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MND Deep Dive: Gentrification and protest in Mexico City

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Hundreds of people protested gentrification in Mexico City’s Condesa and Roma neighborhoods last week, largely singling out Americans. Protesters cited anger over rising rents and the displacement of Mexicans, which they attribute to an influx of foreign residents, many earning U.S. dollar salaries and using platforms like Airbnb for short-term rentals. Slogans such as “Free us from American gentrification,” “You’re not an expat, you’re an invader,” and “Dispossession comes disguised as Airbnb” were displayed.

Chants of “fuera gringos” and “gringos, go home” also rang out. Resentment was also fueled by perceptions that some foreigners do not assimilate, learn Spanish, or significantly contribute to local tax collection, underscoring economic inequality where Mexicans struggle to afford housing in desirable areas.

MND Deep Dive Podcast | Gentrification and protest in Mexico City

While many demonstrations were peaceful, a smaller group engaged in acts of vandalism and violence, damaging businesses, defacing monuments, and attacking individuals. The Mexico City government, led by Mayor Clara Brugada, issued a statement denouncing gentrification and affirming a commitment to “the right to decent housing” through public policies.

This week, our subscriber-exclusive podcast takes a look at the protests, the reasons behind them and whether or not protestors are right to blame digital nomads for the cost of living crisis in Mexico City.

This podcast was produced using AI tools. All information collected and discussed in this episode was investigated, written, and edited by human journalists. Compiled from Mexico News Daily articles by Peter Davies and Sarah DeVries. Edited by Chris Havler-Barrett and Caitlin Cooper. Podcast produced by Chris Havler-Barrett. 

‘The angels brought us’: Couple’s book documents 3 decades of living in San Miguel de Allende

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Close-up of a historic church in San Miguel de Allende, showcasing its distinctive orange and yellow colors, ornate facade, and bell tower, with a cypress tree in the foreground.
Steven and Cathi House's new large format photography book, "San Miguel de Allende: "The Soul of Mexico," collects images of the picturesque city the couple took over 35 years. (Photos courtesy of Schiffer Publishing)

The amber glow of the San Miguel de Allende streetlights hitting the cobblestones often lingers in the minds of its visitors long after they have left. The ancient tiled domes of its churches, the ornate black and white suits of the mariachis in the central plaza, and the colorful skirts of the giant mojiganga puppets that wander the downtown are all common visions of this quaint, colonial town in Central Mexico.

But mental snapshots fade with time, and many desire the ability to peruse those images now and again, even if absent from San Miguel. The new large-format photography book, “San Miguel de Allende: The Soul of Mexico,” offers San Miguel fans just such an opportunity.

Cathi and Steven House, the authors of the San Miguel de Allende photography book, smile in front of a stone wall. Steven has a beard and long dark hair, and Cathi has long gray hair and is wearing a colorful beaded necklace.
Steven and Cathi House fell in love with San Miguel de Allende the way many who move there do: They stumbled across a house there for sale.

Published by U.S.-based Schiffer Publishing, the book is a love letter to the Bajío city from Cathi and Steven House, two architects whose 35-year love affair with San Miguel is demonstrated in the warm and heartrending images they have photographed over the decades, unaware that one day they would combine their photographic archives into this homage to their part-time home.

When the Houses first came to San Miguel in 1990, they were pulled in by the city’s beauty and color. They had plans to move elsewhere but were shown a crumbling ruin of a house on Calzada de la Presa that they simply could not walk away from.

“When we stepped inside, we had that kind of overwhelming sensation that the angels had brought us to that spot,” says Cathi House. “Even after all the times we’ve tried to talk about it, [it’s hard to describe] what we felt, we just knew that we were home in a way that we really had not experienced yet in our life.”

The Houses built their home on that very spot, a quiet retreat from what they call their chaotic life in San Francisco. As time went on, they found themselves more and more interwoven into the local community and pulled to make San Miguel their part-time residence. When their home won a major architectural award, people started to reach out with requests to build other homes and Cathi put together “a construction team of some of the best people I have ever met.” As they sank deeper into their life in San Miguel, they started to capture its visual landscape through the lens of their cameras.

The new book, divided into eight sections of color photos and ink drawings, presents the architecture, gardens, homes, crafts and artisans of a town that has grown into a thriving artist community since the founding of the Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes and the Instituto Allende art schools in the early part of the 20th century.

Portraits of everyday residents — the time-etched faces of old women wrapped in rebozos, a young girl in her turquoise quiceañera dress, the giggling smiles of children — are almost exclusively taken by Steven, who Cathi says has a particular talent for making his subjects feel comfortable:

A smiling traditional Mexican dancer wearing an elaborate headdress of vibrant blue, orange, and green feathers, with a matching embroidered vest and yellow feathered shoulders.
The Houses got to know their adopted city by photographing the architecture and taking shots of residents they happened to meet.

“Steven is tall, so he will come up to whoever [he wants to photograph] and immediately get not just down on his knees, but crouch even further. So he’s not this huge looming figure and he’ll just start talking to them in whatever language can be mustered. He’ll ask about everything — their children and the work they used to do or whatever, whatever topics seem appropriate as he engages with them.”

“And he always knows how to tell any little old lady, no matter how toothless or haggard or scraggly she might be, that she is the most beautiful woman he’s ever seen and make her believe it.”

“And this, this engagement that I watch with him, this dance that he does as a prelude to taking the photograph, is really beautiful. And it makes everyone relax and [makes them] happy and conversant and feeling like they know him now in a way. And so then, when he asks if it’s possible to take a photograph, they are so excited. And it’s been beautiful to watch over the years.”

Anyone who knows these two architects will recognize their other photography books, “Villages of West Africa: An Intimate Journey Across Time” and “Mediterranean Villages: An Architectural Journey,” but this is possibly the most intimate project they have ever worked on, an ode to a town that has become integral to the fabric of their lives.

Each year the Houses host young architecture students in San Miguel in a summer program, the Center for Architecture, Sustainability and Art (CASA), to “teach them how to design from their soul,” says Cathi. Throughout the book, readers will find these students’ stunning line drawings of San Miguel scenes, from the iconic central cathedral to the facades of homes down hidden neighborhood streets.

“They are drawing by hand, talking, touching, feeling, learning, understanding. [We want them to ask themselves], ‘How do you actually let in what you’re seeing into your heart in a way that it can transform, not only who you are, but transform what comes out into your next project or some other project 50 years down the line?’”

A close-up portrait of an elderly Mexican woman with warm, crinkled eyes and a gentle smile, wearing a blue and white striped rebozo over a red and checkered blouse, against a rustic wooden door.
The Houses hope their book will encourage others to find out more about the reality of life in Mexico.

With text by Cathi and photos by both Cathi and Steven, the two artists hope their book will invoke in longtime visitors a warm remembrance of a favorite place, and encourage anyone who has never been — or who has only ever experienced Mexico through the lens of the U.S. media — to come and see the country’s incredible beauty for themselves.

“We wanted some kind of vehicle that we could say to the people of Mexico — and to the people of San Miguel especially — how much we love them and how grateful we are that the twists and turns of life brought us there in the first place,” says Cathi, “and what an honor and a pleasure it has been for us to live there and work with them all these years.”

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of “Mexico City Streets: La Roma.” Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at mexicocitystreets.com.

Inside Jalisco’s billion-dollar hotel boom

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Jalisco is receiving billions of dollars of investment to kick start luxury developments across the state. Here are some of the most exciting. (Inspired Pencil)

There’s a transformation unfolding in Jalisco, and it’s happening at the pace of a luxury check-in. With more than US $1 billion in new hotel investments slated between now and 2028, Mexico’s central Pacific state is turning into one of its fastest-growing hospitality hubs.

The new developments span 38 hotels across Puerto Vallarta, the Guadalajara metro area, Costalegre, and the state’s mountain and lake towns, collectively adding 4,578 rooms to Jalisco’s hotel inventory. Already the second most robust state for hotel offerings in Mexico (after Quintana Roo), Jalisco is positioning itself as the Pacific Coast powerhouse of tourism.

What makes Jalisco’s growth particularly compelling is its range. The hotel projects are scattered across the state, from the capital city streets of Guadalajara to the quiet pine forests of Tapalpa, and from Puerto Vallarta’s beaches to the quiet corners of Costalegre.

Tezcalame

Tezcalame
(Costalegre Real Estate)

Costalegre, the quiet, in-the-know region that runs along the Pacific shoreline between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo, is set to receive an ambitious luxury project. Situated in the municipality of Tomatlán, about 73 kilometers south of Puerto Vallarta and 79 kilometers north of Costa Careyes, Tezcalame is a 451-hectare master-planned community bringing another wave of high-end coastal living.

Anchored by a resort from Chablé Hotels, known for its wellness, design, and luxury accommodations. The US $230-million investment of Tezcalame will also feature a second international brand and a reserved oceanfront parcel earmarked for a future five-star property. 

Beyond its resort components, Tezcalame will have five distinct enclaves offering estate lots for custom-designed villas. Residents will have access to a beach club and boutique beachfront homes. A golf course is also in the works, as are tourism board-backed boating routes that will run from Puerto Vallarta to Punta Perula to Barra de Navidad, according to Miguel Andres Hernandez Arteaga, undersecretary of tourism for the state of Jalisco.

Guadalajara

Guadalajara cathedral
(Protoplasmakid/CC BY-SA 4.0)

Inland, Guadalajara continues to evolve as a destination for business, tech, culture, and lifestyle travel. The state capital is receiving a sizable chunk of the hotel boom. InterContinental Hotel Group (IHG) will open seven new properties across the metro area, with a total investment of US $165 million. These are expected to range from urban business hotels to more lifestyle-oriented brands. Melia is investing an additional $45 million in its brand-new ME by Meliá hotel. 

Hiton and Marriott are also doubling down in Guadalajara with $90 million and $65 million in investments, respectively, spread across four hotels each. The expansion of these global brands shows growing visitor numbers, but also Guadalajara’s increasing role as a commercial and convention center in Mexico. 

Suites Lineup, investing $20 million, is targeting long-stay travelers with apartment-style accommodations, indicating Guadalajara is becoming attractive to digital nomads and extended-stay business professionals.

World Hotels is putting $13 million into a luxury property in the city, too.

Boutique Hotels in the Mountains and Lakes

Tapalpa, Jalisco
(en-mexico)

Not all of Jalisco’s hotel growth is about international chains or beach resorts. Several investments are heading into the state’s interior, particularly its Pueblos Magic’s and nature-based getaways. 

Tapalpa, tucked in the forested highlands, is welcoming two boutique hotels from Prada Collection with a US $8 million investment. Serenzzo Tapalpa is contributing another $2 million to a stylish, locally inspired retreat. These mountain destinations have long been weekend escapes for Guadalajara residents, but increased investment is helping them become destinations in their own right.

San Juan Cosalá, on the north shore of Lake Chapala, is another area gaining attention. Known for its thermal waters and small lake town aesthetic, it will soon be home to Shaalam, a wellness-oriented boutique hotel with a $6 million price tag. The development reflects the growing appeal of spa and retreat tourism around Mexico’s largest lake.

Meanwhile, eight independent hotels across the state have pledged a combined $100 million in investment. These will likely expand offerings in smaller towns and off-the-beaten-path destinations.

Infrastructure and Momentum

Puerto Vallarta Airport
(Puerto Vallarta Airport Transport)

These hotel investments are part of a broader push to elevate Jalisco’s role in Mexico’s tourism economy. The Puerto Vallarta International Airport, already one of the busiest in the country, is undergoing major expansion, with a new terminal set to boost both domestic and international capacity. This, combined with growing air connectivity to Guadalajara and the budding airport in Costalegre, positions the state for continued tourism growth from North America and beyond.

With 11 million visitors in the first four months of 2025, according to the tourism board, Jalisco is on pace for another big year. The state currently has 2,821 hotels and more than 83,000 rooms. By 2030, the goal is to surpass 90,000.

Much of this development is driven by big-picture momentum. With Guadalajara set to co-host the 2026 FIFA World Cup, the state is bracing for a wave of international visitors. Twelve of the 38 new hotels are scheduled to open before the tournament.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

 

Where to Travel in Mexico 2025 Guide: Road trippers

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Cenote Suytun, Yucatán
Mexico has no shortage of road trip options, with some truly mind blowing destinations along the way. (All photos by Nellie Huang)

The wind is whipping through my open window, the horizon stretches for miles into the far distance, my favorite tune is blasting through the car stereo and there’s no one on the road except for our trusty red Volkswagen Beetle. 

Road trips are my favorite way to travel — there’s an undeniable magic to the open road that always gives me a free and untethered feeling, punctuated with unscripted moments and spontaneous detours in between.

Mexico — with its soaring mountains, sun-drenched coastlines, vast deserts and lush jungles — is tailor-made for road trips. In the past four years of living in Mexico, I’ve been fortunate enough to crisscross many of its states behind the wheel, from the twisting roads of the Sierra Madre to the jungle paths of the Yucatán Peninsula and the desert highways in Baja California. Each journey has not only shown me Mexico’s beauty but also given me a deeper understanding of its incredible diversity.

With that, I bring you another installment of Where to Travel in Mexico 2025, a series that uncovers prime locations across Mexico tailored for specific travel styles, whether you’re a digital nomad, family traveler or beach lover. For a travel writer who loves the sense of discovery around every bend, putting together this installment has been plenty of fun. I’ve mapped out five exceptional routes that promise stunning scenery and exciting adventures. So buckle up — it’s time to hit the road!

Yucatan Peninsula: For first-time visitors

From my own experience living along the Caribbean coast for two years, I can safely say this is, hands down, the best route for those who are new to Mexico. The all-encompassing loop route is a highlight reel of the best sights in the Yucatan Peninsula, from ancient ruins and colonial towns to the natural sinkholes called cenotes and sugary-sand beaches with calm, spearmint water. Driving Highway 307, which runs parallel to the Caribbean, is straightforward, but the real joy comes from the detours.

Spend a few days kicking back on the beaches of Cancún, then head west to the historical town of Valladolid. Explore Chichén Itzá, Mexico’s best-preserved archaeological site, before cooling off in the cerulean freshwaters of Cenote Saamal and Cenote Suytun. Continue west to the charismatic yellow town of Izamal and eventually you’ll reach the food haven of Mérida, where I’ve had some of my best meals in Mexico. Drive back to the coast to swim or kayak in the crystal-clear waters of Laguna Bacalar. Then it’s time to head north to Tulum, where you can float along the ancient canals of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve or hop over to Cozumel island to dive the Mesoamerican Reef, the world’s second largest.

Tip: Set aside two to three weeks for this road trip — the key is to take things slow and not rush it. The federal highway has quite a few military checkpoints; remain calm and stay in your car.

Baja California: For the outdoorsy type

Snaking into the Sea of Cortez like a serpent, Baja California is a peninsula blessed with some of Mexico’s wildest and most rugged landscapes. Here, the cacti-studded desert meets the ocean, and craggy mountains frame wide, sweeping beaches. For me, part of what makes driving Baja California so incredible is the surprising quality of the roads, which are some of the smoothest and safest I’ve driven in Mexico.

The Transpeninsular Highway, also called Highway 1, zigzags its way through the entire peninsula, connecting the picturesque vineyards and mission towns in the north with the coastal towns and wildlife-rich marine reserves of the south. The grand traverse — starting from Tijuana all the way to Los Cabos in the southern tip — is a rite of passage, particularly for Americans who live right across the border. 

Start your epic journey with wine-tasting in Valle de Guadalupe, don’t forget to snap some shots in Cataviña Desert before stopping for fish tacos in Ensenada. Continue to the historic towns of San Ignacio and Loreto, before making a detour to Magdalena Bay to encounter some grey whales. Then, go swimming with whale sharks or snorkeling with sea lions off La Paz. Just before reaching Los Cabos, stop at the boho town of Todos Santos, where you can wander its art galleries and also release baby turtles. 

Tip: To complete the whole journey, you’ll need at least three weeks. But if you can’t swing it, simply focus on the northern desert section — Tijuana to Guerrero Negro — or just the southern stretch from Loreto to Los Cabos if you’re more of a beach person. 

Oaxaca: For brave souls

If there’s one road trip in Mexico that I find myself daydreaming about, it’s the spectacular journey from the foodie paradise of Oaxaca city down to the state’s untamed Pacific coastline. Separated from the city by the rugged Sierra Madre del Sur mountains, the Oaxaca coast is dramatic, largely undeveloped and studded with golden strands, surf towns and fishing villages.

A new 104 km superhighway now connects the city with the coast, reducing the drive to just 2.5 hours each way. But if, like me, you enjoy the adventure that comes with epic mountain roads, take the long detour on the curvy Highway 175 that climbs into the mountains. Featuring endless twists and turns, It’s not for the faint of heart, but you’ll feel the air change and watch the landscapes shift from agave fields to colossal mountains covered in pine forests.

Leaving the buzz of Oaxaca city behind, make a stop in Miahuatlán, where you can sample mezcal in small, family-run palenques, or mezcal distilleries. Then start the climb into the mountains and stop for the night in one of the wooden A-frame cabins that dot San José del Pacífico, a mountain town renowned for its magic mushrooms. From there, the route snakes down to the coast, where you can explore the scenic bays of Huatulco by boat, watch sunsets at the nudist beach in Zipolite, visit the Mexican Turtle Center in Mazunte or challenge yourself to some big-wave surfing in Puerto Escondido.

Tip: This epic road trip requires 10 days to two weeks. Be sure to set aside at least five days in the culture colossus of Oaxaca city. Look out for the ubiquitous potholes and unmarked speed bumps! 

Central highlands: For culture vultures

For those seeking to take a deep dive into Mexican culture, this road trip will unpeel Mexico’s layered history and indigenous heritage. The loop route takes you from Mexico City through the central highlands and into the heart of Michoacán, a region steeped in Purépecha culture. 

It’s designed for travelers who are curious about ancient civilizations and who delight in discovering artisan traditions and ancestral cuisine. I highly recommend timing your road trip to coincide with Día de Muertos, where locals honor their deceased loved ones with overnight cemetery vigils and the towns are blanketed in cempasuchil (marigold), candles and incense.

Leave Mexico City behind and make your first stop at Querétaro to admire its impeccably preserved historic center and the majestic arches of its aqueduct. From there, get lost in charming San Miguel de Allende — one of the highlights of Mexico for many and the reason we chose to live here —  popping into art galleries, artisan boutiques and rooftop terraces perfect for watching the sunset. 

Then traipse the steep streets and subterranean tunnels of Guanajuato before looping south to Michoacán and its state capital, Morelia, a colonial masterpiece in its own right. End your trip with a bang at Lake Pátzcuaro, wandering the colonial enclave of Pátzcuaro, taking a boat to the island of Janitzio and exploring the archaeological site of Tzintzuntzan, the ancient capital of the Purépecha Empire.

Tip: Plan at least three weeks for the entire road trip, or cut it in half by ending the trip in Guanajuato. Roads in this region are not the best, so always opt for toll roads.

Pacific coast: For cosmopolitan travelers

Serving up a cocktail of experiences, this road trip is a fantastic match for travelers who love variety. Driving this route, we felt like we’d crossed borders and lived a range of experiences on one single journey. You’ll get to soak in the vibrant city life, sample everything from hearty birria to fresh-off-the-boat aguachile and artisanal tequila, kick back at the sun-kissed beaches and get lost in historic towns with plenty of stories to tell.

The drive starts in Mexico’s second largest city, Guadalajara, the birthplace of mariachi music, charrería traditions and a plethora of classic Mexican dishes. Take Highway 15 to Tequila, a small town with a big place in Mexican culture, and take a tour of the distilleries and agave plantations. Driving further west, you’ll reach the duo beach towns of San Pancho and Sayulita, with exciting outdoor activities like turtle releases and surfing. On your way to Puerto Vallarta, stop at the attractive Punta Mita peninsula for some of the best seafood in western Mexico. 

Be sure to make a detour to the Marietas Islands, where you can swim to a hidden beach nestled inside a crater-like formation. Further north along the coast, make a pitstop at the islet of Mexcaltitlán, a fishing village said to be the ancestral homeland of the Mexicas (Aztecs). The route ends in Mazatlán, the pearl of Sinaloa, where you can spend days wandering its beautifully restored historic quarter.

Tip: Plan to spend at least 10 days on this drive. Check the current security situation in Sinaloa before traveling to the state.

What’s right for each type of traveler?

We’ve put together a table summarizing which destination would suit travelers based on their experience in Mexico.

Beginner travelers are those with limited international experience; maybe this is their first trip to Mexico. Ideal for first-timers who prefer margaritas with training wheels. These travelers stick to well-trodden paths, mastering “¿Dónde está el baño?” while clutching a phrasebook. They thrive in destinations where guacamole arrives with optional spice and the hotel staff speak Google Translate.

Intermediate travelers are those with some international experience who can handle moderate language barriers and cultural differences. Ready to trade resorts for real-deal experiences, these travelers navigate cobblestone streets without face-planting. They’ve graduated to ordering “tres tacos al pastor” without pointing and can haggle for a sombrero in Oaxaca’s markets… but still overpay by 20%.

Advanced travelers are those with extensive experience navigating complex destinations independently. These wanderers treat Mexico like a choose-your-own-adventure novel written in Spanglish. They’ve adopted a street dog named Churro, debate the merits of different artisanal mezcals and know which mercado stall has the best tamales oaxaqueños.

​​Nellie Huang is a professional travel writer and author based in San Miguel de Allende with her family. She has contributed to BBC Travel, CNN, International Business Times, and National Geographic, and co-authored Lonely Planet’s 2025 Mexico guide. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.

Artist Jaime Colín’s new exhibit creates beauty from environmental destruction

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Black and white photo of artist Jaime Colín, a man with short dark hair, smiling and looking directly at the camera. He is crouched inside a large circular opening, with a staircase visible behind him and natural light illuminating a tree-like structure outside the opening.
Jaime Colín’s new exhibition, “Geological Spiral: Archives of a Transformed Landscape,” is currently on display at the San Miguel Art Loft in San Miguel de Allende. (Jaime Colín)

The concept of the Anthropocene era — a new geological period coined to document humanity’s impact on Earth — is the subject of recent drawings, paintings and digital graphs by award-winning Mexican visual artist Jaime Colín.

In this series of artworks, Colín, based in Cuernavaca, uses satellite imagery and cartography to produce works that demonstrate the devastation wrought by open-pit mining while creating art of great beauty, a paradox that his fans find both entrancing and thought-provoking. 

An acrylic painting titled "Paisaje devastado (cerro devastado), 2023" by Jaime Colín. The artwork depicts an aerial view of a large, terraced open-pit mine with reddish-brown earth tones. Swirling lines define the contours of the mine and the surrounding landscape, with a dark green forested area at the top and a textured blue sky above.
“Paisaje devastado (cerro devastado),” an acrylic painting on medium-density fiberboard (MDF), depicts open-pit mining’s impact on the land. (Jaime Colín)

Colín’s new exhibition, “Geological Spiral: Archives of a Transformed Landscape,” is currently on display at the San Miguel Art Loft in San Miguel de Allende.

Art that documents a transformed landscape

At the exhibition’s opening, gallery owner Debra Broussard discussed how Colín explores the impact upon the land of both natural forces like volcanos and the human-wrought destruction of strip mining. 

“While the volcano is a vital pulse of geodynamics,” she noted, “an open-pit mine is a human scar in its most voracious form. Jaime’s body of work does not explicitly seek to condemn or idealize but to explore that point of tension where the landscape reveals its fragility, its power and its capacity for regeneration. To look at these landscapes is to look at the ways we inhabit the Earth, transform it and perhaps repair it.”

Colín further explained that the Anthropocene era has been defined by scientists as beginning in the 1950s, at the time of the first atomic explosions. 

“They call it the great acceleration,” he said. “In some of my work, I have compared the craters left by volcanic eruptions with those created by atomic explosions… While I typically cannot know what a viewer takes from my work, I hope to plant seeds, to stimulate dialogue.”

A mixed-media sculpture titled "El cinturón de oro, 2021" by Jaime Colín. The artwork features a meandering, multi-layered form with bright neon yellow-green interior surfaces and orange-red edges. It is elevated on slender metal legs and has several clamps or vises attached to its sides, resembling a topographical model or a stylized outline of a landmass.
Colín mixes nature and the synthetic in “El cinturón de oro,” (2021), which combines wood, varnish, gold leaf, plastic and metal. (Jaime Colín)

Human contradictions

Much of Colín’s work subtly explores the contradiction between our horror at the environmental degradation of mining and our reliance on the products and modern conveniences that come from it — our complicity. But Colín is quick to clarify that he does not consider himself an activist. 

“I’m not an activist, nor am I a journalist,” he said. “Those on the front lines risk their lives — a number of young activists from the communities surrounding open-pit mines in various parts of the country have been killed — while I work safely and comfortably in a studio.”

Exhibition guests expressed their appreciation for the subtlety of Colín’s work. 

“Jaime’s art is so beautiful,” said one attendee. “I really love and respect what he’s doing. His sensibility reaches more people, I think, precisely because it’s not so in-your-face.”

Broussard agreed.

“I find it interesting how his work explores this extractive process, but he makes these spirals of the excavations appear beautiful. It’s this wild conflict, perhaps making us uncomfortable — in a good way.”

A childhood spent among mines

Colín’s fascination with the impact of mining on the environment stems from his childhood. Colín grew up in the 1980s in Santa Fe — which is now one of the wealthiest areas of Mexico City — when it was still a village. Open-pit mines were excavated there, and his father worked as a miner. The family lived in simple housing between the mines and huge garbage dumps. With a child’s innocence, he thought it normal to hike through the dump to get to school. He and his siblings even played in the mines. 

Eventually, the government resettled the community in another place, with little compensation, only for Santa Fe to be developed into the expensive neighborhood that it is today. Ironically, some of those expensive homes now have to be propped up on stilts because they’re sinking into the landfill ground where Colín once played.

An acrylic painting titled "Espectro minero I, 2021" by Jaime Colín. The artwork features an abstract, three-dimensional form with undulating layers of vibrant colors, including red, teal, and luminous yellow, against a solid black background. The concentric lines within each colored section suggest contours or topography.
In “Espectro minero I,” from 2021, Colín is likely using the duality of the Spanish word “espectro,” which can mean “spectrum” but can also mean “ghost” to imply mining’s long-term consequences on the earth. (Jaime Colín)

Colín earned a bachelor’s degree in visual arts at the Morelense Center for the Arts and a master’s degree in visual arts and design from the National Autonomous University of Mexico. The two-time winner of competitive federal grants, he has also been invited to exhibit at the Mexico City annual art fair Zona Maco as an emerging artist. He now teaches at the Morelense Center for the Arts.

Viewing the exhibit

Colín’s work may be viewed at the San Miguel Art Loft. To learn more, visit www.sanmiguelartloft.com or contact Debra Broussard at info@sanmiguelartloft.com to schedule a private viewing. The artist may also be contacted directly through his Instagram account @jaisme_colin.

Based in San Miguel de Allende, Ann Marie Jackson is a writer and NGO leader who previously worked for the U.S. Department of State. Her award-winning novel “The Broken Hummingbird,” which is set in San Miguel de Allende, came out in October 2023. Ann Marie can be reached through her website, annmariejacksonauthor.com.

Taste of Mexico: Pitahaya

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Pitahaya Dragon Fruit
(Inspired Pencil)

One of the most exotic fruits in the world is the dragon fruit, also known as pitahaya. While many believe it originated in Asia, it actually comes from southern Mexico, Central America, and parts of South America.

The dragon fruit is visually striking, with its unique appearance and vibrant colors, making it stand out among other fruits we’ve explored in this series. Its flavor is just as delightful as its appearance. The fruit went unnoticed for many years until it reemerged in the 1990s and has steadily gained popularity at our tables ever since.

Pitahaya in slices
(BHG)

Its mysterious origin

The origin of pitahaya, commonly known as dragon fruit, is surrounded by le mystère. We lack archaeological remains or historical sources that can definitively confirm whether this fruit was consumed in pre-Hispanic Mexico.

The first challenge is that the term “pitahaya” comes from the Antilles and means “scaly fruit,” which means there is no indigenous language name to help trace its cultural use or find references in ancient codices. However, we do know that pre-Hispanic cultures were not averse to eating fruits from cacti, so it’s reasonable to assume they might have consumed dragon fruit.

The second challenge is that it likely did not hold the same significance as other fruits, like the prickly pear (tuna), which are featured in foundational myths and pre-Hispanic rituals.So, apparently preHispanic guys weren’t impressed by it.

Nonetheless, the varieties of cactus that produce dragon fruit are domesticated, and no plant domesticates itself. This suggests that indigenous cultures must have consumed the fruit regularly.

Pitaya or Pitahaya?

 

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Both terms are technically correct; however, in common usage, “pitahaya” typically refers to the Hylocereus undatus variety, which is what we commonly call dragon fruit. You can think of “pitahaya” as the name reserved for the fruit’s exotic and stunning cousin.

On the other hand, “pitaya” usually refers to the Stenocereus varieties. We have much more historical information about these varieties, which have been consumed for at least 9,000 years. They resemble prickly pears — rounder in shape, sometimes spiny and sometimes not—featuring colorful skins and pulp that looks like it’s straight out of a Pantone catalog. If you come across them, don’t hesitate to try one — they’re a showstopper in both flavor and appearance.

Are you prepared for a significant transformation?

Recent chemical studies reveal that dragon fruit offers a variety of health benefits:

1. Goodbye, anemia: Dragon fruit is rich in iron and vitamin C, which enhances iron absorption in the intestines.

2. A must for your skincare routine: With its high levels of vitamin C and antioxidants, dragon fruit helps keep your skin firm, stimulates collagen production, and fights premature aging. Say hello to glowing skin!

3. Powerful antioxidant properties: In addition to vitamin C, dragon fruit contains phenols and betacyanins that support cell health and may help prevent chronic diseases.

4. Immune system booster: It encourages the production of white and red blood cells, as well as platelets, which boosts your body’s natural defenses.

5. Supports a healthy gut: Rich in prebiotics and fiber, dragon fruit promotes digestion and overall gut health.

6. Heart-friendly: Dragon fruit may help prevent arrhythmias and heart issues, lower cholesterol levels, and assist in regulating blood sugar.

7. Strong bones: Packed with calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus, it supports bone health and promotes growth in children.

8. Weight control: With 85% water content, dragon fruit also contains tyramine, which encourages your body to use stored fat for energy. It aids in eliminating excess fluids and toxins as well.

Yellow pitahaya fruit
Pitahaya comes in some stunning colors. (Tridge)

An endless variety

Now that you know dragon fruit is the secret ingredient to looking and feeling your best, let’s get to the exciting part—how to eat it:

  • Raw: This is my favorite way to enjoy dragon fruit, as it offers the most health benefits.
  • In drinks or smoothies: Consider trying lime water with dragon fruit or a berry smoothie enhanced with dragon fruit for a powerful boost of antioxidants. Don’t forget to add chia seeds for an extra superfood kick!
  • In desserts: You can incorporate it into gelatin, mousse, or ice cream, which is my personal favorite (in moderation, of course).
  • In salads: I can’t recommend enough this delicious combination: dragon fruit, kiwi, pineapple, almonds, shredded coconut, and mint leaves. For added protein, include tofu, chia seeds, or Greek yogurt. Want something savory? Swap the fruits for avocado and cucumber, and dress it with lemon juice, oil, salt, and pepper. Adding chicken makes it even more delicious!
  • Cocktails: I’ve never been a fan of adding salads to cocktails, but I can’t deny that some recipes are refreshing and delicious. I have to confess that the mezcalita de pitahaya, margarita de pitahaya, and pitahaya gin and tonic taste way too good.

Amigos, even if you’re just experimenting, try including dragon fruit in your diet regularly. You might be surprised at how often people start asking what you’re doing to look so youthful and radiant.

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

Kids, tires and turtles: Our CEO’s whirlwind tour of Loreto in Baja California Sur

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A man in sunglasses in front of a building entrance sign reading Casa Hogar La Esperanza de Loreto
Meeting the children of Casa Hogar de Esperanza was a special part of a recent trip to Loreto, Baja California Sur, Travis Bembenek writes. (Courtesy)

I admit it, the Baja California peninsula wasn’t an area of Mexico that I was initially interested in. I even wrote about how I had to learn to love Cabo and after a particularly memorable trip to the area asked, “Is renting a car in Mexico always a nightmare?” Little by little, I ventured out further from Cabo San Lucas. First to San Jose del Cabo, then Todos Santos, and then La Paz and the stunning Balandra beach area.

As I met more people who have traveled the peninsula, I increasingly heard that the most special parts of Baja are Cabo Pulmo and the areas further north from La Paz. Time and time again I was told stories about the amazing wildlife, the epic beaches, the beautiful mountains and the lack of crowds. Given that my wife and I love nature travel, it was always high on our “next place to go” list. But given the aversion that we have to driving too much on a vacation, we would look at the driving distances and ultimately decide to go elsewhere. It took my college buddy Eric and his family to finally convince us to join them on an adventure up the peninsula to explore these areas. And so a few weeks ago, we did.

We started out with several days in Cabo Pulmo, leaving the comfy confines of paved roads, chain grocery stores and fancy restaurants in Cabo San Lucas and heading out on the dirt road (highway?) leading up the coast along the Sea of Cortez, on the eastern side of the peninsula. Within minutes of leaving the tourist corridor and San Jose del Cabo, things change very quickly. The road becomes unpaved, dusty and curvy, with an occasional burro to avoid hitting. The sweeping views of the sea invite you to stop at random beaches to take it all in. There is almost nobody to be seen.

A burro sticks its nose into a car
Dusty but friendly burros welcomed the travelers as they drove up the eastern coast of the peninsula. (Travis Bembenek)

Cabo Pulmo was a surprise — absolutely full of wildlife despite being less than a two-hour drive from the big cities. You would expect it to be much bigger but in fact, it’s tiny. Forget about the food or lodging quality. Here, it’s all about the wildlife — and we were not disappointed. On our one full day there we spent almost every minute in the ocean swimming with and admiring the marine life. In that one day we swam with dolphins, sharks, moray eels, sea lions, turtles, giant schools of jackfish and countless tropical fish. We have snorkeled around the world and this was one of the very best days ever, hands down.

Our time in La Paz was quick as we had all been there several times before. Just enough time for a nice dinner and lovely evening stroll on the packed malecón and then a few hours at Balandra beach the next morning. And then it was on to Loreto and points further north.

Loreto is famous for the oldest mission in the “Californias” (including Baja California and Baja California Sur in Mexico and the U.S. state of California). Its beautiful beaches and dramatic mountains are also legendary. I had seen pictures and heard stories of the beauty and it most certainly does not disappoint. Our first day in Loreto was a special one, not because of the mission, the beaches or the mountains, but rather some great encounters with locals.

Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek with Loreto Mayor Paz del Alma Ochoa Amador. (Travis Bembenek)

Prior to the trip, a friend from San Diego had told me that I had to meet some people — Linda and Tony — in Loreto when I was there. So I reached out and they invited me to a special event that was going to be happening in town our first full day there. That day started with me going to an inauguration of a new center for children from troubled families called Casa Hogar de Esperanza. After arriving at the center and marking my hand print on the entryway wall, I sat down and listened to the presentation of the volunteers and donors who made the day possible.

There were sad stories of the kids — aged 4-8 — who needed to come to the center after courts ordered their removal from their homes, mixed with absolutely beautiful and inspiring stories of the volunteers and donors committed to giving the kids a peaceful, stable place to get back on track. The event ended with the kids being let into the new center — with each one finding their bed with a personalized water bottle and stuffed animal. The young kids had already been through so much, and yet this simple gesture left them screaming with joy and excitement. It was an incredibly touching moment.

The newly elected mayor of Loreto was there. I spent time talking to her about her priorities for the city. She started by saying “this right here,” meaning the kids and the people of Loreto. She then brought up an unexpected topic: tires. She said that lots of people need cars in the city due to the lack of public transportation. That, combined with less than ideal road conditions, lead to a lot of used and discarded tires.

She said that historically the city and surrounding areas had a tire disposal problem and that the tires ultimately ending up being discarded all over town and even in the ocean. She proudly told me that this week, the first shipment of 1,200 used tires — enough to fill an entire semi-trailer — is going from Loreto to a tire recycling plant near that U.S.-Mexico border. She was passionate about the project and the positive impact on the city and said that they hoped to send a shipment every month or two. Who would have thought tires would be on the mind of the mayor.

A child stands next to a bed with a water bottle and toy
Every child received a toy and a personalized water bottle to welcome them to Casa Hogar de Esperanza. (Travis Bembenek)

After that conversation, I went to see the Eco-Alianza NGO offices in downtown Loreto. Eco-Alianza is the creation of Linda and Tony Kinninger, long time residents of Loreto originally from Southern California. Tony first came to Loreto over 50 years ago and both him and Linda are passionate about the area. Equally enthralled by the raw natural beauty of the area and concerned about the lack of rules, regulations and customs to protect it, they decided to do something about it.

Out of this love for the area and desire to protect it, Eco-Alianza was born over a decade ago. The organization is focused on education, awareness and impact on the natural resources in and around Loreto. They give classes in every school, at every grade level about the importance of recycling, protecting the environment and respecting nature. The children in turn help change the behaviors of their parents and family members. One class at a time, Eco-Alianza is helping create a culture that recognizes that responsible tourism and development can be a driver of economic growth for the city.

The headquarters of Eco-Alianza in Loreto, BCS
Eco-Alianza provides environmental education for Loreto school children of all ages. (Travis Bembenek)

The organization also does water quality sampling and testing and yes, turtle population surveys. The highlight of the tour was a presentation done by every member of the organization on the mission, purpose and activities of each person. The passion and commitment they displayed for their causes was inspiring. I thanked them all for choosing a career with an impact much bigger than just themselves. A group of college kids from Notre Dame University was there doing a project on water. It was like one big family. You can learn more about the great work that Eco-Alianza does on their website.

Many facets of modern day life can be quite troubling. We are constantly innundated with negative news about politics, the economy, climate change, wars, mental health problems, AI existential risks … the list goes on and on and on. It can be both depressing and paralizing — what can we do on a small scale when there are so many big problems? My trip up the Baja coast and short time in Loreto gave me insight into what is likely part of the answer. Whether it be kids, tires or nature, just pick something you are passionate about and believe you can make an impact on — then work hard to make it happen!

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.

Tourism trends in Los Cabos 2025: The year in graphs

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El Arco Los Cabos
Los Cabos is again on pace to break the record for tourists in a single year. What do the numbers look like? (Visit Los Cabos)

At the mid-point of 2025, there’s enough data on tourism in Los Cabos this year to illuminate some clear trends. The overarching one is that the destination continues to grow. No, it’s not showcasing the explosive growth that characterized the post-pandemic years after 2020, when Cabo San Lucas, San José del Cabo, and La Ruta Escénica (formerly known as the Tourist Corridor), which connects them, were recovering the visitors they had lost, and adding new ones at a record pace. Rather, it’s a steady yet nonetheless impressive growth. 

I use the word impressive because if Los Cabos meets the projected 4.13 million tourists it’s on pace to receive this year — a highly likely outcome, considering it’s already halfway there — then not only will it have increased the number of tourists by 5% from the 3.93 million that arrived in 2024, and 7% from the 3.86 million in 2023, but it will have set a new record for annual visitors to the destination for the fourth straight year. 

However, not all the trends this year are upward.

Hotel rates are lower in Los Cabos in 2025

Hotel rates have been rising in Los Cabos for a long time, but have tailed off a bit recently.

For the first time in a very long time, the average hotel rate in Los Cabos has dropped, albeit not drastically so. Still, the $498 average daily rate registered in March 2025 was a significant 10% decrease from the $553 average daily rate only a year earlier, in March 2024; and in April 2025, the hotel rate dropped yet again, to $488.

Do these decreasing rates have anything to do with the slight increase in tourists? Probably not. Los Cabos’ conscious rebranding of itself as a tourist destination has been ongoing for a decade, and the destination’s record-breaking growth during that timeframe happened as hotel rates were continually rising. So there appears to be little to no correlation between tourism numbers and hotel rates, although for those who think Los Cabos has gotten too expensive, lower rates are certainly a welcome change. 

What’s interesting, though, is that these rate decreases haven’t happened consistently across the board. In Cabo San Lucas, home to 9,474 hotel rooms (more than San José del Cabo and La Ruta Escénica combined), room rates haven’t decreased at all over the past year. Indeed, they’re up 5% to US $355 nightly on average. The biggest decrease in rates has occurred in San José del Cabo, where room rates are down by 18% relative to 2024 numbers, and are now positively bargain-like at $279 nightly. Room rates have also dropped by 6% in La Ruta Escênica, by far the most expensive area, decreasing to $665 per night on average.

Why? It likely has something to do with maintaining desired occupancy rates, as Cabo San Lucas was at 78% as of April 2025, compared to 70% for San José del Cabo and La Ruta Escénica. It might also have something to do with the larger number of domestic travelers.

Domestic travel to Los Cabos is up in 2025, while international travelers are slightly down

That’s part of a larger upward trend for tourism in the destination over the past 25 years, derailed briefly by the coronavirus pandemic in 2020.

Through the first four months of 2025, domestic tourism was up 8.5%, accounting for nearly half a million visitors (463,200, to be exact). International tourism, on the other hand, was down slightly (0.4%) from the same period a year previously, although this segment still provided the bulk of visitors (913,000). 

The origin proportion for travelers in 2025 (67.9% international, 32.1% domestic) represents quite well the number of airport destinations serving Los Cabos from the U.S. (32) versus those from within Mexico (16). But because the domestic flight destinations are double what they were a decade ago, that segment is providing a much bigger piece of the overall pie.

Domestically, Mexico City has the biggest market share, accounting for 35% of national visitors to Los Cabos, followed by Jalisco at 21%. Internationally, the U.S. continues to be the biggest market, with 37% of visitors to Los Cabos hailing from California. Canada, the second largest international market, has provided over 4.1% more travelers to Los Cabos in 2025, somewhat offsetting the 4.9% fewer from the U.S.

Big picture, as noted, tourism is up in Los Cabos by 5% in 2025. This is in contrast to Cancún, which dwarfs Los Cabos in overall numbers, but has seen a nearly 5% decrease in overall tourists arriving by air this year.

The return visitor rate to Los Cabos is up again, and it’s a significant marker

Over four million tourists are expected to visit Los Cabos this year.

The return visitor rate to Los Cabos was 38% as of March 2025, close to the high-water mark for this stat (40% in 2021). It’s significant as it reflects the satisfaction level of visitors with the destination, but how significant is somewhat hard to tell, since so few destinations around the world track it (or at least report it). 

Las Vegas is one of the few, and noted that 86% of its visitors were repeat visitors in 2024, versus only 14% first-timers. Los Cabos isn’t in that range, but since no other destinations in Mexico released repeat visitor figures in 2024, it may well be setting the standard domestically

Why does this matter? Because it’s reportedly 15 to 20 times more expensive to get new visitors than it is to retain old ones. 

Los Cabos is doing well on wellness

In the past 25 years, Los Cabos hotels and resorts have increasingly competed with one another to provide the best spa and wellness options. There’s a reason for this: namely, that the world wellness market is now valued at over 650 billion dollars annually, a staggering number that is only expected to increase in the years to come. 

In Los Cabos, about 18% of visitors report that wellness is an important part of their travel experience. That’s something those in the hospitality realm locally love to hear, since wellness-minded guests typically have a high satisfaction rate (about 91%) but spend $3,000 per trip on average, a number in line with the destination’s focus on luxury. 

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

 

The MND News Quiz of the Week: July 13th

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News quiz
(Mexico News Daily)

What's been going on in the news this week? Our weekly quiz is here to keep you on top of what’s happening in Mexico.

Get informed, stay smart.

Are you ready?  Let’s see where you rank vs. our expert community!

Mexico beat the United States in soccer's CONCACAF Gold Cup final this week. How many titles have they won?

Hundreds turned out at a protest in Mexico City last week. What were they protesting?

Which Mexican city was named "Best Small City in the World" by Travel + Leisure Magazine?

An American citizen identified only as "James" was arrested in México state earlier this week. Why?

Mexico's Isaac Hernández made his debut in New York this week. What was he doing?

Which European nation has invested US $3.7 billion in Mexico so far in 2025?

Mexican Security Minister Omar García Harfuch caused a minor diplomatic incident this week by revealing an intercepted drug trafficking aircraft took off from which country?

The Mexican government has announced plans to build new airports in 5 new cities across the country. Which one of these is not one of the proposed sites?

The Mexican government has unveiled a new sweet treat as part of public health measures to control obesity in the country. What is it?

What book is President Claudia Sheinbaum currently reading?

The awkward truth behind Mexico City’s ‘anti-gentrification’ protests

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Last week's anti-gentrification protests were the latest sign of price rises caused by remote workers in the capital, but is targeting foreign residents fair? (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about “gaming the system” in Mexico: that is, taking advantage of the ability to earn in — or draw income from — one economy, and live and spend in another, one with a much lower cost of living. It’s a topic I’ve written about many times before. But this one seemed to strike a nerve.

In the comments section, many readers took issue with the phrasing, particularly. I’d sum them up like this: “We learned Spanish, we treat people well, we’re involved in the community, we do volunteer work. How crass to equate our way of life with cheating!”

Foreigners in Mexico are bringing an eroding gentrification phenomenon that heavily affects the local population.
Whether you like it or not, remote work in Mexico is providing a leg up most Mexicans can’t afford. (Edgar Negrete Lira/Cuartoscuro)

One of the topics I addressed was the inherent unfairness of the economic systems that make living in Mexico a “good deal.” Here’s what I mean.

As a U.S. citizen, I have access to online jobs — albeit precarious ones — that are only open to U.S. citizens. Because these jobs are for U.S. citizens who presumably live in the U.S., the pay is adjusted to the cost of living there. Mexican jobs, on the other hand, are paid considering the cost of living here, which is much lower.

In neither place are most average salaries quite enough to live comfortably, which accounts for some of the migration south.

That means that as a professional in my field, I can earn much more than a professional Mexican in my same field, despite that professional Mexican being just as smart, just as educated, and just as hard-working as I am. While I might live like a queen, they barely scrape by.

Here’s an example: one popular Mexico-based online job is to work as a phone interpreter. To do this job, you must be completely fluent in both languages, which trust me, is no easy feat. You also have to be computer savvy, extremely sharp, and quick on your feet. I myself am fluent in both languages, but wouldn’t dream of trying to work as a live interpreter: it’s too hard, and I’m too spacey. The wage for this extremely high skill that takes years to master? About US $850 a month.

“That’s not a bad wage here,” you might say. I suppose not, especially if you don’t have to pay rent and there are other workers in your household. But it’s nowhere near comfortable, especially if you live in a large urban area. Ask yourself honestly: how well could you live here on that amount, especially if you didn’t already own a home or vehicle?

Line 1 at rush hour.
How comfortable would you be in Mexico if you didn’t have the money for things like private transport? (File photo)

Now, Mexicans do have plenty of “home field” advantages that offset some of this. Immediate family support and property is a big one, for example. Still, none of us can escape the need for money, and the more you have, the easier things get.

By extension, it means I — we — often have much more economic power than they do, despite not being measurably “better” or more deserving than they. We can buy more. We can afford to live in the best areas.

And while this is, let’s be honest, an inherently unfair system, it’s of course not the fault of any one individual. Building and maintaining a system is one thing; taking advantage of it as a worker is another, very human by the way, thing.

Like, I’m sure, many of you, I watched with dismay as the “anti-gentrification” protests played out in Mexico City last week. Most of the protests, let it be said, were peaceful, if a bit rude. “Gringo go home?” Ouch. But some parts were scarier, with actual violence. One particular video clip haunts me: a blonde woman who looks a lot like me ducking in a restaurant as angry protestors lurched toward her.

Yikes.

Any therapist will tell you: the emotion behind anger is always fear born of deep pain.

The issue at hand here is principally the question of who gets access to scarce resources. In this case, the “scarce resources” are the trendiest neighborhoods of Mexico City.

The capital is a beautiful place that attracts people from across the world, but that attraction has an increasingly high price. (Angel Rkaoz/Pexels)

The last time I went to that area of Mexico City was in 2021 to renew my kid’s passport. It was a gorgeous urban landscape with parks and cute cafes everywhere. There were white people everywhere I looked. A trip to the panadería for what would have cost 35 pesos in our own city cost over 200 there, leaving our eyes watering at the checkout counter. “Wait, where are we?”

A place where only the rich can afford to live and play, that’s where.

And that’s the kind of thing that can make lots of people mad — especially if they’ve recently been priced out, which, according to reports, did not make up the majority of the protestors.

Was there some xenophobia at play? Certainly.

But officially, those present were protesting “gentrification,” the process by which an area becomes desirable. Once it does, more people move and open businesses there. As the area increases in popularity, alas, so do its prices. This is true in popular cities all over the world.

Now, I feel there’s an important point to make here: no one is moving to an area and insisting on paying higher prices there. Consumers, as a rule, do not set the prices of what they buy; sellers do. And most of the sellers and business owners in these areas are Mexican.

Anti-gentrification protest Mexico City
Protestors took to the streets in Condesa and Roma Norte, but who is really at fault? (Rogelio Morales/Cuartoscuro)

Really, these angry young people are protesting not against foreigners, but against something much more insidious: unregulated capitalism. It allows prices for basic needs like housing to skyrocket. It allows wages to stay much lower on one side of the border than the other for the same work. It ensures that the nicest, choicest parts of any city are reserved almost exclusively for the well-to-do.

But the protestors can’t see the people who are deciding to evict current tenants in favor of those who will pay big bucks for short-term rentals. They don’t see those who decide that a piece of bread from the panadería will cost 30 pesos instead of five. Capitalists everywhere are clever: they mostly stay out of view, away from any potential wrath.

What they can see are people from other places blithely enjoying these things that they cannot. The fact that some are oblivious to the culture and language surrounding them does not help the matter.

You can’t yell at the concept of real estate speculation or capitalism in the street. But you can yell at a foreigner.

It is obviously not nice for anyone to treat anyone else as a villain because of the way they look or as a result of their foreigner status. It is wrong, and it is sad. And it’s 100% something that white people from North America are not used to dealing with. I’m not saying we’re cosmically due, but it does seem a little unfair, in the grand scheme of things, that one group should be indefinitely exempt from xenophobic treatment.

It’s worth remembering too that Mexico City, with Claudia Sheinbaum as mayor, rolled out the welcome mat for these foreigners by partnering with AirBnB and UNESCO in 2022. Overall, it wasn’t a terrible plan. After all, Mexico depends on tourism for a significant portion of its GDP.

But tourism money coming in is not spread about equally. While you could argue that a low-paid hotel maid benefits from having a job, the real winners are always those who own the places where they land and play.

And when enough people take notice that those left on the outside looking in far outnumber those benefiting, people get upset.

And when lots of people are upset together, rationality does not reign. Be careful out there.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.