Tuesday, June 17, 2025

Who are the good guys to root for in Mexico’s endless, routine protests?

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Ayotzinapa students at Guerrero Congress
In 2020, students from the Ayotzinapa teacher college set fire to buildings at Guerrero's Congress to protest the kidnapping of 43 students in 2014. Twitter

For the past several months, I’ve been noticing banners on the various buildings of the Universidad Veracruzana campuses across my city that say “20% Salary Increase or Strike.” They’re signed by the university workers’ union, which consists of mostly nonacademic laborers.

I’m a fan of the labor movement, but the institutionalization of these threats to strike — an insider tells me that every year, the workers say they’ll go off the job, they receive a counteroffer from the university and then they accept a 3.5% pay increase — makes me both chuckle and frown.

Why not just institutionalize the 3.5% yearly increase without the scary-looking signs?

Is the protest necessary if we all know the outcome? What kind of weird dance is this?

Maybe it’s because I’m getting older. Maybe it’s because I’m witnessing the political right in my own country co-opt many of the techniques and even slogans that used to be the purview of the left but with assault weapons horrifyingly slung over their shoulders. (“My body my choice?” Really?)

But it’s all just so confusing. Here, for example, I was about to make a brassy comment along the lines of, “If you’re carrying a loaded gun and are dressed for nothing short of guerrilla warfare, it’s going to be hard to convince anyone you’re the one being bullied.”

Then I thought of the Zapatistas, who literally carry guns over their shoulders and are dressed for guerrilla warfare. Ah! The middle part of this Venn diagram is too encompassing, and I’m feeling both weary and panicked about the prospect of having to sort out the difference.

I suppose the short answer would be that one of these groups has been systematically oppressed by the greater society while the other has simply pretended that this was the case for them, even while maintaining about as much power as a non-elected official can.

Still, though. The assault weapons throw me off.

The fact is, protest – especially when it’s violent – is suddenly something I’m suspicious of, which is a very new feeling for me. I’m trying hard to examine those feelings and catch myself, lest I fall into some trap that should be hard to miss.

But I do know one thing: noble cause or not, violence, and the prospect of violence, make me nervous. It’s the point at which I draw the line between acceptable and unacceptable social and political action.

Gandhi and Martin Luther King, Jr. had the right idea: once you start hitting back, the water gets muddy, and one’s moral righteousness along with it.

Especially uncomfortable to think about has been the case of the students from the Ayotzinapa teacher training college in Guerrero, where conflict — often violent conflict — with the government is an established tradition.

Why does a college designed to create educators seem instead to be a guerrilla-warrior training academy?

No one, of course, should have disappeared or been killed for protesting, even violently. Still, it’s hard to figure out what the students are trying to accomplish by constantly daring the authorities to react to them as they take over toll booths, hijack vehicles and assault members of the National Guard.

It hardly seems the way to get the public on their side. And while I’m confused by the president’s apparent reaction of “Oh, those rascals!” I’d certainly get behind him on the plea he made this past week at his morning press conference: “I want to call on the boys … to no longer act in this way … You have to fight for ideals, not for destruction. There should be no rebel without a cause.”

While I agree with his assessment, I don’t understand at all why the behavior is openly tolerated.

All of this is swimming around in my head with bigger questions about the nature and purpose of social protest. Is it possible for a cause to be objectively good or objectively bad? Under what circumstances is violence justified? Even Martin Luther King, Jr. moved a bit closer to Malcolm X’s way of thinking in the end, after all.

Can a cause start out as good and justifiable and then turn sour? How can we tell when someone has lost sight of good intentions? If a hero of a cause loses their way and is no longer good, how much damage will we let them do before we come to our senses?

And if we have to act, how do we pull it off? So many people, myself included, thought that the president would be the kind of hero we’d been waiting for. So now what?

I’m reminded of two of Mexican director Luis Estrada’s more famous films: Herod’s Law and Hell. Both films are satires, and both are set up in such a way that the viewer identifies with and roots for the protagonist even as he descends into increasingly deeper levels of corruption and just plain evil. By the end, you find yourself thinking things like, “Oh, if he can just make that one thing work, all those horrors will have been worth it!”

Art that came later has followed the same antihero narrative that we love and root for, and it often makes me wonder about the extent to which we let ourselves be fooled in real life by nonfictional people.

We rooted for Walter White in Breaking Bad. I’m currently watching the show You on Netflix, and find myself thinking, “Sure, he’s a psychopath, but maybe he and that girl can find happiness together.”

And then I go and take a long, hard look in the mirror. Me, manipulated like that. Me!

I’m not saying that any of these protesters or participants in social movements are evil or unjustified or that they have nefarious intentions. But the fact that it’s so difficult for any of us to switch opinions once we’ve settled upon a certain narrative sure is scary.

Because if beloved heroes of our own modern folklore turned into villains, how long would it take us to recognize it?

The university workers fight with signs, not guns. That, at least, is something I can get behind.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com and her Patreon page.

The iconic cuera garment still a beloved northern Mexico tradition

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Haberli Piel
From front to back: Haeberli Piel's Anabel Rodríguez, Anabel Cárdenas and Diana Morales at Los Pinos, where they exhibited their company's traditional and innovative clothing.

The northeast is not the best-known part of Mexico for many expats, but there is a very good chance you have seen the region’s contribution to the country’s cowboy culture — the cuera. It has an unmistakable flair: a leather jacket heavily decorated with fringe and ornate depictions of flowers and plants.

Leather coats and jackets started out as practical wear for working out on the range, but the main purpose of these garments nowadays is to make a statement. They are popular with politicians, businessmen, musicians and anyone looking to show love for Mexico’s distinctive northern culture.

Showing that love can be pricey — cueras run as high as 35,000 pesos, depending on the quality and type of leather, along with how ornately and finely it is decorated.

The small town of Tula, Tamaulipas, claims credit as the origin of the iconic jacket. Its predecessor was called a cotón, a long deerskin overcoat that cowboys wore to protect themselves from thorns and branches.

During the Mexican Revolution, a general by the name of Alberto Carrera Torres contracted an artisan in this town named Porfirio Reyna Mata to make one. Of course, it could not be an ordinary cotón. Reyna added the floral designs and fringes, taking inspiration from Mexico’s northern indigenous culture, along with its Spanish and Arabesque heritage.

Maria Luisa Martin Font, founder of Haberli Piel company
María Luisa Martín Font in her older years working at Haeberli Piel, date unknown. Courtesy of Haberli Piel

From then until the latter half of the 20th century, such decorated leather wear was exclusively for men. It proved to be extremely popular not only because of its looks but because the shortened version was practical to wear with jeans. It can also be made from different kinds of leather, which allows it to be worn in both cold as well as hot, dry conditions.

But there was nothing like it for women until María Luisa Martín Font stepped into the picture.

The widow of a Swiss-German immigrant, she opened a shop that made bridal gowns and other specialty wear. In 1959, the then-governor of Tamaulipas Norberto Treviño Zapata, decided that the state needed a distinctive women’s outfit, much like that of the china poblana of Puebla and the huipil of the Yucatán Peninsula. He announced a competition, and Martín’s entry won.

She took the basic look of the cuera and adapted it to a tunic-and-skirt set. Traditional fringes and vegetation appear on her entry, along with the Tamaulipas state seal for good measure. It was innovative in part because at that time, nobody considered leather suitable for women’s clothing or anything approaching formal wear.

Interestingly, her version did not include a jacket, not even a modified one. Today, Tamaulipas women do wear cuera outfits, but they now almost always have a jacket as well as a skirt. The tunic is optional.

Despite the cuera’s iconic status, there are few enterprises in Tamaulipas still making the garments by hand. Most are in Tula, but the best known is the company that Martín started after winning the state contest, Haeberli Piel. The business she named after her deceased husband is still around, located in the state capital of Ciudad Victoria, with a gallery in an old mansion in the center of the city.

cueras at Museo de Arte Popular in Mexico City
Examples of Tamaulipas cueras for men and for women exhibited at the Museo de Arte Popular in Mexico City. Alejandro Linares García

Just about all of Martín’s three generations of descendants are involved in the business in one way or another, but it is run by the women of the family, principally Anabel Rodríguez Gerber, Anabel Cárdenas Rodríguez and niece Diana Morales Rodríguez.

Like Martín before them, the company continues to both preserve tradition and innovate, constantly creating new products and new colors but always using the cuera style of decoration.

In addition to jackets and skirts, they make hats of several types, boots, shoes, purses, wallets and even home decorations. The family is in charge of design and quality, but much of the work is done under contract by people in Ciudad Victoria and the surrounding area.

Owning and wearing a cuera, in whatever form, is still extremely important to the identity of people from this state.

“… Immediately you are recognized as being from Tamaulipas, and this gives us much pride because it is a beautiful and elegant outfit. It attracts attention and is comfortable to wear at the same time,” says Cárdenas. “It will never go out of style.”

There are garments more than 60 years old that families still carefully treasure. Tamaulipas declared the cuera part of the state’s official heritage in 2016, even giving it its own day of celebration on October 20.

Haberli Piel products, Tamaulipas
An example of the Haeberli Piel company’s mix of tradition and innovation: these Spanish-style felt hats have the fancy leather trim essential to cueras.

And the town of Tula takes great pride in being where the garment originated. It is one of the main reasons why this little place between Ciudad Victoria and San Luis Potosí was named a Pueblo Mágico by the federal government. Mexican federal authorities have also given examples of these garments as gifts to several recent popes and various European royalty.

In 2021, Tula created a four-meter-tall monument to the jacket on a hill, impossible to miss when you visit.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Love in the air, reporters protest: the week at the morning press conferences

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The president speaks at his Tuesday press conference.
The president speaks at his Tuesday press conference. Presidencia de la República

President López Obrador, once known as El Peje, after a Tabascan fish, was on dry terrain on the weekend in Sonora. He met with members of the indigenous Yaqui and Seri communities and visited two baseball stadiums that are being converted into baseball schools. AMLO’s passion for the sport comes at a price: the stadiums were bought by the government in 2019 for 1.057 billion pesos (US $54.7 million).

Monday

Love was in the air on Monday, for Valentine’s Day.

“Happy Day of Love and Friendship, Mr. President, and to all of you,” said Ricardo Sheffield, the head of the consumer protection agency Profeco, calling the festivity by its alternative name.

Sheffield shared some money-saving romantic advice: “Remember: give love away, don’t buy it,” before mentioning that Russia’s military presence on the Ukrainian border was keeping fuel prices high.

However, there was only so much love on offer from the president.

“Did the people of Mexico know that this man [Carlos Loret de Mola] has an income as a journalist of 35 million pesos a year (US $1.7 million). Who earns that? A scientist, an intellectual and the president all earn … 10 times less,” López Obrador said.

The Tabascan’s derision extended to the #TodosSomosLoret (We Are All Loret) Twitter hashtag.

“My head hangs out of grief, out of shame. ‘Todos somos Loret,'” he said in mockery of the support given to the well known journalist who was been the target of the president’s ongoing attacks at the daily mañaneras.

Reflecting on his weekend trip, the president played a clip of a Seri woman welcoming a delegation by playing a drum and singing.

“This Mexico is sometimes discarded from daily life,” he said. “We forget it exists, and that public life only takes place among elites.”

The president shared a chart showing COVID deaths per capita by country at his Tuesday press conference.
The president shared a chart showing COVID deaths per capita by country at his Tuesday press conference. Presidencia de la República

Tuesday

Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell said the fourth wave of COVID-19 had been declining for three consecutive weeks.

“The COVID hospital units are emptying,” he declared.

The pandemic point man called on those that haven’t been vaccinated to get their shots, lamenting an “epidemic of the unvaccinated.”

The president hailed his government’s achievements in the pandemic: Mexico is “ninth in application of doses and 25th in deaths,” he said, pointing to two charts. The chart for doses was ordered by the absolute number of shots in arms, putting Mexico high on the chart due to its large population. However, the chart for deaths was relative to population size, putting Mexico some 20 places lower than it would be in absolute terms.

Branded “Mexico’s False Messiah” by a British newspaper last year, AMLO passed on the title. He called the journalist Enrique Krauze “the Messiah of Conservatism,” and said that political lobbying groups that received money from the United States might have committed treason.

Wednesday

Elizabeth García Vilchis gave some advice to keep a healthy mind during her media lies segment: “The best vaccine against lying is to inform yourself and compare the data,” she said.

García assured that the Patria (Homeland) vaccine being developed in Mexico wasn’t for chickens and that there were no dodgy deals between Pemex and supplier Baker Hughes. She added that the #TodosSomosLoret (We Are All Loret) Twitter protest, in support of the journalist, had been inflated by Twitterbots.

AMLO lined up the questions: “Let’s see. The lady in the yellow, then you, you, you and you,” he said, pointing to the chosen reporters.

However, one of the chosen few didn’t feel in an inquisitive mood.

“Yesterday … in the Chamber of Deputies and in the Senate, fellow journalists protested … in solidarity for the fallen journalists … With all due respect, we want to tell you that today, we don’t want to ask you questions,” the reporter said.

On Wednesday, one reporter declined to ask questions in protest of the administrations record on violence against media workers.
On Wednesday, one reporter declined to ask questions in protest of the administration’s record on violence against media workers. Presidencia de la República

A moment of silence was held at the end of the conference out of tribute to murdered reporters. Five have been killed so far this year.

Thursday

There was a late start to the conference on Thursday. AMLO was in Tijuana, Baja California, and started at 9 a.m., two hours behind Mexico City time.

He confirmed he’d tour the U.S. border and would travel by military helicopter due to the lack of commercial flights.

The governor, Marina del Pilar Ávila, kept it brief, thanking the president for his second visit in three and half months. She highlighted the federal government’s investigations into the murder of two reporters in Baja California.

Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval, back from a second stint with COVID, detailed the security situation in the crime-ridden state. He said it was the second worst in the country for homicides and human trafficking and the first for vehicle theft.

Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval gave a security report on Thursday.
Defense Minister Luis Cresencio gave a security report on Thursday. Presidencia de la República

Once again, a journalist spoke on behalf of murdered reporters.

“In Tijuana, where we buried two of our colleagues in less than a week, we will not stop demanding justice. You can’t kill the truth by killing journalists,” she said, before reading the names of those lost in 2022.

The president offered a fable to explain that some bad actors will never change.

“Do you know about the fable … of the toad and the scorpion? It’s great. There was a flood and the scorpion was going to drown and said to the toad, ‘Help me …  save me. I’ll climb on top of you, and you can take me to the other side of the river.'”

The toad obliged. Reaching safety the scorpion stung the toad.

“‘Why did you do this to me, if I’m saving your life?'” the toad implored.

“‘That’s my nature,'” replied the scorpion.

Friday

The president was still on the border on Friday, in Ciudad Juárez, Chihuahua.

Governor Maru Campos said homicides had fallen in Ciudad Juárez, Chihuahua city and Cuauhtémoc and gave a message of unity to the president.

“Between you and me there can be no room for indolence, confrontation, violence, omission or noise that does not allow us to hear each other,” she told him.

Cresencio said crime was generally going down in Chihuahua, save for extortion. He added that the state was third for homicides.

Later in the conference, the president mentioned Ted Cruz, the U.S. senator whose remarks went viral on Twitter after he called the “accelerating breakdown of Mexican institutions” under López Obrador “a threat to U.S. national security.”

The president said it was natural that the Texas senator was “in opposition to the policies we are carrying out to benefit the people of Mexico and in defense of the Mexicans who work and live honorably in the United States.”

“It’s a point of pride that U.S. Senator Ted Cruz is setting himself against my administration … if Ted Cruz praised me, maybe I would think that we are not doing things right,” López Obrador said.

The Tabascan added that U.S. avocado exports could soon be reactivated. They were suspended after a U.S. inspector was threatened.

Mexico News Daily

COVID roundup: Children aged 5 to 11 have right to COVID vaccine, judge rules

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A shot is given to a girl
A shot is given to a girl aboard a bus load of families from Nuevo León in Laredo, Texas, as part of a vaccination campaign last year by the state government.

A federal court has ruled that children aged 5 to 11 have the right to be vaccinated against COVID-19, setting a precedent that other courts are obliged to follow.

In a ruling published Friday, a Mexico City-based administrative court said that children between those ages remain susceptible to infection if they are not vaccinated and therefore their health and even lives could be placed at risk.

The court noted that coronavirus cases among young children are on the rise and “numerous” deaths have been recorded.

It referenced a Pfizer study that found that a reduced dose of its COVID-19 vaccine is safe and effective for children aged 5 to 11.

The court’s ruling came in response to a lawsuit filed by a group of parents seeking an injunction obliging the federal government to offer shots to their children.

A child gets tested for COVID-19.
A child gets tested for COVID-19.

It said that health authorities have an obligation to offer vaccines to the children named in the lawsuit. Unless the ruling is superseded, other courts will have to issue similar injunctions to families who request them.

The government has not offered vaccines to children under 15 with the exception of those aged 12 and older with an existing health condition that makes them vulnerable to serious illness.

Deputy Health Minister Hugo López-Gatell has defended the government’s vaccination policy, saying late last month that the probability of a healthy child getting seriously ill or dying from COVID is “very, very low.”

In other COVID-19 news:

• The Health Ministry reported 21,565 new cases and 470 COVID-19 deaths on Thursday. Mexico’s accumulated tallies are 5.36 million confirmed infections and 314,598 fatalities. There are just over 82,000 estimated active cases, with the highest number per capita in Colima followed by Baja California Sur and Mexico City.

López-Gatell said Tuesday that the fourth wave of the coronavirus pandemic had declined during three consecutive weeks.

• Over 1.2 million vaccine doses were administered in Mexico on Thursday, lifting the total number of shots given to just under 176.2 million.

López-Gatell said Tuesday that 90% of Mexicans aged 18 and over are vaccinated, and tweeted Friday that the campaign to offer booster shots to eligible recipients is making progress across the entire country.

“There will be coverage in the most remote localities,” the coronavirus czar added.

With reports from Milenio

Homicides up in 3 high-crime states targeted with additional security measures

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National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval presented data on violence in nine states where the federal government has provided extra security assistance.
National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio presented data on violence in nine states where the federal government has provided extra security support. Presidencia de la República

Homicides have increased over the past six months in three of nine states where the federal government has recently bolstered security efforts.

National Defense Minister Luis Cresencio Sandoval presented data Thursday that showed that homicides increased 10% in Zacatecas between August 13 and February 16, 9% in Michoacán and 5% in México state.

Zacatecas was the most violent state on a per capita basis last year with almost 100 homicides per 100,000 people, and the eighth most violent for total murders with over 1,600.

Michoacán and México state ranked third and fourth respectively for total murders with more than 2,600 each.

The Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG) has significant power in both Zacatecas and Michoacán, although it recently lost ground in the latter. It is involved in turf wars with the Sinaloa Cartel in Zacatecas and the Cárteles Unidos in Michoacán.

Michoacán's new Morena governor Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla took office last October.
Michoacán’s new Morena governor, Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla, took office last October.

The conflicts are the main drivers of violence in the states, both of which have new Morena party governors.

Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla, who took office in Michoacán on October 1, said earlier this month that pacifying the state might take six years. Homicides were up over 10% during his first 105 days in office compared to the final 105 days of the term of his predecessor.

In Zacatecas, David Monreal was sworn in as governor on September 12, and homicides rose 9.3% in the first 145 days of his term. The northern state has recently seen a spate of macabre incidents, such as the abandonment on Kings Day of a vehicle with 10 dead bodies beneath a giant Christmas tree in front of the state government palace and the discovery of another 10 cadavers on a Zacatecas highway last November.

After 18 murders on one day earlier this month, Monreal said that the implementation of the new security plan had “generated an escalation in violence … between criminal groups.”

More than 20 criminal organizations operate in México state, the country’s most populous entity with approximately 17 million residents. Among them: the CJNG, the Gulf Cartel, La Familia Michoacana, the Guerreros Unidos, Los Rojos and La Unión Tepito.

The state, which includes many municipalities that are part of the greater Mexico City metropolitan area, also has a serious femicide problem. There were 145 gender-related killings of women and girls last year, a figure higher than that of any other state.

Speaking at President López Obrador’s regular news conference, Cresencio said that homicides declined over the past six months in the other six “priority” states.

Murders decreased 18% in Quintana Roo; 17% in Baja California; 15% in Jalisco; 15% in Chihuahua; 5% in Sonora; and 5% in Guanajuato – Mexico’s most violent state for total homicides last year with over 3,500.

With reports from Milenio

The Bolillo Rocks: a unique lookout point hiding in Jalisco’s Sierra Verde

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View of Nevado de Colima
From this lookout point, you can get a good look at Jalisco’s highest mountain, the Nevado de Colima.

Of the many mountain ranges running through the state of Jalisco, I deem La Sierra Verde the least appreciated. Good luck on finding even one man in the street in Guadalajara who could tell you where the range is located or who has ever heard of Las Piedras Bolillo, a spectacular lookout point hidden among its verdant hills.

The problem is roads: the Sierra Verde occupies an area of around 2,000 square kilometers, but if there’s even one decent road tucked away in there, I have yet to see it.

What I have seen are the roughest, rockiest, bumpiest, most washed-out excuses for a road you could ever imagine, so if you don’t have access to a serious four-wheel-drive vehicle, you can stop reading right now — unless, of course, you are an armchair explorer in search of virtual adventure.

However, if you happen to own a 4×4 or a mountain bike and want to explore territory hardly anyone else can get to, read on.

I was introduced to the Sierra Verde by geologist Chris Lloyd, who began exploring the area for its mining potential and ended up falling in love with the place for its beauty and silence.

Piedras Bolillo, Jalisco
You’ll reach the Piedras Bolillo lookout point after driving 9.4 kilometers over rough roads. A 4×4 vehicle is essential.

The Sierra Verde gets its name from its ubiquitous pine and oak trees, and loggers were the ones who created the web of horrendously bad dirt roads that crisscross the forest.

What’s it like navigating these brechas in a Jeep?

Well, on my first visit to the Sierra Verde, I was traveling with four other off-road vehicles. After driving for an hour, we came to a spot in the road that was so steep and so encumbered with boulders that none of those hardy 4x4s could get up it.

“Well, that’s the end of our expedition,” I thought, but my compañeros had a lot more experience at this sort of thing than I did.

Instantly, they all jumped out of their trucks, each one armed with a shovel and a heavy steel wrecking bar that was over a meter long, which they immediately applied to the boulders ¡con ganas! (with enthusiasm).

Before my eyes, they rolled the boulders away and utterly transformed that impassable brecha into a smooth, drivable road.

hikers on Piedras Bolillo, Jalisco
Hikers atop one of the Piedras Bolillo.

On other occasions, we have had to uproot stumps, roll heavy logs off the road and chop our way through maleza (underbrush) using machetes.

If, however, you have the right tools, the right vehicle, and a lot of gumption, you can take advantage of these ubiquitous roads to visit outstanding places like a lovely mountain peak called La Tetilla de Ameca, which I described in volume three of my book, Outdoors in Western Mexico.

On this occasion, I would like to present another outstanding attraction of the Sierra Verde: it’s a unique mirador (lookout point) I call Las Piedras Bolillo, featuring giant rocks shaped like el bolillo, the popular Mexican bun-shaped version of the French baguette, introduced to Mexico City in the 1860s thanks to Mexico’s briefly enthroned Habsburg emperor, Maximilian I.

The Piedras Bolillo are located 100 kilometers southwest of Guadalajara, off Highway 70 to Mascota, Jalisco. At an altitude of almost 2,000 meters above sea level, they offer a magnificent view of the Sierra Verde that you can enjoy without stepping out of your four-wheel-drive vehicle.

This mirador has obviously attracted some attention in the past — perhaps the ancient past — as can be witnessed by a shelter cave on the site featuring carefully constructed sidewalls.

The cave is nothing more than a protected area under one of those very same bun-shaped rocks, lying at an angle. Dig a bit on the floor and you will find plenty of potsherds. Yes, if you’d like to spend a night at this enchanting belvedere, you don’t even need to bring a tent!

Mammillaria Cactus
This nipple cactus (Mammillaria) is five centimeters in diameter, nestled among colorful lichen-covered rocks.

I, however, did bring my tent, and I am happy to report that the Sierra Verde turned out to be the quietest place in which I have ever camped in this country, bar none … and note that I was sleeping there on a Saturday night when raucous music tends to fill the air around even the most remote ranchito.

That’s right, I could hear no rockets going off, no radio blasting, no barking of dogs, no roar of traffic. Why, even the chorus of crickets ended its concert somewhere around midnight.

It was the most glorious silence I had experienced since sleeping inside a lava tube in Saudi Arabia. But in Hibashi Cave, I could not see the stars, whereas this mirador offers a spectacular wide-angle view of the sky, unimpeded by city lights.

From the Bolillo Rocks, you can dare all those logging roads to hike into every corner of this area, where you may be delighted to stumble upon a little waterfall surrounded by wildflowers and mushrooms, or a small lake shaded by trees covered with lichen, their branches burdened with a light-green bromeliad I’ve never seen before. And as you wander about, you may even come upon a pino triste (sad pine), whose needles point down like the branches of a weeping willow.

This tree, endemic to Mexico but considered rare in most of Mexico’s forests, is the Pinus lumholtzii, named after the Norwegian explorer Carl Lumholtz (1851–1922), who led the expedition on which the tree was discovered. At the moment, it’s on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red List of endangered species in Mexico.

As you wander about in the Sierra Verde, keep an eye out to the southeast where, from most high points, you should have a magnificent view of the Nevado de Colima, 120 kilometers away, the highest mountain in Jalisco. Right next to it is the ever-smoldering Volcán de Fuego, or Fire Volcano.

John Pint camping in Sierra Verde, Jalisco
Camp here and experience silence like practically nowhere else in Mexico.

If you are gung-ho to set foot upon the Piedras Bolillo, start out by asking Google Maps to take you to FJ6C+X6M Mixtlán, Jalisco, a spot on Highway 70 where you will find an easy-to-see dirt road heading east. Follow this eastward and then southward for 6.5 kilometers until you reach a fork at N20.43540 W104.35305. Turn right here onto a road heading southwest. Follow this for 2.9 kilometers, and you should end up at the lookout point (N20.42423 W104.36862).

Driving time, if all goes well, might be about 3 1/2 hours, starting from the center of Guadalajara.

This route is shown on Wikiloc.com as Piedras Bolillo, and I hope that the map will help you find your way — but be warned: once you’ve been seduced by the Sierra Verde, you’ll find that you have to keep going back again and again!

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

 

Shelter cave in Piedras Bolillo, Jalisco
A natural shelter underneath one of the Piedras was turned into a home … but whose home and how long ago?

 

woolly oak leaf gall
A woolly oak leaf gall containing the eggs of a tiny cynipid wasp.

 

Pino Triste trees
The endangered pino triste (sad pine) is a common sight here.

 

Sierra Verde, Jalisco
Even if you have a 4×4 vehicle, be prepared for anything on these roads.

 

Sierra Verde, Jalisco
Sunset in the Sierra Verde at an altitude of about 2,000 meters.

 

Sierra Verde, Jalisco
Hiking through the Sierra Verde along no-longer-used logging roads.

 

Sierra Verde, Jalisco
A small dam located two kilometers from the Piedras Bolillo.

Mexico becomes United States’ principal supplier of beef

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beef
Producers say labor shortages in Canada and the US are partly to blame. deposit photos

Mexican beef producers became the main source for U.S. beef imports for the first time, after Canada held the title for many years.

As of February 11, more than 37,000 tons of Mexican beef had been exported to the U.S. since the start of the year. That is 3.3% more than what Canada exported, and nearly 70% more than what Mexico exported in the same period in 2021.

In total, Mexican producers made up nearly 26.9% of beef imported by the U.S., just a percentage point more than Canadian producers.

Héctor Garza, the president of the Mexican beef producers association, said the change is due in part to the worker shortages that the U.S. and Canada have faced as the omicron variant of the coronavirus has torn through the continent.

“In effect we have now surpassed Canada as the main beef seller in the [U.S.] market and, though we know it’s circumstantial, we hope to remain close once [Canada and the U.S.] have recovered,” Garza said.

With reports from Mural

Parents reunited with son 16 years after he was snatched as baby from Jalisco hospital

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Based on facial analyses of baby photos, the Jalisco Institute of Forensic Sciences created this portrait of the missing boy in September 2021.
Based on facial analyses of baby photos, the Jalisco Institute of Forensic Sciences created this portrait of the missing boy in September 2021.

A teenager stolen from the hospital where he was born 16 years ago was reunited with his parents in Guadalajara on Thursday.

Salvador Macías López was removed from a Mexican Social Security Institute (IMSS) hospital in the Jalisco capital just hours after he was born in 2005 by a woman who passed herself off as a nurse.

He was located a few days ago in El Salto, a municipality in the metropolitan area of Guadalajara, and placed in the custody of the state government.

“I have some very good news,” Jalisco Governor Enrique Alfaro said on Twitter Thursday.

“In 2005 a baby was stolen from the IMSS 45 clinic. In September 2021, the Jalisco Institute of Forensic Sciences did a facial analysis and a portrait of what he might look like today. Search operations were carried out and miraculously we found him,” he wrote.

Rosalía López responds to the news that her son’s identity has been confirmed, in an emotional interview with Quiero Noticias.

“A young man with those characteristics was identified days ago, all the genetic tests were performed on him, his mom and his dad, and a few moments ago Chava [the typical nickname for people called Salvador] and his family officially received the news they waited almost 17 years for. They will be together again,” Alfaro said.

The Jalisco Attorney General’s Office (FE) said in a statement that search operations were initiated based on evidence provided by the parents. The results of the genetic tests indicated that it was 99.99% certain that the boy was in fact the son of Yasir Macías and Rosalía López, the FE said.

No details about Salvador’s life in the more than 16 years since he was snatched have been released.

“While the adolescent was found, the investigation to determine what happened will continue,” the FE said.

Salvador was reunited with his parents at child protection offices in Guadalajara.

“He is indeed my son. Thank you, God,” López sobbed in a television interview before the reunion. “I need to go with him, I need to be with him,” she said.

In a voice message sent to reporters after seeing her son for the first time in 16 years, López said, “We’re all very happy, … it’s something that isn’t explained with words.”

With reports from Reforma, El Universal and Informador

Avocado inspection program restarted; US exports resume after week-long hiatus

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A U.S. avocado inspector was threatened last week, after he refused to certify Puebla avocados as Michoacán-grown, and authorize their export. The threat triggered the temporary suspension of exports to the U.S.
A U.S. avocado inspector was threatened last week after he refused to certify Puebla avocados as Michoacán-grown, and authorize their export. The threat triggered the temporary suspension of exports to the U.S.

Avocado exports to the United States have resumed a week after the U.S. government temporarily suspended imports in light of a threatening phone call received by a Michoacán-based U.S. inspector.

The Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS), part of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), announced Friday that its avocado inspection program in Michoacán had restarted and that avocado exports to the United States had resumed.

“APHIS, working closely with the U.S. Embassy in Mexico’s regional security officer, Mexico’s national plant protection organization, and the Association of Avocado Producers and Packers Exporters of Mexico (APEAM), have enacted additional measures that enhance safety for APHIS’ inspectors working in the field, following a threat made to an employee on February 11,” it said in a statement.

“The safety of USDA employees simply doing their jobs is of paramount importance. USDA is appreciative of the positive, collaborative relationship between the United States and Mexico that made resolution of this issue possible in a timely manner.”

The newspaper Milenio reported Friday that the U.S. government was considering a proposal to have 90 U.S. government avocado inspectors protected by state and federal security forces in 63 Michoacán municipalities where the fruit is grown. It was unclear whether U.S. authorities accepted the offer.

Michoacán Governor Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla and other state officials met with USDA representatives and avocado exporters on Wednesday to work on a deal to resume exports.
Michoacán Governor Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla and other state officials met with USDA representatives and avocado exporters on Wednesday to work on a deal to resume exports. Twitter @ARBedolla

Ambassador Ken Salazar said in a statement that the resumption of the U.S. inspection program was possible thanks to the “rapid response and cooperation” of Michoacán Governor Alfredo Ramírez Bedolla, the federal government and APEAM.

“I thank them for working with my security colleagues at the U.S. Embassy to establish the measures that guarantee the security of our APHIS inspectors in the field,” he said.

Salazar noted that Mexican avocado exports to the U.S. were worth US $2.8 billion last year. Michoacán is the only state with authorization to ship the so-called “green gold” across Mexico’s northern border.

“Mexico and the United States will continue working together to fortify the strong bilateral supply chains that promote economic growth and prosperity in both countries,” the ambassador said.

The threat against the U.S. inspector was made after he detected an attempt to pass off avocados from Puebla as Michoacán-grown. He received a threatening call a few days after he refused to authorize the shipment of those avocados to the United States.

Citibanamex estimated that the import suspension cost avocado producers US $7.7 million per day.

In its statement, APHIS said the United States imported 1.2 million metric tonnes of avocados last year, with 1.1 million metric tonnes coming from Mexico.

With reports from El Universal and Milenio

Tobacco law prohibits advertising, establishes smoke-free areas

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Approximately 15 million Mexicans are smokers.
Approximately 15 million Mexicans are smokers.

A ban on tobacco company advertising and sponsorship takes effect Friday after a revised law was published in the federal government’s official gazette.

The updated General Law for Tobacco Control also establishes workplaces, schools, public access areas, sporting and entertainment facilities and public transit as 100% smoke-free areas, although smoking is already generally banned in those places.

The promulgation of the revised law comes after the Senate approved the modifications in December and submitted them to the president for his approval.

A decree published in the official gazette directed states and municipalities to adapt their laws, edicts and other regulations to ensure compliance with the reform.

A range of organizations have been advocating tighter controls on tobacco for years.

Mauricio Hernández, a director at the Mexican Social Security Institute (IMSS), a major public health care provider, celebrated the promulgation of the updated law, describing it as a “great achievement for public health.”

According to the federal Health Ministry, over one-quarter of deaths due to cancer are related to the use of tobacco.

Approximately 15 million Mexicans smoke, the newspaper El Financiero reported last year, while 19% of all cigarettes smoked here are contraband, the Confederation of Industrial Chambers said in a recent report

With reports from Reforma