From the ancient chinampería system to centuries-old religious complexes, Mexico City preserves some of its Pre-Columbian neighborhoods practically untouched. These are some of the most iconic. (Isaac Esquivel Monroy/Cuartoscuro)
When anthropologist Andrey Núñez was working on an analysis of language use in Mexico City with the University of the Cloister of Sor Juana (UCSJ) in 2018, he and colleagues visited a public school in the Milpa Alta borough of the capital. There, he noticed a remarkable thing; The children wrote graffiti on their desks in Náhuatl. “Juan es un xólotl,” one read. Juan is a little devil.
Náhuatl was the official language of the Mexica Empire, which reached its peak during the second half of the 15th century in present-day Mexico, and was dominant until the Spanish conquest in A.D. 1521. So, how come children speak this language in present-day Mexico City? Part of the reason is that the Mexican capital preserves some of its Pre-Columbian neighborhoods, centuries after these ancient civilizations fell.
Milpa Alta plantations (Milpa Alta)
For years, the Momoxcas joined the people of Xochimilco in their fight to defend their territories from the Mexica invasion in the Valley of Mexico. (Julio Barquera Alvarado/Wikimedia Commons)
According to the Institute of Statistics and Geography’s (INEGI)latest figures, nearly 40,000 Mexicans in Mexico City speak Náhuatl as their mother tongue today. As Núñez and his team found in the study, in boroughs like Milpa Alta, in the southeast of the capital, children learn Spanish in school, but speak to each other and their families in their native tongue.
This is a testament to their Pre-Columbian heritage. Asthe National Institute of Indigenous Peoples (INPI) documents, the Momoxcas inhabited these mountainous lands before the Conquest, and created strong commercial networks between the Valley of Mexico and present-day Morelos state. Their city-state, Malacachtépec Momoxco, was famous for its veneration of the surrounding hills, “a sacredness that many Milpaltenses [still] confer on the hills today.”
Barrio de San Juan (Xochimilco)
The cult of Niñopa is still one of the most representative religious celebrations of the Xochimilco borough. (Rodolfo Angulo/Cuartoscuro)
Religious syncretism is alive and present in most boroughs in Mexico City. Xochimilco features some of the best examples of how this cultural phenomenon combines the tradition ofmedieval Christianity and Mesoamerican roots, saysUNAM anthropologist Andrés Medina Hernández. This phenomenon is crystallized in the Barrio de San Juan for the localveneration of the Niñopa. That being a sacred figurine that embodies the cult of child Huitzilopochtli and baby Jesus. Actually, per the Ministry of Culture, the word Niñopa comes from “Niño-Padre:” the “Father-Child,” alluding to the fact that baby Jesus is also God.
On Christmas Day and Día de la Candelaria, local people host parties exclusively for this sacred child — made of palo de colorín wood and carved in the 16th century — during which they offer him toys, traditional baby garments, candy and other treats Xochimilca children have enjoyed for centuries.
Cerro de la Estrella (Iztapalapa)
Once the birthplace of the god Huitzilopochtli, today Cerro de la Estrella in the Iztapalapa borough serves as the setting for the traditional Via Crucis performance during the Easter holidays. (Cuartoscuro)
A millennium ago, recalls the Institute of Historical Research (IIH) at UNAM, Cerro de la Estrella “was conceived as an image of the mythical hill, the origin of migrations and the birthplace of deities.” Originally referred to as Colhuacaltépetl, it was thought to be the birthplace of the Mexica God of War, Huitzilopochtli.
Today, the Iztapalapa borough is an industrial hub east of Mexico City. Its religious importance has not diminished, however. Local people perform ayearly Via Crucis representation during the Easter holidays in Cerro de la Estrella, commemorating Jesus’ crucifixion and death. Once again, the figure of Jesus seems to overlap with ancient representations of Huitzilopochtli, as deities that the inhabitants of Mexico City have historically worshipped.
Calzada de los Misterios (Gustavo A. Madero)
Millions of pilgrims from around the country visit the Basilica of Guadalupe, on Tepeyac Hill, to pay respects to the “Morenita,” an affectionate yet respectful nickname for the Virgin of Guadalupe. (Misael Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)
Formerly referred to as Calzada del Tepeyac, honoring the mountain that gives it its name, this was one of the main avenues that connected Tenochtitlán with an important religious site dedicated to the mother goddess, Tonantzin. From Náhuatl, meaning “our Mother,” this deity was later used by the Conquistadors to implant the Catholic faith in present-day Mexico, and turned her into theVirgin of Guadalupe. It is no coincidence that, today, Calzada de los Misterios leads to her sanctuary, receiving over 12 million pilgrims a year, per the government of Mexico City.
Zócalo (Cuauhtémoc)
We may not perform human sacrifices in the main square today, but the Zocaló remains the center of life in Mexico City. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)
We dwellers of Mexico City like to talk to our ancient gods. Despite our heavy Catholic/Colonial heritage, we often thank Tláloc for bountiful rainy seasons in pop culture. This, again, is no coincidence. Where the Zócalo stands today, once stood the most impressive religious compound in Mesoamerica. Consisting of two main pyramids, one dedicated to Huitzilopochtil and the other to Tláloc, the Templo Mayor complex was “the center of political and religious life of Mexican society,” notes INAH.
As both a civic and religious center, it had a Huey Tzompantli: Tenochtitlán’s great wall of skulls. This building was “intended to house the skulls of individuals sacrificed both in the Great Temple and in the ball court in various ceremonies,” according to Arqueología Mexicana. No wonder that when in the Zócalo, if you pay close attention, you can still hear the Creation god, Quetzalcóatl, slither by.
Returning to her hometown in rural Durango after a lifetime away, Rocio Cadena discovered a modern, vibrant community in an area of Mexico she thought she'd moved on from. (Rocio Lucero)
They say home is where the heart is, and I agree — though in today’s globalized world, the idea of home feels more complicated than that. I spent my childhood in a rancho in Durango. Not a lone ranch house, but a small, rural village of about 50 homes and 150 people. At 12, I moved with my family to the Chicagoland area, where my parents and siblings still live. Now I’m based in Mexico City. If home is where the heart is, then mine is in three places.
The long road to Santa Rosa
There’s more to the state of Durango than might first appear. (Rocio Lucero)
In July, I returned to Santa Rosa, my first home, after four years away. My parents go back each summer, and my older brother brings his family, too. I wanted to coincide with them. The usually sleepy ranchería comes alive in June, July, and August, then again in December. Weddings, quinceañeras, horse races, coleaderas, cabalgatas — the calendar fills fast. But first, you have to get there.
And getting there is no small feat. The “convenient” route is flying into Durango’s capital city, then driving five to six hours, with the last three on rough roads. Sedans don’t stand a chance — if it’s rained recently, they’ll get stuck in the mud. A sturdy truck is the only way.
Another option is to drive from the U.S. My family did this for years after moving to Chicago. We’d load up the car, spend three days on the road, and stop at roadside motels on the U.S. side for two nights before finally crossing into Mexico through Ojinaga, Chihuahua. My brother still does this journey at least twice a year.
Then there’s the El Paso route, popular with many families. You fly into El Paso, cross into Ciudad Juárez, and catch the overnight bus — twelve hours to Santa María del Oro, the nearest town to Santa Rosa. From there, it’s still a two-hour drive. However you arrive, the journey is long, uncomfortable, and often exhausting. It usually takes days just to recover.
Rancho life, seen anew
But once there, it’s worth it. Santa Rosa is rugged and remote, tucked among mountains and desert. Durango’s semi-arid climate usually means scorching summers, but this year was different. Heavy rains had transformed the land. Rivers brimmed, creeks ran strong, and everywhere I looked, grass and vegetation replaced the usual muted desert tones. I was astonished — it was the greenest I’d ever seen.
While the popular image of Durango is arid desert, the state is much greener than that. (Rocio Lucero)
Returning as an adult, I see things I once overlooked. Most families here live off cattle and remittances. Horses and cows dominate the landscape. As a child, I never grasped how relentless life as a farmer really is. My father still raises cattle, and during my ten-day stay, I watched him work from dawn to dusk — feeding, vaccinating and guarding pastures. At 72, he still mounts his horse daily, looking after his herd like a true old-school cowboy-ranchero.
Another observation: some ranchos that were practically ghost towns 20 years ago are now thriving. La Noria, for example, used to have very few people. This summer, I was shocked to see it transformed — with arches welcoming visitors into the rancho and homes remodeled and freshly painted. My parents explained that many of those who left to work in the U.S. decades ago have now retired and chosen to return and spend their golden years here.
This pattern is common. Families may leave for 20 or 30 years, working tough jobs in the U.S., but if they’re documented, they come back in the summers and winters. That’s when rancherías like Santa Rosa come to life. Fiestas, cabalgatas, and weddings are often scheduled around these visits, so locals and returnees can celebrate together.
Even my U.S.-born nephews feel the pull. From seven-year-old Oscar Jr. to 18-year-old Christian, they ask to come back every year. Watching them embrace the land moved me. If I have kids one day, I’ll make sure they carry that same connection.
Beauty and risk
Modernity has reached Santa Rosa in its own way. Wifi arrived a few years ago, though electricity and cell service can still be unreliable. While I was there, the power went out for 24 hours, and reception was so spotty you could forget about depending on your phone. Unplugging is still easy — sometimes, unavoidable.
Remote communities, difficult roads and inclement conditions make getting around rural Durango a challenge — if not outright dangerous. (El Sol de Durango)
But rancho life also comes with danger. In summer 2024, a family of three drowned while trying to cross a river swollen with rain. The father, confident he could make it across in his truck with his wife and three-month-old baby, didn’t survive. A couple of years ago, an older couple driving down from the U.S. veered off a cliff and died. A relative of mine recently fell from a horse and spent weeks in a coma. These tragedies sound like scenes from a particularly unlikely movie, but they’re part of everyday reality here.
Cultural norms can surprise outsiders, too. At parties, most men wear guns strapped to their belts, firing them in the air when a popular corrido plays. I don’t share this to glorify or condemn — it’s simply part of life in this corner of northern Mexico. With little to no police presence, it’s the Wild West in some ways. For many men, a gun is part of the outfit, along with the hat, boots, and belt.
Returning to my roots
Visiting Santa Rosa unlocks something new within me each time. My trip to the place where I spent my childhood evoked a myriad of emotions and themes — nostalgia, pride, joy, roots, heritage, and the concept of home(s).
When I was a college student at UIC-Chicago, I took a class on Latin American Studies. I had a distinguished Mexican-American professor, probably in his 40s or 50s, who shared an anecdote: growing up, he rejected his parents’ love of norteño music and leaned into hip-hop, wanting nothing to do with what his parents played. But as he got older, something shifted — he started craving the music of his childhood. He returned to his roots. I remember finding that story fascinating and wondering how it might relate to me later in life.
I was never ashamed of where I came from, but I did feel indifferent, more focused on bigger, better places. Leaving the village opened the world to me, and I wanted to see it all. That led me to study abroad in Italy during college and live in South Korea for two years in my 20s.
Now, though, I feel a fondness and pride for Durango that has taken years to surface but is now firmly rooted. Whenever I go to Garibaldi in Mexico City, I enjoy mariachi — but what I really crave is norteño music, especially old-school corridos.
I will always carry in my heart the place where I spent my childhood. In many ways, it completes the triangle of my life — Durango, Chicago, and Mexico City. Three homes that shaped me, each in its own way. And I’m already looking forward to returning to the first one, Santa Rosa, in December.
Rocio is a Mexican-American writer based in Mexico City. She was born and raised in a small village in Durango and moved to Chicago at age 12, a bicultural experience that shapes her lens on life in Mexico. She’s the founder of CDMX IYKYK, a newsletter for expats, digital nomads, and the Mexican diaspora, and Life of Leisure, a women’s wellness and spiritual community.
A reporter from the newspaper El Universal asked the president whether it was a "coincidence" that a "marine allegedly linked to fuel theft" was killed during a live fire exercise on Tuesday. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)
The current situation of two Mexican banks that are accused by the U.S. government of money laundering and the deaths of two members of the Mexican Navy were among the issues discussed at President Claudia Sheinbaum’s Wednesday morning press conference.
Here is a recap of the president’s Sept. 10 mañanera.
Intercam and CIBanco are ‘operating normally,’ says finance minister
The other alleged money launderers are CIBanco and Vector, a brokerage firm.
Amador said that the trust division of CIBanco has been transferred to “another institution,” namely Multiva.
In June, just after the United States publicly leveled its accusations against Intercam, CIBanco and Vector, the Mexican government took temporary control of the three entities.
Amador said that the “intervention” at Vector is proceeding “normally.”
“… Everything is proceeding normally, the payment system, the banks are operating normally,” he said.
“… We’re even about to analyze [the possibility of] ending the interventions, but everything is proceeding normally,” Amador said.
More than 70% of Intercam and CIBanco customers who responded to a Mexico News Daily poll last month said they weren’t able to use their accounts normally.
Sheinbaum said that her government hasn’t received anything from U.S. authorities to support their accusation against Intercam, CIBanco and Vector.
Amador said that there is no “reliable evidence” supporting the claim that the three financial institutions were involved in money laundering for cartels.
Sheinbaum rebukes reporter after question about the death of a marine
A reporter from the newspaper El Universal asked the president whether it was a “coincidence” that a “marine allegedly linked to fuel theft” was killed during a live fire exercise on Tuesday.
The death of the marine in Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, came a day after a navy captain was found dead in Altamira, Tamaulipas. The cause of the navy captain’s death was suicide, authorities said.
On Wednesday morning, the president scolded the El Universal reporter for the way he framed his question.
“With all respect to you and the media outlet you represent, the way you’re asking that question doesn’t seem right to me, not for the victim nor for what happened,” Sheinbaum said.
“Don’t you think it’s a coincidence?” she said, paraphrasing the reporter and pointing out the part of his question that she didn’t agree with.
“An investigation has to be conducted. So far, it appears to have been an accident, but an investigation has to be conducted,” Sheinbaum said.
“… The first case was a regrettable suicide,” she said, adding that Attorney General Alejandro Gertz Manero said Tuesday that the navy captain “wasn’t even linked to investigations” into a fuel smuggling scheme in Tamaulipas.
“His name appeared in the media and this person decided to take his life. Obviously, an investigation has to be conducted,” Sheinbaum said.
“What happened yesterday, until now, appears [to have been] an accident,” she reiterated, before telling the reporter that she wouldn’t respond to any further questions on the matter.
“I’m not going to answer you out of respect for the victims and the investigation. I already responded, but insisting on [asking about] such a regrettable and sensitive issue doesn’t seem right to me,” Sheinbaum said.
Sheinbaum: 2026 FIFA World Cup not considered when calculating economic growth forecast
A reporter asked the president whether projected revenue from the 2026 FIFA World Cup was considered in the Finance Ministry’s forecast of economic growth in the range of 1.8% to 2.8% in 2026.
Sheinbaum said that the projected economic stimulus of the World Cup “wasn’t incorporated” into the Finance Ministry’s growth forecast, which was included in its 2026 budget proposal.
“We didn’t want to be, let’s say, excessively optimistic,” she said.
She said that a “very significant” increase in tourism is expected in 2026 due to the World Cup, but reiterated that the projected economic spillover of the event “wasn’t considered as such in the growth [forecast] for next year.”
“We hope that it gives us more [growth], right?” Sheinbaum said.
Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey will host matches in the 2026 World Cup, which will be the third men’s World Cup played on Mexican pitches.
INAH researchers have covered 800 kilometers of the future routes of four new rail projects to identify sites and artifacts that will need attention. (INAH)
As construction began this week on the Saltillo-Monterrey-Nuevo Laredo train line connecting the northern border zone states of Coahuila, Nuevo León and Tamaulipas, archaeologists from the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) are continuing exhaustive field research along that route and three others.
Around 20 archaeologists have walked along 800 kilometers of the routes, much of it consisting of existing tracks. They have been traversing areas earmarked for rail development to identify, assess and ultimately salvage areas and artifacts of historical significance, including archaeological sites from the Classic and post-Classic eras.
The researchers stress that their mission is not just to identify sites along the train routes, but to collect and scientifically examine artifacts, which will sometimes require excavation. (INAH)
The other three routes are one running from the Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) outside of Mexico City to Pachuca, Mexico City-Querétaro and Querétaro-Irapuato. So far, some 200 significant sites have been found along those routes.
“We have completed 100% of the surface surveys on the right-of-way of the four routes,” INAH Director of Archaeological Rescue Salvador Pulido Ménde said in a press statement.
Seven archaeological sites were registered along the 57-km AIFA-Pachuca route, where pottery and carved stone fragments were found, according to Pulido Méndez.
On the 226-km Mexico City-Querétaro route, 141 sites were identified, 31 of which are of archaeological interest, and one of which is in Tula, once the capital of the Mesoamerican Toltec Empire. A freight train track crosses the site through a tunnel, dividing Tula Grande and Tula Chico, which will be expanded to accommodate the passenger train.
“We have 11 km to investigate and plan to work with several excavations,” said Méndez, referring to the Tula site. “It is a new opportunity to learn more about the capital of the Toltec culture.”
A total of 28 sites were registered along the 108-km Querétaro-Irapuato route in Mexico’s Bajío region, seven of which require excavation works.
“There are two cases in which we are studying how to resolve the issue of train passage because rock art was found: Cueva Ahumada and Los Fierros, in Nuevo León,” said Méndez.
Archaeological surveying works will continue in areas along the planned train route, such as overpasses and crossings. But surveying and identification are not the sum total of the task.
“It’s not just about walking around and seeing if there are archaeological remains that need to be moved aside so the train can pass, but about using them to conduct scientific research and proposals,” Méndez said.“In the coming weeks, we hope to begin excavations of the sites with archaeological potential.”
Meanwhile, work on Saltillo-Monterrey-Nuevo Laredo has begun
Construction on the first 100-km section of the Saltillo-Monterrey-Nuevo Laredo train began on Tuesday. The project is expected to generate over 4,700 direct jobs and 14,600 indirect jobs.
Once complete, the route will be capable of transporting up to 7 million passengers a year, with trains running at a speed of between 160 and 200 km an hour.
The connection is part of a larger 1,200 km train network that will connect Mexico City with the border city of Nuevo Laredo.
Viva's new route will connect one World Cup city (Monterrey, Nuevo León, shown here) to another, New York.
(@samuel_garcias/X)
Viva has announced a new direct route between Monterrey (MTY) and New York (JFK), marking a “turning point” in air connectivity between northern Mexico and the United States.
After the four weekly flights begin operations on Dec. 13, the route will be paused starting in mid-January 2026 and then resume permanently starting in the summer.
Viva serves 45 national and international destinations, but New York has not regularly been one of them. Starting this December, it will be. (File Photo)
“The route marks a turning point in connectivity in Monterrey,” General Director and CEO of Grupo Viva Aerobus Juan Carlos Zuazua said.
He added that Monterrey residents’ quality of life has improved thanks to the airline’s continuous launching of new domestic and international routes that allow travelers “to go on vacation, discover new destinations and see family and friends.” Viva serves 45 national and international destinations, though the new route will be its first connecting Monterrey with New York on a regular basis.
“What better way to continue expanding this connectivity than with the new Monterrey-New York route?” Zuazua said.
While prices are expected to be competitive, the Dec-Jan rollout of the new route is aimed at business travelers and tourists looking to take advantage of the Christmas season in New York. The start of the permanent phase of the route is timed to facilitate access to the 2026 FIFA World Cup. Matches are scheduled in Monterrey between June 14 and June 29, and in the New York/New Jersey area from June 13 to July 19.
“Each new route is a direct gateway to the world,” state Tourism Minister Maricarmen Martínez Villareal said. “For Nuevo León [Monterrey’s state], it means more visitors, more business opportunities and more jobs. This alliance prepares us with a vision for the 2026 World Cup.”
The first phase of ticket sales to World Cup matches began on Wednesday morning and will last through September 19. Visa cardholders over the age of 18 are eligible to register now in order to purchase tickets later. The cost for group phase matches is US $60 (115.30 pesos, subject to change per the exchange rate), according to FIFA.
Joaquín García, seen pictured on the banner, was first arrested in 2019 in Los Angeles, prompting many of the church's followers to pray for their spiritual leader. (Fernando Carranza García/Cuartoscuro)
Naasón Joaquín García, the leader of a Guadalajara-based church who in 2022 was sentenced to more than 16 years in prison for sexually abusing three girls in California, has been indicted on federal racketeering and sex trafficking charges in the United States.
Joaquín García, the 56-year-old leader or “apostle” of the La Luz del Mundo (The Light of the World) church, and five other people, including Joaquín’s mother, are charged with running “a wide-ranging racketeering and child exploitation enterprise,” according to a statement issued Wednesday by the U.S. Attorney’s Office in the Southern District of New York.
Church “Apostle” Naasón Joaquín García is currently serving a 16-year prison sentence in California for sexual abuse of minors. (File photo)
U.S. officials on Wednesday announced the unsealing of a New York grand jury indictment charging Joaquín García and his co-defendants “with sexual, financial, and related criminal conduct victimizing members of the La Luz del Mundo (LLDM) Church over many years,” according to the statement.
He was first arrested in 2019 in Los Angeles, prompting many of the church’s followers to pray for their spiritual leader.
The U.S. Attorney’s Office said that Joaquín García’s mother, Eva García de Joaquín, was arrested in Los Angeles on Wednesday, and another suspect, Joram Núñez Joaquín — a nephew of the church leader — was detained outside Chicago.
The other three suspects — Rosa Sosa, Azalia Rangel García and Silem García Peña — “are at large and believed to be in Mexico,” the Attorney’s Office said.
Joaquín García faces six federal charges in total. The maximum penalty for four of those charges is life imprisonment.
‘They exploited the faith of their followers to prey upon them’
Citing the unsealed indictment, the U.S. Attorney’s Office said that the defendants “engaged in a racketeering enterprise (the ‘Joaquín LLDM Enterprise’) that exploited the LLDM Church and persisted for decades to facilitate the systemic sexual abuse of children and women — including the creation of photos and videos of sadistic child sexual abuse.”
“For decades, the Joaquín LLDM Enterprise operated for the sexual gratification of Naasón and his father, the former leader of the Joaquín LLDM Enterprise, Samuel Joaquín Flores, who died in 2014,” the Attorney’s Office said.
The Luz del Mundo (Light of the World) church is one of Mexico’s best-known and most controversial non-Catholic Christian groups. (Cuartoscuro)
It also said that during a period of decades in the United States, Mexico and “elsewhere around the world,” the six suspects “abused the power, doctrine, and structure of the LLDM Church to threaten, coerce, and sexually abuse girls, boys, and women in the LLDM Church; to engage in financial crimes; and to obstruct criminal investigations into their misdeeds.”
“These defendants and their co-conspirators were part of the Joaquín LLDM Enterprise that carried out this scheme over the course of decades, abusing generations of church members and then destroying evidence to evade detection by law enforcement,” the Attorney’s Office said.
U.S. Attorney Jay Clayton said that “Joaquín García and the other members of the Joaquín LLDM Enterprise used their position in and the resources of the La Luz Del Mundo Church to sexually abuse girls, boys, and women.”
“They exploited the faith of their followers to prey upon them. When they were confronted, they leveraged their religious influence and financial power to intimidate and coerce victims into remaining silent about the abuse they had suffered,” he said.
Federal charges came after ‘yearslong investigation’
Ricky J. Patel, the top special agent in the New York Field Office of Homeland Security Investigations, said that the indictment against Joaquín García and his alleged co-conspirators came after “a yearslong investigation that spanned the country and involved the support of dozens of courageous victims.”
“… The defendants are accused of targeting individuals who gave LLDM Church their unquestioning trust and devotion and who in turn endured unimaginable crimes,” he said.
“Make no mistake, the defendants’ alleged cycle of victimization ends today. I thank the brave survivors who provided law enforcement with vital information related to these allegations, and I encourage others with helpful information to do the same,” Patel said.
What is the La Luz del Mundo Church?
The LLDM Church was founded by Eusebio Joaquín González, Naasón Joaquín García’s grandfather, in Guadalajara, Jalisco, in 1926, during Mexico’s Cristero War.
Joaquín García became leader in 2014 after his father’s death. Before his arrest in 2019, he lived between Guadalajara and California, where LLDM has many churches.
According to the church’s English-language website, LLDM is “a Christian-based faith” whose “practices are based on the biblical teachings of Christian fraternity and solidarity, teaching respect for human dignity, equal treatment, and non-discrimination.”
The church says that “the Apostle of Jesus Christ Naasón Joaquín García is the spiritual guide and teacher of our faith.”
LLDM – which doesn’t celebrate Christmas or Easter, segregates sexes during services, prohibits alcohol and doesn’t allow women to hold leadership positions – has been the subject of controversy for decades and described by critics as a cult — albeit a very large one — that preys on the poor.
The U.S. Attorney’s Office said that each of the three leaders the LLDM Church has had to date “manipulated girls and young women by conveying that they could earn a special ‘blessing’ by serving him, which often ultimately included sexual activity, including oral sex, manual stimulation, and ultimately, penetrative sex with the victims.”
“This abuse occurred over the course of generations,” it said.
The Attorney’s Office said that Eva García de Joaquín, “Samuel’s wife and Naasón’s mother, groomed for her husband’s sexual abuse and directly herself sexually abused minors and young women, similarly for years.”
Footwear figures among the import categories that could see tariff rates rise to 50% for countries without a free trade agreement with Mexico. (Cuartoscuro)
Mexico is planning to impose new tariffs on imports from countries with which it doesn’t have a free trade agreement, a move that appears primarily aimed at China.
President Claudia Sheinbaum is seeking congressional approval to implement tariffs of up to 50% on goods from such countries, sending an initiative to the Chamber of Deputies on Tuesday that aims to modify the Law on General Import and Export Taxes.
Sheinbaum had previously indicated that her government was looking at imposing new tariffs on imports from countries with which Mexico doesn’t have trade agreements. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)
The initiative — related to Mexico’s 2026 budget proposal — proposes tariffs of between 10% and 50% on a wide range of goods, including ones made in the automotive, textile, plastic, steel, clothing, toy, footwear, furniture, paper and glass sectors.
The legislative proposal is consistent with the Mexican government’s aim to reduce reliance on imports and protect Mexican industry. Those goals are set out in the ambitious Plan México industrial policy, which was unveiled in January.
Approval of the reform initiative appears inevitable, considering that the ruling Morena party and its allies dominate both houses of Congress.
Sheinbaum had indicated that her government was looking at imposing new tariffs on imports from countries with which Mexico doesn’t have trade agreements. The Bloomberg news agency reported late last month that the Mexican government intended to increase tariffs on Chinese imports.
Mexico’s growing trade relationship with China, and Chinese investment in Mexico, are seen as a potential stumbling block for the Mexican government in the 2026 review of the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), the North American free trade pact that superseded NAFTA in 2020.
Imposing higher tariffs on imports from China will likely go some way to appeasing the governments of the U.S. and Canada, both of which have critically questioned Mexico’s economic ties with the world’s second-largest economy.
United States President Donald Trump has even accused Mexico of being a transshipment hub for Chinese goods — i.e. a tariff-free or low-tariff backdoor to the United States market. The Mexican government denies the allegation.
Reform bill seeks to support Mexican industry and jobs, and ‘balance’ foreign trade
Sheinbaum’s reform bill states that its aim is to “take advantage of our internal market so that production takes place in Mexico and employs Mexican workers.”
At the same time, the legislative proposal seeks to contribute to the “balancing” of foreign trade for the “well-being” of “all Mexicans.”
“For years,” the reform bill states, “the national economy became integrated into global value chains, under frameworks that favored the importation of inputs, which led to the loss of essential productive sectors and a growing vulnerability to external shocks.”
“Trade liberalization, while expanding markets, did not always translate into greater technological capacity or an increase in national content in our exports. With this proposal, inspired by Plan Mexico, this trend will be corrected, and national industry will be strengthened given the international trade context and global reconfiguration,” it says.
The reform bill sets a goal of having “at least 50% of strategic supplies” being made in Mexico.
It also states that “tariffs are no longer seen solely as a means of raising revenue, but become a strategic tool for economic and trade policy.”
In addition to seeking increased foreign investment, one of Sheinbaum’s goals with Plan México is to increase national content in manufactured exports. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartocuro)
Another aim of the tariff plan is to attract new investment to Mexico, just like Trump is seeking to lure foreign companies to the U.S. with his protectionist agenda.
“Due to existing international policies, … it is necessary to implement concrete actions that enable a balanced market interaction in order to avoid economic distortions that could affect the relocation [to Mexico] of the productive sectors considered strategic for the country,” the bill says.
The legislative proposal states that imports from countries with which Mexico has a free trade agreement will not be subject to the new proposed tariffs. Existing agreements — Mexico has pacts with around 50 countries — will continue to govern that trade.
What products will be subject to the new tariffs?
The new tariffs are slated to apply to goods imported under 1,371 tariff codes, a figure equivalent to 16.8% of all of Mexico’s tariff codes.
The reform bill proposes the implementation of duties at rates of 10%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35% and 50%. The tariffs would initially be imposed until Dec. 31, 2026, but their application could be extended.
Among the goods that will be subject to higher tariffs if Sheinbaum’s initiative is approved are:
Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard said Tuesday that the imposition of tariffs on Chinese products is “a measure to try to reduce” Mexico’s trade deficit with China, which exceeded US $57 billion in the first six months of 2025.
“Light vehicles, plastics, electronic parts,” he said, listing some of the imports set to face higher tariffs.
“… Every time [the deficit with China] goes up, we’ll have fewer companies in Mexico,” Ebrard told reporters at a business event in Monterrey.
“We have to try to protect our companies with a reasonable strategy, because you can’t put tariffs on everything either,” he said.
New tariffs to generate revenue of 70 billion pesos annually, official says
Deputy Finance Minister Carlos Lerma told a press conference on Tuesday that the new tariffs would generate an additional 70 billion pesos (US $3.76 billion) in revenue for the government.
He stressed that the tariffs will be imposed “within the framework of the international [trade] treaties” Mexico has with dozens of nations around the world.
Deputy Finance Minister Carlos Lerma told a press conference on Tuesday that the new tariffs will not replace those established by Mexico’s existing trade agreements with foreign nations. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
Finance Minister Edgar Amador said that the tariffs would be imposed in accordance with World Trade Organization guidelines. He also said that the government would be sensitive to any impacts the tariffs might have on production and prices in Mexico.
Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at Banco Base, said on X on Wednesday that the imposition of tariffs could have a “positive” impact on government income and “could help to maintain a favorable relationship with the administration of Donald Trump,” which has been pressuring Mexico to increase tariffs on imports from China.
However, Siller asserted that the duties will “generate inflationary pressures in Mexico” because “19.96% of Mexico’s imports come from China.”
“With respect to imports directed to the final consumer, passenger vehicles are of concern because 18.1% of sales in Mexico are of Chinese origin,” she wrote.
In a separate post on Wednesday, Siller said that 29% of Mexico’s car imports will be “affected by the 50% tariff announced yesterday.”
Amador didn’t single out China as a target of Mexico’s proposed tariffs, but acknowledged that their implementation would happen “within the discussion and future commercial conversations with our North American partners” ahead of the review of the USMCA next year.
However, he stressed that the “main motivation” for the tariffs is “the Plan México strategy, the goal of strengthening production” in Mexico.
A spokesman for the Chinese government, Guo Jiakun, spoke out against any move to put additional tariffs on China’s exports to Mexico in August, the Associated Press reported.
“Mexico is China’s second-largest trading partner in Latin America, and China is Mexico’s third-largest export destination,” he said.
“China firmly opposes restrictions imposed on China under various pretexts and under coercion from others, which harm China’s legitimate rights and interests,” said the spokesman of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of China.
Malnourished gray whales have also washed ashore as far north as Tijuana, such as in this photo taken in August 2025. (Omar Martínez/Cuartoscuro)
Ninety-two gray whales washed up dead in Baja California Sur (BCS) during the most recent breeding season, marking one of the worst die-offs in decades, according to Mexican and U.S. researchers.
A whale that washed up dead in the Bay of La Paz, Baja California Sur, in February. (museodelaballena/Instagram)
Scientists say malnutrition is to blame — not poaching or ship strikes — after most carcasses were found decomposed and showed no signs of direct human harm.
Self-beachings, implying that a whale intentionally or accidentally beaches itself, were not the cause, either, as scientific consensus does not support intentionality or suicidal behavior in whales.
“What we’ve seen leads us to believe they arrived malnourished, which made them much more vulnerable and prone to stranding,” said Lorena Viloria Gomorra, a researcher with Mexico’s Marine Mammal Research and Monitoring Program (PRIMMA).
Most strandings are involuntary responses to distress, disorientation, illness or external factors.
The deaths were recorded in places such as Laguna San Ignacio and Bahía Magdalena, key whale sanctuaries and breeding areas on BCS’ west coast that are also remote whale-watching areas about 400 kilometers north of Cabo San Lucas.
The Whale Museum in La Paz, the capital of BCS, confirmed that whales likely died offshore after failing to find enough food in their Arctic feeding grounds.
Two years ago, Mexican agencies such the Ministry of Environment and Natural Resources (Semarnat) and National Commission of Natural Protected Areas (Conanp) reported a significant uptick in Gray whale numbers in the Vizcaíno Reserve, which includes San Ignacio and Bahía Magdalena.
In the long run, however, the numbers are reportedly dropping.
The eastern North Pacific gray whale population has plummeted from 27,000 in 2016 to about 13,000 this year, the lowest number since the 1970s. (Adolfo Vladimir/Cuartoscuro)
The eastern North Pacific gray whale population has plummeted from 27,000 in 2016 to about 13,000 this year, the lowest number since the 1970s, according to a NOAA Fisheries report from June as well as an open letter from biologists in Mexico, the United States and Canada.
Moreover, births have almost completely collapsed. Only 85 calves were counted this year — a 90% drop from normal breeding seasons, according to NOAA Fisheries data and supporting articles. NOAA Fisheries is a federal U.S. agency within the Department of Commerce’s National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA).
“Gray whales are showing signs of extreme stress, with significant unusual mortalities, a reduction in reproductive rates, an increase in the proportion of malnourished whales, and changes in their foraging behavior,” biologists wrote in their August open letter.
They warned that the population is in a “precipitous decline.”
Scientists link the crisis to climate change. Melting Arctic ice and warming seas have reduced the whales’ main food source — benthic amphipods.
“Recent studies indicate that whales may be experiencing unprecedented conditions in the Arctic due to climate change,” the open letter states.
The biologists called on international agencies to re-evaluate the gray whale’s protection status and urged the International Whaling Commission to act. They warned that the species should be considered “highly vulnerable.”
International researchers are now expanding monitoring and photo-ID programs, hoping to understand and reverse the deadly trend.
The woman, the myth, the legend. Who really was Frida Kahlo y Calderón, the person behind the icon?
As an art historian, the case of Frida Kahlo troubles me. With her image cartooned and printed onto mugs, tote bags, makeup sets, candles, notebooks, and toys I am troubled by what she has become. And yet, I am proud that she has become a global reference point and, in many ways, the emblem of Mexican identity.
To me, she is not a T-shirt, a figurine stamped “Made in China,” or a kitschy mash-up of her portrait and Day of the Dead imagery. She is a complex, sophisticated artist who has been exoticized, over interpreted, poorly explained and too often stripped of the world in which she lived.
Frida Kahlo’s image remains a familiar sight in neighborhoods across Mexico. Is the modern image of Mexico’s most famous woman anything more than a corporatized commodity? (Graciela López/Cuartoscuro)
Before she was “Frida”
Magdalena Carmen Frida Kahlo y Calderón was born in 1907 in the Casa Azul, her family’s cobalt-blue house in Coyoacán, on the southern edge of Mexico City. She later claimed 1910 as her birth year, aligning herself with the outbreak of the Mexican Revolution, as if rebellion itself could be inscribed into her very biography.
Her father, Guillermo Kahlo, was a German immigrant who became a naturalized Mexican citizen and carved out a career as the first official photographer of the nation’s cultural patrimony under Porfirio Díaz. His work documenting churches, monuments, and civic architecture provided the Kahlo family with the financial stability to build Casa Azul and give his daughters the finest education.
Guillermo was cultured, liberal and enamored of the arts. His studio, with its oils and brushes, became Frida’s refuge. There she first learned to paint. She also absorbed the visual discipline of photography: framing, posing, retouching. This early training explains the uncanny precision of her canvases. She grasped an essential lesson: that painting could hold what photography could not.
Her mother, Matilde Calderón, offered a stark contrast — devoutly religious, deeply conservative, and insistent that women existed to serve men. In the Kahlo household, the rosary was a daily fixture and the family kept a designated pew at church. Frida resisted.
Made in Mexico: Friday Kahlo, beyond the legend
Illness struck early. At six, she contracted what her parents believed to be polio, which left her right leg thinner than the other. Some biographers suggest it was more likely spina bifida, a congenital condition also seen in her sisters. The schoolyard was merciless: classmates mocked her as “Frida Kahlo, pata de palo (peg leg).” She confessed to wearing layers of socks to hide her insecurity.
At fifteen, she declared to her parents that she intended to study medicine — perhaps a way of grasping her own fragility. She entered the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria (ENP), the only one in Mexico at the time. Out of 2,500 students in her generation, just 35 were women. Frida was one of them.
At the school she met her first great love, Alejandro Gómez Arias, with whom she carried on a four-year romance. But she also glimpsed Diego Rivera, already a cultural rock star, painting a mural in the auditorium. Watching him from the hallways, she reportedly told classmates, “I’m going to marry that man.” They laughed.
Her years at ENPwere turbulent. An affair with a female teacher and political activism led to her expulsion. She apprenticed instead with an engraver, who recognized her talent. She was beginning, quietly, to make her way as a painter.
Then came the crash
On September 17, 1925, a bus carrying Frida collided with a streetcar. The bus split apart. Frida was impaled by a metal handrail and left with a fractured pelvis, broken spine and shattered ribs. These injuries would leave her in chronic pain for the rest of her life. She was just seventeen.
“The Accident,” Kahlo’s own rendition of the collision that changed her life. (Frida Kahlo)
She spent a month in the hospital and several more bedridden at home. Her mother rigged a mirror above her bed and had a special easel built. Her father gave her his prized collection of brushes and paints. In unbearable pain she began her first canvases. Her early works bore the mark of her training in photography and her exposure to Renaissance art.
In 1926 she painted her first known self-portrait as a gift for her boyfriend Alejandro. “The portrait will be in your house in a few days,” she wrote him. “I beg you to place it somewhere low, where you can contemplate it as if you were looking at me.”
Soon afterthe relationship with Alejandro ended, as did her medical ambitions. Instead, she found in art, in the Communist Party, and in Diego — who embodied both art and communism — her leitmotif.
Mexico’s power couple
By the late 1920s, Diego Rivera was already a towering figure — not only physically, but also artistically. By the time Frida sought him out, he was already considered the national painter.
Armed with a handful of canvases, Frida approached Rivera at one of his mural sites, and demanded he come down and judge them. “I have not come to flirt with you,” she told him bluntly, “I have come to show you my painting.” Rivera was impressed.
Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. (The Art Gallery of Ontario)
What followed was one of the most tempestuous relationships in modern art. Diego was 21 years older, twice her size, already married twice, and a notorious womanizer. He embodied everything her conservative mother despised and everything she herself longed to challenge.
In 1929, they married. Her parents, scandalized by the match, called it the “marriage of an elephant and a dove.” But Frida was no dove. She demanded equality, and she wielded wit and defiance like weapons.
The marriage was punctuated by infidelities, reconciliations, and creative symbiosis. Frida once confessed “I suffered two accidents in my life. The first occurred when a streetcar ran me over. The other accident is Diego.”
Despite — or perhaps because of — their turbulence, the couple thrived artistically.Their home became a meeting point for artists, exiles, and revolutionaries. Leon Trotsky himself would live for a time in their orbit. And while Diego painted sweeping public epics, Frida turned inward, onto the canvas of her own body and soul.
Painting pain
What makes Kahlo’s art remarkable is not just its technical finesse but its brutal honesty. She transformed her own body into a landscape of suffering, desire, and endurance. Her canvases are intimate confessions, coded diaries in oil.
“Without Hope,” painted as Kahlo struggled with the aftermath of her injuries. (Frida Kahlo)
Unlike Rivera, who covered walls with sprawling murals of peasants, workers, and revolution, Frida painted herself over and over again. Out of 143 known works, 55 are self-portraits. Yet they were not exercises in vanity. They were acts of survival.
“My painting carries within it the message of pain,” she once wrote. In The Broken Column (1944), her torso is split open, her spine replaced with an Ionic column that is cracking. Her body is strapped in a steel corset, her skin punctured with nails. In Without Hope (1945), she lies in bed, gagging as a funnel force-feeds her meat, fish, and entrails — a direct reference to her medically prescribed diets.
But her art was never only about pain. It was also about defiance. In works like Self-Portrait on the Borderline Between Mexico and the United States (1932), she sets herself between two worlds: the industrial smokestacks of Detroit and the fertile soil of pre-Columbian Mexico. She holds a Mexican flag, small but unyielding, staking her claim to cultural belonging.
Her canvases borrow from retablos, the small devotional paintings common in Mexican Catholic households. They borrow too from Surrealism, though she rejected the label. “They thought I was a Surrealist,” she stated, “but I wasn’t. I never painted dreams. I painted my own reality.”
To paint was to give form to what was otherwise unbearable: miscarriages, surgeries, Diego’s infidelities, her bisexual affairs, and her fragile health. She made art out of the raw material of her existence.
Politics
Kahlo and Leon Trotsky (second from left), the Communist revolutionary and founder of the U.S.S.R., with whom she had a brief affair. (Frida Kahlo)
Frida and Diego were not only artists; they were also political actors in a Mexico still shaping its revolutionary identity. Both joined the Communist Party, convinced that art and politics were inseparable. For Rivera, murals were propaganda on a grand scale. For Kahlo, painting was private but no less political: the assertion of her Mexican identity, her body, and her voice.
In 1930, the couple left Mexico for the United States, where Diego had received commissions in San Francisco, Detroit, and New York. Frida called the U.S. “gringolandia” and often mocked its obsession with money and machinery. Yet her time there expanded her artistic vocabulary. In Detroit she painted Henry Ford Hospital (1932).
Her work here was one of her most evocative, depicting the ex votos that were part of Kahlo’s Catholic upbringing. These images, where the faithful would draw icons of their pain and suffering while giving thanks to their chosen saints, were a way of exorcising her own traumatic demons. She painted a snail, a dead fetus (a son she had miscarried earlier that year), her wounded body, her battered pelvis, a withered flower and medical equipment. The city of Detroit sits in the background with all its industry. In the center, the bed like an island where Frida lies alone, crying with all her fears, holding a red cord that connects everything.
Returning to the Casa Azul in 1934, Frida’s circle of friends widened to include poets, painters, and political exiles.Among them was Trotsky with whom Frida embarked on a brief affair — more a gesture of rebellion than of passion. She later offered him Self-Portrait Dedicated to Leon Trotsky, where she stands stiffly, holding a bouquet and a note of dedication.
Politics swirled around her, but it never drowned her. For Kahlo, ideology was in the assertion of identity, the rejection of bourgeois convention, and the embrace of Mexico’s indigenous heritage.
Frida’s recognition
“Henry Ford Hospital,” possibly Kahlo’s most powerful work. (Frida Kahlo)
Her marriage was turbulent, but separation never lasted. Frida began affairs with men and women alike in response to Diego’s romances. While she kept her affairs with men discreet, those with women were even boasted about by Diego himself.
Strangely, this way of living made Frida prolific during the late 1930s. Frida painted herself with her monkey, her childhood nurse, and her own thoughts reflected in bathwater. Her canvases grew more ironic, playful, even humorous.
In 1938, André Breton arrived in Mexico. He was captivated not by Rivera but by Kahlo. “I didn’t know I was a Surrealist until Breton told me,” she quipped. At his urging, she exhibited in Paris the following year. After many disagreements with Breton over poor organization, Frida wrote to one of her friends: “You have not the least idea what kind of cockroach Breton is, along with almost all the surrealist group. In a few words, they are all sons of… their mother […] And all this resulted in fights, insults, discussions, gossip, much anger and problems of the worst kind. Finally, Marcel Duchamp (the only one of the artists and painters here who has his feet on the ground and his brains in place) managed to organize the exhibition with Breton. It opened on the 10th of this month at the Pierre Colle gallery, which, I’m told, is one of the best in the place. There were many people on opening night, many congratulations to the ‘little girl,’ including a strong embrace from Joan Miró and great praise from Kandinsky for my painting; congratulations from Picasso, Tanguy, Paalen and other ‘great shits’ of surrealism.”
Disappointed with the French art scene, she returned to la Casa Azul, only to find Rivera demanding a divorce. Devastated, Frida painted The Two Fridas — the European one Diego never loved and the Mexican one who was for Diego. She had explored dualities before in other paintingslike life and death, but none as painful and direct as she did here.
Betrayal
(Frida Kahlo)
In 1940, she and Rivera remarried under unusual conditions: they would not share a home, not sleep together, and she would be financially independent. Whether those terms were real or rhetorical hardly mattered. What mattered was that Frida’s career was blossoming.
The 1940s brought exhibitions abroad and teaching at La Esmeralda, where she mentored the group later known as Los Fridos. Her diary from this period — illustrated with drawings, confessions, poems — became her most intimate work.
But her health deteriorated. Surgeries offered brief reprieves; alcohol and Demerol dulled the pain. Her canvases grew rawer, strokes more violent, precision replaced by anguish. In 1953, her friend the photographer Lola Álvarez Bravo organized the first solo exhibition of her work in Mexico. Doctors advised against her attending. Frida arrived by ambulance, carried to her bed in the gallery, dressed in traditional costume, made-up and perfumed. Two hundred guests — artists, writers, politicians, friends — celebrated her life. The party lasted until dawn.
Months later, after the amputation of her leg, she wrote in her diary:“Feet, what do I need you for, when I have wings to fly?”A year later she wrote “I hope for a joyful exit — and I hope never to return.”
She died in July 1954, at 47. Rivera broke down as her body was cremated, flames illuminating her like one of her own canvases.
Legacy
By the time of her death, Frida Kahlo had created 271 works. Through them she gave form to what women of her generation were not supposed to voice: the realities of illness, miscarriage, desire, infidelity, sexuality and political opinion.
Who has not feared death, loved unevenly, struggled with parental expectations or tried to show the world a braver face than they felt inside? Kahlo’s genius was to make private wounds into collective mirrors.
Her symbolic vocabulary — monkeys, fruit, flowers, Catholic saints, pre-Columbian idols — is at once autobiographical and mythic. Her style may repel classical tastes, but her force is undeniable.
So, how does a woman who painted her political views, pains, likings, fears, insecurities, and adorations become a marketing product? Find out next week, as we take a look at the Fridamania phenomenon.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
The Baja California Peninsula is home to many relics of it's missionary past. Author David Kier spoke to Mexico News Daily about their past, present and the best way to enjoy them. (Eatseerv)
No era in the history of Baja California has been as oft-written about as the Spanish mission era, and with good reason, as the successive waves of Jesuit, Franciscan, and Dominican missionaries during the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries brought sweeping political and cultural changes to the peninsula and left a lasting legacy.
Of course, the most tangible legacy is found in the missions that were built. Several of these remarkable archaeological monuments still exist and are “well worth the dusty drive” it takes to visit them, as David Kier, an expert on the topic, aptly puts it. David’s book, Baja California Land of Missions, was published in 2016 and remains a definitive print resource.
Author David Kier is an authority on Baja missions. (David Kier)
The ultimate resource, however, is David himself, since he continues to visit these sites regularly, travels touched upon in this interview and covered in greater detail in articles on his website: Viva Baja.
What was the timeline for Jesuit, Franciscan, and Dominican mission building on the Baja California peninsula?
The Jesuits began the California mission program in 1697, at Loreto. The Franciscans replaced the Jesuits in 1768. This period lasted five years, and the Franciscans founded only one mission on the peninsula, San Fernando. Their primary focus was on the 1769 expedition to Alta California led by Gaspar de Portolá and Junípero Serra, which was foundational in settling what is now the U.S. state of California.
The missions on the Baja California peninsula and the land between the San Fernando and San Diego missions were handed over to the Dominican order in 1773. The Franciscans wanted only to work in Alta California. So the Dominicans had that northern land in Baja to establish their own missions on.
How many missions were built during these respective eras, and how many still exist? I know, for example, that all the ones south of La Paz are gone.
The Jesuits founded 17 missions, eight of which were relocated one or more times to better locations, often adopting a different name after the move. This has proved confusing for modern writers regarding the actual number of true missions. A mission is a project, like a business or corporation, and not a specific location or a church building alone.
The historic mission in Loreto was founded by Jesuit missionary Juan María de Salvatierra in 1697. (Villa del Palmar)
The Franciscans founded just one mission and handed it over to the Dominicans four years later. The Franciscans built the adobe churches at San Borja and Santa María. The adobe ruins of San Fernando are from the Dominican period.
The Dominicans were on the peninsula the longest, established nine missions (five of which were moved at least once), and continued to operate the Jesuit and Franciscan missions that were open when they arrived in 1773 until each was abandoned. The Dominicans built the stone churches we see today at the Jesuit-founded missions of San Ignacio, Santa Gertrudis, and San Borja. The last two Dominican missions were founded after Mexican independence, so they are not considered true Spanish missions. The padre who built them, Felix Caballero, had no authorization.
Original 1700s stonewall mission churches (some with repairs and new roofs) are found at Loreto, San Javier, Mulegé, Comondú, San Ignacio, San Luis Gonzaga, Santa Gertrudis, and San Borja. That’s eight in total.
What were the most interesting historical events associated with the Baja missions? Are there any myths or legends associated with them?
Oh my, there are so many! The Pericú Revolt began on October 1, 1734, in Santiago, which led to the destruction of the four southernmost missions: at Santiago, San José del Cabo, Todos Santos, and La Paz.
The “Chilean Invasion” of 1822, led by English Admiral Thomas Cochrane, who ordered attacks on three missions — at San José del Cabo, Todos Santos, and Loreto. These attacks occurred because Spain had lost the Mexican War for Independence, but isolated Baja California still had government offices flying Spanish flags. Cochrane had served as Chile’s admiral since 1818, when he helped Chile defeat Spain to gain its independence.
Mission San Ignacio, one of the most beautiful extant missions, as it looked in 2019. (Viva Baja)
The lost mission legends are popular, and searching for them can be a fun activity! There were never any real lost missions. However, a map created by the Jesuits in 1757 showed three missions beyond San Ignacio as “under construction,” feeding the rumors.
San Juan Bautista, west of San Ignacio, near Punta Abreojos in the Sierra Santa Clara, is one of them. Known as the Lost Santa Clara Mission, nothing has been found there, at least that we know of. Dolores del Norte is another. Even the old Auto Club maps showed it, putting it north of San Ignacio. In reality, the name of this mission was changed to Santa Gertrudis upon its founding to honor the wife of the financial benefactor (Note: Gertrudis was the name of the wife of José de la Puente, aka the Marqués de Villapuente, who funded many of Baja’s missions).
Yet, Dolores del Norte still comes up along with Santa Gertrudis on some maps. The impressive visita ruins (a visita was a small sub-mission outpost) in San Pablo Canyon are also sometimes referred to as a mission by INAH (the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia).
Santa María Magdalena, the third mission on the 1757 map shown between San Ignacio and Bahía de los Angeles, has more going for it. Bells with that name are at Mission Santa Gertrudis, as if the mission was aborted and the bells were given to the nearest mission. Historical author (and Desert Magazine editor) Choral Pepper believes the mystery walls at Bahía Las Animas might just be the aborted mission project.
Finally, the Lost Mission of Santa Isabel. This is a more recent legend from the late 1800s to early 1900s as an explanation for what came of Jesuit treasures when they learned of their impending banishment. A waterhole on the 1757 map named Santa Isabel, north of the final Jesuit mission of Santa María and Gonzaga Bay, may be the source of the name. So many wild stories about Santa Isabel searches have been published, including my own.
What, in your opinion, are the best missions to visit, and why?
Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó in San Javier is called the “jewel of the missions.” (Viva Baja)
I enjoy visiting all the mission locations that I can. The highly impressive San Javier (Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó), known as the “jewel of the missions,” and the magnificent San Ignacio are top contenders. Both are on paved roads for easy access. San Borja is just over twenty miles from a highway and stands out as a must-see. It is the furthest-north stone mission on the peninsula. Coming upon it in the middle of the harsh desert is quite the experience.
My favorite mission location is Santa María. Its ruins are the most intact of the adobe missions. Located in a most difficult location, only the best-equipped four-wheel-drive vehicles can hope to reach it. It takes three hours or more just to travel the fifteen miles of dirt road from Cataviña or Santa Ynez. Don’t go without another vehicle to support you. My fifth visit to it was three years ago.
What should our readers know about going to see these missions before planning a trip?
They should study the many missions either in my book or on my website pages to pick out the ones that look the most interesting or have an intriguing story. Each mission has an interesting history. Two months ago, a friend and I went to eight mission sites that are along or very close to Federal Highway 1, between Tijuana and Cataviña, over a weekend.
We also visited other interesting sites proving Baja is a land of so many wonders that a lifetime of travels there cannot spoil opportunities to see more. Your readers will need to decide how they travel and what they want to see. For some, that may mean flying in, renting a car, and staying at hotels. Others will do as I always have done, secure a capable vehicle, and camp under a sky so full of stars that you will think you are on the dark side of the moon!
Do you have any tips on border crossing or driving in Baja? Is there an established route for an itinerary to visit multiple missions?
Yes, I try to keep a page updated with details on driving across the border. Keep in mind, things can and do change, so be aware of that and try to enjoy the experience of driving into another country.
The itinerary can be as large as desired. The only missions that have no direct road or easy automobile access are San Pedro Mártir, Los Dolores Apaté, and Santa María. The Guadalupe mission site, forty miles west of Mulegé, may be fenced off to visitors, according to a recent report. There are only some walls, foundations, and stairs to see.
Most of the missions are on or near paved roads. Three of the intact, stone missions — Santa Gertrudis, San Luis Gonzaga, and San Borja — are some distance away from the highway but well worth the dusty drive if you are in a truck or SUV.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.