Your whitexican friends aren't just stunting your Spanish, they're also warping your view of Mexico, writes Sarah DeVries. (Vitaly Gariev/Unsplash)
A good friend of mine in Xalapa, a fellow paisano, has been frustrated with how long it’s taking her to learn Spanish.
“Well, you’ve got to make friends with Mexicans who don’t speak English!” I say. I’m mostly teasing, but it’s also true. If people are excited about speaking English with you, you’re just not going to learn Spanish too fast. The point is to talk to people who don’t speak your language so that you have no choice but to put yourself through the long and necessary humiliation of learning the new one.
Getting along with your in-laws in Mexico is an ancient art to be mastered by foreigners. (Andrea Piacquadio/Pexels)
Now, I don’t blame my friend for being friends with English speakers. She is lovely and worth getting to know. People sense this, so they are willing to use their second language in order to accomplish it, and I’m sure they’re glad they did.
But when most of your Mexican friends are pretty good English speakers, it limits your ability and your will to practice Spanish.
Something less discussed? It limits your ability to get to know large swaths of the culture, and public sentiment, too. Sure, your Mexican friends might tell you — in perfect English — all about “typical Mexican life.” I see evidence of this in the comments section often. “Well, my neighbor who is Mexican says that everyone in Mexico knows [former president] AMLO is just as bad as the rest!”
Not to insult anyone’s neighbor, but unless they happen to be a statistician, that is actually not knowledge that can be reliably trusted. I’m not saying their opinions are wrong. I’m just saying that their opinions are opinions and not necessarily indicative of a homogenous Mexican belief about something. This is a diverse place, and Mexicans who speak perfect English are the outliers, not the norm.
Most Mexicans who speak English are, at least by Mexican standards, fairly well off. Though I can’t speak for major tourist destinations, I know that in much of Mexico, one’s ability to learn to speak English fluently in public schools is pretty close to nil. This isn’t an insult to Mexican public schools. U.S. students mostly don’t learn other languages in their schools fluently,either.
That’s because it takes a lot to learn to get by in a language, and so much more to get fluent in a language. I myself was incredibly motivated studying Spanish in college, and took two years of steady classes, determined to master Spanish.
Spanish classes sometimes aren’t the answer. (walls.io/Unsplash)
Was I able to utter a single coherent sentence once I got to Mexico? Ha. Ha ha. No. The answer is a resounding no. The only reason my Spanish is as good as it is is because I had the level of privilege necessary to study abroad. I didn’t have to work or earn money; my only “job” was to participate in the program that had been set up specifically for that purpose. I lived with host families who didn’t speak English. I went to school with people who didn’t speak English. I had to get all the things done I wanted to do — you guessed it — with people who didn’t speak English.
So now let’s think about this going the other way. Most English teachers in public schools in Mexico are not native English speakers. That doesn’t mean they can’t be good teachers, of course, but Mexican public schools are by no means bilingual schools.
Bilingual schools are invariably private, and only about 10-15% of students can afford to attend private school, which, importantly, are not necessarily schools in which students learn English. The kids in my daughter’s private school, for example, take English every year. Even so, most of them are in even worse shape linguistically than I was when I first arrived in Mexico. This is fine, honestly. None of us are sending our kids to this school because we want them to become fluent in English. If that were the goal, they’d be at the truly bilingual American school.
And if a private school is bilingual, it’s more expensive. If it’s bilingual and kids graduate from it actually being able to functionally speak English, it’s likely that it’s the most expensive school in town.
Conclusion? The Mexicans you know who speak perfect English — again, I’m exempting tourist areas in which I’ve never lived because I simply don’t know — are mostly from elite families. As a former English teacher for many years to students of all ages, I feel pretty confident in this assertion.
Why? Well, firstly, Learning to speak another language naturally is easiest when we’re children because of how our brains develop. And even so, it takes work. If someone is speaking their second language fluently, they almost certainly learned it as a child. Secondly, It is hard, hard, hard to learn a second language as an adult. Even when adults are extremely motivated, it’s more work once our brains are “set.” Most adults also have things they need to do besides learn a new language.
Without full focused immersion, even getting to a functional level in which you can both understand others and be understood is an uphill battle. I say “focused” because it’s possible to be immersed and still not learn a whole lot because you’re, say, working two jobs to send money back home to your family.
And look: I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with elite families. We all do everything we can for our children, and if we can give them the gift of learning a very useful language, of course we will. It would be ridiculous not to!
Still, I’d take it with a grain of salt when they assure you what “all Mexicans” are like or believe. If you’re richer than 90% of the population and have been afforded all the privileges that come with it, then by definition, you do not live like an “average Mexican.”
The conclusion I want people to draw from this is not that they shouldn’t make friends with people who are well off or who speak fluent English. Lots and lots of people are worth making friends with, and the language you do it in is not the most relevant thing.
But if you really want to learn Spanish, try seeking out people who don’t speak your language. You might even meet someonein the 70% of citizenswho think Claudia’s doing a good job.
President Sheinbaum recognizes a reporter during her Friday mañanera, in which she heard a report from her Foreign Relations Minister Juan Ramón de la Fuente on abuse of Mexicans in the U.S. detention facility for migrants known as Älligator Alcatraz.
(PresidenciaCuartoscuro.com)
At the start of her Friday morning press conference, President Claudia Sheinbaum noted that the day she was speaking, Sept. 19, was the 40th anniversary of the 1985 earthquake that devastated Mexico City and the eighth anniversary of the 2017 Puebla earthquake that claimed hundreds of lives in the capital and other parts of central Mexico
“Our affection, a hug, to all those who lost a family member in the earthquakes of ’85 and ’17,” she said.
The president began her mañanera by commemorating the victims of the earthquakes on this date in 1985 and 2017, and later led a flag-raising ceremony in their honor. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro.com)
Sheinbaum also noted that an earthquake drill would take place at midday Friday.
Foreign minister: Mexicans detained at Alligator Alcatraz have reported mistreatment
Foreign Affairs Minister Juan Ramón de la Fuente told reporters that Mexican consular officials have met with a total of 198 Mexicans who have been detained at Alligator Alcatraz, an immigration detention facility in south Florida.
“That doesn’t mean that they’re still there,” he said, explaining that detainees usually only spend a “brief” time at the recently opened but already notorious facility.
“The numbers change every day, a lot of people come and go,” De la Fuente said.
Foreign Relations Minister Juan Ramón de la Fuente, reported that Mexican officials had talked to 198 Mexicans interned in Alligator Alcatraz, with many reporting abusive treatment. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro.com)
The foreign minister said that a “good number” of Mexicans who were detained at Alligator Alcatraz decided to return to Mexico, while others were transferred to other detention centers in the United States.
Asked whether any of the 198 Mexicans detained at the facility had reported violations of their human rights, De la Fuente said that Mexican officials have registered cases of “malos tratos” — mistreatment or abuse.
“All that is being recorded, and that’s where legal advice comes in,” he said.
De la Fuente didn’t specify the kind of mistreatment Mexicans have reported suffering at Alligator Alcatraz.
In July, the Associated Press reported that “at the brand new Everglades immigration detention center that officials have dubbed ‘Alligator Alcatraz,’ people held there say worms turn up in the food.”
“Toilets don’t flush, flooding floors with fecal waste, and mosquitoes and other insects are everywhere,” the news agency reported.
Abandonment of babies, a growing problem in Mexico
“Are you analyzing this situation?” asked the reporter. “… Have you detected anything [that explains] … why this phenomenon is occurring more and more frequently?”
Sheinbaum pointed out that state authorities are responsible for responding to and investigating such cases.
“That doesn’t mean that we’re not concerned or dealing with the situation,” she said.
Sheinbaum also mentioned Friday morning that later in the day a nationwide disaster simulation would take place. Here, UNAM Rector Leonardo Lomelí Vanegas oversees an evacuation on campus during the earthquake drill. (UNAM/Cuartoscuro)
“But who has the legal responsibility to attend to the baby, the infant, who has been abandoned are the state Attorney General’s Offices and also the state DIF family service agencies,” Sheinbaum said.
“The national DIF organizes and coordinates all the work of the DIF agencies in each of the federal entities,” she added.
Asked whether anything would be done to “prevent these kinds of situations,” Sheinbaum said that the Ministry of Women, in collaboration with the IMSS Bienestar health care agency, has a program designed to assist teenage girls and young women who are pregnant and who may be at risk of abandoning their baby.
In some cases, young mothers and fathers “don’t have the possibility of looking after the baby and unfortunately choose a situation of this type,” she said.
Sheinbaum defends Morena’s top senator
A reporter asked the president whether Senator Adán Augusto López Hernández’s leadership of the Morena party in the Senate is “sustainable” given the accusations faced by the man who served as his security minister when he was governor of Tabasco.
Sheinbaum pointed out that López Hernández, who relinquished his position as governor to serve as federal interior minister between 2021 and 2023, doesn’t currently face any criminal charges.
“There is nothing, at this time, that incriminates him,” she said.
The new Lego collection features two models with Day of the Dead themes — the Lego Skull and the Lego Altar. (@Michoacán/X)
Lego has launched a new edition based on one of Mexico’s most important celebrations, the Day of the Dead.
The famous toy brand unveiled the new set this week in advance of the famous Nov. 1 and Nov. 2 holidays that commemorate the departed, a tradition that dates back to pre-Hispanic times in Mexico and has spread to various parts of the world.
Last year, the Nuevo León state Culture Ministry got a jump on Lego’s idea by having a Day of the Dead-style skull assembled from 108,000 Lego pieces. (Nuevo León Culture Ministry)
The new Lego collection features two models — the Lego Skull and the Lego Altar — contained in a single piece. The set includes several elements that are representative of the Mexican observances, including marigolds (cempasúchil),papel picado (cut paper banners) and candles.
The buildable set — comprising 231 pieces — measures approximately 9 cm in height, 8 cm in width and 10 cm in depth. Its two sides feature the form of a sugar skull on one side and an altar to the dead on the other, using a range of seasonal colors.
The Bricks Up website (an online community for Lego enthusiasts) describes the set as having “a plain white skull … with large open eyes, a small triangular nose and more white around its teeth.”
The color is introduced with a variety of flowers that can be placed on showing studs located on the brick-built skull. On the other side, the color is provided by a floral arch display and flowers in mini-Lego vases.
The set also features tiles resembling items traditionally placed on a Day of the Dead altar such as papel picado, photographs of pets, candles and flowers. There are also models of food and drink, including a chicken leg, and something akin to pan de muerto.
The newspaper Informador describes the set as “an amazing and affordable ornament for all individuals and families who regularly collect and build Lego pieces.”
The official price of the Day of the Dead collection is listed on the Lego website as 349 pesos in Mexico and US $19.99 in the United States and is available for purchase online.
The birth was a milestone for the Guadalajara biologists who are struggling to save the casquito de Vallarta, of which there are only 300-500 left. (University of Guadalajara)
The Guadalajara Zoo has scored a conservation victory by breeding the world’s smallest turtle in captivity for the first time.
In late August, the zoo announced the birth of a baby Vallarta mud turtle, a recently discovered species popularly known as casquito de Vallarta. The birth had occurred nearly two months earlier, on June 30.
AFP’s Ulises Ruiz photographs a Vallarta mud turtle – considered the smallest turtle in the world – after Mexico’s Guadalajara Zoo achieved the first birth of the reptile in captivity.
The Vallarta mud turtle is threatened by illegal trafficking, severe habitat loss and is… pic.twitter.com/lzUc0lbXnv
The hatchling weighed just 2.8 grams and was only 2 centimeters long, about the width of an adult human thumb.
This species of endangered turtle, Kinosternon vogti, was discovered in 2018 and is found near Puerto Vallarta along the wetlands of the Ameca River, a tributary that divides the western Mexican states of Nayarit and Jalisco.
Only about 300 to 500 remain, according to scientists’ estimates, making it critically endangered.
The casquito turtle is distinguished by its small size, with adults reaching just 10.2 centimeters (4 inches) in length. Males have a characteristic yellow spot on their noses.
The casquito hatchling was 2 cm long at birth, while adults grow only to 10.2 centimeters (4 inches) in length. Their tiny size makes them attractive to animal smugglers. (University of Guadalajara)
As the world’s smallest turtle, the species has become a target for illegal trafficking, increasing its risk of extinction.
Moreover, a significant number of Vallarta mud turtles have died off due to urban expansion around Puerto Vallarta, said biologist Ricardo Dávalos, head of the Guadalajara Zoo’s reptile-amphibian house.
“If we add to that the fact that it’s a rare species, it becomes even more attractive to traffickers,” he added. “We know that these animals are already being trafficked in Japan, China and Korea.”
Two years ago, the Guadalajara Zoo received 37 turtles confiscated by the Ministry of Environment and Natural Resources (Semarnat), an allotment that included nine fertile females.
Dávalos said that he and his team managed to mate some casquito pairs that live in a part of the herpetarium that has conditions similar to their natural habitat. The female turtles laid some eggs, which were incubated under strict temperature and humidity controls.
One baby — nicknamed “Crumb” for his diminutive size — hatched. Not all eggs have survived during this process, but six more are currently developing in the incubator; the incubation period is 120 days.
The Guadalajara Zoo’s breeding program hopes to one day increase the wild population of these tiny reptiles. This summer’s birth marked the first milestone in that process.
“In the future, we can consider releasing some of these specimens [into the wild] once we have a safe place in Puerto Vallarta, a place where they’re not in danger,” Dávalos said.
The new line will connect Querétaro, the capital city of the state of the same name, with the Bajío cities of Apaseo el Grande, Celaya, Villagrán/Cortázar, Salamanca and Irapuato, all in the state of Guanajuato. (SICT)
Construction on the Querétaro-Irapuato trunk line formally began on Thursday, with officials waving starter’s flags at a ceremony in Apaseo el Grande, Guanajuato.
President Claudia Sheinbaum joined the dignitaries via video link from the National Palace, noting that “passenger train service is being revived and reborn” in Mexico.
Among those present at the groundbreaking ceremony were Transportation Minister Jesús Antonio Esteva, Guanajuato Governor Libia García Muñoz Ledo, Querétaro Governor Mauricio Kuri González and Andrés Lajous, director of Mexico’s Rail Transport Regulatory Agency. (SICT/X)
The US $5.3 billion project will build a 108.2-km (67.2-mile) track between Querétaro and other cities located in the Bajío region, which boasts thriving manufacturing, agribusiness and technology sectors.
The Querétaro-Irapuato line is part of Sheinbaum’s ambitious project that would build 3,000 km of track during her six-year term. This section is not only designed to boost connectivity and development in the Bajío, but will eventually link the region to Guadalajara and western Mexico.
The line will also strengthen the Bajío’s connection with the nation’s capital as it extends from the Mexico City-Querétaro line, which is nearing completion.
Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation Minister Jesús Antonio Esteva was joined on site in Apaseo el Grande by Guanajuato Governor Libia García Muñoz Ledo, Querétaro Governor Mauricio Kuri González and Andrés Lajous, director of Mexico’s Rail Transport Regulatory Agency (ARTF).
Lajous said the new line will feature a non-electrified twin-track section designed to support a maximum speed of 200 km/hr (124 mph). It will also feature two viaducts allowing for interaction with industry and rail freight services, as well as nine vehicle overpasses.
The rail line’s six stations will be located in Querétaro, Apaseo el Grande, Celaya, Villagrán/Cortázar, Salamanca and Irapuato, the latter five all being in the state of Guanajuato.
The government estimates the project will generate 1,518 direct jobs and 8,255 indirect jobs.
Lajous said 2 million people will benefit from the construction of this trunk line. “We estimate a demand of roughly 30,000 people per day between the Apaseo El Grande stations and Mexico City.”
Both governors praised the cooperation between their governments and the federal government, expressing certainty that the new line will enhance mobility in their states.
“The Querétaro-Mexico City train has been a dream of Queretanos for more than 46 years, and this new connectivity with the west … will contribute to the competitiveness of my state,” Kuri said.
“Guanajuato has a long railway tradition dating to 1877, and we know what trains bring to our communities and municipalities: development, progress, well-being, and, above all, connection between families that fills us with emotion,” García said.
President Sheinbaum and Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney announced plans to deepen economic ties during Carney's Thursday visit to Mexico City. (Presidencia)
Mexico and Canada pledged to deepen ties and work to strengthen the free trade pact they share with the United States, during Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney’s visit to Mexico City on Thursday.
The two leaders announced an agreement on a new comprehensive partnership and a security dialogue focused on issues such as transnational crime and drug-smuggling.
Bienvenida oficial al primer ministro de Canadá, Mark Carney. Palacio Nacional https://t.co/vO7uyScnWZ
“Today, we’re beginning a new era of elevated cooperation,” Carney said during a news conference with President Claudia Sheinbaum.
Sheinbaum said the partnership would “bring a new era of further strengthening economic ties” between the two nations, and expressed confidence the agreements would bear fruit in the near term.
“Mexico and Canada will continue walking together, with mutual respect and with a certainty that cooperation is the path to overcome any challenge,” she said.
Carney concurred, adding that “our efforts will be strengthened by working together.”
New rounds of bilateral meetings are set for the coming months, as well as greater collaboration on security issues, agriculture, energy, finance, health and the environment.
“At this hinge moment, Canada is deepening our relationships with our long-standing partners,” Carney said. “Mexico is central to those missions.”
According to the CBC, Carney’s stated goal was to find ways to work with Mexico to preserve free trade in North America, “or at least as much of it as can be saved from the most protectionist U.S. administration in a century.”
Carney also focused on developing a bilateral trade relationship “that operates independently of the whims of the White House, and can survive whatever fate lies in store” for the renegotiated USMCA, the CBC reported.
“Together, we will build stronger supply chains, create new opportunities for workers and deliver greater prosperity and certainty for both Canadians and Mexicans,” Carney said.
Sheinbaum has said Mexico wants to increase bilateral trade via maritime routes to avoid shipping through the U.S.
The bilateral trade relationship was a major focus of Carney’s Thursday trip to Mexico. (Claudia Sheinbaum/X)
Action on such a trade corridor is lacking. Mexico has multiple ports on each coast whereas Canada’s two primary ports — Montreal and Vancouver — lack the infrastructure to handle an increase in maritime trade.
Another suggestion is for Mexico and Canada to jointly produce goods for growing Asian and South American markets through the Trans-Pacific Partnership, of which the U.S. is not a member.
Trump and the USMCA review
With widening economic uncertainty due to protectionist tariff policies, U.S. President Donald Trump cast a long shadow at the bilateral talks.
A fundamental reason for Carney’s visit was the United States-Mexico-Canada trade pact (USMCA), but Trump’s trade threats have made political and business leaders nervous.
“Trump looms over this visit,” Nelson Wiseman, professor emeritus at the University of Toronto, told The Associated Press. “Mexico and Canada now share a common threat from the U.S.”
The three North American nations simultaneously commenced public consultations earlier this week, ahead of a mandatory review of the U.S.-Mexico-Canada free trade agreement (USMCA) set for next year.
Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard said an evaluation of the USMCA — via public comment — will take place through the end of the year to prepare for negotiations over a possible extension of the agreement.
Carney said on Thursday that the individual reviews ahead of next year’s collective discussions will strengthen each country’s economy.
GWM's strong statement of support for its Mexican operations was a welcome shot in the arm for President Sheinbaum's Asian trade policy, coming after the Chinese government's criticism of the planned tariff increase. (Shutterstock)
Great Wall Motors, the Chinese automaker, has confirmed it will continue to operate in Mexico despite proposed tariffs of up to 50% on Chinese car imports.
“GWM is here to stay,” Great Wall Motors (GWM) announced, sending a message of certainty to its distributors and consumers. “We will continue investing, growing, and strengthening each of our strategic and business relationships in the country.”
GWM is a global automaker whose offerings include SUVs, pickups and EVs. It has been operating in Mexico for two years. (Herrera San Luis/Facebook)
Tariffs on car imports from China to Mexico could increase from 20% to 50%, according to the planned reform of the tariff fractions within the General Import and Export Tax Law. The project, currently being debated in the Chamber of Deputies, would form a crucial part of President Claudia Sheinbaum’s Economic Package for next year, as she seeks to increase public revenues through taxation.
GWM Mexico General Manager and Vice President Pedro Albarrán said he is “fully aware of the potential impact of a tariff adjustment like the one currently being proposed,” but added that his company considers it “important to reiterate our presence in the country.”
GWM has operated in Mexico for nearly two years. Between January and August this year, the company sold 9,685 vehicles, marking a 6% increase compared to 2024. Its models include the Haval H6 hybrid SUV, the fully electric ORA 03, Haval Jolion SUV, the Tank 300 and the Poer pickup.
The automaker said its goal is to be an active part of the country’s economic, technological and energy development.
“Mexico is a priority market for us and our plans, vision and objectives continue to be long-term,” Albarrán stressed.
GWM’s expansion strategy in Mexico has been supported by a growing network of distributors in the country, which currently stands at over 50. The company aims for nationwide coverage with locations in major cities like Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monterrey, Puebla, Querétaro, León, Toluca and others.
“Whatever the final outcome of the [imposition of new tariffs], our permanence in Mexico is firm and our commitment unwavering,” Albarrán stressed.
Community residents are mobilizing in Sonora to oppose three planned dam projects, which they say will render the region almost uninhabitable. (Liliam Urías)
At 8 a.m. on a sweltering Saturday morning, a convoy of pickups and cars rumbled out of the mountain town of Bacoachi, banners fluttering in the desert wind. Families leaned out of windows waving signs that read “No to dams!” as the “Megacaravan” began its 262-kilometer trek through the whole mountainous region. Along the way, more vehicles joined until nearly 70 cars — and some 600 people — pulled into Hermosillo’s university district. There, city residents were already waiting at the steps of the University Museum and Library, under an unforgiving 45 degree Celsius sun.
For organizers like Isabel Dorado Auz, a university professor and activist with Ciudadanía Activa Sonora, the Aug. 30 caravan was more than a protest. It was a living act of resistance and education.
Why Sonoran residents are protesting new dam projects
Protesters gathered in Hermosillo, Sonora, to show their resistance to new dam projects. (Liliam Urías)
That resistance was felt again just a week later, when President Claudia Sheinbaum visited Hermosillo on Sept. 6. Río Sonora residents rallied outside her event, echoing the caravan’s call for a halt to the state government’s plan to build three new dams in the watershed — Sinoquipe, Puerta del Sol, and Las Chivas — as part of its Plan Hídrico Sonora. Officials argue the projects are needed to secure water for Hermosillo, a desert capital of nearly one million thatloses more than half of its supply to leaks.
Faced with the demonstrators, Governor Alfonso Durazo said the administration was in dialogue with ejidos opposed to the dams. Their discontent, he argued, stems from a lack of information, and he pledged that “everything we do will be done in agreement with the community.”
Community leaders bristle at the suggestion that they don’t understand the project — though they welcomed Durazo’s commitment not to move forward without community consent. “If we don’t convince you, there will be no dams,”the governor told Río Sonora residents, according to a post on Ciudadanía Activa Sonora’s Facebook page. The group highlighted the statement in bold letters, superimposed on the image of a free-flowing river.
For communities along the Sonora and San Miguel rivers, the dams represent an existential threat. Many see them as a continuation of decades of water mismanagement that began long before the 2014 toxic spill that dumped 40,000 cubic meters of mining waste into the river. That disaster, still unresolved, was invoked repeatedly during the caravan as a cautionary tale of what happens when corporate and government interests override community voices.
Echoes of El Molinito
Farmers here know what dams can do to a living river. Engineer Ismael Limón, ejidatario and former irrigation district leader in Molino de Camou, remembers the day in 1991 when the Rodolfo Félix Valdés dam — better known as El Molinito — was inaugurated just upstream from his village.
“As a result of the construction of El Molinito Dam came the decline of agriculture,” Limón said. A study by hydrologist Rolando Díaz Caravantes later documented the damage. Between 1994 and 2012, irrigated farmland downstream shrank from 9,000 to 3,000 hectares. Downstream of El Molinito, part of the river corridor turned to desert, as riparian vegetation gave way to scrub. “There are communities that don’t have even a single drop of water in their wells.”
Sonoran residents fear new dams will leave them with little water for agricultural needs. (Liliam Urías)
Limón, who farmed four to five hectares like most of his neighbors, saw his livelihood collapse. “Agriculture and livestock are practically paralyzed because we are small producers. Families depend on what they grow and on their animals. But right now, there is practically no irrigation water for crops.”
Industrial mining vs. agricultural needs
Meanwhile, industrial mining — particularly Grupo México’s Buenavista del Cobre in Cananea — never slowed production. “Mining has concessions for more than 50 million cubic meters of water at the source of the Río Sonora,” Limón noted. “That volume is enough to fill El Molinito dam in two years.”
Rodolfo Castro Valdez, Conagua’s general director for the northwest watershed, responded that in drought years, Conagua has prioritized urban supply over agriculture, as the National Water Law requires. He added that downstream of El Molinito, nearly 4 million cubic meters remain concessioned for 660 hectares of farmland.
Activists, however, argue that such percentages obscure the reality on the ground: that surface flows in the Río Sonora are minimal, leaving little for communities.
Water for Whom?
Under Mexico’s National Water Law, human consumption takes priority, followed by agriculture, then industry and recreation. But in Sonora, Dorado said, the order has been inverted. A majority, or “55% of the water rights where the Río Sonora is born are for mining,” he said flatly.
Communities that once thrived on small-scale farming and ranching are left hauling water in trucks while multinational corporations consume tens of millions of cubic meters. “Small producers were not allowed to plant a single thing. But mining has not stopped producing a single gram of copper or gold,” Limón added.
For Megacaravan protesters, the real question behind the dam projects is this: Who benefits? (Liliam Urías)
For caravan participants, this is the heart of the issue: who benefits from these projects, and who pays the cost? Many residents believe the dams are less about supplying Hermosillo and more about securing water for industrial development and real estate. “At the bottom, there is a real estate project. That is the main motivation we see from the state government,” Limón charged.
Conagua disputes this figure. Castro said industrial concessions in the basin represent just 4% of the total, compared with 83% for agriculture and 11% for urban supply. He acknowledged that mining is the dominant activity in Cananea but argued that water allocations “correspond to the productive vocation of the region.”
Dorado, meanwhile, insists that mining concessions at the river’s source are precisely why downstream communities see their wells run dry.
A call to consultation
What angers locals most is the lack of transparency. Despite repeated promises from Gov. Durazo and federal agencies, communities have yet to receive even the most basic technical studies – no environmental impact assessments, no soil mechanics reports, no cost-benefit analysis.
State Water Commission director Ariel Monge countered that the commission has been in dialogue with the ejido groups in the municipality of San Pedro de Ures, where citizens have, in fact, requested dams “for more than 100 years.” He added that the current president of the San Pedro ejido, Eduviges “Vickita” Martínez Navarro, has shifted her view after participating in government information sessions, and is now seeking legal guarantees to ensure the benefits of any project are permanent.
Martínez, however, had spoken out strongly against the dams in a video posted on Facebook just weeks earlier, declaring: “It’s a resounding no to the dams.” Asked by Mexico News Daily to clarify her position, Martínez did not respond.
Protesters in Sonora would like to see the new dam projects publicly debated. (Liliam Urías)
Organizers have called for public debates and genuine consultation. “Why don’t they let the people take part in decision-making? Why do they want to impose this project on them?” Dorado asked.
Castro responded that Conagua provided available technical information to citizen groups on Aug. 19 and has been holding meetings with rural and agricultural sectors for months. Organizers counter that, to date, they have not received the core studies they have been demanding.
Alternatives on the table
For years, academics and rural leaders have offered solutions to Hermosillo’s water woes that don’t require damming rivers:
Fixing leaks:With efficiency below 50%, repairing Hermosillo’s distribution system could guarantee water “for twenty or thirty more years.”
Aquifer recharge: Through rainwater harvesting, infiltration galleries and managed injection wells. “There are many types of recharge that can be done in the basin to recover the hydrological cycle,” Limón said.
Wastewater treatment: Hermosillo treats only a fraction of its sewage. “If we took advantage of 100% of wastewater, it would be a different story,” Limón argued.
Urban reforestation: Planting a million trees would restore microclimates, reduce heat and increase rainfall retention.
These proposals are not new. They have been presented repeatedly to municipal, state and federal authorities. But little has changed. “There needs to be political will, and instead they want to solve a problem for the mining industry, even if Hermosillo suffers the consequences,” Limón said.
Resistance on the ground
At Puerta del Sol, where one of the dams is planned, residents have already chased out survey crews and “kicked out the siervos de la nación (federal program representatives), even though the National Guard was standing right there.” In San Pedro de Ures, more than 40 vehicles joined the caravan in solidarity.
Communities have set up vigils and pledged to mobilize if machinery arrives. “All of the communities agreed they will not allow the construction of the dams because they threaten their way of life,” Dorado said. “People are very upset, and this could explode into a social conflict.”
Opposition to the dam projects has the potential to erupt into social conflict, protesters warn. (Liliam Urías)
The parallels to 2014 are never far from mind. That year, Grupo México’s Buenavista mine spilled toxic copper sulfate into the Sonora and Bacanuchi rivers, contaminating water for 22,000 people in what is now recognized as the worst mining disaster in Mexican history. The promised remediation — water treatment plants, a specialty hospital, compensation funds — never fully materialized. The memory fuels distrust today. “The hospital was never completed, the water treatment plants were never built, and the list goes on,” reads the caravan’s call.
‘Life is more important’
For many here, the stakes could not be higher. Limón summarized the sentiment that echoed through the caravan. “The people of Sonora say we want to live, even if minerals are not produced. Life is more important than the minerals that Grupo México is extracting.”
The struggle has also become a moral appeal to Mexico’s leaders. Dorado recalled confronting President Claudia Sheinbaum in Bavispe earlier this year, invoking her background as an environmental scientist. “We approached the president because she is a scientist, because she was Secretary of the Environment in Mexico City, and we expected her to have more empathy,” he said. But until now, residents argue, her administration has not acted decisively.
Their demand is clear. “We want her to stand with the people and not with economic power. It’s not right that political power, allied with economic power, delivers a fatal blow to ecosystems.”
The global trend
Sonora’s fight resonates beyond Mexico. Around the world, governments and scientists are rethinking the role of dams, with the U.N. and environmental agencies warning that new construction often causes more harm than good. Even Mexico’s own Environment Ministry published in 2020 that further dam-building was “unfeasible.”
“It is not recommended to build new dams because they cause more damage than benefits. And the river should flow freely. That’s what it’s about,” Dorado said.
Opponents to the dam projects have publicly called for President Sheinbaum’s support. (Liliam Urías)
For caravan participants, the rivers are more than water sources. They are cultural lifelines, ecosystems they describe as “the lungs of the state and the country.” Their defense, they argue, is not only about survival. It’s also about preserving the health of the land for generations to come.
After the caravan
As the sun beat down on Hermosillo’s streets, demonstrators refused to retreat indoors. “The heat index was like 50 degrees Celsius. But the anger, the indignation, was so great that people said no. We’re not moving until it’s over,” Dorado recalled.
What comes next is uncertain. Officials continue to promise dialogue, but technical documents remain under wraps. Communities vow they will not accept impositions.
For now, the caravan stands as a declaration of intent. From Bacoachi to Hermosillo, rural and urban residents have joined voices to say no. “We want to preserve our way of life, our traditions, and the dams will only bring total disorder,” Limón said.
Tracy L. Barnett is a freelance writer based in Guadalajara. She is the founder of The Esperanza Project, a bilingual magazine covering social change movements in the Americas.