The tainted lettuce that Taylor Farms distributed has been traced by the FDA to a contracted farm in the Mexican state of Guanajuato. Mexico's food safety agency Cofepris disputes that conclusion. (Shutterstock)
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) concluded its investigation of this past summer’s multistate parasite outbreak, saying its testing had positively identified the source of the outbreak as cyclospora at a farm in Guanajuato that supplied iceberg lettuce to a U.S. distributor.
With that, the FDA declared its inquiry closed, even though its probe did not conclusively determine how the contamination occurred.
Cofepris claims tests conducted by its national reference laboratory on raw materials, finished products and water from the facilities in Guanajuato were negative for the cyclospora parasite. (Unsplash)
In a press release, the FDA said its studies “identified several farms and a processing facility in Mexico that provided recalled lettuce distributed by Taylor Fresh Foods,” adding that there is “strong epidemiological data and traceback convergence supporting the link between this outbreak and recalled shredded iceberg lettuce from Taylor Farms de México.”
While the FDA investigations were conducted in coordination with Mexican officials, Mexico’s food-safety regulator Cofepris insists there is no conclusive evidence to attribute the origin to Mexican products.
Cofepris claims tests conducted by its national reference laboratory on raw materials, finished products and water from the facilities in Guanajuato were negative for the cyclospora parasite.
It also asserts that environmental findings alone do not constitute conclusive evidence that agricultural products were the source of contamination.
The FDA conceded much the same in its press release, saying “[w]hile there is currently not enough evidence to conclusively determine how contamination occurred in this outbreak, the positive samples show that Cyclospora was present in the environment where lettuce was grown and processed.”
As such, Cofepris insists the available analytical data does not allow for a determination that Mexican products were the source of the outbreak.
For its part, Taylor Farms blamed the contamination on an independent grower who is no longer part of its supplier program.
The inspection of the Taylor Farms Guanajuato facility occurred in August and was the FDA’s first in more than seven years following a steep drop in international food safety inspections after the COVID-19 pandemic.
“Our facility remains closed in central Mexico as we work with our research team to implement enhanced safety protocols from the field to the facility,” Taylor Farms said.
This latest inconclusive outcome comes after conflicting findings in July when the FDA admitted that a laboratory test had resulted in a false positive.
The outbreak, which was declared to be over on Sept. 11 by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, sickened 12,883 people in 21 U.S. states, resulting in the hospitalization of 570 people. It was also linked to two deaths.
A mysterious box left unattended on a Metro car can't be ignored by security personnel, even if it eventually turns out to contain nothing more harmful than churros. (@metrocdmx/X)
A ride on the Metro and a freshly made churro are essential Mexico City experiences. An unattended box on Line 7 last week showed why the two should not necessarily be combined.
When a passenger reported an unattended cardboard box on a train traveling southbound from El Rosario toward Barranca del Muerto on Friday, Metro security personnel and officers from Mexico City’s Policía Bancaria e Industrial (PBI) sprang into action.
Churros, for the uninitiated, are quintessential Mexican deep-fried pastries, like elongated donuts, that are often enjoyed dipped in thick hot chocolate. (Camara Negra / Unsplash)
With the package sitting alone in a train car, the standard protocol for suspicious objects was triggered, according to media reports. Officers reportedly checked it for hazardous materials, explosive devices or other threats.
What they found was churros.
Photos circulated by the Metro system showed an open cardboard box filled with paper-wrapped pastries that appeared ready for sale. No injuries or service disruption were reported.
The train was halted at the Mixcoac station for the inspection, but there were no reports on whether passengers were evacuated from the car in question, much less the entire train.
The discovery quickly transformed a potential security alert into a social media anecdote. Commenters “mourned” the apparent vendor’s lost sales and joked that a forgotten phone would have drawn less concern than the churros did.
Metro authorities advise passengers not to open, touch, kick or move unattended packages, backpacks or boxes. Riders should instead notify security personnel via phone or a train intercom.
Line 7 links El Rosario in the northwest with Barranca del Muerto in the south, passing through the Polanco hotel zone, Chapultepec, and other busy commercial and residential areas of the capital. Before the pandemic, it averaged around 300,000 riders per day.
Churros, fried dough typically coated in cinnamon sugar and sometimes filled with cajeta, chocolate or cream, are a staple of Mexico City’s street-food scene. They are commonly sold hot at markets, fairs and sidewalk stands.
In Mexico City, one of the most well-known spots for churros is Churrería El Moro, the Mexico City-born chain founded in 1935, which has 17 locations in the capital and now three in Southern California:Costa Mesa, Los Angeles and La Habra.
The Tiger Woods-designed Legacy Club at Diamante is one of several new golf courses set to open in Los Cabos by 2028. (Legacy Club at Diamante)
Los Cabos is the top golf destination in Mexico — indeed, in all of Latin America — with 18 currently operating layouts from a who’s who of famous course designers, ranging from Jack Nicklaus and Tiger Woods to Greg Norman and Tom Fazio. And it continues to burnish its world-class bona fides, with several more high-profile courses in the works, including new designs from Woods (his third at Diamante in Cabo San Lucas) and Fazio (his second at Querencia), as well as the first local effort from four-time major champion Ernie Els, a new 11-hole short course and an expansive renovation at one of the courses that originally helped to establish Los Cabos’ reputation for world-class golf.
RENOVATIONS
One&Only Palmilla Golf Club
After Southern California real estate mogul Don Koll bought the iconic Hotel Palmilla (now One&Only Palmilla) in 1986, he launched Los Cabos as a golf destination in the early 1990s by bringing in Jack Nicklaus — the greatest champion in the game’s history and, by then, already a respected course designer — to craft layouts at Palmilla and Cabo del Sol.
One&Only Palmilla Golf Club is in the midst of expansive golf upgrades, from adding a short course and new practice facilities to renovating existing courses. (One&Only Palmilla Golf Club)
Although the first local course (a modest 9-hole Fonatur layout in San José del Cabo, now Vidanta Golf) would open in 1987, Nicklaus’ attempt to create “Palm Springs by the sea” at Palmilla Golf Club became the first 18-hole test — and the first course of exceptional quality in Los Cabos — when his nine-hole Mountain and Arroyo courses opened in 1993. Another nine, dubbed Ocean, would debut in 1999, bringing the total at Palmilla to 27 holes.
The work currently underway at One&Only Palmilla Golf Club, however, is the most comprehensive in several decades — a “significant investment in the complete transformation of the golf experience at Palmilla,” according to Lloyd Walton, the club’s director of golf.
Upgrades and additions
“We are working alongside Fry/Straka Global Golf Course Design,” he said, “with the objective of respecting the character and legacy of Jack Nicklaus’ original design while comprehensively modernizing the courses, infrastructure and overall golf experience.
“The project includes the transformation of all 18 championship holes across the Mountain and Arroyo courses, including all new premium turfgrass (Tahoma 31 Bermuda grass), completely rebuilt greens to modern USGA specifications, new bunkers and tees, reshaped playing corridors, new cart paths and landscaping, together with a complete replacement of the irrigation and drainage infrastructure. Much of the existing infrastructure, including the irrigation system, dates back to the original development of the golf course more than 30 years ago.
“The Ocean course is also being completely reimagined, creating a new nine-hole Par 3 experience together with an eight-hole short course, adding a completely different dimension to the golf offering at Palmilla. Construction is now underway. During the first phase, the Mountain and Ocean courses are closed, while the Arroyo nine remains open for play. Members can play nine holes or complete the Arroyo twice for an 18-hole experience.”
As part of the extensive renovations for One&Only Palmilla Golf Club members and registered guests at the luxurious One&Only Palmilla resort, the practice facility will also be rebuilt, with target greens and dedicated short-game areas added. The current timeline is for work on the Mountain and Ocean nines, plus the revamped practice facility, to be finished by the end of 2027, with the Arroyo Course completed by the end of 2028.
NEW COURSES
El Once at Palmilla Reserve
The 11-hole El Once short course at Palmilla Reserve (seen in this rendering) is aimed at more relaxed, sociable golf experiences. (Landscapes Unlimited)
This will be the second Par-3 “short course” in Los Cabos. But whereas Tiger Woods Oasis Short Course at Diamante, which opened in 2017, features 12 holes, El Once, as its name suggests, will have but 11.
El Once is being designed by Agustín Pizá, the Mexican course architect best known locally for his redesign of flood-damaged areas of the original Roy Dye-crafted course at the Cabo San Lucas Country Club following Tropical Storm Lidia in 2017.
A signature amenity for Reserve Club Members in upscale communities like Valley Estates, Mountain Residences and The Summit, El Once’s Par-3 pleasures will extend across 1,017 yards on 17 acres at the western end of Palmilla Reserve, with two pins on every green.
“We are reimagining golf with a one-of-a-kind experience with multiple elevated tee areas, target greens and a variety of ways to experience the more casual, social side of golf,” Pizá said. “El Once is the epitome of exciting, ever-changing challenges for every level of golfer, and Landscapes Unlimited is executing construction with trust and precision.”
Phase one of El Once, comprising the first six holes, will open later this year, with the short course in its entirety completed by the end of 2027.
Campo Alto at Querencia
Tom Fazio’s first course design outside the U.S., Campo Bajo at Querencia, was lauded when it opened in 2000, and its stature has only continued to grow in the years since, with Golf Digest ranking it one of the World’s 100 Greatest Golf Courses in 2016.
Fazio has returned in recent years to design another highly anticipated course at Querencia, Campo Alto, which will likewise be playable only by resident members and their guests at the private upscale community near San José del Cabo.
Notable for its elevated ridges, dramatic canyons and stunning vistas — from desert landscapes to the nearby Sea of Cortés — Campo Alto will open soon, with a grand opening event for members planned for Nov. 6.
Oleada Golf Links
The Ernie Els-designed Oleada Golf Links opens later this year on the Pacific Coast of Cabo San Lucas. (Oleada Golf Links)
Set at Oleada, an 860-acre resort and residential development on Cabo San Lucas’ Pacific Coast — between Diamante and Rancho San Lucas (home to Solmar Golf Links) in what, over the past decade, has become a hotbed of world-class golf — El’s Oleada Golf Links will offer the sort of links-style challenges (like exposure to the Pacific Coast’s windy conditions) one might expect of the two-time winner of The Open Championship.
The goal at Oleada is to “build a core golf course that harmonizes with nature,” Els has said. “We envision a compact design that drapes naturally on the land, steps lightly on nature’s toes and functions as an environmental steward of the site’s indigenous flora and fauna. With its rolling dunes, elevation changes and majestic desert-meets-ocean setting, I believe we can produce a versatile test that will rank among the best and most beautiful courses we’ve ever built.”
Preview play at Oleada Golf Links began this summer and the course is scheduled to formally open for limited public play in November, before ultimately becoming a private course for members, albeit with access for guests at on-site resorts like Grand Hyatt Los Cabos, Golf and Spaand Conrad Los Cabos.
The most acclaimed player of his generation, 15-time major champion Tiger Woods transitioned to a new stage of his career when his first completed course as a designer, El Cardonal, premiered at Diamante in Cabo San Lucas in 2014. El Cardonal has since become the site of the only PGA-sponsored tournament in Los Cabos, the World Wide Technology Championship, which returns Nov. 5–8.
But Woods’ impact on Diamante, also home to a superb Davis Love III layout (Dunes Course), was only just beginning. After opening the Oasis Short Course in 2017, he opened a signature restaurant (The Woods Cabo) at the Pacific Coast community in 2023, before beginning work on what may be his most ambitious project yet: The Legacy Course at The Legacy Club.
With membership capped at 250 families, and like all his designs at Diamante (but not his restaurant), private, the Legacy project has been billed by Woods’ TGR Design as “a course that transports golfers from the open desert landscape of southern Baja into a new, secluded environment of lush vegetation—truly an oasis in the desert.”
It’s expected to open by spring of 2027, per Golf Digest.
Chris Sands is a writer and editor for Mexico News Daily, and the former Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best and writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook. He has also contributed to numerous other websites and publications, including The San Diego Union-Tribune, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise and Travel, and Cabo Living.
Sheinbaum questioned the establishment of the academy and the United States' apparent involvement in the project, indicating that her government knows very little about it. (Juan Carlos Ramos Mamahua/Presidencia)
Sheinbaum’s mañanera in 60 seconds
🚓 Sheinbaum questions U.S.-linked police academy in Querétaro: The president indicated that the federal government knows little about the “International Police Training Academy,” whose figurative cornerstone Governor Mauricio Kuri and U.S. Ambassador Ronald Johnson laid Friday. She said such a project can’t exist without federal authorization and that she’d ask the Foreign Ministry to contact both men.
🇧🇷Sheinbaum will wait for Brazil’s runoff before weighing in: Flavio Bolsonaro (47%) and Lula (45%) head to an Oct. 25 second round in Latin America’s most populous country and largest economy. Asked about Mexico being left without allies in Latin America, Sheinbaum said “our main ally is the people of Mexico.”
Why today’s mañanera matters
President Claudia Sheinbaum’s most significant remarks at her Monday morning press conference were those she made about an “international” police academy project in the state of Querétaro.
Her remarks came after Querétaro Governor Mauricio Kuri — a representative of the opposition National Action Party (PAN) — announced in a social media post on Friday that “the cooperation between the United States and Querétaro in the area of specialized police training now has a home in our state: the International Police Training Academy.”
“Today we laid the cornerstone of this space where we will continue the effort we’ve been making for years: investing in the preparation of our police, raising our standards and seeking experiences that allow us to better defend and serve the families of Querétaro. I am enormously grateful to the U.S. government and the Ambassador Ronald Johnson for the collaboration we’ve built and for the trust placed in our state, chosen to establish this international academy, the only one of its kind in Latin America,” Kuri wrote.
Sheinbaum questioned the establishment of the academy and the United States’ apparent involvement in the project. She indicated that her government knows little about the project, and declared that such an academy can’t be established without federal authorization.
Also of note at today’s mañanera were the president’s comments on Sunday’s presidential election in Brazil. Right-wing Senator Flavio Bolsonaro, son of former president Jair Bolsonaro, attracted 47% of the vote, while current President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva had 45% support. As neither garnered majority support, a run-off vote will be held on Oct. 25.
Sheinbaum raises questions about police academy and Querétaro-US collaboration
A reporter asked Sheinbaum about former President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s written remarks about U.S. Ambassador to Mexico Ronald Johnson.
The reporter said that in his new book “Pueblo,” López Obrador “speaks about the intervention [in Mexico] of the [U.S.] Embassy and the security agencies of that country, and “also speaks about the revocation of his son’s [U.S.] visa.”
She said that AMLO wrote that Johnson “is not diplomatic or political, but rather acts like an excited and meddlesome police officer.” The reporter also cited López Obrador as writing that Johnson should be “more level-headed and less arrogant.”
Sheinbaum responded that “as president, I always have to have a diplomatic opinion.”
She subsequently spoke about what she called “a case that caught my attention.”
🚨 Sheinbaum reclama a Kuri por acto con embajador de EU
La presidenta @Claudiashein expresó su molestia porque el gobernador de Querétaro, Mauricio Kuri, invitó al embajador de Estados Unidos a colocar la primera piedra de una academia internacional de capacitación policial sin convocar a la Defensa, al Gabinete de Seguridad federal ni a la SRE. https://t.co/Zd0gY5YwjI
Sheinbaum told reporters that the governor of Querétaro, Mauricio Kuri, invited Johnson to lay the cornerstone of an “International Police Training Academy” in recent days.
She said that the Querétaro government didn’t invite the Mexican military, the federal Security Cabinet or the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to participate in the event.
“The ambassador of the United States was invited. That says something about the U.S. ambassador and the governor of Querétaro,” Sheinbaum said.
“… So far we’ve had a good relationship with the ambassador and he’s helped to resolve various issues we have with the U.S. government, but there are issues where we ask ourselves, why … [aren’t Johnson’s dealings with Mexican authorities] through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs as they should be, as the law establishes,” she said.
She subsequently questioned why Kuri was collaborating with Johnson rather than the federal Security Cabinet on an international academy focused on training police to combat organized crime.
Organized crime-related offenses are “federal crimes,” Sheinbaum emphasized.
“These are examples where I believe the limit between what should be and what shouldn’t be is reached,” she said.
Sheinbaum said she didn’t believe Kuri was committing a crime via his government’s collaboration with the United States, but stressed that it is “very important to show” and “say” what he is doing.
“If we don’t, it becomes something normal, and it’s not normal,” she said.
“… A state government is not directly responsible for [combating] organized crime, they are federal crimes,” Sheinbaum said.
“And secondly, how can a cornerstone be laid by a U.S. ambassador and a Mexican ambassador without the [presence of the] federal [Security] Cabinet? … We honestly can’t understand it,” she said.
The United States and Querétaro Expand Security Cooperation with New State Interdiction Academy. 🇺🇸🇲🇽 #JuntosLogramosMás https://t.co/H4FwKWSoeP
Asked about U.S. involvement in the training of Mexican state police, Sheinbaum responded:
“This cannot be, it mustn’t happen. Any U.S. agency or institution that wants to do training in Mexico for security reasons … has to go through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and [comply] with the [national] security law. … The governor has to explain because he can’t establish an international academy without the authorization of the government of Mexico. … How can there be an international training academy in the state of Querétaro with the ambassador?”
Sheinbaum said she would “obviously” ask the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to contact Johnson and Kuri to ask them about the academy.
Later in the press conference, a different reporter asked the president whether the situation in Querétaro was similar to that in Chihuahua, where in April the CIA allegedly participated in a drug lab raid without the knowledge or authorization of the federal government. Chihuahua is also governed by the PAN, and Governor Maru Campos has faced allegations that she violated the National Security Law by allowing the CIA to operate in the state.
The reporter asked whether Kuri had violated the national security law by collaborating with the U.S. on a police training academy.
“So far, no,” Sheinbaum responded.
“But we have to call it out and we have to say it and we have to talk to him so that he complies with all the requirements in order to have this collaboration [with the U.S.] and also to find out what this international training academy is,” she said.
‘Our main ally is the people of Mexico,’ Sheinbaum says ahead of Brazil runoff vote
Asked about the presidential election in Brazil, Sheinbaum responded, “We have to wait for the second round.”
“We’re going to wait for the second round and once the whole process is finished we can give more of an opinion,” she said.
Asked about the possibility of Mexico being left “without allies in Latin America” (given that right-wing governments are now in office in various countries in the region, including Argentina, Chile and Colombia), Sheinbaum said that “our main ally is the people of Mexico.”
“While we’re close to the people, representing the people and governing for the people, there won’t be any problem,” she said.
The people of Mexico are “our great ally,” Sheinbaum said. “And we’re going to continue working for the people.”
Mexico's navy has deployed 11 coastal sargassum collection vessels, each with a collection capacity of 20 tonnes; one offshore sargassum collection vessel; two amphibious sargassum collection vessels; 18 smaller boats; and 13,230 meters of containment barriers in Isla Mujeres, Benito Juárez, Puerto Morelos, Playa del
Carmen, Cozumel, Tulum and Othón P. Blanco. (Semar/Cuartoscuro)
The beaches in Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo, began October with the return of sargassum, driven by strong winds from the south and southeast and by ocean currents that pushed new seaweed patches toward the coast.
In response, the beach town has deployed cleanup operations along the coast. The Federal Maritime-Terrestrial Zone agency (Zofemat) has a workforce of approximately 300 people dedicated to removing the macroalgae and keeping the beaches accessible to tourists.
David Buchanan, the director of Zofemat Tulum, noted in a recent interview that the sargassum season remains active; however, some relief is in sight.
The head of the Quintana Roo Sargassum Monitoring Network, Esteban Amaro Mauricio, said that the state is entering a seasonal phase of decline following the peak in June and July. This does not mean the threat of sargassum is gone — localized wash-ups are still possible during October — but a progressive reduction is expected heading into November and December.
Satellite monitoring data for Oct. 1, 2026, identified conditions of moderate sargassum landfall in parts of Cancún. In recent days, visitors to area beaches posted footage on Facebook showing full sargassum coverage at Dreams Sapphire Resort but clearer coastlines around Melia Casa Maya and Sandos Playacar resorts.
Sargassum is a floating seaweed that forms vast masses in the Caribbean Sea. When it washes up on the beach in large quantities, it creates an ugly view and produces an unpleasant odor as it decomposes. Its negative impacts on tourism to Mexico’s Riviera Maya have been particularly pronounced in 2026, with hotel occupancy falling to 35% in southern Quintana Roo in September.
This year, total sargassum arrivals are estimated to reach roughly 150,000 tonnes by year’s end, well above the 94,000 tonnes collected in 2025.
Visits to a picturesque Mexican swimming hole are always a fun idea. Here, kids swim in the river at Rancho Ecoturistico Agua Dulce. (John Pint)
A reader asked me for a recommendation on swimming holes in Western Mexico. That set bells of nostalgia ringing in my head as I recalled the very first swimming hole I had ever seen, in the bend of a creek near my grandpa’s farm in Wisconsin. The water was muddy brown and cold, but for me, it was a little piece of heaven.
Below, you will find a few such heavenly holes not far from Guadalajara that — for the moment — have not been “improved” by the addition of concrete and plastic. Visit any of them on a weekday, and you are almost certain to have that heavenly hole all to yourself.
La Selvita (The Little Jungle)
1 of 2
This is about as perfect a swimming hole as you could ever want. The pool is spring-fed, and the water is crystal clear and slightly warm. Its average depth is 5 feet (1.6 meters), meaning you can really swim here, not just soak. In fact, La Selvita covers 3 hectares (7.4 acres), so it is 24 times bigger than an Olympic pool.
Best of all, you are never alone when you jump into La Selvita because you are always in the company of majestic ahuehuetes, “old men of the water.” These are Montezuma bald cypresses — the Mexican national tree — and may range in age from 350 to 500 years old.
Señor Justo Torres, manager of this little park, says the entrance fee is only 60 pesos for adults, and camping can be arranged. Call him at (333) 129-3842. This little gem is located 42 miles (67 kilometers) east of Guadalajara and just 19 miles (30 kilometers) north of Lake Chapala.
Los Azules (The Blue Holes)
The author in the pool beneath Los Azules waterfall no. 2. (Luigi Medina)
Each pool lies at the foot of a picturesque cascade. The water is perfectly clean and pleasantly warm, and you could float on your back for hours just watching the blue and red dragonflies float by.
The falls are located in an impressive canyon at the edge of the town of Tequila, and you can walk to them from your car in 30 minutes. Note, however, that the Machu Picchu-like trail is very steep in places. You need to be fit and wear sturdy hiking shoes.
Head to Tequila, Jalisco, then ask local people for someone who can guide you to Los Azules. Note that GPS reception is not good in the canyon. Go with a local guide.
Primavera Forest natural sites
1 of 2
Sprawling Bosque la Primavera, located just west of Guadalajara, offers you the choice of man-made balnearios as well as a few natural swimming or bathing holes.
Rancho Ecoturístico Agua Dulce (Sweet Water) is named after a cold spring arising from a classic water hole, the source of a beautiful little river perfect for kids to frolic in. It is one of those few places where you can literally drink the water you are bathing in. The rancho also has restrooms, ziplines, ponies and a tower from which you can see for miles.
Soak in the Salty River
1 of 2
If warm, salty water is more your style, bypass Agua Dulce and go to Río Salado, just under a mile (1.3 kilometers) down the road at El Roble, Jalisco, and pick your spot alongside the picturesque river. It is not deep enough for swimming, but rocks in the highly mineralized stream create a Jacuzzi effect that will bubble all your troubles away.
If it is seriously hot water you are after, you are on the right river, but at the wrong end. The northern part of the Río Salado is called Río Caliente, and you have to go through the little town of La Primavera to reach it.
About 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) south of the town, you will come to a large parking lot that can get quite busy on weekends — not to mention during Holy Week, when everyone and their abuelita heads for Río Caliente.
On a typical weekday, there are few people about, and you can take your choice of four pools near the parking lot where the river has been dammed up, each a different degree of “hot.” In some of these, you can actually swim a few meters.
Huaxtla: The cold pools of Jaguar Canyon
Relaxing at one of the pools in Jaguar Canyon near the pueblito of Huaxtla, Jalisco. (John Pint)
Huaxtla is a small town located 14 miles (22 kilometers) due north of Guadalajara. As you drive toward this pueblito, you will skirt Jaguar Canyon, famous for its stupendous waterfalls, most of which fall into delightful pools.
In the past, these could only be appreciated by die-hard canyoneers. Today, thanks to local entrepreneurs, there is an easy-to-reach campground at the edge of the canyon with a well-marked trail leading down to three of the natural swimming holes, each at the base of a waterfall, of course.
The campground has toilets and is a great place to observe stars of both the shooting and more stationary sort. The trail to the pools is 0.6 miles (1 kilometer) long, steep in places and quite scenic.
You will find the water very cold here year-round — perhaps best appreciated in the hot month of May. Note that you should visit this canyon only in the dry season due to the possibility of flash floods.
When you visit one of these still-natural sites, take a picture. Next time you go there, you may find a full-blown balneario instead.
John Pint has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of “A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area” and co-author of “Outdoors in Western Mexico.” More of his writing can be found on his website.
The Fuente de los Coyotes pays homage to Coyoacán’s name, often translated as the “place of the coyotes.” (David Polo/Cuartoscuro)
Who lives here
The Historic Center of Coyoacán comprises several smaller neighborhoods, including Villa Coyoacán, Del Carmen, Santa Catarina and La Concepción. Its bohemian lifestyle attracts young families and artists, while its proximity to UNAM makes it a hub for students. According to government data, 23% of the borough’s inhabitants are between the ages of 25 and 49. There is a notable mix of newcomers and families that have lived here for generations, adding to the area’s eclectic feel.
A litany of colorful characters have lived in Coyoacán’s Historic Center, notably Frida Kahlo, León Trotsky, Octavio Paz and Rufino Tamayo — as well as at least three Mexico News Daily staff members.
A brief history of Coyoacán
The Colhuas of Culhuacan transformed the future Coyoacán into an urban center, settling here in the 7th century. In the 15th century the Tepanecs of Azcapotzalco arrived, displacing the Colhuas and establishing the area as a center of trade, agriculture and commerce. At some point, the settlement acquired its current Nahuatl name, which is most often translated as “place of coyotes.”
Coyoacán’s strategic position on Lake Texcoco caught the attention of the Mexica, who soon seized the area from the Tepanecs. Plazas, residential zones and temples were constructed to the chagrin of the conquered Tepanecs, the majority of whom detested the Mexica. In 1521, Hernán Córtes and his allies launched their campaign against the Mexica Empire, they chose Coyoacán as their headquarters, establishing the town of Villa Coyoacán. A strategic location, abundant agricultural resources and local support made the cultural hub an ideal place to become the first capital of New Spain.
The Chapel of Santa Catarina, the home of one of Coyoacán’s most pleasant plazas. (Santa Catarina/Wikimedia Commons)
Coyocán remained its own municipality until 1857, when it was officially incorporated into the Federal District. It retained its small-town and semi-rural character until sometime in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it was swallowed up by the urban sprawl of what is now Mexico City. The borough of Coyoacán, taking its name from the ancient town, was designated in 1928, and is still the physical heart of Mexico City, sitting dead in the center of the metropolis.
A guide to Coyoacán today
Today, the quaint Barrio Mágico is known for its cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and vibrant cultural scene. The weekends are especially lively. Expect streets lined with food carts selling everything from churros to esquites, live music in Plaza de La Conchita and various amusement park-style rides for the little ones. Don’t miss the neighborhood dance party on Sunday evenings at the Jardin del Arte Allende.
The Saturday art market in Plaza Allende is smaller than its more famous cousin in San Ángel, but still worth checking out if you find yourself in the area.
Coyoacán is great if: You love Spanish colonial architecture, colorful facades, traditional festivals and an authentically Mexican community.
Plaza Hidalgo and Plaza de la Conchita: Two lively squares surrounded by cafes, restaurants, street performers and food carts. The church in the center of the square is said by some to be Mexico’s oldest. The two are linked by Calle Higuera, believed to be the first street laid down by the Spanish during the early days of the conquest. Visit weekend mornings for a chance to jam with unofficial resident band KoolBananas, while enjoying coffee and cake from one of the coffee shops that dot the square.
Jardín Centenario: Home of the famous Coyote Fountain.
Avenida Francisco Sosa: A charming, tree-lined street with colonial-era architecture and art galleries. Attractions include the Casa Alvarado — the last residence of Nobel prize winner Octavio Paz, now home to the National Sound Archive — and some of the best coffee and wine stores in the city.
Viveros de Coyoacán: A 39-hectare park and tree nursery with trails and — you guessed it — trees. Thousands of them. Keep in mind that food is not allowed in the park, and security searches bags at the gate.
Honorable mentions: Though not in the Historic Center proper, any visitor to the borough of Coyoacán should see the Anahuacalli Museum, which houses Diego Rivera’s personal collection of pre-Columbian art, and the central campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2007. The surrounding area is also home to major sports teams, notably soccer giants Club América and rugby titans Coyotes.
Viveros de Coyoacán is the borough’s largest park and an urban oasis in the south of the city. (Mexico City Government)
Mercado de Comida de Coyoacán: Located at the tip of Calle Higuera, on the corner with the main square, visitors can make the most of a genuinely authentic street food market.
Tacos Chupacabras: A legendary taco stand known for its special “Chupa Cabra tacos,” which are a mix of chorizo and carnitas, garnished with various toppings.
Mi Compa Chava: The second branch of chef Salvador Orozco’s Sinaloan-style restaurant is never not packed with seafood lovers. The ambience alone is worth the wait for a table.
Los Danzantes’ Mexico City branch can be found in Coyoacán and is every bit as good as the more illustrious Oaxaca site. (Los Danzantes/Facebook)
Coyoacán hidden gem
The Callejón del Aguacate, or Avocado Alley. Legend has it that in the 1930s, a uniformed soldier was sauntering down this tiny alley when a young boy, captivated by the soldier’s appearance, asked to play with him. The boy was so insistent that the soldier lost his head and killed the boy.
His regret mounted so much that he did what any repentant murderer would do: supervise the construction of a Virgin Mary statue at the site of the child’s death. In this way, all future visitors to the alley could be given the opportunity to clean their sinful slates by offering prayers to the statue. Some say, if you tune in, you can feel the boy’s spirit wandering the alley.
Have we missed any must-see sights in out Coyoacán guide? Let us know down below!
Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.
The unexplained appearance of French acrobats briefly alarmed Guanajuato residents, who still remember what happened when the French "intervened" in Mexico during the 19th century. (This image was generated using AI tools)
GUANAJUATO, Guanajuato — Civic vigilance reached a 160-year high in the historic capital of Guanajuato on Saturday evening after local residents, observing a group of French performers scaling public buildings and suspending high-tension ropes across historic plazas, mistakenly believed the French Republic had launched a third military intervention in Mexico.
Members of the Paris-based Chaillot National Theater, who arrived in the city to perform a collaborative aerial circus piece titled “Vértigo” for the 54th International Cervantino Festival, were met with suspicious glances and immediate defensive maneuvering from municipal historians, local shopkeepers, and neighborhood watch organizers who recalled that previous French arrivals had resulted in imposed monarchies and six-year occupations.
No, France is not attacking Guanajuato from above. Rather, France is the featured guest at this year’s 54th International Cervantino Festival. (Quentin Chevrier)
“We saw men in fitted performance gear deploying cables across Plaza Allende and securing anchor points near the Cervantes Theater,” said local historian and retired educator Don Héctor Morales, who admitted to briefly scouring his cellar for period-appropriate artillery. “Naturally, given the diplomatic history of 1838 and 1862, we assumed the French government was once again attempting to collect unpaid bakery debts or institute an unconstitutional monarchy. It turned out they were just balancing on a wire to live ambient jazz.”
The diplomatic confusion mounted when highliner Jean-Claude Moreau walked across a slackline suspended decades above the cobbled streets, an act interpreted by several onlookers as an attempt to establish aerial dominance over the state’s historic center. Public concern was only eased when municipal officers confirmed that France was merely participating as the festival’s invited guest nation to celebrate 200 years of mostly peaceful diplomatic relations.
The production, which combines contemporary dance, live music, and aerial arts, required local authorities to release a clarification confirming that highliners hanging mid-air were engaged in artistic expression rather than strategic reconnaissance. Organizers assured the public that despite the visible presence of French acrobats hovering near historic architecture, no foreign princes would be installed in Chapultepec Castle as a result of the performance.
El Tri had only one shot on goal against the USMNT in Saturday's friendly. (@miseleccionmx/X)
This one is going to hurt for a while.
El Tri face-planted in the first real test of the Rafa Márquez era, producing a handful of blunders that a grateful U.S. team converted into a 3-0 rout on Saturday night in Arizona.
TRES A CERO IN THE DESERT! 🇺🇸 https://t.co/CI3plLNTrD
Worse than the self-inflicted wounds that left Márquez screaming in frustration, the bloopers by key players might produce significant line-up juggling for Tuesday’s game against Chile.
Multiple errors by goalie Raúl Rangel, fullback Mateo Chávez and defender Diego Campillo might not cost them roster spots for next month’s Concacaf Nations League quarterfinals, but a loss of confidence is surely a possibility.
Mexico pressed forward during the opening 25 minutes, creating three scoring opportunities though failing to get a shot on target.
Then, against the run of play, El Tri was caught napping.
With two Mexico defenders hard against the sideline, U.S. midfielder Gio Reyna charged into the vacated space well ahead of his marker, Orbelín Pineda.
Reyna got deep into the box before sending a low cross that Rangel should have handled. Instead of corralling the ball, the Chivas goalie watched it clank off his right foot and bounce into the path of Julian Hall who, left unmarked by Campillo, simply poked the ball into the net.
Fifteen minutes later, Santi Giménez had a chance to equalize, but was unable to redirect a deflected pass on net from the back side.
Though Mexico enjoyed 60% possession, El Tri went to the locker room trailing 1-0.
Chávez came on to start the second half, but was off-tune from the outset. He turned the ball over the first two times he touched it and was out of position on two other occasions.
In minute 62, Rangel committed a howler. Looking to pass out of the back while outside the goalie box, he passed it straight to Cavan Sullivan and the 17-year-old forward calmly chipped the embarrassed Rangel for a 2-0 lead.
Before Mexico could regain equilibrium, Chávez lost his cool, unnecessarily fouling Yunus Musah before lashing out at Sebastian Berhalter and earning a red card.
Sebastian Berhalter got right in Mateo Chávez’s face after the foul on Musah, refused to back down, and ate a two handed slap that earned Mexico the red.
Some will say he lost control and left his teammates exposed in a rivalry scrap, but that sending-off left El Tri with 10 men and the USMNT closed it out 3-0.
Mateo Chávez should have controlled himself and better still fall to the immediately he was pushed https://t.co/wme6irdsN1
El Tri spent the remaining 23 minutes chasing shadows, but was unable to prevent further damage.
In minute 84, Campillo allowed a back pass to roll into the box while trying to shield the ball from Malik Tillman, but the U.S. midfielder circled him and blasted a left-footer into the net past a helpless Rangel.
After this latest gaffe, cameras caught an exasperated Márquez turning toward the El Tri bench, venting his incredulity that the culprits were players expected to be stalwarts in the run-up to the 2030 World Cup.
Rangel, 26, starred for Mexico during the just-completed World Cup, posting four shutouts, while Chávez, 22, appeared to be the heir apparent at left back, scoring a goal in his only World Cup start (against Czechia). Campillo, 24, is bidding to stake claim to a spot in the defensive rotation.
Soups and stews take center stage as the season changes in Mexico, providing comforting warmth as the weather chills. (Kelsey Todd/Unsplash)
As cold weather sets in across most of the Northern Hemisphere, bringing heavy coats and low temperatures, the seasonal change in Mexico is a subtle shift marked by increasingly chilly mornings and nights alongside mild days.
It might not be cold enough to break out winter coats, but it is chilly enough to whet the appetite for steaming broths, warm tortillas fresh off the comal, and other comforting flavors.
From north to south, here are six dishes from across Mexico to whet your autumn appetite.
From north to south, here are six dishes from across Mexico to whet your autumn appetite. (Mexico News Daily)
Apapacho de mamá – cheese soup
El Mejor Caldo de Queso Estilo Sonora
Hailing from thenorthern cattle-ranching state of Sonora — characterized by freezing winters in its highlands — this cheese soup is a simple yet comforting dish that feels like an apapacho de mamá (“warm hug from mom”).
The broth features tomato, onion, garlic and chiles, into which cubes of queso fresco or regional cheese are added. Unlike other cheese soups around the world, these cheese cubes do not melt — rather, they soften without completely losing their shape. Depending on the specific recipe, the soup may also include potato, zucchini, corn, cilantro and fried tortilla strips for added texture.
Milpa is a pre-Hispanic crop-growing system in which several plants were cultivated together, withmaize as the central element.
Farmers in present-day Puebla, Tlaxcala, Mexico City, Hidalgo and central Mexico overall would prepare a broth incorporating all ingredients of the milpa, primarily corn kernels, onion, squash blossom and chilies.
Following the Spanish conquest, crops grown in the milpa diversified, and chicken broth became the base of the soup.
Today, milpa soup represents an accessible, balanced and nourishing meal that will keep you going through the colder months.
Think of paella, but make it Mexican — that is morisqueta, one of the most cherished dishes of Michoacán’s Tierra Caliente region.
This humble yet classic dish is full of flavor, featuring cooked white rice served with pot-style beans and topped with a red sauce made from tomatoes, chili peppers, onion and garlic. In some households, it is garnished with queso fresco and may also include pork, dried meat and eggs.
Some scholars suggest that its name reflects the cultural syncretism that occurred after the Spanish conquest. It is derived from the Spanish words Moros (Moors) and Cristianos (Christians), referencing the combination of rice — introduced to Spain by the Moors — and beans, which were grown in present-day Mexico.
Birria hastaken the world by storm, with many restaurants abroad featuring birria tacos on their menus. However, few people know that authentic birria is mostly consumed as a soup rather than a taco.
Originally from the western state of Jalisco, birria is a traditional slow-cooked stew served in a deep bowl with its hot broth or consommé, making it more akin to a hearty soup than a taco filling.
The classic version is prepared with goat meat marinated in adobo made from dried chiles, garlic, onion, vinegar, tomato and spices such as cumin, oregano, cloves, pepper and cinnamon.
It is served with warm tortillas and garnished with cilantro, onion and a few drops of lime.
Huevos motuleños is an iconic breakfast dish originally from Motul, Yucatán, a town located in the north-central region of the state.
This heartwarming dish features a fried corn tortilla topped with refried black beans and fried eggs, covered by a warm tomato sauce made from onion, diced ham and peas. It is often garnished with queso fresco and fried plantain.
The combination of ingredients encapsulates Yucatecan cuisine, which is characterized by Caribbean flavors (plantain), pre-Hispanic ingredients (corn) and Spanish elements (eggs and pork).
Although lentils are typically associated withMiddle Eastern dishes, this ancient crop found a place of its own in Mexican cuisine following its introduction during the viceregal era.
In southern Mexico, including the states of Chiapas, Tabasco and Oaxaca, lentils are cooked in a base of tomato, onion and garlic, and may include ingredients such as carrot, potato, chili pepper, epazote or cilantro. It can also be enriched with bacon, smoked pork chop and chorizo, infusing the warm dish with deeper flavors and protein.
In Oaxaca specifically, the soup is garnished with fruit, including southern staples such as plantain and pineapple.
Gabriela Solís is a Mexican lawyer turned full-time writer. She was born and raised in Guadalajara and covers business, culture, lifestyle and travel for Mexico News Daily. You can follow her lifestyle blog Dunas y Palmeras.
