Tuesday, April 29, 2025

How did ‘El Mayo’ end up in US custody?

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El Mayo Zambada
El Mayo's account of events on July 25 — released by his lawyer — suggests he and others were tricked into attending a meeting in Culiacán. (Cuartoscuro)

The lawyer representing captured Sinaloa Cartel leader Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada García has alleged that a son of convicted drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán Loera “forcibly kidnapped” his client before he was put on a plane bound for the United States, where he was arrested last Thursday.

The version of events put forward by Frank Perez, a Texas-based lawyer, contradicts accounts that El Mayo Zambada was tricked into flying to the United States by Joaquín Guzmán López — one of El Chapo’s four living sons — or that the 76-year-old cartel leader decided to turn himself in to U.S. authorities.

Zambada and Guzmán López were arrested at the Doña Ana County International Jetport near El Paso, Texas, after flying into the United States on a private plane. The two men face a range of criminal charges related to their alleged cartel activity. Zambada pleaded not guilty to all charges last Friday.

The alleged kidnapping of El Mayo

Perez said in a statement that Zambada “neither surrendered nor negotiated any terms with the U.S. government” before he flew into the Doña Ana County airport, located about 25 kilometers northwest of El Paso near Santa Teresa, New Mexico.

“Joaquín Guzmán López forcibly kidnapped my client. He was ambushed, thrown to the ground, and handcuffed by six men in military uniforms and Joaquin,” Zambada’s lawyer said.

A mugshot-style photo of Joaquín Guzmán López, Sinaloa Cartel leader and son of "El Chapo"
El Mayo’s lawyer alleged that his client was kidnapped Joaquín Guzmán López, a fellow Sinaloa Cartel leader and son of “El Chapo” Guzmán. (X)

Perez said that Zambada’s “legs were tied, and a black bag was placed over his head.”

“He was then thrown into the back of a pickup truck and taken to a landing strip. There, he was forced onto a plane, his legs tied to the seat by Joaquín, and brought to the U.S. against his will,” the lawyer said.

“The only people on the plane were the pilot, Joaquín and my client,” Perez added.

Citing an unnamed former member of Zambada’s security team who is currently incarcerated, journalists Juan Alberto Cedillo and Ioan Grillo reported Monday that gunmen for Guzmán López “ambushed” Zambada and “overpowered” four of his bodyguards after the Sinaloa Cartel leader was lured to a supposed meeting in Culiacán.

Headshots of journalists Juan Alberto Cedillo and Ioan Grillo, who reported on Zambada's arrest
Journalists Juan Alberto Cedillo and Ioan Grillo reported that gunmen working for Guzmán López kidnapped Zambada in Culiacán, based on information from an anonymous former member of Zambada’s security team. (Ioan Grillo/Juan Alberto Cedillo)

“The gunmen bound El Mayo and took him about 35 km in a car to the ranch of Lazareto. Here El Mayo was forced onto a plane and flown north,” the two journalists said on Grillo’s Substack site CrashOut Media.

“… As with any cartel source, we are taking the account with caution. But the description of the capture sounds more realistic than a version that U.S. federal agents, also anonymously, had told reporters on Thursday,” Cedillo and Grillo wrote. The agents had claimed that Zambada was tricked into boarding the plane, believing he was going to inspect a clandestine airfield in Mexico.

“It seems highly unlikely that Mayo would need to inspect such a site and would do it without his own security,” the journalists wrote, adding that the testimony of the imprisoned ex-security operative “fits in with” Perez’s allegation.

“Journalists have alternatively speculated that Mayo made a deal and handed himself into U.S. authorities. … In the smoke and mirrors of the Mexican cartel war, we have to be open to all possibilities. But the evidence now points more strongly to a kidnapping,” Cedillo and Grillo wrote.

The ‘El Mayo was deceived’ narrative 

Citing two current and two former U.S. officials “familiar with the situation,” Reuters reported that Guzmán López “duped” Zambada into getting on to the plane.

Ismael El Mayo Zambada and Joaquin Guzmán López
After El Mayo’s unexpected arrest, there have been contradictory reports on whether he was kidnapped by Guzmán López (right), tricked, or turned himself in. (Archive)

“Guzman Lopez had convinced Zambada to board the plane by telling him that they were flying to see real estate in northern Mexico,” the news agency said.

Again citing its sources, Reuters said that “Zambada’s arrest followed lengthy surrender talks between U.S. authorities and El Chapo’s son, Joaquin Guzman Lopez.”

Citing U.S. and Mexican officials, The Wall Street Journal reported that Guzmán López “tricked” Zambada into flying to the United States.

“Zambada thought he was going to inspect clandestine airfields in Mexico, but
was instead flown to El Paso, Texas,” WSJ said, citing an unnamed Homeland Security Investigations official.

The New York Times quoted U.S. officials as saying that Guzmán López “betrayed” Zambada.

“El Chapo’s son, Joaquín Guzmán López, tricked Mr. Zambada García into boarding the plane, the U.S. officials said, telling him they were going to look at real estate in northern Mexico. The older man had no idea that he was actually en route to Texas, where he would be delivered into the hands of American agents who had long been on his tail,” the Times reported.

Guzmán López and his brothers lead the Chapitos faction of the Sinaloa Cartel, which has clashed with a faction led by Zambada.

The surrender scenario 

As journalists Cedillo and Grillo noted, there has also been reporting that Zambada — who is reportedly ill — may have reached an agreement with U.S. authorities and decided to hand himself in.

El Mayo Zambada, older and thinner than in other photos, in a car wearing a blue shirt.
Some reports indicated that El Mayo might have made a deal with the U.S. government and/or turned himself in. (X)

Luis Chaparro, a journalist with extensive experience reporting on Mexican cartels, said that El Mayo reached a deal with U.S. authorities and consequently surrendered.

“Before one DEA and one FBI agent opened the stairwell of the plane, El Mayo had one last request: he didn’t want to go looking weak,” Chaparro wrote on his Substack site Saga.

“He asked everyone there not to say he turned himself in, but rather that he was either captured, kidnapped or tricked. The agents agreed and helped him and Joaquín down,” wrote Chaparro, who said his reporting was based on information provided by U.S. sources including government officials.

United States tells Mexico it didn’t organize the flight to the US

Last Friday, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador called for transparency from the U.S. government, saying that it “has to provide a complete report” on the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López.

Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez said Monday that the Mexican government asked the U.S. Department of Justice to provide an official report on “conduct in Mexican territory as well as [the] flight plan and the circumstances” surrounding the events of last Thursday.

Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez with photos of El Mayo and López Guzmán in the background
Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez asked the U.S. government to provide an official report on what it knew about the arrest. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

She told López Obrador’s morning press conference that the U.S. government responded to the request on Saturday via its embassy in Mexico City.

Rodríguez said that the U.S. government report had various points. Elaborating on those points, she said that the U.S. government told Mexico that:

  1. It was informed on several occasions that Joaquín Guzmán López was considering handing himself in to U.S. authorities, but no deal had been reached.
  2. It was informed last Thursday morning that Guzmán López was considering taking a flight to the U.S. later the same day to hand himself in.
  3. It was informed last Thursday afternoon that Guzmán López was flying to the United States to surrender.
  4. It was informed while the plane was in the air that Zambada might also be on the flight, but “had no independent confirmation” that was the case.
  5. No U.S. government agency “planned” the flight.
  6. It arrested two passengers when they disembarked the plane.

Rodríguez said that the U.S. notified the Mexican government of the arrests after confirming that the two passengers were Zambada and Guzmán López.

“Personnel from the United States Embassy in Mexico City immediately communicated with authorities of the government of Mexico and sent photos of the suspects to the members of the Security Cabinet,” she said.

Citing a U.S. official, Reuters reported that “the U.S. Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) and the Homeland Security Investigations (HSI), the two agencies who carried out the operation, scrambled agents from their local El Paso offices and barely reached the airport by the time the private plane was landing.”

Officials in HSI and FBI jackets stand on an airport tarmac
Reuters reported that the U.S. Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) and Homeland Security Investigations (HSI) barely reached the airport in time to receive the unexpected arrivals. (U.S. HSI)

Rodríguez said that the Federal Attorney General’s Office is conducting its own investigation into the events that preceded the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López in the United States.

The security minister said she wasn’t aware why Guzmán López decided to hand himself in.

His father, found guilty on drug trafficking charges in 2019, and his brother Ovidio, extradited to the United States last September, are both in prison in the U.S.

The Milenio newspaper, which said it spoke with U.S. security sources, reported that the extradition of Ovidio to the United States led to Guzmán López to negotiate a surrender deal with the FBI.

Milenio said that the U.S. also offered agreements to two other sons of El Chapo, Iván and Jesús, but Joaquín was the only one who showed interest.

Citing its U.S. sources, the newspaper said that Joaquín Guzmán López became an FBI source.

Joaquín López Guzmán gets off a plane, surrounded by officials in jackets reading "HSI."
Joaquín Guzmán López arrives in Chicago in U.S. custody after turning himself in near El Paso. (Obtained by NBC)

“The delivery of Ismael Zambada García as a bargaining chip [to obtain] penitentiary benefits wasn’t on the table until the final moments prior to the surrender of Joaquín,” Milenio said.

AMLO refuses to rule out possibility that the US facilitated the arrests from Mexico

Asked whether U.S. agencies worked in Mexico on the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López, López Obrador responded:

“I can’t rule that out. We have to wait, we have to wait and see what they tell us. … And [official] information is the best thing so as not to fall into conjecture and speculation.”

López Obrador said he was confident that the U.S. government would provide “all the information” it has to Mexico.

He reiterated that possible U.S. involvement in the arrests from Mexico could not be ruled out, but stressed that “there is no proof” of that.

President López Obrador stands at a podium
President López Obrador did not discard the idea of U.S. involvement in the planning of Zambada’s arrest. (lopezobrador.org.mx)

“What we can say is that the government of Mexico didn’t participate,” López Obrador said.

He referred to Perez’s claim that his client was kidnapped by Guzmán López, saying that clarification is required about the supposed military uniforms worn by the men who allegedly “ambushed” Zambada.

“A military uniform from Mexico, from the United States?” asked López Obrador, who said it was “confirmed” that Mexican security forces were not in any way involved in the arrests of Zambada and Guzmán López.

The president also said “that there is nothing that indicates that there could be [cartel] confrontations” related to the arrests of the two men.

Security experts have warned that violence between factions of the Sinaloa Cartel could increase as a result of the events last Thursday.

In recent days, the federal government has deployed 400 additional troops to Culiacán, the capital of Sinaloa and a stronghold and operational base of the Sinaloa Cartel.

With reports from The Los Angeles Times, El Universal, Reforma, El Financiero, AP, Milenio and Reuters   

Rain, hail and high temperatures in the forecast across Mexico

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A person walks holding an umbrella in the rain
So far, July has registered 26.6 mm more rainfall than the average. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

More rain is on its way through Mexico this week.

According to the National Meteorological Service (SMN), the seasonal Mexican monsoon in combination with tropical wave 14, a low-pressure trough in northern Mexico and cyclonic activity on the Pacific Coast and in the Atlantic basin, will increase rainfall in many parts of the country.

July has been rainier than usual. From July 1 through  July 25, Mexico registered 130 mm of total rainfall across the country, 26.6 mm more rainfall than the average for July. 

Find the rain forecast for Monday below:

Rain forecasts by state 

Intense rainfall (75 to 150 mm) is expected in Chiapas, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Puebla, Tabasco and Veracruz.

Very heavy rainfall (50 to 75 mm) is forecast in Chihuahua, Colima, México state, Jalisco, Michoacán, Morelos, Nayarit and Sonora. 

Heavy rainfall (25 to 50 mm) may hit Mexico City, Durango, Guanajuato, Hidalgo, Querétaro, San Luis Potosí, Sinaloa and Tlaxcala.

Showers (5 to 25 mm) are expected in Aguascalientes, Campeche, Coahuila, Nuevo León, Quintana Roo, Tamaulipas, Yucatán and Zacatecas. 

Isolated rains (0.1 to 5 mm) are forecast in Baja California and Baja California Sur.  

Strong winds and potential whirlwinds are also expected across most of Mexico. 

The SMN has warned residents in these states that winds could cause trees and billboards to fall.

Rainfall will continue throughout the week, with more rain expected over the weekend due to a new tropical wave.

The seasonal Mexican monsoon will combine with tropical wave 14, a low-pressure trough and cyclonic activity on the coasts.
This week, the seasonal Mexican monsoon will combine with tropical wave 14, a low-pressure trough and cyclonic activity on the coasts. (Conagua)

Hot weather to continue

Here are the maximum temperatures forecast for Monday: 

40 to 45 degrees Celsius: Baja California and Sonora. 

35 to 40 degrees Celsius: Baja California Sur, Campeche, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, Nuevo Leon, Quintana Roo, Sinaloa, Tabasco, Tamaulipas and Yucatán.

30 to 35 degrees Celsius: Chiapas, Colima, Guerrero, Jalisco, Michoacan, Morelos, Nayarit, Oaxaca, San Luis Potosi and Veracruz.

In contrast, the highlands of Durango, México state, Hidalgo, Puebla and Tlaxcala will see minimum temperatures of 0 to 5 degrees Celsius. 

Is it rainier than usual in Mexico this year?

Overall, Mexico is having a very rainy summer. Between Jan. 1 and July 25, Mexico recorded rainfall of 338.3 mm — that is, 18.7 mm more than usual.  

Since the rainy season officially began on June 19, Mexico has seen Hurricane Alberto in northern Mexico, Hurricane Chris in the south and Hurricane Beryl in the Yucatán Peninsula.

These storms in combination with tropical waves and low-pressure systems have reduced drought conditions across the country. As of July 15, the area of the country affected by drought was down to 51.2% from 73.9% — since before the rainy season began.  

As per the weather agency Meteored, the states that have benefited the most from the rainfall include Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, Veracruz, Hidalgo, Campeche, Yucatán and Quintana Roo. 

Meanwhile, Baja California, Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Sinaloa, Durango, Nayarit, Jalisco, Michoacán, Guerrero, Oaxaca, southern Veracruz, Tabasco and northern Chiapas have seen less rain this year.

The rest of the country has seen moderate rainfall. 

With reports from Meteored

6 rescued from fishing charter lost at sea in Quintana Roo

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Six members of a fishing charter arrive at a dock in Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo after being rescued.
The people aboard the fishing charter made it back to dry land by Saturday evening, after spending more than a day adrift at sea. (Mara Lezama/X)

Six people adrift in a fishing boat off the coast of Quintana Roo were located and rescued Saturday afternoon after a 24-hour search involving the Navy, state officials and private citizens.

On Sunday morning, Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama thanked the Naval Ministry, the Quintana Roo Civil Protection agency (Coeproc) and state security officials for their tireless efforts to rescue the lost fishing charter.

A small private plane was the first to spot the fishing boat.

Five residents of the state of Tabasco hired a boat out of Isla Mujeres on Friday to go to Arrowsmith Bank, a popular sport fishing spot about 41 km due east of Cancún.

The group of friends boarded the 28-foot “Jigging” at 5 a.m. They lost communication a few hours later and family members notified the captain of the port. After efforts to contact the ship failed, the families reported the missing boat to federal and state authorities.

The concerned relatives also utilized social media to alert the public about the missing adventurers and the response was immediate. Fishermen scouted the area around Arrowsmith Bank to no avail on Friday.

By Saturday morning, a full-scale search-and-rescue operation was underway with the Navy taking point, assisted by the Coeproc. Private individuals continued to participate and, in fact, it was a private plane that located the stray ship. A video of the ship’s sighting was available on social media within minutes.

The fishing buddies pose with family and Navy officials on land after their rescue.
The friends pose with family and Navy officials after their rescue. (Mara Lezama/X)

First on the scene was a fishing boat, which transmitted the coordinates to the Navy. Marines hauled the six castaways aboard a Navy ship, where they received medical treatment. All were determined to be in good health except for mild dehydration, and were transported back to dry land where they were reunited with their families.

The captain explained that the boat had suffered engine trouble a few hours after setting off, leaving them dead in the water.

With reports from El Heraldo de Tabasco, El Universal and La Jornada Maya

This women’s team won Mexico’s first medal at the Paris Olympics

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Mexico's women's archery team at the Paris Olympics
The women's archery team will bring a bronze medal back to Mexico from the Paris Olympics. (Conade)

Mexico earned its first medal of the 2024 Paris Olympics when the women’s archery team — Alejandra Valencia, Ana Paula Vázquez and Ángela Ruiz — won a bronze on Sunday at the Summer Games.

In the shadow of the historical 17th-century Hôtel des Invalides, the archers each hit the bull’s eye with their final arrows to defeat the Netherlands in the Women’s Archery Team event.

Mexican archer Ángela Ruiz
Mexican Olympic archer Ángela Ruiz turned 18 years old on Sunday. (Conade/X)

The triumph was extra special for Ruiz — Sunday was her 18th birthday.

The Olympic medal was the first-ever for the women’s team and the fourth for Mexican archers. Valencia and Luis Álvarez won a bronze in Mixed Team Archery at the 2020 Tokyo Games, while Aída Román won silver and Mariana Avitia won bronze in the Women’s Individual Archery event at the 2012 London Games.

The Mexican archers earned their spot in Sunday morning’s quarterfinals by finishing third in the qualifying round. After a slow start, the trio dispatched reigning world champion Germany 5-1 to advance to the semifinals, with Vázquez hitting the bullseye with both arrows in the third and decisive set.

Competing against a strong team from China in the afternoon, Mexico struggled with the wind but took the Chinese to a fourth set before succumbing 5-3. Ruiz, a promising youngster who rose to No. 22 in the World Rankings heading into the Paris Games, was inconsistent early, but two of her last three arrows hit the bull’s eye.

Mexico's women's archery team at the Paris Olympics
The team beat the Netherlands 6-2 to win bronze on Sunday. (Conade/X)

In the bronze-medal match, the trio was on target, scoring 57 (out of 60) in the first and fourth sets — including four straight bull’s eyes to close out the contest — defeating the Netherlands 6-2. 

Valencia — a four-time Olympian — spoke to PanAm Sports Channel afterward: “We are happy. We fought well and we dedicate this victory to our families, to the people who came here to support us, and to all of Mexico… but particularly to Ángela [Ruiz], since today is her birthday.”

The bronze medal is the 74th Olympic medal for Mexico, which is participating in its 23rd Olympic Games. Mexico has won 13 gold medals, 24 silver medals and 37 bronze medals in its history of participation in the global event.

Mexico hopes to extend its medal count in Paris, with strong possibilities in the diving and taekwondo events. Mexico has 15 Olympic diving medals, the most in any single event.

With reports from El Universal, Proceso, Marca and PanAm Sports Channel

Mexican surfer Alan Cleland shines in his first Olympics

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Mexican surfer Alan Cleland
Cleland will compete in round three of the men's Olympic surfing competition on Monday. (CONADE)

Alan Cleland Quiñonez, the first Mexican surfer to qualify for the Olympics, is one of eight men to advance to round three of the surfing competitions at the 2024 Paris Olympic Games.

The venue is Teahupo’o in Tahiti, French Polynesia, home to some of the most dangerous waves in the world, with “death-defying” heights up to 50 feet, according to The New York Times.

 

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The Mexican surfer advanced to round three after defeating Spanish surfer Andy Criere in round two on Sunday. Cleland will compete in round three on Monday at 12:48 p.m. Mexico City time, up against French surfer Joan Duru.

Who is Alan Cleland?

Alan Cleland, 22, was born to an Irish father and a Mexican mother in Boca de Pascuales, a remote fisherman’s village in Colima, on the Pacific Coast. His father, a free surfer, pushed Cleland into the sport when he was two years old. 

Cleland has said that he does not remember his first time in the water, but that he remembers surfing frequently with his father after he turned four. By age six, Cleland was surfing by himself or with friends. 

According to Cleland, people living in Boca de Pascuales were either surfers or fishermen. Thanks to that environment, he is now an Olympic athlete. 

“For me, representing Mexico is just representing where I’m from,” he told Olympics.com. “I wouldn’t be the same person […] if it wasn’t for the place, the wave, my family and everything in general about where I grew up.”

Cleland secured his Olympic spot in June 2023, after winning the World Surf League Championship Tour in El Salvador. He rode three of the top 10 highest-scoring waves of the competition and won the championship with the highest score among men and women, with 9.73 points. 

With that victory, Cleland became the second Mexican man to win the World Surfing Games, after Oaxacan Jhony Corzo in 2017. 

In an interview with the news magazine Proceso, Cleland said that “by participating [in the] Paris [games], I want more people to see surfing for the beautiful [sport] that it is, to take it seriously […] and to understand that it is not for hippies. It is a high-performance sport.”

Today, Cleland is the only Mexican in the surfing competition at the Olympics. 

When did surfing become an Olympic sport? 

Surfing became an Olympic sport at the 2020 Tokyo Games in 2021, with events held at Tsurigasaki Beach in Japan. 

It is the only Olympic sport that depends entirely on the weather. During the Olympic competitions, forecasters assess the likely surf conditions throughout each day to determine the most suitable time for competition. 

You can watch Cleland compete from Mexico by tuning into Claro Sports on YouTube.

With reports from Milenio and The New York Times

Boy killed by stray bullet on Cancún beach

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The boy and his family were on a beach behind Hotel Riu in the hotel zone of Cancún.
The boy and his family were on a beach behind Hotel Riu in the hotel zone of Cancún. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

A 12-year-old boy was fatally wounded on a beach in Cancún on Sunday by aggressors who intended to shoot at rival drug dealers, authorities said.

The attack occurred on a beach behind Hotel Riu in the hotel zone of the Caribbean coast resort city. The boy, identified as Santiago T.M. in media reports, was shot in the stomach or chest and subsequently died in hospital.

The area where a stray bullet killed a boy in Cancún on Sunday
A stray bullet fired on a beach in Cancún on Sunday killed a 12-year-old boy. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

The Quintana Roo Attorney General’s Office (FGE) said in a statement that “first investigations” indicated that the attackers reached the beach from the water on board a jet ski. The perpetrators also reportedly fled the scene on the jet ski.

The FGE said that the aggressors shot at “people presumably in a dispute over drug sales, but injured, without being their target, the minor who was with his family.”

“The authorities arrived immediately and transported the minor to hospital where he unfortunately lost his life,” it added.

The FGE said that “the members of the affected family are of Mexican nationality” and live in the municipality of Benito Juárez, where Cancún is located.

“The State Attorney General’s Office, in collaboration with the members of the Organization for the Construction of Peace and Security in Quintana Roo, is working to bring to justice the person or persons responsible for this crime,” the FGE said.

Disputes between gangs over drug dealing and other criminal activities have intensified in Quintana Roo in recent months, the newspaper Reforma reported.

In April, four men were killed in a shootout at the Hotel Fiesta Americana Condesa in Cancún, while two alleged drug dealers were gunned down near Costa Mujeres Beach north of Cancún in December.

With reports from La Jornada and Reforma 

Rum ‘n’ Raisins, the spirit of Mexico

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Mexican rum cake
The best part of Mexican rum is the cakes you can bake with it (and the cocktails you can shake up). Try this rum 'n' raisin delight for yourself.

The story of Mexican rum cake might be best understood by beginning north of the border. Was American independence fought over tea or over rum? Why would the Colonists throw crates of tea overboard in protest at The Boston Tea Party, when Americans were basically coffee drinkers? That “party” was the culmination of their anger over the British tax on molasses, which threatened their very existence and their most precious commodity: rum. By 1770, 6.5 million gallons of West Indian molasses was purchased by the Colonists, who turned it into five million gallons of rum per year. 80% of the Colonies’ exports were rum. Was the tax devastating? Would they start a war over it? Yes!

Meanwhile, back in Mexico, where they had been making rum for over 200 years, the delicious liquor was banned by Spanish king, Felipe V, around 1700, because it competed with Spain’s brandies. It was a very long time before rum came back to Mexico, but now it’s better than ever!

Mexican agricole rum.
If you consider rum as something to eat, rather than drink, it will open up a whole new world of possibilities. (Anna Bruce)

History says that raisins were discovered by accident when they dried on the vine as early as 1490 BC. The Ancient Romans and the Greeks loved raisins. They ate them, offered them to their gods, and even traded them for slaves.  

Hundreds of years later at the end of the 15th century, Queen Isabella of Spain sent missionaries to Mexico to educate the natives in the ways of Christianity. But the missionaries also passed on the people their knowledge of grapesFollowing the Spanish conquest of 1521, seeds and cuttings of the Listán Prieto grape were introduced by Hernán Cortés, conquistador, and de facto ruler of New Spain, where they flourished. He ordered Spanish settlers to plant vineyards. 

Mexicans caught onto dried fruit like grapes, apricots, apples and pears, fast. The Spanish and missionaries produced it in abundance, and eventually a region in Baja (now California) overtook the Valencia region of eastern Spain in raisin production.

Today Mexican raisins (called “pasas”) are two to three times larger than the ones north of the border and are sweeter too (and are mostly available at local markets). They have been used in traditional Mexican recipes since the 16th century, so why not up the ante and combine some Mexican raisins with a little Mexican rum and make a luscious tiramisu. While we’re at it, let’s not forget that classic, iconic rum cake made famous by Bacardi, who opened their first rum distillery in Mexico in 1931.

For the moment, let’s think of rum as edible, rather than drinkable. Can there be anything more decadent than a rich rum cake or an elegant tiramisu?

Mexican Rum Cake (Pastel de ron mexicano):

Recipe adapted from whiskaffair.com. (whiskaffair)

For The Cake

  • 1 cup (250 g) chopped walnuts (la nuez)
  • ¾ cup (170 g) unsalted butter* (mantequilla) *softened at room temperature
  • 1 and ½ cup (300 g) granulated sugar (azúcar estándar)
  • 4 large eggs (huevos)
  • ½ cup (120 mililiters) milk (leche)
  • ¾ cup (180 mililiters) Mexican dark rum* (ron oscuro) *Gustoso Aguardiente; Deadhead Cask Aged Rum; Espiritus Pixan; Pa’Lante
  • 2 teaspoons (10 g) vanilla extract (extracto de vainilla)
  • 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour* There is NO substitute for American all-purpose flour in Mexico. But you can buy it easily at amazon.com.mx.
  • ¼ cup (32 g) cornstarch (maicena)
  • 3 teaspoons (14.4g) baking powder (polvo de hornear)

Rum Syrup

  • ½ cup (115 g) unsalted butter (mantequilla sin sal)
  • ½ cup (100 g) white sugar (azúcar estándar)
  • ¼ cup (60 mili liters) Mexican dark rum (ron oscuro)
  • ¼ cup water (60 mililiters) (agua)

Instructions 

  • Preheat the oven to 350 Degrees F (180 Degrees C).
  • Grease a 10-inch bundt pan with any neutral oil. Make sure to grease all the crevices in the pan.

TIP: After greasing the pan, coat it with a layer of *breadcrumbs* NOT FLOUR! Flour leads to a splotchy surface & clumps of uncooked flour in the cake. Breadcrumbs create a stronger barrier for easier release and a better-tasting cake.

  • Make sure ALL ingredients are at room temperature.

Make The Cake

  • Sprinkle walnuts in the base of the pan.
  • Whisk butter and sugar until light and fluffy, with a stand- or handheld-mixer, medium speed, for 5-6 minutes. Scrape the sides of the bowl while whisking. 
  • Add eggs, one at a time; mix well after each addition.
  • Add milk, Mexican dark rum, and vanilla extract. Mix well.
  • Add all-purpose flour, cornstarch, and baking powder and mix until combined. Do not overmix. Mix until everything comes together and stop.
  • Pour the batter in the pan and spread evenly.
  • Place in the middle rack of the oven and bake for 40-50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Remove the pan from the oven.

Make The Soaking Syrup

  • Heat butter, sugar, Mexican dark rum, and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat until syrupy (3-4 minutes).

Soak The Cake

  • Pour the hot syrup over the warm cake very slowly. Let the syrup soak in for 5 minutes. Transfer the cake to a cooling rack and cool completely.
  • Cut into slices and serve with whipped cream, if desired.

How about sipping a Dark n’ Stormy to go along?

Recipe adapted from cocktail society. (cocktail-society.com)

Ingredients:

* 2 ounces Mexican dark rum

* 1/2-ounce lime juice, freshly squeezed

* Ginger beer (cerveza de jengibre) 

* Fresh lime

Steps:

  1. Add rum and lime juice to a glass filled with ice
  2. Top with ginger beer
  3. Garnish with fresh lime… Imbibe!

Or, how about a Rum N’ Raisin (Mexican) Tiramisu?

Recipe adapted from taste.com.au. (The Salty Cooker)

Ingredients:

  • 3/4 cup (125g) raisins (pasas, available in local markets)
  • 1 cup (250ml) dark rum* (ron oscuro) *Gustoso Aguardiente; Deadhead Cask Aged Rum; Espiritus Pixan; Pa’Lante
  • 6 egg yolks (yemas de huevo)
  • 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar (azúcar estándar) *To make caster sugar, pulse granulated sugar in a food processor until fine, but not powder.
    • 500g (2 1/3 c) mascarpone
    • 1 tsp (5 g) vanilla extract
  • Juice of 2 oranges (naranjas)
  • 16 sponge finger biscuits (Savoiardi, Italian, and available in Mexican supermarkets)
  • Dark chocolate curls, to serve *Easily make chocolate curls by shaving the edge of a good-quality chocolate bar with a vegetable peeler. Put in refrigerator until ready to use.
  • Cocoa Powder (polvo de cacao), to serve.

Directions:

* Place raisins and 2 Tbs. rum in a bowl and microwave for 1 minute. Cool.

* Beat yolks and sugar, with a mixer on low speed, until pale and thick.

* Gradually add mascarpone, vanilla, 1/4 cup (60ml) orange juice and 1/2 cup (125ml) rum.

* Place remaining orange juice and 1/3 cup (80ml) rum in a shallow dish. 

* Dip half the biscuits in the rum mixture and divide among four 1-cup (250ml) serving glasses. Top with half the raisin mixture, then half the mascarpone mixture. Repeat, finishing with a layer of the mascarpone mixture. 

* Chill for at least 2 hours for flavors to infuse.

* Top with chocolate curls and dust with cocoa and serve.

If you enjoy this delicious Mexican rum cake (and the cocktails!) why not let us know in the comments?

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter on Facebook and X (Twitter), and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” (available at Amazon). She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals.

 

Going big for the 20th SMA Writers Conference and Literary Festival

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SMA Writerss Conference and Literary Festival
With the 20th anniversary of the San Miguel de Allende Writer’s Conference and Literary Festival around the corner, what can we expect in celebration? (Bonnie Lendrum)

As Mexican writer Anita Brenner once said, “Once the dust of Mexico settles on your heart, you will have no rest in any other land.”  These words deeply touched the heart of Susan Page, founder of the San Miguel Writers Conference & Literary Festival. This beautiful quote sums up how she feels about her adopted country. 

I smiled when she told me this, and I must confess, it has also touched my heart. Isn’t it amazing how words can do that? Words and sentiments like this are among the main reasons Susan founded the conference, which has grown rapidly from just 26 people at their first conference to over 3,000 attendees last year. 

The festival has grown exponentially in recent years, thanks to world-class speakers and and a dedicated following. (Bel Woodhouse)

Celebrating its 20th Anniversary next year, the Conference is scheduled for February 25 and has a big line-up, with the announcement of the keynote speaker just days away. All Susan would tell me is that he is “a literary legend in his own time.” It seems like I’ll have to wait for the announcements on August 1st, just like everyone else, no matter how much I pleaded for a sneak peek.

Not just for writers

It’s easy to see why it’s among the biggest cultural events in San Miguel de Allende each year. As well as attracting thousands of attendees, the conference brings in millions of dollars in tourism revenue. And the best part is, it’s not only for writers. There is something for everyone: authors (aspiring or otherwise) and avid readers alike. It’s an all-inclusive literary and cultural gathering where everyone is welcome.

“We’re a unique cultural festival,” Susan explained. “This event is tri-cultural with U.S., Canadian and Mexican authors taking part, and bilingual in English and Spanish. It’s designed for readers as much as it is for writers.”

There’s no problem understanding each other either “The ballroom events are simultaneously translated via headsets. This year we’re introducing roving interpreters,” Susan says. For both English and Spanish speakers the lines of communication are well and truly open.

A jam-packed 5 days of fun

I’ll admit, I’m tempted to get on a plane. Susan told me to expect “five full days. Forty-nine workshops. Eight keynote speakers. Plus receptions, dinners, and storytelling. We also provide excursions for people who want to explore the area. It’s a great way to discover Mexico if you’ve not been here before.” What’s not to love?

Literature, food and cocktails abound at the conference, with attendees drinking in the party spirit. (Bel Woodhouse)

The best part is the Mexican fiesta halfway through. Susan explains it as “a major Mexican fiesta, with Mariachis and a wide variety of festivities. Folklorico dancers, an Aztec ceremony with huge feathered headdresses. Plus giant puppets and lots of food.” For a foodie like me, this sounds like heaven. 

As a big fan of traditional Mexican food, I had to ask what was on the menu. Smiling Susan said, “We try to recreate a jardin on a Saturday night with traditional foods. Plus, there’s a margarita station.” I’m sold.

Do you have to be a writer? 

No. Susan founded this to include everyone of all skill levels. There’s something for novices and hobbyists, through to published authors. “Workshops are very inclusive,” she adds. “The four main categories are fiction, nonfiction, poetry, and memoirs. It’s a cross-genre of all styles of writing.”

It’s about support, inspiration and learning from the best. To give you an idea of what’s in store. Previous keynote speakers have included celebrities, famous writers and poets. Last year saw former Hollywood star turned author Molly Ringwald. The Conference has also hosted big names like Margaret Atwood and U.S. feminist icon Gloria Steinem. Novelist Wally Lamb, Pulitzer Prize winner Barbara Kingsolver, and one of my personal favorites Isabel Allende have all graced the lectern here. The list goes on and on. 

Molly Ringwald
Actress and author Molly Ringwald at the 2024 edition. (Alistair Palmer)

Susan told me there are screenplay writing and storytelling workshops. Hollywood comedy favorites such as Tom Hanks have also been keynote speakers in the past. Having Tom Hanks tell me a story is something I would sign up for! 

The story behind this phenomenal event

“When I arrived in San Miguel in 2003 there was nothing going for writers. San Miguel has a rich literary history and so I put an ad in the paper.” Susan said.

“We started monthly authors readings, where writers gathered to showcase their works. Then we started a bookstore where we sell our books, which is hugely popular. Then we started the Literary Appreciation Program for children in rural communities.”

All of these were successes. So, a year later they started the San Miguel Writer’s Conference and Literary Festival.

What are your visions for the future? 

“We want to continue this tri-cultural conference,” Susan said. “An equal blend of Canadians, Americans, and Mexicans. Attendees are always surprised and delighted. To learn about the literary styles and authors from other countries. It’s very unique.” 

To get in touch, like me, you’ll have to wait until August 1st. Susan laughed at my groan and said “We reveal the names of the keynote speakers on the first. And open registration for the February 12-16 2025 Conference.” 

Before parting she offered a helpful tip. The popular workshops sell out fast so it’s suggested you register early. There’s an early “bard” special. If you register before August 31st you won’t miss any of the amazing keynote speakers. There’s quite a lineup for the 20th Anniversary of the SMA Writer’s Conference and Literary Festival.

Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.

The gourmet chocolate store offering healing ice baths in Puerto Vallarta

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Raices Chocolateria Puerto Vallarta
Name a more iconic combination than ice baths and chocolate. If you can, it's because you haven't tried the experience on offer at Puerto Vallarta's Raices Chocolateria. (Raices Chocolateria)

I didn’t know what to expect from my first ice bath experience. I’ve always thrived in the heat. The decision to move to Puerto Vallarta came one frigid February morning in New York City when it had snowed for the fourth time that season. I was done with the cold. I won’t even go in a swimming pool if the water is below 26 degrees. So when I told my husband I would try an ice bath wellness experience in Raices Chocolateria, Puerto Vallarta, he just looked at me and laughed.

If there’s one thing I hate more than the cold, it’s being told I can’t handle a challenge.

Raices Chocolateria in Puerto Vallarta is home to not only an ice bath experience, but also (as the name suggests) an ethical chocolate store. (Raices Chocolateria)

So off I went one Sunday to Raices Chocolateria, a local artisanal chocolate shop with a side business of ice baths. Run by husband-and-wife duo Laura and Eduardo out of their former home-turned-chocolate shop, the ice bath experience has become a buzzy Sunday activity for locals and expats in Puerto Vallarta. 

Taking the Plunge

It’s hard to describe the feeling of your body being swallowed by near-freezing water. Your brain goes haywire in the first 20 seconds as the shock hits your nervous system. Your mind scrambles as your body tries to decipher if it’s in danger. Your eyes go wide; your lungs gasp for air; in those first 20 seconds, your brain is literally thinking it’s fighting for your life. My thoughts were jolting like bolts of lighting between “Get out of here” to “You chose this. Just hold on.”

And then the chaos stops. The scramble clears, and there’s a break in the bedlam. You come back to your breath. It softens. I could smell the burning copal, hear the soft music, and feel the warm breeze on my face. Eyes closed, I focused on Laura’s voice guiding me through breathwork, telling me that I was okay. After what felt like two excruciatingly long minutes, Laura told me I had finished the full five-minute session. It was over. I did it, and I felt more alive than ever.

The combination of ice, warm air and scented copal smoke all contribute to a magical experience. (Raices Chocolateria)

After you come out of the ice bath, Laura takes you to a sunny patch in the tropical backyard, where you start to slowly move your limbs, clearing the energy around you and letting your body adjust back to normal. An overwhelming sense of euphoria comes over you. Your brain works in a heightened state of calm, yet your mind is on fire. I have never felt anything like that. It’s high-speed meditation, yoga, and therapy all in one system-shocking five minutes.

“What was that?” I kept asking over and over.

“As ice baths have become more popular, they are finding more and more benefits to deliberate cold exposure,” said Laura. She said some of the top health benefits are increased circulation throughout the body, clarity and focus in mental health, energy boosts, activation of the brown fat organ in the body, which helps sugar levels and metabolism, a decrease in inflammation, and an increase in oxygen in the body.

Research on the mental benefits of ice baths is still in its infancy. However, small studies have shown that five-minute dips in cold water boosted feelings of alertness and attentiveness and decreased perceived anxiety.

It’s these benefits and that feeling that Laura and Eduardo want to share with their community in Puerto Vallarta.

The Roots of Raices

Of course, as is common in travel, love, and wellness, nothing happened on purpose. Laura moved to Mexico to teach. She met Eduardo at a restaurant, and the two fell in love. Their path to opening a chocolateria started by simply experimenting with making chocolates between them. 

“We started making chocolate for ourselves at home, playing around with this seed in its many forms,” said Laura. “As we kept exploring and learning more, we decided that we wanted to share our knowledge, love, and passion for cacao and all its properties with others.”

The Raices experience was first born from a love of chocolate and the cacao bean. (Raices Chocolateria)

They opened Raices Chocolateria out of their home, creating bars of chocolate, truffles, and cacao based beverages based on Indigenous recipes. It was after that they opened their backyard to the ice bath experience, bringing guests in to plunge in two metal tubs set up amid lush plants and burning incense. 

“I had no idea how medicinal, diverse, and transformative cacao truly is,” she said. “The ice bath experience was definitely a surprise aspect to Raices Chocolateria, as it is not our main focus and never was in our original thoughts. But we are so grateful that it has become a part of our lives here and that the benefits of cacao and ice complement each other so well.”

Safety first

As with anything body related, it is essential to talk with your medical professional before you try something new. “As wonderful as the benefits of ice baths are for some people, there are certain people who are not recommended for deliberate cold exposure,” she said. “If you know your body has negative effects when you are exposed to extreme cold, it’s not a good idea to start with something so extreme.”

She suggests that people with heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes, pacemakers, a history of frostbite, open wounds, epilepsy, or pregnancy avoid cold exposure. Laura and Eduardo will have each guest fill out a form where these points and more are discussed. They will also remove you from the bath if they see your body reacting negatively to the cold. Your health and safety come first.

Raices Chocolateria Puerto Vallarta ice bath
Always consult a medical professional before trying an ice bath for the first time – but rest assured that when you do, you will find the experience invigorating. (Raices Chocolateria)

Whether or not ice baths will become part of my wellness regimen remains to be seen. I would be lying if I told you my experience was not transformative. It wholeheartedly was. In all my years of consistent exercise and yoga, I don’t think I’ve ever been as mentally clear or slept as well as I did on the day of my ice bath experience. 

Still, at the end of the day, my husband wasn’t too far off to think that I wouldn’t love sitting on ice. It may be a minute before I can psych myself up again for that.

The details: Raices Chocolateria is a cafe open Tuesday through Sunday, serving cacao-based beverages, chocolate bars, and food. Throughout the week, they offer different chocolate classes and workshops, including tastings, chocolate making, and classes for kids. Ice baths are available on Sundays and Wednesdays.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Baja California

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Rosarito-Ensenada highway
Home comforts meet Mexico living in Baja California, where two countries fuse together seamlessly. (Avenavaz/Shutterstock)

Most of the Mexico-U.S. border might feel like an off-limits option in today’s binational immigration and security environment. There are six Mexican states across this line in the sand and there’s not much good news coming from either side of “la frontera.” Yet one state (Baja California, which comprises of the northern half of the Baja California peninsula) should draw your attention, for a lifestyle where straddling U.S. and Mexico living might make for the perfect combination of foreign and familiar.

I get asked “Why do you live in Mexico?” by friends and acquaintances, especially when traveling to the U.S. or overseas. If I want to boil down the Mexico living rationale, I often resort to a refrain that sums up this country’s most salient advantage when comparing Mexico with other overseas living options: “foreign and familiar” — a mixture of cultural, culinary, linguistic, historical, and societal expressions co-existing with Mexico’s acceptance and embrace of many things “American” — peanut butter on your morning toast, pyramids in the afternoon; colonial cities and Costco; el Beis (baseball) and birria. I could go on and on.

Tijuana
Mexico and the United States collide throughout Baja California, with the two cultures existing side by side. (Barbara Zandoval/Unsplash)

It’s a region of Mexico with a high degree of familiarity for West Coasters (a Tijuana day trip is a rite of passage for those growing up in SoCal), albeit a mystery to many others exploring coastal living options in Mexico. It’s a place that has sourced many, many stereotypical portrayals of Mexican identity (sometimes unfairly), while also carving out a bicultural hybrid identity that might someday call into question whether a walled border even matters. The urban complex, San Diego-Tijuana, is already one of the hemisphere’s most energetic landscapes of cooperation and entwined destinies. Being a part of this future might just be your Mexico living sweet spot.

Hands down, Baja California is the only place to live on the coast enjoying a “Mediterranean” climate of warm (but rarely humid) summers and winters with seasonal rains and a very stable mean daily temperature. Like San Diego, there will be overcast mornings and don’t expect tropical greenspaces or forested hills. 

Connectivity and Care also earn high marks, as Baja living gifts its inhabitants with the best of Mexico and the U.S. when it comes to getting back home (using San Diego and Tijuana airports for domestic and international flights) and the best of border medicine with Medicare. Sure, you’ll need to get past layers of highway obstacles and a relatively slow international border crossing reality, but San Diego is pretty much within your grasp. Well, unless you opt for Ensenada a further 144 kilometers (89 miles) away.

I would never discount or degrade the culture of Baja California, coopted by U.S. commercial and popular cultural incursions. But the state has also earned its own independence and identity when it comes to lifestyles, artistic expressions and familial and societal relations in defiance of California’s tidal wave of influences. No, you won’t find iconic Mexican relics of archaeology, Spanish colonial architecture, or jaw-dropping landscape diversity. Here, it’s mostly desert, especially if you’re heading inland away from the Pacific. You’ll need to take a flight (three hours to Mexico City) to get your fix of “real” Mexico.

That said, you’ll find plenty of reasons to explore your local surroundings: Tijuana’s sophisticated dining and multicultural performing arts scene, Mexico’s premiere wine country (just over the hill from Ensenada), beaches and more beaches, and two magnificent bodies of water (the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California).

Tijuana

Tijuana is Mexico for many in SoCal, but others might find it lacking in culture. Despite this, the city has grown into a vibrant and pleasant place to live. (tijuanacity.com)

Starting with Tijuana, there are probably more U.S. passport holders living full and part-time than in any other state. English is widely spoken. With 2.1 million metro-area residents, universities, museums, performing arts (Teatro Las Tablas, Centro Cultural Tijuana, Casa de la Cultura), and some of Mexico’s most innovative seafood, Tijuana defies the stereotypes of its past. 

Tijuana is a manufacturing powerhouse and as a result, offers non-stop flights to China. Some 45,000 K-12 students and 45,000 others head into California for work and school every day. A post-COVID-19 sea of remote workers takes advantage of lower cost of living (although this has led to a rise in rental costs), income-tax savings (heard of the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion?) and a cultural spark that’s just not found in the States. 

But there are security issues. Crime, cartel violence, car-jackings, and the ever-menacing border tension realities loom over the area. More U.S. citizens are homicide victims in Baja California State than in any other state in Mexico. A commute to the States for work is brutal by most accounts (50 million annual border crossings happen here). Remote workers experience less stress. As one social media post highlights, “If you want to make the sacrifice, have an end game; don’t be another hamster on the wheel or you’ll go crazy.”

Rosarito

Rosarito beach
Once a quiet beach town, Rosarito has evolved considerably in recent years. (Tripadvisor)

Rosarito (population 127,000); what can you say about it? What started as a humble beach town with a wooden pier and lifeguard stations (another nod to the SoCal beach experience) has grown into a bedroom community for Tijuana and high rise condo towers for thousands of foreigners. Highway 1 and 1D form arteries that run smack dab through the center of town.  In some ways, living here is more about convenience than culture or even “resort” amenities. It’s a surfer haven for some and a breakfast club or happy hour social scene for others.

Gated residential communities line the coast north and south of the city center. More a “mistake” of development than anything very cohesive, the city never rates in the top ten for Mexican beach resorts with a  “wow factor.” There are some high-rise beachfront hotels, but few visitors come for long vacation stays, meaning the weekend “invasion” is more the cycle. 

But it is Mexico’s lobster capital. Puerto Nuevo in particular has Baja-Med cuisine (making dining here expensive by Mexican standards), micro-breweries and Mexico’s biggest annual beach party, Baja Beach Fest, in August. There is a muted multicultural art scene centered around painting and sculpture, and two English-language theater companies. You’ve got convenience, a daily mean temperature of 70 degrees Farenheit (21 Celcius), and sandy Pacific beaches. Oh, and Rosarito was the source of rocks for the 1970’s Pet Rock craze.  

Ensenada

Ensenada
The rocks of Ensenada provide the setting for a genuinely cool and relaxed beach city, with food, wine and tourism aplenty. (Roman López/Unsplash)

An hour’s drive to the south is Ensenada, described by one travel guide as “hedonistic Tijuana’s cosmopolitan sister.” It’s big enough (population 444,000) to stand on its own when it comes to services and amenities and it’s far enough from the border (104 km) to require some effort to get here. This all makes for a haven from the border calamity up north. And Ensenada’s Mexican and expat societies enjoy shared coastal living experiences that can be harder to find in Mexico’s “fly-in,” more trafficked beach locations. 

Those who make the effort to get here (and live year round) are rewarded with a seaport personality and the arrival of 3 to 4 ships per week, Mexico’s best seafood dining and the premier wine country (just over the hill in Valle de Guadalupe), surprising micro-climates should the cool overcast weather grows tiresome and affordability. There are universities and research institutes, some offering courses in English in marine science, winemaking and other interests. Museo de la Historia, Plaza de la Patria and Ventana al Mar Park are all casual hang-outs for expats. 

You’ll also find a diversity of residential neighborhoods in central Ensenada and many more toward the south of the city. You’ll want a car if you live here, and some reports say beach swimming in central Ensenada is not recommended, due to sewage spills — more prevalent in winter than summer. Sound familiar, SoCal? 

Baja California living straddles the U.S. and Mexico, drawing the best conditions for a “foreign and familiar” lifestyle. It’s SoCal with an accent, a tribute to the challenges and rewards of a binational landscape.

The ratings

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here, including ratings for Yucatán, Oaxaca and Quintana Roo.

Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com.