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Human rights commission proposes structural reform to ‘reaffirm autonomy’

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Mexico's National Commission on Human Rights' President, Rosa Piedra Ibarra.
The National Commission on Human Rights' President, Rosa Piedra Ibarra. (Photo: CNDH/Twitter)

The National Human Rights Commission (CNDH) has proposed an initiative to transform itself into the National Ombudsman’s Office for the Rights of the People, a Constitutional reform that would increase its powers and assert its autonomy from the Senate.

The CNDH argued in public statements that the agency has been plagued by high spending and poor results since its creation in 1990. Reform is necessary to further the transformation that has taken place under current president Rosario Piedra Ibarra, it said.

“Today, with fewer resources, we have the CNDH’s best historical results: more declarations of unconstitutionality are issued, more recommendations, and the number of files has increased significantly,” a statement issued on Jan. 30 said.

“The time has come to consolidate these changes and move forward with its reform. For this reason, [Piedra Ibarra] presented a bill to the Chamber of Deputies and senators to elevate the CNDH to the rank of ombudsman, not only to serve the poor, as has been wrongly suggested, but… to reaffirm its autonomy and enhance the scope of its mission.”

Piedra Ibarra first announced the initiative on Jan. 25, during the presentation to Congress of the CNDH’s annual report for 2022, but she did not make the full text public. According to the CNDH’s subsequent statements, and according to media that have reviewed the initiative, the key reforms it proposes include:

Graph showing number of recommendations per year by Mexico's National Commission on Human Rights
This graph tracks the number of human rights recommendations the National Human Rights Commission has made to the government since 2017. In 2022, it made a total of 302, more than ever before, a point it stressed in its proposal. (CNDH)
  • The institution’s president and advisory council will be elected by the people, rather than by the Senate, and possibility for reelection will be limited.
  • It will be able to demand enforcement of its recommendations, without having to rely on government bodies.
  • It will prioritize direct attention to victims.
  • The CNDH’s statements argue that its current structure reflects the “neoliberal” approach of previous governments who, it claims, lacked interest in human rights. For this reason, it argues, autonomous bodies such as the CNDH became “very costly bureaucratic apparatuses” that only have the power to play a “testimonial role.”

The initiative thus seeks to create a more robust human rights body with greater enforcement capacity, operating under a tighter budget, the statement said.

However, the proposal has been criticized by some observers who argue that the commission has become politicized and is overstepping its mandate to promote the agenda of President López Obrador.

“The CNDH stopped defending victims of human rights violations to become the Ministry of Press and Propaganda for [AMLO’s party] Morena,” Senator Emilio Álvarez Icaza wrote on Twitter.

The language used in the CNDH’s statement, describing the body’s structure as reflecting “neoliberal” ideas, is frequently used by President Lopez Obrador, who uses the adjective to negatively describe previous federal governments, previous presidents and most opponents, who he says don’t have in mind the people’s best interests but rather elites’.

Piedra Ibarra is the daughter of the late Rosario Ibarra de Piedra, a left-wing political activist who fought for justice for Mexico’s missing persons. Daughter Rosario is known as a political ally of AMLO. She has headed the CNDH since 2019, during which time the agency has sided with the president on several contentious reforms.

Mexico's President Lopez Obrador and its National Human Rights Commission President Rosario Piedra Ibarra.
Rosario Piedra Ibarra with President López Obrador at a 2019 CNDH awards ceremony. Critics of Piedra Ibarra claim she’s using her position as CNDH chief to further the president’s agenda. (Photo: Andrea Murcia Monsivais/Cuartoscuro)

For instance, in September, the CNDH declared that it would not challenge legislative reform that put the National Guard under military control, despite concern from many organizations about Mexico’s ongoing militarization.

In October, the CNDH supported AMLO’s controversial bid to reform the National Electoral Institute (INE), which many human rights organizations fear will undermine the independence of the electoral body. The CNDH openly argued that the reform would “vindicate the people’s right to democracy,” claiming that the INE “has only served to maintain vices that… have tainted our electoral processes.”

The INE responded that “the Constitution establishes that human rights protection bodies are not competent when dealing with electoral matters.”

In this context, Mexican media outlet Latinus has pointed out that one implication of the CNDH’s recent initiative would be to give it broad powers to investigate acts and omissions by the INE and Electoral Tribunal in the field of human rights.

The human rights NGO Centro Prodh also criticized the CNDH’s initiative, arguing that its focus on legal reforms and budget reduction is inadequate in the face of pressing concerns surrounding militarization, disappearances and impunity.

“Our fundamental criticism is that autonomy has not been consolidated,” the NGO tweeted. “We don’t support emphasizing only budget reduction, in a context of subordination to the political power of the day.”

Centro Prodh also pointed out that the CNDH lacks the legal power to present initiatives and would have to gain the support of legislators to advance the proposal.

“Instead of advancing in this route, we must open a profound and plural debate about the weakened ombudsperson system,” the NGO argued.

With reports from Latinus, Animal Político and Forbes

Grupo México secures funds to buy Citibanamex, Reuters reports

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Citibanamex building
The Grupo México conglomerate has been a top contender to purchase the bank for months. (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

Grupo México has secured US $5 billion in financing for its proposed purchase of Citibanamex, Reuters reported Wednesday.

Citing unnamed people familiar with the matter, the news agency said that several banks including Barclays and HSBC have agreed to provide funding for the conglomerate’s purchase of Citigroup’s Mexican retail bank, commonly known as Banamex.

Reuters described the financing arrangement as a “major milestone in Grupo México’s efforts to put together the deal for Banamex,” which the New York-based Citigroup acquired in 2001.

Its sources said that the transaction would value the bank at between US $7 and $8 billion.

Grupo México, controlled by billionaire businessman Germán Larrea, has interests in areas including mining, transport, infrastructure and entertainment.

While the conglomerate appears set to purchase Banamex, the Reuters sources said the deal isn’t guaranteed as negotiations could break down at the last minute.

Businessman Germán Larrea of Grupo México
Businessman Germán Larrea attends President López Obrador’s 2019 annual report. (Cuartoscuro)

Banca Mifel, a Mexican bank, also found investors to fund a bid to buy Banamex, but Grupo México emerged as the front-runner in recent weeks, the sources said.

They said that Citi had decided to prioritize a deal with Larrea, Mexico’s second richest person.

Carlos Slim’s Inbursa bank, Spain’s Santander and Mexico’s Banorte expressed interest in purchasing Banamex last year, but subsequently dropped out of the contest.

Citigroup announced in January 2022 that it would sell Banamex. The bank, Reuters reported, is offloading its Mexican retail bank as part of CEO Jane Fraser’s efforts to sell some international operations and simplify the business.

Fraser met with President López Obrador in Mexico City on Wednesday but no official information about their discussions was released. The latter made it clear shortly after Citi announced its decision to sell Banamex that his preference was for the bank to be “Mexicanized.”

The president has said that profits made by foreign companies in Mexico are often not reinvested in the local economy.

CEO of Citigroup, Jane Fraser
Jane Fraser, CEO of Citigroup, met with President López Obrador on Wednesday. (Wikimedia Commons)

Writing in the El Economista newspaper on Thursday, columnist Marco A. Mares predicted that an announcement about the sale of Banamex will be made sometime during the first quarter of 2023.

“The most probable” outcome, he wrote, is that Banamex will be majority-owned by Larrea and that a portion of the bank will be placed on the stock market via an initial public offering (IPO). Reuters reported earlier this week that Citi was considering an IPO.

Banamex is Mexico’s third largest bank with over 1,200 branches and some 23 million customers, the news agency EFE reported this week.

With reports from Reuters 

New direct flights announced to Los Cabos, Monterrey and Cozumel

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The island of Cozumel will be serviced by a direct flight out of Mexico City International Airport (AICM) starting in March. ( Depositphotos)

Three destinations in Mexico will now have more direct flights available.

Los Cabos-Cancún

Starting in May, Los Cabos and Cancún will be connected with a daily VivaAerobus flight, according to the president of the Los Cabos Hotel Association, Mauricio Pérez. The estimated flight duration is 3.5 hours.

Phoenix-Monterrey

Another new direct flight, between Phoenix, Arizona and Monterrey, Nuevo León was launched by American Airlines on Jan. 10. The daily flight, operated on an Embraer 175, departs Phoenix nightly at 7:50 p.m. and arrives in Monterrey at 11 p.m. The return flight takes off at 8 a.m. and arrives at 9:40 a.m.

“Mexico is Phoenix’s number one trade and tourism partner which makes air service to Monterrey increasingly important for our local economy,” said Phoenix Mayor Kate Gallego.

Mexico City (AICM)-Cozumel

Starting on Mar. 26, Cozumel, Quintana Roo will be added to the list of Aeroméxico’s domestic network flying out of Mexico City International Airport (AICM).

The announcement was made by both the airline and the state governor Mara Lezama Espinosa, who highlighted through social media that Aeroméxico was announcing this new route from Mexico City to the “isla de las golondrinas,” or “island of the swallows”, as it is also known.

“With this extraordinary news, more work and income will arrive on the island […] Welcome to Cozumel everybody!” said Lezama on her social media profiles.

In total, the company announced four new direct routes, all departing from the AICM, to Colima, Cozumel, Tepic and Ciudad Victoria.

With reports from Sky Harbor, BCS Noticias

3 hotels evicted from properties in Tulum, guests and all

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Workers, guests and furniture were thrown out of the hotel Coco Unlimited, before they struck a deal with prosecutors and were allowed to return.
Workers, guests and furniture were thrown out of the hotel Coco Unlimited, before they struck a deal with prosecutors and were allowed to return. Three other hotels were less fortunate. (Via Quinta Fuerza)

Three hotels in the coastal area of ​​Tulum were evicted Wednesday morning, apparently due to a dispute between the properties and the company Santa María S. de R. L.

Workers and even guests had to leave the hotels when agents of the Quintana Roo Prosecutor’s Office and the police began the eviction pursuant to orders of two civil courts based in the municipality of Solidaridad.

The affected hotels were Orchid Beach House, Tatich Tulum and Kuuxum. Although agents of the Prosecutor’s Office also arrived at the hotel Coco Unlimited, the eviction there was suspended. According to the newspaper Milenio, this was the only lodging center in which actuaries and owners reached an agreement for guests and workers to return to the place as well as hotel furniture that had already been evicted.

The newspaper La Jornada Maya reported that the operation lasted more than four hours and ended in the afternoon. Since cargo trucks were parked outside the properties for employees to load the furniture, traffic was affected.

According to La Jornada Maya, the company Santa María S. de R. L. argues it owns the hotel properties. Other hotel owners reportedly said they were surprised to learn that lawsuits between the Pino Suárez ejido and hotels over property ownership continue to take place.

Milenio reported that none of the owners or managers involved in the evictions gave statements about what happened.

With reports from La Jornada Maya and Milenio

Tamales and dressing baby Jesus: Mexican La Candelaria traditions

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A vendor at the Juárez market in México state displays one of her baby Jesus figurines.
A vendor at the Juárez market in México state displays one of her baby Jesus figurines. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar / Cuartoscuro.com)

On Feb. 2, many families across Mexico celebrate Día de la Candelaria, or Candlemas Day, a holiday in which they get together to eat tamales traditionally paid by those who found the baby Jesus figurine inside the Rosca de Reyes.

Although this festivity could be considered a follow-up celebration to Kings Day, La Candelaria has its origins in biblical events: Catholic tradition recounts that the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus went to the temple 40 days after the baby’s birth, so that the mother could be “purified” as mandated by the Law of Moses, also known as the Torah. The Virgin Mary also brought candles to the temple to be blessed, giving the holiday its name.

However, Día de la Candelaria is also influenced by another event. At the end of the 15th century, two shepherds found an image of the Virgin Mary on the seashore of the Canary Islands in Spain. The Virgin was later named Candelaria.

Eventually, baby Jesus’s presentation at the temple, the Virgin Mary’s purification and the commemoration of the Spanish Virgin Mary of Candelaria started to be celebrated together, leading to the modern Día de la Candelaria. This tradition arrived in America as part of the Spanish Conquest.

As usually happens, the tradition evolved in different ways across Latin America. In Mexico, tamales were fortunately added to the festivities because Feb. 2 was also a special day for the Mexica people (ancient inhabitants of today’s Valley of Mexico).

On this date, the Mexicas celebrated the start of the planting season with the blessing of the corn that would later be planted as a tribute to Tlaloc, the god of rain, asking for a good harvest. With the Spanish conquest, the blessing of the corn stopped and instead the Mexicas would only eat tamales.

A person who gets a slice of king cake with a figurine hidden inside on Kings Day is responsible for providing the tamales come Día de la Candelaria.
A person who gets a slice of king cake with a figurine hidden inside on Kings Day is responsible for providing the tamales come Día de la Candelaria. (Graciela López Herrera / Cuartoscuro.com)

The tamal or tamalli means “carefully wrapped” in Náhuatl and according to Fray Bernardino de Sahagún’s book General History of the Things of the New Spain, tamales were eaten by the Mexicas for special occasions and festivities.

Today, many Indigenous communities still bless the ears of corn that will serve as seeds for the planting season.

Another tradition associated with Día de la Candelaria is the dressing-up of baby Jesus dolls and figurines in elaborate costumes. This tradition was also born in Mexico but in more recent times (1912). It mandates that 40 days after Christmas, baby Jesus must be removed from the nativity scene and covered up with fine fabrics. Nowadays, the baby Jesus is dressed up with all types of outfits made from organza, satin, silk, chamois and taffeta and with sequins, pearls and glitter. During the COVID pandemic, baby Jesus figurines even wore face masks.

According to newspaper Milenio, Mexican families dress up their baby Jesus figurines as a way to strengthen their faith in hard and difficult times. Milenio also reported that on average, people spend between 40 pesos and 300 pesos (US $2 to $16) on an outfit for the baby Jesus.

This tradition is mostly celebrated in Mexico City, where there is an area of Talavera Street in the La Mercerd neighborhood dedicated solely to the selling of baby Jesus outfits. The area was designated as a Cultural Corridor in 2011 by then-Mexico City Mayor Marcelo Ebrard.

With reports from Milenio and Infobae

Aviation workers protest foreign airlines flying domestic routes

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Protesters gathered in the Zócalo , saying "No to Cabotage", referring to the possible right of foreign airlines to fly national routes. (ASPA Prensa Twitter)

Aviation sector workers protested in Mexico City on Tuesday against a legislative proposal to allow foreign airlines to fly domestic routes in Mexico.

President López Obrador sent a foreign airlines cabotage bill to Congress in December, formalizing a proposal he first floated in October.

On Tuesday members of the National Union of Workers, which encompasses the pilots’ association ASPA, protested the bill in front of the National Palace after participating in a march to the Zócalo, the capital’s central square.

The president claims his proposal would reduce costs for travelers and increase domestic connectivity. (Depositphotos)

The protesters projected the message #NoalCABOTAJE, or #NotoCABOTAGE, onto the facade of the National Palace, which is both the seat of executive power and López Obrador’s residence.

Cabotage refers to the right to operate transport routes within a particular country or territory. Under López Obrador’s proposal, a foreign airline could fly into Mexico City from abroad and then transport passengers on domestic flights to destinations such as Cancún or Los Cabos.

Protesters chanted “the skies aren’t sold, the skies are defended” and displayed signs with messages such as “the skies of Mexico for Mexicans,” according to a Reforma newspaper report.

ASPA says that the proposed change to the Civil Aviation Law poses a threat to Mexican aviation sector jobs.

It noted in a statement that foreign airlines are prohibited from flying domestic routes in many countries around the world including Mexico “as it has been proven” that allowing them to do so “doesn’t generate competitiveness or benefit passengers.”

“On the contrary, the national [aviation] industry would be affected in the short term,” ASPA said.

In the Zócalo on Tuesday, the president of the Mexican College of Pilots, Ángel Domínguez Catzín, denounced the taking of decisions “without knowledge and without taking into account the opinion of workers.”

In a message directed to authorities, he declared that “if we want to talk about a true transformation [of Mexico], we need to do it … [in a way that makes] sense for our country.”

López Obrador in October said that allowing foreign airlines to fly domestic routes would increase competition and thus help place downward pressure on ticket prices. His bill asserts that allowing foreign airlines to operate within Mexico will lead to an expansion of regional routes and “air services will be of better quality and efficiency at the lowest cost.”

López Obrador has complained about the lack of flights between regional destinations in Mexico, but ASPA said that allowing foreign airlines to operate here won’t help remedy that problem as they would only fly “profitable routes” between major cities.

Another way the president is aiming to address the lack of air routes between some destinations is via the creation of a state-owned, army-run commercial airline. He said in December that the new government airline – which is set to rekindle the defunct Mexicana brand – will begin operations in late 2023.

With reports from Reforma and El Universal 

14 km of electrical cable stolen from CDMX Metro in 2022

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Mexico City Metro Director Guillermo Calderon
Mexico City Metro Director Guillermo Calderón displays an example of housing for Metro system cables at a press conference on Wednesday. (Photo: Galas Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

The chief of the Mexico City Metro has blamed organized crime for the theft of over 14 kilometers of copper wire from the subway system in 2022.

Guillermo Calderón told a press conference Wednesday that approximately 14.5 kilometers of electrical cable weighing almost 33 tonnes was stolen from tracks last year. An additional 4 tonnes of wire was illegally removed in early January, he said.

The stolen cables were part of systems related to signaling and traction power supply, the Metro’s Twitter account posted on Wednesday.

Calderón dismissed the possibility that a single person was responsible for the crime, saying that it appeared that “an organized crime group” was to blame. The Mexico City Attorney General’s Office is investigating.

The cutting of cables at the Potrero station was identified as a cause of an accident last month on Line 3 of the Metro system that claimed the life of a young woman and injured over 100 passengers.

Calderón said that the theft of cables has primarily occurred on five lines – 2,3,5, A and B – that have aboveground sections.

Remains of cable stolen from Mexico City's Metro system in 2022
The remains of cables stolen from the Metro system in 2022, displayed by Calderón on Wednesday.

Ricardo Jesús Morales Salazar, president of the governing board of the College of Mechanical and Electrical Engineers, said that the theft of cables from the Metro system entails more than just showing up with a handsaw and cutting them off.

“There is an organization … with sufficient people to take away 32 tonnes or more of the material,” he said.

Calderón said that the incidence of the crime has declined since the deployment of over 6,000 National Guard troops to the Metro in mid January. He also said that over 3,500 surveillance cameras are set to be installed across the system, which transports millions of passengers on a daily basis.

Mexico City authorities have suggested that recent “atypical” events on the Metro system, including the Jan. 7 accident and the uncoupling of two train cars on Jan. 15, were the result of sabotage.

National Guard patrolling Mexico City's Metro
Calderón said that cable theft in the Metro has declined since the deployment of over 6,000 National Guard troops to the Metro in mid January. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

The driver of a train involved in the crash was arrested on homicide charges this week after authorities determined he didn’t comply with a low-speed protocol that was in place.

The city government’s management of the public transport system has been questioned in light of the recent events — and a 2021 accident that claimed 26 lives — but Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum denies claims the system is underfunded.

With reports from Milenio and La Razón 

Pop surrealist Okuda San Miguel brings immersive art to Mexico City

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The Spanish artist has taken his work to 80 cities around the globe. (Cuartoscuro)

The Spanish artist known as Okuda San Miguel will take over the entertainment center Frontón México in Mexico City with “Metamorfosis,” an immersive art experience that will run until March 11. 

“Mexican friends, Okuda San Miguel is here. Opening on Wednesday, Feb. 1,” announced the urban artist on his social media pages.

Organizers are promoting “Metamorfosis” as the most “Instagrammable” experience in Mexico.

Visitors take a selfie in the “Metamorfosis” exhibit. (Cuartoscuro)

The exhibit’s protagonists are color, light and sound. To build the experience, Okuda worked with Mexican artisans in the production of large-scale pieces representing his signature style, using geometry and colors. Among those pieces is “Skull House,” a giant sculpture of 10 x 6 meters. 

The artist will also decorate the facade of the emblematic Frontón México, built at the beginning of the 20th Century and located in the Plaza de la República.

In an interview with newspaper Milenio, Okuda said that the Frontón México was covered with a special white vinyl so he could paint on it without touching the original walls, since the building is listed as a property of artistic value by the National Institute of Fine Arts and Literature (INBAL).

Okuda San Miguel is an internationally recognized artist and has brought art installations to 80 cities in countries including India, the United States, Canada and Russia. 

Born as Oscar San Miguel Erice in Santander, Spain in 1980, Okuda San Miguel’s work belongs to the pop surrealism genre, with clear influences from urban art.

With reports from Milenio and Swiss Info

The Purépecha new year is celebrated in Michoacán

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The ancient Indigenous tradition went for hundreds of years without celebration following the conquest, but has been revived. (Cuartoscuro)

From Jan. 31 to Feb. 2, the Purépecha (the Spanish word for p’urhépecha), a group of Indigenous people who live mostly in the northwestern region of the Mexican state of Michoacán, celebrate their new year to thank Mother Earth for her care and kindness throughout the year. 

The celebration includes a ritual called the fire walk. Once the new fire is lit, the Purépecha leaders recall their history and offer a message based on their ancestors’ thoughts to give way to the “new time.”

Each year, the fire walk starts in a different community and rotates among twelve Purépecha villages to strengthen their friendship. This year, the ceremony will be held in the town of Erongarícuaro.

During the ceremony, the participants and Purépecha leaders ask Kurhiahueri (the main god of the pre-Hispanic Purépecha people who represented the Sun) for abundance in harvests, as well as divine permission to use fire to cook the food that the earth will provide them. 

Although the new fire ceremony has cultural significance and is an essential part of the traditions of Michoacán, it was only revived forty years ago, after centuries of not being celebrated. During the Spanish conquest, the ritual was prohibited after conquistador Nuño de Guzmán killed the last Purépecha ruler Tangaxoan II, on February 14, 1530.

Today this festivity is seen to symbolize the unity and strengthening of the contemporary Purépecha people.

With reports from El Sol de Morelia

At the Onilikan craft distillery, Mazatlán’s mangos take center stage

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Onilikan Distillery, Mazatlan, Mexico
Onilikan's spirits are made in Mazatlán but can be found all over Mexico and also in some stores and bars in the U.S. (Bang Up Productions/Twitter)

There are mangoes aplenty in Mexico, and one small distillery in Mazatlán is putting the mango to good use, producing spirits and liqueurs. 

Onilikan — which means “place of liquor” in Nahuatl — is making waves in the international spirits world with its craft liqueurs and spirits.  Known as the only mango distillery in the world, they have won seven international awards for their products.

Onilikan was founded in 2011 by a group of five Canadian and Mexican families, but that’s not who owns it now: One of the founders had experience in the distilling industry in Canada, and another from Mexico was a scientist. Although they sourced their ingredients from Sinaloa, they were based in Canada. Their products were well-received and began winning awards — prior to the pandemic, the company distributed throughout Canada and the United States.

The owners eventually moved the company to Mazatlán to be closer to their source of mangoes but realized traveling between Canada and Mexico was too difficult and decided to sell.  

In 2022, the company was purchased by a Mexican couple: Ana Paola and her husband, Manuel Castro. Ana had worked for the company since its inception and was already well-versed in the company’s operations and the distilling process.

“All the ingredients we use are natural and are sourced locally,” Ana says as she takes me through a tasting of their products. “We use no artificial flavoring or enhancements. That is one of the ways our products are unique.”  

Until recently, the distilling process used a copper German pot still called an Aromat — the only one of its kind in Mexico. In August, they moved to a new location that couldn’t accommodate the Aromat still, so a shiny new copper-and-steel still sits prominently in the foyer ready to be installed.

Paola explains that “there are mango spirits produced by other companies, but they all use artificial flavoring for the mango taste. We use only the mango.”  

Onilikan Distillery, Mazatlan, Mexico
Onilikan’s owners Ana Paola and Manuel Castro at the tasting bar. The couple bought the company from its previous owners last year. (Sheryl Losser)

The mangoes come from Paola and Castro’s groves and are picked in July and August when they are ripe and plentiful. They are then macerated in 100% blue agave and pressed to remove the pulp from the syrup.  

“We use only 100% blue agave in our products,” Ana tells me.  “We only have 10 or 12 agave plants right now, so we source the rest from local producers.”

Their other flavors include tangerine, coffee, tamarind and four spicy vodkas — tamarind and chile pepper, jalapeno, habanero, and chipotle.  They also produce light and dark rums aged in oak barrels, and a Mexican gin made with an alcoholic base of blue agave, which is distilled three times to neutralize the agave’s flavor.  

After the third distillation, they add botanicals of juniper, bay leaf, coriander and orange peel. 

Ana opens a large barrel to show me tamarind macerating in alcohol. Grabbing a handful of it, she explains, “When the tamarind is ready, we will press out the alcohol for our tamarind base.”   She pours me a sample of their Tamarind Picante vodka, which has a spicy taste.

They also sell a vanilla extract produced at the distillery.  They infuse alcohol with vanilla beans in a large pot-bellied bottle sitting in a rack — where it will sit for months until it reaches the right flavor.

In all, Onilikan has 22 flavored spirits and liqueurs. Their two signature products are still the mango aguardiente (moonshine or firewater) and the mango liqueur, both of which have received bronze awards at the San Francisco International Spirits Competition. Their products have received a total of seven international awards, including at competitions in New York and Europe.

Paola and Castro continue to experiment with new flavors, but some don’t meet their high standards.  They tried coconut, but Ana tells me, “The coconut oil would separate during the process and float to the top, leaving an oil film on your lips when you drank it.”  

Onilikan Distillery, Mazatlan, Mexico
The writer’s Onilikan tasting selection, from left to right: Mango Spirits, Licor de Mango, Licor de Café, Tamarind Picante, and Licor de Blue Agave

“We also tried hibiscus, but after fermentation, it would darken to an unappealing color, so we decided not to produce that,” she says. “It took us a year of testing coffee beans from different parts of Mexico for our coffee liqueur.”  They finally decided on beans from Chiapas.

She gives me a sip of the coffee liqueur.  I comment on the very strong coffee flavor.

“Let me show you how we like to serve it,” she says as she goes to the refrigerator. “Try this. It’s the coffee liqueur with evaporated milk.”  I could easily drink a whole glass of this!

She shows me a small booklet of cocktails they’ve compiled, which she says she’s in the process of updating. She gets a lot of ideas from her customers. 

For those who like grapefruit juice, there’s the Mango Girl, made with grapefruit juice, mango liqueur and gin, garnished with mint leaves. Martini drinkers, try the Mango Fire Tini mango spirits with dry vermouth and olives. Their Mazatlán Cocktail uses their mango liqueur with their blue agave liqueur and a twist of orange peel.

Paola and Castro are very proud of their Mexican heritage, and that pride is reflected throughout their shop.  In addition to their vanilla extract, they sell other culinary products produced in Mexico: dried chiles and herbs, moles, salsas, chocolate and even handcrafted kitchen linens.

Even their mango-shaped logo carries their sense of pride. Divided into quadrants featuring the sun, a deer, a palm and, at the bottom, a fish in blue water, it represents Mazatlán. It’s based on an original work of art by a Wixárika (Huichol) artist named Rosendo who uses symbolism from his culture to represent the city.

Onilikan’s promotional material explains the logo: “The sun, the palm, the river and the fish represent the land, a sacred place in the Huichol culture. The deer represents a messenger god called Tamatz Cauyuman who came to Earth to ensure bountiful harvests.”

Onilikan Licores is located at Avenida Insurgentes 23B in Alameda, by Gran Plaza. They offer free tours and tastings. They can be reached at 669-266-8165 or on their Facebook page.  Their products can also be found outside Mazatlán as far away as Monterrey, Culiacán and San Francisco, California.

Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher.  She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán in 2021 and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.