The Hotel Xcaret's current attractions include an aviary, a butterfly pavilion and the Coral Reef Aquarium. (Xcaret/Facebook)
Grupo Xcaret this week announced a US $700 million investment to expand and renovate its hotel near Playa del Carmen in the state of Quintana Roo, bringing to US $1.7 billion the new investment announcements made in the Caribbean state this month.
The announcement was made on Thursday in conjunction with the Tourism Ministry (Sectur) during the Cancún Travel Mart, according to the newspaper La Jornada.
Grupo Xcaret executives said the investment aims to transform the Hotel Xcaret México and its eco-tourism park by creating “a strong multi-generational environment that will provide extraordinary experiences for visitors of all ages.”
The Hotel Xcaret already boasts more than 50 natural and cultural attractions, including an aviary, a butterfly pavilion and the Coral Reef Aquarium.
Conserving of natural and cultural heritage
On its website, Grupo Xcaret states its management “is based on a model that ensures the conservation, dissemination and development of natural, socio-cultural and economic heritage for future generations.”
New infrastructure and new construction will increase the Xcaret complex’s capacity to 1,800 rooms in 10 different buildings. When the renovation is completed next year, the hotel will have 16 swimming pools. Additionally, the project is expected to create at least 1,600 new jobs.
Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama has actively wooed investors since taking office in 2022, according to El Heraldo Quintana Roo, and the Grupo Xcaret project is just the latest of several major investment announcements.
On Oct. 9, Royal Caribbean revealed it will invest US $600 billion to redesign the Costa Maya cruise ship port dock near the formerly sleepy fishing village of Mahahual. Sectur reported that the destination was second only to Cozumel in the number of cruise ship tourists in Mexico during the first quarter of 2024.
Speaking at the Travel Mart on Thursday, Tourism Minister Josefina Rodríguez Zamora said the Grupo Xcaret investment — describing it as the largest ever in the sector — reflects confidence in the federal government, but especially in the state of Quintana Roo.
The lawsuit alleges that Mexico's conduct threatens the national security of the United States by damaging domestic steel producers. (Zekelman Industries/Facebook)
Zekelman Industries, the largest independent steel pipe and tube manufacturer in North America, recently filed a lawsuit against Mexico alleging it has violated trade agreements and is dumping steel on the U.S. market.
The lawsuit also alleges that Mexico’s conduct threatens the national security of the United States by damaging domestic steel producers, according to industry publication Metal Center News.
Zekelman alleged these violations have been ongoing, forcing it to close a factory in 2022 while shuttering another facility next year. (Zekelman)
Zekelman claims that Mexico’s steel dumping threatens US $520 billion in total economic output as American. steel producers delay investments, waiting for a better business climate. The lawsuit claims that American national security is being threatened because a healthy U.S. steel industry — which it said supported nearly 1.7 million jobs in 2023 — is critical to supplying that country’s military.
In an Oct. 21 press release, Zekelman alleged these violations have been ongoing, forcing it to close a factory in 2022 while shuttering another facility next year. The closure of these two locations will result in more than 400 American workers losing their jobs, it said.
In addition, Zekelman filed petitions against Mexico with the U.S. Office of Homeland Security (demanding it enforce trade agreements between the United States and Mexico) and the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania (stating that Mexico is discriminating against steel conduit made in Pennsylvania and violating the Pennsylvania Trade Practices Act).
The company’s executive chairman and CEO, Barry Zekelman, insisted that the U.S. government is failing to enforce trade rules, according to Metal Center News.
“The American steel industry is being damaged and American workers are paying a price,” Zekelman said.
Steel exports from Mexico to the U.S. on the rise
In March 2018, then-U.S. President Donald Trump imposed tariffs on steel (25%) and aluminum (10%), targeting Chinese imports. In June 2018, Trump extended the tariffs to the European Union, Canada and Mexico.
While negotiating the United States-Mexico-Canada free trade agreement (USMCA) the following year, the United States eliminated the tariffs. In return, Mexico promised to prevent import volumes that exceeded the historic baseline levels established as the 2015-2017 average of shipments.
Under President Claudia Sheinbaum, the new federal government has expressed that it aims to reduce dependence on Chinese imports. (Zekelman)
However, according to the Coalition for a Prosperous America (CPA), a research and advocacy group championing trade-protectionist policies in the United States, steel shipments from Mexico have increased dramatically since 2021, causing declining employment and stunted growth at U.S. steel makers.
According to Zekelman, steel exports from Mexico to the U.S. rose in 2022 to 72% above the historic baseline levels.
An April report by the CPA claimed that official U.S. census data shows that total steel product exports from Mexico to the U.S. in 2023 rose to 36% over the 2015-2017 baseline, and initial 2024 trade data suggests imports will rise again in 2024.
The Sheinbaum administration in Mexico responds
In court filings, Zekelman made clear that it believes Mexico is serving as a trade “backdoor” so that Chinese imports can evade U.S. tariffs. A growing, bipartisan group of U.S. legislators appears to agree.
By bringing materials to Mexico then having those goods improved upon or some value added to them, Chinese products can qualify as Mexican-made and circumvent U.S. tariffs on Chinese goods.
In March, two U.S. senators introduced bipartisan legislation seeking to reinstate the 25% steel tariff.
In response, the Biden administration announced new rules in July that target firms from China and other countries that route shipments of steel and aluminum through Mexico to try to evade tariffs.
Now, reported CNBC, “duties on steel and Mexican products that were melted or poured outside of North America, or aluminum either cast or smelt in China, are included in the tariffs policy to ease concerns that Chinese steel and aluminum are coming into the U.S. under the USMCA.”
Under President Claudia Sheinbaum, the new federal government has expressed that it aims to reduce dependence on Chinese imports and strengthen the USMCA.
And earlier this month, Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard said that Mexico “will mobilize all legitimate interests in favor of North America.”
Televisa chairman Emilio Azcárraga leaves Mexico City's Azteca Stadium, which is owned by his company. (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)
Emilio Azcárraga, executive chairman of Mexican mass media corporation Grupo Televisa, has gone on leave amid a United States government investigation into Televisa’s allegedly corrupt dealings with FIFA.
In a report on Thursday detailing its third quarters results, Televisa said that it had approved a “proposal” from Azcárraga to take immediate leave pending the resolution of a United States Department of Justice probe into the company’s business dealings with FIFA, the world’s governing body of association football, or soccer.
In early 2023, Televisa reached a US $95 million settlement to resolve a lawsuit filed in the United States by investors who accused the broadcaster of bribing FIFA officials to win rights to four World Cup tournaments (2018, 2022, 2026 and 2030).
Argentine businessman Alejandro Burzaco testified in 2017 that Televisa and Brazilian media organization Globo teamed up with a marketing firm to pay a $15 million bribe to a FIFA executive to secure broadcasting rights to the 2026 and 2030 World Cups.
“Televisa denied wrongdoing in agreeing to settle,” the newspaper said.
The outcome of the investigation could substantially impact he finances of Mexican media behemoth Televisa. (Cuartoscuro)
In August, the Mexico City-based broadcaster said it was being investigated by the Department of Justice, and noted that the outcome of the probe could have a “material impact” on the finances of the company, which is the owner of United States-based television network Univisión.
Few details are known about the investigation, but it is linked to the FIFA bribery allegations. Televisa said it is cooperating with U.S. authorities.
Azcárraga, a grandson of Televisa’s founder, had been a leader of the company since the death of his father in 1997. He was CEO until 2017 before stepping back from the day-to-day management of the company and becoming executive chairman.
With the chairman going on leave, it will be the first time in Grupo Televisa’s 94-year-history that the company won’t be led by a member of the Azcárraga family, La Jornada newspaper reported.
Emilio Azcárraga – described by the Financial Times as “one of Latin America’s most powerful business leaders” – also runs a Televisa-affiliated company that owns professional Mexican soccer team Club América and Mexico City’s cavernous Estadio Azteca (Aztec Stadium), which will host the first match of the men’s FIFA World Cup in 2026.
It was unclear whether the 56-year-old Televisa chairman will return to his position once the investigation concludes in the United States. That decision would appear to hinge on the outcome of the probe.
Televisa is the world’s largest Spanish-language broadcaster and has played a highly influential role in Mexico over the decades, including via its symbiotic relationship with the Institutional Revolutionary Party during the 20th century, when the country was virtually a one-party state.
The activity of Don Goyo, as the volcano is known, prompted México state authorities to prepare to evacuate several municipalities in case the eruptions intensify. (Alaín Hernández/Cuartoscuro)
Mexico’s Popocatépetl volcano has been active this week, prompting advisories from Civil Protection authorities and forcing the Puebla International Airport to suspend operations Friday morning.
The National Disaster Prevention Center (Cenapred) reported 45 exhalations since Oct. 15. As of Thursday morning, the volcano recorded over 1,000 minutes of tremors during the previous 24-hour period.
The National Disaster Prevention Center (Cenapred) reported 45 exhalations since Oct. 15. (Jakub Hejtmánek/Wikimedia Commons – Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0)
The activity of Don Goyo, as the volcano is known, prompted México state authorities to make arrangements to evacuate nine municipalities should the eruptions become more intense, according to the newspaper El Sol de México. Although the increased activity has nearby communities on alert, one pyroclastic cloud this week prompted observers to recall the famous Mexica legend of Prince Popocatépetl and the nearby Iztaccíihuatl volcano, which means “sleeping woman”, in Nahuatl. (Popocatépetl means simply “smoking mountain.”)
According to Mexica Aztec legend, the princess Iztaccíhuatl was in love with Popocatépetl, one of her father’s warriors. The emperor sent Popocatépetl to war, promising him Iztaccíhuatl as his wife when he returned (though presuming he would die in battle).
On Wednesday afternoon, Popocatépetl emitted a huge fumarole that split in the middle, eventually taking the shape of a giant heart. (X)
Iztaccíhuatl was falsely told Popocatépetl had been killed and, believing the news, she died of grief. When Popocatépetl returned to find his love dead, he took her body to a spot outside Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City) and kneeled by her grave. The gods covered them with snow and transformed them into great mountains. According to the legend, that was how Popocatépetl became a raging volcano, raining fire on Earth in blind fury at the loss of his beloved.
Popocatépetl, one of the world’s most dangerous volcanoes
Popo, a 17,694-foot-high volcano, is 70 kilometers (43 miles) southeast of Mexico City. Prevailing winds typically direct ash clouds to the east toward Puebla state. Friday’s volcanic activity forced the cancellation of several flights at Puebla City’s airport.
The National Meteorological Service issued a report on Friday morning that visibility was sufficient to track Popocatépetl’s activity. and Meanwhile, Cenapred maintained its 24-hour Volcanic Alert Signal at Yellow 2, meaning eruptions and emission of ash, gas and water vapor are possible.
The institution warned civilians to stay away from the mountain, since incandescent fragments could be hurled from the crater and advised residents of the region to pay heed to messages from local Civil Protection authorities.
Despite major government investment over the past six years, Pemex still has a debt of around US $100 billion. (Shutterstock)
Mexico’s heavily indebted state oil company has a new CEO, and will take a new direction during the six-year term of President Claudia Sheinbaum, an internal Pemex document indicates.
The document, seen this week by the Reuters news agency, indicates that Pemex will develop new business models to attract investment during Sheinbaum’s 2024-30 administration.
It also shows that Pemex will ramp up deepwater oil exploration, and that the state-owned company is aiming to increase its hydrocarbon reserves and ensure their restitution during the coming years.
But the “rescue” of Pemex that López Obrador frequently spoke about is still far from complete, as demonstrated by the company’s levels of debt and its oil production capacity, which is just half what it was 20 years ago.
Despite former President López Obrador’s efforts to keep the struggling state oil company afloat, Pemex’s financial woes continue. (lopezobrador.org.mx)
Pemex currently produces around 1.5 million barrels per day (bpd) of oil, compared to more than 3 million bpd in 2004. Reuters reported that by “adding condensate, a natural gas liquid that is similar to a very light crude oil,” Pemex’s production is 1.8 million bpd.
When he was announced as the next CEO of Pemex in August, Rodríguez, an energy economist and engineering academic, attributed the decline in oil production to “geological maturity [of oil fields], lack of investment, carelessness, negligence and a cunning plan to privatize the company” during the so-called neoliberal period of 1982 to 2018.
New business models
Citing the internal Pemex document it saw, Reuters reported that the state oil company will seek to develop new business models to attract external investment, something that López Obrador — a staunch critic of the 2013 energy reform — did not seek.
In August, Reuters reported that the Sheinbaum administration would “encourage state oil producer Pemex to seek equity partnerships with private oil companies, a model out of favor with the current president, in a bid to boost reserves amid towering debt.”
Sheinbaum named Víctor Rodríguez Padilla, an energy engineer and an economist, to lead Pemex as she starts her term as president. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)
The news agency said that information came from “four sources familiar with the matter.”
Partnerships with private firms would be similar to joint ventures Pemex entered into after the 2013 energy reform, which opened up Mexico’s oil and electricity industries to private and foreign companies.
That partnership, in which Pemex has a 40% stake, dates back to 2017, when the government of former president Enrique Peña Nieto — which enacted the energy reform — was still in office.
Pemex’s oil exploration plans
The López Obrador government faced criticism for investing so heavily in new and existing refineries, with various analysts arguing that the move was unwise as it took money away from Pemex’s more profitable oil exploration business.
Now, the Sheinbaum administration appears set to put more emphasis on exploration.
In addition to intensifying deepwater exploration, the Pemex internal document indicates that the company will maintain onshore exploration, Reuters said.
The document also shows that Pemex will maintain exploration in shallow waters and in areas adjacent to existing production fields.
Efforts will focus on choosing exploration and production projects that offer the “greatest potential for success and profitability,” the document said.
Pemex is partnering with the company Woodside to develop the Trion oil field, as shown in this render illustration of the planned development. (Woodside)
Pemex, Reuters said, will also aim to mitigate the decline of existing oil fields and strengthen the development of new ones.
The Trion field — in which Woodside and Pemex are investing billions of dollars — is expected to produce 110,000 barrels per day (bpd) of crude and 2.5 million cubic meters of gas a day beginning in 2028.
Pemex discovered the field — located at a depth of 2,500 meters about 180 kilometers off the Tamaulipas coast and 30 kilometers south of the Mexico-United States maritime border — in 2012.
The role of Pemex in the energy transition
President Sheinbaum, a climate scientist who worked with the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change that won the 2007 Nobel Peace Prize, has pledged to invest heavily in renewable energy projects during her term in government.
In August, Rodríguez said that Pemex will play a “fundamental role” in Mexico’s transition to greater use of renewable energy sources.
“Pemex won’t limit itself to making oil and gas condensate as it has always done,” the now-CEO said.
“We’re going to do new projects. We’re going to have partnerships with society, with universities, with business people, to do the projects of the future. We’re going to produce wind energy, solar energy, offshore wind energy. We’re going to produce strategic materials including lithium,” Rodríguez said.
Sheinbaum is aiming to increase the participation of renewables in energy generation to 45% by 2030, almost doubling their current participation.
Earlier this month, Sheinbaum noted that crude exports have been reduced in order to increase gasoline production in Mexico’s refineries, and expressed her commitment to advancing the “energy sovereignty” project.
Twenty state legislatures including those in México state, Oaxaca, Puebla, Sinaloa, Sonora, Yucatán and México state ratified the reform, which constitutionally enshrines state dominance in the electricity sector, among other objectives.
As a result of the reform, the Federal Electricity Commission and Pemex will no longer be called “productive” state companies, but rather “public” state companies.
The Bloomberg news agency reported earlier this month that Sheinbaum will “gain increased control over Pemex and the national electricity utility” thanks to the reform, reducing their autonomy and allowing the president to closely align their objectives with those of her government.
Hurricane Kristy's strength peaked as a Category 5 storm on Thursday afternoon. (Conagua)
Hurricane Kristy reached the highest level of the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale as a very powerful Category 5 hurricane Thursday afternoon. However, it quickly weakened on Thursday evening over the open Pacific Ocean, southeast of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula.
According to the National Hurricane Center in the U.S., it weakened to a Category 3 this Friday morning.
According to the National Water Commission (Conagua), the hurricane poses no risk to Mexico due to its location and trajectory. Nevertheless, large swells are expected on the west coast of the Baja California Peninsula today and for the rest of the weekend.
“These swells are likely to cause life-threatening surf and rip current conditions,” the United States National Hurricane Center warned.
Kristy formed from the remnants of former Nadine, an Atlantic tropical storm that re-formed after hitting Belize and moving across Central America into the Pacific over the weekend. It is expected to weaken again into a tropical storm and dissipate early next week.
Predictions for the 2024 hurricane season in Mexico
The tropical cyclone season began on May 15 in the Northeast Pacific Ocean and June 1 in the Atlantic Ocean, including the Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico. Both regions will remain under constant surveillance until Nov. 30, when the season officially ends.
Kristy is the fifth hurricane of the Pacific hurricane season, and the third major hurricane, which refers to storms Category 3 or higher. (NOAA via AP)
However, experts warn that cyclones can form even outside of these dates, which keeps authorities on alert until December.
The forecast for the 2024 hurricane season predicted above-average activity in the Atlantic, with average intensities potentially up to 50% higher than in previous years, as a consequence of the climate crisis. This season, a total of 35 to 41 cyclones are expected, including tropical depressions, tropical storms and hurricanes.
Fifteen to 18 cyclones were forecast for the Pacific Ocean, while the Atlantic forecast predicted 20 to 23 cyclones. As of October 16, the Pacific has recorded 10 cyclonic events while the Atlantic has seen 13. More tropical storms are expected for the coming weeks before the season ends.
The weather forecast for this weekend
On Friday, a large trough over the western Gulf of Mexico and the southeastern region of the country, along with a high-altitude trough and incoming humidity, will bring rain to the northeast, east, and southeast areas of Mexico, including the Yucatan Peninsula.
The rain forecast is as follows:
Very heavy rainfall(50 to 75 millimeters): Tabasco, Chiapas, Campeche and Quintana Roo
Heavy rainfall(25 to 10 millimeters): Guerrero, Oaxaca, Puebla, Veracruz and Yucatán
Moderate rainfall(5 to 25 millimeters): Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosí, Jalisco, Colima, Michoacán, Hidalgo, Querétaro and Mexico state
Light rainfall(less 5 to 25 millimeters): Nuevo León, Durango, Sinaloa, Nayarit and Guanajuato.
From finding that dream "departamento" to getting the "llaves" - all the vocabulary you need to get moved into your new place. (Jakub Zerdzicki/Unsplash)
Planning on moving to Mexico? Thinking of changing your environment and starting the next chapter in your life? Perhaps you want to experience the warm Mexican weather, or maybe you just want a multi-month break on this side of the world.
No matter why you’re coming, you’ll need somewhere to stay. If you’re planning on renting a place.I want you to be prepared with some Spanish words and phrases that you’ll encounter when renting. Having lived in different countries and cities myself, I understand that the renting process can be confusing and sometimes overwhelming, so keep reading to tackle this subject with confidence.
¿Está amueblado este departamento por favor?(Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)
Let’s start with the easiest and most basic term you’ll need:
Departamento (apartment).
With this word, you can start your search
“Estoy buscando un departamento en esta área”. (I am looking for an apartment in this area.)
Knowing this, you can then ask:
¿Cuál es el costo de la renta? (What is the rent cost?)
¿Podría ir a verlo? (Could I go see it?)
Knowing whether a place is furnished is important. So you would ask:
¿Está amueblado? (Is it furnished?)
The term that covers things like water, electricity and internet would be “servicios.” You might ask:
¿Los servicios están incluidos? (Are utilities included?)
If like the apartment and agree to its amenities and features, your landlord (casero or rentero) might ask you for a deposit (depósito) and an endorsement (aval) which is the property that is being proposed as a guarantee for the loan. They might tell you:
Voy a necesitar un depósito y un aval. (I am going to need a deposit and an endorsement).
By familiarizing yourself with these words and phrases you can make the process smooth and easier. Practice writing them on text or challenge yourself by sending your possible landlord a voice message. Don’t be afraid of mispronouncing something or making mistakes. It’s part of the process. Nonetheless, I’ll show you how to pronounce some of these in this article’s video.
Thank you for reading! Here’s hoping you find the perfect place in our beautiful country.
Paulina Gerez is a translator-interpreter, content creator, and founder of Crack The Code, a series of online courses focused on languages. Through her social media, she helps people see learning a language from another perspective through her fun experiences. Instagram: paulinagerezm / Tiktok: paugerez3 / YT: paulina gerez
Many hand-painted rótulos like this one disappeared after they were banned in 2022. (Lisbeth Chávez/Cuartoscuro)
Make Cuauhtémoc colorful again.
That’s effectively what the new mayor of the borough that includes Mexico City’s historic center said Thursday when she announced that rótulos — colorful hand-painted signs — would return to Cuauhtémoc.
More than two years after Cuevas’ polarizing program began, Rojo offered an apology for the removal of rótulos and murals that added color to the streets and markets of Mexico City’s busiest borough.
“It’s time to make an institutional apology,” the mayor said Thursday outside the historic center’s San Juan-Arcos de Belén market, which now has a new rótulo.
Photos of a sandwich vendor’s stall before and after a 2022 Cuauhtémoc borough order that all such signage be replaced with the city government’s logo. (Rotuloschidos/Pintura Fresca/Instagram)
Speaking to rotulistas (rótulo painters), activists, reporters and others, Rojo described Cuevas’ order for rótulos to be removed as “an attempted murder against culture.”
The former mayor’s decision was taken “without studies, without social conscience” and deprived Cuauhtémoc-based rotulistas “of the right to work,” she said.
“… There was a violation of cultural rights … and civil society resisted, with a lot of strength and resilience. We don’t want more abuses of power,” Rojo said.
The mayor — elected in June on a PAN-PRI-PRD ticket — said that her government is seeking partnerships with the private sector to hire rotulistas so that vendors don’t have to cover the cost of making their stalls colorful again.
Llegó el gran día, en mi gobierno: 𝑳𝒐𝒔 𝒄𝒐𝒍𝒐𝒓𝒆𝒔 𝒓𝒆𝒈𝒓𝒆𝒔𝒂𝒏 𝒂 𝒍𝒂 𝑪𝒖𝒂𝒖𝒉𝒕𝒆́𝒎𝒐𝒄 después de años de prohibición, los rótulos volverán a las calles de nuestra alcaldía. Este es un triunfo para el arte popular y la identidad cultural urbana para llenar… pic.twitter.com/pfxS1cY0Od
Vendors interested in having new signs painted on their stalls should express their interest at the Cuauhtémoc government headquarters, said Rojo, who has given the green light for rotulistas to recommence work in the borough.
“Today, finally, color is returning to Cuauhtémoc,” Rojo said.
“This is a triumph for popular art and urban cultural identity,” Rojo wrote.
“… We want a borough that celebrates the creativity of its people and recovers its identity, putting an end to policies that attempted to erase the essence of our neighborhoods. Art isn’t prohibited, it’s lived and shared,” she said.
The Palacio de Bellas Artes, Mexico City’s defining image. (deposit photos)
Who lives here
The heart not just of Mexico City but the country as a whole, the Historic Center is as culturally rich a district as they come. It’s home to a mix of long-term residents, including families, professionals and students. Many of the center’s inhabitants are involved in tourism and hospitality, as well as the arts.
The local demographic spans every age: young adults are drawn to the area for its vibrant culture and proximity to educational institutions, while many seniors have lived here for decades. Even though the wealth spectrum is broad, the majority of residents belong to low to middle-income brackets, working in service-related jobs catering to tourists.
It would be hard to narrow the lengthy list of notable figures who have settled in the heart of CDMX. Leaders from Moctezuma II to Porfirio Díaz to Emperor Agustín de Iturbide, as well as writers like poet Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz and journalist Leona Vicario all called the Historic Center home. For most of the 19th century, the National Palace, situated on the east side of the Zócalo, was the residence and office of Mexico’s president, a tradition resumed by former president López Obrador in 2019 and carried on by President Claudia Sheinbaum.
A brief history of the Historic Center
The Historic Center of Mexico City and the Mexica capital of Tenochtitlán are one and the same. (Thomas Kolle)
In many ways, the history of this area is the history of Mexico City itself. It was here that, according to legend, the Mexica stumbled upon the sign they’d been promised by the god Huitzilopochtli — an eagle eating a serpent on a cactus — and began building the great city of Tenochtitlán in 1325. Years later, following the Spanish conquest of the city in 1521, Hernán Cortés began to transform Tenochtitlán into Mexico City, using the existing Mexica structures as foundations for colonial buildings.
The colonial period saw what is now the Historic Center become the cultural and political heart of New Spain. What had been an open space in Tenochtitlán bordered by palaces became the central square of the new city — officially named Plaza de la Constitucion, it’s better known as the Zócalo and is still one of the largest squares in the world. The Historic Center officially became a neighborhood after Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821.
Significant restoration efforts in the 20th century have helped preserve the zone’s historic architecture and cultural heritage. In 1956, the Torre Latinoamericana was built, becoming Latin America’s tallest skyscraper. While the iconic building no longer competes with those we see on Paseo de la Reforma today, the towering structure has continued to showcase its resilience, defying one earthquake after another.
A guide to the Historic Center today
Mexico City’s Zócalo, before it became pedestrian-only. (Gobierno de CDMX)
Breaking down Mexico City’s Historic Center with the accuracy it deserves could feasibly be a series in itself. In the interest of time, let’s stick to the basic facts: it’s crowded, colorful, chaotic and home to more monuments and museums than anywhere else in the country. It’s equal parts colonial and prehispanic. It’s where you go when you need something extremely specific, like new straps for your leather purse or a box of pastries big enough to feed an entire office building. The Historic Center is never quiet, calm or still, and that’s exactly why it’s never not inspiring.
If you look on a map, Mexico’s beating heart abstractly resembles the boxy shape of a warrior head you might see in an ancient Mexica mural. Its size and unique shape means that the Historic Center is surrounded by many of the other neighborhoods that make up the borough of Cuauhtémoc, including La Juárez, Doctores, Obrera, Tabacalera, Guerrero, Morelos and La Lagunilla, among others, and its east end borders the borough of Venustiano Carranza.
The neighborhood is dotted with major landmarks, including the Zócalo, Templo Mayor, Alameda Central, and pedestrian street Calle Madero. It’s one of the few parts of Mexico City where you can stand in front of a cathedral as magnificent as any in Europe while watching a shaman, fully suited in colorful feathers, body paint and a loincloth energetically cleanse a tourist with a dose of comal smoke. The contrast is striking, and plays well upon the significantly varied elements of Mexican culture.
When not staring at the eye-popping mass of people and architecture, you’re sure to be catcalled by any number of restaurant hosts promising the best chilaquiles of your life with a no-nonsense view of the church. Or, you can keep it moving with a quick indulgence at any of the delicious street carts that line the Alameda Central, the city’s oldest park.
The Templo Mayor archaeological site, the last remains of Tenochtitlán. (Shutterstock)
The Historic Center is great if you love: Buzz from all angles. Equal parts spiritual and social, the ambiance here is like no other. This is not a place for the weary, and requires energy, patience, curiosity and eagerness. A visit to the Historic Center will always pay off tenfold.
What to do in the Historic Center
The Zócalo:Mexico City’s vibrant central square is an ideal place to get your bearings. You’re all but guaranteed to encounter a celebration here, as there’s an almost constant stream of events taking place, from food festivals to the annual Zocalo Book Fair to trampoline tournaments.
Museo Templo Mayor: An extensive archaeological site showcasing ruins of the Great Temple of Tenochtitlán can be seen without entering. Still, going in is worth both your time and money, especially if you can manage a guided tour.
Metropolitan Cathedral: Its architectural characteristics parallel that of Notre Dame and the Milan Cathedral. The fact that Mexico’s foremost church sits on a significant chunk of Templo Mayor brings an added element of mystery.
The grand Zocaló, which marks the center of both ancient and modern Mexico City. (Luis Andrés Villalón/Unsplash)
National Palace: Moctezuma’s palace was destroyed to build the structure we see today, which is now home to a number of important things, like Diego Rivera’s famous murals, a gang of very photogenic cats and the country’s current president.
Palacio de Bellas Artes: Perhaps the most emblematic symbol of CDMX, the Palace of Fine Arts is Porfiriato-era Art Nouveau-meets-Art Deco beauty that holds fascinating art exhibits and a magical opera theater.
Museo Nacional de Arte (MUNAL): From the Mexican masterpieces inside to the incredible structure they’re kept in, a visit to the National Museum of Art is a must for any art lover.
Museo Franz Mayer: Check out the remarkable collection of furniture, ceramics, and textiles from the colonial period to the 20th century, all sitting pretty inside a beautifully restored 18th-century museum.
(Museo Franz Mayer/Facebook)
La Casa de los Azulejos: This former mansion’s iconic facade is adorned with blue and white Talavera tiles, making it an Instagram hotspot. Push past the self-made models and see, or even dine in, the breathtaking Sanborn’s Cafe situated inside.
Calle Tacuba: The section of the longest street in the Americas that runs through the Historic Center is full of historical sites, museums, squares and cafes and perhaps the largest collection of eyewear salespeople anywhere on Earth.
Calle de Donceles: The busy street was once known as the site of a women’s mental hospital and is now a paradise of vintage bookshops, the Museum of Perfume (MUPE) and the gorgeous Teatro de la Ciudad.
Estanquillo Museum: Explore 20th-century Mexican pop culture through the personal collection of literary giant Carlos Monsivaís in this fun and eclectic museum on the corner of the always-bustling Calle Madero.
Where to eat in the Historic Center
A perfect plan is to have a margarita on the rooftop of Círculo Mexicano to admire the beauty of the Zócalo. (Círculo Mexicano/Instagram)
Pasteleria Ideal: Even if you’re not a sweets person, the organized chaos inside CDMX’s largest bakery is the real draw. Have your camera out and ready.
La Peninsular: No, you cannot visit the Historic Center without popping into a dozen cantinas. Might as well start at the oldest still running, La Peninsular, which opened its doors in 1872.
Balcón del Zócalo: Step into one of downtown’s most stylish and coveted restaurants, located in a colonial building that boasts sweeping views of the Zócalo and the Metropolitan Cathedral. While you’re there, try the filete de res en mole negro, a creative spin on an authentically Mexican dish.
La Opera: Perhaps the most refined of all Mexican cantinas, La Opera is the preferred lunch spot of government celebs and history-loving tourists scanning the ceiling in search of the remnants from Pancho Villa’s famous bullet.
Café de Tacuba: The historic café was established in 1912 and still retains a traditional, vibrant character with brightly tiled walls and dramatic archways. Nibble on a rich dish of enchiladas while a nearby guitarist belts out the most popular boleros.
Azulísimo – Comida Mexicana D.F.: Tradition at its finest, from ladies whipping up homemade tortillas at the entrance to colorful dishware to an extensive menu that, of course, includes various fried insects. This is one of multiple Azul restaurants found in CDMX.
Bar Mancera: The elegant interior and bowtie-clad waiters make this historic bar worth a midday mezcal. Its decor will take you back to the colonial era, thanks to graceful, dimly-lit chandeliers and historic paintings.
Roldán 37: Enjoy some truly authentic dishes in this charming, classically-styled restaurant on the lively street of the same name. You’ll feel like you’re at grandma’s house when you bite into the homemade chiles rellenos and tortilla soup.
Zinco Jazz Club: Who doesn’t want to finish a day of sightseeing in a cozy underground venue that was once the Bank of Mexico’s vaults? Enjoy live jazz and plenty of food and drink.
One hidden gem
The recently-revitalized Calle Regina stretches from Calle 20 de Noviembre to Calle Bolívar. The tiny street is lined with beautiful colonial buildings that reflect its rich history and is usually playing host to a vibrant celebration of some sort.
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
Handshake Speakeasy's head bartender Eric Van Beek uses advanced culinary techniques to make the bar's original cocktails. (Handshake Speakeasy/Instagram)
Mexico City is home to the best bar in the world, according to the organization 50 Best, which just published its 2024 list of the best bars in the world. Handshake Speakeasy, an unassuming establishment making impressive cocktails in the hip Colonia Juárez neighborhood, is at the top of that list.
This year’s list, unveiled Wednesday during an event in Madrid, made history by naming the bar. It marked the first time that 50 Best has made a bar outside the U.S. or Europe it’s No. 1 winner.
The world’s best bar’s team. (Handshake Speakeasy/Facebook)
“Thanks to all our guests, friends, and our Handshake family. From Mexico to the world,” the bar’s official Instagram account said after receiving the award.
Located at Amberes 65, Handshake Speakeasy is run by Erick Van Beek, Marcos Di Battista, Alejandra Orozco and Rodrigo Urraca.
Drawing inspiration from the Prohibition era, the bar’s interior design evokes the ambiance of the speakeasies of the time with dim lighting and Art Deco decor in gold and black tones that 50 Best said recalled the F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 1920s novel “The Great Gatsby.” Its downstairs space offers an intimate space for only 32 people.
But it’s the chemistry behind the bar’s drinks and their extravagant flavors that earned Handshake Speakeasy not only the top spot on 50 Best’s worldwide list but also the top spot on its North America list, published in April.
The bar’s team, led by head bartender Van Beek, uses molecular mixology to craft impressive cocktails that are far more complex than what the bar’s minimalist menu might suggest, said the awards organization.
Handshake Speakeasy, located in Mexico City’s Juárez neighborhood, beat out bars for the top spot from around the world.
“Each drink is more complex than meets the eye,” 50 Best said, “often taking 48 hours to craft from start to finish and usually boasting unexpected textures.”
The bar also features an onsite laboratory where the team experiments daily on new cocktails and makes its own bitter, 50 Best noted.
For those visiting, 50 Best suggests ordering the Fig Martini or the Salt N Pepper, a fresh and spicy mezcal drink with strawberries and green peppers.
Apparently not ones to rest on their laurels, the Handshake Speakeasy team, Van Beek recently told Travel + Leisure magazine, plans to expand to Amsterdam with a spot called Shakerato (named after an iced Italian espresso drink) sometime in March of 2025.
How does the voting work?
According to 50 Best, the list is a “snapshot” of the opinions and experiences of 700 experts from all over the world — including renowned mixologists, bar owners and drinks writers — who cast their anonymous votes based on their best bar experiences of the last 18 months.
Booking a table
Reservations are available through OpenTable for one hour and 30 minutes. The maximum number of guests per reservation is six. A deposit of 250 pesos per additional guest is required for groups of five or more.
