Wednesday, April 23, 2025

How to see Oaxaca on a budget

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Oaxaca budget travel to Monte Albán
Want to experience a slice of real Mexico on a tight budget? No problems. (Ian Ostroff)

When I stayed in Playa Del Carmen for two months during the COVID-19 pandemic, there was one question I kept asking my local Mexican friends: If you were to recommend one place in Mexico to explore at least once, where would you send me? Every one of them said Oaxaca.  I’d always wanted to visit Oaxaca, but budget travel can often be a challenge, especially when you have to factor in arriving from Canada.

But the first night I arrived there in February 2023, I found out what made it so special. I stumbled upon a wedding in front of Santo Domingo church. But it wasn’t like any ceremony I’ve ever attended. Dancing in the streets. The colorful outfits everyone part of the wedding party wore. There were Mojigangas and other creative displays of expression. Happy people that got me to join their wedding festivities. I was a sweaty backpacker experiencing Oaxaca magic for the first time and the whole experience felt so magical. 

Oaxaca city real estate houses
Oaxaca City’s historic center is a Unesco World Heritage Site. (Anna Bruce)

I could spend months there without getting bored. But can you do Oaxaca right on a budget? Passing through it on my latest backpacking trip, the answer is yes. 

Why stay in a hostel when you’re in Oaxaca? 

I’ve had wonderful experiences staying at hostels during trips to Europe, and my stay at the one I went to in Oaxaca was also positive. If you’re on a budget, it can be a smart decision. 

I know myself well: all I need is a bed to sleep on, a locker to leave my valuables in and a bathroom. A hostel environment is perfect for me. I’d rather pay significantly less for the basics than triple the amount for a five-star hotel. And despite whatever scary stories may float around about hostels, they really are just cheap hotels. 

The highly rated ones on Hostelworld are clean and made me feel at home. In the three days I stayed at Casa Angel, I met new friends from all over the world and had access to guided tours in Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, a mezcal distillery and Mitla. I also got a better rate for these day trips because I booked the tours at my hostel. 

Mercado 20 de noviembre, Oaxaca
Oaxaca City’s Mercado 20 de Noviembre. (Facebook)

This is something I learned in Barcelona, but it also applies here in Oaxaca: don’t buy tours online if you can get them in person. Booking sites tend to take a 20 to 30 percent cut from all sales, which hurts local vendors. This model also makes booking online more expensive. 

But sometimes, staying in a hostel full of travelers who are seeking experiences and friendship can lead to becoming part of what feels like a strong family unit. The next thing you know, you’re hustling to sightsee with a group and cutting even more costs. 

That’s what happened to me on my Oaxaca trip: I met three new friends and we went to Monte Albán together. No tour guide. No plan. We just bought a bus ticket and winged it. But we had an incredible time getting to know each other, taking pictures and imagining what Monte Albán might’ve been like before the Spanish arrived. 

How can you eat on a budget in Oaxaca?

Eating for a reasonable price can be tricky if you don’t know how Mexico works and only stay in tourist-friendly zones. Hostesses standing outside their restaurants will try to tempt you inside for dinner. I’ve eaten at some of these places in Oaxaca and they can be hit or miss. What’s more, food at a tourist restaurant usually costs the same as it would in Canada. 

Tlayudas
The pizza-like tlayuda is one of Oaxaca’s best-known dishes. (Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro)

How did I make sure I found the best food stalls? Well, I always keep this in the back of my mind: Tourist traps have gringo prices and hole-in-the-wall places you almost miss have local prices. 

I’ve learned to identify several clues at Mexican restaurants to know the difference. The clientele, a small menu, limited seating, fair prices and salsa music playing in the background are a great start to coming across your new favorite taquería.

But in my experience, the two biggest signs are this: Coca-Cola or Pepsi chairs and how the restaurant staff greets you when you walk in. I don’t know what it is, but the best Mexican spots I’ve been to have that decor. And if the staff greets you in Spanish and only changes to English after, you know it’s a place that serves primarily locals. 

I had the best memelas in my life at a hole-in-the-wall place I discovered in Oaxaca called simply Memelas & Quesadillas. It was 25 pesos per serving, and roughly 10 to 20 pesos for a drink of your choice. Not too bad. 

Another effective way to eat on a budget is by stocking up on snacks at a convenience store like Oxxo. It’s often the first thing I do when I land in Mexico. I get cookies, crackers, water bottles, yogurt and sometimes even fruit.

Combined with seeking local establishments, my new friends and I had more money to spend on climbing the steps of Monte Albán and getting lost hiking in Hierve el Agua looking for frozen waterfalls.

Walking tours are your best friend 

A tour guide leads a group through the Oaxaca streets. (Ian Ostroff)

Of course, free is better than cheap when you’re on a budget. And since Oaxaca is one of those special cities in the world best explored by foot, there are many free walking tours you can do. The local guide at my hostel showed us around Oaxaca while also giving us brief history lessons on all the notable landmarks we reached. 

We learned on our tour that it’s believed the Zapotec people covered Monte Albán in vegetation to hide it from the Spanish. We also got to see cool street art and an epic statue of Benito Juárez pointing towards the mountains. 

We visited the church of Santo Domingo, which was free to enter. The murals on the walls and ceiling were just as picturesque as the ones I’ve seen in Europe. There also happened to be a little parade on the street close by and a kind lady gave me a hat. 

Next thing I knew, half the day was gone and our guide took us to eat lunch. By the time I was enjoying memelas with my tour group, I felt like I really got to know Oaxaca in a way that was intimate and raw. 

Meet me in Oaxaca for 2025?

All things considered, Oaxaca is possible to explore on the cheap. If I add up my expenses from my hostel stay, tours and food, I spent roughly 4,000 pesos in three days. So, have you ever done Oaxaca or anywhere else in Mexico on a budget? 

Ian Ostroff is an indie author, journalist and copywriter from Montreal, Canada. You can find his work in various outlets, including Map Happy and The Suburban. When he’s not writing, you can find Ian at the gym, a café or anywhere within Mexico visiting family and friends.

Inflation reaches its lowest point since February 2021

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A woman weighs tortillas for sale, representing inflation in Mexico
Headline inflation, which includes volatile products like food and gas, declined in December. (Miachael Balam/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico’s annual headline inflation rate declined in December to its lowest level since February 2021 while core inflation increased slightly, the national statistics agency reported Thursday.

In its most recent report, the national statistics agency INEGI found that the annual headline rate was 4.21% in December, down from 4.55% in November. It was the second consecutive month that headline inflation fell.

The 4.21% inflation reading in December was the lowest end-of-year rate since 2020, and below the 4.22% and 4.28% median estimates of economists surveyed by Bloomberg and Reuters, respectively.

The annual core inflation rate, which excludes volatile food and energy prices, increased to 3.65% in December from 3.58% in November. The increase broke a 22-month streak of annual core inflation decreases.

The 3.65% core inflation reading was just above the median estimates of economists.

INEGI also reported that consumer prices increased 0.38% in December compared to the previous month.

A man and a woman looking at a sign in a bank window listing the rate of the Mexican peso against the US dollar, the euro, the British pound sterling, the Canadian dollar and the Japanese yen.
The decline in inflation is expected to continue in 2025, though it could be limited by depreciation of the peso. (Andrea Murcia Monsivais/Cuartoscuro)

Felipe Hernández, a Latin America economist at Bloomberg, said that the inflation data for December adds “evidence that upward pressure on prices from supply shocks, increasing costs and excess domestic demand is fading.”

“We expect the inflation rate to continue slowly falling this year, though accumulated peso depreciation and persistent inflation expectations may limit the decline,” he said.

Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at Mexican bank Banco Base, said on X that the decline in inflation in December is “good news,” but added that it was the result “in part” of the economic slowdown in Mexico.

Inflation for fruit and vegetables drops 10 points in the space of a month 

INEGI’s data shows that fruit and vegetables were 6.05% more expensive in December than in the same month of 2023. Inflation for those products fell 10.76 points compared to November, when the reading was 16.81%.

Adverse climatic conditions were a major factor in high prices for fruit and vegetables last year, but the inflation rate in December indicates that the situation in the agricultural sector improved in late 2024. Prices for fruit and vegetables fell 2.82% in December on a month-over-month basis.

The annual inflation rate for all agricultural products, including meat, was 6.57% in December, down from 10.74% in November.

Annual inflation for services in December was 4.94%, while processed food, beverages and tobacco were 3.60% more expensive than a year earlier. The cost of non-food goods rose 1.33% annually while energy prices, including those for gasoline and electricity, increased 4.97%.

Will the Bank of Mexico cut interest rates again next month?

The annual headline inflation rate remained above the Bank of Mexico’s 3% target in December. However, the governing board of the central bank — which officially tolerates a 2-4% inflation range — demonstrated last year that it was prepared to cut its benchmark interest rate while the headline rate remained above 3%.

Banxico, as the bank is known, cut its key rate on five occasions last year, lowering the rate by a total of 125 basis points to 10%. The bank indicated that the ongoing decline in core inflation was a significant factor in the decision to cut rates.

The El Economista newspaper reported Thursday that the latest headline inflation data provides room for Banxico to continue its easing cycle, and noted that future interest rate cuts could be even bigger than the 25-basis-point reductions in 2024.

the Bank of Mexico, which sets the country's benchmark interest rates (Banxico)
The Bank of Mexico cut interest rates five times in 2024, and has indicated that the easing trend will continue this year.(Shutterstock)

Announcing a 25-basis-point cut on Dec. 19, Banxico said that “in view of the progress on disinflation, larger downward adjustments could be considered in some [monetary policy] meetings [in 2025].”

The central bank also said that headline and core inflation were “foreseen to follow a downward trend” in the near future, a prediction that didn’t prove to be correct in the case of core inflation in December.

The bank’s governing board will hold its next monetary policy meeting on Feb. 6.

Kimberley Sperrfechter, an Emerging Markets Economist at Capital Economics, anticipates a 25-basis-point cut next month rather than a 50-basis-point one.

“Given heightened uncertainty around U.S. President-elect Trump’s policies and with core services inflation still uncomfortably strong, we think it’s more likely that Banxico will deliver another 25bp interest rate cut, to 9.75%, at next month’s meeting,” she wrote in a note.

With reports from El Economista, El Financiero and Bloomberg

Sheinbaum to present ‘Plan Mexico’ to attract investment in the era of Trump

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Claudia Sheinbaum in mid speech while standing at the presidential podium during a press conference. She is looking forward with her gaze pointed toward her left and is holding her right hand up before her chest in a closed fist.
The plan features a portfolio of "very important" investments, which authorities hope will soothe the nerves of investors shaken by the political changes in the U.S. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)

Determined to counter uncertainty with confidence, President Claudia Sheinbaum will soon present new details of “Plan Mexico,” a joint public sector-private sector strategy to attract investment and strengthen Mexico’s economy.

Sheinbaum will present the economic proposal on Monday with a nod toward preparing for Donald Trump’s return to the White House later this month.

“Whenever there is a change in government, especially in the United States, doubts regarding investor expectations arise,” she said on Wednesday. “So on Monday we will present Plan Mexico, which features a portfolio of very important investments.”

The plan includes incentives for private investors who invest in the so-called “prosperity poles.” These “polos de bienestar” are regions that have been identified as priorities for strategic industrial development, according to the newspaper El Horizonte.

Plan Mexico also features “a very clear outline” of how Sheinbaum’s business advisory council will operate going forward.

Sheinbaum officially created the business advisory council in November, saying it would play a critical role in devising Plan Mexico, specifically by helping Mexico take full advantage of the nearshoring phenomenon and the USMCA trade deal.

Woman speaking at Mexico's presidential podium as Mexico's President Sheinbaum looks on.
Altagracia Gómez, an influential Mexican business leader, heads Sheinbaum’s new business advisory council. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

Fifteen entrepreneurs from varying sectors of the economy comprise the business council. Altagracia Gómez, the lead coordinator of the council, will work with Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard and Finance Minister Rogelio Ramírez de la O in carrying out the plan.

Sheinbaum’s Monday presentation will come exactly one week before Donald Trump is sworn in as U.S. president. Trump has created tension between the two neighboring countries by, among other things, threatening to levy tariffs on Mexican imports if the Sheinbaum administration fails to halt illegal immigration and drug trafficking.

Plan Mexico aims to demonstrate that the private sector and the government are united in their determination to mitigate the potential economic impacts of Trump’s policies.

“There are many pending investments this year and [Plan Mexico] will allow us to consolidate them for the benefit of the nation,” Sheinbaum said, while insisting that her government will work to maintain positive relations with the U.S. government, despite any differences that should arise.

“The plan not only aims to attract investment, but also promote the development of targeted regions so as to stimulate social and economic benefits for Mexico,” she said.

As such, Sheinbaum explained, the council will play a key role in coordinating efforts across the private sector to guarantee the effective implementation of the strategies.

In short, the government seeks to send a message of stability and confidence to investors, so as to strengthen Mexico’s reputation as an attractive locale for foreign capital.

Since Trump won the presidential election last November, Sheinbaum has demonstrated optimism in the face of his threats and warnings.

“I don’t anticipate a difficult relationship,” she said. “President Trump has his way of communicating, but we will work for the benefit of both countries.”

With reports from Forbes, Prensa Latina and El Horizonte

Did the Maya perform cacao ceremonies? No, but here’s why we practice them now

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A cacao ceremony in Mexico
The ancient people of Mesoamerica might not have performed them, but cacao ceremonies have found a place in modern spirituality. (All photos by María Cacao)

I first heard of cacao ceremonies a couple of years ago when images of these rituals popped up on my Instagram feed. Since then, I started encountering cacao ceremonies more frequently — I would randomly hear people mention them in conversations or find stories online about them. I even came across a story in the New York Times about a woman who hosted a cacao ceremony at her Manhattan home, in New York.  

As someone passionate about my Mexican roots, I wondered why I hadn’t heard of these rituals before — and why someone in Manhattan had! Sure, I knew chocolate was a sacred and ceremonial food for the Olmecs, Maya and Mexica civilizations, but I had never heard of them performing rituals with cacao.

The goal of a traditional Ball Game course
Cacao was used as currency in Mesoamerica, due to its medicinal properties. Its spiritual benefits, however, have not been documented to date. (María Cacao)

I became curious and began to do some research.

What are cacao ceremonies in Mexico like?

A quick Google search revealed numerous websites promoting cacao ceremonies. These sites advertise meditation ceremonies that use cacao to facilitate communication with our inner selves, claiming cacao has “powers” to access our deepest thoughts and feelings.

“A cacao ceremony is an awakening of our consciousness,” Juan Pablo Barragán, a cacao ceremony facilitator in Guadalajara, the capital city of Jalisco, told me. “Cacao helps us expand our heart and find ourselves.” 

A contemporary cacao ceremony
A cup of hot cacao can warm more than just the heart. (María Cacao)

While ancient civilizations in Mesoamerica used chocolate as a toasted beverage in engagement and marriage ceremonies, there was no such thing as a “cacao ceremony.” But nowadays, these rituals are on the rise thanks to the discovery of cacao’s “superpowers” and their application in meditation practices. 

“Cacao literally expands the heart,” María Cobar, founder of María Cacao, a Mexican brand that commercializes artisanal cacao, told me. “Physically, cacao makes you feel better,” she said.  

Research has found that cacao has over 800 chemical compounds, including theobromine anandamide and phenylethylamine, which are responsible for stimulating the heart, widening blood vessels and inducing a feeling of relaxation and well-being. Cacao also stimulates the release of endorphins, known as the happiness hormone. 

Not to be confused with chocolate or cocoa, cacao is the fermented and dried seed of the Theobroma cacao tree, from which cocoa powder and cocoa butter are extracted. Cacao is also the base ingredient for chocolate.

The fruit of the cacao tree
The fruit of the cacao tree has proven to have anti-inflammatory effects and to lower blood pressure. (María Cacao)

During cacao ceremonies, participants drink a beverage made from pure cacao powder or paste. This cacao is dubbed “ceremonial grade cacao,” indicating it has remained unaltered without any spices, sweeteners or other additives.

“I like to call it celestial cacao,” María told me. “Because that’s how it makes you feel.”

Unlike other indigenous medicinal plants like ayahuasca or peyote, which can lead to hallucinations, cacao’s effects are mild on the body, bringing a sense of peace and warmth. “It’s a very noble medicine,” María said. 

Ancient civilizations in today’s Mexico noted these benefits before science could prove them. It’s no wonder that due to its medicinal properties, the Olmecs, Maya and Mexica revered cacao and dubbed it “food of the gods.” 

A central altar in a cacao ceremony in Mexico
Cacao ceremonies offer the chance to feel “warm and comforted” according to those who have experienced them. (María Cacao)

Cacao’s effects on the body are described by facilitators and people who have experienced cacao ceremonies as “apapachadores,” derived from the Nahuatl “papatzoa,” which means “to soften fruit with fingers.” 

Apapachar is more than pampering or hugging. It’s a poetic way of comforting and showing care. It’s to hug someone with the heart and soul. 

“Cacao makes you feel warm and comforted,” Juan Pablo said. “In other words, apapachado.” In some way, we’ve all felt that on a cold winter day after a cup of hot chocolate, haven’t we? 

At ceremonies, facilitators recommend using between 30 to 42 grams of ceremonial cacao. Pregnant women or people with sensitivity to caffeine should adjust the dose accordingly. Cacao is then mixed with warm water and if wished, people can add a natural sweetener like honey or date.  

Ceremonial cacao is served in 'jarritos' or teacups
Any time of year is perfect for a cacao ceremony, not just January. (María Cacao)

In some ceremonies, the facilitator invites guests to give an offering. “It can be anything,” Juan Pablo said. “Flowers, fruits, anything.” Typically, offerings are placed at the center of the group. Some facilitators use musical instruments as a resource to induce relaxation and meditation. 

“Contrary to what people believe, facilitators don’t give advice in a cacao ceremony,” Juan Pablo said. “Instead, the ceremony allows participants to open to themselves and find their inner voice.” 

For María, the beauty of cacao relies on the fact that anyone can be a facilitator in a ceremony. “You don’t have to go to a group ceremony. You can perform your own ceremony at home. All you need is a cup of cacao and a clear intention,” she explained. 

A cacao ceremony is great for new beginnings — from a new year to a new month, week or even a new day. “It’s a celebration of life,” María says. “An opportunity to connect with your inner wisdom, so you can live lighter, more present, happier and more open to the energy of love in your life.” 

María doesn’t believe that cacao ceremonies are a trend — instead, they are here to stay. And after my conversation with these wonderful experts, I must say I agree. 

Gaby Solís is a Mexican lawyer turned full-time writer. She was born and raised in Guadalajara and covers business, culture, lifestyle, and travel for Mexico News Daily. You can follow her lifestyle blog Dunas y Palmeras.

Sheinbaum wants US to help end gun smuggling to Mexico: Wednesday’s mañanera recapped

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Claudia Sheinbaum at a press conference, standing behind the presidential podium, gesturing with both hands parallel in front of her, as if to show the size of something.
Claudia Sheinbaum at her daily press conference on Wednesday. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

President Claudia Sheinbaum revealed almost a month ago that she and her husband had moved into the National Palace, eliminating the need to commute to her weekday morning press conferences, colloquially known as mañaneras.

Sheinbaum’s press conferences commence at 7:30 a.m. — 30 minutes later than the starting time of former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s mañaneras — and are held in the Salón de Tesorería (Treasury Hall) of the National Palace, located in the historic center of Mexico City.

President Sheinbaum’s daily press conference follow the example of her predecessor, former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador, who held daily conferences as well. Sheinbaum’s conferences, however, begin a bit later in the day. (Gustavo Alberto/Cuartoscuro)

Here is a recap of some of the issues the president spoke about at her Wednesday  mañanera.

Sheinbaum: Public infrastructure projects and private investment will boost formal sector employment

A reporter highlighted that formal sector employment declined last month — over 405,000 jobs were lost, the worst December result on record — and asked the president what the government was doing to increase jobs in that sector and reduce informal sector employment.

Sheinbaum noted that the number of people employed in the formal sector always declines in December, but accepted that the reduction was larger than usual last year.

She described the end-of-year decline in formal sector employment as a “seasonal issue,” noting that many workers have annual contracts that end in December.

“This year there was a larger decrease,” Sheinbaum said.

A shell of a concrete building in a rectangular shape with workers in construction gear walking to and fro
Workers constructing the Maya Train station in Cancún in Dec. 2023. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

“What do we associate it with? Essentially, the completion of public works: the refinery [in Tabasco], the Maya Train, et cetera. The vast majority of these large projects that created a lot of jobs — particularly in the south-southeast — finished,” she said.

Sheinbaum said that “one part” of the jobs lost in December will be recovered when new government infrastructure projects — including railwater and housing projects — commence.

She said that some of those projects will start in March or April.

Sheinbaum also said that private investment would spur formal sector job creation.

In the first nine months of last year, private companies, including numerous foreign ones, announced plans to invest almost US $65 billion in Mexico, while the most recent foreign investment data shows that over $31 billion flowed into the country in the first six months of 2024.

President highlights the importance of stopping the entry of firearms from US 

Early in her press conference, Sheinbaum responded to Donald Trump’s announcement on Tuesday that he would rename the Gulf of Mexico the Gulf of America, and his assertion that Mexico is “essentially run by the cartels.”

Later in the mañanera, she said that such remarks wouldn’t have a negative impact on the relationship between Mexico and the United States.

“We’re going to collaborate with and understand the government of president Trump, I’m sure of that,” Sheinbaum said while stressing that her administration would defend Mexico’s sovereignty as a “free” and “independent” country.

Mexico and the U.S. will collaborate on trade, security and migration issues, she said.

High caliber automatic rifles laid in a row on a street in Mexico. In view nearby are the legs of people in soldier's boots and military fatigues.
Guns confiscated in an October incident in Guerrero where armed criminals had ambushed a convoy of Mexican army soldiers. Around 75% of weapons confiscated in crimes in Mexico were smuggled into the country from the United States. (Defensa/Cuartoscuro)

“And what we’re very interested in is that the entry of weapons from the United States to Mexico stops because 75% of firearms seized [in Mexico] … come from the United States,” Sheinbaum said.

“Of course we’re going to collaborate … on everything that has to do with the trafficking of drugs, but we are also very interested in addressing the entry of weapons from the United States,” she said.

The federal government estimates that hundreds of thousands of guns are smuggled into Mexico every year. Many of those firearms end up in the hands of cartel members or other criminals.

While foreign affairs minister in 2021, current Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard said that reducing violence in Mexico would be very difficult if the United States didn’t do more to stop the illegal flow of weapons into the country. In 2022, he said that most of Mexico was in the grip of a “firearms pandemic.”

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies ([email protected])

Drought watch: Mexico’s 2025 dry season could last 6 long months

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Dried out soil by a small reservoir in Tequisquiapan, Queretaro
The El Centenario reservoir in Tequisquiapan, Querétaro, was one of many bodies of water across Mexico that lost water levels to drought in 2024. (César Gómez/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico’s 2025 dry season could last around six months, according to predictions by the National Water Commission (Conagua) — from late November 2024 to May 2025 — meaning a potentially difficult year ahead in states by no means fully recuperated from drought conditions in 2024. 

“The water crisis in Mexico is severe and represents a paradox because although torrential rains have occurred in recent months, drought persists in large areas of the country,” said UNAM postdoctoral engineering researcher Norma Elizabeth Olvera Fuentes. 

Mexican man riding a bicycle on a causeway filled with flood-prevention sandbags set up by the Lerma River in San Mateo Atenco, Mexico state.
Heavy rains during 2024’s Atlantic hurricane season brought welcome relief to many drought-stricken parts of Mexico, and even had some communities dealing with flood conditions. But Mexico is expecting a six-month dry season in 2025, which could undo any progress. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

In response to Mexico’s years-long struggles with drought and water scarcity, new President Claudia Sheinbaum introduced Mexico’s National Water Plan (PNH) 2024–2030 in November, aimed at ensuring water sustainability, equity in access and protection of water resources for future generations.

The government has earmarked 20 billion pesos (US $979 million) for water projects across the country in 2025.

What parts of Mexico are still in drought?

Mexico’s northwest region is currently experiencing widespread drought, in the states of Chihuahua, Sinaloa, Sonora and Baja California.

In Chihuahua, Conagua considers 27 of the state’s municipalities, or 46.5% to be in extreme drought. Another 24 municipalities, or 14.7%, are facing exceptional drought, according to the federal water agency.

In the central Bajío state of Querétaro, nine municipalities are experiencing moderate drought, and six are suffering abnormally dry conditions, marking 58.6% of the state’s land, according to Conagua. Meanwhile, 37% of neighboring Guanajuato state is facing drought conditions. 

Mexico City Mayor Clara Brugada standing behind a plexiglass podium at a press conference. Behind her is a giant sign that says "Agua Bienestar"
Mexico City Mayor Clara Brugada announced in December that the capital would halve its reliance on the Cutzamala system, a network of dams, canals and pipes, for two years. The system reached a historic low of 30% last year. (Andrea Murcia Monsivaís/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico City: Letting the Cutzamala recover  

In December, after a year of water scarcity and shortages in the nation’s capital — and media talk of a “Day Zero,” when Mexico City would run out of water for residents — Mayor Clara Brugada announced a plan to halve the capital’s reliance on the Cutzamala water system for two years, to let it recuperate from persistent water losses. 

The Cutzamala is a series of dams, canals and pipes supplying around 27% of the capital’s water. for two years, to let it recuperate from losses. Drought and other factors have decreased its water levels significantly in recent years, and it reached a historic low of under 30% of capacity in May.

However, three of its dams — Villa Victoria, Valle de Bravo and El Bosque — registered levels above 60% in December, according to Conagua.

Sonora: Agriculture hit hard

In Sonora, drought is expected to significantly cut the state’s wheat production this year. A historic low of 15% of the 150,000 hectares typically used for grain will be sown, general director of the Yaqui River irrigation district Humberto Borbón Valencia told the newspaper La Jornada.

According to Valencia, 22,000 farmers in the irrigation district could be affected.  

The Yaqui River basin has a water deficit of more than 300 million cubic meters, a situation that threatens southern Sonora’s economy, which particularly relies on farming. 

Tamaulipas considers cloud seeding

In Tamaulipas, 4.8% of the state is in moderate drought, and 9.3% is abnormally dry, according to the SMN. Conditions are worst in northern Tamaulipas, negatively affecting agricultural production there, state Hydraulic Resources Ministry head Raúl Quiroga said. 

Mexican men in tee shirts, button down shirts, many of them in cowboy hats, gathered in a crowd on a bridge over small river in Jamauve, Tamaulipas
In arid Jaumave, Tamaulipas, competition for scarce water can be fierce. In 2022, ranchers here formed an armed self-defense group to prevent illegal extraction of water from the Guayalejo river by other local farmers without legal water rights to do so. (Cuartoscuro)

State authorities there are considering cloud seeding, a weather modification technique aimed at improving a cloud’s ability to produce rain.

“We are going to do what we can against nature,” Quiroga said, according to the news site El Sol de Tampico.  

The state also invested in cloud seeding in 2023 — efforts deemed successful by state Agriculture Undersecretary Eliseo Camacho — at a cost of around 340,000 pesos (US $16,654), funded by the National Commission of Arid Zones (Conaza).

With reports from El Economista, La Jornada, Diario de Querétaro, El Heraldo de Chihuahua, El Diario, El Sol de Tampico and Milenio

Activist attacks statue of Israeli prime minister in Mexico City Wax Museum

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The attack on Benjamin Netanyahu's statue in Mexico City's Wax Museum
The Israel Embassy in Mexico condemned the attack on the Prime Minister's statue as a "detestable act of violence." (Screen capture/@BTSnewsroom via Instagram)

A masked activist destroyed a statue of Israel’s Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu in Mexico City’s Wax Museum on Tuesday night. 

A video posted on Instagram by @BTSnewsroom, an account that posts news about global politics and movements, shows the pro-Palestine activist covering the statue in red paint — emulating blood — before striking its face with a hammer. The man was carrying the Palestinian flag, which he laid at the foot of the statue. 

Benjamin Netanyahu's statue after the attack on Mexico City's Wax Museum
The masked protestor laid the Palestinian flag at the statue’s feet and proceeded to attack it with a hammer. (X)

“With a lot of respect for the Jewish community, [I’m doing this] for Hind Rajab,” the protester said as he vandalized the statue of a “genocidal [State leader].” After making the comments to the camera, the person smashed the sculpture of Netanyahu against the floor. 

Hind Rajab was a five-year-old Palestinian girl who was assassinated on Jan. 29, 2024, along with her cousins, aunt and uncle, allegedly by Israel’s Defense Forces. Israel has denied the accusations. 

At the end of the video, the perpetrator told the camera: “Long live Palestine. Long live Sudan. Long live Yemen. Long live Puerto Rico. Long live Tigray.”

In a statement, the Israeli Embassy in Mexico condemned the wreckage of the sculpture. 

“The attack on the statue of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu is a detestable act that sends a dangerous message of violence, intolerance and hatred that goes beyond any legitimate criticism,” the Embassy wrote. It also urged cultural institutions in Mexico to take action to prevent any further “acts of pure violence.” 

Neither the Wax Museum nor Mexican authorities have made an official comment on the incident or confirmed whether they will take any action against the aggressor.  

The identity of the activist has not yet been revealed, nor has it been confirmed whether he will face legal charges by the museum for the damage caused. 

In recent years, museum activism and the use of artworks as a tool of protest have become increasingly common. In October 2022, environmental activists threw mashed potatoes at a Monet painting in Potsdam’s Barberini Museum, and fossil fuel protesters smeared chocolate cake over the wax figure of King Charles III in London.

This is the first known attack on a statue of the Israeli leader. 

With reports from Animal Político and Enlace Judío

Mexico hits record-high trade surplus with US in 2024

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Shipping containers in many different colors waiting in stacks to be loaded at the Port of Enenada.
The Port of Ensenada, located in Baja California. It's a mere 110 kilometers by highway to the United States. (Omar Martínez/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico had a record-high trade surplus with the United States in the first 11 months of 2024, and maintained its position as the top exporter to the world’s largest economy.

Data published by the United States Census Bureau on Tuesday showed that Mexico had a surplus of US $157.2 billion with the U.S. between January and November, a 12.5% increase compared to the $139.69 billion surplus it recorded in the same period of 2023.

Multicolored pie chart from US Census showing the U.S.'s top sources of imports in November 2024. There are 11 pie pieces. The biggest piece is labeled "all others" and is valued at 86.8 billion USD. The next biggest piece is labeled "Mexico," valued at 42.2 billion USD.
Mexico has consistently been the U.S.’s top source of imports over 2024, including in November. (US Census)

The value of Mexico’s exports to its northern neighbor increased 6.4% annually to a new high of $466.62 billion in the first 11 months of last year.

The value of imports from the United States also increased compared to 2023, but by a more modest 3.5% to reach $309.42 billion.

Mexico’s trade surplus with the United States — which has more than doubled in the last seven years — is a major irritant for U.S. President-elect Donald Trump, who will commence his second term on Jan. 20.

Mexico ahead of China and Canada as top exporter to the US 

Mexico’s share of the United States’ $2.98 trillion market for exports in the first 11 months of last year was 15.6%. That percentage represented a slight increase compared to the 15.5% share Mexico had in the same period of 2023.

China was the second largest exporter to the United States between January and November, sending goods worth $401.4 billion across the Pacific Ocean to its trade war adversary. China thus had a 13.5% share of the U.S. export market, down from 13.9% in 2023.

Mexican worker at an automotive factory in Guanajuato. Many of Mexico’s imports are products made by foreign companies in Mexico and sold in the U.S. market. (File photo/Government of Guanajuato)

Canada had a 12.6% share of the market between January and November, exporting goods worth $377.24 billion to its southern neighbor. Canada’s share of the U.S. export market dropped a full point from 13.6% in 2023.

The Census Bureau’s latest trade statistics indicate that final 2024 data will show that Mexico was the world’s top exporter to the United States for a second consecutive year. Mexico surpassed China to take the No. 1 position in 2023.

Mexico and the United States were also each other’s largest trade partners in the first 11 months of last year. Two-way trade increased 5.2% annually to $776.04 billion.

Mexico’s surplus with the US raises Trump’s ire 

Trump has long been critical of Mexico’s trade surplus with the United States, and it was a significant factor in his desire to terminate NAFTA, which was replaced by the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement, or USMCA, during his first term as president.

However, Mexico’s surplus with the United States has only increased in recent years, at least in part due to the trade war between the United States and China that Trump initiated.

The El Economista newspaper reported that Mexico’s surplus increased 146% between 2017 and 2024, whereas it only increased 3.6% between 2010 and 2017. The trade war between the U.S. and China began in early 2018.

During an interview with NBC’s “Meet the Press” program last month, Trump railed against the trade deficits the United States is recording with both Mexico and Canada.

“We’re subsidizing Canada to the tune of over $100 billion a year. We’re subsidizing Mexico for almost $300 billion,” he said, significantly exaggerating the United States’ trade deficits with both countries.

“We shouldn’t be — why are we subsidizing these countries? If we’re going to subsidize them, let them become a state. We’re subsidizing Mexico and we’re subsidizing Canada and we’re subsidizing many countries all over the world,” Trump said.

Donald Trump speaking at CPAC 2011 in Washington, D.C.
In his trade rhetoric, US President-elect Donald Trump frequently refers erroneously to the U.S.’ trade deficits with other countries like Mexico and Canada as “subsidies.” (Gage Skidmore/Wikimedia Commons – Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0)

“All I want to do is I want to have a level, fast, but fair playing field,” he added.

On Tuesday, just before announcing his intention to rename the Gulf of Mexico the Gulf of America, Trump once again noted that the United States has “a massive deficit with Mexico.”

He plans to implement new tariffs or increase existing ones to combat trade imbalances between the United States and its trade partners, although a 25% duty he has pledged to impose on all Mexican exports is, according to Trump himself, aimed at getting Mexico to do more to stop the flow of drugs and migrants to the U.S.

There are differing views over whether trade deficits are bad for a country, as the Council on Foreign Relations noted in an article published during Trump’s first term as president.

“Many economists and trade experts do not believe that trade deficits hurt the economy, and warn against trying to ‘win’ the trade relationship with particular countries. Others, however, believe that sustained trade deficits are often a problem,” the article said.

With reports from El Economista 

Looters drill away 400-year-old cave art from Coahuila nature reserve

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Cave paintings at Cuatro Ciénagas
“These acts not only constitute theft but also destroy irreplaceable cultural heritage,” a National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) spokesperson said. (Mauricio Marat/Cuartoscuro)

Authorities in the northern state of Coahuila are investigating the theft and destruction of centuries-old cave paintings in Cuatro Ciénegas, a beautiful nature reserve and UNESCO World Heritage site nominee.

The targeted area, located in Lizard Canyon in the rugged and remote Sierra de Australia mountains, contains rock art believed to be over 400 years old.

Cuatro Ciénegas
Cuatro Ciénegas is one of several invaluable sites in Mexico for understanding pre-Columbian history and the interaction between humans and their environment during the era. (Mauricio Marat/Cuartoscuro)

According to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), looters used tools such as drills and grinders to remove sections of rock bearing the paintings. First reported Saturday by guides who take visitors to the site, the damage was described as irreversible.

“These acts not only constitute theft but also destroy irreplaceable cultural heritage,” an INAH spokesperson said.

Cuatro Ciénegas (four marshes) is a biosphere reserve known for its historical significance — in addition to its biodiversity and rare natural features, such as uncommon high-desert wetlands and endemic species — so the stolen fragments of painted rock represent a significant loss.

The cave paintings here include intricate depictions created by Indigenous peoples, offering insight into their lives, beliefs and artistic expressions. Experts note that such sites are invaluable for understanding pre-Columbian history and the interaction between humans and their environment during the era.

José Francisco Aguilar Moreno of the INAH Center in Coahuila told Milenio that the looters damaged a surface area of 30 centimeters (12 inches); the full cave painting covers an area six meters long and three meters high, he noted.

Local authorities and INAH called for an investigation by filing a complaint with the federal Attorney General (FGR). No details about suspects or the whereabouts of the stolen fragments were given, but Aguilar said those responsible could face a sentence of up to 10 years in prison.

Cave paintings at Cuatro Cienegas
Cuatro Ciénegas contains many cave paintings from diverse time periods, dating from 2,000 to 500 years ago. (Mauricio Marat/Cuartoscuro)

Officials are calling for enhanced security measures and increased public awareness to prevent similar crimes in the future, but the incident underscores the challenges of protecting immovable heritage sites.

“It is very difficult to take care of these types of spaces because we have more than 4,000 sites throughout Coahuila,” Aguilar said. “Not even the entire state police, the National Guard or the army would be enough to protect them.”

The theft has drawn condemnation from cultural and academic organizations, with activists advocating for stricter penalties for crimes against cultural heritage. 

The crime took place on private property, officials said, so investigators will interview locals as the investigation advances.

Coahuila is Mexico’s third-largest state by land area (behind Chihuahua and Sonora) and is a significant region for mining and agriculture.

With reports from Milenio, Excelsior and Vanguardia

‘Emilia Pérez’ is the most insensitive film I’ve seen in years

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Zoe Saldana and Sofia Gascon Alarcon in a scene from Emilia Perez
Despite sweeping the Golden Globes, not everyone is happy with "Emilia Pérez." (Netflix)

I’ll begin with two disclaimers.

First, this review is written by a Mexican writer who worked for several years writing scripts for films, series, TV shows and at a major newspaper. I left this profession when streaming platforms asked me to portray a drug lord as a hero, when TV networks requested that I justify the military’s presence on the streets of Mexico and when my newspaper edited my articles and manipulated figures regarding online campaign expenses for presidential candidates — money that seemed to come from nowhere.

The main characters of the movie "Emilia Pérez," which has been nominated for 10 Golden Globe awards
There is controversy around the “Emilia Pérez” movie, which presents drug traffickers as heroes. (Emilia Pérez Film/X)

Second, it’s important to recognize that films and television shows have a powerful influence on how we perceive the world. Audiovisual media professionals carry a significant responsibility to thoughtfully consider both what we portray and how we present it on screen. This is why I was so disappointed to see French director Jaques Audiard’s musical comedy “Emilia Pérez” win best film in the comedy and musical category at the Golden Globes on Sunday.

Why do some Mexicans dislikeEmilia Pérez so much?

The problem isn’t that “Emilia Pérez” is a comedy. This isn’t the first time a comedy about drug trafficking has been made. “El Infierno,” directed by Luis Estrada in 2010, is one of the most popular films in Mexico. The character of El Cochiloco, known for his outrageous lines, has become unforgettable to a generation.

This issue isn’t that I think only Mexicans can discuss Mexican issues. “La Civil,” one of the most powerful films regarding the search for mothers and the government’s failure to address cases of forced disappearance was directed by Romanian filmmaker Teodora Mihai. “La Civil”  is a deeply moving film, and its impact is heightened by the perspective of an outsider.

Though it’s caught a lot of flack, the issue isn’t even Selena Gomez’s accent. Every non-native speaker faces challenges when learning a new language. While someone like Eiza González, who has an impeccable command of both Spanish and English, could have been a great choice for the role of the drug lord’s spouse, having Selena Gomez in the cast definitely brings a level of star power.

Selena Gomez, Jacques Audiard and Adriana Paz
“Emilia Pérez” film seems to celebrate narco culture, which has sparked controversy among the Mexican viewership. (Emilia Pérez Film/X)

Does “Emilia Pérez” celebrate narcos?

Personally — and I think many in Mexico feel the same way — it bothers me deeply when drug traffickers are presented as heroes, as happens in shows like “Narcos,” “El Chapo” and “El Señor de los Cielos.”

Turning the country’s biggest security crisis into a musical where the protagonist is one of the perpetrators of that crisis shows a profound lack of respect. Think about the worst crisis of violence in your country in recent years. Now imagine if a foreign director made a film about one of the perpetrators of that violence attempting to redeem themselves, turning reality on its head and solving the crisis they actually helped create. As if that weren’t enough, imagine if that film were marketed as a musical comedy. For me, that was “Emilia Pérez,” and watching this trivialization was deeply painful.

The plot of “Emilia Pérez” involves the title character, a former drug lord, setting up a nonprofit to search for the bodies of victims of forced disappearance. There are 121,290  victims of this crime in Mexico, according to the National Registry of Missing Persons (RNPDNO). The true number is in all likelihood higher, however. Organizations that deal with the forced disappearance crisis have drawn attention to systemic underreporting of the disappeared. In addition to organized crime, state forces are also responsible for this crisis.

Victims of forced disappearance are often uninvolved in criminal activities. Many are ordinary citizens, including businesspeople, journalists, doctors, nurses, lawyers and public officials. Women, children, disabled people, migrants and poor people in general are particularly vulnerable to being forcibly disappeared. Watching “Emilia Pérez,” the reality of this situation was too stark to ignore.

Families of missing persons lookng for remains in mexico
Current initiatives to identify the disappeared are fragmented, and involve many parts of society, including relatives, non-governmental organizations and federal forensic agencies. (Adolfo Vladimir/Cuartoscuro)

What message does this film send?

Director Jacques Audiard explained that he needed a hyper-masculine context to effectively transition into a feminine world. However, could he not have chosen a businessman or politician instead? I believe that a story about the experiences of transgender people could have been just as impactful without relying on the painful cliché of a Mexico that revolves around drug lords.

When crafting a script, it is essential to clearly define protagonists and antagonists. The characters can be as complex as you want, and they should be deeply human, displaying both strengths and flaws. To generate empathy with the audience, you need to appeal to the emotions the characters evoke through their conflicts and actions.

Portraying the leader of a cartel as a redeemed character, as Audiard’s film does, conveys a powerful message. It suggests, perhaps unintentionally, that traffickers are just as human as anyone else, that they simply want to live their lives, that they are parents too, that they can be benefactors and good people.

The recognition of narratives like this by Hollywood sends a troubling message of acceptance towards a narco-culture that many Mexicans are striving to erase from the international imagination. While watching the film, I couldn’t shake the thought that our social crisis is not being taken seriously, and this portrayal almost feels like a humiliating mockery of our reality.

Is there anything good about “Emilia Pérez”?

The cinematography and production design are impeccable, creating an atmosphere that resembles Mexico even though much of the filming took place in a studio in Paris. Additionally, Karla Sofía Gascón and Zoë Saldaña deliver outstanding performances, showcasing their talents as excellent actresses.

Some Mexicans liked “Emilia Pérez,” notably Oscar-winning director Guillermo del Toro, who called director Audiard “one of the most amazing filmmakers alive.”

Del Toro lives in Los Angeles. Maybe those of us in Mexico upset by “Emilia Pérez” are too close to the conflict. For us, the impunity enjoyed by those responsible for over 300,000 dead and 121,000 missing isn’t material for a comedy. 

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.