Thursday, May 1, 2025

Finance minister: Mexico ‘must produce more’ amid growing trade deficit with China

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Finance Minister Rogelio Ramírez de la O speaks at a podium about the Mexico-China trade balance
The Finance Ministry, led by Rogelio Ramírez de la O, said Moody's analysis is lacking key information related to Mexico's 2025 fiscal plans. (Presidencia)

Mexico needs to review its trade relationship with China because it isn’t “reciprocal,” Finance Minister Rogelio Ramírez de la O said Saturday after pointing out that Mexico’s imports from China far exceed its exports to the East Asian nation.

At an event in San Luis Potosí alongside current and future officials including President Andrés Manuel López Obrador and President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum, Ramírez said that Mexico is too dependent on China for basic goods.

Andrés Manuel López Obrador and Xi Jinping
President López Obrador met with Chinese President Xi Jinping for the first time last year, as global economic dynamics increasingly test the countries’ trade relationship. (Andrés Manuel López Obrador/X)

“In 2021, President López Obrador … asked me to develop what he called Plan Mexico. This is a plan to create awareness that Mexico, like North America [as a whole], needs to produce more than it consumes, that we’re depending too much on basic products from China for our homes,” he said.

“… Mexico has to carry out its own review because … we buy US $119 billion [worth of products] per year from China and we sell $11 billion [worth of goods] to China. China sells to us but doesn’t buy from us and that’s not reciprocal trade,” said Ramírez, who will stay on as finance minister after Sheinbaum is sworn in as president on Oct. 1.

The finance minister said that Mexico has “great opportunities to produce more” and by doing so will “maintain our industry, our jobs and our salaries.”

Previous advantages of manufacturing in China, such as low labor costs, have “disappeared,” Ramírez said, adding that shipping costs from the Asian nation to North America “have exploded upward.”

A growing trade deficit with China 

Data from China’s General Administration of Customs (GAC) shows that Mexico’s trade deficit with the East Asian economic powerhouse has more than doubled between 2018 and 2023.

The data — which differs from the figures cited by Ramírez — shows that Mexico imported goods from China worth a record high $81.5 billion last year. Mexico exported products to China worth $18.8 billion in 2023, leaving it with a record high trade deficit of $62.7 billion.

Mexico’s trade deficit with China was just under $30.1 billion in 2018, according to the GAC.

Car models, a Chinese trade item, on display at BYD's Mexico City showroom.
Car models on display at Chinese vehicle manufacturer BYD’s Mexico City showroom. (BYD Global/X)

China’s exports to Mexico — among which are raw materials, capital goods, consumer products and cars — increased 85% between 2018 and 2023, and 152% between 2014 and 2023.

In contrast, Mexico’s exports to China only increased by 33% over the past five years and 68% over the last ten.

Ramírez said Saturday that China’s share of the global market for exports has increased to 14% from 3.8% in 2001, the year it became a member of the World Trade Organization.

“This increase was to a large extent at the cost of North America,” he said.

“The North American participation [in the global export market] … declined from 19% in 2000 to 13% in 2022,” Ramírez said, referring to Mexican, U.S. and Canadian exports.

The three North American countries are very dependent on Chinese exports, he said, although Mexico has now overtaken China as the largest exporter to the United States.

Chinatown area of Mexico City
Products on sale in Mexico City’s “barrio chino” or Chinatown, ahead of Chinese New Year. (Cuartoscuro)

“The United States depends on China for 16.5% of its total imports, Canada depends [on China] for 13.5% and Mexico depends on China for 19.6% of its total imports,” Ramírez said.

“This is a situation that has led to a feeling [that there is a need] to further protect our industries, and this sentiment has grown both in the United States and in Mexico,” he said.

Ramírez also noted that China’s share of global GDP has increased significantly over the past two decades while North America’s share has decreased.

“It’s logical that both Americans and Mexicans are demanding our fair share of this global demand [for exports], and that’s why we have Plan Mexico,” he said.

Will Mexico increase tariffs on Chinese imports? 

Ramírez didn’t make any specific announcement about a plan to increase tariffs on Chinese goods, but he did say that officials were “busy doing our job to bring industry back.”

One way to help Mexican industry would be to make their products more competitive by imposing higher tariffs on Chinese imports.

In an interview with Mexico News Daily in June, former Mexican ambassador to China Jorge Guajardo said that imposing higher tariffs on Chinese imports to protect Mexican industry was a pressing and important task for the incoming government.

In April, the current government implemented new tariffs that impacted more than 500 Chinese products, but Guajardo told MND that Mexico needs to do more to “help Mexican industry withstand this tsunami of Chinese imports” — and quickly.

A cargo ship docked in Mexico with a crane preparing to remove containers containing trade goods from China.
A Hong Kong ship waits to unload Asian goods in Mexico. (SSA México)

The former ambassador said that “ideally,” Mexico, the United States and Canada would all “mirror each other’s tariffs” on Chinese products.

In May, the United States announced that its tariff rate on Chinese electric vehicles would increase to 100% from 25%.

A change of investment policy on the horizon for Mexico?

Mexico is currently welcoming significant amounts of Chinese investment, and more Chinese money is expected to come into the country as companies such as Lingong Machinery Group and electric vehicle manufacturer BYD act on their announced plans.

President López Obrador said in March that Chinese investment in Mexico “will continue.”

However, while speaking about Mexico’s relationship with China on Saturday, Ramírez said that the government is “considering” changing its investment policy. Without providing specific details, he suggested that Mexico could seek to prevent or limit Chinese investment in some sectors.

Reuters reported in April that pressure from United States authorities has led the Mexican government to refuse to offer incentives to Chinese electric vehicle manufacturers planning to invest in Mexico.

In late 2023, Mexico and the United States agreed to cooperate on foreign investment screening as a measure to better protect the national security of both countries.

The plan appeared to be motivated to a large degree by a desire to stop problematic Chinese investment in Mexico, although United States Secretary of the Treasury Janet Yellen said at the time that her investment screening talks with Ramírez were “not just China-focused.”

A major reason why Mexico attracts Chinese companies is that it allows them to ship their products to the United States tariff-free. Mexico has consequently been described as a “backdoor” to the U.S.

In May, United States Trade Representative Katherine Tai said “stay tuned” when asked whether the U.S. could impose protective measures against products made in Mexico by Chinese companies, such as electric vehicles.

Sheinbaum — who will become Mexico’s first female president when she takes office on Oct. 1 — said earlier this month that her governments’ aim will not just be to attract investment, but to ensure that money flowing into Mexico leads to development across the country and generates “well-being” for all Mexican people.

With reports from Reforma, El Economista, El Financiero and El Universal 

The coast is clear! Experts forecast a sargassum-free summer for Quintana Roo

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Puerto Morelos, Quintana Roo
Quintana Roo’s sargassum monitoring agency announced it expects a sargassum-free summer. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

Quintana Roo’s sargassum monitoring agency forecasts that the remainder of the year will be sargassum-free, boosting the state’s economic outlook and pleasing the tourists who flock to the state’s beaches.

Esteban Jesús Amaro, a hydrobiologist and director of the agency, said favorable marine currents suggest a course that will exempt Mexican Caribbean beaches from the unsightly seaweed infestations that have troubled the tourism industry for more than a decade. 

Beach loungers with parasols lying empty on a Playa del Carmen beach with palm trees and small amounts of seaweed in the background on the shore.
The sargassum forecast for Mexico is good news for Quintana Roo beachgoers. (Arkadij Schnell/Shutterstock)

Amaro said Hurricane Beryl was responsible for dumping the most recent sargassum landfall but that was likely the last of it. His team’s forecast is based on studies of satellite images of the Caribbean and its prevailing currents. 

“The masses of sargassum that were on a path toward [Mexico] have been dispersed to the north and are headed into the Greater and Lesser Antilles and in the direction of the Dominican Republic,” he said. Trade winds have also shifted, further redirecting the biomass away from Mexico’s southeast coast.

“We might go six or seven months without sargassum [landing on Quintana Roo’s beaches], perhaps not until February,” Amaro said. 

Climate change is also a contributing factor affecting the sargassum forecast, Amaro told the newspaper La Jornada Maya. Ocean temperatures have significantly altered marine dynamics such that unexpected patterns can develop quickly.

Should sargassum be seen as an economic opportunity for Quintana Roo?

In late July, the vessel named Jorge Carranza Fraser — Mexico’s world-class research/survey ship — arrived in Cancún after tracking clumps of the seaweed from its origin near Africa to Mexico’s shores. 

And there was plenty to track. The Quintana Roo monitoring agency reported 190,865 tonnes of sargassum in the Atlantic, 70,000 tonnes in the eastern Caribbean and 1,318 tonnes in the Mexican Caribbean. Even so, this amount was considerably less than last summer, according to Amaro.

The vessel Jorge Carranza Fraser
The vessel Jorge Carranza Fraser spent the first part of the year tracking clumps of the seaweed from its origin near Africa to Mexico’s shores. (@ASIPONA_Man/X)

The state-of-the-art ship is hoping to transform sargassum from an eyesore that must be removed into an economic opportunity. Research suggests sargassum can be used to produce biogas that can generate electricity and biofertilizers; other studies indicate the algae might have industrial applications.

Beginning in 2011, huge quantities of sargassum began to pile up on Caribbean coastlines, including the Yucatan Peninsula. The brown slimy mess is an economic and ecological problem, affecting tourists who prefer a clean coastline while also disrupting marine and coastal ecosystems.

Researchers propose collecting the sargassum out in the middle of the sea while it is still alive to better study its qualities. Scientists admit that early findings are positive but effective application of the strategy could take years, especially since the impact of large-scale sargassum collection on local ecosystems remains unknown.

With reports from Por Esto!, La Jornada Maya and El Economista

Siemens inaugurates new plant in Querétaro with a focus on decarbonization

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The new Kaizen plant, inaugurated on July 15, will create 400 jobs.
The new Kaizen plant, inaugurated on July 15, will create 400 jobs. (Siemens)

German technology conglomerate Siemens inaugurated a new plant in Querétaro last week that the company says will enhance its ability to provide energy distribution solutions in Mexico and North America.

Siemens will invest 940 million pesos (US $52.4 million) over five years with the aim of strengthening its position in the medium and low-voltage energy market, while also contributing to economic development and job creation in the region. 

Siemens' new Kaizer plant in Querétaro, Mexico
The Querétaro government and Siemens have agreed to collaborate on supply chain decarbonization through the SiGREEN platform. (@makugo/X)

In a social media post, Querétaro Governor Mauricio Kuri celebrated the 400 new jobs that will be created at the new production facility, while praising Siemens’ decision to expand operations in the state.

Kuri asserted that the new Siemens plant demonstrates that his administration “continues to provide the best conditions for investment,” a claim supported by the fact that Querétaro was set to be the biggest recipient of investment by amount announced in the first six months of 2024, according to the federal Economy Ministry. 

At the inauguration, Alejandro Preinfalk, CEO of Siemens Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, said the Kaizen plant is “not only an operational expansion, but also a step toward a more sustainable future.”

“The inauguration of Kaizen underlines the agreement … to reduce carbon emissions through the implementation of Siemens’ SiGREEN technology,” Preinfalk said.

SiGREEN is a Siemens platform that helps manage product-level emissions, known as a Product Carbon Footprint (PCF). PCF measures in carbon dioxide equivalents the total greenhouse gas emissions generated by a product, from extraction of raw materials to end-of-life. 

Siemens and the Querétaro government signed a memorandum of understanding (MoA) that aims to accelerate supply chain decarbonization through the SiGREEN platform and slash greenhouse gas emissions across Queréetaro’s business landscape.

Siemens recently celebrated 130 years of operations in Mexico.
Siemens recently celebrated 130 years of operations in Mexico. (@mdelprete/X)

Preinfalk praised the collaboration as a win for Mexico’s industrial ecosystem and sustainability goals. “This solution enables precise carbon footprint tracking based on industry standards, enhancing supply chain transparency. It also enables companies to share emissions data, facilitating assessment and implementation of measures such as renewable energy adoption, resource efficiency and transport optimization,” Preinfalk said.

A day after the inauguration, Marco del Prete, head of Querétaro’s Sustainable Development Ministry, spoke about emissions reduction and industrial sustainability initiatives at an event celebrating Siemens’ 130 years of operations in Mexico.

In a social media post, del Prete reiterated the state government’s commitment to an energetic and environmentally responsible future.

“We are continuing to analyze the benefits of the SiGREEN platform to continue with the decarbonization of the industry in the state … [the platform] tracks the carbon footprint of products that arrive or are produced in Querétaro,” del Prete said.

With reports from Milenio and Mexico Industry

CDMX intelligence chief murdered while off duty in México state

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Milton Morales Figueroa was head of the Mexico City strategy, tactics and special operations unit of the Mexico City Security Ministry (SSC).
Milton Morales Figueroa was head of the Mexico City strategy, tactics and special operations unit of the Mexico City Security Ministry (SSC).

A Mexico City security official who was set to take up a position in the federal Security Ministry was shot and murdered while shopping in México state on Sunday.

Milton Morales Figueroa, head of the Mexico City strategy, tactics and special operations unit of the Mexico City Security Ministry (SSC), was murdered outside a chicken shop in Coacalco, a municipality just north of Mexico City.

The murder of Milton Morales occurred at midday outside of a chicken shop in Coacalco, México state.
The murder of Milton Morales occurred at midday outside of a chicken shop in Coacalco, México state. (@gizelaglp/X)

The 40-year-old official carried out intelligence work at the SSC and was responsible for investigating “high-impact” crimes such as the 2022 attack on well-known journalist Ciro Gómez Leyva.

He worked alongside former Mexico City Security Minister Omar García Harfuch, who was wounded in a 2020 attack allegedly perpetrated by the Jalisco New Generation Cartel (CJNG).

According to a report by the newspaper Reforma, Morales would have become a member of García’s team once García assumes the position of security minister in the incoming federal administration to be led by Claudia Sheinbaum, who will be sworn in as president on Oct. 1.

García acknowledged Morales’ death in a post on social media.

“Rest in peace our friend and colleague Milton — an extremely generous man, an extraordinary investigator, a great Mexican and above all a great friend,” he wrote on X.

García pledged that authorities will hold those responsible for the murder to account, “as we have always done,” he wrote.

A lone gunman shot Morales in the head before fleeing, according to an SSC statement. He was also shot in the back, according to a police report cited by the newspaper El Universal. He had no vital signs when paramedics reached the scene, the SSC said.

Morales, who lived nearby, was with his sister-in-law and a 77-year-old man at the time of the attack, according to reports. The elderly man was shot in the leg and taken to hospital for treatment.

Security camera footage showed that the aggressor was wearing a green sweater, grey pants and a cap. He was in one of at least two cars that were following Morales’ vehicle before his murder, police sources told El Universal.

Mexico City Security Minister Pablo Vázquez Camacho called the attack “cowardly.”

“In this case, as in other cases we deal with at the SSC, there will be no impunity,” he wrote on X.

“We will work in coordination with the México state Attorney General’s Office and the México state Security Ministry to identify and detain the culprits and bring them to justice,” Vázquez said.

With reports from ReformaEl Universal and El Financiero

MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Quintana Roo

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Holbox Island, Mexico
Luxury awaits anyone who wants to live in Quintana Roo - but it comes at a price. (McJanson/Unsplash)

Last week, we focused on authenticity as a guiding attribute for your overseas living deliberations. With this week’s emphasis on the state of Quintana Roo (its islands, superstar urban resorts, and micro-communities appealing to folks from around the world) another key attribute for successful living in Mexico is lifestyle intention.

Quintana Roo is Mexico’s tourism powerhouse and maybe the most successful vacation development story in the Americas. Today, half of Mexico’s 40 million “overnight” visitors land in Quintana Roo. And for good reason, but does that necessarily mean you’ll be happy living here?

Quintana Roo is Mexico’s tourism capital – and while it might not be for everyone, it offers an almost unparalleled level of convenience to those who choose to make their home there. (Wikimedia)

As a state, Quintana Roo was only formed in 1974; it wasn’t even a Mexican “territory” until 1902. It was scantily populated and more a string of coconut palm plantations and isolated fishing villages than a coherent development. Today, the entire 500 kilometer long Caribbean coast has long been taken over, sliced up, and plotted for some form of actual (or future) tourism or residential development. The only exception to this is the magnificent Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. The southern cruise port town of Mahahual, the Maya Train, and the new international airport in Tulum ensure that the push south will march on until Mexico runs out of land at the Belize border. 

Now home to two million residents and a tourism economy so famous it has eclipsed vacationer interest in going anywhere else in the Caribbean, Quintana Roo just might be your new beach living paradise. We’ve rated seven places where foreigners are flocking to experience a form of Mexico living quite unlike anywhere else in the country. 

In Quintana Roo, it is important to be mindful of how the global tourism economy has been calling the shots here for the past four decades (and much more so than the Mexican government). This has undeniably caused environmental impacts but also investment, higher living standards, and generational socio-economic opportunities for hundreds of thousands of your new Mexican neighbors. Bravo for that. 

But you can sometimes feel a detached “along for the ride” living experience. This is certainly true in Cancún and Playa del Carmen, where foreign-owned resort after resort has a free hand in plowing ahead (literally) in response to unquenched demand for bigger and bigger all-inclusive, walled enclaves for the world’s vacationers. You’ll have to turn inland in the state’s southern region (or an island) to find anything resembling genuine cultural authenticity.

You’ll need to get comfortable with the idea of living where others come to party and do vacation things. The cost of living (housing, food, energy, entertainment) is higher here. Across a tortilla flat landscape of Caribbean, Mayan, and modern Mexican influences, Quintana Roo has more beach community living choices than in any other Mexican state. If you want luxury, convenience, and the comforts of home, it’s hard to argue that anywhere else in Mexico is better for you.

When it comes to weather, this is Hurricane Alley, with 51 inches of annual rain and a daily mean temperature that approaches 80 degrees. April and August are the two hottest months and air-conditioned living prevails statewide. Cooling Caribbean breeze helps, but the heat and humidity should be taken into account when deciding whether to live here.

Cancún

The beaches of Cancún are world famous for good reason. (Shutterstock)

Cancún and Playa del Carmen earn higher scores (see chart), assuming living in an urban resort is your thing. Cancún (population around one million) has two physical spaces: the mainland city and the number “7-shaped” island resort (home to over 32,000 hotel rooms and surprisingly few residential living options). You’ll more likely be making your home on the mainland, in gated residential communities, a high-rise condo tower, or a private home in Cancún’s sprawl. Air connectivity to get you back home or away (Europe or South America, anyone?) is unsurpassed, with better connectivity to many European cities than even the capital. 

What’s not always easy is connecting with fellow foreigners (reflected in Cancún’s low “Community” and “Culture” scores). Cancún’s civil society has been more focused on tourism careers than cultural institutions or creating communal bonds that you would expect to find in cities of comparable size and prosperity.  

Puerto Morelos

Puerto Morelos
Puerto Morelos offers a taste of the old Quintana Roo, retaining much of its previous fishing village charm. (Playa del Carmen)

Puerto Morelos may be a better shot at a more intention-focused full-time living experience for some. It’s got a fishing town vibe and under 30,000 residents. Hemmed in by mangroves that confine inland sprawl, you can live along the narrow beach-facing corridor for a truly scenic, small-town experience or across the main highway in the “city.” Puerto affords local mobility with a Maya Train station (while Cancún City is 42 km north), a semblance of less urban living, and (mostly) avoids the daily hoards that can overwhelm other Riviera Maya locations.

Playa del Carmen

Avenida Quinta, Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen’s legendary 5th Avenue, home to the hustle and bustle of the thriving town. (Top Adventure)

Playa del Carmen (population exceeding 300,000, if anyone is counting) has a different vibe and more pockets of genuine connections between folks from around the world and their Mexican neighbors. Since almost no one can make every day a “beach day,” you’ll find ways to learn Spanish (or maybe even Mayan), volunteer, recreate, and move about the Mexican Caribbean with so much above (and below) ground natural wonderment, found in nearby Isla Cozumel, mainland forests, jungle savanna, mangroves, cenotes, reefs, and eco-parks. 

The small business scene has flourishing expat run enterprises, Mexicans from across the country, superb dining options, bars, mega-shopping options, and of course, hordes of day visitors who have made Playa’s La Quinta Avenida and nearby ferry pier a 24/7 beehive of commercialism. 

Party animals will also appreciate the vibrant nightlife on offer throughout the city, second only to nearby Cancún.

Isla Cozumel and the Quintana Roo islands

The beautiful beaches and calm seas of Cozumel are just a small part of the reason it is so popular with expats. (Fernando Jorge/Unsplash)

Ah, Isla Cozumel, so close to being a true confluence of the best of Mexico, the Mundo Maya, and the Caribbean. It sits just 30 minutes offshore by ferry and is home to a mere 88,000 souls. But alas, it’s one of the world’s most visited cruise ports of call, and staying clear of the invasion is harder and harder. Mega-vessel dockings are daily and can average over 50,000 weekly visitors. Still, finding quiet spaces in the morning and early evenings might be enough compensation. The island’s west-facing beaches (clear of the seaweed that takes over QR during part of the year) are truly idyllic; it’s where those Corona beer commercials used to be filmed. Cozumel is a very friendly place that keeps its rhythm alongside Mayan, familial cultural connections with the mainland. 

Two other islands draw the attention of the “gotta-have-a-beach” transplants. Of course, there’s Isla Mujeres, forever lingering on the horizon north of the Cancún resort zone. Isla’s fall to the all-inclusive resort trend was, I guess, inevitable. But it’s still a very cool place for “life-in-a-golfcart” mobility and there are still Mayan fishermen here. Drinking water shortages and ferry-only access keep the place a reasonable option for the hearty Caribbean Island fanatic.

Far more isolated is Isla Holbox, secluded along QR’s wild north coast. A smaller enclave of the more barefoot-bohemian cohort just loves it hee. It’s a throwback to QR from a couple of generations ago. Quiet, ungentrified, and friendly – albeit with not a whole lot of year-round living housing choices.

Bacalar

The Bacalar lagoon area of Quintana Roo
The Bacalar lagoon calls to those wanting to live a more sustainable life, although there is much less available to those looking for a more convenient lifestyle. (UNAM)

On the edge of the border with Belize, Bacalar presents the opportunity to live in closer harmony with nature than anywhere else in the state. The tradeoff, of course, is that there is significantly less in the way of creature comforts. This results in the second lowest score given to any of the destinations on the list (after Tulum), but do not let this mislead you — there is plenty to love about Bacalar.

While the overarching theme of our guide to Quintana Roo has been one of development, luxury and a loss of character, this is not the case in Bacalar. Known as the “Maldives of Mexico” for good reason, life around the lagoon strikes a delicate balance between respecting nature and providing a modern standard of living.

While fine dining and international airport access are in short supply, pristine waters, plenty of engaging activities and sense of peace abound in Bacalar.

Tulum

Tulum has been an icon of Quintana Roo (and Mexican tourism in general) for decades, but unfettered growth has ruined much of the charm that once attracted visitors. (Shutterstock)

Sitting adjacent to the remarkable Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve is Tulum, the two-headed (beachfront and inland city) place that may someday take over as Quintana Roo’s most troubling example of unfettered growth. Its Mayan archaeological site, silky Caribbean waters, and wellness-themed small hotels contend with becoming QR’s next pole for uncontrolled development and environmental impacts. The new international airport now provides connectivity. Anyone who’s lived here for more than a few years laments what’s gone wrong. But how can you deny the appeal of a place consistently named the best beach in The Americas? 

Also consider, your family and friends will find just about any reason to come down for a stay. You’ll need that spare bedroom. Where I live now in central Mexico, my kids have had enough. They all want to party in the Mexican Caribbean. Bringing compatible lifestyle intentions, many of those migrating here can’t imagine living elsewhere.

The ratings

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here.

Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com. Greg first visited Cancun in 1979. He has worked on behalf of Quintana Roo tourism marketing agencies for decades, allowing him to see what it has become: the good (great!) and the head-scratching “What happened?!”

An insider’s guide to the 5 best beaches along Costalegre, Jalisco

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Tenacatita, Costalegre best beaches
Now that many of Jalisco's beaches are super popular, why not plan an escape to the quiet paradise many of us first came in search of? (Playas Mexico)

If you’ve been to Puerto Vallarta’s beaches in the last few years, you’ve noticed one thing: they are all crowded. Tourism to Puerto Vallarta is higher than ever, with a total of 6 million visitors who arrived in 2023, which is up 10 percent from 2022. And while (for better or worse) business is booming in PV, it’s leaving much to be desired among beachgoers looking for peace and quiet and far fewer all-inclusive resorts.

But for the adventurous set who don’t mind a long drive in search of idyllic, untouched shorelines and more palm trees than people, the Costalegre has been providing a welcome respite from the rattle and hum of Puerto Vallarta’s now “big city” energy. We’ve combed the best beaches of the Costalegre to bring you this handy little guide to where to go for a slice of that slow life.

If this isn’t to your taste, why not head for the calm sands and empty shores of Costalegre? (Tripadvisor)

Where is the Costalegre?

The Costalegre is the stretch of coastline that runs south of Puerto Vallarta towards Manzanillo. These 150 miles are a paradise for nature lovers, peppered with rustic fishing villages, rimmed by mountains, and bordered by vast stretches of uninterrupted crashing Pacific shoreline.

Punta Perula

Sleepy Punta Perula offers visitors the chance for some quiet enjoyment of almost pristine beaches. (Tripadvisor)

Two and a half hours south of Puerto Vallarta, you’ll come to the turnoff for Punta Perula. A few minutes off the main road will put you along the dusty main road of this little village that borders the beach. Perula is a sleepy community, but that’s what locals and visitors love most about it. They also love the spectacular stretch of pristine shoreline that wraps around the Bahia de Chamela, where golden sand, gently rolling waves, and mountain ridge views set the scene for this idyllic paradise halfway down the Costalegre. 

While exploring Punta Perula, you can hire a panga to visit the islands in the Bahia de Chamela. One of the most popular island excursions is Isla Cocinas, an undeveloped island with a spectacular swath of white sand, perfect for sunbathing and snorkeling.

A handful of rustic, palapa-topped beachfront restaurants line the shorelines. Mariscos Chee Chee is one of the best for its fresh fish and shrimp, served at tables overlooking the beautiful beachfront. The guacamole is a must here. For casual pizza, visit Las Pérula, an open-air wood-fired pizza restaurant just off Avenida Independencia. 

Playa Careyitos

Playa Careyitos offers sun, food and luxury – as well as an unbelievable sunset. (Solycoco)

This small crescent-shaped beach is about five minutes south of the entrance to the Careyes community of villas, restaurants, and beaches. In fact, the two candy colored Ocean Castles that sit like sentries on the cliff tops at either end of the small bay are two of the most luxurious accommodations at Careyes. However, while the majority of the clientele at the beach is part of the Careyes community, Playa Careyitos is open to the public.

Stunning any time of day, I like going to this beach for sunset, when an orange glow is thrust across the golden sand and the sky explodes with swirling pink and purple. I love watching the fishermen return home for the day and park their boats on the sand by driving as far out into the bay as possible and cruising in at high speeds, flying across the sand to land perfectly in a row on the shore.

The boho chic beach club you see here is called Lilo, and while pricey, it is worth the splurge. Pizzas here are made in an Italian-imported wood-fired oven. The wine list is vetted, and the cocktails are sublime. 

Playa Grande, Arroyo Seco 

The rugged rocks of the Arroyo Seco make for a surfer’s paradise. (Michael Fitzgerald/Flickr)

And then there is Arroyo Seco — a very different kind of scene from Playa Careyitos, swapping a bougie beach scene for wild, rugged rock formations and a lonely restaurant made out of bamboo. Turning off of Highway 200, you’ll follow a long, weathered road out to the very small town of Arroyo Seco, population 400. Past the town the road spills out to a sprawling stretch of untamed shoreline, Playa Grande, where surfers come to answer the call of the churning Pacific’s gargantuan waves.

There isn’t much going on in Arroyo Seco, but that’s part of its magic and beauty. It’s a place for people who need no gimmicks or frills to simply enjoy the natural beauty of one of the best beaches in Costalegre. 

There is the Capacha Center, home to a turtle sanctuary and Military Macaw rehabilitation center. Captcha Center invites visitors and residents to participate in surfing, standup paddle boarding, biking, and birding.

Rojo Restaurant, a stunning beach house built entirely of bamboo, serves cocktails, cold beer, and fresh seafood. You can even rent two of its bungalows that sit directly on the beach.

Tenacatita

Visit Tenacatita before development strikes – it’s one of Costalegre’s best kept secrets but may not remain that way for long. (Playasde)

Turning off Highway 200, a very long road passes through the thick, palm shrouded villages and farmlands of villages like Agua Caliente de Apazulco and El Rebaslito de Apazulco. The drive is lengthy, but absolutely beautiful as you feel the main highway slip away behind you. At the end of the road, the view opens out to the running beaches of Tenacatita, a palm-fringed broad crescent strip with strings of ramshackle beach restaurants and bars. Sadly the area has been burdened with a land title dispute, which may threaten the undeveloped nature of the beach, but for now it remains one of the Costalegre’s best-kept secrets.

The energy here is lively and full of good vibes as music blares from underneath colorful umbrellas. Kids snorkel in the calm waters, while adults sip cold beer and snack on freshly caught seafood and oysters. Tenacatita is a far cry from a quiet beach, but it’s full of the spirit that most of us came to chase in Mexico in the first place. 

Boca de Iguanas

Camp under the stars at Boca de Iguanas after a hard day of eating some of the best seafood in Jalisco. (Playas Mexico)

Many visitors to Costalegre know the small (but growing) village of La Manzanilla, home to one of the best beaches in the state. The perfect spot here is at the north end of the bay, called Boca de Iguanas. The bright, soft sand here seems to stretch for miles, while a thick grove of palm trees adds a backdrop of vibrant green. Boca de Iguanas is popular for beach camping, but it also has lovely bungalows and villas scattered along the sand and up in the hills.

For entertainment and activity, La Manzanilla is a quick drive at the other end of the bay. The village is busy compared to other towns in the region, but that’s not saying much. The best things to do in La Manzanilla are to post up at a beach bar or restaurant and spend the day enjoying the ocean. I love Bahia Azul for its plump, juicy shrimp and colorful ceviche. It’s simple, fresh, and has beautiful beach views. 

Are there any of your best beaches in Costalegre that didn’t make the cut? Let us know in the comments.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

Choose your own adventure: A lover’s guide to 10 Mexico City date ideas

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A date skipping through the street
From daring dates to romantic reunions, Mexico City has everything a lover could need. Go heavy on the atmosphere, sensual on the movements or deep into the history at some of these incredible spots. (Tripadvisor)

They call Paris the city of love, but we beg to differ. With its mix of lush romantic greenery, poetic architecture and exquisite gastronomic delights, Mexico City takes the cake. Add a climate that delivers a cinematic flair —  oscillating between misty mornings, ripe sunny afternoons and balmy evenings — and you’ve got a backdrop worthy of a García Márquez novel. But where are the best dates in Mexico City to be found?

It’s not unusual to see lovebirds sharing a kiss — and sometimes more — on street corners all around the city, and it’s easy to see why. For the amorous and adventurous, CDMX offers infinite opportunities for unforgettable trysts. 

A couple kissing each other
The (very thin) air of the capital brings romance at every turn. (Alice Mortiz/Cuartoscuro)

Whether you’re wooing a new flame or rekindling an old one, we’ve compiled just a few curated date ideas that will set hearts aflutter, offering a hefty dose of fun, bonding and adventure — in whichever theme your heart desires.  

Late night fiesta

For those who believe love is best expressed through rhythm, CDMX’s nightlife awaits. Start with drinks at the jungle-like Jardin Paraiso, then slip into Patrick Miller, where disco never dies and the crowd — ranging from septuagenarians to Gen Z-ers — mingles to high-energy music. 

Or try Departamento, a speakeasy-style club where the beautiful people come to see and be seen — and occasionally even dance. If the weather is amenable, check out Supra Rooftop, where the crowd skews on the younger side, but the music is fire,  as the youngins say.

Literary liaisons

Cafebrería El Péndulo
Book lovers can read and romance at the same time, amongst the stacks of classic literature in El Péndulo. (El Péndulo/Facebook)

Grab a scholarly coffee together and impress your beau with your literary prowess at El Péndulo, a bookshop-cum-café with locations all around the city, where you can browse tomes and pretend you’ve actually read Octavio Paz. Then, conduct your own walking tour through some of the city’s coolest alternative bookstores

For a true architectural biblio-paradise, venture to the Biblioteca Vasconcelos, a mega library that looks like something out of a dystopian sci-fi novel. Pro tip: Link hands under the suspended whale bones as you gaze up in awe for extra points.

Tacubaya trysts

Museo casa de la bola
Museo Casa de la Bola offers foreign fancy for dates. (cdmx.gob)

For a truly unique experience, visit the Museo Casa de la Bola in Tacubaya. This 18th-century mansion, once owned by Antonio Haghenbeck y de la Lama, a Mexican businessman with impeccable taste, houses an eclectic collection of European and Mexican art and antiques. 

Stroll through the estate’s lush, leafy gardens dotted with Greek statues and bond over its curious mix of architectural styles and interiors. As you wander through the rooms, each more sumptuous than the last, play a game of “If we lived here” with your date. Who knows? It might just spark some domestic fantasies of your own. 

After your foray into Mexico City’s gilded past, take a walk through Parque Lira next door, where you can switch gears and watch skateboarders tear it up on the park’s skate ramps.

Lights, camera, attraction

Cineteca Nacional in Coyoacan
Film snobs can smooch in front of the big screen. (Cineteca Nacional/Facebook)

Ditch Netflix and chill for something more cinematic. Mexico City is home to an endless number of niche and commercial theaters of all size ranges and comfort levels, with distinct amenities. The Cineteca Nacional in Coyoacán offers a curated selection of arthouse and classic films in a striking modernist setting. 

For a more intimate experience, try Cine Tonalá in Roma Sur, where you can enjoy indie flicks and craft beer in a cozy atmosphere. Cinemex Platino theaters in the city offer the most comfy and private experience, while Cinepolis and Cinemex Imax theaters around the city offer more immersive viewing, giving you the excuse to clutch at your date during a particularly action-packed scene. 

Salsa sensuousness

 

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Channel your inner Antonio Banderas or Salma Hayek with salsa or bachata classes in beautiful Parque México. Grupo Esencia offers a chance to spice up your midweek with Bachata lessons every Wednesday at 6:30 p.m. On Saturdays and Sundays, they’ll have you swaying your hips to salsa at 12 p.m., followed by bachata at 1 p.m. Just show up, no pre-registration necessary. 

Whether you’re a dance floor diva or have two left feet, just remember: it’s not about perfection, it’s about connection. And maybe a little hip action. Liquid courage is available from nearby mezcal carts. In the evening, test your salsa skills at Mama Rumba in Roma Norte, which offers an uncrowded dance floor and a live band.

Rhythm & romance

Embrace some sensuous saxophone with a night of live music at Jazzatlán. (Jazzatlán/Facebook)

More touristy suggestions would have you heading to Casa Franca for some jazz, but we prefer Jazzatlán, an intimate hidden gem with better access to stage views, where the city’s best jazz musicians come to jam

For a more clandestine rendezvous, slip into Parker & Lenox, a sophisticated speakeasy-style jazz bar that channels 1920s New York with a Mexican twist. Hidden behind an inconspicuous American restaurant façade, this velvet-draped den serves up classic cocktails as smooth as the jazz floating from its stage. Arrive early to snag a cozy booth, and let the tunes transport you to the Gatsby era. 

Foodie flings

A mole dish by Pujol restaurant in Mexico City.
For some culinary courting, why not try one of Mexico City’s best eateries? (Pujol)

Surprise your palate — and your date — with Mexico City’s brilliant culinary offerings. Indulge in an omakase experience at Rokai, where the sushi rivals Tokyo’s finest. Yes, we said sushi in Mexico City. Trust us on this one. 

If you’re looking to impress, head to Enrique Olvera’s Pujol, which offers an omakase-style taco bar. This is just a rumor, but we’ve heard that Pujol’s mole madre, aged over 2,500 days, has aphrodisiac properties. 

For a more adventurous and decidedly more Mexican date, consult our meticulously curated list of the best tacos in Mexico City and embark on a taco-hopping expedition. And remember, a couple that can handle habanero salsa together, stays together.

Flexible flirtations

Yoga
Yoga makes for a mystical meeting with your date – try Luna Studio for a touch of magic. (Luna Studio/Facebook)

For those who like their romance with a side of om, studios like Mukta Yoga in Condesa and Luna Studio in La Juárez offer relaxing candle lit classes that will have you bending in ways you never thought possible. Feel the tension melt away as you stretch and breathe in sync with your partner. Then let the flickering flames cast a flattering glow, as you sink further into downward dog. 

Afterward, try some of those new moves at home. Maybe that “happy baby” pose will come in handy, or perhaps you’ll find a creative use for those yoga blocks. We won’t judge.

Libations & love 

Casa Prunes
Dazzle your date by pretending you know about alcohol at Casa Prunes. (Opentable)

Impress your date with your knowledge of obscure spirits at Casa Prunes, a cocktail bar set in a gorgeous Art Nouveau mansion. Sip on innovative concoctions while pretending you’re extras in a Wes Anderson film. Don’t forget to dramatically pose on the grand staircase. 

You can also take a more elevated cocktail bar hop through the list of Mexico City bars awarded the honor of the World’s Best Bars of 2023, or for a more casual after-work romantic warm up, check out our guide to happy hour in Mexico City.

Artful excursions

Lago Algo gallery
Art, architecture and amor meet at Lago Algo. (cdmx.gob)

For the active and aesthetically-inclined, Tours en Bici offers architectural neighborhood bike tours with stops at renowned galleries throughout the city. Take in some of the stunning neighborhood gems and the artistic treasures they hold, then walk off the sore bike bum with a trip to Lago Algo, a stunning gallery in the heart of Chapultepec Park. At Lago Algo’s restaurant bar overlooking a beautiful lake, toast to your cultural sophistication and discuss conceptual art while gazing at the sunset.

There you have it, lovebirds. Ten fabulous date plans in Mexico City. Now go forth and fall in love — just remember to pace yourselves with the mezcal. After all, you want to remember these moments, don’t you? 

What have you done on your favorite dates in Mexico City? Let us know in the comments.

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.

What if everyone benefits from nearshoring in Mexico except Mexicans?

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A maquiladora factory in Tijuana
What will be the real benefits from nearshoring for Mexicans? Is there a risk of a repeat of the maquiladoras (like this one in Tijuana) offering low-wage and low-quality jobs? Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek explores these questions. (Cuartoscuro)

What if everyone benefits from nearshoring in Mexico except Mexicans?

It was precisely this question that got me thinking and doing some research into the possibility of such a bold statement.

I am the first to admit that I am a big fan of measuring and celebrating foreign direct investment (FDI) in Mexico.

In the simplest terms, more FDI means more jobs, more jobs mean more people in the formal economy, more people in the formal economy means better benefits for workers and a bigger tax base for the government. The government having a bigger tax base means more money to improve schools, hospitals, infrastructure, etc. Although that is all true, it misses an important point.

Let’s take an example.

Mexico today has a thriving shoe industry owned by Mexican companies. Imagine for a moment that a Chinese shoe company decides to invest US $100 million in Mexico to build a state-of-the-art shoe factory. As mentioned earlier, there is a tendency to celebrate these kinds of new FDI announcements (especially by local governments who compete to get the investment by offering incentives). It is true that this Chinese investment would result in more temporary (construction workers building the factory) and permanent (factory workers) jobs.

That’s great. But let’s look at the bigger picture. That Chinese factory might be so competitive that it ultimately results in job losses at the Mexican-owned shoe companies — maybe even to the extent that they go out of business.

In this example, there might be a net zero of new jobs created, or even a net negative if the new Chinese factory comes with improved automation requiring less human labor. That Chinese factory might encourage its suppliers to come from China to Mexico — resulting in more FDI, but potentially resulting in even more job losses at Mexican shoe factories.

If the Mexican shoe company is able to compete and stay in business, Mexico is getting net job creation from the new Chinese factory. However, the profits generated by the Chinese plant most likely will go back to the parent company in China (versus staying in Mexico with a Mexican company). If Chinese companies invest in Mexico and ultimately displace the local industry, will Mexico and Mexicans be better off? Workers will now work for Chinese companies instead of Mexican companies. Profits will no longer stay in Mexico. How is Mexico truly benefiting beyond basic manufacturing jobs?

This argument has been made in terms of the FDI in the maquiladoras on the US-Mexico border. Companies from around the world poured investment into Mexico to take advantage of cheap, semi-skilled labor and proximity to the United States. Arguably, Mexico and most Mexicans did not benefit as much as they should have. There are lots of jobs there, but most are low-pay, low-skill assembly plants.

But the world is very different now.

The world has just witnessed a massive 30+ year-case study with China. Mexico now has an advantage not seen in decades as supply chain concerns force companies to look to move manufacturing closer to their home markets. Mexico can and should expect more than just low-skill job creation. It should expect higher value jobs to come with the manufacturing — jobs in engineering, research & development, information technology, marketing, etc.

Mexico should expect that a significant portion of profits are kept and reinvested in the country. Mexico should expect that management positions are filled with local Mexicans. Mexico should now know that simply moving low-skill assembly plants from China to Mexico alone will not make a significant impact over the medium and long term. The data on that is clear.

I see an increasing number of Mexican government officials understanding and talking about this — including several cabinet members recently named in President-elect Sheinbaum’s administration.

The Mexican government can and must do its part with the right mix of tax incentives, with tariffs where appropriate, and with coordination of policies between the Mexican, U.S. and Canadian governments.

But even if government officials do their part, ultimately Mexican business leaders have to step up and take advantage of the opportunity. Will they? Can they?

Stay tuned for my column next week about my interview of a young Mexican business leader stepping up to the challenge — creating a business that will help Mexicans maximize their benefits from nearshoring.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

Celebrate Mexico’s strawberry capital with this whipped cream pie

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Strawberry pie
Did you know Mexico produces some of the world's best strawberries? Celebrate Irapuato with this delicious strawberry pie recipe. (aheadofthyme.com)

Ahh… Crème de la crème! Something superlative… and can there be anything better than the fruits, vegetables, meats, fish and dairy that we experience in Mexico? These are the awesome foods that make up the culinary delights that we prepare daily for the ones we love. And what delights they are! While it’s not an ingredient that many associate with Mexico, the strawberries here are fantastic. To enjoy them best, I find this strawberry pie recipe really hits the spot.

Naturally, being American, I miss the desserts I’m used to, but I’ve learned to adapt the recipes and make them better because of the surprising quality of food in Mexico. Always fresh (San Miguel, where I live part time, is surrounded by farms that produce amazing fruits and vegetables). The same can be said for Playa del Carmen, where I spend the other part of the year when not in San Miguel. 

Fruits and vegetables at a market in Mexico
Mexico’s fruit and vegetable offerings are outstanding and deserve to be celebrated properly. (Shutterstock)

My husband, Mark, and I are “early eaters” and it’s amazing to sit at a restaurant in PDC around 5 p.m. and watch the local farmers bring their crates of fresh-grown produce into an eatery.  Amazing, considering that in the U.S., the average distance produce travels between the farm and your plate is about 1500 miles (whether organic or conventional). Freshness, when it comes to produce, is everything! And here, freshness seems to be around every Mexican corner. 

Strawberry fields forever

Now let’s talk about strawberries (or, as they’re known in Mexico, fresas)! Iraputo, located in Guanajuato, is Mexico’s strawberry capital and is the second most populated city in the state, following León. In 1852, Don Nicolás Tejada brought 24 strawberry plants to Irapuato from France, which marked the beginning of a very lucrative industry that peaked in the 1960s. Although other cities now surpass Iraputo in strawberry production, the importance of the fresa will never be a passing memory in the hearts of the Irapuatenses, who celebrate “The Festival de la Fresa” yearly. You can even complete “The Route of the Strawberry” and pick baskets of the luscious little gems to take home.

The Festival de las Fresas in Irapuato. (Feria de las Fresas Irapuato/Facebook)

The town of Iraputo is lovely and distinctive and is a “must visit” if you live nearby. It’s full of history from the earliest Chichimecas (nomadic peoples), who resided there until about 1200 AD when the Spanish arrived in the 1500s. The place is fascinating and boasts one of the oldest churches in Mexico, the Templo del Hospitalito, first constructed in about 1570 and completed in the early 1800s, its original name was Temple of the Hospital of Our Lady of Mercy of the Tarascan Indians. 

So what do we make with these lovely, luscious fresh fresas? My first instinct is a fresa pie (without gelatin), which is a perfect summer delight. Top it with some Tequila whipped cream and give it a go!

Fresh strawberry pie topped with tequila whipped cream recipe

Why not hold your own strawberry festival with this incredible pie? Recipe adapted from Ahead of Thyme. (aheadofthyme.com)

Ingredients

1 single 9-inch pie crust

5 cups (1000g) fresh strawberries (fresas), hulled and halved.

NOTE: Always clean berries (any type) to remove most pesticides in a solution of 1 tsp. baking soda per 2 cups cold water. Let sit for 12-15 minutes. Swish gently mid-way through. Rinse in cold water. Dry completely before using or storing.

½ cup (100g) granulated sugar (azúcar estándar)

1 teaspoon (5 ml) vanilla extract (extracto de vanilla)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) lemon juice (jugo de limón) *Please use fresh.

½ teaspoon (2.5ml) lemon zest (limón rallado)

¼ cup  (60ml) cornstarch (maicena)

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 400F (204C).

Prepare the pie dough. Roll out the pie dough and place into a 9-inch pie dish. Gently press down and trim any excess dough from the sides. Use a fork or your fingers to crimp the edges. 

Blind bake the crust for 20 minutes until the edges turn golden brown. (To help the crust stay in place while baking, you can fill with pie weights [or with dried beans, dried rice, granulated sugar, or popcorn kernels] for the first 10 minutes, and then remove). Once baked, transfer onto a wire rack and cool completely.

Make the strawberry glaze. While the crust is baking, prepare the strawberry glaze by adding 2 cups strawberries to a medium saucepan. Use a fork to mash the strawberries. Then add sugar, vanilla, lemon juice, lemon zest, and cornstarch. Stir well until well combined and bring to a simmer over medium heat until thickened to a desired consistency, about 5 minutes. (Do not use high heat to cook the glaze and stir constantly to make sure the mixture is cooked evenly.) Set aside and let cool for 15 minutes.

Assemble the filling. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the remaining 3 cups of strawberries with the cooled strawberry glaze and toss well to coat evenly.

Assemble the pie. Carefully transfer the strawberry mixture into the pie crust and refrigerate for 2-3 hours (or longer) until the filling is set completely.

Slice and serve with a dollop of Tequila Whipped Cream (we are in Mexico, after all!).

Tequila Whipped Cream

Tequila whipped cream
Add a Mexican splash to your whipped cream with some tequila. Recipe adapted from catfishoutofwater.com. (Shore Craft Beer)

Ingredients

1 cup (240ml) heavy whipping cream (crema para batir)

¼ cup (60ml) powdered sugar (azúcar glasé)

1 ½ (22ml) TBS Tequila *don’t use more!

Instructions

Place all ingredients in a bowl and whip with an electric hand mixer until stiff peaks form. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Make sure to love every bite!

If you enjoyed my strawberry pie recipe, why not let me know in the comments?

Disfruta!  

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of many mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits, to make life so much more pleasurable, less stressful and unharried.



13 of Mexico City’s oldest (and coolest) cantinas for your next bar crawl

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Cantina in Mexico City
From revolution to philosophy, Mexico City's cantinas have seen it all. You can too, and there might even be a free buffet. (Salón España/Facebook)

You’re out for a drink (or three) in Mexico City and on the prowl for the best cantinas. The very best, steeped in history, culture and tequila. But does anyone even know what the word cantina means? To be honest, it doesn’t seem so. There are several theories behind its origins, all of which come back to an Italian word referring to a wine dispensary.

Which fits the mold. A cantina, as it’s known here in Mexico, is an ol’ fashioned bar with noticeably bad lighting that serves up your favorite tequila with a side of potato chips dripping in lime juice and salsa botanera.

Don Aureliano Martínez serves a couple of drinks at “Tío Pepe’s” bar. (Misael Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)

Where did cantinas come from and how did they become so ingrained in Mexican culture? The alcohol-infused hideouts began to surface at the turn of the 19th century as a place to relax with a drink and a bite while listening to classic Mexican music. You and your friends could play cards or discuss politics to your heart’s content with no time limit. Rumor has it that after three drinks, food was free and bountiful. It kept coming, as did the tipples – even if you were falling over, it was rare that a bartender would ever stop serving you.

There was just one rule.

You had to be a man to enter. Unless you were a man in uniform. Then you’d get the boot, along with your dog, as canines weren’t allowed in, either.

Were the drinks unlimited because no women were allowed? Or were no women allowed because of the unlimited drinks? Whether it was the chicken or the egg, the fact is that the statue remained in place for over a century. In 1982, 110 years after the first documented cantina El Nivel opened in Mexico City, women were finally granted entry into Mexico’s mysterious, smoky, historical haunts.

And even though they’re a dying breed, there are many that still remain.

The cantina “El Nivel,” inaugurated in 1857, was the first cantina licensed to operate in Mexico City. It was located on the corner of Moneda and Seminario streets. (Memórica México/Facebook)

The next time you get the urge to knock back three drinks and tuck into endless tacos, forgo that fancy bar in Roma and take a step back in time at one of the capital’s oldest cantinas.

La Peninsular 

Year opened: 1872

Address: Peatonal Alhondiga 26, Centro 

If El Nivel is the oldest cantina in Mexico City according to its city license registration, La Peninsular is the second oldest. Both opened the same year, only one is still standing. Even though it was remodelled in 2013, it has held on to some traditional elements, including the dirty, old-school advertisements on the walls. Legend has it that Pancho Villa would escape here while in town during the Revolution. 

El Gallo de Oro

Year opened: 1874

Address: Calle Violeta 1, Centro

Its location on a bustling corner of Centro is perhaps the reason The Golden Rooster attracted the likes of Guillermo Prieto, Justo Sierra, and Juan de Dios Peza once upon a time. There’s a story that it was also the meeting point for Spanish exiles who fled to Mexico during Spain’s Civil War. It’s old and a little depressing, just the way it should be.

La Jalisciense

Year opened: 1870

Address: Avenida Montevideo 518, San Bartolo Atepehuacán

It won’t surprise you to find out the original owners hailed from Jalisco. Expect a traditional atmosphere complete with a mahogany bar, wooden tables, and plenty of historical photographs of the cantina’s past and its patrons, including Renato Leduc, the great Mexican poet. On Fridays, they serve paella.

Tío Pepe


Year opened: 1890

Address: Corner of Dolores and Independencia, Barrio Chino, Centro 

Beneath an original sign that states “Entrance is forbidden to minors, women and street vendors”, all are now welcomed warmly. It’s a cozy and classic bar and, some like to say, was the underground gathering point for the Gang of the Gray Car. The infamous group of thieves would don police uniforms and use fake search warrants to rob wealthy families before jumping into their gray getaway car. 

La Potosina

Year opened: 1890

Address: Calle José María Pino Suárez 27, Centro 

Walk yourself right on by the Santa Muerte statue out front and enter the cantina where Che Guevara and Pancho Villa were said to sip in between revolutionary activities. Take in your share of local bevies while chowing down on the mountainous snacks that come with each drink order. If you get the drunken urge to shop for mostly useless tchotchkies, the street is decked to the nines with vendors.

Cantina La Castellana 

Year opened: 1892

Address: Antonio Caso #58, San Rafael

Officially La Castellan opened as a grocery store and transformed into a cantina in 1914. Within its walls have been many famous visitors. The celebrated composer Álvaro Carrillo is said to have written many of his hits here, while Pablo Neruda came to discuss “literature and communism”. While you might not run into modern celebrities anymore, you will receive free access to the buffet if you spend 450 pesos on drinks.

Bar La Opera 

Bar La Opera
Bar La Opera, once the haunt of some of Mexico City’s most important luminaries. (Facebook)

Year opened: 1895

Address: Calle 5 de Mayo 10, Centro

The list of famous patrons that once frequented the elegant Bar La Opera is a long and lustrous one, and it includes Don Porfirio Díaz and his wife, Carlos Fuentes, and Octavio Paz. Though none caused quite the stir that Pancho Villa once did when he supposedly fired his pistol into the ceiling. While Villa is long gone, it’s said that the bullet hole still remains.

La Faena 

Year opened: Early 1900s

Address: Calle Venustiano Carranza 49 B, Centro

Part cantina, part bullfighting museum, La Faena’s opening date is as mysterious as its ambience. And that’s what you’re here for — a deep contemplation of the encased matador costumes and vintage posters that surround you, while enjoying high quality tequila and copious snacks. If you’re lucky, a lonesome mariachi band might just stumble in to entertain you in exchange for a handful of pesos.

Salon España 

Year opened: 1915

Address: Luis González Obregón 25, at República de Argentina

There are almost 200 types of tequila behind the long wooden bar. If that’s not a selling point in itself, they boast the best botana in Centro and stick to the traditional cantina style — three drinks will get you the dish of the day, which can be anything from tacos to tortas to tuna sandwiches. 

El Dux de Venecia

Year opened: 1918

Address: Avenida Azcapotzalco 586A, Centro de Azcapotzalco

In the late 1800’s, a Venetian salesman arrived in Mexico. He opened a shop in Azcapotzalco, then a pueblo on the periphery of the historical center. In the shop, he sold European goods and alcoholic drinks until his return to Italy at the start of the revolution. Enrique Escandón took over, adding tables and sandwiches for the patrons to enjoy with a drink. The location changed in the ‘40s but the vibe remains very much the same.

Salón Tenampa

Salón Tenampa
Salón Tenampa is a riot of color and music, beloved by artists from across the city. (Instagram)

Year opened: 1925

Address: Plaza Garibaldi 12, Centro

It’s loud, it’s colorful, it’s cliche, and it’s completely ridiculous. In other words, it cannot be missed. There are no less than 5 mariachi bands belting out dramatic corridos at any given moment. Pedro Infante filmed here, Chavela Vargas sang here, and Luis Miguel drank here. What more could you want from a memorable night out in Mexico City?

La Única de Guerrero

Year opened: 1933

Address: Guerrero 258, Buenavista

For over 80 years this cantina, recognized by Mexico City as a Cultural Heritage icon, has kept its original decor and ambiance. Feel familiar? It’s been in the background of several movies and may have been the inspiration behind the cantina mentioned in Juan Rulfo’s “Pedro Páramo”. 

Cantina La Perla

Year opened: Possibly 1942, unable to verify

Address: Calle Eligio Ancona 283

I once walked by this cantina with a Mexican friend while the waiter was arranging the sidewalk sign. It was around noon on a Tuesday, a bit early to toss back a mezcal, but curiosity forced us to peer inside. Dark and moody, as expected. “The food is usually pretty good,” the waiter informed us in Spanish. I still laugh when I think of it.

Bottoms up!

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.