How many stars would you give that baño?

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September 2, 2023

Illustration showing a restroom in Mexico — Sarah DeVries has figured out a rating system for Mexico's range of public restroom experiences. (Illustration by Angy Márquez)

I took my daughter to a gourmet popcorn store the other night. It’s nice and well-decorated but very small, with just two tiny tables inside. It’s the kind of place where most people order their fancy popcorn to go (our favorite is “Cookie Monster” – it’s blue and has actual cookies and M&M-type candies made to look like googly eyes!), but my daughter couldn’t wait that long. She had to have some of that popcorn right then and there.

My problem was that I needed to pee. Bad. Actually, I often have to pee pretty badly, which means if I’ve gone to an establishment with a bathroom, I’ve probably used it.

This was hardly a sit-down restaurant, so I don’t think the bathroom was really considered for client-use when they moved in. The tiny space was stocked with cleaning supplies, and it was so small that my knees knocked against the sliding door in front of me when I sat down (try getting that image out of your head!).

But I was grateful that they’d let me use it, and for the fact that there was both toilet paper and soap. There were paper towels for hand-drying too, a bonus! I smiled to myself and remembered an old friend’s silly idea, born of a veritable smorgasbord of bathroom experiences in Mexico: a bathroom star-rating system.

Behold, here it is, my unscientific rating system for Mexican baños has arrived!

5-star bathrooms

A five-star bathroom has to not only contain everything you might want and need, but it must also be a well-decorated space, without any kind of awkward, misplaced items (like cleaning supplies); it cannot double as an additional space for something else, and it must be spotless. Bonus points for an essential oil diffuser or similar, and extra bonus points for music that gives you auditory privacy. Climate control gets that bathroom into Heaven.

Other features of a five-star bathroom:

The basic necessities: toilet paper, soap, paper towels or electric dryer.
Visually-pleasing, large-enough mirrors (above the sink and full-length).
Functioning and easy-to-use locks on the door or stalls.
Toilet seats.
A place to hang one’s bag or purse.

4-star bathrooms

A four-star bathroom is one that’s almost as nice and pleasant as a five-star, but that might be missing a couple of features: perhaps it’s very nice overall, but lacks toilet seats (I cannot figure out why so many bathrooms lack toilet seats around here). Maybe it’s otherwise lovely, but has a moldy-looking corner of the ceiling or terrible lighting that makes you look just ghastly in the mirror, or terrible water pressure that means you have to hold the flusher down until all the water’s drained from the bowl: one or two things will need to be noticeably off.

3-star bathrooms

Three-star bathrooms are those in which the experience of using them starts to become quality entertainment, if you’re looking at it the right way.

It will still have the essentials, like toilet paper, soap, and (maybe) paper towels for hand-drying, but plenty of other things could be either comically missing (like a mirror or a toilet paper holder) or comically present (like the establishment’s entire collection of cleaning supplies bunched up in a corner, or an old calendar from 1998 on the wall). A bathroom gets three stars in my book if it doesn’t have a toilet seat, OR if it’s one of those spaces that’s so tiny you can barely turn around. This would include those kinds of triangle-shaped bathrooms that are underneath stairs, or spaces in which inserting a toilet and sink seemed to have been an afterthought, something done hastily without having first taken measurements.

2-star bathrooms

Two-star bathrooms are those that officially have what you need – usually because you’ve had to pay five pesos to get in – but that are strictly no-frills. Most pay-to-use bathrooms in public parks and similar places count as two-stars. Don’t even think about toilet seats this time.

The toilet-paper dispenser will typically be public, meaning you’ll need to either be handed your allotted squares from the person charging to get in out front or “serve yourself” from a large dispenser outside the stalls before going into a stall, which may or may not close and lock all the way. Soap will be available at the sinks, though you might need to scoop it in powder form from a plastic container, or squeeze a liquid that smells like grape candy out of a recycled dish detergent dispenser. Paper towels are not usually on the menu (though there’s usually an empty dispenser).

1-star bathrooms

One-star bathrooms are not for the faint of heart. There might be a toilet, but there’s no counting on toilet paper, soap, or even a door, for that matter. To get one star, the toilet can only be flushable by pouring a bucket of water into the bowl.

One-star toilets are often found (around here, anyway) on public beaches. There might be a door with a latch, or there might simply be a curtain. If there’s a sink for washing one’s hands, it’s outside of the actual bathroom, and the soap and mirror situation could be dodgy.

I wish you the wisdom to appreciate five-star bathrooms, the grace to accept one-star bathrooms, and an absurd enough disposition to, like me, spend your bathroom trips thinking about how many stars you might give the one you’re in.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Flamingos find refuge in Mexico

By

Leigh Thelmadatter

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September 2, 2023

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Flamingoes_at_Ría_Lagartos_850 — Mexico's Yucatán peninsula is an important stopover on the flamingos' migratory routes, and breeding ground, like this site at Ría Lagartos, Yucatán. (Wikimedia Commons)

As much as Florida is associated with these funny pink birds, perhaps it is better to think of them as Mexican.

The world has six species of flamingos, but the American flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) are famous for their color, which is a result of their diet, not genetics. The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimates that there are over 200,000 of the birds over their home range that extends from southern Florida, over the Caribbean and into South America. Exact numbers are hard to come by because the birds are migratory, flying anywhere from hundreds to thousands of kilometers to take advantage of certain feeding grounds and nesting sites in multiple countries.

Ría Lagartos is the most important breeding ground for American flamingos and the second most important in the world. (All photos courtesy of the Pedro y Elena Hernández Foundation)

Estimates as to how many touch down in Mexico range anywhere from 20,000 to about 40,000, linking Mexico to the flamingos’ ecological niche. For this reason, Mexico works both within its borders and beyond to better understand and conserve the species.

Flamingos congregate on the northern coast of the Yucatán peninsula, in particular four important federally-protected areas: Los Petenes, on the northern edge of Campeche; Ría Celestún Biosphere on the western edge of Yucatán (state), Ría Lagartos on the eastern side of the same and Yum Balam Flora and Fauna Protection area in northern Quintana Roo.

Petén, Celestún and Yum Balam are all stopovers and feeding areas for migrating flamingos, but Ría Largartos is particularly important because it is Mexico’s principal nesting site, and the second most important after Cuba.

All of these sites allow visitors, but how many flamingos you might see will vary depending on the time of year and the quality of feeding in any given year. The two most popular are Celestún, best from October to April, and Ría Lagartos, during the breeding season from April to August/September.

Conanp works closely with non-profits like the Pedro y Elena Hernández Foundation to maintain efforts to learn about flamingos and how best to protect them.

Although not considered endangered internationally, the Mexican Environment and Natural Resources Ministry (Semarnat) lists them as protected, as human activities such as boating and water contamination negatively impact their habitats. The birds are sensitive to both because they live and feed in shallow brackish waters on the coast, straining larvae, small crustaceans and more from the sediment they kick up.

Conservation efforts have been going on in Mexico for decades, and may be why there are any wild flamingos at all in the United States.

Although tagging and monitoring has been going for more than two decades, efforts really stepped up when the National Commission for Protected Natural Areas (Conanp) teamed up with the Pedro and Elena Hernández Foundation in 2015, bringing in support from other non-profits and Mexican corporations to systematically study the birds and improve their Yucatán habitats. These organizations include the National Autonomous University of México (UNAM), and tourism heavyweights such as the Xcaret Group and the Holbox Hotel Association.

The Hernández Foundation is best known as the principal caretakers of the Edward James Gardens in Xilitla, but it was founded in 2002 by an entrepreneurial family based in northern Veracruz. Most of their work focuses on the oil-rich Gulf coast, in projects related to the environment and sustainable development for local populations. Flamingos are one of their principal concerns.

Grade school educational efforts near flamingo feeding and breeding site are an important way to conserve the species as most of their danger comes from human activities.

The partnership’s efforts have discovered that some birds migrate as far as 5000 km and they documented one 22 year-old individual in 2022, thanks to his identification bands.

Habitat work includes both the monitoring and restoration of feeding and breeding grounds in the four reserves and other areas, especially the water quality in Ría Lagartos because of its importance as a breeding site.

But conservation also means working with local communities. Educational efforts are aimed at both school children and adults to increase awareness of the birds’ importance. It also includes supporting efforts to develop eco-friendly economic initiatives to lessen the need to damage wetlands, and even sterilization of local cats and dogs to reduce predatory pressure on the birds.

Their efforts have paid off. Not only are many of the feeding and breeding grounds in better condition, there is more public support for protecting the birds.

The Foundation’s and government’s efforts are headquartered in Casa Artemia in El Cuyo, which México Desconocido magazine declares a “bird paradise.” It is primarily a scientific research facility, but it also offers ecologically-friendly lodging to visitors through several online booking sites. It also works with local tour operators to offer kayaking, boating and hiking opportunities.

So how does all of this fit in with flamingos in Florida? You might be shocked (I was) to find out that flamingos were wiped out by hunting in the state by the end of the 19th century, and until very recently, all Florida flamingos were captive populations mostly for tourists. They had been absent from the ecosystem for so long that when the first wild ones started showing up in the very beginning of this century, with bands indicating that they were born in Mexico, local authorities thought they were invasive.

A flamingo tends to its chick at the Ría Lagarto reserve in Mexico.

But the knowledge gathered in Mexico and other locations proved that these flamingos were simply following their natural migratory instincts, and did indeed belong in Floridian shallows. Authorities have since updated their policies and conservation efforts have begun to increase wild populations in the Everglades and elsewhere. It won’t be easy, however. Florida has development pressures that Mexico’s Yucatán has been able to avoid so far.

Mexico has played an extremely important role in the understanding and appreciation of the flamingo in at least three countries. And with friendly relations with both the United States and Cuba, it is in a unique position to make sure that there are massive flocks of flamingos for the marvel of future generations.

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

The much-maligned papaya

By

Janet Blaser

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September 2, 2023

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Cut papaya — If you're one of the lucky ones who isn't sensitive to certain enzymes in papaya that make it taste and smell unappealing, you will find there are many ways to enjoy this Mexican fruit. (Debora Cardenas/Unsplash)

Just the other day another expat friend told me how much she hates papaya; “the taste, the smell, everything,” she said. Like many others, she’ll never be able to enjoy the taste or even aroma of papaya, and there’s an actual biological reason for this visceral response.

Turns out that some people are more sensitive to certain enzymes that occur naturally in papayas. Glucosidases (the same chemical that’s in mustard) can smell terribly unpleasant to some folks—like dirty socks, they say. Papayas also contain papain, an enzyme that breaks down proteins, and that can smell bad too (it’s also why papaya is a good meat tenderizer). And finally, papaya contains high levels of B-vitamins, sometimes associated with strong odors as well.

Papaya is native to Mexico and can be found at local markets all over the country.

I count myself as fortunate that this is not the case for me.

A good way to think of this often unfairly maligned fruit is that it has a different personality in its native Mexico, where it can grow and thrive naturally in a sun-drenched climate that brings out its best qualities. Commercially grown papayas are a different thing altogether and have often been sprayed with chemicals and hormones to delay ripening as they’re shipped from faraway places. (Again, like tomatoes.) These affect flavor as well. Just like you wouldn’t judge tomatoes by one plastic-y, flavorless Roma tomato purchased in a grocery store, far from the field where it grew and ripened naturally in the sunshine, you can’t fairly evaluate papayas by what you find in the U.S. or big-box stores.

Start at your local mercado and look for different shaped papayas. Some will be more round or eggplant shaped, others long and thin; some will have flesh that’s soft coral in color while others are almost red. You’ll discover that some have seeds while others do not. The textures also vary, from a soft, melt-in-your-mouth sweetness to a more firm, juicy mouthfeel. Some smell like vanilla; others have a more floral or melon scent – there’s some aroma from the whole fruit, but once it’s cut you’ll get its true character. Ask where the papayas are from and do your own side-by-side taste tests with fruits grown in different parts of Mexico. Vendors are usually happy to explain what they know and may even have more than one variety. See if you can find locally grown papayas, maybe from a neighborhood tienda or even a neighbor with a tree who might share if you ask nicely.

Papaya trees grow easily, bearing many fruits that project almost straight out from the trunk after first appearing from small, pretty flowers under the crown of leafy branches. They do need a male and female tree to pollinate, and only the females bear fruit, although they will both flower. In most parts of Mexico papayas grow prolifically, all year round, and are fun to have at home either in the ground or in a big pot on a balcony or patio.

The papaya tree produces an abundance of fruit.

The other tip you need to know to get the most out of your papaya experience is how that they need to be very, very ripe before you eat them. Those unblemished, golden fruits wrapped in paper in the grocery stores? Blah. Also, resist the urge to buy an already cut papaya.

You want a papaya so ripe it almost looks rotten, with dark spots on the darkened orange skin. It shouldn’t be mushy but should look really ripe—overripe, in fact. Ask the vendor to show you one that’s ready for eating, then either buy that one or let a less-ripe one sit on the counter at home until it looks like what they showed you. Be patient and you will be rewarded.

Papaya Lassi

2 cups chopped very ripe papaya
½ cup ice
1 cup plain yogurt
1 Tbsp. sugar, or to taste
Pinch of ground cardamom or cinnamon
Pinch of coarse salt

Combine all ingredients in a blender; process until smooth. Serve immediately.

Roasted Papaya with Brown Sugar

Serve as a side dish like baked sweet potatoes or squash, or as a dessert with a scoop of whipped cream or vanilla yogurt.

2-3 Tbsp. brown sugar or grated piloncillo
¼ tsp. ground ginger or 2 tsp. grated fresh ginger
2 medium papayas, halved lengthwise and seeded
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges

Preheat oven to 450F (230C). Mix sugar and ginger in small bowl. Arrange papaya halves, cut sides up, in baking dish. Sprinkle with sugar mixture. Bake, brushing edges 2-3 times with sugar mixture as it melts (it will collect in the well of the fruit) until mixture is bubbling and papaya edges begin to darken, about 40 minutes. Serve with lime wedges.

Papaya & Blueberry Salad with Ginger-Lime Dressing

Papaya is a great addition to fruit salads, pairing well with other tropical fruits or with berries.

3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. honey or maple syrup
2 Tbsp. minced crystallized ginger or grated fresh ginger
2 very ripe papayas, peeled, seeded, and diced or scooped with a small melon baller
1 cup blueberries
1 Tbsp. julienned fresh mint leaves, plus sprigs for garnish

Mix lime juice, honey/maple syrup and ginger in a large bowl. Add fruit and mint and toss. Serve garnished with mint sprigs.

Avocado-Papaya Salsa

2 medium avocados, pitted and diced
2 cups diced ripe papaya
1 apple, jícama or Asian pear, peeled if desired, cored and diced
¼ cup fresh lime juice
1 serrano chile, seeded and minced
¼ cup chopped cilantro
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint
½ small red onion, minced
Salt to taste

Combine avocado and papaya in medium bowl. Add remaining ingredients and toss. Season to taste with salt. Best eaten shortly after assembling.

Green Papaya Salad (Thai Som Tum)

Thai green papaya salad — This savory salad is made with unripe papaya.

2 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. dry-roasted salted peanuts, more for garnish
2 serrano chilies, sliced
½ tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1-2 Tbsp. fish sauce, to taste
2 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
½ lb. long beans or string beans, cut into 1½-inch lengths (optional)
1 medium green (unripe) papaya
Optional: 1 Tbsp. dried shrimp, lettuce for serving

In blender or with a mortar and pestle, blend or pound garlic, salt, peanuts, chilies, sugar and shrimp (if using) into a paste. Transfer to large bowl. Mix in lime juice and fish sauce. Lightly crush tomatoes and beans (if using), then add to bowl and mix.

Peel and coarsely grate papaya, discarding seeds and inner membrane, to yield 4-6 cups of papaya. Add papaya to bowl; lightly toss. Taste for seasoning. If desired, line serving bowl or individual plates with lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with peanuts and serve.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expats, featured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Art exhibition kicks off Guadalajara’s mariachi and charrería season

By

John Pint

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September 1, 2023

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Watercolor of a charro — A new exhibition celebrates Jalisco's vibrant cowboy and mariachi culture. Watercolor by Jorge Monroy. (All photos by John Pint)

Every year, as summer draws to a close, Guadalajara celebrates its twin traditions of charrería and mariachis in grand style, with concerts, musicals, rodeos and fiestas all around the state: “more than 50 presentations filled with music and folklore.”

While todo el mundo knows what a mariachi is, not everyone has heard of charrería, a word that might be translated into English as ”everything related to cowboys,” but in modern times really refers to certain skills which cowboys or charros display in competition with one another.

Monument in Cocula, Jalisco, proclaiming the city as The Worldwide Cradle of the Mariachi.

This year Jalisco kicked off its celebration of the thirtieth anniversary of mariachi music and charrería with an art exhibit inaugurated on Aug. 24 entitled Entre Lazos y Cuerdas (Among Lassos and Chords) featuring watercolor paintings, all related (of course) to charros and mariachis.

The expo — on display at the Guadalajara Chamber of Commerce until Sept. 30 — offers an excellent way for you to acquaint yourself with every aspect of these traditions.The art show features 59 paintings, all of them by members of the Jalisco Society of Watercolorists, and many of them for sale.

I asked one of those watercolorists, artist Jorge Monroy, what the public might be able to learn about charrería while visiting the art exhibit.

Tomás Herón, head of the Jalisco Society of Watercolorists, with one of his hyper-realistic portraits.

“When it comes to charros,” replied the artist, “my favorite themes are related to what they call las nueve suertes. These are nine skills that are tested in competition at lienzos charro, specially built arenas which regularly stage what those north of the border would call a rodeo.

Monroy then gave me a few examples of the suertes which take place at a lienzo charro – a competitive rodeo.

Pial

The Pial is a challenge requiring the charro to lasso a galloping mare while mounted on his horse. As soon as the mare runs through the loop of the lasso, the horseman must catch it by the hind legs (only). He then “dallies” or wraps the rope around his saddle horn in such a way that the friction will bring the racing mare to a complete stop in the shortest distance possible. In some cases the intense friction generated may literally produce a cloud of smoke.

Members of the public admire “Mariachi Número 7” by watercolorist Luis Romero.

Coleadero

Mounted on his horse, the charro must get close to a young bull and grab its tail, causing the bull to fall to the ground. The more times the bull rolls, the more successful the suerte. The entire trial takes place within a distance of 60 meters.

La Cala de Caballo

To execute this suerte, the charro must race his horse at top speed and then stop as quickly as possible. When the horse “puts on the brakes,” it slides forward and its hooves leave skid marks, known as rayas (lines), whose lengths are measured.

To the uninitiated, this may sound easy, but many consider this the most difficult suerte of all, and the ultimate demonstration of the oneness between rider and horse.

Charro painting — Cala de Caballo: a charrería event in which a racing horse must be quickly stopped. Watercolor by Jorge Monroy.

These and many other tests of horsemanship and roping feature in the watercolor expo.

The other theme of the art show is the mariachi, which has undergone an interesting evolution over the years.

The town of Cocula in Jalisco claims to be the birthplace of the mariachi. At first the music was referred to as son jalisciense, (the Jalisco sound) and the musicians played stringed instruments only, perhaps guitars and a harp. On top of that they weren’t dressed as charros, but wore the white shirt and pants of peasants.

Serious art critics discuss the fine points of some of 59 watercolor paintings on display.

And how about the word “mariachi?” What does it mean?

For years we were told that it’s a corruption of the French word mariage, because the musicians typically played at weddings in the days when France was trying to conquer Mexico.

Recent studies demonstrate that the term “mariachi” was well established long before the French invasion. A letter from a priest complaining to his archbishop about “the noise of the mariachis,” was written in 1848, thirteen years before the French invaded. The origin of the word continues to be debated.

Jalisco society of watercolorists — The artists, all members of the Jalisco Society of Watercolorists, gather for a group photo.

If you have a chance to visit the exposition, you will have a perfect opportunity to examine the various techniques of Mexican watercolorists.

“Watercolor (acuarela in Spanish),” Jorge Monroy told me, “is considered by many to be the most difficult form of painting. Put a drop of water on cotton fiber paper and you can’t see if it is absorbed completely, so, if you put color on that surface, you don’t know what is going to happen. If it’s very wet, the paint will expand, if it’s a bit dry you’ll end up with a glob of color, a glob you don’t want to see. Watercolor always gives unexpected results.”

Oil or acrylic is different, he told me. “If you don’t like what you see, you can remove it with the spatula and put something else on top, but in acuarela, it’s impossible to make corrections. You have to get it right the first time around. You have to be sure of yourself and you have to succeed at the very first attempt. So the oil painter can relax in his studio, drinking a cup of wine and listening to music. He doesn’t have to fight the battle of the watercolorist, because he knows he can always correct a possible mistake. He has no worries.”

If you visit the show at the Chamber of Commerce (entry is free), you can learn about charros and mariachis as well as the intricacies of acuarela technique…and help a good cause, as a portion of art sales will be donated to families of policemen killed in the line of duty.

The Cámara de Comercio de Guadalajara is located at Av. Vallarta 4095 and is open Monday to Saturday, 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM until Sept. 30.

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

AMLO announces start of petroleum production at Olmeca refinery

By

MND Staff

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September 1, 2023

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Olmeca refinery in Dos Bocas, Tabasco — The new Pemex refinery in Dos Bocas, Tabasco is one of the president's flagship projects. It was officially inaugurated in July 2022, but first received shipments of crude in late June this year. (Gob MX)

The new Pemex refinery on the Gulf coast of Tabasco will commence production on Friday, President López Obrador announced Friday morning.

“The new Dos Bocas refinery will begin producing petroleum today,” he said during his fifth annual report, a State of the Union-style address delivered this year in Campeche city.

AMLO at fifth annual report — The president gave his fifth annual report on Friday in Campeche. (Gob MX)

López Obrador didn’t specify what kind of fuel will initially be produced at the state oil company’s refinery in the Paraíso municipality of Tabasco.

However, he said that 290,000 barrels of gasoline will be produced there daily by the end of the year.

The facility, officially called the Olmeca Refinery, was inaugurated in July 2022, even though it wasn’t finished and hadn’t begun processing crude oil. The first shipment of crude was transferred to the refinery earlier this year. Refining capacity is slated to reach 340,000 barrels per day (bpd) at some point.

According to a government document obtained by the El Universal newspaper last year, the final cost of building the new refinery in López Obrador’s home state will be just over US $20 billion, more than double the original estimate of $8.9 billion.

In 2019, the government scrapped a bidding process to build it on the grounds that the bids submitted by private companies were too high and they would take too long to complete it. Pemex and the Energy Ministry were subsequently given responsibility for the project.

Some analysts have been critical of the government’s decision to build the refinery, arguing that the project diverts resources from Pemex’s more profitable exploration business.

But López Obrador, a staunch energy nationalist, asserts that the refinery – one of several major infrastructure projects undertaken by the current government – will help Mexico reach self sufficiency for fuel, an objective he wants to achieve before he leaves office in late 2024.

In Campeche on Friday, he said that Pemex’s six other refineries in Mexico have been upgraded “with an investment of 70 billion pesos,” about US $4.1 billion at the current exchange rate.

Deer Park Refinery owned by Pemex in Texas — The president’s plan to restore Mexico’s oil self-sufficiency not only includes the new Olmeca refinery but also upgrading existing refineries and buying the former Shell Deer Park Refinery in Texas. (Pemex Deer Park/Facebook)

“That’s why production has increased from 38% [of capacity] to 60%,” López Obrador said without mentioning that refining levels last month dropped well below the target needed for self sufficiency.

The Deer Park refinery near Houston, Texas, that is now fully owned by Pemex after it bought Shell Oil Company’s 50% share in early 2022 is processing 340,000 bpd, he said, noting that the facility has now been fully paid for.

“In 2018 we imported 900,000 barrels of gasoline per day, … which accounted for 80% of national consumption when we got to government. At the end of this year we’ll only be importing 250,000 barrels [per day], which represents 20% of national consumption,” López Obrador said.

“The plan is that next year we won’t buy gasoline or diesel abroad, and all [of Mexico’s] crude oil will be processed here in order to give added value to our raw material and maintain low fuel prices to benefit consumers,” he said.

Mexico News Daily

AMLO to take first trip on Maya Train, from Campeche to Cancún

By

Cat Rainsford

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September 1, 2023

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CAMPECHE, CAMPECHE. 01SEPTIEMBRE 2023.- El presidente Andrés Manuel López Obrador visitó la estación del Tren Maya en Campeche, donde se realizó las primeras pruebas de la locomotora del tramo dos hasta la estación de MÉrida. FOTO: MICHEL BALAM/CUARTOSCURO.COM — Sections 1, 2, 3 and 4 (of 7) are 90% complete and will be inaugurated this December. (Michel Balam/Cuartoscuro)

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador traveled to Campeche this Friday, where he will take his first ride aboard the work-in-progress Maya Train for a supervision trip.

The first four carriages of the Maya Train were delivered in Cancún on July 8, where they have since completed a series of static and dynamic tests. On Tuesday, the carriages left for Campeche, where AMLO delivered his fifth annual government report on Friday morning.

Following his fifth annual presidential address, AMLO will board the Maya Train to supervise tests along the section running from Campeche to Mérida. (Michel Balam/Cuartoscuro)

Directly after his presentation, AMLO was set to board the train for a supervision tour of sections 2 and 3 of the project, which conclude in Mérida. On Saturday, the president will travel on the train to the inauguration of the newly restored Chichén Viejo archaeological sector in Chichén Itzá. He will be accompanied by a small group of guests, including governors and directors of the construction companies involved in the restoration project.

“We are going to talk about culture, archaeology, all the rescue work that is being done in the region,” AMLO said.

On Sunday, AMLO will take the train back to Cancún, where he will inaugurate the modernized Luis Donaldo Colosio Boulevard and the Airport Road, both complementary projects to the Maya Train that will facilitate travel to and from the main station.

The Maya Train is due to begin public operations on December 1. Although construction on the project is still underway, officials are keen to assure that it is progressing on schedule.

Tren Maya — Workers on sections 5, 6 or 7 of the Maya Train, which are expected to be inaugurated in 2024. (Gob MX)

The project has been highly controversial from the beginning, and has faced numerous legal injunctions from environmental and social activists, as well as frequent technical setbacks.

Despite doubts surrounding the construction of the train line, AMLO announced last week that Sections 1, 2, 3 and 4 were 90% complete and on track to open in December. Javier May Rodríguez, general director of the National Fund for Tourism Development (Fonatur), confirmed that Section 2 is 95.7% complete, with only 10 km of track still to lay. The section from Escárcega to Chiná is 98% complete. Hundreds of complementary works, including drainage works, underpasses, bridges and viaducts are already finished.

The project is projected to run 132% over budget by the end of this year without accounting for sections 5 and 7, at a total cost of 362 billion pesos (US $21.2 billion).

With reports from La Jornada Maya, El Financiero and Forbes

Tejuino: an increasingly popular ancient Mexican beverage

By

Camila Sánchez Bolaño

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September 1, 2023

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shutterstock_2264531547_850 — Tejuino is a traditional Wixárika drink, made from fermented corn, and an important part of rituals and celebrations. (Shutterstock)

When it comes to traditional Mexican beverages, tejuino stands out as one of the most unique and refreshing. Originating in the western regions of Mexico – particularly in the states of Jalisco and Michoacán, tejuino has been a beloved drink for centuries

Tejuino’s distinct flavor and cultural significance make it an iconic part of Mexican culinary heritage.

Wixarika people in Mexico — The Wixárika are Mexico’s oldest Indigenous culture that still maintains traditions dating to before the conquest. (Photo: Government of Mexico)

The history of tejuino can be traced back centuries, and its creation is believed to have been inspired by the Indigenous Wixárika or Huichol people’s profound connection with nature and spiritual beliefs. The Wixárika reside in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range, encompassing the states of Jalisco, Nayarit, Zacatecas, and Durango.

The main ingredient of tejuino is a dough made from ground corn kernels, which is then cooked, mashed and mixed with piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar) and water.

This mixture is left to ferment for several days, allowing the natural sugars to develop and infuse the concoction with its distinctive taste. Once the fermentation process is complete, it is enriched with a splash of lime juice and served over ice. The result is a light, effervescent, and refreshing beverage that is perfect for quenching your thirst on hot Mexican days.

Tejuino is typically served in a clay or glass container called a jícara. In less traditional environments it is poured over crushed ice, and some variations include adding a scoop of nieve de limón (lemon sorbet) on top. Traditionally, a wooden spoon or straw known as a “tutu” is used to mix the drink and scoop up any remaining corn solids, enhancing the overall texture and flavor.

Despite it’s traditional roots, tejuino is under threat from the modern world. This version is served with grapefruit soda and Tajín – a far cry from the traditional recipe. (My Slice of Mexico)

Within Wixárika culture, Tejuino plays a significant role in ceremonies and celebrations. The beverage is seen as a sacred link between the living and the departed, a way to honor their ancestors and invoke their presence. During religious rites, it is offered to the gods as a token of gratitude and a symbol of unity among the community. Sharing a glass of Tejuino is akin to sharing a piece of shared heritage, reinforcing the bond among family members and fellow Wixárika brethren.

As well as its traditional roots, tejuino is also recognized for its potential health benefits. The fermentation process involved in its preparation introduces probiotics, aiding digestion and promoting a healthy gut. Its natural ingredients, including corn and piloncillo, also provide essential nutrients and antioxidants.

Like most fermented beverages, tejuino does contain traces of alcohol. The alcohol content in this traditional drink is nominal, at less than 2%.

Despite its deep cultural significance, tejuino faces some challenges in the modern world. As globalization influences traditional practices, there is a risk that this age-old art of brewing might fade away. Additionally, the Wixárika have been grappling with cultural appropriation, as tejuino’s popularity among tourists and outsiders threatens to dilute its authentic origins and cultural roots.

Given the rising popularity of the drink, it can now be found across the country. In larger cities, such as Guadalajara and Mexico City, street vendors, markets, and traditional Mexican restaurants often serve tejuino. Some specialized merchants offer a variety of flavors and toppings to enhance the drink further.

Tejuino stands as more than just a beverage; it is a vessel that carries the history, beliefs, and unity of the Wixárika culture. It represents the richness of Mexican gastronomy and cultural heritage. Every sip of this humble elixir, holds the flavors of Mexico’s ancestral traditions and the resilience of Indigenous communities striving to keep their heritage alive. Its distinctive flavor, preparation methods, and cultural significance make it an important beverage in Mexico’s diverse repertoire.

Camila Sánchez Bolaño is a journalist, feminist, bookseller, lecturer, and cultural promoter and is Editor in Chief of Newsweek en Español magazine.

Chiapas town sets new Guinness World Record with giant cheese

By

MND Staff

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September 1, 2023

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Big cheese — It took 80 workers 4 hours to create the huge ball of quesillo. (Chiapas Recomienda/X)

Eighty workers from 10 cheese producers came together in the southern state of Chiapas on Thursday afternoon, to break the Guinness World Record for the largest ball of quesillo — commonly known as Oaxaca cheese, or string cheese.

The finished product weighed 558 kilograms (1,230 lbs.), made with 6,000 liters (1,585 gallons) of milk and took four hours to complete.

Guinness stipulated that the cheese must be shared between workers after the record attempt. (Dámian Sánchez/Cuartoscuro)

The event was supervised by a Guinness World Records adjudicator, who stipulated that the crew would have to maintain hygienic conditions throughout, produce a final product that was at least somewhat ball-shaped and finish in no more than eight hours.

The cheese ball nearly doubled the previous world record of 350 kilograms (772 lbs.), set in the neighboring state of Oaxaca.

The new record was broken at Campo Milenio in the municipality of Pijijiapan, on the Pacific Coast about halfway between Chiapas’ borders with Oaxaca and Guatemala.

After the record was certified, attendees were allowed to take home portions of the cheese in containers and plastic bags.

Chiapas cheese maker — The last record was set in Oaxaca, but the Chiapas cheese ball was nearly double its size. (DAMIÁN SÁNCHEZ/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Carlos Alberto Albores Lima, mayor of Pijijiapan, said the goal was 600 kilograms, but when the cheesemakers got on roll, “we got excited and we almost reached 700. But then a moment came when the cheese flexed downward … We lost 100 kilos from the top weight, but in the end, we achieved the record.”

Earlier in the week, test runs that produced cheese balls of 100, 200 and 400 kilograms were conducted.

Pijijiapan is well known for its quesillo. Cheese producers there export around 20 to 30 tons per day to Southeast and Central Mexico, and the mayor said that much of the cheese stamped as “Oaxaca cheese” or “quesillo” throughout the country is actually produced in his municipality of 51,200 people. The town is located in a dairy farming area with approximately 800 cheese factories, some of which have up to 200 employees, he said. During the Covid-19 pandemic, many were on the brink of closure.

“Here is where [the distributors] buy it [and] put the stamps on it, and it goes to the center of the country,” he said.

“The truth is, here we have the best cheese factories,” said Pijijiapan resident Victoria Gómez González, who lives next to a cheese factory. “I cheered them on.”

“They deserve it,” said Anthony Alvarez. “They make the best cheese in the world. Congratulations.”

With reports from Milenio, Diario del Sur and Cuarto Poder

Number of unidentified remains in Mexico increased 338% in 2022

By

Cat Rainsford

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September 1, 2023

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Forensic scientist — More than 49,000 human remains went unidentified in 2022. Mexico lacks funding and infrastructure to deal with what has been characterized as a "forensic crisis". (Genaro Natera/Cuartoscuro)

Mexican coroners were unable to identify more than 49,000 human remains in 2022, a 338% increase from 2021, reflecting the country’s crisis in forensic services.

Mexico’s Forensic Medical Services (Semefo) received 130,470 human remains last year, up 41% from 2021, according to a report presented by the National Institute for Statistics and Geography (INEGI) on Wednesday. The number includes 88,166 corpses, 1,216 bones and 39,610 fragments.

Over 88,000 corpses remain unidentified in Mexico, particularly in states with high numbers of missing persons. (César Gómez/Cuartoscuro)

Of the total, 62% (80,885) could be identified, while 37.6% (49,005) were not identified and 0.4% (580) are still being processed. In 2021, only 13% of human remains were left unidentified.

The increase in unidentified remains is another sign of the forensic crisis that is gripping the country, as forensic services struggle to keep up with Mexico’s huge number of disappearances.

Alicia Franco, of Data Cívica, told the El Economista newspaper that the crisis is due to a lack of resources, personnel and equipment. Institutions involved in processing human remains were given a budget of more than 4.3 billion pesos (US $254 million) in 2022.

Experts have also warned that more effective coordination between institutions is required to address Mexico’s forensic crisis. Mexico’s 2017 Law on the Disappearance of Persons ordered the creation of a National Forensic Data Bank (BNDF). The process has stalled repeatedly, and has currently missed its 2019 deadline by four years.

Despite a court order demanding the National Forensic Data Bank begin operation in 2019, the index is yet to become operational, leaving authorities with little support to identify human remains and families with little closure. (César Gómez/Cuartoscuro)

Although the Attorney General’s Office (FGR) announced in May that the BNDF would begin functioning at the end of the month, it is still not operational. According to César Contreras, of the human rights organization Centro Prodh, the BNDF is unlikely to be ready until 2025 or 2026 at the earliest.

Meanwhile, unidentified human remains are building up in Mexico’s forensic facilities. According to INEGI, 53,347 corpses and other remains were stored in 9,298 different facilities last year, of which 87.6% were unidentified. The border state of Coahuila alone accounted for 72% of the bodies and remains stored.

Coahuila was also the state that received by far the largest number of remains in 2022, with 29.6% of the total. Second-placed México state received just 8% and Baja California 6.3%.

There is also a huge disparity in the number of forensic centers in different Mexican states. Jalisco leads with 44 centers, followed by Michoacán with 31 and Guanajuato with 29. Meanwhile, Aguascalientes, Colima and Puebla have only one each.

Baja California search — Baja California registered the third-highest number of remains received in 2022, with 6.3% of the national total. (Adolfo Vladimir/Cuartoscuro)

Just under a quarter – 22.7% – of remains seen in 2022 received no forensic treatment at all. Of those that did, the leading causes of death were homicide, femicide, accidents and suicides. 57.4% of remains received were men, 11.7% women, and 30.9% of undetermined sex.

With reports from Reforma and El Economista

Peso ends the month weaker than at start for first time this year

By

MND Staff

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September 1, 2023

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Pesos with US dollars — Remittances both entering and leaving Mexico in August this year significantly increased compared to 2023. (File photo)

Has the peso’s prolonged party come to an end or was last month’s depreciation just a fleeting break from the currency’s remarkable rise against the US dollar in 2023?

The Mexican peso depreciated 1.86% against the US dollar in August to end the month at 17.05 to the greenback, according to the Bank of Mexico. It was the first time this year that the peso was weaker at the end of a month than it was at the start.

Currency exchange rates — The Mexican peso depreciated 1.86% against the US dollar in the month of August. (GRACIELA LÓPEZ /CUARTOSCURO.COM)

The peso started August at 16.74 to the dollar, meaning that its position weakened by 31 centavos during the month.

A depreciation roughly equivalent to the value of two rarely used Mexican coins doesn’t seem like much, but an interruption to the peso’s long winning streak could be significant if it is a sign of things to come.

Among the factors that affected the peso in August, the newspaper El Economista reported, were a downgrade to the United States sovereign credit rating, expectations that the U.S. Federal Reserve could raise interest rates (the Fed’s next monetary policy meeting is scheduled for Sept. 20) and the decision by Mexico’s Exchange Commission (Comisión de Cambios) to cut a six-year-old hedge program aimed at reducing currency volatility.

The peso on Thursday depreciated 29.6 centavos, or 1.77%, against the dollar after the Bank of Mexico (Banxico) announced the Exchange Commission’s decision.

Bank of Mexico facade — The Bank of Mexico has maintained high interest rates this year which has contributed to the peso’s strength against the US dollar. (MOISÉS PABLO/CUARTOSCURO.COM)

Citing a return to “adequate levels of liquidity and depth” in the national foreign exchange market and “lower volatility” in international markets, Banxico said that “credit institutions and other economic agents have the conditions to cover their risks related to the exchange rate directly in the exchange market.”

“Therefore, the Exchange Commission has decided to instruct the Bank of Mexico to gradually reduce the current amount of the foreign exchange hedge program while always aiming to maintain the orderly functioning of the foreign exchange market,” Banxico said.

Starting this month, the central bank said that it will “renew the maturities of foreign exchange hedges on one occasion only and by 50% of the current amount.”

The Bloomberg news agency reported that the reduction of the hedge program signals to traders that “the rally that made the … [peso] the world’s top performer [in 2023] may have gone too far.”

Even with the depreciation on Thursday triggered by the Exchange Commission’s decision, the peso was over 12% stronger against the greenback than it was at the start of the year, when the USD-MXN exchange rate was about 19.5.

Benito Berber, chief economist for Latin America at French bank Natixis, said that the decision to reduce the Banxico hedging program is “a clear sign that the peso might be too strong.”

Felipe Hernández, an economist who covers Mexico for Bloomberg Economics, said that reducing the hedge program makes “a lot of sense” considering the appreciation of the peso this year and record high interest rates in Mexico, which are currently set at 11.25%.

Clyde Wardle, a foreign exchange strategist at HSBC Securities USA Inc, said that Mexico is “basically using the MXN strength as an opportunity to unwind these outstanding forward positions.”

The peso on Thursday had its worst day since March, but will it continue to lose ground against the dollar?

The currency weakened again on Friday morning, trading at about 17.10 to the dollar at 11 a.m. Mexico City time, but a large depreciation is not expected, according to Gabriela Siller, director of economic analysis at Mexican bank Banco Base.

AMLO at morning press conference — The president has heralded the peso’s appreciation against the US dollar this year as a sign of economic strength. (Gob MX)

“The market didn’t expect this decision by the Exchange Commission so it caused an overreaction. However, large depreciations for the peso aren’t expected, and it could eventually resume the downward [strengthening] trend, although it’s now less probable that it will reach a new minimum for this year,” she said.

The peso’s strongest position in 2023 – and in almost eight years – was 16.62 to the dollar in late July.

An increase to the 5-25%-5.5% interest rate range in the United States could weaken the peso given that the significant difference between that rate and that in Mexico is one factor that has helped the peso this year.

However, Atlanta Federal Reserve Bank President Raphael Bostic said Thursday that rates are already high enough to reduce inflation in the U.S to 2% over a “reasonable” period.

Reuters reported that “traders bet on Friday” that “the U.S. Federal Reserve is likely done raising interest rates given that “a government report showed the unemployment rate rose [in the U.S.] last month and wage growth cooled.”

Inflation in Mexico is on the wane (4.67% in the first half of August), but Banxico isn’t expected to cut interest rates before December, meaning that the peso could be propped up by the record high 11.25% rate in the coming months.

Vegetables at a market — Inflation has been declining, but remains above the target rate of 3%. (Cuartoscuro)

Strong incoming flows of foreign capital and remittances are among other factors that have benefited the peso this year.

So, what will the USD-MXN exchange rate be at the end of 2023?

The consensus forecast of analysts recently surveyed by Citibanamex is that the peso will trade at 17.85 to the US dollar at the end of the year, a considerable weakening from its current position but still a major improvement from where it was in January.

Currency forecasts, of course, are not an exact science, and a range of factors and events – including unforeseen ones – could affect the ever-so-slightly diminished “super peso” in the months ahead.

With reports from El Economista, El Financiero and Bloomberg