A pair of rose-gold Cartier hoops was mistakenly listed at a fraction of the actual price on the luxury jeweler's website. (Wikimedia Commons)
In December last year, a young Mexican doctor was surfing the web when a pair of elegant rose gold and diamond earrings caught his eye.
His eyes widened further when he noticed the price of just 237 pesos (US $13). He ordered two pairs. A few weeks later, Rogelio Villarreal and the luxury jeweler Cartier were engaged in a legal tussle that has made it all the way into the pages of The New York Times.
The problem? The earrings — described asslender studded 18-carat rose-gold cuffs lined with diamonds — were actually priced at 237,000 pesos (US $13,000).
After Villarreal placed his order, the folks at Cartier quickly sprang into action after realizing the error.
First, the price on the website was corrected and then Cartier contacted Villarreal asking him to cancel the order. Initially, the New York Times reported, the French luxury goods conglomerate claimed the earrings were no longer available.
When that did not dissuade Villarreal from insisting on the purchase, company representatives telephoned him in hopes of convincing him to accept complimentary gifts instead.
Villarreal held firm, investigated the terms of conditions on the Cartier website, then filed a complaint with Mexico’s Consumer Protection Agency (Profeco).
Profeco has a good reputation among Mexicans and a decent track record; in February, it filed a class-action lawsuit against Sony after the electronics company canceled orders of discounted Playstation 5 consoles. The agency moved to mediate the dispute over the earrings, inviting Cartier to arbitration.
In the meantime, Villarreal took the controversy public, sharing his experience on social media. Some applauded him for his tenacity, while others criticized him for trying to use Profeco for personal gain.
Among the latter was National Action Party (PAN) Senator Lily Téllez, a former journalist.
Téllez argued that even if the law is on your side, “it is wrong to take advantage of a mistake to the detriment of another person … to scam a company. It is more important to be honorable than to own Cartier earrings.”
When corporate attorney Jorge López Zozaya was asked about the case by the Times, he said “Mexican law does not extend protections to consumers if a listed price was clearly a mistake.”
Regardless, the matter appears to have been resolved. Neither Cartier nor Profeco confirmed an agreement had been reached, but Villarreal said on Monday that the jeweler informed him it would honor his purchase. He wrote “The war is over” in a social media post.
Despite the perfect mix of sun, sea and sand, Bacalar has somehow remained off the radar for many tourists. Don't let the experience pass you by as well! (Gideon Ikigai/Shutterstock)
Bacalar is one of those places you need to see to believe. A shimmering lake in the most idyllic shade of turquoise seems to extend endlessly, like an extension of the picture-perfect Caribbean. Except it’s not the sea at all — it’s the Laguna de Bacalar, a freshwater lake, the second largest in Mexico. Known as the Lake of Seven Colors, the waters here are so brilliantly blue and translucent that Bacalar has been bestowed with the moniker of the Maldives of Mexico.
Laguna de Bacalar is a 42-square-kilometer lake that sits tucked in the southeastern corner of the state of Quintana Roo. Steeped in Maya history, Spanish conquests and pirate lore, the lake is anchored by the Pueblo Magico of the same name, known for its eco-friendly accommodations, boho vibe and laid-back lifestyle.
The vibrant hues of Bacalar have earned the lagoon the moniker of “Lake of Seven Colors.” (Liz Aguayo/Unsplash)
About five hours south of Cancún, this breathtaking slice of scenery was a well-kept secret for years. Now, however, with the expansion of tourism in Quintana Roo and the addition of the Maya Train and Tulum International Airport, Bacalar is growing faster than ever, poised to be Mexico’s next beachy hotspot.
Let’s dig a little deeper into this exciting location, which ought to be on your travel radar if it isn’t already.
How to get to Bacalar
Up until recently, Bacalar was a bit of a hike to get to, which is why it stayed off the gringo tourist trail for so long. But Bacalar is anything but a secret to Mexican nationals, who have been naming the Lagoon as one of their top vacation destinations for decades.
Nowadays, visitors can get to Bacalar in a variety of ways. They can fly into Cancún and rent a car for the five-hour drive or take a long-distance bus. Another option is to fly into Chetumal, which is only 45 minutes from Bacalar. As of last December, visitors can now also fly into the Tulum International Airport, which is two and a half hours away from Bacalar.
Once a favorite target for pirates, the only boats on Bacalar are for tourists. (Gobierno de México)
Best things to do in Bacalar
A scan across the crystal waters of Bacalar reveals a snapshot of life on the lake. Kayaks slip across the surface, while sun worshippers lounge on wooden docks. The only soundtrack is that of the birds in the trees and the gentle lapping of the water. For residents and visitors, Bacalar is all about the lake, as well as relishing its natural beauty, tapping into the history of the region and keeping the environment as well-preserved as possible.
Visit the Fort of San Felipe: Get acquainted with the history of Bacalar with a visit to the Fort of San Felipe. The stone fort sits right at the entrance to the town of Bacalar, with views out over the bright blues of the lake. The fort dates back to the 18th century and was developed to protect Bacalar from international pirates. In the middle of the 19th century, the fort was taken over by rebel Mayans during the Caste War of Yucatán. Today it operates as a museum, telling the multicultural history of southern Quintana Roo and the lake.
Snorkel the Cenote Azul: The earth beneath the streets and forest floors of the Yucatán Peninsula is practically honeycombed with spectacular underground caves and cisterns known as cenotes. These subterranean natural wonders have been celebrated by Maya peoples for thousands of years as entrances to Xibalba, or the underworld. Bacalar has its fair share of cenotes within a short distance, but none is as famous as the Cenote Azul. Reaching depths of over 90 meters, the dark blue hole is separated from the lagoon by a thin strip of land. Visitors can swim and snorkel the lagoon to explore its mysterious depths or simply lounge on its banks and enjoy the view.
Sail the lake: Of course, nothing is as exciting as getting out onto the lake itself. Visitors to Bacalar can sign up for one of the many organized sailing tours that cruise across the lake throughout the day and into sunset. Sunset experiences on the lake are like none other, as the sky melts into pinks and purples mirrored in the waters of the lagoon. Many of the lake clubs and lakefront hotels have kayaks and paddleboards for guests to take out as well. You can even navigate your way through the Canal de los Piratas, which pirates used to secretly enter the lagoon in the 18th century during their many attempts to attack the town of Bacalar.
The quiet village of Bacalar backs directly onto the lake for unparalleled access to the perfect waters. (Gobierno de México)
Explore downtown: The village of Bacalar is wonderful. Picture Tulum 20 years ago, and you’re getting close to what it’s like in Bacalar today. The sleepy village is bite-sized and webbed with sand-strewn streets. Though it has accumulated a healthy handful of funky shops, bars and restaurants, it is still a far cry from the frenetic energy of Playa del Carmen and Tulum.
Lounge at a Lake Club: Bacalar may not have the miles of white, sandy beaches that you’ll find at other Mexican Caribbean destinations. But it does have a few small beaches and overwater docks that stick out into the lagoon. These affordable establishments usually charge a small fee to use facilities like the docks, hammocks, kayaks and restaurants.
Where to eat in Bacalar
Bacalar’s culinary scene is one of the most up-and-coming in the country, where boho-chic design meets locally sourced ingredients.
El Manatí: Breakfast in Mexico is nothing short of an art, and the chefs at El Manatí are some of the best artists around. Hungry morning people flock for their thick burritos, overstuffed omelets, chilaquiles and fluffy pancakes. They also have fabulous smoothies and strong coffee. What makes this spot unique is the tropical patio setting and the splashes of colorful murals. El Manatí even has live music for brunch now and then too.
Check in at El Manatí for Bacalar’s best breakfast. (El Manatí/Facebook)
Mi Burrito Bacalar: Speaking of brunch, Mi Burrito Bacalar is one of the best spots in town for a mid-morning meal. If you’re craving plump burritos, this is the place to be. The restaurant is nothing more than a wooden awning that creates a casual dining place in front of the burrito truck. But it’s got exactly that no-frill, casual atmosphere that visitors love so much about Bacalar.
La Playita Bacalar: With a direct view over the lagoon, this is one of the best tables in town. The relaxed setting sets the scene for fish tacos, ceviche, shrimp, grilled burgers and tropical cocktails. They have a dock that is part of the restaurant from which you can jump straight into the lagoon, so pack a bag and make a day of it.
Mango y Chile: For such a small town, Bacalar has a lot to offer vegan travelers. Mango y Chile is one of the most popular vegan restaurants in town. Their menu serves vegan burgers, tofu sandwiches, salads and tacos.
Best Bacalar Hotels
The beauty of Bacalar is that its accommodations are as relaxed as the scene itself. A stay in Bacalar is about disappearing into nature, dialing down the high speed and embracing a minute-by-minute lifestyle. You won’t find international chains or all-inclusive resorts here. Bacalar is boutique and eco-friendly and lets the tranquility of the destination tell the story.
Grab some lakeside massage therapy at Rancho Encantado. (Rancho Encantado/Facebook)
Rancho Encantado: A collection of bungalows and villas scattered along the lakefront of the lagoon. The palapa-topped dock is one of the most serene in Bacalar, complete with hammocks that sway out over the water. A lakefront restaurant serves fresh seafood and strong drinks, while activities include a pool, kayaks and paddle boards and a small spa.
Hotel Makaaba: Hotel Makaaba exudes that backpacker hotel vibe that many of us fell in love with in Mexico during our twenties, but it has elevated the experience to make it more comfortable for travelers in their thirties and forties. It is still extremely affordable, at less than $100 a night with breakfast included. But the design touches and comfortable accommodations mean it’s geared toward a more sophisticated traveler. The restaurant here is one of the best in town, and the pool is the center of the social activity, with over-water nets perfect for lounging with a good book.
Casa Hormiga: This boutique resort opened in 2020, with the ethos of being a jungle sanctuary and a place for rituals and healing. With one of the most beautiful designs, Casa Hormiga’s energy embodies the low-impact backpacker spirit, but with a decidedly chic and sophisticated aesthetic. The design takes cues from places like Morocco, Central America and, of course, Mexico. The heart of the hotel is its lengthy list of rituals, which include everything from massages and sound baths to aromatherapy and breathwork.
Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com.
NASA officials Bill Nelson and Pamela Melroy met with Mexico's president, students, researchers and lawmakers earlier this week. (@SenBillNelson/X)
In a bid to strengthen bilateral ties, high-ranking NASA officials Bill Nelson and Pamela Melroy visited Mexico this week. Their agenda included meetings with President Andrés Manuel López Obrador, students and researchers.
Nelson, a Democratic senator from Florida who served from 2001 to 2019, has been the administrator of the United States Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) since May 2021. Melroy, a former astronaut who piloted Space Shuttle missions in 2000 and 2002, is now NASA’s deputy administrator.
Discussions with the president focused on using space-based instruments to tackle bilateral environmental issues. (@SRE_mx/X)
The focus of NASA’s meetings in Mexico was collaboration on environmental issues. Nelson highlighted how space-based instruments can track deforestation, help prepare for natural disasters and monitor water resources, which are all crucial data for tackling climate change.
Nelson noted how operations in space can help protect natural features like the second-largest carbon sink in the world, located in southern Mexico. “One wants to maintain that forest, which absorbs carbon dioxide,” he said in a media round table held at the United States Embassy. “But the problem is that people are making the forest disappear. With instruments in space, we can see that people are setting fire to the forest.”
López Obrador expressed interest in using SpaceX’s Starlink satellites to bring high-speed internet to remote areas, a dream of his for Mexico’s population. Discussions also touched on medical research in space, particularly on cancer.
There’s also a joint initiative for an atmospheric observatory.
Ambassador Ken Salazar hosted NASA administrators Bill Nelson and Pam Melroy at the United States Embassy along with Mexican officials, researchers and students. (@USAmbMex/X)
Some of the discussion during NASA’s visit to Mexico was about sending a future Mexican astronaut to the moon. Rodolfo Neri Vela, who went to space 39 years ago, was remembered; Neri, now 72, was aboard the Space Shuttle Atlantis and helped place into orbit the Mexican satellite Morelos 2.
On the academic front, Nelson and Melroy indicated that NASA hopes not only to continue collaborating with the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), but also to expand to other universities and research centers. A day before the Tuesday meeting with AMLO, the NASA officials spoke to an auditorium full of students and faculty from various Mexican universities.
In Tuesday’s meeting with the media, Melroy talked about how space research can help with the growing global problem of water scarcity. “I had a meeting with the Foreign Affairs Minister, Alicia Bárcena, last year and she talked to me about the importance of water [issues] on the border, so NASA proactively let the government know that we created two studies to study water on the border.”
López Obrador also noted in a social media post on X that he pushed for engineer and science educator Katya Echazarreta to be included on another space mission. A Guadalajara native who moved to the U.S. as a kid, Echazarreta, 27, was a “citizen astronaut ambassador” on a commercial space flight in 2022, after which Mattel made a Barbie Role Model doll of her.
Nos visitaron los titulares de la Administración Nacional de Aeronáutica y el Espacio (NASA), Bill Nelson y Pamela Melroy, una de las dos únicas mujeres que ha comandado un transbordador espacial. Tratamos, entre otros asuntos, que Katya Echazarreta, joven astronauta mexicana… pic.twitter.com/UKPrR6toOb
“It was an honor to meet with President López Obrador,” Nelson wrote in a post on X. “There is a new and bright future ahead for the United States and Mexico — in space, and here on Earth.”
Melroy emphasized the unifying power of space. “From space, borders disappear,” she said, stressing the importance of international collaboration for the benefit of all humankind.
Casa Madero has been consistently producing award winning wines (and one Mexican president) for generations. (All photos by Casa Madero/Facebook)
Casa Madero, nestled in the municipality of Parras de la Fuente in Coahuila state, proudly holds the title of the oldest winery in the Americas. With a history dating back to 1597, it has been producing wines uninterruptedly for centuries and earning its reputation as a true leader in the winemaking industry, while also holding the spotlight as Mexico’s first organic vineyard.
In the vast landscapes of early colonial Mexico, Spanish conquistadors were obsessively searching for gold deposits. In 1568, explorers set out from Zacatecas in search of the precious metal. When they arrived in Coahuila, what they found was something less shiny but more precious: an oasis of springs and abundant wild vines.
With an abundance of natural springs, the town of Parras is the perfect spot for winemakers, and the ancestral home of the Mexican wine industry.
In 1594, three Jesuits established the Santa María de las Parras mission, where they produced the region’s first wine. The following year, Lorenzo García, aware of the valley’s riches, sought the favor of King Philip II of Spain and obtained permission to cultivate the land and produce wine and brandy. Thus was born Hacienda San Lorenzo, the home of Casa Madero.
From 1597 to 1893, the winery changed owners 13 times until it was acquired by Evaristo Madero. Evaristo’s grandson, Francisco I. Madero, later emerged as a prominent figure in the Mexican Revolution, advocating for social justice, human rights and democracy. As a revolutionary leader, he played a crucial role in overthrowing the dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz.
Mexico’s first internationally certified organic wine
Casa Madero stands as a benchmark in the international wine industry, renowned for its continuous innovation, distinctive certifications and global accolades. In 2010, Casa Madero achieved a significant milestone by becoming the first Mexican vineyard to obtain the ISO 9001:2008 Quality Certification for the production of wines and distilled beverages.
Casa Madero is also certified as an organic vineyard.
A trailblazer in Mexican viticulture, Casa Madero is also the country’s first organic vineyard, becoming certified in 2012. This accomplishment began in 2008 with a commitment to environmental stewardship, leading to a four-year detoxification process that eliminated all chemical inputs from the land. After years of nurturing the soil according to organic agriculture best practices, German certification body BCS KIWA Okö Garantie certified Casa Madero in the USDA National Organic Program standard.
This winery also holds the V-Label certification, the most recognized seal in the European Union, which certifies that all ingredients used for their products are of vegetable origin and that no animal ingredients were used at any stage of production.
Casa Madero: officially the best in the world
Casa Madero is a world-class winery with over a thousand international medals. It has earned some of the most world’s most prestigious awards, such as Double Gold medals in Vinus Argentina, Grand Gold awards in Vinitaly Italy, Best Wine in Vinalies Internationales France, Revelation Wine in the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and Best of Show in Mundus Vini Germany.
Several Casa Madero wines have won gold medals at the highest echelons of the global industry.
In 2013, Casa Madero’s Chenin Blanc 2012 was awarded the Double Gold medal and recognized as the best white wine at Vinalies Internationales, France’s most important wine competition, considered one of the five most prestigious in the world. In 2014, the winery’s Malbec 2012 won the title of “Revelation Wine” and a gold medal at the Concours Mondial in Brussels. Additionally, its Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 and Gran Reserva Shiraz 2015 wines cracked the Top 10 of the World Ranking of Wines & Spirits.
Experience the wine yourself
Casa Madero offers tours of its facilities, set against the backdrop of majestic landscapes that whisper tales of centuries-old traditions. Here, amidst the serenity of the vineyards, guests are invited to savor the unparalleled excellence of its award-winning wines. These tours offer a symphony of flavors and aromas that embody Mexico’s vinicultural heritage, waiting to be explored and cherished by all who seek the essence of fine wine.
Casa Madero continues to thrive as a family-owned business. Their unwavering commitment to innovation drives them to continually push the boundaries in vineyard techniques and winemaking processes that stand out on the global stage.
Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: [email protected]
The ballad by singer Pablo Ángel is dedicated to the state special forces, and he was apparently authorized to film the music video with the participation of police. One pesky detail: the singer is also known for his narco corridos. (Screen capture)
Oaxaca Governor Salomón Jara has announced the suspension of three high-ranking police officials after officers from a special operations unit appeared in a music video with a singer who has released songs dedicated to drug traffickers.
“In relation to the video circulating on social media about the Special Operations Police Unit [UPOE], I’ve ordered an internal investigation,” Jara wrote on the X social media platform on Wednesday.
“Until the situation is completely clarified, I’ve given the instruction for the director of the UPOE, Rodolfo Montero Arista, the director of the State Support Forces, Gilberto Hernández Villarreal, and the State Police Commissioner, Eduardo Gutiérrez Ruiz, to be removed from their positions,” he said.
Heavily-armed UPOE officers are essentially the stars of the video, which was made for a corrido, or ballad, dedicated to the special operations unit on the occasion of its 23rd anniversary. Officers appear behind “El Oaxaco” as he sings, and are also shown firing their weapons and carrying out raids.
At the start of the clip, a message appears saying that “all the visual elements used in this video are under the authorization of the UPOE with the aim of extolling the work of our police.”
Y ahora… un corrido para la Policía de Oaxaca 😵💫🎶
El cantante Pablo del Ángel 👼🏽 grabó un corrido dedicado a la Unidad Policial de Operaciones Especial (UPOE) 🚔
En el video de “el Oaxaco” se habrían utilizado recursos públicos 💰🤦🏽pic.twitter.com/Ube66vM9xU
This video has led to the suspension of three high-ranking police officials in Oaxaca this week.
If that was the intent of the police officials who possibly authorized the appearance of the officers in the video and who have now been suspended, the plan backfired — and badly.
Governor Jara clearly doesn’t approve of any association between the state police and a singer who has previously released a song called “Yo Soy Ovidio” (I am Ovidio), dedicated to Ovidio Guzmán, a son of former drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán. Ovidio was captured in Culiacán, Sinaloa, in January 2023 and extradited to the United States last September to face drug trafficking charges.
Pablo del Ángel also has a ballad about notorious drug lord Rafael Caro Quintero, who was arrested in northern Mexico in 2022. He boasts in another song – the “Corrido de El Oaxaco” – that he always carries a gun, and has used it to kill.
Some of Britain's most intriguing characters have fallen in love with Mexico over the centuries, from architects, to writers, to explorers. (Rubi Rodriguez Martinez/Shutterstock)
What was it about Mexico that so captivated some of the renowned dashing, eccentric and artistic Brits of the previous centuries? Mexico had such a magical hold on Frederick Catherwood, Aldous Huxley, Leonora Carrington, Sir Edward James and Fanny Erskine Ingles that they wrote about it, painted it, got deeply involved in society and made it their home.
As a Brit who’s spent the last fifteen years living between New York City and San Miguel de Allende, I’ve often mulled over what kept those who blazed the trail before me, whether they returned home too soon or never at all. Whereas is Britain is known for its reserved and almost uncomfortably polite culture, Mexico, a land of vibrance, color, social turbulence and disparity with a rich history, festivities, desert, dust and cacti is almost diametrically opposed in its flavor.
The leafy villages of the UK are a far cry from the deserts, jungles and mountains of Mexico. (Skyscanner)
A very British love affair with Mexico
I can relate to those of my countrymen who developed a love affair with Mexico. Not only have I read some of their books, adored their paintings and heard some intriguing tales about their lives, but some of my own encounters with the people and culture of Mexico have echoed their passion for the country. It was in Mexico that I found freedom, warmth and creativity; that I performed theater, joined a circus trapeze school, danced ecstatically in the street in one of their many festivities and holiday celebrations, hiked in the desert and met strange looking animals and plants.
I was captured by the importance Mexicans place on family; met other wandering explorers from all over the world; participated in centuries-old healing ceremonies and fell in love with the dramatic sweep of the landscape, the sight of three generations that gather in the town square at night, the expressiveness of the language, the taco and coconut water stands by the side of the road, the roaming dogs and cats and the flamboyant clothing, which inspired me to design my own. I even became fond of the incessant fireworks at dawn and the yells and bells of the elote and horchata vendors.
Some of my best friends are Mexicans. They take life in their stride, bemused by the neurotic mindset of Americans or the reserve of the English. They know how to love, laugh and live to the fullest. And, well, they love a good party. But for the adventurous Brits – and there’s a history of them – Mexico welcomes them with open arms, perhaps appreciating their curiosity, and sense of humor.
But who exactly were these people who settled in this exotic land, so far from the sunlit uplands of home?
Frederick Catherwood
Frederick Catherwood was famed for his accurate drawings of Mexico’s then mostly lost Maya history. (Wikimedia)
This early 19th century English artist, architect and explorer discovered the Mayan universe and rendered meticulously detailed snapshots of the ruins of their civilisation, using the camera lucida drawing technique. All the mysterious glory of the previously unknown Maya mesmerized a Europe deep in an obsession with Egyptology, and rocketed Mexican history to the forefront. His books, with John Lloyd Stephens, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatán and Incidents of Travel in Yucatán, were best sellers. In 1837, Catherwood was elected into the National Academy of Design as an Honorary member.
While the Maya cities of today are celebrated and restored, Catherwood’s work captures an important part of Mexican history at a time when so much of it was thought to be lost.
Sir Edward James
James’ surrealist gardens in the forests of San Luis Potosí are a marriage of British aristocratic quirks and Mexican magic. (Demian Chávez/Cuartoscuro)
Sir Edward James probably had the most trappings of class and culture of all our British eccentrics in his journey from wealthy aristocrat to the architect of a surrealist castle in the lush rainforest of Xilitla, San Luis Potosí. James was born into a life of privilege at the turn of the 20th century, staggeringly rich and reputed to be the illegitimate son of King Edward VII. His sensitive nature and fantastical way of seeing the world meant he didn’t get far in formal education and the traditional life of the aristocracy in Britain. He soon veered off into the arts, making friends with the likes of Salvador Dalí and stepping into his lifelong role as a patron of the arts.
When James came to Mexico in the 1930s, he fell in love – like so many visitors do – with its vibrance, culture and scale. In the bright humidity of the Huasteca Potosina, he began to construct a home that over the years would become a beacon for artists and thinkers, a place strange and wild enough to house his own free spirit.
He would walk among the rock pools and bathe naked in the waterfalls, deciding whether or not he had the forest’s blessing to visit which pools depending on whether a flutter of butterflies gathered around him. On one such occasion, he was washing his hair when he saw what looked like a troupe of penguins coming towards him. Rubbing the suds from his eyes, the penguins dissolved into a line of nuns from the local church. Embarrassed, he asked how he could help and upon hearing they needed a clinic for the poor, he promised to build it right away if they would only give him a minute to get dressed.
Edward James loved his surroundings and worked with local artisans to bring his singular vision to life. The concrete staircases to nowhere and doors standing like portals to the infinite blend spectacularly into the tropical greenery of Las Pozas, drawing in visitors from all around the world.
Leonora Carrington
Leonora Carrington’s “And Then We Saw the Daughter of the Minotaur,” 1953. Her work is on display across much of her adoptive Mexico. (MoMA)
Anyone who has stared intently at a Leonora Carrington sculpture and felt the otherworldly creature stare back, recognizes the power and sheer strangeness of her work. The playful composition of Carrington’s “Cocodrilos,” passed by millions each year along Mexico City’s Paseo de la Reforma, gives the impression it has floated straight out of a book of fairy tales. Like so much of her work though, it could just have easily loomed up from the underworld.
Carrington fled war-torn Europe in the 1940s and established a life for herself in Mexico — like her good friend Edward James — far from her aristocratic upbringing. Her struggles with mental health and time spent watching a continent on the edge of darkness ensured her dreamscapes were never simply an escape from reality, but contained within them its totality, grim omens and all. Carrington lived most of her life in Mexico City, producing prolifically, weaving folk art and indigenous mythologies into her own personal cosmovision. Her home in Roma Norte still contains original pieces, and while the house is currently closed to the public, Carrington’s work can be seen throughout the country in her public sculptures and paintings exhibited in museums.
Currently, the best place to see a collection of her work in Mexico is the state of San Luis Potosí. Both San Luis city and the town of Xilitla have permanent Leonora Carrington museums that house her paintings, illustrations, textiles, etchings and jewelry. Walking around Xilitla, you simply have to look out over the rooftops to see her sculptures peeking back at you.
Aldous Huxley
Aldous Huxley, one of the great British writers of the 20th century, called Mexico home for much of his career. (National Portait Gallery)
Aldous Huxley, the cerebral English author and philosopher, found new ways of looking at the world wherever he chose to direct his attention. Having begun his writing career as a keen social satirist of the British class system, he came to Mexico in the early 1950s, seeking an environment where he could explore the grander ideas of consciousness and mysticism.
Huxley’s journeys through southern Mexico, captured in the book of essays “Beyond the Mexique Bay,” gifted him with a rich cultural and ethnobotanical context for his later journeys into altered states of consciousness.
Frances Erskine Inglis, 1st Marquise of Calderón de la Barca
Francis Erskine Inglis, Madame Calderón de la Barca was an early travel writer, whose accounts of life in Mexico thrilled many in Europe. (INAH)
Fanny, as she was familiarly known, was the ultimate upper-echelon Scottish lady adventurer. As the charming young wife of the Spanish plenipotentiary envoy come to negotiate Spain’s recognition of Mexican independence, she had unrestricted access everywhere and anywhere in Mexico. Very well endowed by nature and fortune, she was reportedly bright, beautiful and talented. As heiress to Scotland’s largest brewing fortune, Fanny was also extremely wealthy.
Fanny wrote the ultimate travel narrative of the 19th century, “Life in Mexico,” published under the name Madame Calderón de la Barca in Boston and London in 1843. Her observations and insights are so alluring that she is rumored to have become a principal intelligence source for the United States’ invasion of Mexico in 1847.
Truth to tell, as I talked to some of my British friends who have lived and worked in Mexico for years, I unearthed many more fascinating Brits who chose to flee to these southern latitudes and made quite a dent.
The stories of the English novelists D.H Lawrence and Graham Greene and the Irish (who was then British) freedom fighter William Lamport — who inspired the legend of Zorro and actually crafted one of the first plans for Mexican independence — are scintillating tales for later this month. I always like to end on a cliffhanger; just like any Brit that’s adventured to — and got hooked on – Mexico!
Henrietta Weekes is a writer, editor, actor and narrator. She divides her time between San Miguel de Allende, New York and Oxford, UK.
To read more in the Global Mexico: UK in Focus series, click here.
The killing of a chicken as part of the Indigenous religious ceremony drew protests outside the Senate in Mexico City. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)
A ritual sacrifice, in which a chicken was killed as an offering to a pre-Columbian rain god, was held in an unlikely location on Wednesday — the Mexican Senate.
During the sacrificial ceremony, the chicken was killed as an offering to the god Tláloc, who was worshipped by several pre-Columbian Indigenous peoples, and continues to command a healthy respect in modern-day Mexico.
Oaxaca Senator Adolfo Gómez (in a white shirt holding a baton) observes as the sacrifice of a live chicken is conducted in an outdoor area of the Senate complex in Mexico City on Wednesday. (Cuartoscuro)
Organized by the Indigenous Mixtec senator for Oaxaca Adolfo Gómez, the ceremony took place in an outdoor area of the Senate building on el Día de la Lluvia, or Rain Day.
While rain is desperately needed in drought-stricken Mexico, many of Gómez’s fellow senators, and others, expressed their disapproval of the Morena party senator’s attempt to invoke precipitation with the killing of a chicken in the Senate.
Video footage shows that the chicken’s head was severed by a woman dressed in traditional dress before a man enveloped the decapitated bird in ritual smoke.
Gómez — who previously found himself in the media spotlight after he refused to pay to enter the Monte Albán archaeological site because “my ancestors built it” — justified his organization of the ceremony by pointing to Article 2 of the Mexican Constitution, which sets out a range of rights for Indigenous peoples.
“There is a law above the local law. I’m referring to the second article of the constitution, … [which] expressly … respects Indigenous people’s way of living,” the senator said.
In Mexico City, where the federal Senate is located, the local animal protection law has recently been strengthened, and one article prohibits the use of animals in rituals or traditions if their “well-being” is affected by such celebrations. In addition, Senate protocols prohibit animals in the building.
Oaxaca Senator Adolfo Gómez, who has been in office since 2021, is an Indigenous Mixtec. Many of his constituents claim Indigenous ancestry. (Adolfo Gómez/Twitter)
Senate President Ana Lilia Rivera, who also represents Morena, said in a statement that the sacrificial killing of the chicken was carried out “under the strict individual responsibility” of Gómez, “who justified the action under … usos y costumbres,” an indigenous governing code that translates to “uses and customs.”
She said that Gómez — who apparently smuggled the chicken into the Senate building — had been told that “the entry of any kind of animal to the building” was not allowed, “in accordance with current safety and civil protection protocols.”
“In the Senate of the Republic, intensive work has been carried out for the recognition, defense and promotion of animal rights, and for that reason, its president doesn’t support in any way the events that occurred and will take appropriate disciplinary measures,” Rivera’s statement added.
Senator Ricardo Monreal, Morena’s leader in the upper house, said that most of the ruling party’s lawmakers didn’t agree with the event organized by their colleague.
Independent Senator Emilio Álvarez Icaza also spoke out against the sacrifice of the chicken, saying “the Senate is not the place for that.”
“If it has a religious dimension or cultural spiritual dimension, it’s like coming to the Senate to hold Mass,” he said, adding that while he respects people’s religious beliefs, the Senate isn’t the place to hold ceremonies related to them.
Many social media users also criticized the killing of the chicken in the Senate, while animal rights activists protested outside the legislative building on Thursday. One animal rights organization said it would file a criminal complaint against Gómez for animal abuse.
President López Obrador has railed against the annual human rights report issued by the U.S. Department of State most of the week at his morning press conferences. (Cuartoscuro)
The United States government’s annual human rights report on Mexico has once again drawn the ire of President Andrés Manuel López Obrador, who asserted that the document contains false information and is disrespectful of Mexico’s sovereignty.
The U.S. Department of State (DOS) published its “2023 Country Reports on Human Rights Practices” on Monday.
Its report on Mexico once again identified “significant human rights issues” including “credible reports” of a range of abuses, among which were:
Unlawful or arbitrary killings, including extrajudicial killings
Enforced disappearance
Torture or cruel, inhuman, or degrading treatment or punishment by security forces
Harsh and life-threatening prison conditions
Arbitrary arrest or detention
Serious restrictions on freedom of expression and media freedom, including violence against journalists
Extensive gender-based violence
The DOS cited reports of a range of specific alleged violations of human rights last year.
The DOS said that the “government generally took credible steps to identify and punish officials who may have committed human rights abuses” — soldiers involved in the incidents cited above were detained — but it raised broader concerns about impunity.
The report highlighted extrajudicial killings by Mexico’s armed forces, including two incidents in Nuevo Laredo in 2023. (Carlos Alberto Carbajal/Cuartoscuro)
“Criminal elements, including local and transnational gangs and narcotics traffickers, were significant perpetrators of violent crimes and committed acts of homicide, torture, kidnapping, extortion, human trafficking, bribery, intimidation, and other threats, resulting in high levels of violence and exploitation. The government investigated and prosecuted some of these crimes, but the majority remained un-investigated and un-prosecuted,” the department said.
AMLO: ‘We’re respectful of them and they should be respectful of us’
After asserting at his Tuesday morning press conference that the United States is “not accustomed to respecting the sovereignty” of other nations, López Obrador noted that the State Department had published a new report “saying that in Mexico human rights are violated.”
He accused U.S. authorities of “positioning themselves as the judges of the world” before declaring: “We’re respectful of them and they should be respectful of us.”
AMLO added: “We don’t say to them: Why are you harassing a candidate [Donald Trump] in the courts? Why do you allocate billions of dollars to war? Why don’t you free [Julian] Assange? … Why don’t you attend to the young people in the United States who die due to drug addition, fentanyl addiction? And why do you mistreat migrants?”
AMLO hosted Julian Assange’s father (left) and brother (right) in Mexico last April. The president has long advocated for Assange’s release. (Lopezobrador.org.mx)
“We don’t issue a letter of good conduct [for other countries] because it’s not our responsibility,” he told reporters on Tuesday.
‘Who are they to get involved?’
In one section of its 58-page report, the DOS said that in 2023, “President López Obrador and other government actors verbally attacked the judiciary, particularly the Supreme Court, criticizing judges who ruled against the administration on numerous occasions.”
The department also noted that in March last year, “the digital news site Animal Político reported that pro-López Obrador accounts disseminated more than 20,000 tweets in an online smear campaign against the recently elected president of the Supreme Court, Norma Lucía Piña Hernández, who often ruled against López Obrador’s government in judicial decisions.”
On Wednesday, AMLO took umbrage at what he characterized as the United States government’s “meddling in the issue of the differences we have with the judicial power.”
“Who are they to get involved? What is the legal foundation? Who authorizes them to get involved?” asked the president, who frequently accuses the judiciary of handing down decisions that favor people he describes as the country’s corrupt elite.
Norma Piña, the Supreme Court’s chief justice, has been heavily criticized by President López Obrador. (Cuartoscuro)
The State Department is “flagrantly violating international law, independence, the sovereignty of the people,” López Obrador claimed.
He also asserted that the U.S. government, for at least two centuries, has had an “obsession” with “interfering in the domestic policy of other countries,” including by “intervening militarily” in some of them.
“That’s the history,” said López Obrador, who has touted the “good relationship” Mexico has had with the United States under his leadership and during the administrations of both former president Trump and current President Joe Biden.
“… We’ve been working well on economic cooperation maters, the relationship is convenient, … we are the main trade partner of the United States,” he said Wednesday.
“… In the United States there are too many contradictions within the government: one thing is what the White House thinks, another thing is what the CIA does, what the DEA does, what [Antony] Blinken does at the State Department,” López Obrador added.
‘Just as our adversaries here in Mexico lie, the State Department lies’
López Obrador railed against the human rights report for a third consecutive day on Thursday, accusing the DOS of publishing false information.
Despite the fiery rhetoric from AMLO this week about the U.S. Department of State, the president and Secretary of State Antony Blinken have met numerous times and have mostly characterized their relationship as collaborative. (Presidency/Cuartoscuro)
“Just as our adversaries here in Mexico lie, the State Department of the government of the United States lies,” he said before criticizing the agency for “not presenting any proof” that 20,000 tweets against the Supreme Court chief justice were in fact posted online.
“… It’s very regrettable that the Department of State relies on garbage information from our adversaries,” AMLO said.
He also said that the world’s largest supplier of weapons — including many that illegally cross the border to Mexico — shouldn’t be offering advice on human rights.
“The only thing [to do] is to ask the State Department to review their recommendations because they are in breach of sovereignty. … Who are they to issue letters of good conduct to countries and sovereign people. They say they’ve been doing it since 1977 – well, stop it, it’s obsolete,” López Obrador said.
Department of State: rights report ‘certainly’ not a breach of international law
Asked about López Obrador’s criticism at a press briefing on Wednesday, DOS spokesperson Vedant Patel rejected the assertion that the publication of the human rights report is a violation of international law, saying that was “certainly” not the case.
“It’s something that we have done every year that this secretary [Blinken] has been secretary and for every year almost before that,” he said.
“… Again, I’ve said this a number of times this week: the human rights report is not a United States assessment on these various anecdotes and entries that are in there. It is a compilation of entries made from credible inputs — media organizations, government organizations, civil society actors, our embassies and consulates,” Patel said.
The British Embassy in Mexico shares a vision for the bilateral relationship in 2024. (Shutterstock)
The British Embassy in Mexico has set ambitious goals for 2024, including strengthening trade and investment opportunities, championing climate action and fostering cultural and educational exchange.
We want to share a quick overview of our work and our plans for the year and beyond.
Bicentennial celebrations
In 2023, the diplomatic relationship between the United Kingdom and Mexico reached a significant milestone as the two countries celebrated two centuries of friendship. The Embassy is planning a year-long jubilee in 2024, in tandem with institutions such as the British Council, the Anglo Foundation, the Instituto Nacional Politécnico, Raindance Festival, and many others, to showcase the profound bonds shared by the U.K. and Mexico.
From art exhibitions and literary festivals to culinary showcases and musical performances, the bicentenary celebrations will serve as a testament to the enduring friendship and cultural exchange between both nations, fostering greater appreciation and understanding between people.
Fostering trade and investment
One of the Embassy’s missions is to drive trade and investment between the United Kingdom and Mexico, placing a special emphasis on innovative services and eco-friendly technologies geared towards curbing carbon emissions. Moreover, the Embassy is committed to supporting British enterprises that invest in Mexico, thus creating high-quality employment opportunities and boosting economic growth. By nurturing cross-border partnerships and facilitating trade missions, the Embassy is cultivating a thriving ecosystem of commerce that benefits both countries.
Collaborative diplomacy
Collaboration knows no bounds, and for the Embassy it is key to forge partnerships and alliances with like-minded diplomatic missions and international organizations. Through this approach, we aim at enhancing our capacity to address global challenges and provide consular assistance and support to British citizens in need, ensuring their safety and well-being abroad.
Strengthening bilateral ties
The Embassy has a great interest in bolstering the trade ties between countries. This includes working towards the ratification of the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) by mid-2024, while advancing bilateral negotiations and promoting mutual understanding and cooperation. Through diplomatic engagements and strategic dialogues, the Embassy endeavors to keep fostering a climate of trust and collaboration between the United Kingdom and Mexico, paving the way for increased political cooperation and shared prosperity.
Promoting shared values
Deep-rooted in the Embassy’s ethos is the commitment to fostering collaboration with Mexico on democratic principles and the rule of law. With the aim of strengthening democratic institutions and promoting good governance practices, our teams offer capacity-building initiatives and knowledge-sharing platforms. By doing so, the Embassy aims ensures the protection of human rights and the rule of law while navigating multifaceted and challenging geopolitical landscapes.
Cybersecurity synergy
In the digital world, the Embassy is working on establishing robust partnerships with Mexican authorities on issues of cybersecurity. The goal is to create proactive strategies that can prevent cyber threats and ensure inclusivity and resilience in the digital domain. By collaborating on cybersecurity initiatives and information-sharing mechanisms, the Embassy strives to enhance cyber defense capabilities and mitigate emerging threats.
Championing climate action
The battle against climate change is one of the Embassy’s top missions and commitments. Through the support of the UK PACT, it is empowering state governments to navigate the complexities of decarbonization by creating updated regulatory frameworks. By promoting sustainable development practices and green technologies, the Embassy is fostering the acceleration of the transition to a low-carbon economy and mitigating the impacts of climate change. Through partnerships with Mexican government agencies, civil society organizations, and the private sector, the Embassy is mobilizing resources and expertise to address the urgent challenges posed by climate change and build a more sustainable and resilient future for all.
Enhancing the work environment
Internally, the Embassy has as a mission to keep fostering an environment of inclusivity and positivity through policies and practices. By promoting diversity and inclusion in the workplace and providing opportunities for professional development and growth, the Embassy is empowering its employees by creating a culture of excellence and innovation.
Showcasing British tourism
Mexico is a desired destination for British nationals. Thus, the Embassy helps in promoting the country’s stunning landscapes and supporting British expatriates living in Mexico. Through cultural exchange and tourism promotion of Mexico diverse, cultural heritage, the Embassy is strengthening people-to-people ties and cross-cultural understanding and appreciation between the United Kingdom and Mexico.
In summary, the British Embassy in Mexico is embarking on a fruitful and impactful journey in 2024, with a strong commitment to fortify the enduring bond between both countries and build a brighter future for generations to come. Through innovation, collaboration, and shared values, the Embassy is paving the way for a more prosperous, sustainable, and inclusive partnership between the United Kingdom and Mexico, grounded in mutual respect, trust, and most importantly, friendship.
Written by Fernanda Esquivel, press and communications assistant at the British Embassy in Mexico.
To read more in the Global Mexico: UK in Focus series, click here.
Handshake Speakeasy was this year's #1, the first Mexican bar to top the list. (Facebook)
In a night of celebration for the North American bar scene, Mexico City’s Handshake Speakeasy stole the show, becoming the first-ever Mexican bar to be crowned number one in the prestigious North America’s 50 Best Bars list.
The announcement at a live ceremony held on Tuesday at the Rosewood, in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, marks a significant moment for the bar and the country’s cocktail culture. Handshake Speakeasy, known for its innovative and modern approach to mixology, has led the Mexican drinks scene since opening its doors in 2021. If you are not in Mexico City, you can taste their menu at Tunki by Handshake, the rooftop bar at Casa Sierra Nevada, a Belmond Hotel in San Miguel de Allende.
Handshake Speakeasy’s team is known for its experimentation and creativity. (Facebook)
“It’s like a dream,” said bar director Eric Van Beek. “There are so many great new bars working hard this year.” Marcos Di Battista, co-founder of the bar, added, “We were missing a little bit and we said let’s see what else we can do until we achieved it, we never stopped trying and…perseverance is reflected in being number one. We were number two for two years and we were very happy and we continue working in the same way and as the saying goes, he who gives up does not get the prize.”
Handshake Speakeasy has built a reputation for its unique and mind-bending cocktails, achieved through extensive experimentation in its “lab.” Where the team crafts syrups, clarifies juices, and infuses cordials, resulting in creations like the “Cariño,” a hybrid of piña colada, daiquiri, and mojito made with Greek yogurt.
Mexico makes a strong showing on the 50 Best 2024 list
Licorería Limantour, in the Roma Norte neighborhood of Mexico City, which came in at #9 on the list. (Licorería Limantour)
Mexico’s success wasn’t limited to just Handshake Speakeasy. The country saw a strong showing, with several other bars from Mexico claiming spots on the list. Rayo, a bar in Mexico City dedicated to the agave goddess Mayahuel, secured the fifth position. Other standouts include Licorería Limantour (#9), Tlecān (#10), Zapote Bar in Playa Del Carmen (#11), El Gallo Altanero in Guadalajara (#14), Café de Nadie (#17), Baltra (#26), Bekeb in San Miguel de Allende (#27), the all-female-run Japanese izakaya Kaito del Valle (#28), Selva in Oaxaca (#34), and Arca in Tulum (#37).
A North American celebration
The ceremony wasn’t just a celebration for Mexico. The United States boasted 26 entries, with several newcomers from Chicago making their debut on the list.
Toronto’s Civil Liberties, No.21, wins the title of The Best Bar in Canada, sponsored by Naked Malt, alongside Puerto Rico’s La Factoría, at No.18, recognized as The Best Bar in the Caribbean, sponsored by Amaro Lucano.
One of the most iconic moments of this award ceremony was when ClaudiaCabrera, head bartender of Kaito del Valle, who received the Roku Industry Icon Award 2024. Her unwavering support for other women in the industry, her expertise in making quality cocktails and her interest in the Mexican bartending community were all reasons that the Roku Industry Icon Award 2024 recognized her work.
A Toast to the future
The North America’s 50 Best Bars list is a testament to the creativity and dedication of the region’s bar industry. Handshake Speakeasy’s win symbolizes Mexico’s growing influence on the global cocktail scene, paving the way for a future filled with innovative drinks and a renewed appreciation for Mexican culture.
