Monday, April 28, 2025

Heavy rains forecast in 6 states as tropical storms Fabio and Emilia take form in Pacific

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Very heavy rainfall (50-75 mm) is expected in Chihuahua, Chiapas, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Sinaloa and Sonora.
Very heavy rainfall (50-75 mm) is expected in Chihuahua, Chiapas, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Sinaloa and Sonora. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

The first full week of August will bring abundant rain across Mexico as forecasters track a monsoon, cyclones and several tropical waves.

Though persistent storms are expected, extreme conditions are unlikely.

Mexico’s National Meteorological Service (SMN) predicts very heavy rains today in the western half of the country, with heavy rainfall forecast for central Mexico. 

Here is your Monday rain forecast by state:

Rain forecast by state

Very heavy rainfall (50-75 mm) is expected in Chihuahua, Chiapas, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Sinaloa and Sonora. 

Heavy rainfall (25-50 mm) is forecast in Colima, Durango, México state, Jalisco, Michoacán, Nayarit, Tabasco and Veracruz.

Showers (5-25 mm) are likely in Baja California, Baja California Sur, Campeche, Mexico City, Coahuila, Hidalgo, Morelos, Puebla, Quintana Roo, Tlaxcala, Veracruz and Zacatecas.

The Mexican monsoon will cause strong winds (50-70 km/h) across several northern states including Baja California, Sinaloa and Sonora and high waves (1-2 meters) along the coasts of Colima, Jalisco and Michoacán. 

The SMN is also tracking two tropical storms in the Pacific — Fabio and Emilia — that are currently moving southwest and do not pose a risk to Mexico’s west coast.

A second Fujiwhara effect could emerge in the Pacific 

The pair of storms in the Pacific could potentially produce a second consecutive Fujiwhara effect, which occurs when two nearby cyclonic vortices move around each other. This binary interaction can produce a larger cyclone.

Last week, Hurricane Carlotta and Tropical Storm Daniel interacted and produced a Fujiwhara effect about 1,500 km from the Mexican coast. Meteored speculates that the occurrence of two consecutive Fujiwhara effects in the Pacific might be unprecedented.

The SMN is also tracking a low-pressure system in the Caribbean that has a 30% chance of becoming a tropical cyclone by the end of the week. 

Meteored predicts high temperatures in the north, east and southeast this week as an anticyclone pushes into Mexico from the southwestern United States. Sonora, Baja California, Chihuahua, Coahuila and Tamaulipas could see highs approach 45 degrees Celsius, as could the Yucatán Peninsula.

With reports from Meteored

Peso plummets amid global market turmoil

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The peso depreciated against the dollar on Sunday as news broke of a Japanese market crash early Monday.
The peso depreciated against the US dollar on Sunday as news broke of a Japanese market crash. (Google)

The Mexican peso plummeted to above 20 to the US dollar late Sunday as fears of a recession in the United States upended markets around the world.

Bloomberg data shows that the peso slumped to 20.16 to the greenback shortly after 10 p.m. Mexico City time on Sunday.

The peso reacted to a shake-up in the Japanese market on Monday. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)

Compared to its position at the close of North American markets on Friday, the peso depreciated by almost 5% to reach 20.16 to the dollar.

It was the first time since October 2022 that the USD:MXN exchange rate went above 20.

At 12:30 p.m. Mexico City time on Monday, the peso had recovered considerably from its position on Sunday night to trade at 19.42 to the dollar.

In a post to X late on Sunday, Banco Base’s director of economic analysis Gabriela Siller said that the depreciation of the peso wasn’t caused by any internal factor in Mexico.

The weaker peso is “a consequence of the collapse of the Japanese market and fear of the possibility of a recession in the United States and an escalation of the war in the Middle East,” she wrote.

Earlier on Sunday, Siller said that the expectation that the Bank of Japan will again lift its key interest rate — after raising the rate to 0.25% last week — and “aversion to risk about Mexico” were two factors weighing on the peso.

“After everything, it seems that the Japanese carry trade was not so good for Mexico,” she said in another post to X.

Bloomberg reported Monday that “an unwinding of global carry trades is helping to jolt markets around the world.”

“The yen and yuan pushed higher Monday, while the Mexican peso extended its decline as traders continued to roll back the popular trading strategy,” the news agency reported.

According to Investopedia, “a carry trade is a trading strategy that involves borrowing at a low-interest rate and investing in an asset that provides a higher rate of return.”

The Bank of Mexico’s key interest rate is currently set at a near-record high of 11%.

Bloomberg reported Friday that Japanese individual investors had “cut bullish bets on the Mexico peso against the yen to the lowest this year, in a sign of how interest-rate hikes at home may reduce their appetite for higher-yielding assets abroad.”

The peso depreciated to above 19 to the dollar on Friday after data showed that hiring in the United States slowed significantly in July.

Janneth Quiroz, the Monex financial group’s director of economic analysis, said Friday that the July employment numbers and separate data showing that manufacturing activity in the United States dropped to its lowest level since November last month were generating fear that an economic slowdown in the U.S. could become more pronounced.

A slowdown in the U.S. could negatively affect Mexico’s economy and reduce the inflow of dollars to Mexico due to “lower exports, remittances and foreign direct investment,” the analyst wrote on X.

The New York Times reported Monday that “a wave of panic” was rippling through markets, “with stocks falling sharply in the United States and around the world as investors zeroed in on signs of a slowing American economy.”

The headquarters of the Mexican Stock Exchange (BMV) en Mexico City.
The Mexican Stock Exchange (BMV) was down 1.8% on Monday morning. (Shutterstock)

A volatile year for the peso 

Bloomberg data shows that the peso began the year at just above 17 to the dollar. In early April, it appreciated to its strongest position in almost nine years against the greenback, reaching 16.30.

Just before the June 2 elections in Mexico, the peso was again trading at just above 17 to the dollar, but it depreciated sharply after Claudia Sheinbaum and the ruling Morena party scored comprehensive victories in the presidential and congressional contests.

The peso fell to as low as 18.99 to the dollar 10 days after the elections on concerns that a coalition led by Morena will approve a range of constitutional reform proposals — including a controversial judicial reform proposal — once recently-elected lawmakers assume their positions on Sept. 1.

However, the currency subsequently recovered to trade at 17.6-17.7 to the dollar in mid-July.

The peso ended July at around 18.6 to the dollar, before losing further ground in the first days of August.

With reports from El Universal, López-Dóriga DigitalBloomberg and Reuters 

Mexico City activities that are fun for the whole family

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Best family activities in Mexico City.
Climb, swim, run, jump, zip and wonder at some of these amazing family friendly acitvities in Mexico City and the surrounding area. (chapultepec.org)

Summer is now in full swing, bringing not only the rain and heat but school vacations too! Luckily, Mexico City and its surroundings have plenty to offer families looking for a great time. From cultural excursions and historical landmarks to vibrant markets and culinary delights, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. 

This summer, dare to get to know a different Mexico, one which will keep the whole family happy and entertained. Whether you’re looking for adventure, relaxation or educational experiences, Mexico City promises an unforgettable summer filled with new discoveries and cherished memories. 

Lucha libre and the Antique Toy Museum, CDMX

Pair a trip to the weird and wonderful Antique Toy Museum with the dazzling drama of the lucha libre.  (Tripadvisor)

Sites in the central Doctores neighborhood of the Cuauhtémoc have defined the Chilango culture. The Antique Toy Museum (MUJAM) has become a must-see destination, bridging the divide between generations through play. Connect with your little ones by showing them the toys you loved from your childhood and compare how the classics have evolved over the decades.

Since you’re in the area, why not catch a lucha libre show at the Arena México, the Cathedral of Lucha Libre wrestling. The venue, probably the most famous in the country, was inaugurated in 1956, and everyone who visits Mexico City should go at least once.

Entry to the Antique Toy Museum is 50 pesos. For the Lucha Libre, prices may vary depending on the fighters. 

Chapultepec Zoo and Botanical Garden

Get up close and personal with nature at Chapultepec Zoo. (Tripadvisor)

The 686 sprawling hectares of Chapultepec Park are filled with nature, activities and hidden wonders to enjoy. One of the best known Chapultepec Zoo, with its new Anifibium Axolotl Museum, an amphibian conservation and protection center promoting the preservation of Mexico’s most beloved endemic animal

Additionally, the space has workshops for children and interactive exhibition rooms. Don’t forget to buy your changuito mión — the park’s iconic water-squirting monkey headgear souvenir — at the end of the tour.

Before leaving the park, visit the Botanical Garden to contemplate the infinity of native plants and its magnificent orchid garden. Entry is free. 

Estrella Biopark, México state

¡Bioparque Estrella Ven a vivirlo!

Kids are fascinated by animals and dinosaurs, and this park, located near Mexico City, has both. At 300 square hectares in size, you can see 500 species roaming free here. You can even feed some of them, including the giraffes. On the Jurassic River, the youngest members of your family can discover different species of (animatronic) dinosaurs, complete with roars and movement. What are you waiting for?

Bioparque Estrella is located at kilometer 38.5 of the Ixtlahuaca-Jilotepec highway, Chapa de Mota. Tickets currently costs 380 pesos, but there are usually promotions.

Africam Safari, Puebla

Safari Seguro Para Toda la Familia en Africam Safari

You can visit this animal sanctuary just two hours away from Mexico City. For more than 50 years, Africam Safari has become a must-visit for children near the capital. 

Although similar to the zoo, the safari-like tour means your kids can experience nature in a more authentic setting. Africam has capybaras, elephants, flamingos, antelopes, buffalo, peccaries, hippos, lions and more. In January, the park also became home to Benito the giraffe after he was saved from a public park in Ciudad Juárez.

Entrance is 385 pesos for adults and 340 for children between 3 and 11. 

Volcanic Park, Puebla

You’ll find a great option for long weekends away on the slopes of Pico de Orizaba. The Volcanic Park is not only one of the best places for children near Mexico City but also a great option to visit with friends or as a couple for a fun filled day. The natural park offers around 30 outdoor activities, including lake rides, go karts, a maze, hanging bridges and zip lines. And yes, it also has an area populated by animatronic dinosaurs to surprise the little ones.

General admission is 350 pesos and includes all activities. Volcanic Park is located in San Juan Arcos Ojo de Agua in Ciudad Serdán.

If you don’t want to leave Mexico City, there are many spaces designed specifically for the entertainment of the little ones. Check out the Papalote Children’s Museum, Hasbro City and Kidzania for more inspiration! 

Camila Sánchez Bolaño is a journalist, feminist, bookseller, lecturer, and cultural promoter and is Editor in Chief of Newsweek en Español magazine.

Try your hand at these delicious apricot dessert tacos

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Apricot tacos.
Make the most of Mexico's most underrated fruit with these apricot dessert tacos. (Whitney Bond)

When it comes to fresh fruit, apricots are something of a black sheep. They do not make the top ten list of consumed fresh fruits in either Mexico or the United States, but they should! Try these sweet, enticing apricot tacos for a whole new look at their flavor.

Low in calories and fat, apricots are packed with powerful antioxidants that benefit eye health and improve digestion, including beta carotene and vitamins A, C and E. They also protect the heart and guard against diabetes due to their flavonoid content that includes quercetin, for example. 

Why do we not eat more apricots? They’re fresh, tasty and great for your health. (Kate Laine/Unsplash)

The vitamins in apricots protect the skin from free radicals. Vitamin C helps prevent UV damage and build collagen. Beta carotene, on the other hand, reduces sunburn risk. Apricots also promote a healthy gut due to their fiber content, are high in potassium, and are very hydrating due to the amount of water they contain. 

They’re also delicious! Resembling a small peach, apricots belong to the fruit family, which includes cherries, plums, nectarines, and even almonds. They have a unique flavor that’s sweet but tart like a plum. They’re sweet — but tart like a plum; their flavor is unique.

Apricots appeared on the Russian-Chinese border about 3000 B.C. and later, their seeds were imported to Europe. They are an “escaped” natural tree that grows freely along roadsides in Armenia and Turkey (the latter now being the largest producer of apricots in the world). They were introduced to the Ancient Greeks and then to the Roman Empire in the first century A.D., who named the fruit praecocum, the “precocious one,” because it bloomed earlier in Summer. It finally made its way to Spain around 1100. One can only assume that they traveled to Mexico during the Colonial Period (1521-1821), when Spain introduced a vast number of fruits and vegetables to the country. From there they traveled up the west coast to what is now California, which is now the States’ leading apricot producer. 

It’s unclear quite when apricots arrived in Mexico, but it’s a safe bet to assume it was due to Spanish influence. (Mireya Novo/Cuartoscuro)

The apricots found in Mexico are grown here, primarily in the states of Sonora and Chihuahua, which have the best climate and the right soil to meet their needs. The obvious question is: what should we make with these luscious, little gems? I’m thinking along the lines of adding a touch of mascarpone cheese and other goodies to turn them into a Mexican dessert delight.

So let’s talk mascarpone. Sweet and creamy, this cheese originated in the Lombardy region of Italy sometime around the 16th century. Mascarpone is versatile and makes a fabulous frosting or tiramisu. It can also be substituted for cream cheese in all your baking recipes and only has two ingredients, so why not make it with the untouchable excellence of dairy found in Mexico?

Apricot Dessert Tacos

Try adding some ground cinnamon and brown sugar to sweeten the apricots. (Freepik)

Ingredients

  • 1 lb (.45 kilo) apricots (chabacano), peeled and sliced 
  • 1 lemon, juiced (limón)
  • ¼ cup water
  • 1 tsp. ground cinnamon (canela)
  • ½ cup brown sugar (azúcar morena)
  • 1 cup (240 g) mascarpone cheese (queso mascarpone)
    • Found in dairy section of supermarkets. Or make your own. Recipe follows.
  • ¼ cup (30 g) powdered sugar (azúcar glas)
  • 1 Tbsp. (13 g) vanilla extract (extracto de vanilla)
  • 8 small flour tortillas
  • 2 Tbsp. (28.35 g) butter (mantequilla)
  • 2 Tbsp. (25 g) cinnamon sugar
    • Make your own: Mix ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar (Sp. azúcar estándar) with 2 Tbsp. (15.6 g) ground cinnamon (Sp. canela). Store in an air-tight container.
  • ¼ cup (84 g) honey (miel)

Instructions

  • Preheat oven to 425°F. (218 C)
  • Place sliced apricots in a large skillet over medium heat.
  • Top with the lemon juice and water.
  • Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.
  • Cook for 10-12 minutes until caramelized. 
  • In a large bowl, whip together mascarpone, powdered sugar and vanilla. 
  • Place the cheese mixture in the middle of each tortilla.
  • Top with caramelized apricots.
  • Roll the tacos tightly and place on a baking sheet.
  • Brush with butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar.
  • Bake for 12-15 minutes.
  • Remove from oven and immediately drizzle with honey.

Homemade Mascarpone Cheese

Mascarpone cream
Recipe adapted from recipesfromitaly.com. (Frugal Hausfrau)

Ingredients

  • 2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream (Crema para batir)
    • Crema para batir is high in butter fat, usually between 36%-40%, which will make for an excellent, rich, creamy mascarpone.
  • 1 ½ tsp. (7 ml) filtered fresh lemon juice (Jugo de limón) 

NOTE: Requires a candy thermometer. 

Instructions

  • Squeeze the lemon and strain the juice. 
  • Place heavy cream in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir continually as the cream heats so the water evaporates. The temperature should reach 180°F-185°F (82°C-85°C). Use a thermometer to test. 
  • Once the temperature is reached, turn off the heat and add lemon juice. Stir for a few minutes. The cream will start to thicken. Once it does, cover the saucepan and let it sit for one hour.
  • Take a large strainer and place a thin, clean dishcloth (or tea towel or cheesecloth) inside the strainer. Put the strainer on top of a large bowl and pour the cream mixture into the dishcloth. The remaining water will pass through the dishcloth and into the bowl. Discard the water. What remains in the dishcloth is mascarpone! (You did it, but have a way to go!)
  • Take the strainer and once again, place it over the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator. The process of filtering and separating the liquid from the creamy part of the cheese continues and takes about 24 hours. Keep refrigerated. 
  • After 24 hours, remove the bowl from the refrigerator. The mixture will be solid mascarpone! Scoop it out with a spoon and put in a covered container. Discard the remainder. 

Disfruta!

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” via CakeChatter (available @amazon.com). She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals™ (aa-wp.com).

MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Baja California Sur

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MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Baja California Sur
Comfortable, accessible expat living can be yours where the desert meets the Pacific Ocean in Baja California Sur. (Fiesta Americana Travelty)

Your first glance at this week’s ratings for Baja California Sur might make you think that the state just doesn’t cut it for year-round or seasonal living. Of the five places we rate, four are in the twos on our one-to-five scale. The state’s tourism superstar, Los Cabos, only comes in with a humble 4.0. This place must have problems, you might conclude.

But spend some time here and you’ll see that there are tangibles and intangibles not captured in our attempt to convey the essence of Mexico living: attributes that reveal Baja Sur’s raw beauty, frontier spirit and micro-destination personalities. There are superlatives about the state that just don’t stand out in our rankings. That’s okay. Tens of thousands of desert-meets-the-sea lovers will attest to how Baja Sur living is unlike the rest of Mexico. It always has been.

From colonial outpost to tourist’s dream

The state is rich in colonial history, perfect for those seeking a deeper connection to Mexico’s Spanish past. (Baja Travel Club)

Just as the Baja Peninsula broke away from mainland Mexico some two million years ago, any discussion of Baja Sur living today must grapple with whether living near the tip of a remote desert can be a sustainable choice. It’s Mexico’s least populated state, has the country’s longest coastline, the greatest amount of protected area and the most uninhabited islands. The state is mostly jagged mountains and barren coastal plains with almost no surface water. The Spanish and their evangelizing orders only gained a tenuous foothold in the 18th century, leaving a legacy of 16 outpost missions. When it became a state in 1974, Baja Sur was home to a mere 128,000 residents.

But no one would cast Baja Sur as insignificant today. It’s one of three states in Mexico that attract the lion’s share of international visitors. Los Cabos’ hotels have the highest average daily occupation rate in all of Mexico, and its two coasts are biological miracles and the wellspring for the one activity that unites Baja Sur culture: fishing. 

Starting with the Climate criteria of our ratings, Los Cabos bakes in the summer and has experienced almost annual hurricane or tropical storm disruptions in the past ten years. Slide up the west coast to the village of Todos Santos and Pacific cooling helps some. To the east, summers are sweltering in Cabo del Este and La Paz. Head north to Loreto and you’ll embrace a temperate fall and spring, bookended by winter chills and summer sweats. Sea temperatures around Loreto range from 68 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 Celcius). Not really four seasons, but a semblance of variety.

Los Cabos has the best air Connectivity for getting back home or to mainland Mexico. Loreto and La Paz have limited domestic and very limited seasonal international flights. 

Baja Sur is sprawling. Long distances separate its resorts and cities, but it’s scenic driving as you move from Los Cabos up to La Paz or on to Loreto. Medical Care can also present challenges. You’ll likely find a doctor you love, but Baja Sur isn’t known for specialized medicine or tier-three hospitals.

Los Cabos

Los Cabos
Mexico living does not come cheaply in Los Cabos, but it does offer luxury and convenience at every turn. (Fiesta Americana Travelty)

Los Cabos living draws the most attention. The destination is now a hit for vacationers across the United States and there are even seasonal non-stop flights from Europe. Not so long ago, there were three geographically defined zones of Los Cabos: colonial and quiet San José, the tequila-drenched cruise port and fishing marina of San Lucas and a corridor of swanky resorts and golf courses linking the two. 

Today, with over 350,000 residents and a freeway-like artery between San José and San Lucas, the lifestyle distinctions from place to place have been blurred. It’s a dollarized economy and any semblance of affordable living is long gone. But there’s truly world-class golf, dining, sportfishing and desert and ocean living that nowhere else in Mexico can match.

Todos Santos

Quiet Todos Santos basks in colonial charm, with a great lifestyle for those who choose to base themselves here. (Visit Los Cabos)

You’ll experience a very different vibe in trendy Todos Santos, a 45-minute drive up the Pacific coast from San Lucas. One of Baja Sur’s prettiest colonial mission settlements, Todos Santos is today a hub for organic farming and a surfer and artisan’s grove. The village ambience looks likely to eventually yield to development pressures leaking up the coast from Cabo; however, it’s still a town that maintains a sense of place, neighborly relations between Mexican and newcomers,  and some fairly sophisticated lifestyle amenities, including dining, wine shops, galleries and cool bars

La Paz

While still a city, La Paz has retained that authentic feeling of Mexico living that other cities in the state have since lost – for now. (Tripadvisor)

La Paz may come closest to combining natural beauty with a local community vibe that reflects truer Baja traditions. The city is a leading destination for sustainably embracing the great outdoors in a city and regional gateway to the incomparable Gulf of California, augmented by the municipality’s whale-inhabited lagoons, serrated mountains, mining towns, fishing villages and austere European missions. But beware: Cabo-fication is underway as Baja Sur lovers get priced out of southern tip real estate. 

The state capital, La Paz is also a commercial port for fishing and mainland ferry connectivity and is home to what may be Mexico’s most enchanting malecón, which stretches for a little over three miles (five kilometers). Historic sites are just blocks from the city’s playful boardwalk and its plentiful seafood dining, bars, public art, piers and cycling and jogging paths. A cohort of high season expat residents unite around volunteering, beach days, house parties, the open-mic music scene and soft eco-adventure outings to nearby islands or up into the mountains and the charming mining town of El Triunfo. It’s the good life for desert living with jaw-dropping white sand beaches a short drive from downtown.

Points south of La Paz

Windswept beaches and sparkling ocean characterizes most of the villages and towns south of La Paz. (Westend61/Fabian Pitzer)

Heading south from La Paz, you’ll find coastal villages like El Sargento and adjacent La Ventana, which face the breathtaking La Ventana Bay. This area has been proclaimed the “home of the wind” for its consistent shore breeze that attracts wind and kite surfing enthusiasts from around the world. Sportfishing, diving, the Rancho Cacachilas Adventure Club and yoga and meditation centers make La Ventana one of the area’s up-and-coming micro-destinations. 

Further south are Los Barriles and next-door Buena Vista. This is where pioneering sportfishing camps put the East Cape on the map years ahead of Los Cabos. Sportfishing is the main anchor, especially for Marlin and dozens of feisty gamefish species. Los Barriles is 65 miles south of La Paz, off Highway 1.

Loreto

Loreto and nearby Loreto Bay (seen here) offer comfortable, if remote, living and an 18-hole golf course. (Ronival)


Loreto is another choice that can work for village-seeking, nature-loving northerners who don’t really care about connectivity, Costco or mainland Mexico cultural icons. With a population of under 20,000, Loreto is another of Mexico’s second-tier planned resorts that never caught on. Today it forges ahead in one of Baja’s most scenic settings, known for its sportfishing, nearby islands and affordability. 

Loreto faces the Sea of Cortez and three remarkable desert islands. A flat seafront plain is backed by the scenic and wild Sierra de La Giganta. It’s one of Mexico’s most dramatic coastal settings, home to Baja’s original mission settlement vestiges of 17th century architecture. 

The village spreads westward from the seaside boardwalk that extends along a rock jetty and includes Loreto’s sportfishing marina. The malecón is ideal for walking, cycling and some wildlife viewing. Imposing Isla del Carmen dominates views toward the Sea of Cortez. 

Nopolo and Loreto Bay

These cities are considered an alternative to living in town. Just three miles south of the city and separated by the Loreto Airport, this area has evolved to become a residential retirement development with over 600 homes and 18-hole golf, but not much commercial development. An active HOA has saved the development coming out of bankruptcy some years back.

Wherever you choose to settle across Baja Sur, your constant companions are broad vistas, clear desert air and starry nights. Who could have a problem with that? 

The ratings

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here, including ratings for Yucatán, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo and Baja California.

Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com. 



My favorite thing to do in Cozumel

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While most people associate Cozumel with perfect beaches, the nature inland is every bit as stunning too. (All photos by Bel Woodhouse)

When people ask me about fun things to do in Cozumel, I can’t wait to tell them about this tour. The Tree Lovers Tour, with tour guide Tati Biermas, explores the jungle in the heart of the island. Nature walks are an amazing way to connect with the environment around us, and Cozumel is no exception.

They’re often surprised. Cozumel is famous for scuba diving and water sports. So many people forget about the rest of the island. But there is a wealth of wonder when you turn inland. 

A native orchid growing on a tree near the Mayan ruins, San Gervasio, on Cozumel.

Is it only trees?

No, it’s more than just that. It’s every layer of the jungle. Discovering native flora and fauna. Butterflies and berries at eye level. Fungi and flowers from the forest floor to the treetops. Plus, orchids and epiphytes on the trunks of trees all the way up into the canopy.

There are edible delights like the Tamarind tree. Covered in graceful orchid-like flowers, the tree seems to hum. Thousands of tiny native stingless bees are busy pollinating. In about six months, there will be thousands of tamarind pods ready for harvest.

An easy walk for all ages

I’ve done this tour twice and can’t wait to go back and do it again soon. Each time, the group has had people all ages and fitness levels, so if you’re worried about the hike — don’t be! The walking tracks are easy and flat. There are no hills to climb or obstacles to scramble over. The worst you’ll see is a larger rock or tree root. But if you watch where you’re going, it’s a very easy, relaxed walk.

This is about taking time to enjoy nature and observe what is around you. Or to stop in awe when an electric blue flash catches your eye. Blue morph butterflies are everywhere, flying across your path in striking contrast to the green hues around you. They are impossible to ignore, and most people excitedly point them out. “Morpho, morpho, morpho” is the most common phrase I hear on these tours.  

Trekking through the forests of Cozumel.

Some people chase them up the track, trying to get a photo. That’s always fun to watch, as their flight is quite erratic. And that’s okay; we all stop and wait. Trust me, you wouldn’t be the first person to do it, and you won’t be the last. I still find myself doing it every single time!

What animals do you see? 

Birds, bugs and beetles. Lizards are lazing on logs, and bees, butterflies and moths are all busy pollinating flowers (plus some unidentifiable creatures that scurry off into the jungle). While they’re mostly gone before you get close enough to see them, I’ve been lucky enough to spot everything from coatis to tiny pigs. 

And don’t forget to look down! I almost stumbled over a turtle in a puddle last time.

Flashes of color will catch your eye. Golden yellows and vibrant reds. The sound of birdsong helps Tati guess which birds are nearby. There are shining emeralds on hummingbirds and scarlet wingtips on postman butterflies. Seeing blue morphos is pretty much guaranteed. From the floor to the canopy, the jungle has plenty of wildlife to enjoy.

Can you see the turtle hidden in the puddle? Cozumel is filled with nature.

Learning about the trees

Tati shares the legends, tales, and medicinal uses of plants and trees. She also tells us their Mayan names, stories, and how they are used in the region. A perfect example is the Ceiba. Sacred to the Maya, it’s a symbol of the universe. The tree represents a connection between the underworld, this world and the heavens. Its thorn-covered trunk is very distinctive, so you’ll recognize it quickly. 

Or the Shi’ite palm, whose leaves are only gathered at a special time in the moon’s cycle, lasting ten times longer as a thatched roof on the traditional homes which dot the island. Flashes of color will catch your eye throughout the whole tour. Golden yellows and vibrant reds alongside every color of the rainbow. 

Tati also explains how some trees are kept alive by others around them. They share a network, passing sugars and food to sustain a fallen tree, helping it survive.

Forest bathing and a refreshing drink

The colors and sights of the walk are dazzlingly beautiful.

There is a break halfway through. Some time to rest and relax, taking time to immerse yourself in the nature around you. Tati allows this time for forest bathing and meditation. This reduces stress, calms the mind and soaks up the energy of nature.

After a refreshing drink, it’s then time for a nice walk back. The walk ends near the San Gervasio ruins in the heart of Cozumel — another fun thing to explore. This tree tour is one of the top things to do on Cozumel for good reason. I will certainly be doing plenty more in future.

Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.

Ladling liquid gold: Mexico’s coziest soups

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While it might be famous for tacos and seafood, it turns out Mexico does soup really, really well. (Maricruz Ávalos)

The rainy season is upon us. Here in Mexico City, gray skies break to give way to long stretches of moody storms, punctuated by ominous thunder and flashes of lightning. In just a half hour, the weather can switch dizzyingly from rays of sunshine glistening through the trees to chilly torrential downpours that leave one galloping to the nearest awning for cover.

Yet, thankfully, Mexico has mastered not only the art of four seasons in a single day but  some of the most delicious hot soups to combat these chilly moments. Below, we’ve presented a curated selection of broths and stews that will deliver steaming liquid comfort to your soul and taste buds.

Pozole: Ancient broth, endless garnish

Pozole might just be the most garnished soup in the entire world. (Gastro Lab)

Pozole’s robust set of overflowing garnishes makes it the king of soups. But it isn’t just soup; it’s a pre-Columbian ritual in a bowl. Its hearty base broth is made from hominy and meat, typically pork or chicken. Pozole often comes in three main varieties: blanco, verde and rojo, with the latter being the most popular. 

The red version is made with a rich sauce of dried red chilis, such as guajillo and ancho, which gives it a vibrant color and depth of flavor, while the green uses green chilis such as jalapeños and serrano peppers, as well as fresh herbs. Pozole blanco omits the use of chilis, allowing the flavors of the other ingredients to shine through. The real magic happens tableside, where diners adorn their bowls with fresh toppings such as avocado, cabbage, radishes and a spritz of lime.

Menudo: Hair of the… cow?

After the mariachis go home and the tequila bottles are properly emptied, Mexicans turn to menudo, the ultimate morning-after cure. Menudo is a dish for the strong. It’s made primarily from slow-cooked beef tripe, simmered in a flavorful broth of hominy, chili peppers and mixed spices. 

Menudo comes in two kinds: rojo, with its fiery chili punch, or blanco, for those who prefer their hangover remedy with a little less kick. Topped with fresh cilantro, onions and lime, the soup is rumored to cure everything from splitting headaches to hangxiety. In Mexico, menudo is a popular choice for festive occasions, particularly on weekends and holidays. 

Tortilla soup: Like tomato soup, but cooler

What happens when you mix chilaquiles with tomato soup? This, I guess. (All Recipes)

Born in the streets of Mexico City, sopa de tortilla, also known as sopa Azteca, features a base of chicken broth enriched with tomatoes, garlic and spices. It’s further elevated by a handful of crunchy tortilla strips and topped with creamy avocado, melted cheese, a squeeze of lime and a dollop of sour cream. 

It’s a rollercoaster of texture and flavor that takes your average tomato soup, dresses it up in a hot stylish outfit and brings it to an underground salsa club and then a 4 a.m. afterparty before tucking it into a comfy king-sized bed. In short, it takes you on a vibrant adventure of taste and then leaves you warm and satisfied, relishing your experience.

Caldo tlalpeño: Abuelita’s medicine

This one is like your grandma’s chicken noodle soup but without the noodles. A homey dish born in Tlalpan, caldo tlalpeño offers a tender chicken and vegetable medley swimming in a chili-spiked broth with a hint of chipotle for a smokey flavor. 

Like many Mexican soups, caldo tlalpeño is garnished with creamy avocado, zesty lime and fresh cilantro. Popular when the weather turns chilly — by Mexico City standards, at least — it’s grandma’s prescription for ailments from the blues to the flu and beyond.

Caldo de res: A hearty hug in a bowl

Don’t you just feel healthier for looking at this soup? I know I do. (The Daily Meal)

This hearty soup is made with beef shanks and a garden of vegetables, including carrots, potatoes, corn and zucchini. The dish is simmered over several hours, which allows the flavors to release and blend into a rich and comforting broth. Caldo de res is often served with lime, fresh herbs and tortillas or a side of rice and is a staple of Mexican cuisine.

Sopa de lima: Citrus, chicken and crunch

Hailing from the sun-drenched Yucatán Peninsula where citrus flavors shine, sopa de lima holds to the characteristic flavors of the region. Made with golden chicken broth flavored with lime juice, this traditional soup’s accompanied by shredded chicken and vegetables including onion, fire-roasted tomatoes and mild peppers sauteed with minced garlic. 

As a garnish, crispy tortilla strips are added, along with fresh lime, cilantro and creamy avocado that complement the tangy flavor of the soup. A dish with colonial and Maya origins, sopa de lima’s vibrant flavor is a cultural testament to the rich culinary traditions of Mexico.

Lime soup is actually a lot more delicious than you might think. (Serious Eats)

Sopa de hongos: Mushroom magic

This mushroom soup is magical, but not in a psychedelic way. Featuring an earthy blend of both wild and cultivated fungi, sopa de hongos bathes its mycological gems in a savory broth of garlic, onions and a variety of herbs. 

Topped with a swirl of cream and a sprinkle of fresh cilantro, the soup can be served as either an appetizer or a main dish. Numerous studies have shown that mushrooms are rich in vitamins and nutrients, but the pleasure of sopa de hongos goes beyond health benefits.

Sopa de elote: Summer on a spoon

The corn of Mexico is the stuff of legends and dreams. This is unmistakably reflected in the creamy concoction known as sopa de elote. Fresh corn kernels are blended with broth and a touch of cream, resulting in a soup so smooth it could charm the pants off any romantic conquest. Typically garnished with crumbly queso fresco or fresh herbs, its sweet yet savory flavor is the liquid equivalent of a perfect summer day– warm, golden and cheery.

A tradition beyond broth

While there are certainly dozens of other soups to delight the palate and warm the soul, we’ve started you off with a couple of the most satisfying ones. And like most culinary treasures in Mexico, these dishes go beyond their delicious flavor to offer a dose of history, regional pride and liquid love from generation to generation. 

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.

Could education be a barrier to Mexico’s nearshoring success?

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Mexican schoolchildren sitting on chairs outside
Education will be key to capitalizing on nearshoring in Mexico, argues Mexico News Daily CEO Travis Bembenek. (Shutterstock)

Nearshoring has the potential to transform Mexico’s economy and workforce. But could lack of education be a barrier to success?

Much has been written about how this once-in-a-generation nearshoring opportunity can bring billions of dollars of investment and millions of new jobs to the country. Perhaps most exciting is the fact that many of these jobs have the potential to be higher-skilled ones in areas like R&D, engineering, information technology, logistics, and more.

Industries as diverse as automotive, medical devices, aerospace, data centers and semiconductors, to name a few, will all be clamoring for skilled Mexican talent.

But will the talent be educated enough to support these investments?

Most business leaders and politicians tend to talk about four main areas where Mexico needs to significantly improve in order to take full advantage of the nearshoring opportunity: water, energy, infrastructure, and security.

There is no doubt that each of these areas needs major attention, significant investment, and step-change improvements. But what about education? Could that be a barrier to success as well? Let me share a few numbers.

Mexico continually scores among the lowest of the 38 OECD countries worldwide in standardized PISA tests.

The most recent 2022 tests showed 47% of Mexican 15-year-old students scored below Level 2 in reading (the OECD average for Level 2 or higher in reading is 74%). In other words, their comprehension skills will limit their ability to apply what they are reading in order to learn further. This means nearly one in two Mexican kids will be less prepared to work in high-skill jobs as adults — without significant, costly and time-consuming training conducted by the companies hiring them.

To help understand the scale of this problem for Mexico, I interviewed Andreas Schleicher, a German mathematical statistician and researcher who currently is the Director for Education and Skills at the OECD in Paris, France.

“Mexico’s schools today will be Mexico’s economy tomorrow,” he told me. “If Mexico could ensure that all 15-year-old students could achieve a Level 2 in the PISA reading exam, which is the level at which one reads for learning and understanding, it would add over US $6 trillion to the Mexican economy over the working life of these 15-year-olds.”

“Raising literacy levels is not a technically complex issue,” Schleicher continued. “Countries like Vietnam, Peru, and Colombia have all made rapid improvements on this matter.”

Many of the manufacturing jobs that historically were in China and are now being moved to Mexico were low-skill jobs. Every company that moves manufacturing to Mexico has to consider and assess how they will manage investments in two important aspects of the business: CAPEX and OPEX.

CAPEX stands for Capital Expenditures, which are for things like factories, equipment, automation, robotics, etc. OPEX stands for Operating Expenditures, which are investments in people — the employees.

Imagine for a moment that you are looking to move manufacturing from a plant in China to one in Mexico. You have to decide on the balance of investment that will go into CAPEX versus OPEX. To help make this decision, part of the evaluation process includes an assessment of the availability, skills and relative costs of the local labor force. If the labor force is relatively unskilled, the company will likely decide to invest less money in CAPEX and more in OPEX, resulting in a large number of low-skilled workers doing unskilled work.

This might result in more net jobs, but they will be low-paid ones with little chance to learn, grow and advance. This is obviously not ideal for Mexican workers in the medium and long term. The other option the company would have is to invest in a significant amount of automation (more CAPEX) that requires relatively few workers (low OPEX) due to the lack of availability of skilled workers. This isn’t an ideal option for Mexican workers either, as it would result in much less overall employment.

What would be ideal from the vantage point of the Mexican economy and workers would be for the companies investing in Mexico to have confidence in the level of education, skills and availability of the Mexican workforce, so that companies would invest in significant CAPEX (to do the most basic, low-skill work) while still allowing for significant OPEX to hire workers to do higher-level skills, like engineering, automation R&D etc.

Getting this right is incredibly important. It would allow for the maximum number of jobs to be created that are higher-skilled, higher-paid and have the potential to grow. Getting this wrong would be a huge missed opportunity for the country, resulting in mostly low-paid, low-skilled jobs that don’t allow for learning and growth of the workforce.

Is Mexico doing enough to improve education so that this sweet spot of hiring takes place?

The testing data would clearly show that it is not, but changing public education systems in any country is not a quick or easy process.

This is why some private organizations are stepping in to help fill the void. One such example is an organization called 311Literacy, which is focused on improving reading skills and comprehension for both Hispanic kids in the U.S. and Mexican kids.

311Literacy has created easy-to-use software that tracks reading time and comprehension across thousands of books. The organization has also created a bi-national reading tournament in which kids can win prizes and gain recognition for themselves and their schools. The most recent tournament was completed in May, and nearly 5,000 children participated.

The next reading tournament is scheduled for November of this year and has a goal of 50,000 kids participating. The goal of 311Literacy is to significantly grow participation further, inspiring kids to find the joy and rewards of reading.

Every business and political leader in the country should hope they are successful and embrace what they are doing, as success will lead to better-prepared young adults entering the workforce.

If you want to learn more about 311Literacy or help accelerate their work with your time, energy or financial resources, check out their website here.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

San Luis Potosí’s former penitentiary is its best museum

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Centro de las Artes de San Luis Potosí Centenario Leonora Carrington Museum
While San Luis Potosí might not get the recognition it deserves, the Centro de las Artes de San Luis Potosí Centenario is helping put the city on the map. (All photos by Meagan Drillinger)

San Luis Potosí has always been on my bucket list for its thundering waterfalls, milky blue natural pools, and steamy rainforest. So I surprised myself when my first visit to this state in central Mexico had nothing to do with nature at all. Instead, I hit the cobblestone streets of its 400-year-old capital city in the desert highlands to explore a different kind of visual feast — a 19th-century prison that has been revitalized as one of the best museums in the state.

The stony walls of San Luis Potosí’s former penitentiary set an imposing scene. The twin turrets of the main gate loom ominously on either side of a soaring archway sealed by massive wooden doors. At first glance, the structure feels straight out of Shawshank Redemption. If these walls could talk, they’d tell a story of pain and punishment. This was, after all, the largest penitentiary in the state for more than 100 years. But behind the carved wooden doors, the story starts to shift. Color seeps in, and you feel the energy change. Today, this once somber prison has been transformed into one of the best museums in San Luis Potosí — a center for inspiration, creativity, education, and rebirth.

Leonora Carrington museum SLP
The imposing architecture reminds visitors that this museum was once a place of suffering. Much of that is now gone, replaced by a modern, vibrant center for culture and arts. (Meagan Drillinger)

San Luis Potosí is renowned for its natural beauty and colonial history. But it also boasts a vibrant art scene through its dozens of museums. At the heart of this creative scene is the Centro de las Artes de San Luis Potosí Centenario, a unique institution that combines historical significance with contemporary artistic expression. 

A Historic Transformation

The bones of the Centro de las Artes are the former prison walls, a neoclassical structure that dates back to the late 19th century. Passing through the main gates, the space opens up to a bright, open-air courtyard, which then funnels visitors deeper into the belly of the former prison. Opened in 2008, the center stands today as a testament to the transformative power of art and culture.

In theory, penitentiaries can be places of rehabilitation and rebirth, and the structure’s transformation into a creative space helps bring that metaphor to life. The original stone walls and iron bars have been preserved, providing a stark contrast to the modern art installations. Passing between the different art spaces, you’ll wander the historic pathways surrounded by sky-high stone walls on either side. After you enter the cell blocks, you are jolted back to the present day and the space’s transformation. Each wing has been reimagined as a center for a different discipline, from art galleries and dance studios to music spaces, digital art, science, and humanities. 

San Luis Potosí is a visual stunner of a city with architecture that dates back more than 400 years. It’s no surprise that the Centro de las Artes is equally fascinating, with its grand facades and elegant columns juxtaposed against modern sculptures, including the center watchtower, which is painted with a different theme every month. Modern glass and steel structures have been woven into the historic framework of the old prison, creating new spaces for exhibitions while still paying tribute to the penitentiary’s past.  

Leonora Carrington museum SLP
Modern architecture has been woven into the colonial stonework to create a perfect setting for art and culture to be genuinely appreciated. (Meagan Drillinger)

Deeper within the grounds, more life and color pop into view, from bright purple bougainvillea blossoms to desert cactus flower gardens, babbling water features, and stunning sculptures. The Centro de Las Artes is more than a museum; it’s a dynamic cultural hub. Former cells have been converted into pocket-sized galleries featuring rotating contemporary art exhibitions. Exhibitions span everything from painting and sculpture to photography and multimedia. 

But the Centro de las Artes is not only a haven for traditional art forms. Its expansive grounds act as a canvas for street art. Wandering the outdoor pathways, you’ll encounter vibrant murals and graffiti that transform the penitentiary walls into lively expressions of contemporary culture.

Museo Leonora Carrington

While many of the museum’s exhibits are rotating, one of its permanent collections is the Museo Leonora Carrington, dedicated to the life and work of one of Mexico’s great surrealist artists. The museum-within-a-museum opened in 2018 and showcases one of the most extensive collections of Carrington’s enigmatic work. One of the founders of the surrealist movement in Mexico, Carrington is known for her otherworldly paintings, sculptures, and drawings. You can dive deep into Carrington’s fantastical world, where mythological creatures and dreamlike landscapes come to life. 

From her early paintings depicting whimsical, bizarre scenes to her later sculptures exploring themes of mythology and magic, the museum highlights the depth and breadth of Carrington’s imagination. Each outdoor courtyard is dedicated to a larger-than-life example of some of her most famous sculptures.

Half dream, half nightmare, Carrington’s work dominates the installations at the Centro de las Artes. (Meagan Drillinger)

Performances and Events

The Centro de las Artes is one of the city’s top venues for performances and cultural events. The theater and performance spaces regularly host concerts, dance performances, theater, and film screenings.

Each summer, the penitentiary grounds become a buzzy food and wine hotspot with the San Luis Potosí Wine Festival. Wine tastings, expert-led workshops, and gourmet pairings bring winemakers (and wine drinkers) from around the region to dig deep into the viticulture of San Luis Potosí and the surrounding areas. Live music, art exhibitions, and cultural performances make this one of the most exciting events in the city.  

Other Museums in San Luis Potosí

While the Centro de las Artes is the most impressive museum in San Luis Potosí, the art appreciation does not end beyond the prison walls. The city is overflowing with art institutions. The Museo Frederico Silva, for example, housed in a 17th-century hospital, has been dedicated to the works of Mexican sculptor Frederick Silva. 

Down the road, the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, located within a former convent, features rotating exhibitions of painting, photography, video, and installations. The National Museum of Masks, Museo de las Máscaras, has one of the most extensive collections of cultural masks from both Mexico and around the world. 

The Museo del Ferrocarril is an Art Deco masterpiece that tells the railway history of San Luis Potosí. The museum is located within a former railway station and showcases Mexico’s railroad heritage through vintage locomotives and railway equipment.

The Bottom Line

San Luis Potosí will forever be one of the top adventure capitals in Mexico, and I still hope to visit its jungle-shrouded waterfalls eventually. But its city art scene was a different kind of visual I was not expecting, and one I would not hesitate to revisit again. 

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

The mystery behind the invention of the Baja fish taco

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Baja style fish taco
It's known and loved across the Americas, but how did the Baja-style fish taco come to be so popular? (Rubio’s Coastal Grill)

In 1974, a San Diego State student named Raph Rubio took a seasonal break from his studies in psychology and Spanish to accompany friends on a Spring Break trip across the border to San Felipe. The highlight of the trip — at least for Rubio — was the abundance of stands serving delicious fish tacos. Rubio even managed to score a recipe, and by 1983 he was selling a personalized version of the fish taco (dubbed the “original fish taco”) at his first namesake restaurant in San Diego. More restaurants would follow as the Rubio’s Coastal Grill restaurant chain rapidly grew, ultimately topping out at about 200 locations and helping to popularize the fish taco as a staple of SoCal culture and cuisine before recent economic issues necessitated numerous closures.

But, of course, Rubio didn’t invent the fish taco, any more than the owners of the stands in San Felipe did. When he later returned to San Felipe to offer money to the taquero named Carlos who had generously shared his recipe, Rubio discovered he had decamped to Ensenada. This was somewhat fitting, as Ensenada is considered the true birthplace of the modern Baja-style fish taco, and it was likely one of the early pioneers from that city who had brought the invention to San Felipe, kicking off the proliferation of stands that had so charmed Rubio during his Spring Break visit there half a century ago.

How the Baja-style fish taco was born

Corn tortillas, crisp batter, pico de Gallo, gallons of of lime and fresh soft, white fish. These are the humble building blocks of the Baja-style fish taco. (Mercado Negro)

Corn tortillas have been around for thousands of years and fishing dates back even further. So there’s little doubt that fish tacos have been consumed since ancient times. But the Baja-style version – beer-battered, deep-fried fish served in corn tortillas with signature toppings plus a squeeze of lime juice – originated in Ensenada in the late 1950s or early 1960s. 

The dates are uncertain, but locals remember a Sinaloan known as Mario “El Bachigualato” as the first modern vendor of fish tacos. He began selling his tortilla-wrapped specialties sometime around 1960 at the Mercado Negro. No, not the seafood market as it exists today, but a loose collection of about 20 stands centered nearby, where Agencia Arjona now sits, that specialized in the black market sale of freshly caught fish – and street food. This makeshift market was finally shut down by authorities after a decade of use in 1967. But not before it produced two iconic regional culinary creations: the fish taco and a seafood stew called “caldo de siete mares”.

According to the Ensenada-based newspaper El Vigía, Mario’s tacos at Mercado Negro were originally meat-based. However, it was a seafood market, so it was only a matter of time before he gave in to requests and started grilling up fish tacos made from cheap and plentiful “angelito,” or angelshark (Squatina californica). Yes, grilling. The earliest versions weren’t breaded or deep fried, and the only topping was a salsa bandera, a type of pico de gallo that takes its name from the fact that its ingredients (green serrano chiles, onion, and tomato) mimic the colors of Mexico’s flag. 

The evolution of a classic comfort food

The success of Mario’s fish tacos soon brought competition from rival stand owners like Tamaulipas native Zeferino Mancilla Fortuna and Pedro Alvarado, each of whom put their stamp on the evolving Baja-style fish taco. The former, for example, is credited as being the first to apply a batter to his fish, while the latter was a pioneer in frying technique. Alvarado’s stand had opened by 1961, making him the second of the fish taco trailblazers at the market. By 1963, Mancilla had set up shop, too. Other taqueros, like Tomás Jiménez, and Aurora Rojas Aguilar, followed.

It’s been about sixty years since the invention of the Baja-style fish taco, although the exact identity of the inventor remains unclear. (Tacos Fenix)

These early fish taco makers at Mercado Negro were scattered when the market was closed in 1967. “El Bachigualato,” reputedly a hard drinker, had already turned his stand over to a woman named Socorro Negrete Rivera in 1963. She later gave Rojas her start before, like the others, she was evicted. That’s when she decided to take her fish tacos to San Felipe. So she’s the probable starter of the trend of fish taco stands there and hers may have been among those visited by a young Ralph Rubio and friends in 1974. 

Although no definitive link has been established to Japanese tempura, the similarities in deep frying cooking methods that ultimately evolved for the fish tacos suggest some connection. Ensenada, notably, welcomed many Japanese immigrants in the early decades of the 20th century, with fishing a popular industry for recent arrivals. So whether taqueros were asked to make their delicacies a certain way for Japanese customers or were inspired after visiting Japanese homes or fish camps, it’s almost certainly true that the Baja-style fish taco is a fusion food. 

The Essential Ingredients of a Baja Fish Taco

Over time, all the signature elements of the Baja-style fish taco were developed at Mercado Negro. These include a beer-battered and deep-fried whitefish. Boneless angel shark remains popular in Ensenada – as do versions made with shrimp – but other species are acceptable. Rubio’s, for example, has always favored pollock

The corn tortilla is not negotiable. Nor is the squeeze of lime – at least for traditional preparations. However, lettuce can be used rather than shredded cabbage to accompany the pico de gallo and a “crema” sauce featuring sour cream. 

Where to Find the Perfect Baja Fish Taco

While it may not be the original Baja-style fish taco location, Tacos Floresta has made fans out of hungry locals and food critics alike. (Tacos Floresta)

Aficionados of Baja-style fish tacos will find no shortage of great options. Delicious versions can now be had throughout the Baja California peninsula, from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas. But for those who want to visit the dish’s ancestral home, the oldest extant fish taco purveyor in Ensenada is thought to be Tacos Fénix, which first opened in 1970. It’s still a mecca, nearly as popular with tourists as it is with locals. Tacos Floresta, only a block from Tacos Fénix’s location on Espinoza, also has a long history and many passionate advocates, including the popular food magazine Bon Appétit

Can’t wait for your next trip to Baja California? California is close enough. Rubio’s Coastal Grill, after all, has been serving fish tacos there for more than 40 years, nearly as long as the taqueros who inspired its founder across the border. 

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.