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The resplendent quetzal is a gem of Mexican birds

By
Bob Pateman
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The resplendent quetzal
The resplendent quetzal has a long history in Mexico and can still be found in the forests of Chiapas. (American Bird Conservancy)

Quetzals, the godlike birds of pre-Columbian lore, are lovely small, colorful forest dwellers that “twitchers” — as bird spotters like to call themselves — will travel a long way to see. There are five recognized species, plus the eared quetzal, a slightly more distant relation, despite the name. 

While their range stretches from the Amazon to Central America, only one species — the resplendent quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno) — is found as far north as Mexico. This bird has interacted with humans for many centuries. Pre-Hispanic civilizations associated the bird with Quetzalcóatl, the feathered-serpent god of life, light, knowledge and the winds. 

Resplendent quetzal
The Maya and Mexica coveted the quetzal’s long green tail feathers. (lwolfartist/Wikimedia Commons)

A majestic bird of Mayan legend

One Mayan legend tells how the resplendent quetzal is said to have gained its color: It had been an all-green bird until one accompanied the Maya K’iche prince Tecún Umán into battle against the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Alvarado. When the faithful bird landed on the body of the injured Tecún, the legend says, the prince’s blood gave the resplendent quetzal its characteristic red chest feathers. 

The elite societies of both the Mexica and the Maya coveted the bird’s long green tail feathers. Amy A. Peterson and A. Townsend Peterson of the Center for Latin American Studies at Tulane University concluded in a 1992 study that at the height of the Mexica Empire, between 6,20 and 31,000 resplendent quetzals were harvested every year. 

The fact that the birds survived such losses suggests that they were far more abundant in pre-Hispanic times than they are today. These estimates are clouded by the question of whether the long tail feathers might have been plucked and the birds then released. We have no idea what the fatality rate from such treatment might have been.

Centuries later, science finally names it ‘resplendent’

Although long familiar to locals, the bird was not officially recognized by science until 1832, with the work of distinguished naturalist  Pablo de la Llave, who had been involved in the first study of Michoacán’s orchids. 

In 1831, he was appointed director of Mexico’s National Museum of Natural History. De la Llave used this role to publish a small journal in which he described and named several birds, including the resplendent quetzal, as well as the equally colorful rufous-tailed hummingbird.

Where to see the resplendent quetzal

The best spot to see the birds in Mexico is the El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve, located in the central portion of the Chiapas Sierra Madre and known as the “Galapagos of the Cloud Forests.” Designated a state park in 1990 and a UNESCO international biosphere reserve in 1993, the park’s amazing biodiversity includes 997 different plants, 112 mammals and nearly 100 amphibian and reptile species. 

The bird count hovers around 147 species, of which 79 are year-round residents. In addition to the resplendent quetzal, the star attractions here are the highland guan, spotted nightingale-thrushes, the wine-throated hummingbird, the green-throated mountain-gem, the rufous sabrewing and the sparkling-tailed hummingbird. 

If you are a “twitcher,” then you are now in rapture from reading that list and already planning your first visit to this forest biosphere. If you are not a bird-watcher, let me just say that El Triunfo is one of the greatest places in the world to see rare and beautiful birds.

El Triunfo is considered safe to visit, but finding the rarer animals requires both considerable effort and local knowledge, and usually requires joining a tour. A typical trip might include a two-night stay in a mountain cabin, or perhaps a farm around the park’s edge. The resplendent quetzal tends to stay within a set range but, within its home, migrates up and down the slopes. The best time to see this bird is when it’s most active, during the March–April breeding season. At this point,  they gather at higher altitudes.

The bird that eats an avocado whole

The relatively easy access to the forest — both here in Mexico and across the bird’s central American range — has led to several studies over the years, giving us a good understanding of the bird’s life cycle. Its diet consists mainly of fruits, but it might prey on insects, lizards, frogs and snails. It is not a fussy eater and has been seen dining on over 40 different plant species. 

Most dramatically, it has a taste for wild avocados, helping wild avocado trees disperse through the forests. The birds swallow the avocados whole, often to the horror of tourists, convinced that the bird must choke on its giant meal! But having consumed the avocado flesh, the bird will regurgitate the pits. 

The birds like to build their nests in the holes of decaying hollow trees, as far off the ground as possible. The female usually lays one to three eggs, and they are good parents, sharing the task of caring for eggs and young. It is while feeding their chicks that the birds are most likely to add insects and other small animals to their diet.

Resplendent quetzal eating an entire avocado
Yes, quetzals can eat an entire avocado whole. (ryanacandee/Wikimedia Commons)

While the birds have been studied, there have not been regular counts, so any population quote has an element of estimation. The most commonly given figure is between 20,000 and 50,000 birds worldwide, with some estimates more optimistic, but numbers are generally presumed to be declining, although in some well-protected areas, populations might be holding steady. 

Are resplendent quetzals endangered?

Overall, the birds are classified as “near threatened” on the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) Red List, a designation that might be cynically seen as “hedging your bets.”

The main concern is ongoing deforestation. This not only destroys the bird’s habitat but leaves populations increasingly fragmented. Three hundred birds in one forest is a very different prospect for survival than 300 birds spread over six small and isolated populations. 

There are also concerns that climate change might have an impact, perhaps allowing birds such as the keel-billed toucans (Ramphastos sulfuratus) to migrate further up the mountain slopes, where they might compete with the resplendent quetzal for nest holes. 

Mexico-Texas program offers hope for breeding in captivity

There is a need for regular bird counts, which would help direct conservation projects. We need to confirm, for example, if the birds are still being hunted, which would highlight the need for local education programs. Or perhaps a greater concern should be to establish safe migration corridors between the higher and lower forests, through which the birds pass during the year. 

One interesting challenge has been to get the birds to breed in captivity, something that until quite recently was thought impossible. 

Resplendent quetzal in flight
For birdwatchers, it’s worth traveling to the El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve in Chiapas, Mexico, to see the resplendent quetzal in flight. (American Bird Conservancy)

ZooMAT, in Chiapas, with help from the Dallas World Aquarium, has started to solve this problem. By removing the eggs and placing them in an incubator, they have been able to raise a small number of birds in captivity. 

Future captive-bred birds might be released into the wild, increasing numbers and mixing up the DNA and with that hopefully improving the health, adaptability and robustness of the population. For now, however, there is still hope that the wild populations can be protected and will slowly increase in number.

Bob Pateman lived in Mexico for six years. He is a librarian and teacher with a Master’s Degree in History.

An archaeologist’s guide to the ancient Maya city of Calakmul

By
Dr. Pablo Mumary
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Structure II at Calakmul
Structure II at Calakmul is a monumental ancient Maya pyramid. (ant_mela/WIkimedia Commons)

As part of an exploration into Mexico’s long and rich history, Mexico News Daily has teamed up with one of the country’s top Maya experts to examine the ancient world that flourished across Mesoamerica. Follow the links to read Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 and Part 6.

As a professor of Mayan history and an archaeologist, people often ask me where in the Yucatán I would recommend visiting the most. My answer is always Calakmul. The ancient Maya city still exists, although it’s now in the state of Campeche. Situated within Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, its ruins have become a UNESCO site that’s well worth visiting, not just because of the archaeological attractions but also because of the area’s incredible biodiversity.

From discovery to obscurity

Calakmul was discovered in 1931 by botanist Cyrus Lundell, then working for the Mexican Exploitation of Chicle Company. Actually, it was his workers who were extracting resin from sapodilla trees to make chewing gum who discovered the ruins hidden beneath jungle vegetation. But Lundell got the credit.

The presence of two large ancient structures over 40 meters high convinced Lundell to “baptize” the city as Calakmul, which means “two adjacent mounds” in Mayan. Lundell then explored Structure III (often called Lundell Palace), produced the first drawings and maps of the city, and alerted the Carnegie Institution of Washington of what he had found.

The Carnegie was then the most important institution dedicated to Maya area studies, and it soon dispatched renowned archaeologist Sylvanus Morley on an expedition in April 1932, accompanied by distinguished specialists such as Karl Ruppert. 

Calakmul aroused great academic curiosity at the time due to the identification of 103 large stone pillars bearing hieroglyphic texts. Both Morley’s expedition and the one organized shortly thereafter — led by researchers Karl Ruppert and John Denison — focused on these monuments. But despite their efforts, Calakmul fell into academic obscurity until the 1980s.

The rediscovery

William Folan of the Autonomous University of Campeche began work at the site after its rediscovery, with his work continued in the 1990s by Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), led by archaeologist Ramón Carrasco. It was during these more recent explorations that major archaeological discoveries took place, revealing the true importance of this ancient Maya city.

A mask made of jade found at the Calakmul archeological site. It has stones representing its eyes and carved circular embellishments near the figure on the mask's ears.
A jade mask found in Structure VII of Calakmul, likely belonging to one of the late Kanu’l rulers. (INAH)

Today, thanks to the archaeological work carried out at the site, Calakmul stands out as one of the most important Maya cities. Occupied over a long timespan — from the Preclassic through the Postclassic periods — Calakmul was the dynastic capital of some of the most important ruling houses of the Classic period, including the dynasty bearing the Serpent Head Emblem Glyph: the Kanu’l. 

Also, advances in hieroglyphic records have made it possible to determine that the ancient name of the city was actually Uxte’tuun, meaning “the place of the 3 stones,” and to identify the names of different architectural areas, such as Chiku Nahb, where part of the local elite likely lived.

The Serpent Head Emblem Glyph: The Kanu’l Dynasty

Calakmul became the capital of the Kanu’l dynasty at the beginning of the AD 7th century, when ruler Yuhkno’m Ch’e’n II — bearer of the Serpent Head Emblem Glyph — established himself in the city. With his arrival, Calakmul experienced significant population growth and urban expansion, weaving a network of alliances with other political entities that ultimately led to a confrontation with its great rival, Tikal, for control of key trade routes. 

For nearly 100 years, the Kanu’l of Calakmul dominated the Lowlands and prevailed over Tikal, until the death of Yuhkno’m Yihch’aak K’ahk’ — or “Fiery Claw” — after which circumstances took a turn for the worse and Tikal inflicted severe defeats on the Kanu’l, triggering their dynastic decline.

Getting there

The nearest airport to Calakmul is Chetumal International Airport, about 90 kilometers distant, and there is a Maya Train stop at Calakmul. That said, you’ll still have to drive or arrange transportation to reach the ruins. From the town of Campeche, drive to Conhuas via Federal Highway 186, which runs from Escárcega to Chetumal, then take the turnoff at Conhuas toward the Calakmul archaeological zone. However, be aware that this involves an adventurous 60-kilometer drive through dense jungle along a narrow road where extreme caution is required due to numerous wildlife in the Biosphere Reserve. 

Three fees must be paid along the way: one to the National Commission of Natural Protected Areas (CONANP), one to the local ejidal community, and the final at the entrance fee to the archaeological site, which is charged by INAH The site is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

The Northern Area: Chiku Nahb

The sector known as Chiku Nahb stands out, as it is where some of the most beautiful painted murals in the Maya world were found — depicting scenes of everyday life among different social groups in what may have been a marketplace. Unfortunately, however, this area is not available to visit.

The Grand Plaza

So continue to the Grand Plaza, the city’s political and administrative center, where the most important monuments and tallest structures are found. The most notable Structure VII — one of the tallest buildings in the city and still climbable — which offers a panoramic view of the entire area and an amazing frontal view of Calakmul’s great pyramid. 

It was within Structure VII that the famous Calakmul jade mask was found, along with its large ceramic relics. Now housed in the Baluarte de la Soledad Museum in the city of Campeche, the jade mask likely belonged to one of the Kanu’l dynasty rulers of the AD 8th century.

Structure II: The Great Pyramid

Calakmul
The ancient city of Calakmul, Campeche, and its lush surrounding forests are a prime example of Mexico’s incredible cultural and natural heritage. (INAH)

To the south of the Grand Plaza stands Structure II of Calakmul — the great pyramid, which rises over 50 meters high and which can still be climbed. This is highly recommended, as you can see above the jungle canopy all the way to Guatemala. With seven distinct construction phases, the pyramid served as the principal structure of the site, and contains within friezes and modeled, painted masks. It’s considered a “sacred mountain,” where ancestors and principal deities reside. 

Within its walls, archaeologists discovered funerary chambers with jade grave goods and human remains belonging — in the case of Tomb 4 — to Yuhkno’m Yihch’aak K’ahk’, or “Fiery Claw,” one of the Kanu’l dynasty rulers who died at the end of the AD 7th century.

Structure I

Structure I at Calakmul
It’s over 40 meters to the top of Structure I at Calakmul, but well worth the climb. (ant_mela/Wikimedia Commons).

To the southwest stands another notable structure with a highly original name: Structure I. It’s also pyramid-like and worth climbing, despite its 40-meter height. In front of Structure I’s central stairway stand a series of stelae and altars — silent witnesses to the damage caused by looting, with only partial fragments remaining of the monuments that were cut and removed from Calakmul in modern times.

Lundell Palace

To the west, outside the Grand Plaza space, sits Lundell Palace — Structure III of Calakmul — where the botanist resided during his time at the archaeological site and where you can find the graffiti he left for posterity. 

In this building, you will observe the large number of vaulted rooms that make up the construction, the reason it was chosen as a residence both in pre-Hispanic times and by Lundell. In addition, one of the city’s most important tombs was found here: the burial of an individual from the Early Classic period, accompanied by a large ceramic assemblage and jade objects.

The Grand Acropolis

After leaving behind the majesty of the Grand Plaza, head to the Grand Acropolis. This area represented the most valuable part of the city — where part of the site’s elite likely resided — and as such, its architecture is more enclosed, with a notable number of rooms featuring interior benches where these important people rested. These spaces were organized around small courtyards where the daily activities of elites took place.

This area also contains Calakmul’s Ball Court, where ritual and political activities were carried out among the sacred lords of different cities. 

Practical Tips

It is essential to bring water and food, as there are no vendors inside the site. Given the extent of the zone, the humidity and the physical effort required to climb the structures, fatigue can be a factor. Shaded parking, for example, is available, but it is more than 2.4 kilometers from the archaeological sites. The nearest hotels are more than an hour’s drive away.

Please also remember to respect the local flora and fauna, as you are within a biosphere reserve. Lucky visitors may spot howler monkeys, ocellated turkeys, toucans, peccaries and more. 

Pablo Mumary holds a doctorate in Mesoamerican studies from UNAM and currently works at the Center for Maya Studies at IIFL-UNAM as a full-time associate researcher. He specializes in the study of the lordships of the Maya Lowlands of the Classic period.

Safe to visit or not? The truth about traveling to Guerrero

By
Bethany Platanella
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Playa Viva treehouse
Is it safe to Guerrero? If you're staying in a treehouse at Playa Viva, the answer is yes. (Playa Viva)

I land in Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo and, as expected at a tiny airport like this, walk right off the plane onto the tarmac. A wave of toasty humidity envelopes me like a steam room. The sun is high and heavy, everything I’d hoped for from Guerrero’s coast on a bright Thursday in March. Exiting toward the taxi stand with me are throngs of tourists from the U.S., Canada and Mexico, cheerfully dressed in linen tops and straw hats. It’s hard to believe we’d all just landed in a state the U.S. classifies under a Level 4 “Do Not Travel” advisory, citing crime and kidnapping.

Not that the U.S. government is entirely wrong for labeling it as such. In 2023, Guerrero recorded close to 1,900 homicides, and in April 2025, authorities were hit with yet another mass killing in Tecoanapa, one of several that rank the state among Mexico’s most lethal. Acapulco, Guerrero’s biggest city, still posts a homicide rate around 70 per 100,000 residents — it’s regularly considered one of Mexico’s most dangerous cities.

Acapulco
Acapulco is ranked as one of Mexico’s most statistically violent cities. (Visit Mexico)

Traveling through Guerrero

I settle into my hotel-arranged transfer, and we begin our drive along the coast. The scenery is what you’d expect from such a low-income state: clusters of small-town life where stray dogs, coconut candy stalls and the occasional tire repair shop with a peeling yellow facade and shoddily handpainted sign line the roadside. A string of mopeds — imported from China — zip past us, holding one, two or even three riders.

After about 45 minutes, the landscape turns markedly more verdant — low forest with coconut palms jutting out, mango orchards and the occasional glimpse of a shimmering Pacific Ocean. We pull up to a nondescript gate with a wooden sign that reads Playa Viva Hotel; a blue arrow points the way. The driver hops out to slide the rusted gate open, and we rumble down a dirt road toward one of the wildest, most untouched beaches I’ve seen since dedicating my free time to chasing coasts after moving to a landlocked city for the first time in my life.

Upon check-in, I’m taken to my room — a luxury treehouse, really, with one wall missing so that the ocean remains in full view, and no doors or keys to speak of. If Guerrero is this dangerous on paper, how has Playa Viva flourished for nearly two decades with nary a lock in sight?

Guerrero’s Pacific Coast: What the travel advisory doesn’t tell you

Guerrero’s 500-kilometer Pacific shoreline breaks into three loose regions — the wilder Costa Grande in the north, Acapulco’s urban bay in the center, and the quieter Costa Chica heading south toward Oaxaca — and they are not equally dangerous.

While U.S. government employees are prohibited from traveling to any of these, the Secretaría de Seguridad Pública de Guerrero simultaneously insists safety is a priority — during the 2025–2026 winter season, the state government posted messaging insisting that “Guerrero is a destination ready to be enjoyed; here, safety is part of the experience.” In a classic example of two things being true at once, Guerrero can be a genuinely violent state, without that violence infiltrating the tourist experience. It simply depends on which parts you visit.

Costa Grande, where most of this story takes place, sits well below the state average in reported crime, with most incidents concentrated in urban Zihuatanejo rather than the small coastal villages. Hoteliers and tight-knit communities here are trying to build a different kind of Guerrero — one that trades on ecology, culture and a slower pace.

Three Guerrero beach towns worth knowing

Home to only about 500 residents, Barra de Potosí is a beautiful beach destination and safe to visit. (Ixtapa y Zihuatanejo)

Juluchuca

This is where Playa Viva has operated since 2008 — a village of roughly 700 residents with outsized ambitions for changing outsiders’ perceptions. The hotel has incubated ReSiMar (Regenerando Sierra y Mar — regenerating from the mountains to the sea), a nonprofit working across five interconnected areas: water, fisheries, permaculture, ecosystem restoration and education throughout the Juluchuca micro-watershed. It’s an attempt to restore what Playa Viva founder David Leventhal calls “the abundance that used to exist” — dense forest, lagoons full of fish and communities with real economic alternatives to resource extraction.

Barra de Potosí

South of Juluchuca, Barra de Potosí is a fishing village of around 500 residents at the mouth of a protected 800-hectare mangrove lagoon. The ecosystem hosts over 200 bird species, nesting sea turtles and, in winter, humpback whales. Local cooperatives run boat tours through the channels and operate a turtle camp on Playa Blanca — the long sweep of beach connecting Barra to Zihuatanejo — where visitors can join hatchling releases at dawn.

Troncones

Perhaps the most recognizable Costa Grande town outside Zihua and Ixtapa, Troncones is known for its long surf beach and low-rise casitas. It draws surfers, wellness travelers and anyone looking for a less-developed Pacific alternative — the kind of place often described as what Tulum was 20 years ago.

Regenerative tourism in Guerrero: Betting on abundance

Two forces may just save Guerrero’s coast from being swallowed by its own reputation: genuine community-rooted regeneration and state-run seasonal security operations. Together, they’re building something worth watching.

Playa Viva is the clearest local example of regeneration in practice, both environmental and reputational. The Juluchuca-based eco-resort is dedicated to restoring the local watershed, improving education and protecting wildlife — and it backs those commitments financially. A share of guest spending supports local jobs: turtle patrol wages, purchases of local produce and guides for lagoon tours and horseback rides. 

ReSiMar grew out of that same ethos — a nonprofit founded in 2021 to restore the Juluchuca watershed and keep locals from relocating for work through community-led work in farming, fisheries, education and conservation. The ambition is larger than one beach: a model proven here that could be replicated along other stretches of Mexico’s Pacific coast.

Guerrero’s tourist security operation: What it looks like on the ground

Governor Evelyn Salgado of Guerrero
Guerrero Governor Evelyn Salgado deployed more than 6,800 security personnel during the winter of 2025 to help enhance the state’s security.  (EneasMx/Wikimedia Commons)

In winter 2025, Governor Evelyn Salgado launched Operativo Temporada Vacacional Invierno 2025, deploying more than 6,800 security personnel and 727 patrol units — drawn from state police, the army, the navy and the National Guard — across Guerrero’s tourist corridors. Mobile surveillance towers and panic buttons were installed along beach zones and highways, backed by drones, helicopters, Black Mamba armored units, canines, ambulances and sea-rescue craft. Separately, COFEPRIS sampled water quality at nearly 300 Mexican beaches, declaring the vast majority of Guerrero’s tourist strands safe for swimming while flagging a handful of Acapulco beaches as temporarily unsuitable due to elevated bacteria levels.

On the ground, the operation is hard to miss.

Security was heavily armed — something I noticed and perhaps scoped out subconsciously, as the country was still processing a wave of violence following El Mencho’s death. The level of visible weaponry wasn’t out of the ordinary for Mexico, but I found myself wondering whether a tourist from Ottawa or the American Midwest would feel reassured or unsettled by it.

Leventhal, who has frequented Juluchuca for nearly two decades, offers a different frame of reference. “The media narrative around Mexico and security is very loud. The reality, especially in a small coastal community, can feel quite different.” Playa Viva’s remoteness — not on a border, not a transit corridor, but on a beach where boats can’t easily land — has been both its tourist draw and its quiet protective shield.

Should you visit Guerrero? 

There’s no simple yes or no. Guerrero is dangerous in parts, and largely between people with specific reasons to be in conflict. Follow the standard Mexico travel logic: Drive during daylight, stay in reputable lodging, book tours with local cooperatives and don’t buy anything illegal. Do that, and you may find the Guerrero coast more rewarding than the overcrowded beaches of Los Cabos or Cancún.

This is where you wake before sunrise to the sound of crashing waves, pull on a sweater, and walk to the local sanctuary to watch a daily release of baby turtles. Where beach walks take you past lush lagoons, home to roseate spoonbills and white herons. Where an afternoon on a regenerative farm connects your meal to the soil it came from and the people who tend it.

A practical guide for travelers

Then there’s the longer excursion: Slide onto an ATV and climb into the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the Gutiérrez family’s off-grid home for a home-cooked lunch and a tour of the cacao and coffee farm that’s been supplying Playa Viva’s kitchen since the hotel opened. Without a cruise terminal in sight, humpbacks come close to shore in winter — sightings on a morning beach walk are common between December and March.

Guerrero will not be for everyone — a grand part of its appeal. The travelers who come tend to be self-selecting: curious, flexible, unbothered by a dirt road or a lack of Michelin Guide-rated restaurants. Here, it seems the biggest threat is the occasional mosquito or one too many Guerrero mezcals. The wild coast makes the journey south more than vale la pena.  

For current travel safety information, consult the U.S. State Department at travel.state.gov and Mexico’s official tourism resource at visitmexico.com.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

Why it’s news that Sheinbaum flew coach class to Spain: A perspective from our CEO

By
Travis Bembenek
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On Friday, President Sheinbaum once again traveled internationally in an economy seat, this time to Barcelona, Spain.
On Friday, President Sheinbaum once again traveled internationally in an economy seat, this time to Barcelona, Spain. (Claudia Sheinbaum/Facebook)

I remember the first time that the newly elected President Sheinbaum had her first foreign trip.

It was late 2024, she had only been in office for a few weeks and accepted an invitation to attend the G20 Summit in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Most of Mexico was surprised that she accepted, given that her predecessor, AMLO, rarely left the country during his six years as president. His embrace of austerity and aversion to foreign trips was so infamous that AMLO actually sold off the Mexican presidential airplane to Tajikistan after an embarrassing attempt to sell raffle tickets to give it away.

President Sheinbaum greets fans in Barcelona, Spain.
President Sheinbaum greets fans in Barcelona, Spain. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

So how was Sheinbaum going to get from Mexico City to Rio on that 10-hour flight? Charter a private plane? Take a military plane? Nope, she actually flew commercial — in economy class!

The trip was well documented, with President Sheinbaum boarding at the airport along with everyone else, working on her laptop on the flight and chatting it up with flight attendants.  People couldn’t believe it. An observant and humorous MND reader noted that she was in an exit aisle, which had extra leg room, and asked aloud who paid for that upgrade!

Most people chalked it up as a publicity stunt: the perfect opportunity for her Morena political party to show the country that they truly were “the party of the people.” No one imagined that she would actually do it again. But she did.

After accepting an invitation from the newly elected Mark Carney, she took another flight to Canada to attend a G7 meeting last year. That once again was impressive, but as it was not that long of a flight, it didn’t really make news. But just this week she did it again, this time on a flight to Spain.

The trip made headlines for several reasons. Tensions between Mexico and Spain have been high in recent years as AMLO demanded (and never got) an apology from Spain for the conquest of Mexico. Sheinbaum instead has focused on normalizing relations and has been courting Spanish investment and tourism into the country.

The trip also highlighted yet another issue on which Sheinbaum was not following the lead of AMLO (despite unfounded fears from many that she would be his puppet) and that Mexico, in fact, was once again engaging with the foreign community. And finally, the trip made headlines due to Sheinbaum once again flying commercial, in economy class.

The video put out by the president’s team is worth watching. Once again, she boards with everyone else, chats it up with flight attendants and works on the flight.

Upon arrival, she is greeted by Mexicans who are in Spain. They wave Mexican flags, chant “Presidenta! Presidenta!” as well as “Viva Mexico,” and there is a group playing music.  Sheinbaum stops to hug the musicians and you can hear one of them telling her that she is from San Miguel de Allende. It was a pretty touching moment — even for the cynical.

And yet 30% of Mexicans still don’t approve of the job she is doing as president. I meet many of these people and try to understand what it is that she needs to do to win over their approval, and quite honestly, I don’t get very clear answers. It’s undeniable that she continues to make progress on poverty rates and the middle class, crime rates are declining by double digits and she has managed relations with President Trump incredibly skillfully.

She has made sound decisions regarding the cartels, cooperating with U.S. intelligence agencies and managing the U.S./China trade war. She has re-engaged the international community, launched Plan México in coordination with the business community and is attracting record amounts of Foreign Direct Investment. The peso has remained stable and strong, inflation is well under control and analysts have recently been making upward revisions on GDP growth rates.

Of course, her record is not perfect. Everyone would like to see the economy grow faster. Most would like to see significant and meaningful reform in the power and energy sectors. Both CFE and PEMEX are bloated, inefficient and act as a drag on economic growth. The judicial reform has not helped her case with the business community and she arguably has not cracked down on corruption quickly enough for many people.

But with all of that said, I ask those still not approving of the work President Sheinbaum is doing: What more do you expect?

For a country that has come to accept decades of corruption and nepotism, how can she not be seen as a breath of fresh air? How can we not be inspired by the fact that her children are not involved in politics (or real estate or construction) and instead quietly go about their own lives? For those who tell me that “corruption is worse than ever,” I offer two comments. First, as with any organization, change starts with the top; and second, she has only been in office for 19 months. It would be unreasonable to think that she could clean up systemic corruption, nationwide, in just a few months. It is difficult to deny that the tone she sets from the top is impressive.

Across the globe, we have become too accustomed to politicians whose actions do not align with their words. Politicians who say one thing and then, when it comes to themselves, do something completely different. That hypocrisy has made us all cynical about politics, politicians, and even the ability to bring about change. But I think President Sheinbaum continues to demonstrate, day in and day out, that her words and actions are aligned. In my opinion, she has earned the benefit of the doubt from anyone willing to honestly put themselves in her shoes.

To those of you still unconvinced by her leadership, I would ask you to think about what other world leader would you point to that is doing a better job leading their country? And for those of you who still don’t approve of her work, I challenge you to speak up, be clear and make heard what you think she needs to do better. If you keep an open mind, you never know, she might just surprise you!

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.

Mexico’s week in review: USMCA talks advance as Pemex admits to Gulf oil spill cover-up

By
MND Staff
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A large gas flare visible through trees at Olmeca Refinery in Dos Bocas, Tabasco.
Oil and gas production took center stage this week, as Pemex admitted responsibility for a oil spill it had previously denied and President Sheinbaum addressed concerns over Mexico's planned foray into fracking. Pictured: A gas flare at Olmeca Refinery, as seen from Abías Domínguez Primary School in Dos Bocas, Tabasco. (Isabel Mateos Hinojosa / Cuartoscuro.com)

This week in Mexico, bilateral trade talks with the United States continued to ramp up ahead of the formal review of the USMCA free trade pact. Mexico’s newly appointed Foreign Minister Juan Ramón de la Fuente sat down with U.S. Ambassador Ronald Johnson early in the week for their first formal meeting, signaling a reset in the bilateral relationship. De la Fuente and Johnson discussed migration, security cooperation, and trade, with the foreign minister making clear that Mexico would engage the United States as an equal partner on all fronts. That framing was quickly tested by developments on the border and in U.S. detention facilities.

On Tuesday, President Claudia Sheinbaum used her daily press conference to demand consular access to ICE detention centers after the 15th Mexican national died in U.S. immigration custody. Sheinbaum said Mexico has the right — and the obligation — to monitor the conditions in which its citizens are held, and that her government would pursue the matter through diplomatic channels. The same week, U.S. Customs and Border Protection construction on a border wall segment damaged Cuchumá Hill near Tecate, Baja California — a site considered sacred by the Kumeyaay people on both sides of the border. Indigenous leaders and Mexican officials protested the work, calling it a violation of Indigenous rights and binational cultural heritage.

Also on Tuesday, Mexico and the United States moved closer to a critical minerals agreement that both governments want folded into the USMCA framework, covering lithium, copper, and other resources central to the clean-energy supply chain. Shortly after, officials announced that U.S. Trade Representative would visit Mexico City early next week for a second round of talks ahead of the USMCA’s mandatory joint review, which officially launches July 1. Not all the trade news was forward-looking: A Canadian court reopened a US $270 million NAFTA-era arbitration case against Pemex, a legacy dispute that had appeared settled. Late in the week, more troubling news emerged for Pemex: A panel of government experts determined that the state-owned oil company was responsible for a February oil spill that affected 700 kilometers of Mexico’s Gulf Coast — and that groups within the company had deliberately covered it up. 

Didn’t have time to catch this week’s top stories? Here’s what you missed.

Sheinbaum on the world stage

Time magazine named President Sheinbaum to its list of the 100 most influential people in the world for the second consecutive year, placing her alongside a small group of sitting heads of state. The recognition came as Sheinbaum was fielding a broad range of international topics at her daily press conferences — from Donald Trump’s remarks about Pope Francis to the future of energy policy and the bilateral trade agenda. On Monday, she defended the late pope’s legacy and Christianity after Trump suggested the pontiff had been a communist, calling the characterization unfounded. She also addressed questions about the World Cup, which Mexico is co-hosting with the U.S. and Canada this year.

Taxco mayor, father freed in mass security operation

In one of the week’s most dramatic domestic stories, Guerrero state security forces and federal agents rescued the mayor of Taxco and his father from kidnappers in an operation involving more than 500 personnel. Mayor Eduardo Lino Carmona and his father had been abducted days earlier. Officials confirmed both were unharmed. The operation involved coordination between state police, the National Guard and federal prosecutors — a level of response that reflected both the profile of the victims and ongoing pressure on the government to demonstrate control in Guerrero, a state with persistent security challenges.

Taxco mayor and father rescued from kidnappers in 500-agent security operation

IMF raises Mexico’s growth forecast, but modestly

The International Monetary Fund revised Mexico’s 2026 GDP growth forecast upward to 1.6%, a slight improvement from its previous estimate, even as the IMF reduced its global outlook due to trade uncertainty. The adjustment reflects cautious optimism about nearshoring investment and domestic demand, though the IMF flagged U.S. tariff policy as the primary external risk to Mexican growth. The forecast puts Mexico below the Latin American regional average but ahead of several major economies facing steeper headwinds.

Pemex admits cover-up as two separate incidents draw scrutiny

Pemex this week admitted what environmental groups had been saying for months: that a leak in a pipeline near the Abkatún-Cantarell complex in Campeche Bay, first detected on February 6, was responsible for an oil spill that spread across 700 kilometers of Gulf coastline across Veracruz and Tabasco, affecting seven protected natural reserves. CEO Víctor Rodríguez said an internal review found the leak had gone unreported within the company; three high-ranking officials were fired and a criminal complaint was filed with the Attorney General’s Office. For weeks, senior officials — including Sheinbaum and Veracruz Governor Rocío Nahle — had publicly attributed the spill to passing tankers and dismissed NGO evidence of Pemex involvement; the admission reverses that position entirely.

In a separate incident, Pemex’s jointly operated Deer Park refinery in Texas activated emergency protocols after a diesel spill at the facility, with cleanup operations underway on the U.S. side of the border.

Fracking debate reaches the mañanera

Sheinbaum addressed questions Wednesday about whether the government is moving toward allowing hydraulic fracturing — fracking — in the Gulf of Mexico. She did not rule it out, saying studies are underway and that any decision would be based on technical and environmental assessments. The comments generated pushback from environmental groups, who noted that fracking was effectively prohibited under the previous administration. The issue is unresolved, and Sheinbaum did not provide a timeline for a final determination.

Mexico and Brazil build health partnership

Mexico's Health Minister David Kershenobich shakes hands with colleagues during a work trip to Brazil
Health Minister David Kershenobich signed the deal during a trip to Brazil this week, within the framework of a wider healthcare cooperation plan that the countries agreed at last year’s World Health Assembly. (Health Ministry)

Health ministers from Mexico and Brazil signed a bilateral cooperation agreement this week aimed at sharing expertise and resources as both countries advance toward universal healthcare systems. Mexico’s IMSS-Bienestar program, which is expanding access to public health services in underserved communities, will be one focus of the exchange. The alliance is framed as a model for South-South cooperation ahead of Mexico’s planned 2027 launch of a universal health service.

Looking ahead

The week’s final mañanera press conference on Friday carried two significant forward-looking signals. Interior Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez announced the inauguration of a passenger train service connecting Mexico City’s AIFA airport with the capital’s urban rail network, a project that aims to address one of the airport’s persistent weaknesses since its 2022 opening. She also confirmed that Mexico is in conversations about a possible visit by Pope Leo — suggesting the government is laying diplomatic groundwork for a pastoral visit should one be announced. On trade, the USMCA talks will continue in the coming weeks with critical minerals and rules of origin among the thorniest unresolved issues.

Also in the news this week

Mexico News Daily

This story contains summaries of original Mexico News Daily articles. The summaries were generated by Claude, then revised and fact-checked by a Mexico News Daily staff editor.

The MND News Quiz of the Week: April 18

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MND Plus
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News quiz
(Mexico News Daily)

What's been going on in the news this week? Our weekly quiz is here to keep you on top of what’s happening in Mexico.

Get informed, stay smart.

Are you ready?  Let’s see where you rank vs. our expert community!

A recent newspaper poll conducted for El Economista newspaper revealed Mexico's most popular governor leads which state?
Gov. David Monreal of Zacatecas at a military event

In its building of a section of its border wall with Mexico, the U.S. government recently angered Indigenous locals in Baja California. Why?
A previously built section of wall along the Mexico-U.S. border near Tecate, Baja California.

A Canadian court has reopened a NAFTA-era lawsuit case against which Mexican company?

What species is Juji, an abandoned baby animal currently stealing hearts at the Guadalajara Zoo?

Which Mexican airline has confirmed it'll be the first in Latin America to fly out of JFK's massive New Terminal One?
A rendering shows the planned New Terminal One at New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport.

What exciting natural discovery was recently made in the Mexican state of Coahuila?

Claudia Sheinbaum launched the first of 15 promised "economic well-being hubs" in which Mexican state on Sunday?
Ebrard en Huamantla

Who did President Sheinbaum praise at her daily press conference this week after he was maligned by US President Donald Trump?

After a 15th Mexican national died in ICE custody on April 11, which ISN'T a step Mexico's taking in response, according to President Sheinbaum?

What archeological find did INAH recently make in Hidalgo?

What can go wrong in a real estate transaction in Mexico (and how to avoid it)

By
Glenn Rotton
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Real estate property in Los Cabos
Beware some common mistakes when buying or selling property in Mexico. (Coldwell Banker Riveras)

Buying or selling property in Mexico can be described as straightforward. In many ways, it is. Transactions are typically cash, closings are handled by a notario, and foreigners can legally own property in most parts of the country. But anyone who has spent time in the market knows that straightforward does not mean foolproof.

Most transactions move from offer to closing without drama. Some do not. And when things go wrong, they can become expensive, stressful and, in rare cases, legally complicated. The good news is that most problems are avoidable with preparation, patience and the right professional guidance.

Notario in Mexico
The notario in Mexico plays a central role in real estate transactions. (Colegio de Notarios de la Ciudad de México)

Here are some of the most common issues — and how to steer clear of them.

Title problems that surface late

One of the biggest misconceptions foreign buyers have is that if a property is listed publicly, the title must be clean. In reality, title issues are not common, but they do happen. A property may have an old lien that was never properly canceled, an unresolved inheritance process, unpaid property taxes or discrepancies in square meter measurements between the deed and the physical structure.

In Mexico, the notario plays a central role in reviewing the title and confirming that taxes and utilities are current. However, that review typically takes place after a purchase agreement is signed. If problems are discovered at that stage, it can delay closing or, in some cases, derail the transaction entirely.

How to avoid it: Work with an agent who requests preliminary documentation before marketing or offering on a property. Sellers should have copies of their deed, predial (property tax) receipts and utility statements ready. Buyers should ensure their offer includes appropriate timelines and conditions that allow title review before funds are released to escrow.

Unrealistic pricing

It may sound simple, but price is still the most common reason a property lingers on the market or a deal falls apart. Sellers sometimes anchor to what they need or want from the sale rather than what the market will support. Buyers, especially in softer markets, may assume steep discounts are always available.

When expectations on either side are disconnected from current comparable sales, negotiations can stall. A property that sits for a year can eventually sell — but often at a lower price than if it had been positioned correctly from the beginning.

Property in Los Cabos
A property that sits for a year can still sell, but it’s important to have reasonable pricing based on data, not emotions. (Coldwell Banker Riveras)

How to avoid it: Base decisions on data, not emotion. A thoughtful market analysis that looks at recent sales — not just active listings — helps set realistic expectations. Pricing correctly from the start often leads to stronger offers and smoother negotiations.

Inspection surprises

In Mexico, home inspections are not mandatory, but they are increasingly common, especially among foreign buyers. Even newer homes can reveal issues: roof waterproofing near the end of its lifespan, electrical systems that need updating, or structural cracks that require evaluation.

Sometimes buyers wait too long to schedule an inspection, conducting it only after funds have been deposited into escrow without clear contingency language. That can limit their leverage if significant issues are found.

How to avoid it: Schedule inspections either before making an offer or immediately after acceptance, and ensure the purchase agreement clearly outlines how inspection findings will be handled. A professional inspection does not mean a transaction will collapse; more often, it provides clarity and a basis for reasonable adjustments.

Residency and tax misunderstandings

Residency status can affect capital gains tax calculations at the time of sale. Sellers who assume they qualify for certain exemptions without proper documentation may be surprised at closing. On the buyer side, confusion sometimes arises around the process of obtaining the required permit from the Mexican government (SRE) or registering with the tax authority if rental income is anticipated.

How to avoid it: Discuss tax implications early. A knowledgeable real estate professional, working alongside a qualified attorney, can help sellers prepare documentation well before listing. Buyers planning to generate income should understand their obligations before closing.

Financing assumptions

MOXI global mortgage company workers
U.S.-style financing to foreign real estate buyers in Mexico is available through companies like MOXI. (MOXI)

While most transactions in markets like San Miguel de Allende or Cabo are cash, financing does exist through Mexican banks and some cross-border lenders. Problems arise when buyers assume financing will be quick or guaranteed. Loan approvals can take longer than expected, and appraisal requirements may differ from U.S. norms.

If a purchase contract does not include a financing contingency, delays can create tension or even jeopardize earnest money deposits.

How to avoid it: If financing is involved, secure pre-approval before making an offer and structure the contract accordingly. Clear communication about timelines protects both parties.

Delays in documentation

Sellers sometimes underestimate the time required to gather necessary documents, particularly if the property was inherited or remodeled without updating the deed. Missing building permits or unregistered additions can slow the notario’s review.

How to avoid it: Sellers should begin preparing documentation before the property goes to market. Verifying that construction matches the deed and that permits are in order can prevent last-minute scrambling.

Emotional decision-making

Real estate transactions are financial decisions wrapped in personal history. Sellers may feel attached to a home they have owned for years. Buyers may fall in love with a view and overlook practical considerations. Emotions can complicate negotiations, especially when counteroffers are involved.

Emotions wrapped up in properties can affect real estate deals. Keep the focus on outcomes. (www.susimacdonald.com)

How to avoid it: Keep communication professional and grounded in facts. Experienced agents act as buffers, helping clients focus on outcomes rather than momentary frustrations.

The role of escrow and professional oversight

In many Mexican transactions, independent escrow services are used to hold funds during the process. Escrow provides security, but it does not replace due diligence. Funds should not be released until contractual conditions are satisfied and the notario confirms readiness to close.

Likewise, while the notario ensures legality, the notario does not negotiate on behalf of either party. Buyers and sellers benefit from having their own representation guiding them through each stage.

The bottom line

Most real estate transactions in Mexico close successfully. The system, though different from that of the United States or Canada, is well established. Problems tend to arise not from the structure of the process itself but from assumptions, incomplete preparation or unclear communication.

What can go wrong? Quite a bit — if corners are cut. Title discrepancies, tax misunderstandings, inspection surprises and unrealistic pricing can all complicate a deal. But none of these are mysterious hazards. They are manageable risks.

The key is preparation. Sellers who price correctly and organize documentation early position themselves for smoother closings. Buyers who conduct inspections, understand tax implications and structure contracts carefully protect their investment. And both sides benefit from working with professionals who anticipate issues before they become problems.

In real estate, surprises are rarely welcome. With planning and experienced guidance, most of them can be avoided.

Glenn Rotton is a real estate agent with eight years of experience in San Miguel de Allende. Originally from Seattle, he has lived in Mexico for twelve years with his husband, Kiang Chong Ovalle, and their dog, Angus. Read more about Glenn here.

Introducing MND’s most ambitious initiative yet, MND Insights: A message from our CEO

By
Travis Bembenek
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22
A view over the shoulder of the golden Angel of Independence statue in Mexico City, looking down Paseo de la Reforma
With MND Insights, Mexico News Daily debuts a new set of indexes to help readers understand safety in Mexico, the Mexican peso and much more. (Shutterstock)

Being in the news business, our team is constantly asked questions by readers about current events in the country. On a personal level, I am increasingly stopped on the street and asked questions by people. There is no such thing as a dinner party where I can just enjoy the meal anymore — it now always ends up with me being peppered with questions. No matter who is doing the asking, they almost always fall into one of 5 categories:

  1. Is Mexico safe?
  2. How is the cost and quality of healthcare in Mexico?
  3. How is Claudia Sheinbaum doing?
  4. How is the Mexican economy doing?
  5. Is the Mexican peso overvalued and will it devalue anytime soon?

Given the frequency with which we hear these questions, we naturally prioritize content in these areas. To help further enable understanding, debate and discussion, the MND team is excited to announce that we are launching MND Insights, which consists of three new exclusive MND indexes and two unique MND Expat surveys. We have been working on creating these new types of content for several months and are excited to finally begin publishing them, starting next week. Allow me briefly introduce each one:

1. The MND Mexico Expat Safety Perceptions Survey

The number one question everyone living, working, or vacationing in Mexico hears from family and friends is “Is it safe there?” As many of us living here know, the international media narrative about Mexico tends to present a very different perspective on the country than what those of us who live here experience.

Our team in no way seeks to minimize the fact that parts of the country have real crime and safety issues, but we believe that it is important to more accurately cover what actual expats living here feel in terms of crime and safety risks. As a result, we have created the MND Mexico Expat Safety Perceptions Survey, where on a quarterly basis we will directly survey over 2,000 Expats living throughout the country to gain their perceptions about safety. The data will be collected, compiled, organized and shared once per quarter, starting with next week.

2. The MND Mexico Healthcare Cost and Quality Survey

After safety, healthcare concerns around cost, availability, and quality are the biggest issue that people have when it comes to spending more time in Mexico. Cost and complexity are increasing concerns in the U.S., and availability and accessibility are often concerns in Canada and elsewhere. Mexico is increasingly becoming a destination for healthcare and the country has recently announced that it will be launching a universal health service. This biannual survey will bring MND readers real data and insights from foreigners actually receiving healthcare in Mexico today. The survey will give you perspectives on the quality, availability and cost of care — as well as how it compares to the care people received in their home country. The goal of this survey is to demystify healthcare in the country and better educate and inform those who are wanting to learn more. The first survey will go out soon, with the results published in late May.

Mexico launches Universal Health Service registration, starting with elderly

The Mexican peso exchange rate with the USD and CAD is another frequent topic of discussion. I can’t tell you how many times people have asked me for my opinion on the exchange rate. Countless people have tried to convince me that the current peso value makes no sense and is “due for a significant devaluation any day” (I have been hearing that for several years now).

For decades, the peso to US dollar exchange rate was a pretty boring topic. Since the big devaluation of 1995 until the 2020 COVID pandemic, the peso on average devalued about 10% versus the USD each year.  Sometimes more, other times less, but depreciation against the USD was a reliable bet. That predictability is long gone, and since the initial spike at the start of the pandemic, the peso has appreciated significantly and, for the most part, held the gains.

As a result, the big question nearly everyone has is: Where does it go from here? Although no one can claim to predict exchange rates with certainty, we can look at the trends of the underlying indicators that serve as logical, rational predictors. Mexico News Daily will begin to provide deeper insight into the peso and the Mexican economy at large with two new comprehensive monthly indexes:

3. The MND Peso Index

The MND Peso Index will directly help answer the question: Is the peso overvalued? It will do this by comparing a consistent basket of 20 goods and services in both the United States and Mexico, and on a monthly basis look at the costs of these 20 items in both countries, track changes, and compare them to the actual exchange rate. This will provide our readers with a real time sense of how overvalued or undervalued the peso is based on actual goods and services. It is not looking at economic indicators or reported government statistics but rather the real prices of real items in both countries and using that data to help us better understand current exchange rates. This index will work in a similar fashion as The Economist Magazine’s “Big Mac Index” which provides insight into exchange rates globally.

4. The MND Mexico Economy Index

This index will help you better understand the underlying forces and trends behind the peso’s current rate. Each month, our team will review economic data across 17 indicators and create a simple index based on the data. We all know that it’s not easy to make predictions about the peso or draw conclusions about the economy, especially given the current amount of uncertainty in the world. That being said, this index will provide you with a simple way of better understanding the economy far beyond GDP growth.

5. The MND Sheinbaum Index

Claudia Sheinbaum has caught the attention of the world. Her popularity remains high in Mexico, but many expats struggle to answer the basic question: How is President Sheinbaum doing? Their confusion is often exacerbated by conversations with wealthier Mexicans, many who are convinced that she is “ruining the country.”

Of course, as is the case with any political leader, the opinions are often based on past experiences and decisions that have had a personal impact on family, business or community. Most of us who are immigrants to Mexico don’t have as many personal experiences to draw on to form an opinion. As a result, many of us end up having a very superficial (at best) understanding of how the president of the country is actually doing.

President Sheinbaum in focus, talking to a couple of men in business suits
Mexico News Daily’s Sheinbaum Index seeks to answer the question: How effectively is Claudia Sheinbaum carrying out her duties as president? (Presidencia via Cuartoscuro)

To help our readers better assess President Sheinbaum’s performance, our team will be compiling data from 11 different indicators on a monthly basis. We will gather data from across the economic and social spectrum to help you form a more informed opinion about how the president is leading the country.

Creating these indexes and surveys has been hard work. We don’t expect them to be perfect from day 1, and we don’t expect everyone to agree with our methodology or with our results. But we are confident that we have come up with useful tools that are rational, logical, unemotional, unbiased, apolitical and thought-provoking.

The mark of our success in this new initiative will be if (when!) our readers are able to better understand Mexico thanks to an easy-to-read, accessible index. Our goal is for people to feel more informed and confident discussing, debating and sharing opinions on these important topics.

Over the next 5 weeks, we will be publishing one of these new initiatives each week. Please read them carefully, and share your thoughts and comments with us. We want to learn from your experience and your feedback to improve where necessary.

Together, we will elevate our understanding of Mexico, and most certainly have some good informed debate in the process!

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.

MND Tutor | Charreria

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MND Plus
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Welcome to MND Tutor! This interactive learning tool is designed to help you improve your Spanish by exploring real news articles from Mexico News Daily. Instead of just memorizing vocabulary lists or grammar rules, you’ll dive into authentic stories about Mexican culture, current events, and daily news.

Mexico’s cowboy traditions may not quite be like those of their northern neighbours, but they’re still a huge part of Mexican culture.

Charrería — Mexico’s national sport — traces its roots to the colonial-era hacienda workers who managed cattle across vast landscapes, blending Spanish, Moorish and Indigenous influences into a distinct equestrian tradition that eventually became a powerful symbol of Mexican national identity. From working horsemen to revolutionary generals to UNESCO-recognized cultural heritage, the charro figure has endured for centuries, kept alive through competitions called charreadas and the intergenerational bonds of families who continue to pass the tradition down to young riders today.

Read the full article here.



Let us know how you did!

Check out our complete MND Tutor archive here!

Val’Quirico, Mexico’s Italian-inspired getaway

By
Alan Chazaro
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4
Val'Quirico
The flagship of the "Kingdoms of Mexico," tourism concept, Val'Quirico has drawn plenty of tourists of all nationalities to Tlaxcala. (Visit Mexico)

The quaint feel of a faraway Italian village isn’t something most people would visit Mexico for. But in recent years, Tlaxcala’s Val’Quirico — a small, European-style community that began construction in 2014 and opened to the public in 2015 — has become exactly what it set out to be: a magical Tuscan getaway, right in the middle of Mexico’s relatively sleepy countryside.

Over a decade into its existence, Val’Quirico — which became the first designated locale in Mexico’s “Kingdoms of Mexico” program in 2023, awarded to towns that represent an international fusion of architecture, cuisine and culture, while generating an economic boost in their region — is certainly thriving.

When it was announced as part of the “Kingdoms of Mexico” program three years ago, Tourism Minister Miguel Torruco Marqués predicted that the town would “generate revenue of more than 80 million pesos per month (US $4.52 million) … (and) 11,400 jobs — 3,500 direct and 7,990 indirect.” He was right.

In 2026, the charming pueblo — replete with pedestrian-only cobblestoned roads, Spanish wine and tapas bars, Italian pizzerias and much more — is booming. Though relatively expensive to visit in comparison to a typical Mexican pueblo, a weekend stay will quickly win over any guests who are looking to escape Mexico’s often chaotic energy for a tranquil, anachronistic experience in the middle of the country.

Getting to Val’Quirico

Val’Quirico is located under 20 minutes driving from the Puebla International Airport, and approximately two hours away from the center of Mexico City. As such, the destination-worthy town receives a high volume of visitors from outside states and foreign countries. 

When arriving, the region’s landscape quickly transforms from a regular Mexican countryside — pueblos, torta stands, stacks of tires and corn fields — into a quirky, if not slightly cheesy medieval town. If you’re on the road from the city of Puebla, your first indication that you’ve time-traveled your way to the right place is when you pass the Gasolinera Valquirico gas station, which has an architectural facade reminiscent of an aged, European chateau. The roads are suddenly paved, and buildings turn into rustic stone. 

Val’Quirico itself is, as of this writing, divided into four separate neighborhoods — the central square (where mixed-use commercial spaces and restaurants double as apartment buildings for tourists and full-time residents alike), Barrios Bosques, Laurel and Fresno. The latter three are private, gated areas that are strictly used for residential purposes, but still maintain the feel of a high-end country club in a rustic Italian setting.

How to get around

Since cars are not allowed into the main square — which is sizable, and includes no less than a combined 200 small businesses and eateries, plus ample lodging options — you’ll have to park in a giant lot that is located on the opposite side of the rural highway (50 pesos a night on weekdays; 200 pesos on weekends, holidays and festivals). The lot is attended 24/7 by security, and you can even get your car washed by locals who set up their equipment daily and look after your vehicle (though it is optional of course, and is safe to leave overnight regardless).

Val'Quirico
Only about two hours by car from Mexico City, Val’Quirico is a good weekend getaway option for capitalinos. (Visit Mexico)

The brief walk from the lot into the heart of town will highlight Val’Quirico’s magic touches: suddenly, you’ll feel like you’ve left Mexico behind. As live music floats through the town, nicely dressed peddle bikers cluster at the entrance and will offer to give you a welcome tour of the zone; they will end by dropping you and your luggage off at the door of your residence (some locations on the other side of the pueblo are more likely to require a lift than others, but everything is within a 10 minute walking distance).

Over 1 million visitors per year — and counting

Once you’ve crossed into the threshold of Val’Quirico, there is only one way in, through a security checkpoint. The entire town is bordered by high stone walls, and in some parts, barbed wire fences, and the perimeter is patrolled around the clock by private security guards. You’ll feel as if you’ve entered a Mexican Disneyland for adults. There is no shortage of international culinary options, bars, dessert shops, coffee stations, souvenir outlets, fashion boutiques — the whole nine. You can snag artisanal chocolates from Yucateco chocolatiers at Ki’Xocolátl, then fill up with a generously-sized bowl of birriaramen at HOFU, all within an alley’s worth of exploration. (Beware of the endless streams of Instagram influencers who seem to wander the town at all hours, stopping at every floral decoration and ornate fountain to pose without much regard for anyone around them.)

According to Lourdes Caciano, the brand director for Kingdoms of Mexico, who spoke exclusively with Mexico News Daily, the town sees upwards of one million annual visitors. Val’Quirico’s influence will likely only continue to grow.

An exponential growth in visitors and development

“The exponential growth in visitors since its founding proves the development’s success, with over 90% of developed properties sold and more than 200 businesses open,” Caciano says. “It received endorsement from the Mexican Ministry of Tourism to expand its development model nationwide, leading to the creation of the Reinos de México (Kingdoms of Mexico) designation. Today, it already has a developing community, Sassi del Valle, in the Valle de Guadalupe, and soon a third community in Coahuila called Vindobona.”

In March, construction to expand both the center of the town and its peripheral communities was visible, though it didn’t disrupt any of the town’s peaceful charm. Soon, a section known as the “Vaults of Raziel” will open, and will add a significantly large commercial area for visitors and residents to explore. Despite the diminutive size of its proverbial kingdom — which physically only takes up a total of 8 hectares, or less than a square mile — it poses a large, otherworldly presence. 

The origin of Mexico’s first ‘Kingdoms of Mexico’ destination

Since its founding, the Kingdoms of Mexico program has developed a sister city partnership with other global regions to enhance the authenticity of exchanges between cultures, adding a completely fresh dimension to Mexico’s touristic offerings — particularly for its nationally-bound explorers. So far, everything has paid off for Val’Quirico as Mexico’s flagship Kingdoms of Mexico project, which bodes well for future sites.

Merry-go-round in Val'Quirico
From Ferris wheels and merry-go-rounds to other magical touches, Val’quirico sometimes feels like a “Mexican Disneyland.” (Alejandro Camero/UnSplash)

“This distinction has helped us open doors to cultural exchange with Europe, allowing us to build developments that promote pride in Hispanic heritage and the fusion of cultures,” Caciano says. “It has also enabled us to be ambassadors for Mexico, showcasing it as a driver of mutually beneficial development destinations.”

Right now, the town has a formal cultural alliance with Tuscany in the central region of Italy. And though there are clearly efforts to provide some semblance of an Italian village, there’s still an array of Mexican experiences to be had: a taqueria, traditional Mexican desayunos al fresco and cervezas on a patio or balcony. Imagine the warm quirks and hospitality of a robust Mexican tourist ecosystem permeating an old-world European alleyway. That’s Val’Quirico, at its best. It’s full of nooks and surprises (on your third day, for instance, you might unexpectedly stumble upon an impressively sized gnome garden that, until then, you hadn’t discovered through a series of alleyways).

The history and evolution of the town

It’s mostly imaginative and fabricated, of course. But there’s also some actual history behind the town. In fact, the area once held a prominent role in Mexico’s industrial production.

“During the Porfiriato era, the former Chautla Hacienda was the most important pasteurization plant in Latin America,” says Caciano. “Today, Val’Quirico is located on part of it.”

Val’Quirico was founded by a group of entrepreneurs representing Universo aBanza, a construction business that specializes in envisioning, and then building, entire communities from the ground up. You’ll occasionally see a sign advertising how to purchase property, or an official visitor’s office, but otherwise, the entrepreneurial capitalism behind Val’Quirico remains in the background as you roam the uneven paths while descending staircases in the labyrinth-like town. 

For parents, there are two playgrounds located within the town’s center (though they are apparently open from Friday to Sunday); there’s also a large, rideable carousel, a carnival row of games, a Ferris wheel, and — most enjoyably — the safety and comfort of letting your little ones run freely throughout the whimsical, car-free zone.

What to budget and when to visit

Val'Quirico, Tlaxcala
Val’Quirico features a fusion of cultural influences, which is one of the reasons it has proven to be such a popular destination. (Alejandro Camero/Unsplash)

Perhaps the downside of Val’Quirico is that it’s notably pricey, and once you’re there, you’re at the mercy of what’s available — it’s a bit of a mission to lug yourself back to the main lot and leave; there isn’t much to do on the nearby outskirts, anyway. Instead, it’s essentially a European-aspiring staycation. To get the full experience, it’s best to stay put and wander afoot (you’ll find anything from exotic flamingo meat at an African-inspired eatery to Korean corn dogs at a hip Asian market). If you’re looking for a twist on Italian dining, you’ll get that, too: pizza at Arte Sano combines a sourdough base with non-traditional toppings like cochinita pibil, carne al pastor, chilaquiles, carne arabe and fresh strawberries.

Major festivals and celebrations are held a few times a year — the Iberico Festival, Mexican Independence Day, Dia de Muertos and Christmas, to name a few — so expect larger groups, higher prices and congestion during those seasons. 

Drop in for a little taste of Europe

Otherwise, drop by whenever you feel like you want to get a partial taste of Europe in an otherwise overlooked fly-over section of Mexico, and relish in Val’Quirico’s pastoral, well-curated environment.

“Val’Quirico works every day in harmony with its community. It is a safe space for residents and visitors, and our goal is to be generators of development opportunities, epicenters of entrepreneurship, and creators of unique experiences,” Caciano says. “We are proud to be the inheritors of two great nations, and that drives us to strive for excellence in this and future Kingdoms of Mexico.”

Alan Chazaro is the author of “These Spaceships Weren’t Built For Us” (Tia Chucha Press, 2026), “Notes from the Eastern Span of the Bay Bridge” (Ghost City Press, 2021), “Piñata Theory” (Black Lawrence Press, 2020), and “This Is Not a Frank Ocean Cover Album” (Black Lawrence Press, 2019). He is a graduate of June Jordan’s Poetry for the People program at UC Berkeley and was selected as a Lawrence Ferlinghetti Poetry Fellow at the University of San Francisco. His work can be found in NPR, The Guardian, SLAM, GQ, L.A. Times, and more. He is currently based in Veracruz.

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