Tuesday, April 29, 2025

Rum ‘n’ Raisins, the spirit of Mexico

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Mexican rum cake
The best part of Mexican rum is the cakes you can bake with it (and the cocktails you can shake up). Try this rum 'n' raisin delight for yourself.

The story of Mexican rum cake might be best understood by beginning north of the border. Was American independence fought over tea or over rum? Why would the Colonists throw crates of tea overboard in protest at The Boston Tea Party, when Americans were basically coffee drinkers? That “party” was the culmination of their anger over the British tax on molasses, which threatened their very existence and their most precious commodity: rum. By 1770, 6.5 million gallons of West Indian molasses was purchased by the Colonists, who turned it into five million gallons of rum per year. 80% of the Colonies’ exports were rum. Was the tax devastating? Would they start a war over it? Yes!

Meanwhile, back in Mexico, where they had been making rum for over 200 years, the delicious liquor was banned by Spanish king, Felipe V, around 1700, because it competed with Spain’s brandies. It was a very long time before rum came back to Mexico, but now it’s better than ever!

Mexican agricole rum.
If you consider rum as something to eat, rather than drink, it will open up a whole new world of possibilities. (Anna Bruce)

History says that raisins were discovered by accident when they dried on the vine as early as 1490 BC. The Ancient Romans and the Greeks loved raisins. They ate them, offered them to their gods, and even traded them for slaves.  

Hundreds of years later at the end of the 15th century, Queen Isabella of Spain sent missionaries to Mexico to educate the natives in the ways of Christianity. But the missionaries also passed on the people their knowledge of grapesFollowing the Spanish conquest of 1521, seeds and cuttings of the Listán Prieto grape were introduced by Hernán Cortés, conquistador, and de facto ruler of New Spain, where they flourished. He ordered Spanish settlers to plant vineyards. 

Mexicans caught onto dried fruit like grapes, apricots, apples and pears, fast. The Spanish and missionaries produced it in abundance, and eventually a region in Baja (now California) overtook the Valencia region of eastern Spain in raisin production.

Today Mexican raisins (called “pasas”) are two to three times larger than the ones north of the border and are sweeter too (and are mostly available at local markets). They have been used in traditional Mexican recipes since the 16th century, so why not up the ante and combine some Mexican raisins with a little Mexican rum and make a luscious tiramisu. While we’re at it, let’s not forget that classic, iconic rum cake made famous by Bacardi, who opened their first rum distillery in Mexico in 1931.

For the moment, let’s think of rum as edible, rather than drinkable. Can there be anything more decadent than a rich rum cake or an elegant tiramisu?

Mexican Rum Cake (Pastel de ron mexicano):

Recipe adapted from whiskaffair.com. (whiskaffair)

For The Cake

  • 1 cup (250 g) chopped walnuts (la nuez)
  • ¾ cup (170 g) unsalted butter* (mantequilla) *softened at room temperature
  • 1 and ½ cup (300 g) granulated sugar (azúcar estándar)
  • 4 large eggs (huevos)
  • ½ cup (120 mililiters) milk (leche)
  • ¾ cup (180 mililiters) Mexican dark rum* (ron oscuro) *Gustoso Aguardiente; Deadhead Cask Aged Rum; Espiritus Pixan; Pa’Lante
  • 2 teaspoons (10 g) vanilla extract (extracto de vainilla)
  • 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour* There is NO substitute for American all-purpose flour in Mexico. But you can buy it easily at amazon.com.mx.
  • ¼ cup (32 g) cornstarch (maicena)
  • 3 teaspoons (14.4g) baking powder (polvo de hornear)

Rum Syrup

  • ½ cup (115 g) unsalted butter (mantequilla sin sal)
  • ½ cup (100 g) white sugar (azúcar estándar)
  • ¼ cup (60 mili liters) Mexican dark rum (ron oscuro)
  • ¼ cup water (60 mililiters) (agua)

Instructions 

  • Preheat the oven to 350 Degrees F (180 Degrees C).
  • Grease a 10-inch bundt pan with any neutral oil. Make sure to grease all the crevices in the pan.

TIP: After greasing the pan, coat it with a layer of *breadcrumbs* NOT FLOUR! Flour leads to a splotchy surface & clumps of uncooked flour in the cake. Breadcrumbs create a stronger barrier for easier release and a better-tasting cake.

  • Make sure ALL ingredients are at room temperature.

Make The Cake

  • Sprinkle walnuts in the base of the pan.
  • Whisk butter and sugar until light and fluffy, with a stand- or handheld-mixer, medium speed, for 5-6 minutes. Scrape the sides of the bowl while whisking. 
  • Add eggs, one at a time; mix well after each addition.
  • Add milk, Mexican dark rum, and vanilla extract. Mix well.
  • Add all-purpose flour, cornstarch, and baking powder and mix until combined. Do not overmix. Mix until everything comes together and stop.
  • Pour the batter in the pan and spread evenly.
  • Place in the middle rack of the oven and bake for 40-50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Remove the pan from the oven.

Make The Soaking Syrup

  • Heat butter, sugar, Mexican dark rum, and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat until syrupy (3-4 minutes).

Soak The Cake

  • Pour the hot syrup over the warm cake very slowly. Let the syrup soak in for 5 minutes. Transfer the cake to a cooling rack and cool completely.
  • Cut into slices and serve with whipped cream, if desired.

How about sipping a Dark n’ Stormy to go along?

Recipe adapted from cocktail society. (cocktail-society.com)

Ingredients:

* 2 ounces Mexican dark rum

* 1/2-ounce lime juice, freshly squeezed

* Ginger beer (cerveza de jengibre) 

* Fresh lime

Steps:

  1. Add rum and lime juice to a glass filled with ice
  2. Top with ginger beer
  3. Garnish with fresh lime… Imbibe!

Or, how about a Rum N’ Raisin (Mexican) Tiramisu?

Recipe adapted from taste.com.au. (The Salty Cooker)

Ingredients:

  • 3/4 cup (125g) raisins (pasas, available in local markets)
  • 1 cup (250ml) dark rum* (ron oscuro) *Gustoso Aguardiente; Deadhead Cask Aged Rum; Espiritus Pixan; Pa’Lante
  • 6 egg yolks (yemas de huevo)
  • 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar (azúcar estándar) *To make caster sugar, pulse granulated sugar in a food processor until fine, but not powder.
    • 500g (2 1/3 c) mascarpone
    • 1 tsp (5 g) vanilla extract
  • Juice of 2 oranges (naranjas)
  • 16 sponge finger biscuits (Savoiardi, Italian, and available in Mexican supermarkets)
  • Dark chocolate curls, to serve *Easily make chocolate curls by shaving the edge of a good-quality chocolate bar with a vegetable peeler. Put in refrigerator until ready to use.
  • Cocoa Powder (polvo de cacao), to serve.

Directions:

* Place raisins and 2 Tbs. rum in a bowl and microwave for 1 minute. Cool.

* Beat yolks and sugar, with a mixer on low speed, until pale and thick.

* Gradually add mascarpone, vanilla, 1/4 cup (60ml) orange juice and 1/2 cup (125ml) rum.

* Place remaining orange juice and 1/3 cup (80ml) rum in a shallow dish. 

* Dip half the biscuits in the rum mixture and divide among four 1-cup (250ml) serving glasses. Top with half the raisin mixture, then half the mascarpone mixture. Repeat, finishing with a layer of the mascarpone mixture. 

* Chill for at least 2 hours for flavors to infuse.

* Top with chocolate curls and dust with cocoa and serve.

If you enjoy this delicious Mexican rum cake (and the cocktails!) why not let us know in the comments?

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter on Facebook and X (Twitter), and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” (available at Amazon). She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals.

 

Going big for the 20th SMA Writers Conference and Literary Festival

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SMA Writerss Conference and Literary Festival
With the 20th anniversary of the San Miguel de Allende Writer’s Conference and Literary Festival around the corner, what can we expect in celebration? (Bonnie Lendrum)

As Mexican writer Anita Brenner once said, “Once the dust of Mexico settles on your heart, you will have no rest in any other land.”  These words deeply touched the heart of Susan Page, founder of the San Miguel Writers Conference & Literary Festival. This beautiful quote sums up how she feels about her adopted country. 

I smiled when she told me this, and I must confess, it has also touched my heart. Isn’t it amazing how words can do that? Words and sentiments like this are among the main reasons Susan founded the conference, which has grown rapidly from just 26 people at their first conference to over 3,000 attendees last year. 

The festival has grown exponentially in recent years, thanks to world-class speakers and and a dedicated following. (Bel Woodhouse)

Celebrating its 20th Anniversary next year, the Conference is scheduled for February 25 and has a big line-up, with the announcement of the keynote speaker just days away. All Susan would tell me is that he is “a literary legend in his own time.” It seems like I’ll have to wait for the announcements on August 1st, just like everyone else, no matter how much I pleaded for a sneak peek.

Not just for writers

It’s easy to see why it’s among the biggest cultural events in San Miguel de Allende each year. As well as attracting thousands of attendees, the conference brings in millions of dollars in tourism revenue. And the best part is, it’s not only for writers. There is something for everyone: authors (aspiring or otherwise) and avid readers alike. It’s an all-inclusive literary and cultural gathering where everyone is welcome.

“We’re a unique cultural festival,” Susan explained. “This event is tri-cultural with U.S., Canadian and Mexican authors taking part, and bilingual in English and Spanish. It’s designed for readers as much as it is for writers.”

There’s no problem understanding each other either “The ballroom events are simultaneously translated via headsets. This year we’re introducing roving interpreters,” Susan says. For both English and Spanish speakers the lines of communication are well and truly open.

A jam-packed 5 days of fun

I’ll admit, I’m tempted to get on a plane. Susan told me to expect “five full days. Forty-nine workshops. Eight keynote speakers. Plus receptions, dinners, and storytelling. We also provide excursions for people who want to explore the area. It’s a great way to discover Mexico if you’ve not been here before.” What’s not to love?

Literature, food and cocktails abound at the conference, with attendees drinking in the party spirit. (Bel Woodhouse)

The best part is the Mexican fiesta halfway through. Susan explains it as “a major Mexican fiesta, with Mariachis and a wide variety of festivities. Folklorico dancers, an Aztec ceremony with huge feathered headdresses. Plus giant puppets and lots of food.” For a foodie like me, this sounds like heaven. 

As a big fan of traditional Mexican food, I had to ask what was on the menu. Smiling Susan said, “We try to recreate a jardin on a Saturday night with traditional foods. Plus, there’s a margarita station.” I’m sold.

Do you have to be a writer? 

No. Susan founded this to include everyone of all skill levels. There’s something for novices and hobbyists, through to published authors. “Workshops are very inclusive,” she adds. “The four main categories are fiction, nonfiction, poetry, and memoirs. It’s a cross-genre of all styles of writing.”

It’s about support, inspiration and learning from the best. To give you an idea of what’s in store. Previous keynote speakers have included celebrities, famous writers and poets. Last year saw former Hollywood star turned author Molly Ringwald. The Conference has also hosted big names like Margaret Atwood and U.S. feminist icon Gloria Steinem. Novelist Wally Lamb, Pulitzer Prize winner Barbara Kingsolver, and one of my personal favorites Isabel Allende have all graced the lectern here. The list goes on and on. 

Molly Ringwald
Actress and author Molly Ringwald at the 2024 edition. (Alistair Palmer)

Susan told me there are screenplay writing and storytelling workshops. Hollywood comedy favorites such as Tom Hanks have also been keynote speakers in the past. Having Tom Hanks tell me a story is something I would sign up for! 

The story behind this phenomenal event

“When I arrived in San Miguel in 2003 there was nothing going for writers. San Miguel has a rich literary history and so I put an ad in the paper.” Susan said.

“We started monthly authors readings, where writers gathered to showcase their works. Then we started a bookstore where we sell our books, which is hugely popular. Then we started the Literary Appreciation Program for children in rural communities.”

All of these were successes. So, a year later they started the San Miguel Writer’s Conference and Literary Festival.

What are your visions for the future? 

“We want to continue this tri-cultural conference,” Susan said. “An equal blend of Canadians, Americans, and Mexicans. Attendees are always surprised and delighted. To learn about the literary styles and authors from other countries. It’s very unique.” 

To get in touch, like me, you’ll have to wait until August 1st. Susan laughed at my groan and said “We reveal the names of the keynote speakers on the first. And open registration for the February 12-16 2025 Conference.” 

Before parting she offered a helpful tip. The popular workshops sell out fast so it’s suggested you register early. There’s an early “bard” special. If you register before August 31st you won’t miss any of the amazing keynote speakers. There’s quite a lineup for the 20th Anniversary of the SMA Writer’s Conference and Literary Festival.

Mexico Correspondent for International Living, Bel is an experienced writer, author, photographer and videographer with 500+ articles published both in print and across digital platforms. Living in the Mexican Caribbean for over 7 years now she’s in love with Mexico and has no plans to go anywhere anytime soon.

The gourmet chocolate store offering healing ice baths in Puerto Vallarta

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Raices Chocolateria Puerto Vallarta
Name a more iconic combination than ice baths and chocolate. If you can, it's because you haven't tried the experience on offer at Puerto Vallarta's Raices Chocolateria. (Raices Chocolateria)

I didn’t know what to expect from my first ice bath experience. I’ve always thrived in the heat. The decision to move to Puerto Vallarta came one frigid February morning in New York City when it had snowed for the fourth time that season. I was done with the cold. I won’t even go in a swimming pool if the water is below 26 degrees. So when I told my husband I would try an ice bath wellness experience in Raices Chocolateria, Puerto Vallarta, he just looked at me and laughed.

If there’s one thing I hate more than the cold, it’s being told I can’t handle a challenge.

Raices Chocolateria in Puerto Vallarta is home to not only an ice bath experience, but also (as the name suggests) an ethical chocolate store. (Raices Chocolateria)

So off I went one Sunday to Raices Chocolateria, a local artisanal chocolate shop with a side business of ice baths. Run by husband-and-wife duo Laura and Eduardo out of their former home-turned-chocolate shop, the ice bath experience has become a buzzy Sunday activity for locals and expats in Puerto Vallarta. 

Taking the Plunge

It’s hard to describe the feeling of your body being swallowed by near-freezing water. Your brain goes haywire in the first 20 seconds as the shock hits your nervous system. Your mind scrambles as your body tries to decipher if it’s in danger. Your eyes go wide; your lungs gasp for air; in those first 20 seconds, your brain is literally thinking it’s fighting for your life. My thoughts were jolting like bolts of lighting between “Get out of here” to “You chose this. Just hold on.”

And then the chaos stops. The scramble clears, and there’s a break in the bedlam. You come back to your breath. It softens. I could smell the burning copal, hear the soft music, and feel the warm breeze on my face. Eyes closed, I focused on Laura’s voice guiding me through breathwork, telling me that I was okay. After what felt like two excruciatingly long minutes, Laura told me I had finished the full five-minute session. It was over. I did it, and I felt more alive than ever.

The combination of ice, warm air and scented copal smoke all contribute to a magical experience. (Raices Chocolateria)

After you come out of the ice bath, Laura takes you to a sunny patch in the tropical backyard, where you start to slowly move your limbs, clearing the energy around you and letting your body adjust back to normal. An overwhelming sense of euphoria comes over you. Your brain works in a heightened state of calm, yet your mind is on fire. I have never felt anything like that. It’s high-speed meditation, yoga, and therapy all in one system-shocking five minutes.

“What was that?” I kept asking over and over.

“As ice baths have become more popular, they are finding more and more benefits to deliberate cold exposure,” said Laura. She said some of the top health benefits are increased circulation throughout the body, clarity and focus in mental health, energy boosts, activation of the brown fat organ in the body, which helps sugar levels and metabolism, a decrease in inflammation, and an increase in oxygen in the body.

Research on the mental benefits of ice baths is still in its infancy. However, small studies have shown that five-minute dips in cold water boosted feelings of alertness and attentiveness and decreased perceived anxiety.

It’s these benefits and that feeling that Laura and Eduardo want to share with their community in Puerto Vallarta.

The Roots of Raices

Of course, as is common in travel, love, and wellness, nothing happened on purpose. Laura moved to Mexico to teach. She met Eduardo at a restaurant, and the two fell in love. Their path to opening a chocolateria started by simply experimenting with making chocolates between them. 

“We started making chocolate for ourselves at home, playing around with this seed in its many forms,” said Laura. “As we kept exploring and learning more, we decided that we wanted to share our knowledge, love, and passion for cacao and all its properties with others.”

The Raices experience was first born from a love of chocolate and the cacao bean. (Raices Chocolateria)

They opened Raices Chocolateria out of their home, creating bars of chocolate, truffles, and cacao based beverages based on Indigenous recipes. It was after that they opened their backyard to the ice bath experience, bringing guests in to plunge in two metal tubs set up amid lush plants and burning incense. 

“I had no idea how medicinal, diverse, and transformative cacao truly is,” she said. “The ice bath experience was definitely a surprise aspect to Raices Chocolateria, as it is not our main focus and never was in our original thoughts. But we are so grateful that it has become a part of our lives here and that the benefits of cacao and ice complement each other so well.”

Safety first

As with anything body related, it is essential to talk with your medical professional before you try something new. “As wonderful as the benefits of ice baths are for some people, there are certain people who are not recommended for deliberate cold exposure,” she said. “If you know your body has negative effects when you are exposed to extreme cold, it’s not a good idea to start with something so extreme.”

She suggests that people with heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes, pacemakers, a history of frostbite, open wounds, epilepsy, or pregnancy avoid cold exposure. Laura and Eduardo will have each guest fill out a form where these points and more are discussed. They will also remove you from the bath if they see your body reacting negatively to the cold. Your health and safety come first.

Raices Chocolateria Puerto Vallarta ice bath
Always consult a medical professional before trying an ice bath for the first time – but rest assured that when you do, you will find the experience invigorating. (Raices Chocolateria)

Whether or not ice baths will become part of my wellness regimen remains to be seen. I would be lying if I told you my experience was not transformative. It wholeheartedly was. In all my years of consistent exercise and yoga, I don’t think I’ve ever been as mentally clear or slept as well as I did on the day of my ice bath experience. 

Still, at the end of the day, my husband wasn’t too far off to think that I wouldn’t love sitting on ice. It may be a minute before I can psych myself up again for that.

The details: Raices Chocolateria is a cafe open Tuesday through Sunday, serving cacao-based beverages, chocolate bars, and food. Throughout the week, they offer different chocolate classes and workshops, including tastings, chocolate making, and classes for kids. Ice baths are available on Sundays and Wednesdays.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.

MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Baja California

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Rosarito-Ensenada highway
Home comforts meet Mexico living in Baja California, where two countries fuse together seamlessly. (Avenavaz/Shutterstock)

Most of the Mexico-U.S. border might feel like an off-limits option in today’s binational immigration and security environment. There are six Mexican states across this line in the sand and there’s not much good news coming from either side of “la frontera.” Yet one state (Baja California, which comprises of the northern half of the Baja California peninsula) should draw your attention, for a lifestyle where straddling U.S. and Mexico living might make for the perfect combination of foreign and familiar.

I get asked “Why do you live in Mexico?” by friends and acquaintances, especially when traveling to the U.S. or overseas. If I want to boil down the Mexico living rationale, I often resort to a refrain that sums up this country’s most salient advantage when comparing Mexico with other overseas living options: “foreign and familiar” — a mixture of cultural, culinary, linguistic, historical, and societal expressions co-existing with Mexico’s acceptance and embrace of many things “American” — peanut butter on your morning toast, pyramids in the afternoon; colonial cities and Costco; el Beis (baseball) and birria. I could go on and on.

Tijuana
Mexico and the United States collide throughout Baja California, with the two cultures existing side by side. (Barbara Zandoval/Unsplash)

It’s a region of Mexico with a high degree of familiarity for West Coasters (a Tijuana day trip is a rite of passage for those growing up in SoCal), albeit a mystery to many others exploring coastal living options in Mexico. It’s a place that has sourced many, many stereotypical portrayals of Mexican identity (sometimes unfairly), while also carving out a bicultural hybrid identity that might someday call into question whether a walled border even matters. The urban complex, San Diego-Tijuana, is already one of the hemisphere’s most energetic landscapes of cooperation and entwined destinies. Being a part of this future might just be your Mexico living sweet spot.

Hands down, Baja California is the only place to live on the coast enjoying a “Mediterranean” climate of warm (but rarely humid) summers and winters with seasonal rains and a very stable mean daily temperature. Like San Diego, there will be overcast mornings and don’t expect tropical greenspaces or forested hills. 

Connectivity and Care also earn high marks, as Baja living gifts its inhabitants with the best of Mexico and the U.S. when it comes to getting back home (using San Diego and Tijuana airports for domestic and international flights) and the best of border medicine with Medicare. Sure, you’ll need to get past layers of highway obstacles and a relatively slow international border crossing reality, but San Diego is pretty much within your grasp. Well, unless you opt for Ensenada a further 144 kilometers (89 miles) away.

I would never discount or degrade the culture of Baja California, coopted by U.S. commercial and popular cultural incursions. But the state has also earned its own independence and identity when it comes to lifestyles, artistic expressions and familial and societal relations in defiance of California’s tidal wave of influences. No, you won’t find iconic Mexican relics of archaeology, Spanish colonial architecture, or jaw-dropping landscape diversity. Here, it’s mostly desert, especially if you’re heading inland away from the Pacific. You’ll need to take a flight (three hours to Mexico City) to get your fix of “real” Mexico.

That said, you’ll find plenty of reasons to explore your local surroundings: Tijuana’s sophisticated dining and multicultural performing arts scene, Mexico’s premiere wine country (just over the hill from Ensenada), beaches and more beaches, and two magnificent bodies of water (the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California).

Tijuana

Tijuana is Mexico for many in SoCal, but others might find it lacking in culture. Despite this, the city has grown into a vibrant and pleasant place to live. (tijuanacity.com)

Starting with Tijuana, there are probably more U.S. passport holders living full and part-time than in any other state. English is widely spoken. With 2.1 million metro-area residents, universities, museums, performing arts (Teatro Las Tablas, Centro Cultural Tijuana, Casa de la Cultura), and some of Mexico’s most innovative seafood, Tijuana defies the stereotypes of its past. 

Tijuana is a manufacturing powerhouse and as a result, offers non-stop flights to China. Some 45,000 K-12 students and 45,000 others head into California for work and school every day. A post-COVID-19 sea of remote workers takes advantage of lower cost of living (although this has led to a rise in rental costs), income-tax savings (heard of the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion?) and a cultural spark that’s just not found in the States. 

But there are security issues. Crime, cartel violence, car-jackings, and the ever-menacing border tension realities loom over the area. More U.S. citizens are homicide victims in Baja California State than in any other state in Mexico. A commute to the States for work is brutal by most accounts (50 million annual border crossings happen here). Remote workers experience less stress. As one social media post highlights, “If you want to make the sacrifice, have an end game; don’t be another hamster on the wheel or you’ll go crazy.”

Rosarito

Rosarito beach
Once a quiet beach town, Rosarito has evolved considerably in recent years. (Tripadvisor)

Rosarito (population 127,000); what can you say about it? What started as a humble beach town with a wooden pier and lifeguard stations (another nod to the SoCal beach experience) has grown into a bedroom community for Tijuana and high rise condo towers for thousands of foreigners. Highway 1 and 1D form arteries that run smack dab through the center of town.  In some ways, living here is more about convenience than culture or even “resort” amenities. It’s a surfer haven for some and a breakfast club or happy hour social scene for others.

Gated residential communities line the coast north and south of the city center. More a “mistake” of development than anything very cohesive, the city never rates in the top ten for Mexican beach resorts with a  “wow factor.” There are some high-rise beachfront hotels, but few visitors come for long vacation stays, meaning the weekend “invasion” is more the cycle. 

But it is Mexico’s lobster capital. Puerto Nuevo in particular has Baja-Med cuisine (making dining here expensive by Mexican standards), micro-breweries and Mexico’s biggest annual beach party, Baja Beach Fest, in August. There is a muted multicultural art scene centered around painting and sculpture, and two English-language theater companies. You’ve got convenience, a daily mean temperature of 70 degrees Farenheit (21 Celcius), and sandy Pacific beaches. Oh, and Rosarito was the source of rocks for the 1970’s Pet Rock craze.  

Ensenada

Ensenada
The rocks of Ensenada provide the setting for a genuinely cool and relaxed beach city, with food, wine and tourism aplenty. (Roman López/Unsplash)

An hour’s drive to the south is Ensenada, described by one travel guide as “hedonistic Tijuana’s cosmopolitan sister.” It’s big enough (population 444,000) to stand on its own when it comes to services and amenities and it’s far enough from the border (104 km) to require some effort to get here. This all makes for a haven from the border calamity up north. And Ensenada’s Mexican and expat societies enjoy shared coastal living experiences that can be harder to find in Mexico’s “fly-in,” more trafficked beach locations. 

Those who make the effort to get here (and live year round) are rewarded with a seaport personality and the arrival of 3 to 4 ships per week, Mexico’s best seafood dining and the premier wine country (just over the hill in Valle de Guadalupe), surprising micro-climates should the cool overcast weather grows tiresome and affordability. There are universities and research institutes, some offering courses in English in marine science, winemaking and other interests. Museo de la Historia, Plaza de la Patria and Ventana al Mar Park are all casual hang-outs for expats. 

You’ll also find a diversity of residential neighborhoods in central Ensenada and many more toward the south of the city. You’ll want a car if you live here, and some reports say beach swimming in central Ensenada is not recommended, due to sewage spills — more prevalent in winter than summer. Sound familiar, SoCal? 

Baja California living straddles the U.S. and Mexico, drawing the best conditions for a “foreign and familiar” lifestyle. It’s SoCal with an accent, a tribute to the challenges and rewards of a binational landscape.

The ratings

A full breakdown of our rating system can be found here.

What did we get right? What do you disagree with? Let us know in the comments.

You can see more of our Where to Live in Mexico 2024 series here, including ratings for Yucatán, Oaxaca and Quintana Roo.

Author Greg Custer lives in Mexico. He’s worked for over 40 years in international tourism, educating travel advisors around the world about Mexico and other Latin American destinations. He helps folks explore Mexico for living at www.mexicoforliving.com. 

Speedy Gonzales: The mouse that outran cancel culture

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Speedy Gonzales cartoon
One small, Mexican mouse stands above all others when it comes to classic cartoons — but in the early 2000s, he came very close to cancellation before being saved by an unlikely ally. (Shutterstock)

As I passed through the streets of the Zocalo in Mexico City’s colonia Centro, a familiar phrase caught my ear. “Ándale, mijo,” a father urged his dawdling son, gently steering him through the bustling morning crowd. “Ándale.” In an instant, my mind automatically conjured the high-pitched voice of a cartoon mouse: “Ándale! Ándale! Arriba! Arriba!” The memory of Speedy Gonzales, the “fastest mouse in all Mexico,” flashed through my mind, complete with his oversized sombrero, exaggerated accent and outsized bravado.

I found myself reflecting on the pint-sized Looney Tunes character who had been a staple of my childhood Saturday mornings. How had this caricature of a Mexican mouse shaped my perceptions — and those of millions of other American children — about our neighbors to the south? Now, as a more informed adult who had immersed herself in Mexican culture, I could look at Speedy and see the ways in which he and the Mexican characters he interacted with fostered potentially negative ethnic prejudices. Yet, was Speedy a harmless bit of fun or a problematic purveyor of cultural stereotypes? How did the Mexican community feel about him? And what would become of him over time?

Speedy Gonzales intro
Is any cartoon depiction of a nation as enduring as the image of Mexico portrayed by Speedy Gonzales? (Reddit)

The origins of a controversial rodent

Speedy Gonzales made his on-screen debut in 1953 as the brainchild of animators Friz Freleng and Robert McKimson. Originally intended to be a one-show character, Speedy became so popular that he was kept on for 45 episodes of the Looney Tunes show, eventually winning an Academy Award for Best Animated Short Film in 1955 for the cartoon “Speedy Gonzales.”

Although some have claimed that the character’s name is the result of a sexual joke (one can fill in the blanks as to why it references “speed”), former Warner Brothers animator Martha Goldman Sigall confirmed the name was born of an interaction between assistant animator Frank Gonzales and a group of the company’s story writers. Gonzales was sharing his new way of speeding up his drawing process with the group, which inspired the writers’ use of the nickname “Speedy Gonzales”. 

Voiced by Mel Blanc (a white actor who was the voice behind most Looney Tunes characters), Speedy was depicted as a clever, lightning-fast mouse who often outwitted his feline nemesis, Sylvester. His catchphrases — “Ándale! Ándale!” and “Arriba! Arriba!” — became instantly recognizable, even to non-Spanish speakers. 

In his later years, Speedy made appearances in films like “Who Framed Roger Rabbit”, “Looney Tunes: Back in Action”, and the “Space Jam” franchise. He has appeared in various media, including songs, video games, and commercials over the decades, gaining praise as one of the most successful Mexican characters ever created in Hollywood.

Martha Goldman Sigall at right
Martha Goldman Sigall (right) and the animation team behind Speedy Gonzales. (Animation Magazine)

With his yellow sombrero, white shirt and trousers, and red neckerchief, Speedy cuts a distinctly stereotypical figure of mid-20th century American perceptions of Mexican culture. It’s this American take on Mexican cultural garb, coupled with the character’s exaggerated Spanglish, and the unflattering portrayal of his fellow mice, that has fueled decades of controversy. 

Speedy’s appearances, particularly throughout the 1950s and 60s, often featured him helping his fellow Mexican mouse compatriots, usually slow-witted and living in squalor, to steal cheese from a “Gringo” cat. These plot lines, while entertaining to many, caught the attention of cultural critics who saw them as perpetuating harmful stereotypes.

Controversy and cancellation

As awareness of cultural sensitivity grew in the late 20th century, Speedy Gonzales found himself at the center of a heated debate. Between 1999 and 2002, Cartoon Network pulled Speedy Gonzales cartoons from its U.S. broadcast lineup, citing concerns over ethnic stereotyping. 

The move backfired, sparking an outcry — but not from the group one might expect. Instead of praise from progressives, the network encountered a backlash from an unexpected source: the Hispanic community itself. Many Mexican-Americans and Latinos protested the decision, arguing that Speedy was a positive character– quick-witted, heroic and always victorious. The League of United Latin American Citizens even called for Speedy’s return, describing him as a “cultural icon.” Thus, Speedy narrowly escaped being canceled, surprisingly saved by the community he is thought to portray negatively. 

Background of Speedy Gonzales
Despite claims that the stereotypes within the show were negative, Latino fans of Speedy Gonzales rallied to save the show from cancellation. (Reddit)

The Mexican perspective

Interestingly, the controversy surrounding Speedy Gonzales seems largely driven by the United States. Among Mexican communities and in much of Latin America, the character enjoys enduring popularity. Speedy’s reception in Mexico itself has been largely positive. South of the border, he’s seen as more of a playful cultural ambassador than an insulting caricature. This difference in perception demonstrates the subjective nature of cultural representation. Many Mexicans view Speedy as a plucky, clever underdog hero who consistently outsmarts his adversaries — a theme that resonates deeply in Mexican culture.

Mexican actor Eugenio Derbez has defended the character, likening him to a superhero for the Mexican community. “The only ones offended are the Americans, but we love Speedy Gonzales,” Derbez said in Spanish. “He’s smart. He outsmarts the cats. He’s a hero. He gets cheese for his people. He’s fast.” He told United Press International in April 2024.

This sentiment is echoed by many Mexicans who grew up watching Speedy. They tend to focus on his positive qualities: speed, wit, bravery, and loyalty to his friends, rather than seeing him as a negative stereotype. Mexican comic Gabriel Iglesias, who voiced Speedy in “Space Jam” defended the character on Twitter, declaring, “U can’t catch me cancel culture. I’m the fastest mouse in all of Mexico.”

A complex legacy

For many Americans, Speedy may have been their first (albeit cartoonish) exposure to Mexican culture. The danger lies in such siloed exposure becoming a basis for real-world assumptions. While the character certainly incorporates stereotypical elements, Speedy’s reception in Mexico suggests that reactions to cross-cultural representation are subjective, varying widely depending on the viewer’s cultural context. 

Speedy Gonzales Best Moments

Are some just too sensitive to the act of poking fun at other cultures? How do we handle the representation of a character or context cross culturally? Must characters be fully canceled due to past stereotypical portrayals, or can characters be reimagined into more culturally respectful beings? Only time will tell, but the little mouse delivers a big reminder. Speedy’s case highlights the importance of looking past a distinctly North American “woke” litmus test to media, and listening instead to the actual voices of those being represented. Sometimes, they might surprise us with their enthusiasm for characters we thought problematic.

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at https://medium.com/@monicabelot.

The week’s most mouth-watering Mexican memes

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Hello, my fellow humor lovers! It’s time once again for MND’s roundup of hilarious Mexican memes, our favorite day of the… quincena. I’d do these weekly, but we’ve got a budget, you see.

But no matter. For you, my fine readers, the most delectable Mexican memes of the week, complete with translation and commentary by yours truly. I spoil you because I love you.

Meme translation: None needed here.

What does it meme? Super adorable, right?

Here we have the famed rapper Tupac in two panels: a fun, casual look  —he’s your buddy! — on one side, and his Sunday best — he’s your boss! — on the other.

If you’ve taken even the most rudimentary of Spanish classes, you’ve surely learned the difference between the pronouns “tú” and “usted.” 

“Tú” is “you” for, essentially, your social equals or inferiors: family and friends, those you know well, those younger than you. “Usted” is “you” for those you want to be careful to show respect to, either because they’re older or in a position of authority; it’s also useful for putting down a bit of social distance, something I appreciate especially when in close quarters with strange men — like when you’re in a taxi. Cute, right?

Meme translation: “Hmm… what else can I clean so I don’t have to start on my to-do list?”

What does it meme? Oh, how hard this one hit! 

I am, as you may know if you’ve been reading me for a while, an enthusiastic cleaner and decorator. It’s something I like to do even if I’m not trying to avoid other things, so you can imagine how easy it is when I am.

Needless to say, my house is usually sparkling. My to-do list, though, is always fairly “meh.”

Meme translation: “The risk I took was calculated. But man… I’m bad at math.”

What does it meme? Adorable, right?

In a sea of phrases that have no translation and therefore are completely meaningless in English, calculated risk is an idiom that’s actually the same in both languages. And it just feels good when you can translate something word for word and know exactly what it means, doesn’t it?

Meme translation: “Me at 3 a.m. in the backwoods after a chill outing with my buddies.” 

“Right, lady, but where exactly did you lose them?”

What does it meme? I’ve gone over “algo tranqui” before — check the second meme down here, and just remember that when someone invites you to “something chill,” that it is almost always a lie. You’re welcome.

Anyway! Here we have a very drunk little fellow who has stumbled upon La Llorona, one of Mexico’s most famous scary legends. Most would run, but the bottle in his hand has made him bold. “No, really, where did you last see them?”

Meme translation: “When ‘unknowen’ with an ‘e’ calls your husband.”

What does it meme? Oof. So close to getting away with it, buddy.

It’s not easy having an affair these days. We always know who’s calling, and we all know where our loved ones are most all of the time. Honestly, I have no idea how people have affairs these days without anyone finding out unless their partners are purposefully shielding their eyes.

It won’t stop some people from trying, of course. One of the techniques is saving a lover’s contact under something neutral and unassuming. “Domino’s Pizza,” “Juan – mecánico,” “Unknown.”

If you’re going to try being sneaky like that, though, for goodness sake: get the spelling right.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Meet a millennial entrepreneur helping Mexican companies compete with China

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Andrés Díaz Bedolla, Mexican entrepreneur
Andrés Díaz Bedolla is a Mexican entrepreneur and founder of a nearshoring startup, Yumari. (Courtesy)

I was introduced to young Mexican entrepreneur Andrés Díaz Bedolla by the American Chamber of Commerce of Mexico during a conversation about nearshoring and the move of foreign direct investment from China to Mexico.

The team at AmCham said that Andrés was most definitely someone to “keep an eye on” and who I needed to talk to.

I began our conversation with the provocative question I posed in my column last week: What if everyone benefits from nearshoring in Mexico except Mexicans?

Andrés recently founded a fast-growing Mexican startup called Yumari, with a clear objective to make sure Mexicans stand to benefit from nearshoring.

To understand the business, it is first important to understand why so many companies moved manufacturing to China, which comes down to two reasons: it was cheap and easy.

Even though it meant a much longer supply chain, the fact that it was cheap and easy made up for it. Since companies are now concerned about the supply chain, we all know that they are looking for other places to produce their goods — places with a shorter supply chain, and ideally, that are cheap and easy to work in.

Mexico is obviously a much shorter supply chain in proximity to the United States, Mexico is competitively priced — but Mexico is certainly not as easy as China.

“Chinese companies can give you a price including all of the logistics to your doorstep and give you all the specifications you need on the same day,” said Andrés. “Mexican companies take two weeks to get you a price, then another two weeks to get you the specifications that you need, then another two weeks to quote you the freight cost to Laredo.”

His concern is that Chinese companies, recognizing their ability to move quickly and make working with them easy, will try to replicate their factories and ease of doing business in Mexico. This attractive option for the buyer could create a scenario in which Mexican companies are outplayed and lose out, not only on new opportunities for growth but on the existing business that they already have.

The solution, according to Andrés, is to help make Mexican companies faster and easier to work with. In other words, helping make them a viable alternative to Chinese solutions.

This is where his new company Yumari is focusing its efforts.

Andrés worked for a decade in China before moving back to Mexico to run the Latin American operation of the Chinese company Alibaba.com.

In this role, Andrés recruited Mexican businesses to join the Alibaba.com platform in order to connect them with Chinese businesses. In theory, the model was to help Mexican buyers source from Chinese suppliers and vice versa. In reality, it just provided Mexican buyers an easy path to source from China — Chinese buyers had little interest or incentive to source from Mexican companies.

With this realization, and with the nearshoring boom underway, Andrés came up with the idea of creating a North American version of Alibaba.com, a platform that would connect U.S. and Canadian buyers (who previously had bought from China) with Mexican producers.

Yumari is focusing on providing not only buyer to seller connection, but also working with the Mexican producers to help them learn the efficient processes that their buyers have come to expect in working with China.

In other words, this Mexican entrepreneur is providing the platform, the tools and the experience to help Mexican companies benefit from the nearshoring opportunity.

Yumari is just getting started, but I think that it is safe to say that they are in the right place at the right time.

Companies from around the world are looking to manufacture in Mexico. The big companies just move entire factories to Mexico. The smaller companies will look for sources of supply in Mexico. If they can’t find it locally, they might look elsewhere or they might ask their current Chinese supplier to move to Mexico.

Companies like Yumari can provide the experience and training to help make Mexican companies competitive and meet customer expectations.

I’m betting on Andrés and his team being successful in ensuring that Mexican companies are ready to compete, and that Mexicans maximize their benefit from nearshoring.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for over 27 years.

Don’t call it a comeback – Mexican rum has been around for centuries

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From humble roots, the Mexican rum revolution has rapidly gathered steam of the course of century. (Cofradía Bonilla)

Mexican-made rums will likely never be as popular as the country’s tequila and mezcal. But it’s not quality that’s holding them back. Despite an underappreciated reputation for producing sugar cane-based spirits, Mexico has a long tradition of making rum and its country cousin, aguardiente de caña, and its best are as good as those found anywhere in the world.

Why do so few people seem to know this? History has something to do with it, thanks to a prohibition during the 18th century that drove rum production underground. 

Paranubes is distilled from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice in the cloud forest of Oaxaca’s Sierra Mazateca. (Paranubes)

The history of rum prohibition in Mexico

It all started with a rum-like spirit called chiringuito, made in Mexico but bound for Spain as part of colonial trade. Chiringuito was not a rum properly speaking, as it was not made using molasses, making it closer to aguardiente. Sweet raisin wines were being shipped to Mexico aboard Spanish galleons, and rather than having the barrels sent back empty on the return trip, they were instead filled with chiringuito. 

It was an efficient solution with unexpected flavor consequences when the rum soaked up some of the raisin flavors from wines previously in the barrels. This unique-tasting spirit was a hit with the Spanish populace, so much so that King Felipe V would eventually ban it circa 1700. The ostensible reason was the threat chiringuito posed to Spanish wine and brandy interests, but public drunkenness and debauchery from the liquor also seemed to be an issue. 

The prohibition didn’t stop people from making rum in Mexico, but it did force producers to get creative to avoid detection by authorities. Thus, during the 18th century, it was largely made in small-scale batches in kitchens, mostly by women. This era is remembered today by El Ron Prohibido, a brand first released in 2013 by the makers of Tequila Corralejo. It’s aged for up to 15 years using the Spanish solera system associated with sherry — and yes, the raisin flavor is still in evidence for this rum, along with notes of walnut, vanilla, butter and coffee. 

How rum production ramped back up again

As a result of the prohibition and its aftermath, it was a long time before rum was made on a large scale again in Mexico. It wouldn’t happen again until the colonial period was over and the country had won her independence — and even then it took a boost from a foreign rum maker to bring the industry back to life. In 1931 Bacardi, the then-Cuba-based rum giant, opened its first international distillery in Mexico to help meet popular demand. It’s still open today, although the location has moved several times. Originally based in Mexico City, production shifted to Puebla in 1952, then to Tultitlán in México state in 1959.

One of the most awarded Mexican rums is the 23-year-old single-barrel Villa Rica. (Licores Veracruz)

Bacardi’s arrival seemed to act as a spur for homegrown Mexican rum makers. Ron Huasteco Potosí began distilling in Ciudad Valles, San Luis Potosí in 1938. This rum brand was among the first to achieve widespread popularity in Mexico — 120,000 liters a week were bottled at its peak in the 1960s — and to garner international attention for its exceptional quality. Ron La Gloria followed in 1949 and helped establish Veracruz as one of the leading centers for modern Mexican rums. 

The three regional centers of modern Mexican rum production

There are now three regional hotspots for rum in Mexico: Michoacán, Oaxaca and Veracruz. However, it bears noting that these liquors are distilled using different methods and sometimes different names (like aguardiente de caña). But all are members of the rum family in that they are made from fermented sugar cane products and distilled to 37.5-40% alcohol by volume (ABV) or higher — the European Union and U.S. minimums, respectively.

Veracruz

Licores Veracruz has helped raise the profile of the nation’s rums with its superb examples of extensively aged añejos. Villa Rica is the most famous of these. This 23-year-old single-barrel expression has been lauded as one of the best rums in the world, being singled out by the International Taste Institute in 2020 after a blind tasting from some 200 chefs and sommeliers. However, the 20-year-old Mocambo has also been lauded for its quality.

The Villanueva family, originally from Galicia, Spain, is responsible for these treasures. They’ve been making rums under the Licores Veracruz brand for over 60 years, using sugar cane sourced from nearly a dozen regional mills. Ron La Gloria, an early pioneer in Veracruz, also continues to produce high-quality añejo rums.

Michoacán

Michoacán’s charanda is the only Mexican rum with a government-recognized denomination of origin and Charanda Uruapan is a top producer. (Casa Tarasco Spirits)

Charanda is the only Mexican rum with a government-certified denomination of origin, with 16 municipalities in Michoacán boasting the proper conditions to make it. These conditions include high altitude, rising up to 12,600 feet. The soil, however, gives the regional sugarcane its distinctive character and the spirit its unusual name — ”charanda” is the Purépecha word for red soil and the name of the mountain in Uruapan on whose foothills the liquor was first distilled. 

Sugarcane has been grown in the state since 1550, but the first evidence of Charanda making wasn’t documented until sometime during the  mid-19th century. Founded in 1907, Charanda Uruapan was an early specialist and remains one of the benchmark brands. Its rums, like all those from the state, are double-distilled, either from molasses or fermented fresh-pressed sugarcane juice.

Oaxaca

Similar to Charanda, but unlike rums from Veracruz, those produced in Oaxaca are mostly unaged. The regional style resembles cachaça in Brazil or Caribbean rhum agricole, meaning it originates from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice rather than molasses. These rums are made in the mountains, typically by small-batch producers. José Luís Carrera, for instance, distills his potent 54% ABV Paranubes brand rum from cane grown in the cloud forest of the Sierra Mazateca.

The quality of the rums currently being made in these three areas has led many to suggest a rum revival in the offing, a sales boom like those that have helped to lift all boats in the tequila and mezcal categories in recent years. Whether that happens or it doesn’t, Mexico’s rums are among the best values available. Compared to premium examples of tequila they’re a veritable bargain — at least domestically. Villa Rica sells for a little over US $30 US, while Charanda Azul Uruapan can be purchased for $33 per bottle and Paranubes goes for $37.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

With exports up, Mexico is on track for another record-setting year

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employee at Zicua auto plant in Puebla City, Mexico
The manufacturing sector was responsible for almost 90% of export revenue. (Mireya Novo/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico is on track to set a new record for exports in 2024, shipping goods worth almost US $300 billion abroad in the first six months of the year.

Preliminary data published by the national statistics agency INEGI on Friday showed that Mexican exports were worth $299.38 billion between January and June, a 2.6% increase compared to the same period of last year.

The value of Mexico’s exports in 2023 was just over $593 billion, a record high.

The majority of Mexico’s export revenue in the first six months of this year came from the shipment abroad of manufactured goods including vehicles, machinery and electronic products. Manufacturing sector exports generated revenue of $266.4 billion, or 89% of the total.

The remaining 11% of export revenue came from the shipment abroad of oil, agricultural products and minerals and metals.

Almost 84% of Mexico’s non-oil export revenue came from products shipped to the United States.

Shipping containers filled with export and import goods at Lázaro Cárdenas port in Michoacán, Mexico
Mexico exported $299.38 billion woth of goods between January and June of this year. (Cuartoscuro)

Imports exceeded exports, leaving Mexico with a trade deficit of over $5 billion

INEGI reported that Mexico imported products worth $304.88 billion between January and June.

The country’s biggest outlay was on intermediate, or semi-finished, goods, such as metal, wood, glass, wheat and sugar. Mexico spend $229.9 billion on intermediate goods, a figure that accounts for just over 75% of its total outlay on imports.

The remaining 25% of expenditure was on consumer products, oil and capital goods.

Mexico recorded a trade deficit of $5.49 billion in the first six months of the year, a 15.5% decrease compared to its deficit between January and June 2023.

Exports declined in June 

Mexico’s export revenue totaled $48.87 billion in June, a 5.7% decline compared to the same month last year. On a month-over-month basis revenue fell 12.2%.

Expenditure on imports also declined, falling 3.6% in annual terms to $49.9 billion.

Mexico thus recorded a trade deficit of $1.03 billion in June.

Other ‘need-to-know’ economic data for Mexico 

Mexico News Daily 

‘El Mayo’ Zambada: Who is the elusive Sinaloan drug trafficker arrested in Texas?

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The front pages of newspapers showing El Mayo Zambada's face with headlines in Spanish.
Since his arrest Thursday, El Mayo's face has been plastered across the front pages of newspapers, despite there being relatively few photos of the elusive drug trafficker. But the question remains, who is Mayo Zambada? (Galo Cañas Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

“The mountain is my home, my family, my protection, my land, the water I drink.”

They are the words of top Sinaloa Cartel leader Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada, who was arrested in the United States on Thursday along with Joaquín Guzmán López, one of the sons of imprisoned drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán Loera.

Ismael El Mayo Zambada, who was recently arrested in Texas, and Joaquin Guzmán López
Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada (left) was taken into custody alongside Joaquín Guzmán López, son of famous Sinaloa Cartel trafficker El Chapo Guzmán. (Archive)

In a 2010 interview in Sinaloa with the now-deceased Proceso magazine founder and journalist Julio Scherer, Zambada also said that he could be captured “at any moment, or never.”

Fourteen years later — and for the first time ever in his long criminal career — his time finally came.

Who is El Mayo?

Zambada was born in 1948 in El Álamo, a town in the municipality of Culiacán, the capital of the state of Sinaloa.

A view of a rural dirt road with fences and houses, where El Mayo Zambada was born.
Zambada’s hometown is El Álamo, a rural community in the Sinaloan municipality of Culiacán. (Screenshot/YouTube)

He was a poppy field worker and farmer before he began working for the Juárez Cartel in the 1980s.

Asked by Scherer how he first got involved in the world of drug trafficking, El Mayo simply — and repeatedly — responded “nomás,” or “I just did.”

Toward the end of the ’80s, Zambada, Guzmán Loera and others formed the Sinaloa Cartel, also known as the Pacific Cartel.

Over a period of decades, El Mayo, El Chapo and other Sinaloa Cartel members built a multi-billion-dollar empire on cocaine and heroin, among other drugs, as well as human trafficking.

Mexican authorities remove fentanyl pills, methamphetamine and cocaine from a drug lab found in Culiacán, Sinaloa, in February.
Mexican authorities remove fentanyl pills, methamphetamine and cocaine from a drug lab found in Culiacán, Sinaloa, in February. El Mayo’s faction of the Sinaloa Cartel is likely the top smuggler of fentanyl into the United States.(FGR/Cuartoscuro)

A Sinaloa faction led (or formerly led) by Zambada is currently regarded as the top smuggler of fentanyl into the United States.

In 2010, he told Proceso that he continued to work as a farmer and rancher in Sinaloa, but added: “If I can do some business in the United States, I do it.”

El Mayo and other Sinaloa Cartel leaders invested money obtained from drug trafficking into hundreds of companies, according to the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA).

A water park and a children’s daycare center allegedly run by Zambada’s daughter María Teresa are among El Mayo’s many interests, according to a 2018 report. He also owns vast tracts of farmland in Sinaloa.

“He has a very diversified portfolio,” Mike Vigil, the former head of international operations for the DEA,” said at the time.

“Even though he’s only had maybe an elementary-school education, he’s received a Harvard-level education from some of the most prolific, knowledgeable and astute drug lords that Mexico has ever had,” he said.

The DEA wanted notice for El Mayo Zambada, who was recently arrested. It includes his photo, nickname and alleged crimes.
El Mayo has spent much of his life on wanted lists, including that of the U.S. DEA. (U.S. DEA)

“… Mayo Zambada is one of the most astute drug traffickers that Mexico has ever spawned,” Vigil said.

The Associated Press reported that he “reputedly won the loyalty of locals in his home state of Sinaloa and neighboring Durango through his largess, sponsoring local farmers and distributing money and beer in his birthplace of El Álamo.”

One project he reportedly contributed to in Él Alamo was the reconstruction of the town church after it was damaged in a storm.

According to El País, Zambada served as “a bridge between government and the Sinaloa Cartel.”

Organized crime expert Chris Dalby told Mexico News Daily earlier this year that the Sinaloa Cartel has long-established criminal networks in northern Mexico that include corrupt municipal and state officials because “playing ball is just part of the game up there.”      

Members of El Mayo’s family, including his sons, have also worked for the Sinaloa Cartel.

How did El Mayo avoid arrest for so long?

While his Sinaloa Cartel co-founder El Chapo was arrested and imprisoned on three occasions (he escaped from jail twice), Zambada had never been behind bars, until Thursday.

He had been sought for years by United States authorities, who were offering a reward of up to US $15 million for information that led to his arrest.

El Chapo wearing handcuffs, escorted by police
While El Chapo Guzmán was arrested three times and has spent years in prison, Thursday marks El Mayo’s first arrest. (U.S. DEA)

“Zambada Garcia is unique in that he has spent his entire adult life as a major international drug trafficker, yet he has never spent a day in jail,” the U.S. Department of State says on its website.

During a long criminal career, he maintained a much lower profile than Guzmán Loera, and took steps to ensure he remained beyond the reach of the long arm of the law.

“Zambada is known for being an ‘old-school’ narco, avoiding the limelight and operating in the shadows,” Reuters reported.

Margarito Flores, a former drug distributor for the Sinaloa Cartel in Chicago, told The Wall Street Journal that El Mayo “was very careful about security and didn’t use cellphones.”

Flores, who spent 12 years in jail on drug trafficking charges, also said that Zambada gave the impression that he was a simple rancher, eschewing common trappings of successful narcos such as expensive jewelry.

As El Mayo said himself in 2010, the mountainous region of Sinaloa where he lived also protected him.

“I have been up into those mountains and it’s very difficult to capture anybody,” Vigil, the former DEA official, said in 2018.

The details of how El Mayo came to arrive at an airport near El Paso on Thursday are not yet clear, but several reports citing United States officials said he was tricked into going to the U.S. by Joaquín Guzmán López, who reportedly told the capo they were going to inspect clandestine airfields or real estate at a location in Mexico.

Another possibility is that the 76-year-old drug lord — who is reportedly ill — decided to surrender after reaching some kind of agreement with United States authorities.

El Mayo Zambada, older and thinner than in other photos, in a car wearing a blue shirt.
El Mayo, seen here in a recent photo, is reportedly in poor health. (X)

Given that he evaded justice for decades, it seems likely that he could have lived out the remainder of his life as a free man if he didn’t stray too far from his rugged mountain home.

How powerful was El Mayo?

In a word — very.

United States Attorney General Merrick B. Garland called Zambada an alleged leader of “one of the most violent and powerful drug trafficking organizations in the world.”

While El Chapo was a better known and flashier kingpin, El Mayo wielded enormous influence within the Sinaloa Cartel.

“This question of who was the biggest Sinaloan kingpin, El Mayo or El Chapo, has long been discussed. Chapo shot up to global rock-star status with his two prison escapes, his beauty queen wife and his meeting with Sean Penn,” Ioan Grillo, a Mexico-based journalist and author, wrote on his Substack site CrashOut Media on Friday.

El Chapo shakes hands with actor Sean Penn
El Chapo’s meeting with actor Sean Penn shot him to global fame, while El Mayo preferred to work in the shadows. (Rolling Stone via Cuartoscuro)

“But many I talked to on the ground in Sinaloa believed Mayo was the bigger player, and effectively the top man in the tangled network of traffickers we call the Sinaloa Cartel,” Grillo said.

Insight Crime, a think tank and media organization, described Zambada as “arguably the last member” of the Sinaloa Cartel’s “old guard.”

“He reportedly relied on several armed wings to operate. This included the Rusos and the Ántrax, which helped him maintain control over key trafficking corridors to the US-Mexico border, particularly in the northern states of Baja California and Sonora,” Insight Crime said.

What’s next for the Sinaloa kingpin?

Attorney General Garland said Thursday that Zambada faces charges of “fentanyl trafficking, money laundering, firearms offenses, kidnapping and conspiracy to commit murder.”

In a U.S. federal court in El Paso on Friday, El Mayo pleaded not guilty to the charges he faces.

A document in which El Mayo Zambada declares himself not guilty of accused crimes.
El Mayo pleaded not guilty in El Paso on Friday. (PACER)

Frank Perez, a lawyer for Zambada, told The Los Angeles Times that his client did not voluntarily fly across the border and turn himself in.

“I have no comment except to state that he did not surrender voluntarily,” Perez said. “He was brought against his will.”

Arraignment and detention hearings are scheduled for next Wednesday in El Paso. Given that he pleaded not guilty, Zambado looks set to go on trial in the United States, just as El Chapo did over a period of three months in 2018 and 2019.

Guzmán Loera was found guilty on drug trafficking charges in February 2019 and sentenced to life in prison in July of the same year.

What impact will El Mayo’s arrest have on the Sinaloa Cartel and the flow of drugs to the US?

Falko Ernst, senior Mexico analyst for the NGO Crisis Group, wrote on X on Thursday that “amid all the incipient Mayo-palooza, we shouldn’t forget that we’re talking about a structure with a thousand heads that won’t fundamentally change shape because a kingpin or two get taken/take themselves out.”

“That would be blind, historically,” he added.

Zambada told Proceso in 2010 that nothing would change if he was arrested.

Ernst told The New York Times that the Sinaloa Cartel is already fragmented, and asserted that the arrests will probably trigger more in-fighting.

Mexican soldiers unload from an airplane in Culiacán after the arrest of El Mayo Zambada in Texas.
The army sent 200 special forces troops to Culiacán after El Mayo’s arrest as a security precaution. (X)

“If the narrative [of betrayal] gains traction, there will be bad blood in the organization,” he told The Guardian, referring to the possibility that Guzmán López tricked Zambada into going to the United States.

“There’s been quite a lot of violence between factions, and that might heat up as this story unfolds,” Ernst said.

Insight Crime described the arrest of El Mayo Zambada and Guzmán López as an “important but mostly symbolic victory.”

“While the capture of Zambada García marks the fall of the last remaining old-school drug trafficker in Mexico, sources told Insight Crime that he had largely taken a step back from the Sinaloa Cartel’s day-to-day operations in recent years,” the organization reported.

“… These captures are not likely to affect the flow of synthetic drugs, especially fentanyl, into the United States,” Insight Crime said.

How did Mexican authorities react to the arrest?

Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez said Friday morning that Mexican authorities were not involved in the arrests of Zambada and Joaquín Guzmán López.

She told President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s morning press conference that the Mexican government was awaiting further details about the arrests from its U.S. counterpart, including information about whether Zambada turned himself in.

López Obrador called for transparency from the U.S. government.

Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez speaks at a podium with photos of El Mayo Zambada and Joaquín Guzmán López behind her.
Security Minister Rosa Icela Rodríguez said at a Friday morning press conference that Mexican authorities were not involved in the arrests. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

“The United States government has to provide a complete report, not just general statements, it has to inform, there has to be transparency,” he said.

Rodríguez said that the government considers the arrest of El Mayo Zambada as “positive,” as it does when any person who has committed a crime is taken into custody.

She also said she was surprised by the news of his arrest, as “everyone” was.

“Of course it is significant and it’s positive,” Rodríguez added.

Mexico News Daily