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En Breve: Mexican towns and restaurants among world’s best; CDMX among world’s most expensive

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Alejandra Flores and Jorge Vallejo are the team behind Quintonil, recently named Mexico's best restaurant by World's 50 Best Restaurants. (Instagram)

Pueblos Mágicos make best small towns list

Magical Towns Sayulita, Nayarit, and Tepoztlán, Morelos, made it on the coveted 50 Most Beautiful Small Towns in the World list by Condé Nast magazine. 

The magazine praised Tepoztlán for its “beautifully designed sites” such as Dilao, a sculpture garden by artist Eduardo Olbés, and the greenhouse-inspired cocktail bar Margarita Concept. It also highlights the area’s Aztec ruins. 

Tepoztlán, a magical town located near Cuernavaca, made it onto Condé Nast’s 50 Most Beautiful Small Towns in the World list. (Wikimedia Commons)

One day is enough to visit Tepoztlán, but Condé Nast “you may find yourself wanting to linger…” 

Sayulita, a beach town on Mexico’s Pacific coast, “offers an authentic slice of Mexican life with a colorful town square, indie boutiques, seafood-hawking food stalls, and quiet beaches,” Condé Nast says. 

New Hyatt luxury hotels announced for Cancún 

Two new Cancún luxury hotels will open in early 2024. 

Hyatt Hotels Corporation has announced the upcoming Hyatt Vivid Grand Island, an adults-only resort, and Dreams Grand Island, a family-friendly 616-room luxury resort, to be built in partnership with Mexican developer Grupo Murano.

Hyatt and Mexico’s Grupo Murano are jointly opening adjacent hotels in Cancún in 2024. (Hyatt)

Together, the resorts will offer 19 cuisines in their restaurants and access to a 26,000-square-foot spa, a fitness center, multiple pools and a beach club.

Mexico City is world’s 21st most expensive city to live in 

Investment firm Julius Bar’s 2023 Global Wealth and Lifestyle Report reveals that Mexico City is the second most expensive city in Latin America and the 21st most expensive in the world

Mexico City has become a popular destinations for digital nomads, and living costs are beginning to reflect that. (Depositphotos)

Mexico City’s results are in part driven by the peso’s strength against the dollar and hotel price increases, which have spiked, reflecting its “importance as a leisure and business travel destination,” the report says. 

Still, more than half the goods and services in Mexico City are cheaper than the global average, notably health insurance, prime real estate and private education, it says.

“These three key lifestyle elements […] make Mexico City an appealing place for the wealthy,” the report adds.  

Mexico City has three restaurants on World’s 50 Best list

Quintonil, Pujol, and Rosetta again made it on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, with Quintonil making the top 10.

Mexico City’s Quintonil. (Wikimedia Commons)

Dropping eight positions this year, Pujol is at No. 13, with Rosetta at No. 49. Retaining its No. 9 ranking from last year, Quintonil thus was crowned Mexico’s best restaurant for the first time.  

“Focused on fresh, local ingredients and traditional Mexican flavors and techniques weaved into modern preparations, Quintonil is fast becoming a classic,” 50 Best said. 

After working cruise ships and at Mexico City restaurants The St. Regis, Noma and Pujol, owner Jorge Vallejo opened Quintonil with his wife Alejandra Flores in 2012.  

“The charismatic duo brings a winning combination of warmth, energy and exceptional food that has diners returning again and again,” 50 Best wrote.

Pujol’s cultish culinary experience, it says, adds “a modern twist to traditional recipes” and “serves them in the most elegant way possible.”

Rosetta, whose owner Elena Reygadas won the World’s Best Female Chef award in April, was recognized for a “ubiquitous interpretation of Mexican cuisine.”

With reports from Condé Nast Traveler, Hyatt, Julius Baer, Forbes Mexico Online, El Financiero and The World’s 50 Best

Supreme Court strikes down sweeping electoral reform law

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Mexican Supreme Court
The Supreme Court ruled Thursday in a 9-2 vote to strike down electoral reform passed in February. Justice Javier Laynez argued the legislation was rushed through the lower house of Congress contrary to the "principle of democratic deliberation." (SCJN)

Six weeks after invalidating the first part of the federal government’s controversial electoral reform package, the Supreme Court (SCJN) has struck down the second more substantive section.

As was the case with the first part of the so-called Plan B electoral reform package, nine of 11 justices concluded that the approval of the second section by federal Congress violated legislative procedure. The ruling Morena party and its allies have a majority in both the Chamber of Deputies and the Senate, ensuring the legislation’s passage through Congress.

President of the National Electoral Institute Guadalupe Taddei
National Electoral Institute President Guadalupe Taddei Zavala, elected in March, inherited an INE diminished in power and budget due to the reform. The Court ruling invalidates those changes. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)

The SCJN ruled that reforms to three laws and a proposal to create another one were rushed through the lower house of Congress without giving lawmakers adequate time or opportunity to understand and debate the legislation.

“The Chamber of Deputies never gave reasons to justify the urgent process,” Justice Javier Laynez said during a court session on Thursday.

“… Lawmakers didn’t have the opportunity to become familiar with the proposals because they weren’t published or distributed with the advance notice required by the rules of the Chamber of Deputies. Most importantly, they didn’t have a reasonable period to become familiar with what they were voting on as, in total, there were reforms to more than 510 articles,” said Laynez, who proposed the abrogation of the laws to his colleagues.

“It’s clear and evident that the principle of democratic deliberation was violated,” he said in reference to deputies’ approval of the laws in just four hours.

anti-Plan B electoral reform protest in Zocalo in Mexico City
Soon after the Plan B reform passed Congress in February, cities all over Mexico saw citizen protests. (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

The justice also cited other legislative irregularities related to the second part of the reform package, including an order from President López Obrador to remove a so-called “eternal life” clause in one of the proposed laws, which would have allowed major parties to transfer votes to their smaller coalition partners to avoid their possible de-registration due to a lack of support at elections.

Justice Yasmín Esquivel and Justice Loretta Ortiz, both of whom were nominated by López Obrador, voted against repealing the second section of the reform package.

Esquivel noted that the laws received sufficient support to pass Congress and consequently argued that a “democratic exercise” had taken place. She accused her fellow justices of violating “the principle of the separation of powers,” and charged that the court’s consideration of the case was “superficial.”

The application of the laws struck down by the SCJN on Thursday was suspended by the court in March just weeks after they were promulgated by López Obrador. Laynez said at the time that the suspension was necessary to protect democracy and voters’ rights.

The ruling is seen as a win by many Mexicans opposed to what it saw as the law’s attack on democracy and the INE. This meme circulating online Thursday marked with X’s Justices Yasmín Esquivel and Loretta Ortiz, the sole opposing voices. (Twitter)

 

Approved by the Senate in late February, the second part of the reform package slashed the budget of the National Electoral Institute (INE), limited the powers of the Federal Electoral Tribunal and made changes to key dates related to electoral processes in Mexico, among other effects.

To demonstrate their support for the INE in the face of what they considered an unwarranted attack on and dangerous weakening of the institute, hundreds of thousands of people took to the streets across Mexico shortly after the second section of the package was approved. The now-annulled electoral reform laws are collectively known as Plan B as a more ambitious constitutional bill aimed at overhauling Mexico’s electoral system failed to attract the two-thirds congressional support it required.

With the Supreme Court having now invalidated the entirety of the reform package, the INE will recover powers it lost or which were diminished during the brief period that the legislation was in effect. The institute’s previous capacity to sanction politicians who violate electoral laws will be restored, its autonomy won’t be curtailed, its funding won’t be cut and it will be able to employee more people and keep regional offices open.

The first part of the reform package involved changes to the General Law on Social Communication and the General Law on Administrative Responsibilities. A key aim was to limit the responsibilities of the INE and its capacity to regulate and sanction political communication.

Mexico President Lopez Obrador
President Lopez Obrador, considered the Plan B reform’s architect, has been a fierce critic of the INE since taking office and had never met with its councilors until this month. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

The second part of the package entailed modifications to the General Law on Institutions and Electoral Procedures; the General Law on Political Parties; and the Organic Federal Judicial Power Law. It also created a General Law on Means to Challenge Electoral Matters.

The second part was considered the most damaging to the INE and its capacity to oversee elections, although López Obrador rejected claims that the package he put forward was a threat to democracy in Mexico.

The president has been a fierce critic of the INE and its predecessor, the Federal Electoral Institute. At least part of his dissatisfaction with the country’s electoral authorities stems from his losses at the 2006 and 2012 presidential elections. López Obrador maintains that he was a victim of electoral fraud in both contests.

He has already indicated that he will attempt to enshrine his desired electoral reforms in the constitution if the ruling Morena party and its allies win a supermajority in both houses of Congress at elections on June 2, 2024. The sitting period of the new Congress will begin in September 2024, the president’s last month in office.

Mexico's National Electoral Institute presidents, Guadalupe Taddei and Lorenzo Cordova
Ex-INE president Lorenzo Córdova, seen here handing the reins to Taddei in April, had warned repeatedly in the last two years that the government sought to hobble the autonomous elections oversight body. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

López Obrador, who is also a staunch critic of the Supreme Court and the broader judiciary,  described former INE president Lórenzo Córdova as an “anti-democratic character, but now that Guadalupe Taddei Zavala — who has links to Morena — has taken his place, his view of the institute has significantly softened.

After meeting with all 11 electoral councilors including Taddei at the National Palace last week, López Obrador declared that a “new stage” had begun in the federal government’s relationship with the elections oversight body.

The SCJN’s latest electoral reform decision, and other rulings that have angered López Obrador, would appear to make a similar rapprochement between Mexico’s top court and the nation’s preeminent political figure nigh on impossible.

With reports from Milenio, Reforma and El País

Stay at this jewel of a hotel in the heart of San Miguel de Allende

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Hacienda El Santuario
This boutique hotel in the heart of colonial San Miguel de Allende won a Condé Nast Traveler Reader's Choice award as one of the top 10 hotels in Mexico. (Courtesy)

If you’re searching for an oasis that embodies an unparalleled authentic Mexican experience, the award-winning boutique hotel Hacienda El Santuario in San Miguel de Allende should be top of your list.

You’ll find yourself stepping into a Mexican treasure. The three 16th-century buildings, one of them a convent, exude timeless charm, elegance and taste, with fine art and design from the owners’ museum-quality collection on display. 

Hacienda Santuario
The welcoming facade of Hacienda El Santuario. (Courtesy)

This is a family-run hotel dating back four generations, and is known for its warm and delightful staff.

Located in the heart of the centro histórico in this UNESCO World Heritage city, the hotel’s entryway is a picturesque, lush courtyard terrace with a fountain. Here, a flower-covered bar, La Samaritana, serves house-made aguas frescas (fresh fruit waters), made from a range of local fruits and nuts. This is the perfect place to relax after a stroll in the nearby park. Or one can slip next door into their enchanting boutique, where you’ll find an impressive selection of Mexican art, design and clothing.

This tranquil property offers 29 individually designed and fully-equipped rooms, ranging from the petite suite to grand master suite.

The rooms are connected by ancient stone staircases, beautiful covered terraces and common gardens and lounging areas with fine rugs and antiques.

Hacienda El Santuario
The bar at Hacienda El Santuario. (Courtesy)

In the dining courtyard, a hundred year-old bougainvillea tree provides a splash of color and shade over this former convent cloister. 

It’s a treat to be able to peek into the brightly tiled open kitchen from the dining patio, and watch Filomena – who has worked with the hotel group for thirty years – and her team, cooking traditional Mexican dishes.

You can taste the experience and love in the home-cooked sopa azteca, molcajete, flautas and the outstanding arroz con leche, which paired with an organic Oaxaca coffee, is the perfect Mexican dessert! 

Isabel Castro, one of the owners, is very proud of El Santuario being voted one of the top ten best hotels in Mexico in Condé Nast Traveler’s Reader’s Choice awards. Their sister hotel in town, Real de Minas, is the longest running and one of the most successful hotels in the state.

Hacienda El Santuario
The kitchen of El Santuario. (Courtesy)

“We want our guests to feel as if they’ve come to stay in a very special Mexican family home, where they can soak up the historical ambience, the architectural features, my mother’s art collection, primarily from Michoacán and Oaxaca, the unique personality of all the rooms and traditional Mexican cuisine and drinks.”

“The original touches are important to us; the shrine to artworks showing La Virgin de Guadalupe, the library which houses antique Mexican books, the mural in the bar. We host a talented guitarist who plays for an hour each evening and for Sunday brunch. 

“El Santuario is really a celebration of the rich beauty of our country, and we want to share that with the diverse international crowds who visit our city.” 

The hotel’s standout room might be the intimate, art deco style bar, La Sanmiguelada, which offers house cocktails, local mezcal and pulque. The entirety of the walls are painted by the celebrated Mazatlán muralist, José Luis Arias. 

Hacienda El Santuario
Salón Corazón Amarillo at El Santuario is an event space for up to 50 people. (Courtesy)

“The pandemic was the perfect time to invite him to paint his story of Mexico,” Isabel continues. “Here you can see representations of local festivals, like the Fiesta de Los Locos, and famous figures such as Hidalgo and El Pípila, or Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.”

There are also a few private event areas like El Salón Corazón Amarillo, which can seat 50 people. This room’s signature yellow wall serves as the backdrop for a breathtaking display of catrinas, brightly colored Mexican folk art skeletons. The charming roof terrace has the same capacity, perfect for an evening dinner party, and boasts by far one of the most spectacular views of the city.

Hacienda El Santuario
The rooftop views at El Santuario are some of the city’s best. (Courtesy)

“We’re remodeling our spa up here on the rooftop,” Sofia, one of the managers, tells me. 

“You can also enjoy our “little garden” in the corner, where we’re growing rosemary, tomatoes, cilantro and manzanilla (chamomile). The family owners, Grupo México Real,  love nature. They have another hotel, Agua Bendita, a nature sanctuary, and a regenerative farm outside the city. They like to bring that vision in small ways to this urban oasis also. That’s why there are many water features, plants and flowers to enjoy throughout El Santuario.”

“Our third level terrace is a perfect spot to read, relax, enjoy conversation or even host a reading, surrounded by the beauty of a Mexican garden. We host weddings and parties, where guests can relish the variety of different spaces, and stay in their chosen corner of the hotel.”

It’s this attention to detail and the colorful, markedly Mexican style of the design, gardens and cuisine, that really delights at El Santuario, and makes it stand out  from the other hundreds of boutique hotels in the city.  Upon arrival, you’re even invited to choose an organic homemade soap and a china dish for your bathroom from an antique treasure chest! 

Hacienda El Santuario
One of El Santuario’s spacious suites. (Courtesy)

Perhaps its former history as a convent lends this hotel such an air of serenity and beauty, but it’s the masterful eye and sensibility of a seasoned local hotelier family that has created a truly rich and original hospitality experience. 

For more information:
Hacienda El Santuario, Aldama 41, Col Centro, San Miguel de Allende, GTO 37700
Tel: + 52 415 980 0192

 

Henrietta Weekes is a writer, editor, actor and narrator. She divides her time between San Miguel de Allende, New York and Oxford, UK. 

Isthmus corridor project secures US $4.5B in potential investment

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dignitaries applauding presentation on planned Isthmus of Tehuantepec project in Mexico
The corridor, a chain of 10 industrial parks to be built between the states of Oaxaca and Veracruz, has attracted investment from manufacturers of semiconductors, electronics and auto parts. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

The new industrial corridor planned for the Isthmus of Tehuantepec has already secured 52 letters of intent to invest from Mexican and foreign companies, representing US $4.5 billion.

The Interoceanic Corridor of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (CIIT) is a proposed chain of 10 new industrial parks between the states of Oaxaca and Veracruz, designed to attract investment in Mexico’s poorer and less-developed southern region.

The Isthmus of Tehuantepec trade corridor.
The Isthmus of Tehuantepec trade corridor will consist of 10 industrial parks connected by a rehabilitated railway.

The Isthmus of Tehuantepec connects the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. President Lopez Obrador has said it could eventually rival the Panama Canal.

Carlos Sedano Rodríguez, head of the CIIT’s Investment Promotion and Commercial Development Unit, said that the projects secured so far ranged in value from US $10 million to US $500 million each. Ten are from developers, and the other 42 are from companies that want to establish manufacturing plants in the industrial parks.

On Tuesday, the Economy Ministry announced a new round of public bidding for two-year concessions in five of the so-called “development poles” along the corridor, with registration of interested parties open from June 26 to 30.

The Finance Ministry previously announced a range of tax incentives to attract companies to the corridor, including a complete exemption from income tax during the first three years of operation and a 50% to 90% reduction during the subsequent three years. Business operations within the corridor will also be exempt from value-added tax (VAT).

Governor of Veracruz, Mexico, Cuitláhuac García Jiménez
Governor of Veracruz Cuitláhuac García Jiménez spoke this week with business delegates from Taiwan interested in nearshoring their manufacturing operations to Mexico. (Twitter)

The CIIT specifically aims to attract companies dedicated to electronics, semiconductors, car parts, pharmaceuticals, medical devices, electric power generation and distribution, information technology, metals and petrochemicals. However, Sedano stressed that other projects would also be considered.

Interested companies include semiconductor manufacturers from Taiwan. A delegation of 20 Taiwanese companies came to Mexico on Sunday to explore investment opportunities. They agreed to create a working group between Mexico and Taiwan to identify segments of the supply chain that could be moved to Mexico, taking advantage of the nearshoring phenomenon that has seen production processes move closer to U.S. markets.

Although northern Mexico has been the primary beneficiary of nearshoring, thanks to its location and established industries, an advantage of investing in the CIIT is the region’s plentiful water supply. Northern Mexico suffers recurrent, severe droughts.

“We [in the CIIT] have excess water, especially on the side of Veracruz, and Oaxaca is not bad [either],” Sedano said. “We can count on [having] water.”

The government has also sought to boost the attractiveness of the CIIT with plans to modernize the railroad and highways between Salina Cruz, Oaxaca, and Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz, and to expand the ports in both cities.

The Navy has contributed to the corridor project and will control it once it is finished. President López Obrador has pledged that, although the trade corridor seeks to attract foreign investment, it is a “matter of sovereignty” that it should be administered by federal bodies.

With reports from Forbes and El Financiero

Volaris closes deal with Airbus for 25 new planes

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Volaris plane in Mexico City
The new flight will operate twice a week beginning on July 3. (Octavio Hoyos/Shutterstock)

Mexican low-cost airline Volaris has closed a deal with Airbus to purchase 25 planes, while its fellow low-cost carrier Viva Aerobus could reach an agreement with the French plane manufacturer later this month. 

On Tuesday, Volaris announced it is ordering 25 A320NEO (New Engine Option) narrow-body planes as it pushes to expand its operations on domestic flights and with destinations in the United States and Central America. The purchase comes as part of an agreement reached  this past October, according to news outlet Aristegui Noticias, and leaves 143 planes yet to be delivered

Airbus plane
Volaris plans to have an all-Airbus NEO fleet by 2028. (Wikimedia Commons)

“These aircraft will support the company’s long-term business viability, as well as our sustainability strategy,” CEO of Volaris Enrique Beltranena said during the 2023 Air Show in Paris. 

The new planes will help the airline boost its goal of operating an all-Airbus NEO fleet by 2028. With more than 170 planes of this style, Volaris currently has the most A320NEO aircraft in Latin America. 

Since its launch in 2005, the Mexican carrier, considered by specialized media to be the largest in the country, has only operated Airbus aircraft. 

Meanwhile, Viva Aerobus is reportedly negotiating a deal with Airbus for at least 90 narrow-body jets of the same family. Sources told Reuters on Wednesday that the transaction will fall outside the Paris Air Show, the world’s biggest air exhibition.

Viva Aerobus plane
Viva Aerobus is another Mexican low-cost carrier in the market for more planes. (Viva Aerobus/Twitter)

According to sources, negotiations between both companies have taken place alongside the ongoing airshow and report it is likely both companies will close a deal for approximately 90 aircraft and announce it this week.

Reuters reported that Airbus declined to comment and that Viva Aerobus was not immediately available. The airline previously told Reuters it had an ongoing order of A321NEO with Airbus with deliveries until 2027. The carrier said it has not signed a new deal with any manufacturer. 

Viva Aerobus has long been a battleground in the fight for market dominance between Airbus and Boeing. In 2013, the airline switched from Boeing to Airbus with an order for 40 Airbus A320 jets worth up to US $4 billion after a fierce competition between the two aviation giants.

Prior to the start of the Paris Air Show, sources told Reuters that Airbus is favored to win again.

Both Volaris and Viva Aerobus registered historic numbers of passengers in 2022, together transporting more than 50 million travelers. Both have also expanded their network this year and have added new domestic flights.

With reports from Aristegui Noticias, Reuters, Reuters and The Logistics World

2 new CDMX hotel options offer central locations and a wow factor

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San Fernando doorway
San Fernando Hotel in Condesa has been recently renovated by Texas-based hotel group Bunkhouse and is now a major contender for best hotel in the neighborhood. (Chad Wadsworth)

Mexico City has come roaring back from any pause the pandemic may have caused in local tourism. Dozens of new hotels are opening in the next 12 to 18 months in the capital, and while it can be a blur scrolling through everything on offer, two hotels opened this month that I’m especially excited about. 

Both are great for travelers who want both a unique hospitality experience as well as access to the city’s central neighborhoods and their attractions. 

Volga Lounge
Both hotels bask in high-end design. Hotel Volga, with its industrial architectural elements, has a hypermodern vibe. (Lydia Carey)

While not technically brand new, San Fernando Hotel in Condesa has been recently renovated by Texas-based hotel group Bunkhouse and is now a major contender for best hotel in the neighborhood. 

Inside a 1947 Art Deco beauty, designers from Bunkhouse carefully curated a look that incorporates some of the building’s finest elements — beautiful stained glass, casement windows, an undulating geometric staircase — with more modern amenities like high-speed Wi-Fi, updated bathrooms and a sexy new bar and lounge on the first floor. 

Small touches like the handmade pendant lights from local artisan Julie Bramely-Sanchez and a chandelier by award-winning Mexico City designer Rebeca Cors are the result of the design team’s commitment to a uniquely Mexican style that’s firmly rooted in the city.

The new bar and lounge, with its jewel-toned furniture and colorful Pop Art really takes advantage of the hotel’s incredible location — a few feet away from Parque México, the neighborhood’s most prestigious park, and on a street that sees heavy foot traffic in the heart of Art Deco Condesa. San Fernando’s outdoor tables and its open entryway beckon you in off the street for a drink, creating a space for locals and visitors to rub shoulders among the low-lit couches. 

San Fernando Bar
San Fernando’s cocktail menu only takes a few risks — options like pox liquor from Chiapas and craft mezcals among them — but it offers a solid range of classic and house cocktails. (Chad Wadsworth)

The cocktail menu isn’t exceptionally risky, but Bunkhouse have anchored it with elements representing the mexicanidad of its location — e.g. Indigenous pox liquor from Chiapas and a roster of several different mezcals — and they have a solid list of classic and house cocktails. 

The food menu consists of small plates that are more international in tone, such as watermelon salad with mint feta and pistachios, charcuterie boards and a gourmet grilled cheese sandwich. Three new rooftop suites are available, and rooms come in a variety of sizes and arrangements, including a six-person suite for large groups. 

The best rooms are the king-sized singles outfitted like tiny retro apartments — be sure to ask for one with a private balcony. 

Moving from the historic to the hypermodern, Volga has opened just off of Reforma Avenue in the Cuauhtémoc neighborhood. Brought to Mexico City by the same folks who opened Casa Polanco last year, Volga’s industrial chic design can be credited to JSa, one of the city’s most renowned young architectural firms. It has designed other gems like the Carlota and Umbral hotels. 

Volga Hotel CDMX
Volga is designed by JSa, who are behind some of the most exciting architectural projects in the city. (Lydia Carey)

Volga seeks to be both a base for your Mexico City journey and a journey of the senses in and of itself, with curated playlists, local artwork, an omakase chef’s table, DJs in the lobby and rooftop yoga. 

Like other hotels in the Hamak Hotels portfolio, Volga attracts an international crowd of fashionistas, design lovers and creatives looking to rub shoulders in the basement speakeasy or take in the skyline from the rooftop pool. Rooms are arranged around a U-shaped air shaft that dominates the center of the building. The tiny triangle-shaped balconies hidden behind wood-slatted windows give guests the option of joining the fun or tucking away into their own private space. 

Simple and sleek, the black-and-white interiors give the rooms a timeless look, and regardless of their limited square footage, the tall ceilings, exposed beams and open design make them feel expansive.

There’s a lot going on here — events, classes, “happenings,” even a concept store, but it also has a great location for seeing some of the city’s best attractions — the historic downtown, Reforma Avenue on Sunday morning (when the street is closed for several hours to encourage outdoor recreation) and the Chapultepec park museums.

The San Fernando has rooms starting at US $200 a night and going upwards of $450, while all rooms at Volga are set at US $360 a night, with rates subject to change in the near future. 

Architecture and ambiance are an integral part of each hotel’s draw, but their excellent locations also provide access to some of the city’s best sites and eateries, making either a great and convenient getaway. 

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.

Court: anyone ‘with capacity to gestate’ can dispute abortion laws

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Women marching in Sept. 2022 for abortion rights in Chiapas
Women marching in favor of decriminalizing abortion in September in Chiapas, one of 21 states in Mexico with laws making abortion a crime. The Supreme Court ruling paves the way for more citizens to challenge such state laws, even when not currently trying to obtain an abortion. (Isabel Mateos Hinjosa/Cuartoscuro)

The Supreme Court (SCJN) has ruled that all women — as well as other people “with the capacity to gestate” — can challenge state laws against abortion, whether they are pregnant or not.

In a statement issued Wednesday, the SCJN noted that the decision came after two lower courts handed down contradictory rulings on whether the condition of being a woman or “person with the capacity to gestate” was sufficient to “recognize their legitimate interest” to challenge laws that establish abortion as a crime, even if the complainant isn’t pregnant.

Justice Jorge Mario Pardo Rebolledo of Mexico's Supreme Court
Justice Jorge Mario Pardo Rebolledo presided over the Supreme Court session in the first chamber on Wednesday. (SCJN)

First trimester abortion is legal in 11 of Mexico’s 32 federal entities but remains an offense in the other 21 even though the SJCN ruled in 2021 that the criminalization of abortion is unconstitutional.

The SCJN said that its first chamber determined that laws that penalize abortion affect the cultural and social rights of people with the capacity to gestate, contributing to the creation of an adverse environment in which to exercise their human rights.

Such laws promote the belief that having an abortion is not the right thing to do from an ethical standpoint and “increase stigma for those who turn to these medical services,” the court said.

The SCJN said that its first chamber determined that while laws that punish abortion “directly affect pregnant people,” they also have an impact on “those who have the capacity to gestate” but are not currently expecting a child as they send “a discriminatory message” to them.

Activists celebrate decriminalization of abortion in Quintana Roo in 2022
Activists celebrate in Quintana Roo in October after the state Congress passed legislation decriminalizing it in the first 12 weeks of pregnancy. Many states passed such legislation after a 2021 Supreme Court ruling that such laws are unconstitutional. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

Laws punishing abortion have an impact on “their right to choose their life plan” and on “their sexual and reproductive rights,” it added.

“… The chamber concluded that the sole condition of being a woman or person with the capacity to gestate is sufficient to recognize” their right to file a legal challenge against the classification of abortion as a crime “without the need” to be immediately subject to relevant laws, the SCJN said.

Challenging state based laws against abortion on the basis that they are unconstitutional could result in a complainant being granted an injunction that authorizes the termination of a pregnancy and thus exempts them from punishment.

The issuance of injunctions in states where abortion has not been decriminalized could pave the way for the legalization of the termination of pregnancies in the first 12 weeks.

Puebla, Sonora, Chiapas and Nuevo León are among the states where abortion hasn’t been legalized, except in cases of rape or a risk to the mother’s life.

With reports from Aristegui Noticias

Inflation slows to 5.18% in first half of June

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Limes in a Mexican supermarket
Inflation is on a downward trend but it's still far from the 3% rate the Bank of Mexico would like to see. (ProtoplasmaKid/Wikimedia Commons)

Inflation in Mexico slowed to its lowest level in over two years in the first half of June, but still remains well above the central bank’s target.

The annual headline inflation rate was 5.18% during the first 15 days of the month, the national statistics agency INEGI reported Thursday.

INEGI graph showing inflation trajectory in Mexico
This graph shows the annual trajectory of inflation from the first 15-day period of June to the next each year since 2014. The dark green line represents headline inflation, while the light green shows core inflation. (INEGI)

The rate, down from 5.84% in May, is the lowest since March 2021, and slightly below the 5.3% consensus forecast of analysts surveyed by the news agency Reuters.

The Bank of México (Banxico) targets inflation of 3% with tolerance for variation of one percentage point in either direction.

Mexico’s core inflation rate, which excludes volatile food and energy prices, was 6.91% in the first half of June, a decline of 0.48 percentage points from the end of May. That figure was below a 7.02% forecast of analysts polled by Reuters.

The publication of the latest inflation data on Thursday morning comes just hours before members of the Banxico board convene to discuss monetary policy.

Person smoking in Mexico City
Processed food, beverages and tobacco were 10.67% more expensive in May than a year earlier, according to INEGI. (Victoria Valtierra Ruvalcaba/Cuartoscuro)

With inflation slowing but still higher than desired, the central bank is widely expected to keep its benchmark interest rate at the record high level of 11.25%.

After the bank’s board voted unanimously in May to keep the rate at 11.25%, Banxico said it “considers that it will be necessary to maintain the reference rate at its current level for an extended period.”

In the same statement, the central bank predicted that headline inflation will fall to 4.7% by the end of 2023 and continue declining next year to reach 3.1% in Q4 of 2024.

INEGI’s data shows that processed food, beverages and tobacco were 10.67% more expensive in May than a year earlier, while meat prices rose 2.81% and the cost of fruit and vegetables was up 3.67%. Inflation for those products was lower than that reported at the end of May.

The cost of non-food goods rose 5.65% annually, while services were 5.23% more expensive. Those figures also declined compared to May.

Energy costs, including those for gasoline and electricity, fell 2.6% annually in the first half of June.

Bank of Mexico governors
The Bank of Mexico’s governors board meet Thursday to discuss monetary policy. They are expected to keep Mexico’s benchmark rate at 11.25%. (Presidencia and Galo Cañas Rodríguez of Cuartoscuro)

At his Thursday morning press conference, President López Obrador — whose government  entered into an anti-inflation pact with the private sector – said that the decline in inflation reported by INEGI was cause for celebration.

“Some people might say: ‘How does that help me?’ Well, a lot, because your income goes further,” he said.

“… If inflation is up, you buy less, your income isn’t enough. So this is an achievement and … the peso remains very strong. The economy is doing very well, there are jobs and the people are happy in the countryside and in the cities,” López Obrador said.

With reports from El Financiero, El Economista and Forbes México

Huevos motuleños: art meets flavor in the Yucatán’s best breakfast

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Adding plantain or (for the brave) a hot pepper can elevate this already loft dish even further. (nutmegnanny.com)

You hear the crunch of the base tortilla as soon as you cut in. Slathered in a thin layer of refried black beans, then fried once more, it’s the bedrock of one of the Yucatan’s most iconic dishes: huevos motuleños. 

The dish became a southern Mexico breakfast staple way before any of our times, and it’s only grown in popularity over the years. 

Motul municipal hall
Motul, Yucatán, the home of huevos motuleños. (Alejandro Linares Garcia/Wikimedia)

Named after the Yucatán city of Motul, it’s a work of art: a baroque brunch on a crispy tortilla canvas that’s a melange of reds, yellows, and oranges, dotted pink — and green for good measure — because art is play, and who doesn’t like to play with their food? 

When the side of your fork slices in and runny egg yolk oozes out, it’s like the breaking of a dam, transforming the base of your plate into a reservoir of burnt orange. It’s a feast for the eyes — and don’t get me started on the flavor.

One hundred years ago, when Yucatán governor Felipe Carrillo Puerto walked into La Sin Rival eatery with artist Diego Rivera, Mexico’s education minister José Vasconcelos and writer Jaime Torres Bodet — among others — he couldn’t have known the role he’d play in changing the face of Mexican gastronomy. 

As the story goes, while entertaining his guests during a trip to the Yucatán, they made a stop to eat at the famed Motul culinary institution. Carrillo asked the chef to bring out his favorites: eggs, refried beans, ham and peas. 

Jorge Siqueff Febles (far right) is credited with creating the authentic huevos motuleños for Yucatan’s governor, Felipe Carillo Puerto. (midcitybeat)

Short on plates, the chef, Jorge Siqueff Febles, opted to pile all the ingredients onto one platter, layering them between fried tortillas and covering them in salsa. The guests loved it, and when Vasconcelos asked Carrillo — a native to Motul — what he called the dish, he told Vasconcelos: “These are the authentic huevos motuleños.”

Since then, the dish has evolved, undergoing countless iterations in the face of changing circumstances. In Carrillo’s days, Motul was a sizable mercantile hub, its proximity to the Caribbean coast facilitating trade between locals and European merchants. As a result, early versions of the recipe called for Spanish jamón serrano as opposed to the cubed ham used today; the state had no meatpacking industry at the time. 

Siqueff also tinkered with the preparation of onions that went into the sauce, frying them first in olive oil brought in by foreign merchants. Occasionally, fried sweet plantains were added, which became so popular that patrons demanded it each time they ordered it — that and the lone habanero pepper that sits atop the dish.

What makes this dish so special is its balance, despite it being a plate full of contrasts. The fried tortilla — dry and crisp — sits beneath soft, creamy eggs and a runny tomato salsa, whose acid shares the spotlight with the salt of the tortilla-bean combination, the sweetness of the plantains and the savory sensation of each mouthful of eggs. 

huevos motuleños dish
The crunchy, colorful, rich huevos motuleños have become of Mexico’s most iconic – and best – breakfast dishes. (great-taste.net)

Those brave enough to nibble on the habanero before digging in will tell you that the eggs and refried beans are the perfect neutralizers for heat, allowing you to tiptoe to the edge of setting your mouth on fire before taking refuge in one satisfying bite after another. And if you go to the right place — a certain second-floor spot in Motul’s 20 de Noviembre market — that burnt-orange reservoir you’re left with gets sopped up with a basket of freshly baked bread.

The fact that one plate can play host to so many unique components — seemingly the end-product of a basket of mystery ingredients beyond the imagination of cooking shows like “Chopped” or “Masterchef” — is a marvel. But maybe we shouldn’t be so surprised. 

Often, it’s the things we least expect to work well that end up pairing perfectly. And in that way, on this plate, art mimics life.

Ethan Jacobs is a freelance writer and writing coach based in Mérida. He has written extensively in narrative and short fiction formats, and his work has received recognition both domestically and internationally in microfiction, short fiction, and narrative essay formats.

Leatherback sea turtle nests in Tulum for first time in 36 years

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leatherback turtles at Xcacel-Xcacelito turtle sanctuary in Tulum, Mexico
The sea turtle was spotted at the Xcacel-Xcacelito turtle sanctuary during the nesting season, an encouraging sign for the currently endangered species. (Wikimedia Commons)

A leatherback sea turtle, the largest turtle species in the world, was spotted in the Xcacel-Xcacelito turtle sanctuary in Tulum for the first time in 36 years, the Institute of Biodiversity and Protected Natural Areas of the state of Quintana Roo (Ibanqroo) reported. 

The turtle sighting happened during the nesting season between May 1 and June 16. 

Leatherback turtle
The largest turtle species in the world, leatherbacks are unique for their distinctive leathery shell. (NOAA)

Located 45 km south of Playa del Carmen, Xcacel-Xcacelito has been a protected natural area since 1998 and is considered a wetland of international importance, also known as a Ramsar site. The area covers ​​362 hectares of jungle, beaches, mangroves, cenotes and coral reefs and has become an important tourist destination in Quintana Roo. 

According to the Ramsar Convention, Xcacel-Xcacelito has the highest breeding index in the state and in all of Mexico for the green sea turtle. 

Between 1996 and 2022, the sanctuary recorded 54,214 white or green turtle nests and 9,030 loggerhead turtle nests. Some 4.7 million white or green turtles and 712,000 loggerhead turtle hatchlings have been released in the sanctuary since. 

The leatherback sea turtle can weigh between 750 to 1,000 pounds and grow as long as 5 to 6 feet. Named after their tough rubbery skin, these turtles have existed in their current form since the age of the dinosaurs.

The area of Xcacel-Xcacelito, where the leatherback was seen nesting, is a Ramsar site that functions as a turtle sanctuary. (Government of Quintana Roo)

Once dominant in every ocean except the Arctic and Antarctic, the leatherback has rapidly declined in many parts of the world and is listed under the Endangered Species Act. In Mexico, leatherbacks have been found both in the Pacific and the Gulf of Mexico. Coastal development, however, has limited the areas where turtles can nest and forage, resulting in habitat loss.

 “In collaboration with various sectors of society, strategies and concrete measures are being developed to protect these endangered species, as well as to promote scientific research and continuous monitoring of their population,” Ibanqroo said. 

Mexico is one of the most important turtle nesting sites in the world: six of the world’s seven species of sea turtles nest on Mexico’s beaches. 

The two main turtle nesting areas are the Baja California Peninsula in the Pacific and the Yucatán Peninsula in the Gulf of Mexico.

With reports from La Jornada Maya and Lector Mx