Mexican farmworkers have for decades had to risk their health by working with toxic chemicals. This week's decree banning 35 of those compounds is a step in the right direction, according to Agriculture Minister Julio Berdegué.
(Juan José Estrada Serafin/Cuartoscuro)
More than half a century after it was banned by most countries worldwide, Mexico has finally prohibited the use of the notoriously dangerous pesticide known as DDT.
A federal government decree issued this month banned the use, production, marketing and importation of DDT and 34 other highly hazardous pesticides. It is Mexico’s largest pesticide restriction in more than 30 years and is the result of a coordinated effort among several cabinet-level ministries, including Agriculture, Health, Economy and Environment.
Agriculture Minister Julio Berdegué announced Mexico’s banning of 35 more pesticides, including DDT, at one of President Sheinbaum’s morning press conferences last week. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
By restricting all stages of the production chain for these compounds, the decree aligns Mexico with the Basel, Rotterdam, and Stockholm international conventions.
“The decision is part of a larger strategy to achieve a much cleaner, more sustainable, and safer agriculture for the country’s producers, farmworkers, and consumers,” Agriculture Minister Julio Berdegué said during the announcement.
He added that the last comparable restriction dates back to 1991, when 21 substancess were banned.
The prohibited pesticides include aldicarb, used on sugarcane and citrus fruits and which can persist in drinking water; carbofuran, applied to coffee, cotton, and avocado crops, and considered one of the most dangerous insecticides in the world; and endosulfan, which has serious effects on fetal and infant development and has been detected in the environment and breast milk. All three substances are carcinogenic and affect the nervous system.
However, one pesticide that has been allowed in Mexico until now is DDT.
“A Ripley’s tale,” Berdegué said. “Incredibly, the production or use of DDT [had not been] banned in Mexico. Who knows how that was possible?”
DDT (Dichloro–Diphenyl-Trichloroethane) was once considered a miracle substance for its potency and low cost. But its serious environmental and human health impacts eventually reduced its acceptance, especially after the publication of biologist Rachel Carson’s “Silent Spring” in 1962. By the 1970s, DDT was banned in the U.S. Most other countries eventually followed.
The new ban in Mexico includes the cancellation of permits and the refraining from granting new authorizations related to DDT and the other prohibited chemicals, initiating a transition to less toxic alternatives over the next five years. However, it is not yet clear when the substitutes will be available.
A lack of alternatives has prevented action against toxic chemicals in Mexico’s past.
“There’s a lot of research around the world looking for substitutes,” Berdegué said. ”That’s of interest to many other nations, not just Mexico, so I have a lot of faith that over the course of time — I can’t say how long — there will be products available in Mexico.”
Grupo Enal has partnered with the state-owned oil company Pemex to increase production, as well as invest in renewable energy, with a focus on Mexico’s geothermal assets. (Wikimedia Commons)
Business giant Carlos Slim’s energy company was granted a permit to develop an $80 million geothermal energy facility on Sept. 1, as the firm expands its position in Mexico’s energy market.
Energías Alternas, Estudios y Proyectos (Grupo Enal), a subsidiary of Slim’s Grupo Carso, has been granted a 30-year concession to develop geothermal resources for electricity generation in Celaya, in the Bajío state of Guanajuato. The Celaya plant is expected to have an installed capacity of 26 megawatts.
“The purpose of the concession title is to grant the Concessionaire the right to use, exploit and exclusively exploit the Celaya Geothermal Area… for the purpose of generating electricity, as well as allocating the geothermal resource to various uses,” reads the title published in the federal government’s Official Gazette on Sept. 1.
New regulations granted under Mexico’s energy reform, which was approved by Congress in March, allow the Energy Ministry (Sener) to issue permits and grant concession titles for geothermal energy exploration.
Under the reform’s Geothermal Law, Sener can now directly award titles without the need for bidding, a significant change from the previous system that favored competition between companies.
Carlos Slim was in attendance at President Claudia Sheinbaum’s presentation of her first annual government report last week. (Moisés Pablo/Cuartoscuro)
The change is expected to enhance access to concessions for private companies and is aimed at accelerating the development of Mexico’s renewable energy resources in line with the government’s target of adding electricity generation and spurring greater energy diversification.
Grupo Enal has expanded its position in Mexico’s energy sector in recent years, both in electricity and hydrocarbons. The firm has partnered with the state-owned oil company Pemex to increase production, as well as invest in renewable energy, with a focus on Mexico’s geothermal assets.
In April, GSM-Bronco, another Grupo Carso subsidiary, won a bid to drill three exploratory geothermal wells in the border state of Baja California, beating competitors such as Weatherford with its US $45 million winning bid.
El Califa de León makes just four kinds of tacos using only salt and lime, but that's enough to earn it a Michelin star and turn the modest taquería into an international sensation. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro.com)
Diners are lining up in Tucson, Arizona, this month for what is billed as a once-in-a-lifetime chance: eating tacos from the world’s only Michelin-starred taqueria, El Califa de León of Mexico City.
Chef and owner Mario Hernández has taken his El Califa de León to more than half a dozen U.S. cities, “popping up” in existing eateries to offer locals the experience of a traditional Mexico City taquería. (@sabio28/onX)
The event, a collaboration with Arizona-based travel app GrinGO and a local restaurant, is scheduled to run through Sunday, Sept. 14.
Located in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhoodsince 1968, El Califa de León is the only taqueria (or taco stand) to ever receive a coveted star from Michelin.
The tiny, stand-up eatery — which offers only four types of tacos, each with thinly sliced meat and salsa on house-made tortillas — is known for its “gaonera” taco, thin slices of beef filet cooked to order with just lime and salt.
“For 56 years, El Califa de León in Mexico City has been considered a coveted taqueria and best kept local secret,” GrinGO founder Brian Krupski said in a statement. “We’re excited to bring the taste of Mexico City back to Arizona.”
And last October, El Califa de León offered tacos during a one-night pop-up at a Manhattan location of Tacombi, a restaurant chain founded in Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo, and now primarily based in New York. For two weeks afterward, the tacos were available at all Tacombi locations in New York and five other states.
(For that particular collaboration, Tacombi provided its Vista Hermosa brand tortillas and the meat was supplied by Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors. But the tacos offered were El Califa’s standbys: beef filet, steak, beef rib and pork loin.)
According to the Mexican newspaper El Economista, the name of the restaurant will be Auténtica de San Cosme, a tribute to the CDMX location on Ribera de San Cosme Avenue. Though there is no location yet, a website is live at Autenticatacos.com.
“The Michelin award has allowed us to grow and make presentations in different places, including the United States,” Hernández said, all the while clarifying that the original El Califa de León is not moving or closing down.
“Receiving the Michelin star has been one of the greatest honors of my life,” he added. “But beyond the recognition, it comes with a profound responsibility: to honor and elevate one of the most iconic treasures of Mexico — a taco made with true craftsmanship, heart and respect for tradition.”
The crash occurred on the Atlacomulco–Maravatío federal highway in the México state municipality of Atlacomulco, located about 120 kilometers northwest of Mexico City. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)
Ten people were killed and 41 others were injured when a freight train slammed into a double-decker passenger bus in México state on Monday morning, the México state Civil Protection chief said.
The crash occurred on the Atlacomulco–Maravatío federal highway in the México state municipality of Atlacomulco, located about 120 kilometers northwest of Mexico City.
The train was operated by Canadian Pacific Kansas City de México (CPKC de México) and was reportedly transporting cars to northern Mexico.
México state Civil Protection chief Adrián Hernández said in an interview that 10 people were killed and 41 others were injured in the accident. At least six of those who died were women, according to the newspaper Reforma.
The death toll was adjusted upward from a preliminary report of eight fatalities. The roof of the bus was torn off in the accident.
Hernández said he had been informed that the driver of the bus was arrested. The condition of the driver was not immediately clear.
Emergency services responded to the accident and the injured were taken to various México state hospitals. Some were reported to be in serious condition.
The bus was en route to Mexico City, according to an official from the Canapat transport association in México state.
“[The victims] are workers going to Mexico City,” Odilón López Nava told the newspaper El Financiero.
CPKC de México acknowledged the “terrible accident” in a statement, saying that the passenger bus was attempting to “beat” the train across the tracks.
“CPKC de México regrets the deaths and expresses its deepest condolences to the families,” the company said, adding that its officials were collaborating with authorities at the scene of the accident and would provide “all the information necessary” for the corresponding investigation.
The march for peace was organized by some three dozen civil society organizations, including the Culiacán branch of the Mexican Employers Federation (Coparmex) and a group called Ciudadanos Unidos (Citizens United). (José Betanzos Zaraté/Cuartoscuro)
Tens of thousands of people took to the streets of Culiacán, Sinaloa, on Sunday to call for peace in the city and northern state amid an unrelenting wave of cartel violence.
The march for peace in the Sinaloa state capital took place almost a year after the escalation of a long-running dispute between rival factions of the Sinaloa Cartel, namely Los Chapitos and Los Mayos.
The cartel battle has generated immense fear among residents of Culiacán and other parts of Sinaloa, leaving many afraid to leave their homes. The bloody conflict has had a devastating impact on many businesses, causing extensive economic and job losses.
On Sunday, tens of thousands of those people marched along Álvaro Obregón Avenue in Culiacán to demand greater action from authorities to quell the violence. According to some media reports, more than 50,000 people participated in the protest. The organizers cited a more modest, but still large, figure of 20,000.
‘Enough! We want peace’
The march for peace was organized by some three dozen civil society organizations, including the Culiacán branch of the Mexican Employers Federation (Coparmex) and a group called Ciudadanos Unidos (Citizens United).
“Enough! We want peace,” said a flyer that circulated on social media to promote the march. The same message appeared on huge banners carried by protesters, who marched from a Catholic church known as La Lomita to the Culiacán Cathedral.
Mostly dressed in white, the marchers included business owners, lawyers, politicians, doctors, nurses, children and madres buscadoras (searching mothers), women whose lives were turned upside down by the disappearance of their children.
In addition to calling for peace and greater action from authorities, marchers demanded the resignation of Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha Moya, a representative of the ruling Morena party. (José Betanzos Zaraté/Cuartoscuro)
Among the messages they sent to authorities — and cartel members — were: “The narco does not rule, Sinaloa is ours”; “Enough, we demand peace”; “Culiacán is rising up, violence won’t defeat us”; and “There are more of us good guys.”
A boy walking under the hot Culiacán sun declared that “children deserve to live without violence,” according to a report by the newspaper Reforma.
“My voice is small, but my right to peace is big,” read a placard carried by one child, the newspaper Milenio reported.
“We want to be able to go outside to play without fear,” declared a 10-year-old boy, according to the news magazine Proceso.
In addition to calling for peace and greater action from authorities, marchers demanded the resignation of Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha Moya, a representative of the ruling Morena party.
“¡Fuera Rocha!” (Rocha out!) was another of the chants heard during Sunday’s march.
“We demand greater intervention from the government of Mexico in light of the absence of action from Governor Rocha Moya to achieve peace and guarantee security in the state,” said Coparmex Culiacán president Martha Reyes Zazueta.
Protesters also criticized the efforts of Culiacán Mayor Juan de Dios Gámez Mendívil to combat violence in the state capital.
Although more than 10,000 members of federal security forces, including the National Guard and the army, have been deployed to Sinaloa, many residents believe that the Mexican government needs to take stronger action to combat the relentless violence. In the 12 months to August, homicides increased 265% in Sinaloa compared to the previous year, and the incidence of various other crimes also went up.
“We cannot get used to living among bullets,” said Víctor Manuel Aispuro, principal of a Culiacán primary school attended by two children who were shot and killed along with their father in January.
Peace march participants hold up a large disappearance notice along with a sign that says, “Edwin Alfredo, we’re waiting for you to come home. Not with the kids!” (José Betanzos Zaraté/Cuartoscuro)
Around 40 children have been murdered in Sinaloa over the past year, including at least 15 who were collateral damage, Milenio reported.
‘Each step is a plea for peace’
Before the march began, Culiacán Bishop Jesús José Herrera Quiñonez addressed the people gathered at La Lomita, officially called the Parish Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
“We have gathered because for a year we have been experiencing these events that fill us with pain and uncertainty in our city of Culiacán,” he said.
“Evil does not have the last word, because the love of God is stronger than violence, and that is something we have to understand,” Herrera said.
“Our march today is prayer in motion, each step is a plea for peace, each of our cries is a cry of hope, each person’s presence is testimony that we do not resign ourselves to living under the shadow of fear. We walk together because we know that peace is not a distant dream, but an urgent task that God places in our hands,” he said.
An economic crisis
According to Óscar Sánchez, leader of a Culiacán business association, some 2,000 businesses have shut due to reasons related to violence and insecurity. He said that 40,000 jobs have been lost, while the economic losses of affected businesses are as high as 20 billion pesos (almost US $1.1 billion).
Protesters on Sunday called on the federal government to take steps to ease the economic crisis in Culiacán and other parts of Sinaloa. Among the measures they asked for were tax relief, a suspension of electricity bills and the provision of loans to help businesses get back on their feet and thus reactivate the Sinaloa economy.
The seizure of a petroleum tanker in the Gulf Coast port of Tampico in March led to the arrests announced on Sunday. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)
A major crackdown on the illegal fuel trade has resulted in the arrest of 14 people in Mexico, with more actions expected to follow as the investigation continues.
Among those detained were customs employees, businessmen and six members of the military, including a vice admiral.
Attorney General Alejandro Gertz and Security Minister Omar García Harfuch announced the apprehensions on Sunday, with Gertz adding that additional arrests were forthcoming, potentially including government officials.
The tanker, Challenge Procyon, was carrying diesel on which a special import tax was due, but the cargo was declared to customs as a petrochemical exempt from the tax.
This seizure, one of the largest in recent history, prompted a series of investigative and intelligence efforts that revealed part of the criminal structure behind these activities, Gertz said during a press conference.
Fuel theft — or huachicol, as it is known in Mexico — has cost the state-owned oil company Pemex US $3.8 billion in the past five years, according to The Associated Press.
In May, Anti-Corruption and Good Government Minister Raquel Buenrostro said that “each unloading” of a shipment of fuel for which the IEPS — Special Tax on Production and Services — is not paid costs the government around 1 billion pesos (US $51.7 million).
Mexican security analyst David Saucedo told The Associated Press that the investigation indicates that illegal networks profiting from fuel theft benefit from “wide levels of corruption in Mexico’s government and businesses.”
“Huachicol networks require a level of political, military and police protection,” Saucedo said, adding that recent pressure from U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio is largely responsible for the recent aggressive crackdown.
Gertz and García Harfuch on Sunday maintained the sailors arrested represented “isolated cases” within the Navy and dodged questions about the depth of the fuel theft networks within the government.
U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio, who met with President Sheinbaum last week, reportedly put pressure on Mexico to crack down on fuel theft, which has served to line the pockets of organized crime. (Mario Jasso/Cuartoscuro)
Also arrested was Francisco Javier Antonio Martínez, the former director of Customs in Matamoros (2017-2018), who, in 2024, was placed in charge of administration and financial management at the port of Tampico.
The case against Martínez took shape when his business relationship with the owners of Intanza, a company found complicit in the March bust in Tampico, became public knowledge.
The World Archery Championship kicked off Sept. 5 and will run through Sept. 12 in Gwangju, South Korea. (Conade/X)
Mexico made history on Sunday after winning its first-ever gold medal at the World Archery Championships.
The women’s team, made up of Maya Becerra, Mariana Bernal and Adriana Castillo, secured the victory after triumphing over the United States in the final, held in Gwangju, South Korea.
The Mexican team defeated U.S. team members Alexis Ruiz, Olivia Dean and Sydney Sullenberger with a final score of 236-231.
The Mexican archers had to beat several teams before the final. They defeated France in the round of 16 in a sudden-death match. They defeated Denmark 232-231 in the quarterfinals. In the semifinals, they won against Kazakhstan, and in the final, Maya Becerra closed out the competition with a perfect 10 shot to secure the gold medal.
“I knew we were going to make history, and I wanted to do well,” Mariana Bernal said after the victory. “I’ve felt really strong since this morning, and I’m very happy. I really wanted this for the whole team because we’ve fought so hard for it, and I’m very happy to have achieved it.”
Team Mexico has won two gold medals at World Cups (in Central Florida and Shanghai), in addition to the Copa Merengue, which qualified the team for the 2026 Central American Games in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.
In addition to Sunday’s gold medal, Maya Becerra won a bronze medal in the mixed team event alongside Sebastián García after dramatically beating Wei Chang and Jou Huang, of the Chinese Taipei team, with a final score of 158-157.
The World Archery Championships kicked off Sept. 5 and will run through Sept. 12, combining qualification, heats and finals in the recurve and compound categories.
The Mexican delegation is made up of 12 archers participating in various individual and team events. Next are Olympians Alejandra Valencia and Matías Grande’s turns to compete. Both have strong medal prospects.
In Mexico, the World Archery Championships can be enjoyed live via Claro Sports.
A new public bicycling program in Puerto Vallarta could bring health and environmental benefits to the Bay of Banderas. (Vallarta Magico)
Long known for its stunning beaches and vibrant streets, Puerto Vallarta is embracing a new chapter in its urban evolution, one focused on sustainability, public health and smarter mobility.
Public bicycle schemes have taken off in several Mexican cities recently. Will Puerto Vallarta be next? (Tomás Acosta/Cuartoscuro.com)
At the heart of the project is a vision to make Puerto Vallarta a model city for green transportation in Mexico. The initiative, championed by Mayor Luis Ernesto Munguía González, is being financed through the local tourism trust, which receives revenue from a levy known as the lodging tax, which funds and maintains public spaces, tourism infrastructure and citywide services. The approach ties tourism directly to urban improvement, ensuring that those who benefit from the city’s charm also contribute to its sustainability.
According to city officials, the project is expected to unfold in two stages. First, the city is focusing on revitalizing and expanding the existing network of bike paths. These routes will form the backbone of the program, connecting neighborhoods and key attractions.
At the same time, urban planners are studying which areas would benefit most from the installation of bicycle docking stations.
In an interview Aug. 18 with Tribuna de la Bahía, Munguía said locations under consideration include the intersection of Avenida Los Tules and Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio, Plaza Caracol, the southern end of the Malecón, the Universidad del Mar de Puerto Vallarta, and Plaza Lázaro Cárdenas. These sites were selected for their strategic importance, central access and available public space.
Once the infrastructure is in place, the second phase, deployment of the bicycles will begin. While details such as the number of bikes and operating model are still in development, city leaders have confirmed that the bicycles will be free to use, reinforcing the program’s commitment to accessibility and inclusion.
Puerto Vallarta isn’t starting from scratch. Across the world, in cities like Paris, Bogotá and nearby Guadalajara, free or low-cost public bike-sharing programs have shown significant success. These systems reduce car dependency, ease traffic congestion, improve air quality and promote healthier lifestyles.
Guadalajara’s MiBici serivce may be the model that Puerto Vallarta chooses to copy. (MiBici/Facebook)
Guadalajara’s MiBici program has become a reference point, demonstrating how strategic planning and community engagement can turn bicycles into key elements of urban mobility.
For Puerto Vallarta, a city where tourism drives the economy and climate change presents a growing threat, such a program offers a dual benefit. It supports local transportation needs while aligning the city with global environmental goals. Visitors will gain an eco-friendly, cost-free way to explore the area, while locals, many of whom lack access to private vehicles, will enjoy greater mobility.
Matthew Werter, owner of Vallarta Unified Health Solutions, sees the initiative as a step forward for both mental and physical health.
“As we learn more about our physical and mental health, the importance that exercise plays cannot be ignored,” Werter said. “This program provides an opportunity for people to get outside and enjoy the natural beauty that Puerto Vallarta has to offer. As a father, being able to hop on a bicycle and get some exercise with my son while enjoying this piece of paradise we call home only makes Vallarta an even better place to raise him.”
Still, the road ahead presents challenges. Bicycle safety is a concern, especially given the city’s cobblestone streets and often unpredictable traffic patterns. Some have voiced frustration with incomplete or narrow bike paths that leave cyclists exposed.
“I love the idea of this, but what about our roads?” asked resident Cecy Romero. “We have paths already, yes, but not a lot, and they cannot just be extended; they need to be fixed. People will hurt themselves on our roads.”
Gov. Enrique Alfaro, center, inaugurated Puerto Vallarta’s latest bike lanes — part of a new initiative to add more green mobility options in the city — in October last year. Despite this, there are still some concerns that city-wide bicycle lanes could need more protection. (Gov of Jalisco)
Safety is also a concern for Werter, although he remains hopeful.
“The worsening problem of traffic and pollution caused by the ever-increasing number of cars in Puerto Vallarta needs solutions that incentivize alternative modes of transportation,” he said. “Safety would be my greatest concern; however, I’m sure that Puerto Vallarta can use the successes seen in similar programs implemented in other cities as a template to ensure this program is successful here.”
City officials are also exploring how to address maintenance and security challenges, including keeping the bicycles in good condition and preventing theft or vandalism. Partnerships with experienced operators, possibly even Guadalajara’s MiBici, are being considered to bring best practices to Vallarta.
There is also a strong push to integrate the bicycle system into the city’s broader transportation upgrades. Puerto Vallarta has already introduced electric buses, with the first spotted on city streets in late August. Upgraded major intersections and new investments in parks and bridges are contributing to a larger vision of a more modern, connected city.
Programs like this are transformative not just because of the bicycles themselves, but because of the ripple effects they create. When people have access to clean, affordable and efficient transportation, their quality of life improves. Commutes become shorter. Air becomes cleaner. Public spaces become more vibrant.
In cities such as Copenhagen and Amsterdam, both global leaders in urban cycling, the benefits are reflected not only in health data seen in the Environmental Insights Explorer and reduced emissions as evidenced by both the Municipality of Copenhagen and the University of Oxford, but in the everyday lives of residents who feel freer, safer and more connected to their communities.
If thoughtfully implemented, Puerto Vallarta’s bicycle program could become one of the city’s proudest achievements by taking a bold step toward sustainability, equity and wellness.
The bikes may be free, but their value could be immeasurable.
Charlotte Smith is a contributing writer with over 20 years of experience as a writer and editor. An award-winning journalist, she actively seeks out stories that resonate with the world around us, while also maintaining a travel blog focused on her life adventuring across Mexico, specifically the states of Jalisco and Nayarit.
One of the factors that brought the curvy sedan into the public eye was the unforgettable day a little white Vocho — equipped with a 30-centimeter propeller — chugged across Chapala, Mexico’s biggest lake.
The Volkswagen was specially outfitted for the crossing attempt. (Mexico Desconocido)
That crossing took place on September 8, 1968. The story of the event was widely published, but details were scarce, and many papers embellished their reports.
In search of the real story
To get the true and full story, I sat down with Jorge Viera, president of the Volkswagen Classic Club in Guadalajara, who spent years looking for the mechanics who made the car amphibious and piloted it across the lake.
“I knew eight of the 14 people involved,” Viera told me, “and one of them introduced me to the man who organized the whole thing: Alois Poppenreiter. He was an Austrian-Hungarian engineer brought to Guadalajara by Volkswagen Americas to act as Service Manager.
“It was in 1968 that the idea of floating the little car occurred to Poppenreiter. Volkswagen had announced that their sedan was the most hermetic car to be found and had made ads saying it floated, but it wasn’t really true. Poppenreiter, however, decided he was going to do it; he was going to make a Volkswagen float, and he was going to make it float right across Lake Chapala!”
Poppenreiter got together with several equally enthusiastic Mexican mechanics at Volkswagen Americas, and the owners of the dealership provided them with a used 1968 sedan. For the next six months the team worked on this project during their free time. They were never paid anything for this and always made it clear they had done it for fun.
Jorge Viera undertook a mission to find and interview the team behind the audacious stunt. (John Pint)
They started out by putting the Vocho through their car wash to see just how watertight it was.
“Then they began work on sealing it up,” says Viera. “People say they use silicon, but it didn’t exist in those days! Actually, they used a product called Apcoseal, as well as putty, cork, and even egg whites: nothing fancy!
Beneath black waters
“Next, they went to a nearby park called Avila Camacho, where there was a dam. Well, a certain amount of what we call ‘aguas negras’ (raw sewage) flowed into that dam, but that didn’t hold back the team. They built a ramp, drove the Vocho into it… and it sank! They had to pull it out with a tractor and ropes.”
Years later, Marcelo de Loza, one of the Mexican mechanics, recalled the event. “The water in that dam was dirty and smelled bad. We went back to the agency and washed both the car and ourselves. I ended up stinking for three days,”
By trial and error, the project advanced. The car’s 1200 engine had been ruined by water leaking into it and was replaced by a 1500. Adjustments were made to keep the oil in and the water out. A modified worm gear had to be made on a lathe.
The water in Lake Chapala was not especially clean. Note the rescue ropes mounted on the front of the vehicle. (Jorge Viera)
Water snakes and lilies
“Next,” continues Viera, “they tested the car at the Ajijic Yacht Club and Lake Cajititlán where they ran into problems from water snakes and ‘lirios,’ water hyacinths that carpeted many local lakes and lagoons in those days.”
By now, the Vocho had a removable 30-cm bronze propeller on the back, industrial tubing extending its exhaust pipes above water level, and a snorkel on its carburetor.
At last, they made their final tests in Lake Chapala.
The lake crossing was to take place on September 8 and for the event they hired two speedboats to accompany them in case of trouble.
It’s important to note that the doors of the Vocho were sealed and couldn’t be opened even in an emergency. If the car began to sink, they would have to exit via the windows.
The pilot of the amphibious vehicle was Alois Poppenreiter himself and the copilot was the man in charge of the electrical system, Marcelo de Loza, who, however, was specifically chosen for co-pilot “as he was an excellent swimmer.” De Loza operated the car’s two bilge pumps. The public didn’t know about these because the water was being pumped out of the car through the glove compartment.
Finally came the day of the crossing. The would-be mariners attached a 30-meter-long agave-fiber rope to the bumper, in case the car went to the bottom. This was coiled and hanging on the outside mirror on the driver’s side. They informed the newspapers, and lots of people showed up.
The plan was to launch the boat at 12:00 noon from San Luis Soyatlan at the southwest corner of the lake. They expected to reach Ajijic at 2:00 p.m. and Chapala at 3:00.
“However, says Viera, “there they were on the 8th, ready to launch, but the two speed boats were nowhere to be seen. The reason was the waves. They were so high that no boats of any kind were allowed on the lake. It was too dangerous.”
“Well, after a while, the waves calmed down and they immediately launched the Vochito, accompanied by an ordinary rowboat. It was only halfway through the event that one of those speed boats arrived. There were stories that a scuba diver accompanied them, but these were just rumors.”
Choppy waters
The victorious Volkswagen spent some time in the WV Americas installation before being un-retired to advertise the 1970 World Cup. (Mexico Desconocido)
Chapala or bust
“We left San Luis Soyatlán at about 12:15,” recalled de Loza in a TV Azteca interview, “and, sure enough, after a little while the motor died…but, we managed to get it going again and carried on, reaching Ajijic at about 4:00 p.m., but then we had to keep going in the water to reach Chapala. That took us another two hours.”
When they arrived, a euphoric crowd of locals and tourists welcomed the Vochito at the pier — and then began the fiesta!
The car was put on exhibit in Volkswagen Americas for a while and — restored for normal operation — made its final public appearance at Jalisco Stadium during a World Cup soccer game in 1970. It was driven to the middle of the pitch where, to the crowd’s delight, out of it emerged all eleven members of Mexico’s team, who had been crammed inside. The car was then sold and lost track of, but the Vocho that crossed the lake will never be forgotten.
John Pint has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, for more than 30 years and is the author of “A Guide to West Mexico’s Guachimontones and Surrounding Area” and co-author of “Outdoors in Western Mexico.” More of his writing can be found on his website.
Welcome to Chihuahua's Copper Canyon: A land of mystery, nature and awe. (Steppes Travel)
Having been a travel writer for the past 15 years, I’ve had the privilege of traveling to over 150 countries and visiting the big hitters — from the pyramids of Giza to the jungle-clad temples of Angkor Wat and the mountaintop ruins of Machu Picchu. While these icons are magnificent, I’ve learned that the real magic of travel isn’t just about ticking off a list. It’s about finding those “wow” moments in places I didn’t expect.
That’s exactly what this new series is all about. Over the next 10 weeks, I’ll be taking you on a journey through my adopted home of Mexico to find the incredible experiences that stand shoulder-to-shoulder with some of the Earth’s most iconic spots. Get ready to venture beyond the well-trodden path and discover a side of Mexico you never knew existed.
Grand Canyon vs Copper Canyon
The Grand Canyon isn’t the only canyon that can take a traveler’s breath away. (Shutterstock)
To kick things off, we’re starting with a showstopper of epic proportions. In the mountains of northern Mexico, the earth cracks open to reveal a dramatic landscape where sheer cliffs plunge into a copper-green abyss, carved deep over millions of years by the rivers that still shape it today.
The sheer scale of it all might remind you of Arizona’s pride and joy, but this is its untamed, lesser-known cousin: Barrancas del Cobre or Copper Canyon. While the Grand Canyon is a global icon, instantly recognizable and visited by millions, the Copper Canyon remains a far more untamed and, if you ask me, more adventurous experience.
The two share a similar origin story, both sculpted over millennia by the forces of water carving through high plateaus. Both boast staggering depths and widths that defy imagination. But that’s about where the similarities end. Think of the Grand Canyon as a perfectly produced Hollywood blockbuster, and the Copper Canyon an indie film — raw, wild and unpredictable.
The blockbuster experience
Don’t get me wrong, the Grand Canyon is popular for good reason. It’s a world wonder, a 277-mile-long spectacle whose layered rock tells a story that stretches back two billion years. For the roughly five million people who visit annually, the experience is often a beautifully managed affair. Paved roads lead you to stunning viewpoints, where you’ll find visitor centers, museums, and the reassuring presence of park rangers.
It’s undeniably beautiful, but its immense popularity means that the experience can sometimes feel a little too curated. While serious hikers can brave its wild heart on multi-day treks (if they snag an overnight permit), most of us see it just from those accessible, well-paved trails along the rim. I often feel like I’m observing a masterpiece from a distance, safely separated from its true, untamed core.
Mexico’s wild frontier
Imagine a canyon system so vast it could swallow the Grand Canyon whole — four times over. Welcome to the Copper Canyon, a network of six interconnected canyons in the heart of the Sierra Madre Occidental. And yet, while Arizona’s marvel welcomes millions, the Barrancas del Cobre see only a tiny fraction of that, leaving this natural attraction largely untouched by mass tourism.
Despite its name, Copper Canyon actually comprises six distinct canyons in Mexico’s Sierra Madre Occidental range. (Jens Uhlenbrock/Wikimedia Commons)
For me, what truly makes the Copper Canyon such a profound place is that it’s still very much alive. It’s home to the Tarahumara (Rarámuri) people, who inhabit the steep slopes of the mountains in simple huts and caves. You might have heard of them – they’re renowned for their superhuman running prowess. Born from a lifetime in this rugged terrain, the Tarahumara can navigate rocky trails for miles on end, effortlessly scaling the steep slopes of the Copper Canyon.
While I was there, I learned about the story of Lorena Ramírez, a young Tarahumara woman who became an international sensation. She won grueling ultramarathons in Europe, not in high-tech gear, but in her traditional flowing skirt and tire-soled huaraches. I highly recommend visiting the Museo de la Cultura Tarahumara in the town of Creel to get the full scoop and learn more about this fascinating culture.
If you want a truly unforgettable experience, mark your calendars for the first weekend of March. That’s when the annual Caballo Blanco Ultramarathon, a brutal 50-mile (80-kilometer) race, takes place in the town of Urique. It’s a humbling, front-row seat to watch the amazing Tarahumara athletes conquer their home turf with impressive grace and speed.
Highlights of Copper Canyon
Copper Canyon is a hikers’ paradise, and hands down one of the best places to explore in Mexico for outdoor lovers. The legendary three-day trek from the old silver mining town of Batopilas to Urique is an epic journey along ancient paths that weave through mango groves and bougainvillea-filled gardens, a world away from the pine-clad rim. You’ll need a good guide and a sturdy pair of legs, but the reward is total immersion in the wilderness.
For those who don’t have time for a multiday trek, my tip is to stay at one of the incredible canyon-rim hotels in Divisadero, like the Hotel Mirador or Hotel Divisadero Barrancas, and do guided, short hikes from there. Picture pulling back the curtains at sunrise and being greeted by the silent, immense expanse of three canyons stretching before you, and then hiking along the rim hearing stories from a Tarahumara guide. It’s a humbling, front-row seat to the canyon’s grandeur that a simple roadside viewpoint just can’t replicate.
Near the Divisadero train station, the Parque de Aventuras Barrancas del Cobre offers a shot of adrenaline for thrillseekers. You can soar across the canyon on one of the world’s longest ziplines or, for a less hair-raising (but no less jaw-dropping) view, glide over the chasm on the aerial tram. Either way, the views are breathtaking!
All aboard El Chepe
EL CHEPE: Mexico's BEST Train through the Copper Canyon!
But the absolute best way to experience the Copper Canyon is aboard the Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacífico, affectionately known as El Chepe. This legendary train journey is an engineering marvel, traversing 37 bridges and 86 tunnels as it winds its way from the coastal city of Los Mochis to the highlands of Chihuahua.
To embark on this incredible journey, you’ll need to get to either Chihuahua City or Los Mochis in the state of Sinaloa further south. Both cities have airports with connections from major cities in Mexico and the United States. I personally prefer to start my journey in the high altitudes of Chihuahua, and then descend towards the warm coastal plains off the Pacific Ocean. It’s a fantastic contrast!
Now you have another choice to make, and this really comes down to your travel style. The Chepe Express is your comfortable, scenic-focused option that runs between Creel and Los Mochis, offering three classes of service: Tourist, Executive, and First Class. The higher classes provide access to a dining car with panoramic windows, a bar, and an open-air terrace for unbeatable views. Book tickets online in advance, especially if you’re planning to travel in the holiday season.
The Chepe Regional, on the other hand, is a more basic, local-bus-on-rails experience that covers a longer route from Chihuahua City to Los Mochis, making more stops along the way. While it’s primarily used by locals, tourists can also ride in the tourist-class car. The Regional can only be booked at the train stations in Los Mochis or Chihuahua. For the full cultural immersion, the Regional is a great bet.
Beyond the viewpoint
The Grand Canyon is, without question, a bucket-list destination. But for travelers who, like me, get a special thrill from earning their experiences, the Copper Canyon offers a different, more profound kind of experience.
Here, you wake up to it from a cliff-edge hotel room, you soar through it on a zipline, and you journey into its very heart aboard a legendary train. A hike isn’t just a walk on a well-trodden path but a rugged passage into a different culture, a different world.
The rugged but beautiful terrain of Mexico’s Copper Canyon. (Unsplash/Jorge Franco)
If you’ve stood at the rim of the Grand Canyon and felt that tug, that desire to go deeper and connect with a place on a more human level, then it’s time to pack your bags. Mexico is calling.
Nellie Huang is a professional travel writer and self-proclaimed Mexico-holic. She’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Mexico guidebook and has written hundreds of articles on Mexico for various publications. Read about her adventures worldwide on wildjunket.com and follow her updates on Instagram @wildjunket.
