A savory sweet Mexican treat to use up your Halloween leftovers

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November 18, 2024

Mexican empanadas — With 800 years of history, empanadas predate Mexico by centuries. (Canva)

Let’s talk empanadas, a wonderful delicacy, whether savory or sweet, that is a part of Mexican culture and cuisine and an age-old tradition.

Empanadas are believed to have originated in the Iberian Peninsula with references made to them in medieval cookbooks dating from the 13th century. In fact, the name “empanada” comes from the Galician verb empanar, which means “to wrap or coat in bread.”

Empanadas are a popular snack throughout Mexico. (Turcos Santiago/Facebook)

The first empanadas were savory with aged cheese or preserved fish used for fillings, reflecting the limited ingredients available in the Middle Ages. It wasn’t until the 16th Century that empanadas reached Latin America, brought to Mexico by the conquistadors. Naturally, the Mexicans adapted them using local ingredients and spices to make them their own. A notable exception became the “turco” that originated in Nuevo Leon, inspired by Turks who traveled here in the 1840s and introduced pork fat to the dough (as Emeril says, “Pork fat rules!”), which transformed empanadas into a savory pastry. Turcos are filled with meats and cheeses and are known for their sweet, rich flavor due to the pork fat in the dough. In Guerrero, on the other hand, you might find empanadas filled with seafood or fish while in Oaxaca, you might find them stuffed with mole or other sauces.

Now let’s talk “sweet” empanadas, so popular in Mexico. They may be filled with cinnamon-spiced apples, or pumpkin and cream-cheese (like our recipe) and other goodies, but what separates them from their savory counterpart is the dough. The dough of a sweet empanada contains sugar, butter or lard (adding richness and flavor), and flavorings like cinnamon, vanilla, chocolate or even almond flour. This results in a softer and more tender product that’s often flaky, like pastry. The savory version, however, focuses on three factors: Flour; salt; and fat (usually lard), resulting in a firmer and sturdier crust, which means it can be baked or fried without becoming overly soft.

Since the holidays are approaching, I thought it might be fun to incorporate the holiday dessert foods we think of like pumpkin and cheesecake into one Mexican delicacy that would make an amazing dessert for any holiday dinner or occasion! So, let’s get baking!

Pumpkin Cheesecake Empanadas

Mexican pumpkin empanadas — Recipe adapted from castellonskitchen.com. Makes 16 empanadas. (Canva)

Filling:

1 Cup (250 g) pumpkin puree* (puré de calabaza). Make your own. It’s easy and you’ll never taste anything like it!
5-8 lbs. (2.25 kg – 3.6 kg) pumpkin (roughly two small pumpkins)
- Preheat oven to 375F/190C. Wash pumpkin. Line baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the stems off the pumpkins and cut in half, lengthwise. Scrape the seeds from inside the pumpkins. Place pumpkin halves, cut side down, on the baking sheet. Bake for about 35-45 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender when pierced with a fork. Scoop the cooked pumpkin out of the shells and put in a food processor or blender. Blend until smooth. Add a tablespoon or two of water, if needed.

1/4 Cup (50 g) brown sugar (azúcar moreno)
1 tsp. (4.2 g) vanilla extract* (extracto de vanilla) *
- Mexican brands noted for intense flavor: Villa Vainilla; Vainilla Totonac’s; Molina Vainilla
1 1/2 tsp. (2.8 g) pumpkin-pie spice
- 4 tsp. (10.4 g) ground cinnamon (canela); *2 tsp. (5.62 g) ground ginger; *1 tsp. (2.1 g) ground cloves (clavo molido); *1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg (nuez moscada molida). Mix together and store in an air-tight container.
1/4 tsp. cinnamon, ground (canela)

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 350F/175C
Spray baking dish with cooking spray
In a large bowl, mix together pumpkin, condensed milk, sugar, cream-cheese and eggs until well combined, reaching a light and fluffy texture (about 3 minutes).
Add vanilla, pumpkin-pie spice and cinnamon and beat until incorporated.
Pour batter into baking dish.
Bake mixture until set, about 25 minutes.
Cool on racks.
Cover and refrigerate for about an hour until completely cool or overnight.

Empanada Dough:

Preheat oven to 400F/204C
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper

Ingredients:

2 /12 Cups (325 g) all-purpose flour
- Use only American flour, available online.
1/2 tsp. (3 g) salt (sal)
1/4 tsp. (1.2 g) baking powder (polvo de hornear)
1/2 tsp. (0.69 g) ground cinnamon (canela)
1/2 Cup (115 g) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces (mantequilla sin sal)
1/2 Cup (95.5 g) shortening*
- Use Inca Manteca brand, found in Mexico.
3/4 Cup (171 g) ice water (agua)
Cinnamon-sugar* for sprinkling empanadas.
- To make cinnamon-sugar: Add 1/4 Cup (99.4 g) cinnamon (canela) to 1 Cup (200 g) sugar (azúcar estándar). Store in air-tight container.

Egg-wash for Crust:
1 large egg, beaten with 1 tsp. (4.9 g) water

Directions:

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt, and baking powder.
Add butter and shortening.
Working quickly and using your fingers, combine mixture until it resembles coarse meal.
Add water. Flour your hands and mix together.
Knead once or twice to fully combine. (The less kneading the better.)
Divide dough in half.
Cover each half with plastic wrap and refrigerate 15 minutes. (Dough can be refrigerated up to 5 days. Bring to room temperature before using.)
Divide each piece of dough into 8 pieces.
Take one piece of dough from refrigerator and using a floured rolling pin on a floured surface, roll the piece into an 1/8-inch-thick oval. (Leave the rest of the pieces in the refrigerator. Roll one at a time.)
* Using a medium sized cookie scoop, place 2-3 scoops of pumpkin-cheesecake filling into center of the dough. Fold dough over to enclose filling and seal edges with a fork. Using a spatula, transfer the empanada to a parchment-lined cookie sheet.
Coat each empanada with egg-wash and sprinkle generously with cinnamon sugar.
Bake for 20-25 minutes.
Let cool and serve with or without icing.

Icing:

2 Cups (230 g) powdered sugar
1-2 Tbs. (15.3 g to 30.6 g) milk

Mix until blended. Add more milk as needed to reach desired consistency. Drizzle over empanadas.

Disfruta!

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter™ on FaceBook and X (Twitter), and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” via CakeChatter (available @amazon.com). She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals™ (aa-wp.com).

The funnest way I’ve found to explore Mexico

By

Bel Woodhouse

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November 18, 2024

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exploring Mexico — The discovery of Mexican scratch maps sent Bel Woodhouse on an frenzied series of trips to discover everything Mexico has to offer. (Rasca Mapas)

I admit it: I geek out on Mexico stuff. My favorite thing is exploring new places and learning about their beautiful traditions. So when Robin, who is exploring Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos, introduced me to the Rasca Mapas scratch map of the Magical Towns I was hooked. I had to have one and ordered my own that same day.

When it arrived, a new side of Mexico opened up for me. All 32 states with the 177 Pueblos Mágicos are listed. They are just begging to be visited so I can scratch them off my map. But there are other scratch maps, too. There are maps of Mexico showing the 32 states, one for the municipalities, and one for Mexico City. There’s a scratch map of the Archaeological Sites of Mexico, too — I want that one).

A scratch map of Mexico — The scratch map that inspired Bel. (Rasca Mapas)

Best of all, there is a travel journal to accompany them. This has to be the most fun way to explore Mexico. It’s enriching my knowledge and understanding of the country I live in, and it even helps my Spanish!

177 Pueblos Màgicos

What I love most about this scratch map is that it makes me want to get out and go to more places. To scratch off another adventure, explore and experience the beauty of Mexico.

So far, eight have been scratched off my map. One was a no-brainer: Cozumel, where I live. So, it didn’t hold the kind of excitement that the most recent one, Tequisquiapan, did. It was amongst three new Pueblos Mágicos scratched off my map last month. On a trip to the central highlands visiting Querétaro and Guanajuato, I got to scratch off Bernal, Tequisquiapan and Dolores Hidalgo.

Having the map makes me put visiting Pueblos Mágicos at the top of my list when traveling. When planning a trip, the first thing I look at now is which Pueblos Mágicos are nearby. I read up on their history and what they are famous for. It’s making me more interested in every part of Mexico.

My Fun Scratch Map Travel Journal

Watch this video on YouTube

Plus, there is a matching travel journal with its own scratch map guide inside.

The travel journal

When I received my travel journal, I swear the heavens opened and angels sang. I love the feel of it in my hands. It’s hard-covered and sturdy enough to withstand a frequent traveler like me. As an avid note-taker and sketcher, it has the perfect balance for me. Lined pages are on one side for notes, and a blank page is on the other to fill with sketches.

Both fun and professional, I’m using this journal as a work tool. The lined page is very helpful for quickly jotting things down so I don’t forget. Important things like the correct spelling of towns, textiles and businesses. Like my favorite winery, Viñedo Los Arcángeles, and extensive notes on the best wine tasting of my life.

Bel’s winetasting notes. (Bel Woodhouse)

If I hadn’t written down Tequisquiapan, it would have been very frustrating trying to figure out how to spell it. It’s not the easiest name to remember or say. Try saying it three times fast. My guide and I played that game and ended up in fits of laughter.

This journal is more than just a journal. It’s an educational tool, a work tool, and a tool to help me immerse myself in this beautiful country. It’s even helping me get more fluent in Spanish by writing down new words, names, and phrases. Plus, it’s a sketchbook to catalog the beautiful botanicals I find. Mexico’s biodiversity is astounding.

As a botanical artist, I adore learning about Mexico’s native plants and recording my findings in my journal, showing where in Mexico I found them.

Fun exploring Mexico

My journal is now a sanctuary. When traveling it provides me with balance. Some time for me to take note of all the beauty I see. Unusual things I find, and beautiful yet unusual experiences I have. Like meeting Samantha.

Samantha is the gorgeous Mexican Fire Knee Tarantula I met at the Museo de Bichos in Querètaro. Like something I’d only ever seen in Indiana Jones movies, I wasn’t quite prepared for how Samantha melted my heart. It was fascinating. One man’s private collection catalogs a 35-year entomology career with over 2,400 specimens worldwide. Plus, I love supporting small private museums like this.

And I’ll admit, Samantha was an angel. Sitting so quietly in my hands. So, of course, she was added to my travel journal because I would never want to forget that experience of handling a tarantula. It’s not something I do every day.

What Mexico is teaching me

Ever since getting this scratch map and journal, it has made a big impact on my life. Before, I loved living in Mexico. Now, I feel like a part of Mexico. Learning more about the beautiful Pueblos Mágicos, traditions, textiles, and history and visiting them has enriched my life.

This fabulous scratch map and journal are scratching my travel itch, my art itch and my Discover Mexico itch.

Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.

Exploring Guadalajara’s hidden speakeasies

By

Dawn Stoner

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November 17, 2024

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Nomu speakeasy in Guadalajara — From Prohibition vintage to modern hideaways, Guadalajara has a speakeasy for everyone. (Dawn Stoner)

Prohibition in the United States ended long ago, but nostalgia for that bygone era has revived speakeasy-style bars worldwide, and Guadalajara is no exception.

Modern speakeasies aren’t illegal, but they recreate the vibe of the old clandestine bars with discreet, low-lit spaces accessed via unmarked doors, back alleys and hidden staircases. Some up the ante further with secret passwords and reservations-only policies. The reward for intrepid visitors is an underground spot to relax and imbibe with like-minded souls. Below are five of my favorite Guadalajara speakeasies that are worth the trouble to find.

Búnker Brew Club

BBC speakeasy Guadalajara — (Bunker Brew Club)

If the idea of quaffing craft beer in a real bunker 10 meters underground dating back to World War II sounds cool, then Búnker Brew Club is the place for you.

Located in Zapopan’s charming Seattle neighborhood, BBC is known for its rotating selection of international craft brews from places including Belgium and California. The pub’s owners have an encyclopedic knowledge of beer and are happy to offer suggestions. For connoisseurs, I recommend ordering a flight of the bartender’s choosing.

Cool and dark, BBC is an especially good choice during one of Guadalajara’s diabolical spring heatwaves. You can forget about the suffocating heat when seated 45 feet below ground with a crisp pilsner in hand.

To find the bar, look for the pink sign that reads “Ceci” above an outdoor staircase, then descend four flights.

San Jorge 225, Colonia Seattle, 45150 Zapopan. Reservations required. Book via OpenTable.

Galgo Speakeasy

When you arrive, head through the lobby to a closed gate in back. If no one is there, ring the bell. Once you provide the password, the doorman will let you through. To enter the bar, pass through a frosted glass door that reads “Galgo Criminología,” like some old-timey detective agency.

Packed with a young, well-dressed crowd, Galgo feels like it’s been around forever. There are wingback leather chairs, a marble top bar, vintage books, a British telephone booth and Art Deco posters on the walls.

If the ambience harkens to a bygone era, Galgo’s music brings you back to the present. On the night we visited, remixed disco beats gave way to thumping house music as the night progressed.

Galgo’s stocked bar can handle most any request, but their custom cocktails are where it’s at. Most are tequila-based — this is Jalisco, after all — and served in vintage glassware with botanicals, fresh fruit and flowers. The Barragán and Apocalypto are standouts, and oh-so-Instagramable.

As an aside, if you’re hoping to chat with whoever accompanied you, consider arriving early. When the DJ takes over around 10:30 p.m., conversation becomes nearly impossible.

Avenida Pablo Neruda 3055, Colonia Providencia. Reservations by phone or DM. Password required. More information via Instagram.

PIMP

Unlike most speakeasies tucked into windowless back rooms and basements, PIMP occupies the floor above a Tuscan restaurant, Osteria 10.

To enter, ascend the wooden staircase next to the restaurant’s pizza oven. Once upstairs, open the door masquerading as a bookshelf, and… benvenuti!

For my money, this is the coolest spot to grab a cocktail in Colonia Americana. PIMP’s indoor-outdoor space overlooking the treetops is bathed in soft light and perfect on cool evenings.

This secret lair feels like your eccentric aunt’s apartment. Its shabby chic décor features faux Renaissance art, exposed brick walls and vintage chandeliers. Wingback chairs, mismatched sofas and puffy ottomans provide plenty of comfy gathering spots.

Unlike other speakeasies in town, PIMP’s music is Prohibition-era jazz and blues, and isn’t too loud for conversation. It may explain why this spot attracts a lot of couples.

Cocktails are straightforward and cheap at just 90 pesos each. PIMP also offers Bohemia beer. I suggest visiting on a weeknight, as the place gets packed on weekends.

Calle Manuel López Cotilla 1498-A, Lafayette, 44150 Guadalajara. No reservation or password required. More information via Instagram.

Fat Charlie

Some speakeasies should come with an experts only warning label. Nabbing a reservation at Fat Charlie took us a week and multiple inquiries via social media. For best results, use Facebook Messenger.

Finding the place was easier. When you arrive at the unmarked storefront, just walk through the black curtain with a red pig on it and knock. When the door opens, provide the correct password and you will be let inside.

Upon entering, be sure to say hello to the owner’s adorable side kick, a scruffy mutt named Jack who staff members refer to as the manager.

Once your eyes adjust to the low light, Fat Charlie offers guests a haven for a chill night out. The drinks menu includes all the usual suspects, but I’d skip the Negroni in favor of an innovative cocktail like No Rules. It blends cognac, berries, balsamic vinegar and mascarpone cream. After consuming one, you might want to skip dessert.

In addition to being a cool hangout, Fat Charlie hosts mixology classes for those looking to level up their cocktail game.

Calle Manuel López Cotilla 1940, Colonia Americana. No entry without the password. More information via Facebook.

Nomu

Nomu is a gorgeous, cozy, candlelit bar hiding in plain sight. You enter from inside a sleek Japanese restaurant called Honne via an unmarked door next to the sushi bar.

While dining at Honne, I didn’t even notice the door until someone exited through it. Its black tile façade matches the wall perfectly, rendering it invisible.

Nomu’s vibe is low-key and sophisticated, making it the perfect spot for a special date, secret rendezvous, or conversation with an old friend.

Their drinks menu features various concoctions with tequila, mezcal and raicilla, all derived from the agave plant. It’s also a great spot for fans of Japanese sake and whiskey. Like the décor and drinks, service at Nomu is also top-shelf.

While this upscale neighborhood isn’t popular with out-of-towners or expats, Nomu is a great option if you find yourself on the west side of Guadalajara for dinner or a concert at the 3 de Marzo stadium.

Avenida Naciones Unidas 4839, Int. 103, Jardines Universidad. No password or reservation required. More information via Instagram.

After discovering that life in Mexico was a lot more fun than working in corporate America, Dawn Stoner moved to Guadalajara in 2022, where she lives with her husband, two cats and Tapatío rescue dog. Her blog livewellmexico.com helps expats live their best life south of the border.

MND Perspectives: Will Mexico benefit from nearshoring?

By

MND Podcasts

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November 17, 2024

2

Shipping containers in a shipyard — With more than US $100 billion in announced investments still unrealized, nearshoring has yet to reach its full potential. (Shutterstock)

In this week’s exclusive, subscribers-only MND Perspectives podcast, Travis Bembenek, CEO of Mexico News Daily, examines the potential risks and rewards of nearshoring for Mexicans. While foreign direct investment generally leads to more jobs, there is a risk that Mexican companies could be displaced by highly competitive foreign firms

Should Mexico should aim for higher-value jobs in areas such as engineering, research, and management, rather than simply replicating the low-wage, low-skill model of maquiladoras? Will the influx of international companies rushing to nearshore in Mexico ultimately help Mexicans, or damage local economies and offer poorly-paid and undesirable jobs?

MND Perspectives: Will Mexico benefit from nearshoring?

Watch this video on YouTube

This podcast was produced using AI tools. All information collected and discussed in this episode was investigated, written and edited by human journalists. Compiled from Mexico News Daily articles by Travis Bembenek. Edited by Caitlin Cooper and Rose Eglhoff. Podcast produced by Chris Havler-Barrett.

State by plate: Baja California Sur seafood

By

Chris Sands

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November 17, 2024

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Baja California Sur seafood platters — Seafood of all types are a staple of Baja California Sur plates, with the small state having some of the nation's best clams, shrimp and fish offerings. (Villa del Palmar)

There’s a reason many tourists flock to Baja California Sur (BCS) to enjoy vacations on beautiful beaches in destinations like Los Cabos, Loreto, and La Paz. The state has more coastline than any other in Mexico and it’s not particularly close. In fact, between Baja California and BCS, the peninsula they share — the world’s second longest — makes up 38% of Mexico’s total coastline. BCS alone accounts for 22%.

Given this coastal abundance and easy access to the fruits of the sea in both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortés, it should come as no surprise that the cuisine of BCS is and has always been seafood-focused. That’s not to say there aren’t other foods of note. The state is famous for its chicken-stuffed tamales fajados; regional fruit-based specialties like mangate and dulce de pitahaya, made from ripe mangoes and dragon fruit, respectively; and its aphrodisiacal liqueur, Damiana, which is sourced from a native herb.

Seafood lovers rejoice, for you have found paradise. (Mike Bergmann/Unsplash)

But seafood is the culinary lodestar, and before the age of tourism, fishing accounted for much of the regional industry. It’s still practiced commercially, of course. For example, the Baja California peninsula provides the majority of abalone in Mexico, while BCS and Sinaloa harvest more than half the country’s clams.

Seafood dishes traditional to Baja California Sur

Simple recipes are the rule for tuna, marlin, totoaba, octopus, crab, shrimp, scallops, lobster, clams, abalone, snails and other salty fare. When you have ingredients this fresh, after all, why not let their flavors speak for themselves?

These frutas de mar all lend themselves readily to simple preparations. However, if BCS has a signature food, it is undoubtedly almejas chocolatas: chocolate clams in English, Megapitaria squalida scientifically speaking. These clams are named not for any chocolate-like sweetness but for the color of their shiny brown-hued shells, which serve as picturesque serving vessels at local restaurants. The meat of these clams is quite tender and exquisite, so much so that some locals prefer to eat them raw.

Almejas chocolatas get their name from the color of their shell, not from any rich sweetness. (Villa del Palmar)

The clams can be found buried in the sand on the ocean floor in bays around the state, including La Paz, Loreto, Magdalena, Ojo de Liebre and Santa Rosalía. As the clams burrow in shallow water, they’re typically fished by hand, not with nets.

How and where to best enjoy almejas chocolatas

Visitors will typically find chocolate clams served either tatemada style or “en escabeche.” The former preparation is taken from the Nahuatl word tlatemati, meaning to be roasted over a fire. It’s the local version of a clambake, with the clams placed upside down on the sand. They’re then covered in gravel with chamizo leaves before being set on fire and left to cook for at least 20 minutes. Once done the meat is usually popped into tortillas and served as tacos with a fresh salsa made from vinegar, mustard, mayo, salt, and pepper.

As for escabeche, this is a traditional method for pickling seafood, vegetables, or other ingredients in a briny, acidic marinade. For almejas chocolatas, the typical marinade consists of vinegar with ingredients like bay leaf, oregano, chile güero, carrots and zucchini. To make them yourself in time-honored BCS style, notes Visit Mexico, you need “to cook the vinegar and water with sautéed vegetables for five minutes, then remove the mixture from the heat and submerge the clams. The result is a dish bursting with flavor and perfect as an appetizer or a main course.”

These are the most common serving methods, but certainly not the only available preparations. Besides slurping them raw with a squeeze of lime, chocolate clams may be grilled, preferably with lime juice and hot sauce, made into ceviche or used as a shrimp replacement in a clam cocktail.

Restaurants throughout the state serve these beloved delicacies. But the most traditional place to enjoy them is Loreto, the first capital of California from 1697 to 1777, and still a destination of note in Baja California Sur. Each year in June, Loreto hosts its Festival de la Almeja Chocolata. However, for the past two years, the festival has proceeded without its star attraction because of sustainability measures, instead featuring other local cuisine and culture.

How almejas chocolatas are being protected to ensure sustainability

Despite its abundance, the Baja California peninsula has been plagued by overfishing offshore, some of it done legally, much of it illegally. However, the Mexican government has instituted temporary bans in some places to help protect and sustain some of these important regional products. That has certainly been the case with almejas chocolata. They’ve been banned seasonally in Magdalena and Almejas Bays on the Pacific Coast of BCS from September to December in recent years. Such temporary bans have also been instituted in Sinaloa, and of course in Loreto Bay, where a two-year ban was the reason it couldn’t be served at the annual festival in its honor. But with careful management, this local treasure should continue to be a staple of the local diet for centuries to come, just as it was in centuries past for early settlers, and millennia past for the peninsula’s Indigenous inhabitants.

Caribbean fishermen — (Martín Zentina/Cuartoscuro)

Traditional specialties to sample in Los Cabos

Yes, there are other seafood specialties besides chocolate clams worth trying, particularly in Los Cabos, the state’s most popular tourist destination. Sashimi made from locally caught yellowfin is outstanding. Smoked marlin tacos probably shouldn’t be served in Los Cabos due to the importance of marlin to local sportfishing, as well a s the emphasis on catch and release policies. However, once they’re at a restaurant, one might as well eat them. They’re a menu staple at some local taquerías and if you haven’t tried them before they’re quite delicious. The tostada version, with a topping of avocado, is likewise tasty.

Machaca is another Los Cabos favorite and a great option for those who don’t love seafood. The sun-dried beef is usually served for breakfast, in a burrito or plated with scrambled eggs, tomatoes, and green poblano chilies — choyero style, after the nickname for native residents, which is itself taken from the cholla cactus.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Know your Puerto Vallarta neighborhood: Cinco de Diciembre

By

Meagan Drillinger

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November 17, 2024

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Church of Nuestra Señora del Refugio in Cinco de Diciembre, Puerto Vallarta — Cinco de Diciembre is a charming neighborhood home to architecture, food and great beaches. (Catedraleseiglesias.com/CC BY 2.0)

Cinco de Diciembre may just be Puerto Vallarta’s best-kept secret. Every time I walk the bougainvillea-draped sidewalks, I’m reminded why this neighborhood is one of my favorites. Not only is it beautiful and historic, with cobblestone streets that climb the hillsides and a fantastic beachfront location, it’s also a harmonious blend of locals, expats and in-the-know tourists, creating an authentic, eclectic energy.

Strolling the streets, you’ll encounter markets, mom-and-pop eateries, stylish cocktail bars and sweeping views of the Pacific, all in one scenic neighborhood. If you want to know how to make the most out of this part of town, read on for my insider’s guide to Puerto Vallarta’s Cinco de Diciembre neighborhood.

Ocho Tostadas in Puerto Vallarta — Ocho Tostadas, essential eating for seafood lovers in Puerto Vallarta. (Tomi C / TripAdvisor)

Where to eat in Cinco de Diciembre

Cinco de Diciembre is where Puerto Vallarta’s food scene shines, boasting a mix of classic Mexican and innovative seafood spots. First up, Ocho Tostadas is a must for seafood lovers. Think fresh ceviche, smoky grilled octopus and shrimp tostadas with a view of the water. Then there’s El Andariego, a neighborhood institution known for its colorful décor, hearty breakfasts and the best chilaquiles around. For those beachside cravings, Barracuda serves up excellent fish tacos and fresh seafood in a casual, sand-between-your-toes setting.

But Cinco de Diciembre isn’t just for seafood fanatics. Carnivores should make a pilgrimage to El Carboncito for al pastor tacos cooked on a traditional trompo spit. At Birrieria y Taqueria Liz, the birria is heavenly — trust me, a plate here will set you up right for a day of exploring. And don’t even get me started on Pollo Feliz. Yes, it’s a chain, but there’s a reason locals rave about it. They do rotisserie chicken so tender and flavorful, complete with fresh, warm tortillas and a fresh tomato salsa.

For something a little more international, La Traviata offers Italian favorites with a front-row sunset view. Perfect for a romantic dinner, this spot’s pizzas and pastas are just as memorable as the view. If you’re after a truly local experience, check out Tacon de Marlin for some of the freshest and heartiest seafood tacos around — definitely a place for seafood enthusiasts. And don’t leave without indulging in a churro or three at Julio’s Churros, where these crispy, cinnamon-dusted treats are made fresh and warm.

Where to drink in Cinco de Diciembre

Cinco de Diciembre has no shortage of places to enjoy a drink, from laid-back beach bars to craft cocktail dens. El Solar is my personal favorite for a drink with a view. This beachfront bar is a hit with locals and travelers alike, serving up ice-cold beers, cocktails and super fresh tuna poke right on the sand. Watching the sunset here with a margarita in hand is a quintessential Puerto Vallarta experience.

A group of people toasts around a table at El Tasting Room in Puerto Vallarta's Cinco de Diciembre neighborhood — El Tasting Room offers private tasting experiences for those who want to learn more about Mexico’s most famous spirits. (El Tasting Room)

For another casual experience, The Gusto Lounge serves cold beer and cocktails in a relaxed setting. And for true cocktail aficionados, El Tasting Room Bar & Liquor Store is a fantastic find. Not only do they serve a carefully curated selection of artisanal tequila and mezcal, but you can also order beautiful cocktails and buy a variety of local and international spirits— a great spot for anyone who takes their mixology seriously.

What to do in Cinco de Diciembre

Cinco de Diciembre’s beaches might be rockier than the sandy stretches of Los Muertos Beach to the south, but that doesn’t stop people from flocking to the water here. You’ll find a mix of locals and tourists lounging at Mango’s Beach Club, a casual spot where you can grab a beach chair, order a margarita and enjoy the sun. It’s not the softest sand, but the laid-back vibe more than makes up for it.

Humpbacks nurse their young in the Bay of Banderas during the winter. (Explora Vallarta)

If you’re up for an adventure, plenty of water sports await along this stretch. Jet skiing is popular here and you can rent one for a quick thrill zipping along the waves of the Pacific. Or if you’re more in the mood to relax, charter a boat for a day trip and explore the stunning Banderas Bay. It’s a fantastic way to see the coast, with a chance to spot dolphins and, if you’re lucky, humpback whales during the right season.

Where to stay in Cinco de Diciembre

Finding a place to stay in Cinco de Diciembre is easy, with options ranging from luxury hotels to charming boutique spots. Villa Premiere Boutique Hotel & Romantic Getaway is one of my top picks for its adults-only policy and a serene pool area overlooking the ocean. It’s the ultimate spot for unwinding after a day of exploring.

If you’re looking for a more family-friendly stay, Buenaventura Grand Hotel offers a little bit of everything, from pools to spa treatments and is perfectly located right on the beach. Meanwhile, Hotel Grand Paramar offers modern, spacious suites that feel more like apartments — ideal for extended stays or if you’re traveling with family. Lastly, Hotel Suites Nadia Puerto Vallarta is a hidden gem, especially for those who love a rooftop pool. The views here are mesmerizing, giving you a fantastic perspective of the city and ocean while you take a dip.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

Siemens shows how industry can help solve Mexico’s water and energy challenges: A perspective from our CEO

By

Travis Bembenek

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November 16, 2024

6

Young Siemens Mexico employees smile and pose for a photo with a tank full of experimentally grown lettuce — Siemens Mexico is working to develop technology related to intelligent farming and water usage monitoring, among many other projects. (Siemens México y Centroamérica/Facebook)

Hardly a day goes by without a business or trade leader referencing the importance of Mexico improving in the areas of water, energy and education in order to better realize the country’s nearshoring potential. The team at Mexico News Daily is committed to increasing coverage in each of these areas and have recently launched the “Water in Mexico” series to focus on what is being done to help solve the many problems that the country has in this area.

Both energy and education are equally unique issues as well that need significant and urgent attention nationwide. To better understand what is being done and learn from one of the leading companies in the world in both water and energy, I recently met with the CEO of Siemens’ Mexico, Central America and Caribbean business, Alejandro Preinfalk. This year Siemens is celebrating 130 years since the German company began doing business in Mexico. One of the first projects completed by Siemens that year, 1894, was the illumination of the famous Paseo de la Reforma street in central Mexico City — so needless to say, the company has a bit of experience in the area of energy in Mexico.

A portrait of Siemens Mexico CEO Alejandro Preinfalk — Alejandro Preinfalk, CEO of Siemens Mexico, Central America and Caribbean. (Courtesy of Alejandro Preinfalk)

Fast forward to the present day, and Siemens now has over 7,000 employees in the country including over 1,000 new hires just this year. The company has opened three new factories this year in the cities of Ciudad Juárez, Querétaro and Monterrey, bringing them to a total of six plants in the country. Siemens also has two R&D centers in Monterrey and Querétaro and a distribution center in Guadalajara.

The company is proud of the fact that it is now sourcing 50% of its products locally in Mexico — a figure that has increased and will continue to do so. Siemens estimates that for every one of its employees in Mexico, an additional 10 indirect jobs have been created with suppliers in Mexico to support its business. Approximately half of Siemens Mexico production is for local use, while the other half is for export. This is a higher percentage of local use than many companies I talk to, who export a much higher percentage of production.

Siemens has doubled their Mexico revenue in just the past four years. When I told Mr. Preinfalk that I often hear doubts about nearshoring’s impact on Mexico from (non-business) thought leaders and economists, he was adamant that “nearshoring is real, it’s happening.”

He also mentioned that “expectations management” was important as the full impact of nearshoring on the country will take time yet. The record low vacancy in many industrial parks throughout the country, he noted, is evidence of what is yet to come.

Aerial view of a Saltillo, Mexico industrial park — Industrial parks across Mexico are seeing record low levels of vacancy, Siemens CEO Alejandro Preinfalk said. (OCV Saltillo)

Two of the major focus areas that the company is focused on in Mexico are automation/digitalization and electrification, both of which have a significant impact in the water and energy industries. A few examples of the many projects and technologies that the company is working on include:

Detecting leakages in the water distribution network
Conserving energy of pumps
Remote flow meters to monitor and control water usage
Intelligent farming
Creating digital twins to find ways to optimize water and energy usage

Mr. Preinfalk talked at length and with great pride about the work being done by the company in the area of training and education. Siemens has helped over 1 million students in Mexico through its work to help strengthen science and technology (STEM) education in Mexican schools, especially with young girls. The company is now at a level of 50% women in its new hires nationwide. The company has trained over 30,000 students, educators and future industry professionals nationwide in just the past two years on industrial software and technologies.

He also talked about an initiative called “Mexico 4.0 Commission: Innovation and Industrial Digitalization,” in which Siemens has collaborated with the Confederation of Industrial Chambers of the United Mexican States (Concamin). This collaboration led to the development of an app that allows companies to do “digital maturity assessments” to help identify gaps and build a plan to better integrate digitization into its operations.

It’s no secret that Mexico faces important challenges in the areas of water, energy and workforce education and preparation. I often hear thought leaders and columnists lamenting the seemingly insurmountable challenges and the slow pace of improvement. It is exciting and inspirational to learn what companies like Siemens are doing in Mexico to help solve the challenges and doing so in a way that takes into account the importance of helping to make a positive impact in the education of the country’s current and future workforce.

It’s no surprise to me that Siemens has been able to double its business in Mexico in just the past 4 years, given its focus on solving key challenges facing the country and investments in its people. Mexico needs them to continue to be successful and continue to invest in workforce development. The work the company is doing and the impact it is having are hugely important for the future of Mexico.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

How much water do Los Cabos golf courses actually use?

By

Chris Sands

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November 16, 2024

1

Is operating a golf course in a desert good for the environment? The answer is much more complicated than you might think. (Solmar Golf Links)

The three most common criticisms of golf courses are that they’re elitist, wasteful of water, and destructive to wildlife habitats. In Los Cabos, where most courses cost upwards of $200 per round, and some more than double that, the charge of elitism is hard to refute. Very few locals can afford to play any of the 18 courses currently open; and since many are private — with tee times only available to resort guests or homeowners in gated communities — it’s often a moot point.

Of course, it’s also true that tourism and real estate are tent poles of the Los Cabos economy and that golf courses provide many good-paying jobs to locals. But these courses are typically exclusive. That’s not in dispute.

Golf courses in Los Cabos can use vast amounts of precious water, a scare commodity in the desert landscape. (TPC Danzante Golf Resort)

Los Cabos golf courses are often wildlife-friendly

The other two criticisms are more complicated, and one (the threat to wildlife habitats) has been shown in some case studies to be misguided. A recent USGA article on the environmental benefits of golf cites three studies that support the idea that golf courses provide healthy habitats for endangered species. So golf courses generally aren’t harmful to wildlife. Quite the contrary, they’re often wildlife sanctuaries. It makes sense if you think about it. As urban developments increase, the animals displaced naturally seek out the few available areas with greenery, foliage, and wide-open spaces.

Solmar Golf Links in Los Cabos qualified as a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary in 2021, making it one of only 900 of the over 38,000 golf courses worldwide to have received environmental certification from Audubon International (Twin Dolphin Golf Club is the only other in Los Cabos). Golfers on both these courses can’t help but notice the thriving wildlife. In fact, in Audubon International’s 2024 BioBlitz, a “free species-counting competition designed to showcase the environmental value of the natural habitats found on golf courses,” Twin Dolphin Golf Club was a winner, with a photo capturing a bee cocoon — many bee species are threatened worldwide — flourishing in one of its trees. Wildlife also abounds on Solmar Golf Links, from lizards and correcaminos (roadrunners) to seasonal sightings of whales transiting just offshore.

That’s not to say the other 16 Los Cabos courses aren’t wildlife-friendly. But there are local courses that take sustainability to another level with habitat protection, just as there are when it comes to water use.

A photo of a bee and bee cocoon at Twin Dolphin was a winner at the 2024 BioBlitz species counting competition put on by Audubon International. (Audubon International)

Why water use on Los Cabos courses more complicated than you think

Yes, golf courses do use a lot of water for irrigation. However, many course superintendents care about environmental impacts and are trying to find new ways to reduce water use. Over the past two decades, they’ve proven to be very successful at doing so. In the U.S., for example, water use by golf courses has declined by 29% since 2005.

How has this been accomplished? One way is to strategically reduce areas that need to be irrigated to conserve water, a practice that Solmar Golf Links has implemented, as has its Cabo San Lucas neighbor Quivira Golf Club. Another is to install grasses for fairways and greens that aren’t as water-intensive. In a recent article in Forbes, course architect Jan Bel Jan discussed one of the projects she was proudest to have been part of, the opening of the Tom Fazio-designed Old Collier Golf Club in Naples, Florida in 2001. “It was the first course that used the new Seashore Paspalum turf type and that was important because it could tolerate up to 36,000 parts per million salt. So we were able to grow a golf course using salt water right out of the ocean.”

Varieties of seashore paspalum have since been installed at several Los Cabos golf courses, including Club Campestre, Puerto Los Cabos, Solmar Golf Links, Quivira Golf Club, and both El Cardonal and the Dunes Course at Diamante. These paspalum varieties are salt-tolerant, require fewer chemicals and pesticides, and can be irrigated with greywater (effluent water that is treated and disinfected). Quivira, for example, has its own wastewater treatment plant that can treat and disinfect sewage from nearby residents in Cabo San Lucas for irrigation purposes, noted the course’s Director of Golf Antonio Reynante in a 2024 issue of Golf Business Magazine. Quivira irrigates fairways according to how much greywater is available, a sustainability-friendly plan that also provides an enormous benefit in terms of no-cost service to the city. Greens, meanwhile, are watered from retention lakes.

Correcaminos (or roadrunners) are among the wildlife species most commonly seen at Los Cabos courses like Twin Dolphin Golf Club. (Maravilla Los Cabos)

The case for greater oversight of golf course water use in Los Cabos

So some responsibly managed golf courses in Los Cabos like Solmar Golf Links and Quivira Golf Club exist as do proven pathways to sustainability. But these sustainable practices haven’t been implemented at all local courses and there are lots of them: 18, as previously noted, with five more in development.

To put this in perspective, upkeep for each layout necessitates 2,300 cubic meters of water per day on average – the equivalent of over 600,000 gallons and enough to satisfy the daily needs of 8,000 residents, per the 2019 article “A critical geography approach to land and water use in the tourist economy in Los Cabos, Baja California Sur, Mexico” published in the Journal of Land Use Science by authors Juan Carlos Graciano, Manuel Ángeles, and Alba E. Gámez.

That’s for one course. Multiply that by the 23 courses expected to be open within the next couple of years and the numbers are staggering. You’re talking about enough water to service 184,000 people per day — more than half the current population of Los Cabos. Instead, it’s being diverted to golf courses enjoyed by a small group of affluent people, many of whom don’t live here.

Again, not all of these golf courses are using municipal water sources. So that number is likely inflated. Still, it’s obvious why so many people are upset about this seemingly frivolous use of such a critical resource; especially since Los Cabos is already operating at a water deficit as local aquifers aren’t recharged fast enough to keep up with demand. At the very least, water consumption from local golf courses should probably be tracked and reported, with some governmental oversight.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

What it’s like raising a bilingual, bicultural kid in Mexico

By

Sarah DeVries

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November 16, 2024

6

Lisa DeVries — Baby Lisa. (All photos by Sarah DeVries)

Today, I pick up my 10-year-old daughter Lisa from her dad’s, and I’m excited. I miss her. Our conviviencia (custody) schedule means we each get her for half the week and divvy up holidays. While having those days to basically be a childless adult helps me get a lot of work done, I miss having her around. She’s my heart. Raising a Mexican-American child is quite common in the U.S., but what about raising an American-Mexican kid in Mexico? Well, it’s a whole different adventure.

Like any proud mom, I talk about my kid a lot. And like any tired sociologist, I talk about the difficult circumstances surrounding motherhood a lot. Work is not a walk in the park, and stereotypes paired with impossible standards make it easy to feel judged and insufficient.

But that’s motherhood everywhere, right? At least here, the figure of the mother is revered.

Mi chiquitita

Lisa was born here in Xalapa, in a private hospital. She has always lived in Mexico, though we travel to the US once a year or so to visit family. She is fully bilingual and doesn’t have an accent in either language.

The beginning wasn’t easy. Are any births easy? Ours seemed like an especially close call, though: she came a month early through an emergency cesarean section in which we both made it out alive by the skin of our respective teeth. She was very tiny, but thankfully, she was otherwise healthy.

After she was born, I had a lot of help. This is good, because I had to keep working part-time even though I had an infant. I worked online then, and did not have benefits. Sadly for all of us, she was an incredibly unhappy baby. She cried constantly and hardly slept. “Colic,” her pediatrician said.

We’d go home with special diets for me and little gotas (medicine to be administered in drops) for her tummy. The only thing that really helped, though, was growing up. She started speaking in both languages after her first year, and the more she could communicate, the happier she seemed.

My own theory is that she’s an old, old soul. Sure she was on the verge of Nirvana, she was instead born again. I’d be pissed, too.

Los Amiguitos

In the end, she did grow up, and she did stop crying. She made friends. Then the pandemic came and she was fairly isolated, like most of her peers, from about age six to eight. She made friends again, but awkwardly, like most kids did after not hanging out with each other for so long.

She loved both sides of her family, even though she only saw the U.S. side once in a while.

All of her friendships here, of course, have been and continue to be in Spanish. But when she tells me about her friends, it’s always in English. We’ve only ever spoken English together, even if we’re with other people. This doesn’t mean we have long conversations in front of others, of course. “Please take your plate to the sink.” “Where are your shoes?” That kind of thing.

When she’s with several children, often at my house, I’ll speak in Spanish if I need to give everyone instructions. I won’t lie, I don’t think any of her friends think of me as a “fun mom.” I’m strict and worry about them running on the stairs, and her closest friends have gotten used to my mini-lectures about safety.

I also cannot stand the loud, screechy yelling. I swear that wasn’t a thing” when I was a kid! Lisa doesn’t do it because I nipped it in the bud the first time she tried, but her friends? Well, they get lectured about it by their friend’s mom with a weird accent. And if there’s anything a kid loves, it’s a lecture.

But as long as I don’t scold her in front of anyone, she doesn’t seem embarrassed to communicate with me in front of others.

When we go to the U.S., making friends with other kids is slightly more awkward. Though her English is perfect, it took her a while to get used to how other kids spoke English. For a while, she must have thought English was a language only spoken by her and the adults in her family.

A little different

Though she’s lived here her whole life, it’s clear that she feels different than the other kids. But Lisa has something that actually does make her different: a foreign mother and an extra language spoken at home.

She’s a little shy, and she doesn’t like receiving too much attention; public speaking terrifies her, but she’s really good at it. I often wonder about this. Is she shy because she feels different, or is it simply her temperament? Or could it just be an extended kind of stage-fright that she’ll get over with age?

In any case, being shy is too bad because attention is just what she gets. She’s very pretty — takes after her mother, naturally — and she’s developing an odd fashion sense as she makes her way into the tween years. Dark colors and bow ties rule her ideal wardrobe; I donated everything in “girl colors” long ago. I myself am very girly, and am making a point to reinforce the idea that femininity is not a synonym for weakness or superficiality.

So I don’t know if her serious personality is learned or innate. I don’t know the degree to which her feelings of being different are derived from being the daughter of a foreigner and of speaking a different language.

I don’t know if she will reject one or the other cultures when she’s older; I hope not.

She may feel different, but I’ve known no one here or there to reject her. She is loved and, thankfully, understood and accepted.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, https://sarahedevries.substack.com/

Taste of Mexico: Mamey

By

María Meléndez

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November 16, 2024

1

Several pieces of mamey, a Mexican favorite fruit. — Delicious, right? But why is mamey a typical taste of Mexico? (Tropical Sugar Fruit)

Mamey, a fruit native to Mexico and Central America and a distant cousin of the chicozapote, has been a part of our history and culture since pre-Columbia times. The Maya and the peoples of central Mexico saw mamey as a symbol of fertility and abundance. Truth be told, our ancestors associated fertility with many elements of nature. One day, in a more R-rated article, I’ll provide a detailed explanation of the symbolism surrounding mamey — but you can probably guess why.

It’s easy to understand why this fruit was regarded as auspicious. The mamey features a vibrant reddish-orange color, contains a large brown seed at its center and is one of the few fruits whose pulp and seed are both usable.

Mamey fruit — Its brown, leathery skin loses the mamey points for presentation, but a ripe one is a little slice of heaven. (Suriel Ramzal/Shutterstock)

The pulp closely resembles that of papaya or mango, featuring a soft and creamy texture. Its flavor is reminiscent of sweet pumpkin with a hint of vanilla, and tastes almost as if it were blended with peach. If you enjoy sweet flavors, you’ll definitely love it!

What to do with a Mamey

Cut the fruit in half with a knife and enjoy the creamy pulp with a spoon. Since it’s pie season, we can also make a delicious mamey pie. Here’s a recipe to give your Thanksgiving a Mexican twist.

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Baked mamey Pie

Here’s a recipe for a delicious baked mamey pie. This version is smooth and creamy, with a tropical flavor that’s sure to please everyone.

Ingredients

1 pie crust (you can make it with crushed Marias cookies and butter or use a store-bought crust)
1 large mamey
1 can of sweetened condensed milk (approximately 14 oz)
3 eggs
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350 F (180 C).
In a mixing bowl, combine 200 grams of crushed Maria cookies with 100 grams of melted butter. Press this mixture firmly into the bottom and sides of a pie pan. Bake the crust for 10 minutes, then remove it from the oven and let it cool slightly.
In a blender, add the mamey pulp, condensed milk, eggs, heavy cream, vanilla extract and cinnamon. Blend until the mixture is smooth and homogenous.
Carefully pour the mamey mixture over the baked crust.
Bake: Place the pie in the oven and bake at 350 F (180 C) for about 45-50 minutes, or until the filling is firm and lightly golden on top. To check for doneness, insert a toothpick into the center; it should come out clean or with a few moist crumbs.
Allow the pie to cool at room temperature, then refrigerate it for at least 2 hours before serving to achieve a firmer texture.
Just before serving, you can top the pie with whipped cream or a sprinkle of cinnamon. Buen provecho!

As you enjoy your delicious pie, here are some fun facts you can share with your guests:

Did you know that in Mexico, people often refer to someone who is very muscular as “mamey”? For example, you might hear someone say, “Ya se puso bien mamey” in reference to another person. This is due to the similarity between the word mamey and the word “mamado,” slang for a musucular person.
The mamey seed is quite versatile. Oils and ointments made from the seed can help keep hair shiny, strong and free of split ends. Additionally, a face mask made from the seed dries out pimples and leaves the skin feeling as soft as a baby’s.
Vitamin A found in mamey helps keep your skin radiant.
In Oaxaca, the toasted and ground mamey seed is mixed with cacao nibs, corn and cacao flower to create a traditional drink called tejate.
If you have a stomach ache, a little mamey can help relieve it due to its high fiber content and other substances that promote good digestive health.
The rubbery latex produced by the mamey tree is an effective insecticide and mosquito repellent.

Now that you know about mamey, did you enjoy its taste? Did you find it exotic, or are there other Mexican fruits and vegetables you consider way more exotic?

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.