Becoming a kid again: How Mexico has unleashed my inner childhood superhero

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July 6, 2024

Tamanna Bembenek with a baby sea turtle — Tamanna feeling like a kid again releasing a baby turtle in Oaxaca. (Courtesy)

A few weeks ago, someone reached out to me to do a podcast on my “story.” This person profiles leaders in the healthcare industry who are trying to address a big problem or change the world through their innovation.

I was quite intimidated and my first reaction was that I don’t really belong on the list of accomplished leaders he had shared with me, but he convinced me otherwise.

We got talking, the time flew and the recording of the podcast lasted over two hours — he said it was the longest one he has ever done. I told him that I hoped that he had a good editor!

A very memorable part of the podcast was a conversation we had around the concept of fiction vs. non-fiction.

I grew up reading many comic books written by brilliant writers/creators from the U.K., U.S., Belgium and of course, India. Many of them were rooted in exploration, adventure, magical powers, history or folklore. I remember getting completely immersed while reading them over and over again.

My favorite comic book series was based on stories of adventures in Latin America. I remember feeling as if I was being transported back in time with the characters — I was right there with them, discovering the Aztec pyramids and searching for treasures and gems in the caves and caverns of Mexico. My mom would also read me fascinating stories about real-life female heroes like Hellen Keller, Marie Curie, or Amelia Earheart. I think that her objective was that she wanted me to believe that I had unlimited potential as a little girl, no matter what I chose to do.

As I told the podcast interviewer, “it was precisely that ability to imagine, to fantasize, to dream and to aspire that I wanted to get back to when I quit my professional healthcare career and moved to Mexico.”

Above all, I wanted and needed to reclaim those abilities. As an adult, I had lost the ability to play, to create an imaginary world and from time to time, give myself permission to get lost in it. I missed that feeling of child-like optimism, as if there was no limit to my super powers. I wanted to feel again that I could be anything and anyone I wanted to be. As an adult, I longed for that little girl that my adult grown-up version wished for and needed as a friend.

Little did I know that I needed an environment where I could recreate an adult version of comic books from my childhood and transport myself into them — Jumanji style. I loved watercolors when I was a kid, my two favorite colors were fuchsia pink and parrot green; bright and happy colors.

I loved painting nature scenes — mountains, rivers, trees with kids playing in nature together, it felt all very timeless now that I think about it. In my heart, I knew that I needed to be surrounded by colors, plants, plant lovers, and adorable little kids, who would teach me how to slow down time. You could say that I needed a new playground and serendipitously, I chose Mexico.

Allowing myself to be a kid again has not been an easy process for an intense, workaholic, efficient person like me. The most interesting self-discovery I have made is that an essential part of staying optimistic as an adult is to allow yourself to stay curious but playful.

Here are few qualities that I am re-embracing from childhood and my grown-up interpretation of them:

Short-term memory: Forgetting the past, shedding negativity, creating new memories.
Imagination: Experimenting. Dreaming. Enjoying the process of creation without worrying about an outcome: Building a business.
Play: Smiling more often. Fully immerse in the act..gardening, cooking, painting, reading, swimming, talking to friends, watching it rain for hours.
Ignoring noise: Realizing that whatever doesn’t bring me joy or growth is “noise.”
Observing: Less scrolling and less talking. Remembering how to use my other senses. Intuition.
Forgetting time: Not celebrating years in birthdays. The best anti-aging treatment.
Disregarding: The stumbles in life and work and trying again and again. This one has been hard but very satisfying.
Curiosity: Letting go of a scarcity mindset. Being a life-long student.
Love: More hugs and kisses.
Super powers: Believing. Manifesting. Focusing on where I want to go, what I want to be — without looking around.

As an adult, the world feels so heavy in today’s political environment. When I turn on the TV, whether it’s news or Netflix-type shows, what I watch brings a lot of anxiety. It feels like all media platforms are trying to spike my dopamine (related to addiction) or epinephrine (related to flight or fight response).

As a result, I find myself increasingly limiting my consumption to what I find inspiring or relaxing. Sometimes, it is watching cartoons or drawing cartoons. Other times, it is real-life stories of inspiring people — just like what my mom used to read to me. All of this helps me balance my “other” neuromodulators that increase brain health, well-being and overall happiness.

My Mexico life so far has been a delightful reminder that life shouldn’t be all grown-up seriousness all the time.

Who could have imagined that all this time I just needed to channel my inner five-year-old self to dream again? I have rediscovered that there is immense power in play, curiosity, and a healthy dose of believing that “I can be a superhero if I want to!”

So next time you feel the world getting you down, remember, it’s perfectly okay to grab your favorite crayons and dream up a world where you have the most magnificent (and possibly slightly ridiculous) superpower ever.

After all, who wouldn’t want to take on the challenge of a media business in Mexico and in the process attempt to protect the sovereignty and independence of the human brain from being programmed by AI? Now that sounds like something to write a comic book about!

The ultimate guide to the districts of Mexico City

By

Bethany Platanella

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July 6, 2024

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Angel of independence, Mexico City — Mexico City, home to millions. We've all been to Condesa and Roma, but what lies in the other 15 regions of the capital? (Marriot Bonvoy)

The first two times I visited Mexico City, it was known as el defe, or the DF. The third time, which was only about one year later, it was completely rebranded. The DF was now known as CDMX, and everything from those fancy letter signs to pink and white taxis were there to remind you. There were no guides to the sprawling mass back and it’s alcadías back then, and much of Mexico City still remains a mystery to visitors today.

The transformation of Distrito Federal, the nearly 200-year nomenclature for Mexico’s brilliant capital, into CDMX was a move made by Mayor Mancera for several reasons. Politically, it gave the city more autonomy from the Federal Government, preventing overreach such as that of Vincente Fox, who removed Marcelo Ebrard, Secretary of Public Security, from office after an incident that resulted in the death of two police officers. Fox did so without properly consulting the city’s head of government, which was AMLO at the time.

Map of CDMX — The 16 alcaldías that make up the capital. (INEGI)

The new name also served as a marketing move. Bloomberg Associates worked with then-Mayor Mancera and the Tourism Development Fund to showcase Mexico City as one of the world’s leading destinations, using its influence to post the capital at the top of the New York Times’ 52 Places to Visit list in 2016.

Maybe it’s not on top of the Times list today, but it’s still brimming with tourists and positively overflowing with expats, many of whom don’t really know the city outside of five major colonias: Condesa, Roma, Juarez, Polanco, and Centro.

In some ways, it makes sense. World Population Review ranks la CDMX as the 7th most populous city in the world which spreads out 1,485 square kilometers (Read MND’s article Just how big is Mexico City). It’s a confusing megapolis, to say the least, and it takes real commitment to understand it in all its glory.

With that said, I’ve done my best to break la CDMX down into bite-sized pieces. 16 of them, to be exact. As CDMX is, just as DF was, made up of 16 delegations known as alcadías, each of which has its own government body voted in every three years. Within those alcadías are 1,812 colonias (according to Raúl Fregoso Noble, architect and tour guide for ToursenBici) and within those colonias are countless street vendors, cantinas, churches, juice carts, fancy cafes, fancier restaurants, high rises, low rises, and every possible thing in between.

The CDMX of today is just as full of life, food and color as el DF was before it. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro)

Disclaimer: If you plan to visit as many alcadías as possible, please do your due diligence before going! While I’ve included colonias to stay away from, it is not an inclusive list. Areas like Iztapalapa, Xochimilco, Tlalpan, and parts of Cuauhtémoc are not safe and should be avoided, especially at night. We recommended taking a guided tour where possible.

In addition, the number of colonias per alcadía is often disputed. I included the number most repeated in my research.

Álvaro Obregón

Named after a great revolutionary and former president of Mexico, Alcaldía Álvaro Obregón is the third most populated district in Mexico City. It’s a mismatch of oversized, shiny commercial centers and quaint, cobblestone corners. Frida Kalho and Diego Rivera’s house and studio, which is now a museum, is located on the edge of one of these tree-lined streets. The sprawling zone includes colonias San Ángel, Santa Fe (which is also zoned in Alcadía Cuajimalpa de Morelos), and Las Águilas.

How many colonias are in Álvaro Obregón? 258 colonias

What’s the population of Álvaro Obregón? 759,137 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Álvaro Obregón? Shop at the Saturday Bazaar in San Ángel, have authentic sushi at Casa de Cultura Japonesa in Las Águilas, and visit the 16th Century La Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción.

Azcapotzalco

Azcapotcalco, a relatively quiet area on the northwestern fringe of the capital. (Oasis Hoteles)

In Náhuatl, it means anthills. According to traditional beliefs of the Mexica, Quetzalcóatl noticed a considerable population of ants, and soon realized they were guarding an abundance of corn. Like any smart deity, Quetzalcóatl dressed himself in the guise of an ant to bypass a tough security team, steal the corn, and feed the world’s first humans. Inhabitants are known as chintololos, a once-derogatory name given by the Mexica meaning those with “round backsides”.

How many colonias are in Azcapotzalco? 61 colonias, 15 pueblos, 11 barrios

What’s the population of Azcapotzalco? 432,205 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Azcapotzalco? Go for a walk through Parque Tezozómoc in Zona Metropolitana, visit the Casa de Cultura in Centro Azcapotzalco, have a tipple at 100+ year old cantina El Dux de Venecia.

Benito Juárez

The borough was established in 1972 and named after Mexico’s first indigenous president. Within Benito Juárez are familiar colonias such as Napolés, Portales, and Del Valle. The area was once part of Lake Texcoco and the site of numerous islands peppered with settlements and multi-family homes. The lake disappeared at the hands of the conquistadors, but some of the settlements remain, including the Mixcoac archaeological zone.

How many colonias are in Benito Juárez? 56 colonias

What’s the population of Benito Juárez? 434,153 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Benito Juárez? Visit the imposing Hacienda de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad de los Portales, see the Parroquia de Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Mixcoac, and relax with a snack in Parque Hundido.

Coyoacán

Coyoacan square — The cultural history of the capital is writ large in Coyoacán. (Get Your Guide)

Coyoacán has a rich history dating back 25 centuries. Its Nahuatl name means “place of the coyote owners” and is now known largely for figures like Frida Khalo, Diego Rivera, and Leon Trosky. Hernán Cortés founded the first town hall here, likely attracted to its fertile land and lush vegetation. It’s colonial feel entices young families and seniors who gather to danzón in the square.

How many colonias are in Coyoacán? 82 colonias, 9 barrios, 4 pueblos

What’s the population of Coyoacán? 614.447 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Coyoacán? Visit the Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum, see an independent film at Cineteca Nacional, soak in the scene by the coyote fountain at Coyoacán’s Central Plaza.

Cuajimalpa de Morelos

The direct translation of the Nahuatl word from which the name derives is “the place where wood is carved”. Founded by the Tepanacs and eventually conquered by the Spanish, documents show that Spanish soldiers took a respite here after the bloody battle known as La Noche Triste (or Victorious Night, depending on who’s talking).

How many colonias are in Cuajimalpa de Morelos? 39 colonias, 5 pueblos

What’s the population of Cuajimalpa de Morelos? 217,686 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Cuajimalpa de Morelos? Visit the famous Parroquia de San Pedro Apóstol, stop at the ruins of a convent while hiking in Desierto de los Leones National Park, have a fancy meal at La Parque Mexicana in Santa Fe.

Cuauhtémoc

Herein lies the true heart of the city. Make that, the country. Not because the municipality is known for buzzing expat outposts like Roma and Condesa. Not because it’s named after the rather guapo Mexica leader who led the final resistance against the Spanish in the 14th Century. Cuauhtémoc is the past and present political center of the country, from the reign of Tenochtitlan to the days of Claudia Sheinbaum. To spend a day in Centro Historico wouldn’t scratch the surface of things to discover in the historically rich and populous borough, undoubtedly the city’s most visited.

How many colonias are in Cuauhtémoc? 33 colonias

What’s the population of Cuauhtémoc? 545,884 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Cuauhtémoc? Spend hours in the Museum of Templo Mayor, see a folkloric show at The Fine Arts museum (Bellas Artes), and people watch in Condesa’s Parque Mexico.

Colonias to avoid: La Guerrero, Morelos, Centro (off the tourist circuit)

Gustavo A. Madero

It wasn’t until 1931 that the capital’s second biggest municipality was named after the Mexican politician known for both his role in the revolution and for saving his brother, President Francisco I. Madero, from assassination. However, the crown jewel of Gustavo A. Madero is the Basilica of our Lady of Guadalupe, which attracts nearly 10 million pilgrims each year.

How many colonias are there in Gustavo A. Madero? 194 colonias

What’s the population of Gustavo A. Madero? 1,173,351 as of 2020

What are three things to see in Gustavo A. Madero? There’s one, and that’s the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Colonias to avoid: San Felipe de Jesús

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

A very straightforward guide to staying safe in Mexico

By

Sarah DeVries

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July 6, 2024

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natalya-zaritskaya-SIOdjcYotms-unsplash — Staying safe in Mexico is actually very easy and requires little more than common sense. Here are some tips on things to avoid. (Natalya Zaritskaya/Unsplash)

How safe is Mexico? I’ll see your question and raise you one: How safe is your country?

When I first came to Mexico over 20 years ago, people would often ask me things like “Are you sure it’s safe there?” The implication, of course, was that it wasn’t, and that I was a dummy for moving here.

Cinco de Mayo celebrations Puebla — This is not what living in Mexico is really like, needless to say. The United States sometimes feels like it though. (Hilda Ríos/Cuartoscuro)

Nowadays, it doesn’t come up nearly as much. While there’s been quite a bit of violence in Mexico since then, most of it has not been unleashed on tourists. Meanwhile, in my home country, the United States, mass shootings have become horrifyingly common. “Are you scared, going back there?” is now a question I get from Mexicans.

And the answer, I’m sad to say, is yes. You can avoid known narco-infested communities. Avoiding mentally anguished people with easy access to weapons is another story.

Say what you will about Mexico’s security issues. There are plenty of bad guys with guns, it’s true, but they’re worker bees with an agenda. Average citizens looking to hurt members of the general public are mostly absent.

And yet.

The right questions

The better question, in fact, is a different one: What is safe to do in Mexico, and what is not?

With that second, better question in mind, let’s dive in!

What’s not safe

Most of the items below, if you ask me, should be obvious. Still, there are plenty of people who seem to think they have some kind of magic shield. But remember, my friends: vacation does not protect you from harm.

So beware of the following activities:

Trying to buy illegal drugs

A man smoking drugs — Drugs are the easiest way to put yourself in danger in Mexico. (Grav/Unsplash)

This should be a given, right? First, trying to procure drugs will likely put you into contact with certain kinds of people whose radar you do not want to be on. Trust me.

Then there’s the risk of getting caught. Think the police around here will be happy to let you go? True, it’s possible you could buy them off with a bribe, but why take the risk? I don’t know you personally, but I do know that prison in Mexico ain’t the place for you.

Driving on routes known to be patrolled by narcos

Look, it’s not easy to bring your car here anyway, okay? Unless you’re hopping right over the border, come by plane. Use the country’s excellent bus and taxi system while you get your bearings. Once you’re settled in, you can buy a car if you want to.

The main point is this: your status as a foreigner will not protect you. If you get off with “only” a bribe (which would likely be extra high for you), consider yourself lucky.

Taking part in political protests

Parents of Ayotzinapa 43 kidnapping victims protesting at Mexico's senate — Supporting a cause can open expats up to unintended dangers however, so staying away is strongly advised. It is also illegal under the Mexican constitution. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)

There are quite a few activist types that come to Mexico. I get it! I’m one of them.

But there’s something you need to remember. Political “meddling” — that’s the actual wording — by foreigners is prohibited by the Constitution. That includes political protests, so be smart and sit out. There are enough Mexicans to fight for whatever cause you find dear, I promise.

Accepting blame for an accident right away

Car accident — Never admit this was your fault. (Erik Mclean/Unsplash)

Many of us hail from countries where, if something happens, there’s a reasonable expectation of fairness and justice.

Not so in Mexico. In fact, you might notice that legal fees are covered by most vehicle insurance policies here.

When there’s a car accident here, your insurance agency should be the first number you dial. Don’t be surprised if the other party immediately calls various friends and family members to go. Strength — and intimidation — in numbers!

If you accept blame immediately, you are essentially accepting to pay for everything. Legal action is also a possibility, so zip it. Yes, make sure everyone is all right. But do not apologize to anyone; let the insurance adjuster be the one to determine what happened.

Trusting that anyone has your best interest at heart

This sounds cold, I know. And hey, most people are trustworthy. But there will always be people pushing to see how much they can get out of overly-trusting dummies.

So get deals in writing, and do not prepay for any service if you can help it. If materials need to be bought, for example, buy them yourself!

You are not street smart here. You are street-idiotic. That’s not to insult you, but to remind you to accept that in a foreign country you’ll be clueless a lot of the time.

Tips for staying safe

U.S. Embassy CDMX — Keeping a contact for your embassy (like the U.S. Embassy seen here) can be useful in emergency situations. (Wikimedia)

But not all is lost. Knowing that you are in a place where the system is not necessarily on your side, there are some precautions you can take.

Keep your home country embassy’s emergency number on your phone. Your embassy exists, at least in part, to support you. If you get stopped by a uniformed officer, tell them you need to inform your embassy of the situation. Asking for ID is normal; attempting to detain you without reason is not.

Technically, you should also be carrying around your passport and ID card. To be honest, this is not something I do, though I do have clear pictures of both stored on my phone.

But about the number: a friend of mine got out of a scary car accident situation with that call. I personally had bogus claims against me withdrawn when I said I’d need to seek counsel from my embassy. The embassy did not care at all, but the other person didn’t know that. Keep them around! The idea of a foreign embassy getting involved is usually enough of a deterrence if people’s intentions are not 100% pure.

If you’re at a resort or on a packaged tour, don’t stray. Stay with the group. Tourists — especially those who don’t speak Spanish — make for easy prey. Again, most people, like everywhere, are okay. But not speaking the language or understanding the culture makes it easier for the unscrupulous ones to find you.

Mexico isn’t necessarily a scarier place than others. But so many heavenly features can make you forget to keep your guard up. Be safe out there!

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

Who should we thank for the invention of guacamole?

By

Chris Sands

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July 6, 2024

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Let’s not get it twisted: guacamole has always been delicious. It’s also absurdly healthy relative to its pleasing taste, not to mention extraordinarily versatile. It satisfies as a dip, as millions of Super Bowl party revelers know all too well, but it also works as a side dish. Or as a standalone treat. It’s damn near the perfect snack, in other words, although today’s recipes give it a bit more oomph than preferred by its inventors, the ancient Mexica, better known as the Aztecs. This (literally) sacred food has a long and complex history, and guacamole as we know it today used to be something quite different.

Yes, you heard that right. Guacamole is no Juanito-come-lately. It has been around for centuries, with subtle tweaks to its ingredient list over the years serving as a microcosm for the evolution of Mexican culture and cuisine.

A gift from the gods? You bet

Avocado farm — The majority of Mexico’s avocados come from farms in Michoacán and they were believed to have been domesticated almost 4,000 years ago.. (Graciela López Herrera/Cuartoscuro.com)

For two million years during the Pleistocene epoch, avocado seeds were spread by poop from the now-extinct giant ground sloths of the Lestodon family, accounting for their dispersal in the Americas. Yes, this really happened. The first cultivators, however, were likely the Mokaya, a Mesoamerican precursor culture to the Olmec. Thus, although avocados have been avidly consumed in Mexico for at least 10,000 years, they’ve only been domesticated for about 3,800.

Prized by early Mesoamericans for the strength they gave and their powers as an aphrodisiac — the shape of the fruit led to its Nahuatl name, ahuacatl, synonymous with testicle — avocados didn’t become the staple ingredient in guacamole until much later and only via divine intervention.

The Mexica attributed the invention of guacamole to the Feathered Serpent Quetzalcoatl, a Toltec deity adopted as their god of wind and wisdom. According to myth, the god appeared before them in a vision to bestow the blessing. The first versions are thought to have been made sometime between the 14th and 16th centuries, but this cannot be known with any degree of exactitude. For all we know, Qutetzcoatl might have told the Toltecs, too. What is known with certainty is that early versions of the “avocado sauce” — the literal translation of the Nahuatl ahuacamolli — were never made with ingredients we now take for granted, like lime, cilantro and onion.

Those were later additions associated with Spanish colonization after Hernán Cortés and his allies conquered the Mexica capital of Tenochtitlán in 1521. The Mexica made guacamole with only avocado paste, chilis, salt and sometimes tomatoes. No, we don’t know how they ate it. Was it a dip? Or was it perhaps a spread, smeared on a tortilla as some kind of proto-version of avocado toast? The codices don’t say.

How Spanish colonialism changed guacamole’s flavor profile

Spanish colonial woman with an avocado — Like so much of Mexican life, the Spanish conquest profoundly changed the history of guacamole. (Vincente Alban)

Spain’s 300-year rule of Mexico and its other colonies in Asia and the Americas produced a global trade network that, among other developments, created many new foodstuffs. Spain eagerly imported traditional Mexican specialties like chocolate and avocados, even managing to grow the latter in areas of the mother country like Granada and Malaga.

Likewise, fruits like limes were introduced to Mexico, to the everlasting benefit of its cuisine and economy: it’s now the world’s biggest exporter. The two types now most commonly grown, the key lime and Persian lime, were introduced by Spaniards during the 16th century. The addition of lime made guacamole better in two significant ways: first, it gave the dish some flavorful zing, courtesy of its bright acidity. Second, lime is a preservative, helping to delay the browning associated with avocados as it oxidizes.

Like lime, cilantro is another essential element of contemporary Mexican cuisine. It too was introduced during the 16th century. Europe was the likely source, as the herb grows naturally in the southern parts of that continent and Asia. But wherever it came from, its aromatics and herbal flavor blended well with guacamole. Onion likewise proved a good fit, adding some crunchy texture.

As Cortés and his men discovered after landing at Veracruz in 1519, Mexico has its own species of onion, called xonacatl in Nahuatl. However, the Mexica apparently never considered it appropriate as a guacamole ingredient. It was added later, by the Spanish. We can also credit the Spanish for changing ahuacamolli to guacamole, which they did because they couldn’t properly pronounce the Nahuatl version. One sympathizes.

The continuing evolution of guacamole

Even to this day, the traditional molcajete remains the preferred means of preparing guacamole. (Shutterstock)

The ingredients may have changed but the tools to properly prepare and serve guacamole haven’t — at all. The molcajete and tejolote, a mortar made from volcanic rock and its accompanying pestle, remain the preferred utensils, just as they were for the Mexica. There’s no reason to consider alternatives, either. The molcajete is perfect for efficiently mashing up avocados and other ingredients and thoroughly extracting their flavors. And as any owner of this essential culinary aid can attest, these signature flavors become embedded in the porous rock, carrying over to the next batch.

Avocados have been grown in the United States since the 1830s. But guacamole didn’t become popular in the U.S. until as recently as the 1990s, when it emerged, contemporaneous with NAFTA, as a tableside staple at restaurants and a must-have dip for tortilla chips at Super Bowl parties.

In recent years, several new ingredients have been used to spice up recipes in the U.S. I refuse to name them here since these are, let’s face it, insults to real guacamole. But the U.S., personified by California horticulturist Rudolph Hass, did pioneer what is now the dominant type of avocado. Eighty percent of the world’s avocados are now grown from the delicious and nutritious Hass variety, with Mexico their top exporter.

But as far as guacamoles go, the Mexica had the right idea. Keep it simple. And whatever they missed, Mexico’s mestizo culinary heritage has righted, with the addition of lime, cilantro and onion.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Over 300 flights canceled in Cancún and Tulum as Beryl hits Mexico

By

MND Staff

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July 5, 2024

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Cancún beaches taped off on Thursday — The arrival of Hurricane Beryl caused hundreds of flights to be canceled in Cancún. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

The arrival of Hurricane Beryl to the Yucatán Peninsula has interrupted airport operations leading to canceled flights in Cancún and Tulum, Quintana Roo.

Tulum airport suspended all incoming and departing air traffic from Thursday afternoon until noon Sunday. Authorities at the Cancún International Airport made a similar decision a short time later, suspending most operations as of 3:30 p.m. on Thursday afternoon. Cozumel’s international airport also suspended flights to Cancún.

Tulum International Airport authorities met with meteorologists and representatives from local, state and federal governments before making the decision to close the airport.

Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama reported that 284 flights had been canceled as of Thursday night while airlines operating elsewhere in the state of Quintana Roo worked to accommodate passengers with flights affected by Hurricane Beryl.

Lezama urged travelers to verify their flight status before heading to the airport. “Airports do not serve as shelters!” she warned.

In total, 348 flights were canceled Thursday through Saturday, Infobae reported early Friday morning. At the time, the airport still had 174 arrivals and 174 departures on the schedule for those days. Cancún airport officials said on the social platform X that Frontier Airlines, WestJet, United Airlines, Volaris, Air Canada, Aeromexico and Southwest Airlines canceled some or all flights during the time period.

#Beryl makes landfall over the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico as a Category 2 Hurricane with winds of 110 mph (175 km/h) 🌀 pic.twitter.com/S0QoRL71Fr

— Zoom Earth (@zoom_earth) July 5, 2024

Governor Lezama issued a bulletin advising travelers to consult the Aeropuertos del Sureste (ASUR) website for Cancún flight information. ASUR operates nine airports in southeastern Mexico including the Cancún International Airport.

Airlines also issued instructions to travelers with flights affected by Beryl, communicating directly with passengers via social media. Arilines provided affected travelers with contact information in case they needed to adjust their itineraries.

Volaris advised passengers to communicate via WhatsApp at 55 5898 8599 or at the airline’s Facebook page Facebook @viajavolaris. Viva Aerobus passengers can find information at http://bit.ly/46CsWou or at @VivaAerobus on Facebook. Meanwhile, Mexicana asked passengers to keep in touch via X at @MexicanaVuela_.

Travelers were also advised not to go to the airport unless their flights had been confirmed.

Beryl made landfall just north of Tulum on Friday morning as a Category 2 storm with 110 mph winds before weakening to a Category 1 storm. An 11 a.m. update from the U.S. National Hurricane Center said Beryl’s maximum sustained winds had decreased to 85 mph.

Meteorologists expect the storm to emerge in the Gulf of Mexico later Friday. However, heavy rains and intense winds will continue to be a factor on Saturday.

With reports from La Jornada Maya and Infobae

Foreign direct investment in Mexico forecast to increase 8% in 2024

By

MND Staff

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July 5, 2024

1

A Mexican flag flying in Mexico City's business district — FDI and export revenue are both forecast to increase in 2024 as Mexico continues its rise in the global economic rankings. (Moisés Pablo Nava/Cuartoscuro)

Foreign direct investment in Mexico will increase 8% in 2024, according to a forecast by the Mexican Business Council for Foreign Trade, Investment and Technology (COMCE).

Just over US $36 billion in FDI flowed into Mexico last year, a record high.

Aerial shot of exterior of BMW plant in San Luis Potosi, Mexico, an example of a German company that contributed to Mexico FDI. — Foreign direct investment (FDI) in Mexico reached 59% of 2023’s total in Q1 alone, leading experts to forecast higher FDI figures for 2024. (BMW Group)

COMCE, a Mexico City-based private sector organization, predicted on Thursday that FDI will increase to US $39 billion this year.

“This [projected] flow of capital underscores the confidence … of international investors in the economic potential and stability of Mexico, especially within the framework of [company] relocation,” the council said in a statement.

Mexico — the world’s ninth-largest recipient of FDI in 2023 — is already well on its way to achieving the foreign investment level forecast by COMCE.

In the first quarter of 2024, FDI hit a record high of $20.31 billion, according to preliminary Economy Ministry data. The Q1 result is equivalent to 59% of last year’s total.

Seeking to calm concerns over a proposed judicial reform that will be considered by Congress later this year, President-elect Claudia Sheinbaum said last month that investors in Mexico have “nothing to worry about.”

Export revenue also forecast to rise

COMCE also predicted that the value of Mexico’s exports will increase to US $610 billion in 2024. That would be an increase of almost 3% compared to the $593 billion in export revenue Mexico earned last year.

“This [projected] significant increase in exports is due to the dynamism of the manufacturing sector, mainly the automotive and auto parts industry,” COMCE said.

Exports at the Manzanillo port — Mexico’s exports to the U.S. were worth US $206.79 billion in the first five months of the year. (Lloyds)

Mexico is already the top exporter to the United States, and the world’s ninth biggest exporter overall.

In the first five months of the year, Mexico’s exports were worth $250.51 billion, according to national statistics agency INEGI. Over 80% of that revenue came from exports to the United States. U.S. data published this week showed that Mexico shipped products worth $206.79 billion to the U.S. in the first five months of the year, a record for the period.

In 2023, Mexico dethroned China as the top exporter to the United States. Mexico has benefited from a “decoupling” of the world’s two largest economies amid the ongoing China-United States trade war, as well as the relocation of foreign companies to Mexico as part of the nearshoring trend.

COMCE executive vice president Sergio Contreras said Thursday that “we’re witnessing a historic moment for Mexico in the realm of trade and international investment thanks to nearshoring.”

Contreras added that Mexico’s rise in global economic rankings is “a clear sign of the importance of the country as an exporting power and destination for FDI.”

Foreign direct investment in Mexico is expected to continue increasing in the coming years as companies act on investment announcements they have already made.

Beyond the rise in global FDI and export rankings, another sign of the growing importance of Mexico in the global economy is that in 2023, it became the world’s 12th largest economy, according to the International Monetary Fund.

With reports from El Economista and La Jornada

Last month was Mexico’s rainiest June since 1941

By

MND Staff

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July 5, 2024

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Last month, Mexico saw 49% more rainfall than the average for June. (Margarito Pérez Retana/Cuartoscuro)

Mexico had its rainiest June in more than 80 years after seeing six months of below-average rainfall, and the second-driest May ever recorded.

This week, the National Water Commission (Conagua) reported that rainfall in June had replenished many of the country’s major reservoirs, mitigating the worst of the drought conditions in northern Mexico.

A person holds an umbrella in the rain — Rainfall caused by Tropical Storm Alberto helped reduce the rain deficit for the year to 3.3%. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)

The 148.7 mm of rain registered across the country last month is 49% more than the average for June. Conagua said it was the most rainfall recorded in June since 1941.

Conagua also reported that the 664 cubic millimeters of rain dumped on northern Mexico by Tropical Storm Alberto from June 19-23 helped reduce the rain deficit for the year to 3.3%, with regard to the historical yearly average.

The reservoirs in Nuevo León swelled with water such that the floodgates were opened at the La Boca dam allowing the water to flow into the El Cuchillo dam.

The heavy precipitation from Alberto caused severe flooding in Nuevo León and Tamaulipas, as well as in Yucatán and Quintana Roo when it crossed over the peninsula. Tropical Storm Chris brought heavy rains to Veracruz, Puebla and Hidalgo after coming ashore on June 30.

June was particularly gloomy in Mexico City, however, the city did not benefit from the record rainfall. The three main reservoirs that supply drinking water to the capital were still below 30% capacity heading into the final week of June, according to Conagua.

The arrival of Hurricane Beryl in the Yucatán Peninsula and its expected course toward Tamaulipas will ensure that July continues the rainy trend set in June.

Se pronostican #Lluvias puntuales torrenciales en #Campeche, #Yucatán y #QuintanaRoo, y puntuales intensas en #Chiapas y #Tabasco. pic.twitter.com/auMLmyPoOS

— CONAGUA Clima (@conagua_clima) July 5, 2024

Beryl made landfall just south of the resort city of Tulum as a Category 2 hurricane on Friday morning, but quickly weakened to a Category 1 storm. Forecasters expect Beryl to reenter the southwestern Gulf of Mexico Friday night and then move northwestward toward Tamaulipas and southern Texas by the end of the weekend.

Conagua projects that Tamaulipas will receive 300 to 250 mm of rain from the hurricane. The passage of Beryl will also dump 200-250 mm of rain on the states of Chiapas, Yucatán and Quintana Roo; the Gulf coast states of Campeche, Veracruz, Nuevo León will receive 100-150 mm of rain; and San Luis Potosí and Oaxaca should anticipate 100-150 mm as well.

With reports from El Financiero

Hurricane Beryl makes landfall as a Category 2 storm in Tulum

By

MND Staff

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July 5, 2024

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Hurricane Beryl's trajectory on Friday morning — Hurricane Beryl is currently moving inland over the Yucatán Peninsula and is expected to pass north of Mérida this afternoon. (Conagua Clima/X)

Hurricane Beryl made landfall as a Category 2 storm near Tulum, Quintana Roo, early Friday, Mexican authorities said.

No loss of life or hurricane-related injuries had been reported in Mexico by 10 a.m. Mexico City time.

Hurricane Beryl has been downgraded to a Category 1 storm since making landfall, but poses a high risk of storm surge in northeast Yucatán. — Hurricane Beryl has been downgraded to a Category 1 storm since making landfall but poses a high risk of storm surge in northeast Yucatán. (Mara Lezama/X)

The National Meteorological Service (SMN) said that Hurricane Beryl came ashore at 5:05 a.m. north of Tulum. The hurricane had maximum sustained winds of 175 km/h and gusts of up to 220 km/h, the SMN said.

At 9 a.m. Mexico City time, the United States National Hurricane Center (NHC) reported that Beryl was 160 kilometers east-southeast of Progreso, Yucatán, and weakening as it moved further inland over the northeastern Yucatán Peninsula.

However, the NHC warned that dangerous hurricane-force winds, a storm surge and “damaging waves” were “expected over portions of this area for a few more hours.”

Beryl’s maximum sustained winds at 9 a.m. were 140 km/h, making it a Category 1 hurricane. It is moving northwestward at approximately 26 km/hr, the NHC said.

The hurricane is projected to pass north of Mérida later on Friday, with the towns of Motul and Progreso on or near the forecast path. A red “maximum hazard” alert was activated for the entire state of Yucatán.

On Friday night, Beryl is forecast to enter the Gulf of Mexico, where it is expected to regain strength.

“Beryl is expected to emerge over the southwestern Gulf of Mexico tonight and then move northwestward toward northeastern Mexico and southern Texas by the end of the weekend,” the NHC said.

Quintana Roo Governor Mara Lezama said on X at 9:15 a.m. that no loss or life or major damage had been reported in the Caribbean coast state.

🔴 URGENTE: El #HuracanBerly🌀 ha tocado tierra en las costas de #QuintanaRoo🇲🇽 como categoría 2. #Beryl registra fuertes vientos🎐y lluvia intensa⛈️ en #Tulum, #FelipeCarrilloPuerto y #Cancún. Seguirá su trayectoria por la #PenínsuladeYucatán hasta salir al #GolfodeMèxico. pic.twitter.com/tUTeZJJ2h3

— Carlos Lara Moreno (@CarlosLaraM81) July 5, 2024

Social media users and journalists shared videos on the social platform X as the storm approached the Carribbean coast. (X)

At President Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s morning press conference, National Civil Protection Chief Laura Velázquez also said that no deaths or injuries had been reported. However, she stressed that the information was “preliminary.”

Lezama said that authorities were commencing “the assistance phase” and preparing “to go out to help the people who need help.”

More than 8,000 soldiers, Air Force members and National Guard personnel were deployed to respond to the hurricane.

Lezama said that winds brought by Beryl had downed trees, utility poles and “some structures.”

Some flooding has also been reported.

Tulum and Felipe Carillo Puerto were among the worst affected municipalities in Quintana Roo. Blackouts have been reported in parts of the state, including in Tulum and on the islands of Cozumel and Isla Mujeres.

More than 2,000 Quintana Roo residents went to temporary shelters well before Beryl made landfall.

#Beryl is now headed for the Yucatán Peninsula and is likely to make landfall in the vicinity of Tulum early on Friday (July 5) as a Category 2 Hurricane.

Beryl could restrengthen in the Gulf of Mexico thereafter, striking Tamaulipas, Mexico, or South Texas this weekend. pic.twitter.com/dljuWLuVWU

— Zoom Earth (@zoom_earth) July 4, 2024

The SMN said that Beryl would cause “torrential” rainfall of 150-250 mm in the states of Quintana Roo, Yucatán and Campeche, and “intense” rainfall of 75-150 mm in Chiapas and Tabasco. It also warned of the risk of lightning, strong winds and high seas.

“Due to the risk of landslides, flooding and the rising of rivers in Chiapas and Tabasco, the public is advised to take precautions,” the SMN said.

Beryl is the second named storm of the 2024 Atlantic hurricane season, and became the first Category 5 storm ever to form in the Atlantic Ocean in the month of June.

It made landfall Monday on Carriacou, a small island that is part of the country of Grenada. The hurricane has claimed at least seven lives in Venezuela and Caribbean nations.

Beryl is the third named Atlantic storm to affect Mexico this hurricane season.

Tropical Storm Alberto brought torrential rains across large swaths of the Yucatán Peninsula and northeastern Mexico in June, while Tropical Storm Chris made landfall in the municipality of Vega de Alatorre, Veracruz, earlier this week.

With reports from N+, Reforma and El Universal

Police deployed to protect Poseidon statue that ‘angered’ a Maya god in Yucatán

By

MND Staff

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July 5, 2024

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An offbeat and humorous byproduct of Hurricane Beryl’s approach toward the Yucatán Peninsula involves a new statue of Poseidon in the surf just off the coastal town of Progreso — and a viral “plea” that prompted the police to start guarding it.

In an event posting on Facebook, user Angel Toledo wrote that the statue’s installation in late May to promote tourism had angered the Maya god Chaac. A follow-up post on TikTok that went viral explained that Chaac’s ire was why the area has been pounded by historically heavy rains from tropical storms Alberto and Chris and is now threatened by the onrushing Beryl.

Organizers of the event stated that the statue of Poseidon — the god of ancient Greek mythology who is “king of the seas” — must go. They even set a removal date of July 15.

This would apparently appease Chaac, the Maya god of rain who strikes the cloud with his lightning ax to produce thunder and rainstorms.

The listing and the hundreds of reactions, memes and follow-ups on social media picked up steam, with many going viral.

And the calls — tongue-in-cheek or not — to tear down the striking 3-meter tall statue grew even louder during the Beryl storm watch.

A Facebook screenshot showing a photo of the Poseidon statue in Progreso, Yucatán, and the event title "Ir a destruir la estatua de Poseidón." — A Facebook event titled “Go destroy the statue of Poseidon” alarmed authorities in Progreso, Yucatán, where the statue is located. (Facebook)

Then, starting on Wednesday, members of the Ecological Police of Progreso began guarding strategic points near the Poseidon statue in order to make sure no mishaps occurred.

A day earlier, a picture posted on the social media network X showed the statue of Poseidon seemingly split in half at the torso, lying in the sand. That gave rise to the theory that people hoping to thwart the arrival of Beryl had already torn down the statue — causing even more of a stir.

Much of this social media activity seemed to be occurring in good humor, but it did prompt widespread coverage from Mexican newspapers and TV stations.

The organizers of the Facebook event have since confirmed that they meant everything as a joke. Though 6,600 people responded that they would attend and 30,200 clicked on “interested,” the event listing is now marked as canceled, with an updated remark:

“Message to the community: Thank you for your support really it was fun to see that so many people took it as a good joke and we were able to reach 35,000 people in just a few hours I did not expect it and be on 3 local news shows but I have received many hateful comments and people threatening and I don’t want it to get out of control tqm to all of you who had fun.”

TQM is Mexican text-speak for te quiero mucho, which in this case expresses affection for everyone who got a good laugh out of the situation.

The statue is located about five meters into the sea in front of the Malecón Internacional de Progreso, a popular beach destination about a 45-minute drive from Yucatán state capital of Mérida.

“Meet the new icon of Progreso!” Turismo Yucatán posted on X last month. “Have you taken a photo with him yet?”

Made of fiberglass, the statue was an initiative of the Progreso City Council to attract tourism. However, from the very start, it generated controversy, with some people expressing anger that it did not represent Maya culture.

With reports from Por Esto, Infobae, La Jornada Maya and The Yucatan Times

Why Holbox is Mexico’s perfect island paradise

By

Stewart Merritt

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July 5, 2024

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Isla Holbox — The quiet island of Holbox offers tranquility, nature and comfort to visitors. The sleepy sandbar has garnered a reputation for sustainable tourism and is untouched by the commercial development that has plagued the rest of Quintana Roo. (Rosie Buller)

A thin strip of sand on the northern tip of the Yucatán peninsula, Holbox is an attractive draw for the traveler looking for a Caribbean paradise free of the tourist hordes of Cancún and Tulúm. While the island is certainly geared toward tourism, the scale of the operation here is such that you feel like you are a somewhat discreet traveler, someone in-the-know and perhaps more enlightened than those masses lined up in front of Señor Frogs in Cancún. Travel guides to Holbox are still quite rare, and the island still has the feel of the Mexico of 30 years ago.

This is an island with outstanding natural beauty, a marrow-deep chill, superlative dining options, and a range of accommodations for the eco-minded traveler. The following is an account of some of the best places I stayed and ate over the course of a recent trip with my fiancé.

The underdeveloped island – which has no proper roads – is a paradise for those looking to get back to basics. (Rosie Buller)

Getting to Holbox

Should you decide to come via bus, ADO has comfortable daily service from Cancún and Mérida to Chiquilá. If you want to get to Holbox as quickly as possible and in style, there is a small airport on the island, and Holbox Air offers private charters on small Cessna and Piper planes to destinations around the Yucatán peninsula.

If you choose to drive, Highway 180D from Cancún or Mérida is a smooth trip, though one that perhaps feels longer for its flat terrain and utter lack of landmarks or scenery. Once you turn off towards the port town of Chiquilá, beware the final stretch of Highway 5, as it is littered with bathtub-sized potholes capable of doing serious damage to your car (or, worse, your relationship). I can still hear my fiancé’s “Cuidado! Watch the road!” reverberating in my ears.

Any travel-related discord is soon forgotten, however, once you arrive in Chiquilá and board a ferry. Two ferry services leave every 30 minutes, both fast and cheap, offering outdoor seating that gives that tingling anticipation feeling as the island comes closer into view.

Once you arrive on the island, a line of golf cart taxis will be waiting to take you to your destination, with fixed rates depending on where you’re headed. Not only are the golf carts a fun reminder you are no longer on the mainland, but taxis on Holbox have virtually none of the pushy salesmanship you see in other, more commercialized areas of the Yucatán region.

Where to stay on Holbox

Casa Cat Ba hotel in Holbox — Don’t let the lack of commercialization fool you, though; Holbox has plenty of luxurious hotels for travellers who want some comfort. (Casa Cat Ba/Tripadvisor)

That fact is reflective of a larger reality: for an island whose main source of revenue is tourism, Holbox is mercifully free of the commercial, one-size-fits-all mass tourism found in other popular resort areas. Instead of giant high-rise hotels, the traveler has options that run from funky hostels to chic boutiques to small, five-star beachside resorts. In order to get a feel for the range of accommodation on offer, we decided to try a sample of all three.

There are many reasons why staying in a hostel is a great travel option affordability, ease of making friends, the communal vibe. Hostel Tribu checks every box. The hostel sits one block off the beach and features a charmingly funky design, group activities ranging from full moon kayak excursions to twerk classes, open mics on the second-floor bar, and a restaurant serving inspired fusion cuisine. Owner Davide Coggi creates a welcoming atmosphere and — importantly for an island business — has committed to reducing the hostel’s waste with an innovative composting program.

Perched on the sand, Casa Cat Ba is a small boutique hotel with a familial atmosphere and gorgeously decorated rooms and common spaces. Each of the six rooms has a balcony with a view west over the sea, perfect for watching the sunset turn the clouds from popcorn puffs to a color closer to the pink of Holbox’s flamingos. Take it in with a passion fruit mezcalita in your hand.

Beyond the gorgeous setting and the comfort of the rooms what stands out about Casa Cat Ba is the easy-going, charismatic hospitality of the staff. Hotel manager Ivette told me she hopes guests “feel like family from the moment they arrive” and leave feeling like the place is a “home away from home” — true on both counts in our case. For the eco-minded traveler, Casa Cat Ba is a smart option as well, as they display a commitment to mitigating their impact on the island’s fragile ecosystem, with as close to zero waste operation as can be imagined. Oh, and the breakfasts were fresh and varied every morning. Eating the best avocado toast of your life as the sun rises over the Caribbean is a moment you won’t soon forget.

Holbox sunrise — Sunrise and sunsets on Holbox are a dream. (Rosie Buller)

We stayed three nights in Casa Cat Ba and were sad to leave, but our next stop proved to be a delight: Las Hamacas Club de Playa on the eastern edge of the main beach. This is the spot to go if you want a bit more privacy from the bustle of downtown Holbox. The small resort is everything you could want in a dreamy escape, with an attentive smiling staff, spacious rooms with modern amenities and private balconies with a view of the sea. There is a large pool for guests only, with a swim up bar serving some of the finest cocktails on the island. The restaurant has both spectacular views and serves contemporary seafood and grill cuisine. A sand bar just off the shoreline makes for a picturesque spot to catch the sunset, as the numerous selfie stick wielding influencers can attest.

On our last night on the island, we thought we’d try something romantic for dinner. We asked around town for a good date night spot, and the locals told us to go to Parador 33, a cozy, open-air spot tucked away from the bustle of the main street.

Dinner on Holbox is also as good as you might expect, with restaurants like Parada 33 offering delicious food and wine options. (Holbox Travel)

Here, the mood was familial, with barefoot kids mingling with the stray cats underfoot, and yet it remained intimate with low lighting, the best wine list we saw on the island, and an innovative menu. A highlight was the steak, cooked in an outer shell of rosemary-tinged dough which, cracked open tableside, revealed a tender cut of meat. A glass of malbec was the perfect pairing here.

For some, lying on the beach all day and watching the sunset is what vacation is all about. For the more active-minded traveler, the island has a range of activities. A dominant westerly wind means kiteboarding is an option, and there are a plethora of schools for lessons and rental gear. The yearly whale shark season attracts visitors who wish to see these giant fish up close. Personally, we swam great distances every morning, following the current east to west along a string of buoys a half kilometer offshore.

The end of a trip can be a jarring experience. For us, it was an alarm clock blasting us into get-away-day reality at 6 a.m., the somber shuffle out of our room at Las Hamacas, the waiting golf cart cab. As we bounced through the sand streets on the way to the ferry we watched the sunrise over the sea, not a trace of wind over the glassy surface. As we were dragged into the nagging concerns of the mainland — getting the car out of the parking, the coming highway tolls, the potholes — the mind couldn’t help but try to stay in the moment, enjoying the last view of the island’s beauty.

Stewart Merritt is a professor and freelance writer based in Mérida. A native of California, he has been visiting Mexico his entire life, especially the Pacific coast, where he likes to surf. This summer he will marry his Yucatecan fiancé.