far as I can tell, these structures are formed by nothing more than rainfall washing away everything but the column underneath the rock.

In 2013, I offered to guide family members on a visit to the Piedras Bola. “Now there’s a road going there,” I told them. “Instead of hiking uphill for hours, panting and sweating, we can leisurely drive to the site in minutes!”

So off we went and everything looked great, although we remarked upon the narrowness of the road: “There isn’t room for two cars to pass. What happens if you meet someone going the other way?”

We passed the ziplines and the ultra-narrow suspension bridge, but found no one using them. A bit farther up we came to numerous parked cars and we soon discovered why they were there: suddenly what had been a useable dirt road turned into what looked like a minefield after the mines exploded, a collection of ruts that only a four-wheel-drive vehicle could negotiate.

We too had to turn around (no easy task on that narrow road with a 200-meter drop on one side) and find a place to park where space was at a premium. Why money had been poured into fancy ziplines instead of proper road construction we couldn’t fathom, but on this occasion, a Sunday, visitors to this extraordinary site numbered fewer than 20 people, suggesting you are never likely to find it crowded.

[soliloquy id="68681"]

Our mission that day was to search out the biggest natural ball we could find and measure it with a fiberglass tape to check on the accuracy of the previous survey. This turned out to be an easier task than I had envisioned because those few other people we found wandering around the place immediately offered to help us.

After much searching and measuring, the whole lot of us — who, by then, had become the best of friends — concluded that the very biggest ball we could find that day measured 2.9 meters in diameter.

After I bandied this number about, a local ornithologist told me “not all the Piedras Bola are up on that hill . . . for example, there are a dozen of them lying in a pasture that belongs to a relative of mine and you can drive to the place in just a few minutes.”

Sure enough, only 3.5 kilometers from Ahualulco, I found plenty of stone balls in that pasture and one which lay half buried in a nearby muddy stream looked to my now practiced eye much bigger than any I had seen “up on that hill.”

Unfortunately, the widest part of this particular ball lies underground, but we were able to measure the diameter of what protrudes from the earth and that turned out to be 3.9 meters.

[wpgmza id=”126″]

I’m not sure the local authorities will be directing tourists to that little pasture in the near future, but if the possibly four-meter-wide megaspherulite we found does turn out to be the world’s largest, I hope this time they will forget about building any ziplines along the way.

• More information on the Great Stone Balls can be found in Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume 2 and the driving/hiking route is shown on Wikiloc.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area and co-author of Outdoors in Western Mexico. More of his writing can be found on his website.