Saturday, October 4, 2025

Don Ramón Hernández: the throne maker of Zacoalco

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Don Ramon Hernandez with one of his equipal chairs
Don Ramón with an example of a finely-painted leather-back equipal chair at the family's showroom in Zacoalcos, Jalisco. (All photos by Leigh Thelmadatter)

If you have been to Mexican restaurants in the U.S. (and perhaps elsewhere), there is a very good chance you have seen this unusual furniture style that dates back centuries.

Equipales are distinguished with the use of criss-cross slats and padded leather. The most representative piece of the style is a chair with a curved back.

(Leigh Thelmadatter)
Don Ramón (far right) with several members of the cooperative at the showroom in Zacoalcos, Jalisco.

This chair harkens back to the style’s origins: a low stool reserved only for rulers in Mesoamerica. Its symbolism was so important that the Spanish used them in the early colonial period, though not without some modification; they added cushioned leather and a back. 

The basic techniques remained the same however, and over the centuries have been applied to the making of various kinds of furniture. 

Use of the equipal died out over most of Mexico, but one area that preserved it is the town of Zacoalco, just south of Guadalajara. Today, its craftsmen are the most important producers of the handcrafted furniture, mostly by luck: a rail line was built through the town that connects it south to Colima and north to the U.S. border. 

This rail line not only allowed the isolated community to ship furniture to Guadalajara but to introduce it beyond the state of Jalisco and into the southwestern U.S. Today, trucks and highways have taken over much of the logistics, but the rail line still defines where the furniture remains the most popular in both countries.

A traditional equipal chair. The design dates back to the rulers of pre-Hispanic Mexico. (marisolrosarioz/Wikimedia)

There are a myriad of equipal craftsmen here, and their production varies in quality, quantity and styles. But few have made equipal a status symbol like the family of Don Ramón Hernández.

The family’s showroom is in a prime location, just inside the arches entering Zacoalco from the highway, but the sign in front simply says “Galería de Equipales” with little to hint at the treasures inside. That is seemingly on purpose, as the Galería’s products and clientele are exclusive. 

The family has generations of experience making the furniture. Don Ramón himself learned the basics from his uncle Andrés Cantor and cousin Bascilo, who learned from the generations before them. But that is not what sets the family cooperative apart. 

Don Ramón decided to leave Zacoalco for the United States, where he worked in hotels and restaurants, learning a fair amount of English and even some French. Most importantly, he learned that there was a wealthy market that could be developed for equipales

Returning home, Hernández partnered with his cousins in 2005, who had started the cooperative some years earlier. He convinced the family that they did not have to sell to middlemen, who paid poorly, but rather directly to upscale buyers, if they could establish a reputation for quality merchandise. 

“What we sell is very, very, very exclusive, as many of our customers are looking for something different and better than what they can find [elsewhere],” says Hernández.

(Leigh Thelmadatter)
Pairing of more traditional furniture with quilt-like wall hangings, which are unique to Hernández’s family cooperative.

From the start, he used his contacts in the hospitality industry. From there, he reached other businesses, architects and interior designers. The direct sales allow the family to tailor furniture to customers’ tastes and even get inventive — designing sofas, vestibules, dining sets and wall hangings made from leather scraps. 

All derive their inspiration from tradition, although they have worked to make the chairs and sofas more comfortable, integrating ergonomic design and experimenting with different leathers, padding and support elements.

His other advantage is quality — in both craftsmanship and materials — although this is not easy. Getting suitable leather and wood takes time.  Traditional woods, such as rojo paduzco — used primarily for the slats — can be harvested only at certain times of the year, and overexploitation is forcing their suppliers to travel hours away to find suitable trees. They buy most of their leather as rawhide but process the skins themselves to ensure quality. 

Over the past 20 years, the cooperative has evolved, but it is still a family affair with over 14 craftsmen and others in administrative roles. Those few who are not family were admitted only after strict vetting.

It should be stated that Galería de Equipales is not a factory. All members have their own workshops but coordinate the construction, promotion and sale of the furniture collaboratively. This allows finished works to have a uniformity, but perhaps more importantly, says Hernández, the cooperative can respect individual and traditional working styles. 

“I have to adapt myself to them, not them to me,” says Don Ramón, noting that it is important to take days off for local festivals and respect that most of the family is still involved in agriculture, leaving less time for furniture-making during the rainy season.

The quality of Don Ramón’s work sets the products apart from the competition, and has made the cooperative a roaring success with high-end clients in the United States and Mexico.

Although he does do tasks like painting and other finishing touches, Hernández’s main role in the cooperative is to be its “face” — so much so that the organization is colloquially referred to as his. He has traveled in much of Mexico and the U.S., meaning the cooperative’s furniture can be found all over both countries in upscale businesses and luxury homes. 

U.S. restaurants remain an important part of his clientele, but recent restrictions on the importation of leather and wood products have made this business more difficult.

Word of mouth remains the family’s most important advertising, and they eschew an online presence, which would require an inventory of repeatable pieces, something he finds difficult and antithetical to how the cooperative works. 

Instead, many customers are willing to come to the showroom to choose from the wide variety of already-made furniture — which ranges from the absolute traditional to the innovative.

In a way, you could say that Hernández’s family has returned the equipal to its former high social status, once again creating a kind of “throne” for those who demand only the finest quality.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Is AMLO that bad? Or that good? A perspective from our CEO

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President López Obrador
President Andrés Manuel López Obrador tends to inspire a passionate response, from opponents or supporters. What is the best way to measure his impact on Mexico? (Gob MX)

I’ll start with two disclaimers.

First, I am not firmly for or against Mexico’s president, Andrés Manuel López Obrador (AMLO).

Second, I understand that one could argue that the current president of any country is not fully responsible for what happens during his or her tenure, and instead credit (or blame) external factors and previous administrations. While there is some truth to this, it makes it difficult to do any meaningful analysis of a leader.

For the purposes of this article, I am working on the assumption that most of what has happened during President López Obador’s nearly five years in office – the good and the bad – can be credited to his policies.

The goal of this article is to provide a basic framework for evaluating AMLO’s presidency. Nearly everyone I talk to has a very strong opinion about him. In the conversations that I have had with Mexicans of all socioeconomic levels, I have found he is either strongly liked or strongly loathed. Those who like him generally believe him to be less corrupt, and focused on the needs of the lower classes. Those who loathe him point to his anti-business, socialist policies, and attacks against the Supreme Court, fearing he is putting Mexico on the economic path of Argentina, or even worse, Venezuela. But what is the reality?

I remember vividly when AMLO took office and one of his very first actions was shutting down the construction of his predecessor’s Mexico City airport project. It was a very public statement, and a fulfillment of a campaign promise. As a very frequent flyer into Mexico City, I was appalled that he would do something so brazen as halting construction on a project that already had many billions of dollars invested, and was designed to give a modern first impression of Mexico to millions of foreign visitors to the country. I remember thinking, “Wow, this guy is going to be very, very bad for business….and likely for the country as a whole.”

Despite that alarming start to his administration, in my opinion, he has done some good work. He has significantly raised Mexico’s far too low minimum wage and is on track to have it doubled during his administration. He has significantly raised Mexico’s pensions, which also were low by most international standards. He has put in worker-friendly legislation on overtime pay and vacation time, which seems reasonable given where Mexico was compared to international standards. He has redirected resources to parts of the country that historically have not received significant investment.

He has also launched some very bold initiatives. To name a few:

  • He has built Mexico’s largest refinery to try to capture more economic value from Mexico’s oil output.
  • He has built a new lower-cost Mexico City airport (Felipe Ángeles International Airport).
  • He has prioritized the Isthmus of Tehuantepec trade corridor project as an alternative route to the Panama canal.
  • He has willed the Maya Train project forward.
  • He is building a new airport in Tulum.
  • He is building a new natural reserve (Jaguar Park) in Tulum.
  • He has prioritized the completion of the very long-overdue Oaxaca City to Oaxaca Coast highway project.

Each of these projects is big, each is controversial, each is hard, and yet each one has progressed surprisingly quickly.

There is no shortage of criticism of his actions. Many critics have concerns regarding the military’s involvement in many infrastructure projects (and how that has allowed AMLO to bypass normal procedures and approvals for getting things done). Others point to environmental damage from the Maya Train and Tulum airport projects. Many insist that he is “bending the rules” to get these projects completed quickly. Other criticisms focus on his support of the national energy companies, CFE and Pemex, to the detriment of renewable energy investment by the private sector. Still others point to Mexico’s continued abysmal murder rate and AMLO’s security policy of “hugs, not bullets”, which appears to have failed. And others think he has created a general anti-business climate that has many concerned about future investments in the country.

I think that a heated debate is best cooled by looking at some important indicators. Of course, those who are pro-AMLO would say that all good things are due to his policies and those who loathe him would say he has nothing to do with them (and vice versa).

But let’s start by looking at some financial indicators. Foreign direct investment (FDI) is at record highs, Mexico’s debt ratios are very good, resulting in solid credit ratings, the Mexican peso is the strongest it has been in eight years, inflation is coming back down, GDP growth is solid (not great), remittances from abroad are at record highs, and tourism levels and spending are growing fast. I would argue that if AMLO were really that bad for business, we would be seeing worse financial indicators. Businesses would be withholding or delaying investment (which is not happening).

What about other indicators? Violence levels have had minimal improvement during his administration, though homicide rates have seen declines in some parts of the country. Environmental indicators would also point to no real improvement during his administration. There are other indicators that point to a deterioration in some government health services.

It’s too soon to gauge the success of the bold initiatives of the Maya Train, the Tulum airport, the new Mexico City airport, the Oaxaca highway, and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec projects. Each has their proponents, and each has significant opposition – as to be expected of such massive projects. I understand and share many of the environmental concerns about the projects, but at the same time recognize that too many people in these parts of Mexico have been left behind economically. The reality is, without these kinds of investments, sooner or later many of the residents of these communities would continue to leave in search of a better life for their families elsewhere. Is the answer to not invest in an area and have its residents flee to look for opportunities elsewhere?  I don’t think that makes sense, for many reasons.

A developing country like Mexico that is rapidly industrializing is obviously going to bring about significant changes that are disruptive and discomforting to many. Although the “business” side of me is put off by the socialist rhetoric of AMLO, I have to acknowledge that he has made some bold investments in areas long neglected, that have the potential for significant positive economic impact on the country.

I also have to recognize that he has not scared off investors, and has been capable of maintaining solid relationships with both the Trump and Biden administrations – not an easy task to say the least. It’s been an unpredictable ride during this administration, but the solid economic indicators and AMLO’s consistently high approval ratings point to him doing more than a few things right. Only time will tell if his unorthodox approach and bold initiatives result in a better Mexico for all.

León, Guanajuato airport (BJX) to launch 12 new domestic routes

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The new routes will be serviced by the Mexican airline Volaris, and will increase connectivity between the Bajío region and the rest of Mexico. (Wikimedia Commons)

Guanajuato International Airport (BJX) has announced 12 new domestic flights across Mexico, further connecting the Bajío region with the rest of Mexico. 

Volaris airlines, Mexico’s biggest domestic air carrier, will now operate routes between Guanajuato and the following destinations: 

  • Ciudad Obregón and Hermosillo in the state of Sonora
  • Oaxaca city 
  • La Paz in Baja California Sur
  • Veracruz city
  • Mazatlán, Los Mochis and Culiacán, all in Sinaloa
  • Acapulco and Zihuatanejo, in Guerrero
  • Torreón in Coahuila
  • Tuxtla Gutiérrez in Chiapas 

The airline already offers nine other destinations from the airport, and is now the airline with the most routes to the Bajío region, which spreads over the states of Guanajuato and Querétaro.

A volaris aircraft
The Bajío region is undergoing a significant boom, which has increased demand for travel to the states of Guanajuato and Querétaro. (Volaris/Instagram)

The new destinations are part of a significant increase in domestic routes from Volaris, which has added some 90 new flights in 2023.

León’s Director of Tourism and Hospitality Yazmín Quiroz said that she believed the new flights would not only benefit tourists and business travelers but also local residents, who would be able to “visit loved ones and explore new destinations.”

State Tourism Minister Juan José Álvarez noted that “the new routes, alongside the existing ones, now connect us in an important way with the rest of the country.”

His state had gone from having nine connections to Mexican cities to 21, he said, and for good reason.

“These 12 new routes have been added because Guanajuato is the center of the country, and because the international airport is the most important in the region,” Álvarez said.

Local authorities and Volaris closely collaborated on the new flights, according to government officials, who stressed that the routes will help ensure Guanajuato’s continued growth and ensure that the state remains one of Mexico’s most popular tourist destinations.

The new flights will take Guanajuato International Airport to a total of 237 flights per week. 

With reports from El Sol de Leon, A21 and Debate

USMCA talks in Cancún press Mexico on GM corn, mining, vaquita

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On July 6, Mexico's Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro met with trade representives Katherine Tai (U.S.) and Mary Ng (Canada) for the third meeting of the USMCA trade commission. (Twitter)

Energy, genetically modified (GM) corn, the protection of the vaquita marina porpoise and mining were among the issues discussed during bilateral talks Mexico’s Economy Minister Raquel Buenrostro held separately on Thursday with United States Trade Representative Katherine Tai and Canadian Minister of International Trade, Export Promotion, Small Business and Economic Development Mary Ng.

The three officials are in Cancún, Quintana Roo, for the third meeting of the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) Free Trade Commission.

A discussion point at the meeting was Mexico’s state-first energy policy, which has prompted both Canada and the U.S. to request dispute resolution consultations under USMCA rules. The issue still isn’t resolved. (Government of Mexico)

In her meeting with Buenrostro, Ambassador Tai “stressed the importance of Mexico fully meeting its USMCA commitments, including those related to certain of Mexico’s energy measures [sic], enforcement of its fisheries-related environmental laws, and biotechnology measures,” according to a statement issued by the Office of the United States Trade Representative (USTR).

In 2022, both the United States and Canada requested dispute resolution consultations with Mexico under USMCA over energy policies that favor Mexican state-owned companies over private foreign ones. The issue still hasn’t been resolved almost a year later.

Tai said before Thursday’s meeting that some progress had been made, but “deep-seated” concerns remained.

“If we are not able to make more progress, the next step in the formal toolkit would be the request for a dispute settlement panel,” she said.

US Trade Representative Katherine Tai
U.S. Trade Representative Tai has said that Mexico’s nationalistic energy policies disincentivize investment from U.S. clean-energy suppliers and companies seeking to buy clean energy. (usembassy.gov)

That option has been available to the United States since late last year, but it has chosen not to use it. There was no indication in the USTR statement, nor in a press release issued by Mexico’s Economy Ministry (SE), that the request for a panel was imminent.

The Canadian Ministry of International Trade said that Ng in her meeting with Buenrostro “expressed gratitude for the progress between Canada and Mexico on Mexico’s energy reforms, addressing concerns of Canadian companies, and looks forward to a full resolution.”

The biotechnology measures mentioned in the USTR statement refer to Mexico’s plan to ban imports of GM corn for human consumption by 2024, as well as GM corn used as animal feed at an unspecified later date. The United States, a large exporter of yellow corn fodder to Mexico, requested dispute settlement consultations on that issue early last month, and Canada subsequently said it would participate in the talks as a third party.

President López Obrador is steadfastly committed to Mexico’s plan to ban GM corn and acknowledged last month that the United States “might take us to a panel.”

Mexican corn farmer
Mexico says it is phasing out GM corn imports by 2024 to protect Mexicans’ health and Mexico’s native corn from contamination. The U.S. says Mexico’s concerns are not based on good science. (Government of Mexico)

The president, who asserts that GM corn is harmful to human health and poses a threat to native Mexican maize, said earlier this year that “no agreement in the world allows goods that are harmful to health to be bought or sold.”

The USMCA has “clauses that protect consumers, just as the environment and workers are protected,” he added.

The United States can request the establishment of a panel if a resolution isn’t reached 75 days after the commencement of the consultations. Tai reiterated the U.S. position on the GM corn issue before Thursday’s meeting with Buenrostro.

“We stand behind the safety of our agricultural products that have been enjoying a very robust trade between our three countries for several decades now and will continue to pursue our rights and interests,” she said.

Canola harvest in Canada
Canada is not a major corn exporter, but it does send large amounts of GM canola to Mexico, hence Canada’s interest in the outcome of the Mexico-U.S. (Canola Council of Canada)

The SE said in its statement that “relevant advances in the preservation of the vaquita marina and the biodiversity in the upper Gulf of California” were discussed during Buenrostro’s meeting with Tai.

Mexico’s Environment Ministry announced last month that it will expand the “zero tolerance” protection zone for the critically endangered porpoise, whose numbers have been decimated by gillnet fishing for totoaba, a species of fish whose swim bladder is considered a delicacy in China and some other parts of Asia. The vaquita has suffered from being frequent bycatch in totoaba gillnets.

The USTR statement said that Tai also “raised concerns about regulatory uncertainty facing U.S. electronic payment services providers in Mexico” and spoke to Buenrostro about “the importance of addressing the recent surge of imports of steel and aluminum products.”

The two officials “agreed to have their teams intensify their engagement” on the latter issue, the statement said.

U.S. Trade Representative Katherine Tai (L) and Canadian Trade Minister Mary Ng (R) have spent much of the López Obrador administration reacting to Mexico’s desire to enact reforms in several of its industries, including energy, mining and agriculture. (Twitter)

With regard to the USMCA’s “rapid response” labor mechanism — which the United States has used to ask for labor reviews at Mexican workplaces including a mine and a tire factory — Buenrostro “emphasized the importance of a reasonable and good faith use” of the measure, saying that it should be a “last resort” and not seek to replace “national institutions,” according to the SE statement.

The Economy Ministry said that Mexico’s new mining law — which reduces the initial length of mining concessions from 50 years to 30 years, among other measures — was one of the issues discussed in Buenrostro’s meeting with Ng.

The Canadian official “highlighted the important contributions of Canadian mining companies to the development of the Mexican economy” and “discussed the importance of implementing mining reforms that uphold rules-based trade,” including under the USMCA and World Trade Organization agreements.

If the Canadian government believes Canadian mine owners are being treated unfairly in Mexico, it could potentially challenge the new mining law under USMCA mechanisms.

Mine in Mexico
In 2021, over half of foreign-owned mines in Mexico were the property of Canadian companies. (Canal del Congreso)

The SE said that Buenrostro and Ng also spoke about a ruling in Mexico in Canada’s favor in January regarding a dispute with the United States over content rules for vehicles, as well as “other issues of shared interest.”

Trilateral talks were scheduled for Friday, the summit’s final day.

The USTR said in a statement last week that officials would “discuss how the parties can further facilitate economic growth and investment to increase competitiveness in North America.”

Tai’s office said that exports of U.S. goods and services to Mexico and Canada were valued at almost US $790 billion last year, a 31% increase from 2012 and a 366% increase from 1993.”

Mexico was the United States’ second largest trade partner last year after Canada, with two-way trade worth $779.3 billion. Mexican exports accounted for $324.4 billion, while U.S. exports were worth $454.9 billion.

Two-way trade between Mexico and Canada was valued at $49.7 billion in 2022, according to the Canadian government.

With reports from Reuters 

Car manufacturing up nearly 14% in Mexico in first half of year

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BMW factory
Automobile manufacturing is a central part of the Mexican economy. BMW's sales have increased nearly 110% in 2023. (BMW)

Mexico’s light vehicle production was up 13.9% in the first half of this year compared to the same period of 2022, as the country’s automotive industry continues to recover from the pandemic.

According to a report by the nation’s statistics agency INEGI, 1.9 million light vehicles were produced in Mexico between January and June. Of these, 76.5% were light trucks. The rest were cars.

BMW factory
Car sales finally appear to have rebounded after the supply chain and shutdown issues related to COVID-19. (BMW)

The strongest growth was registered by Audi, Honda and BMW Group, with production increases of 152.4%, 124.7% and 109.8%, respectively. The only companies that saw a decline in production were Mercedes-Benz, General Motors, KIA and Stellantis.

During June, 331,707 light vehicles were produced in Mexico, a 16.3% annual increase. Exports were up 20.46%, to 286,291 vehicles, while internal sales were up 25.66%, to 113,553 vehicles.

The figures are the latest sign that Mexico’s automotive industry is recovering well from the global supply chain issues caused by the COVID-19 pandemic. In May, 102,697 new light vehicles were sold in Mexico, making it the first May to surpass prepandemic sales from 2019.

The automotive industry is vital to Mexico’s economy, contributing almost 4% of GDP and 20.5% of manufacturing GDP, according to the Mexican Association of the Automotive Industry.

Audi plant in San Jose Chiapa, Puebla, Mexico
Cars being manufactured at the Audi plant in San José Chiapa, Puebla. (Carlos Aranda/Unsplash)

The sector shrank by more than 20% in 2020, when the pandemic forced production plants to close. Car manufacturing fell by a further 2% in 2021 due to a shortage of semiconductor chips.

However, the sector rebounded in 2022 — with 9.24% annual growth in production, 5.86% in exports and 7.03% in sales — and continues to flourish in 2023. The industry has also benefited from the nearshoring of operations from Asia, including those related to car assembly and to the manufacturing of key inputs such as semiconductors.

In the first nine months of 2022, Mexico became the leading exporter of cars to the U.S., taking the top spot for the first time ever.

With reports from El Economista and Yahoo Finanzas

Meet the man who brought Napa Valley to Lake Chapala

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Serapio and Lupita at a table.
Don Serapio Ruiz and his wife Lupita opened El Tejón vineyards 25 years ago, when they were told it was impossible to grow wine grapes in the Lake Chapala area. (John Pint)

While more and more foreigners are flocking to Lake Chapala’s north shore, the south side of the lake has caught the fancy of grape growers. Seven vineyards have appeared on the lake’s southern shore over the last few years, and two of them, Viñedos El Tejón and Finca La Estremancia, now accept visitors.

This entire viticulture frenzy, it seems, started thanks to the expertise and enthusiasm of just one man: Serapio Ruiz Rivera. Don Serapio started trying to grow grapes here 25 years ago when many claimed it was impossible.

Rows of grapevines
Viñedos El Tejón grows a wide variety of grapes on 26 hectares of land near San Luís Soyatlán, Jalisco. (John Pint)

I recently found myself on the south shore, headed for what may be the most curious place on the whole lake: Igloo Kokolo, an environmental education center that looks more like a Smurf village than anything else.

While passing through the little town of San Luís Soyatlán, located 11 kilometers directly south of Ajijic, my friends and I decided to try making a Mexican-style surprise visit to Don Serapio and his wife Lupita at the El Tejón vineyard.

Just finding El Tejón turned out to be an adventure. We expected Google Maps to take us right there; what we didn’t expect was to suddenly find ourselves on a lonely, ever-worsening dirt road, apparently in the middle of nowhere. 

“Are you sure this is the way?”

Serapio in his vineyards.
Don Serapio’s vines are protected by mesh. “Possums, foxes, squirrels, birds and leaf-cutting ants all enjoy grapes just as much as we do,” he says. (John Pint)

“Google Maps says so, and Google Maps is…”

“…Is sometimes drastically wrong. Do you remember the time when…?”

In this case, Google Maps’ reputation was vindicated. Suddenly, we were in front of a gate with a sign reading Viñedos el Tejón. And behind the gate, very healthy-looking grapevines stretched off as far as the eye could see.

Don Serapio was somewhere among those grapevines, working in the heat of the day, but we were welcomed into the cool patio of his home by his wife María Guadalupe Amescuader de Ruíz, known to all as Lupita. She immediately poured us a cup of their white wine.

“This is a malvasia with chardonnay,” said Lupita, “fermented with its own natural yeast. All of our wines are as close to natural as you can get. So the bottom of this bottle is cloudy because we haven’t filtered it. Instead, we clarify it with ice in the form of frozen jugs of water which we put into the vat.”

Lupita told us that her husband fell in love with grapes during the 45 years he spent working in California’s Napa Valley. 

Don serapio serves a cup of pajarete to a visitor.
Not just wine… Don Serapio offers a pajarete (an alcoholic drink made with raw milk) to a visitor. (EVTMX)

Many people in the wine industry know my husband’s name,” she told us. “In California, Spain, France and Chile, they all know Don Serapio and his talent for grafting grapevines. From Napa Valley, we brought small vines here to see how they might do at the lakeside.” 

“We brought more than 20 varieties of grapes,” Lupita said, “and now we’re growing syrah, tempranillo, cabernet, chardonnay, malvasia, sauvignon blanc, grenache, Douro, pinot noir, nebbiolo and others. Actually, we only found two or three varieties that didn’t do well because they need a colder climate.”

At this point, we were joined by Don Serapio. I took advantage to ask him how he got involved with growing grapes for wine-making.

“When I first went to California,” he told me, “I started out working with strawberries, but along came immigration, and they sent me home to Mexico. Afterward, I found my way back, and the people I was with invited me to Napa to pick pears.”

After working in Napa, Don Serapio returned to Mexico in 1978, where he married Lupita. Thinking about where they could raise their children in the U.S., they were attracted by the peace and safety Napa offered in comparison to other California cities. 

Don Serapio began working in grapevine grafting in Napa, where he and his family lived for 46 years.

Wines and cheese on a table.
With its mild lakeside climate, Viñedos El Tejón enjoys two harvests per year, in January and in July. (El Tejón)

Don Serapio also told us the story of how he became the owner of Rancho El Tejón (Badger Ranch), a name that he says goes back at least 100 years:

“It was 6 a.m. A woman was sweeping the street. ‘Hey Serapio,” she says, ‘I’m glad I ran into you. Would you mind coming to graft some trees for me?’

“I said, ‘Okay, let me tie up my mule.’ So I went into her house and said, ‘OK, we have to put the scions in water so the grafts will take. Tomorrow I’ll come to see how they look, and then you can tell me where to put the grafts.’”

The next day, as Don Serapio was grafting, the woman’s phone rang. One of her brothers was calling to ask if the deal to sell El Tejón would really be going through. 

No, she told him. The buyer had changed his mind.

“I said, ‘You’re selling El Tejón?’” Don Serapio recalled. He asked to speak to her brother and paid the asking price without trying to talk the seller out of a single peso. 

The very same day, he became the owner of the vineyard, which happened to lie right next to land he already owned, bringing his property up to a total of about 26 hectares. 

“Plenty of space to experiment with new varieties,” he said.

Curiously, in Mexico the word tejón is applied to both the real North American badger, which is mainly nocturnal and quite aggressive, and the Mexican coati, a playful, diurnal creature, said to look like a cross between a raccoon, a monkey and an anteater. 

“We’ve got both kinds here on our property,” says Don Serapio, who that says both populations are rather numerous, in fact. “Rancho El Tejón is really well-named.”

  • You can arrange a visit to El Tejón by calling Don Serapio at 333 492 4723 or Lupita at 331 262 7658. Both of them speak English. Ask Google Maps to take you to Viñedo El Tejón, Sinaloa, Fracc. Las Brisas, San Luis Soyatlan, Jalisco. To contact the above-mentioned Finca La Estremancia, call 331 546 4631.

Mexico Pacific signs 20-year LNG deal with Chinese company

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A tanker ship
Mexico Pacific will ship liquefied natural gas from a planned processing facility — the not-yet-built Saguaro Energía plant — to China, currently experiencing a high demand for LNG. (Ray Harrington/Unsplash)

Houston-based company Mexico Pacific Limited (MPL) will sell 1 million tonnes of liquefied natural gas (LNG) per year over a 20-year-period to Chinese company Zhejiang Energy, using a Mexican LNG production facility in Sonora under development by MPL.

MPL’s Saguaro Energía plant, to be located in Puerto Libertad, Sonora, will process natural gas bought from U.S. producers and exported to Mexico via existing cross-border pipelines before shipping it onward to Asia. MPL has said it will begin exporting gas in 2027.

A CGI-render of the Saguaro Energia facility in Sonora
A CGI rendering of the planned Saguaro Energia facility in Sonora. (Mexico Pacific Limited)

The Shell oil company is another prominent customer that plans to buy LNG processed at the Sonora plant. Shell and MPL signed their third 20-year LNG supply agreement in March. 

Ivan Van der Walt, CEO of MPL, said that his company is “delighted” with the Zhejiang deal, adding that “LNG is an important pillar to China’s energy security needs and its underlying green policy ambitions.”

Xiqiang Chai, Deputy General Manager at Zhejiang Provincial Energy, agreed that the agreement is “an important step in further diversifying our energy supply portfolio and strengthening Zhejiang Energy’s natural gas industry.”

Zhejiang Provincial Energy Group is one of China’s government-backed city gas distributors, now competing on the global market. It owns a 51% stake in an LNG terminal in Wenzhou, on China’s eastern coast, and holds a 20-year supply agreement with Exxon Mobil.

Natural gas pipeline
AMLO has said that a new pipeline to be built by Mexico Pacific would funnel U.S LNG to Sonora for processing, but it is not yet clear if the pipeline is still in a planning phase or will even be built. Existing pipelines could do the job. (Depositphotos)

Chinese LNG importers have been racing to sign contracts with producers, including in Qatar and the U.S. in recent months, after LNG prices in Asia reached record highs.

MPL’s Saguaro Energía will have a production capacity of 14.1 million metric tons per year. It has access to the nearby Permian Basin, which straddles the U.S. states of Texas and New Mexico and contains more than 600 million cubic feet of natural gas resources.

The company boasts that the Saguaro plant offers “the lowest landed price of North American LNG into Asia,” and “a significantly shorter shipping route, avoiding Panama Canal transit risk for Asian markets.”

The construction of the plant was announced by President López Obrador last year, who said it represented a US $2.5 billion investment in Mexico. In May 2023, López Obrador said that MPL is now planning to invest US $14 billion in a natural gas pipeline and liquefaction plant in Sonora, although the details of this plan remain unclear and unconfirmed by MPL.

With reports from Reuters and Gas World

Annual inflation fell for 5th consecutive month in June

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Pesos
Inflation rates are once again down, to 5.06%, say national statistics agency INEGI - slightly above consensus forecasts by Citibanamex. (pxfuel)

Mexico’s annual headline inflation rate slowed to 5.06% in June, its lowest level since March 2021, according to data from the national statistics agency INEGI.

The rate declined for a fifth consecutive month in June, and has now fallen 2.85 percentage points from the 7.91% reading in January. The annual rate in May was 5.84%.

Produce for sale in Tepoztlán, Morelos, 2015.
Headline inflation rate continues to drop for the fifth consecutive month, reaching the lowest rates since 2019. (thelastcarmusai/Wikimedia)

The 5.06% rate for June is slightly above a 5.04% consensus forecast of analysts surveyed by Citibanamex.

Despite the recent string of declines, headline inflation remains above the central bank’s target of 3%, with tolerance for one percentage point in either direction.

On a month-over-month basis, the National Consumer Price Index, which measures headline inflation, increased 0.10%, INEGI said.

The annual core inflation rate, which excludes volatile food and energy prices, was 6.89% in June, down from 8.45% in January and 7.39% in May. It was the first time since March 2022 that core inflation was below 7%. On a month-over-month basis, the rate increased 0.30%.

Pantheon Macroeconomics Latin America chief Andres Abadia attributes the strong performance of the Mexican economy to low raw materials costs, the peso’s strong performance and the “delayed effect of tighter fiscal conditions.” (Globelynx)

Andrés Abadia, chief of Latin America at Pantheon Macroeconomics, said that “the delayed effect of tighter financial conditions, lower prices for raw materials and the impressive performance of the Mexican peso in recent months” all contributed to lower annual inflation in June.

The Bank of Mexico raised its benchmark interest rate to a record high of 11.25% in March, and left it at that level following monetary policy meetings in May and June. Meanwhile, the Mexican peso has appreciated significantly this year and reached its best position against the dollar in almost eight years on Wednesday before weakening slightly on Thursday.

The strength of the peso has boosted consumption of imported goods, the bank Banco Base said in a recent report, but inflation is still placing pressure on the budgets of millions of Mexicans.

INEGI data showed that prices for processed food, beverages and tobacco were 10.49% higher in June than a year earlier, while non-food goods were 5.7% more expensive and services were 5.25% dearer.

Meat prices increased by 2.05% on an annual basis — down from 5.9% in May — while fruit and vegetables were 3.98% more expensive, a slight increase compared to the previous month.

Energy prices, including those for gasoline and electricity, helped drive inflation down in June, falling 3.08% on an annual basis.

The strong peso has boosted Mexico’s consumption of imports, but it has done little to solve cost-of-living concerns for many Mexicans. (Pat Whelen/Unsplash)

Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at Banco Base, noted on Twitter that the annual inflation rate for processed food has been above 10% for 11 months. The 10.49%  rate recorded in June is “one of the reasons why inflation in Mexico still feels very high,” she wrote.

The Bank of Mexico is currently forecasting that annual headline inflation will fall to 4.6% in the final quarter of 2023, and continue declining throughout next year to reach 3.1% in Q4 of 2024.

With reports from El Financiero and El Economista 

El Refugio de Potosí, a hidden eco-reserve on the Guerrero coast

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whale skeleton
Refugio De Potosí is an incredible gem, located less than an hour from the beach towns of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo. (All photos by Elisabeth Ashe)

Whenever I get the chance to travel, I enjoy searching out museums, sanctuaries or parks and special hidden gems. Until recently, however, I’d neglected to visit the extraordinary Refugio de Potosí, an ecological sanctuary less than an hour from the beach towns of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, where I live. 

Established in 2008 by Pablo Mendizabal and Laurel Patrick to promote the conservation of and education about local native species, El Refugio de Potosí is a nonprofit 7-hectare ecological park located in a tropical dry forest in the town of Barra de Potosí, on the Guerrero coast.

(Elisabeth Ashe)
The sanctuary’s mission is to educate the public about native and endangered species in Guerrero.

When I met up with Patrick, she was with several of her volunteers near one of the educational pavilions, where she was discussing the scientific experiments they’d be presenting to a school group later that week. Her volunteers are university students studying biology, ecology and environmental education and working toward their practicums at the reserve. 

Charming garden paths meander in and out of an array of botanical displays here, which include an iguana habitat, macaw roosts, a wildlife pond and an 18-meter high observation tower from which you can watch native birds over the vast landscape.

Patrick and I began our tour with the newly built ConCeniencia education center, which houses the skull of an American crocodile and the encasement of eggs from local birds. Next to the display is a wall chart to help you match which egg belonged to which species.

Outside, we took a path past the wildlife pond to the hummingbird station to sit and watch as a constant stream of the birds nourished themselves at the numerous feeding stations. There’s even a hummingbird chair. 

The Hummingbird chair (Elisabeth Ashe)
The hummingbird chair offers a moment of zen for visitors amidst the heat of the Guerrero coast.

It was a moment of zen; if not for the blisteringly hot day, I could have sat there forever. 

As we trailed down a pathway to education stations that served as teaching opportunities for guides giving tours, I asked Patrick whether local guides gave tours at El Refugio. 

“Only some people are allowed to bring their tours here,” she replied. “We are looking for tour companies that understand the park and are willing to educate visitors on what we are achieving here. We are not interested in tour guides who spend most of their time on their phones or tourists only here to picnic.”

“People think we are a zoo,” she added. “We are not … although we do have some animals and birds that we have rescued.” 

(Elisabeth Ashe)
The reserve also boasts an extensive collection of bird eggs.

As we walked, I felt that Patrick was indeed the kind of guide she hoped to attract: she knew an amazing amount about every single insect, bird and creature in the area.

Although the goal of El Refugio de Potosí is always to return animals they rehabilitate to the wild, some inhabitants stay in the sanctuary forever because they can’t or don’t know how to feed themselves or survive independently. Two of these permanent residents included a Mexican hairy dwarf porcupine and a deer.  

A little farther along, we entered the Guacamaya Aviary, where El Refugio keeps the military macaws. It’s large enough for the birds to fly freely. Patrick told me that she hopes to train the birds to leave their enclosure during the day and return each evening for safety’s sake.

And finally she took me to the exhibit I was anxious to see, touted as one of the world’s largest assembled sperm whale skeleton. The story of how it came to be at the refuge is detailed in a thrilling narrative on their website. 

(Elisabeth Ashe)
The sanctuary also boasts one of the largest assembled sperm whale skeletons in the world.

Even after the whale skeleton, there was still an endless array of flora and fauna to see — horned owls, iguanas and much more. Numerous signs along the paths explained everything I was seeing.

Given the heat of the day, I opted out of the 18-meter climb to the tower. I promised myself that next time I’m at El Refugio — and there definitely will be a next time — I’d be better prepared with a hat, sunscreen and an earlier start to the day.

  • To find out more and to book a tour, contact El Refugio de Potosí by phone at 755-557-2840 or via email at [email protected]. They are located in the Playa Blanca neighborhood of Zihuatanejo on Lot 7.

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

Chapultepec Zoo celebrates 100 years

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panda at Chapultepec Zoo in mexico city
The zoo, located in the sprawling Chapultepec Park in central Mexico City, has everything from axolotls, to snakes and even giant pandas! (Chapultepec Zoo)

Mexico’s oldest zoo, the Chapultepec Zoo in Mexico City, has turned 100 years old. 

Founded by Alfonso Luis Herrera, the “father of biology in Mexico,” the Chapultepec Zoo began construction on July 6, 1923, and opened in October 1924. The zoo is named in Herrera’s honor: its full name in Spanish is Zoológico de Chapultepec Alfonso Herrera. 

Boasting a collection of 1,236 animals, the Chapultepec Zoo is the nation’s most visited. (Chapultepec Zoo)

To mark its 100-year anniversary, the zoo held a parade Thursday morning with live music and performers wearing costumes of the zoo’s animals. 

In its beginnings, the Chapultepec Zoo was like any other: a place to display captive animals for people to view. It was the only zoo in Mexico City where people could find animals from all over the world, said head of the city’s Zoos and Wildlife Conservation Directorate Fernando Gual Sill in an interview with the newspaper El Universal. 

Today, the Chapultepec Zoo is a conservation center, a scientific research center and a recreational space that educates the public about animal protection. 

There are a range of biomes, many of which reflect the diverse nature of Mexico. (Chapultepec Zoo)

“Nowadays, zoos around the world, including those in Mexico City, are consolidating themselves into centers for wildlife conservation,” Gual said.  

The zoo displays and cares for different species, including lions, jaguars, giraffes, kangaroos and zebras. It also cares for endangered species like the giant panda and for endemic animals like the Xochimilco axolotl or the volcano rabbit.   

It also develops breeding, conservation and research programs on priority species such as the Mexican wolf and the California condor. 

Part of these conservation efforts include one of Latin America’s first “frozen zoos,” a bank of genetic material with 1,400 samples of some 29 species of animals that are stored in frozen liquid nitrogen tanks. In the coming decades, these samples will be used in reproduction programs. 

Chapultepec Zoo was the first place in the country where Mexicans could see animals from across the world. (Chapultepec Zoo)

Among the DNA samples kept in the frozen zoo are those from giant pandas, Mexican wolves, jaguars and bighorn sheep. 

Gual told the magazine Wired that modern-day zoos have helped rescue some species from extinction, including the Mexican wolf. In 2014, the Chapultepec Zoo reported the first Mexican wolf pups born following artificial insemination. The procedure was done using genetic material from the bank. 

With reports from El Universal, Wired and CDMX Secreta