6 epic ways to celebrate your birthday in Mexico City

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February 2, 2025

birthday Mexico City — Happy birthday to you. Now, how are you going to spend it? (Chilango)

Your yearly existential crisis may be approaching, but this year, make your birthday a fun and unforgettable one a la Mexico City! While another trip around the sun might not guarantee wisdom, we can at least promise you a good time with our guide to celebrating your birthday in the beautiful capital city that knows how to have a proper celebration. From quinceañera-inspired glamour to trajinera debauchery, we’ve compiled a plan for a variety of dream birthday scenarios.

Before choosing your perfect Mexico City birthday adventure, here are some essential party-planning resources to get the festivities started right: For basic celebration supplies like balloons, candles and gift bags, head to major grocery chains like Soriana or La Comer. Want to keep things authentically Mexican? Find a festive piñata at a dedicated store along Circuito Interior in Cuauhtémoc or San Rafael, where you’ll find everything from traditional star shapes to Pixar characters to custom designs. No birthday is complete without cake: pick up a gorgeous creation from Clo Patisserie or embrace tradition with a classic Mexican pastry from Pasteleria Ideal, where the multilayered cakes are local legends. With these basics covered and your party supplies secured, you’re ready to explore our birthday adventure options and create unforgettable memories in CDMX. Now, choose your celebration style…

Potluck picnic in Chapultepec Park

Best for those who like a little nature and calm — or need to include kids and dogs — settle on a slice of Chapultepec Park for your birthday festivities. This sprawling green space, twice the size of Central Park, is the ultimate sunny spot to kick off your next year with fresh air and optimism. There are multiple nooks for a gathering, including next to the park’s lake for peak people-watching. Pro tip: Pack a charcuterie spread from one of La Europea’s many shops around the city or let Marne Panaderia in nearby San Miguel Chapultepec neighborhood handle the pastries. And yes, those paddle boats are totally acceptable birthday entertainment, even if you’re pushing 50.

From axes to karaoke

Karaoke birthday Mexico City — Celebrate your inner diva, it’s your birthday after all. (Brandi Alexandra/Unsplash)

For those who like to get their birthday angst out by engaging in play and song, Mexico City offers a bounty of activities. And nothing says “Happy Birthday” quite like throwing sharp objects around. For these delightfully cathartic activities, Club del Patio Roma offers everything from axe throwing to baseball cages to table games, all in a carnival-esque setting complete with colorful cocktails, chicken wings, burgers and other exotic delicacies. Inclined to burst out in song? Bar Oriente in Roma offers private karaoke rooms nestled within a bouncing nightclub. Want a little bit of both? Royal Bol in Santa Fe brings you the best of both worlds with private Korean-style karaoke rooms and a bowling alley. Because in CDMX, who says you can’t have it all?

The quinceañera experience

So what if you’re hitting middle age? Channel your inner quinceañera with a full-blown celebration that would make any Mexican teenager proud. The formula: rent a stretch limo, break out your most outrageous formal wear and cruise the city like it’s 1999. On any given weekend, you’ll spot these celebratory convoys, from stretch Hummers to party buses, bumping and grinding through Reforma with neon lights and music on full blast, packed with teenage revelers living their best lives. Watch as they spill out onto the streets for impromptu photo sessions, striking poses against the Angel of Independence or the glittering towers on Reforma. Throw on some reggaeton beats and sip on cocktails in souvenir glasses. Whether you’re 15 or 55, there’s something liberating about embracing the over-the-top pageantry. Don’t forget the essentials: a mandatory sparkling tiara and main character energy for your own coming-of-age story — even if you came of age so decades ago.

Fiesta in Xochimilco

There ain’t no party like a Xochimilco party. (Victoria Valtierra/Cuartoscuro)

Booze and boating don’t often mix well — unless it’s in the Xochimilco canals. For the ultimate celebration, Xochimilco offers an experience that’s something like a mix of bumper boats, mariachi, floating snacks and limitless margaritas. Revelers board the iconic colorful trajineras — traditional flat-bottomed boats — that transform into floating party platforms. Trajinera rentals typically come with an arsenal of micheladas, mixed cocktails and beers, then drift through the ancient canal system while mariachi bands weave between boats, serenading your group with melodies. The festive atmosphere is infectious, with neighboring boats joining in spontaneous celebrations. Pro tip: Negotiate with the mariachi bands directly for personalized performances.

Chill and classy

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A post shared by Casa Prunes (@casaprunes)

For those seeking a touch of sophistication, start your evening with carefully mixed cocktails at Casa Prunes, a stunning Art Nouveau mansion in Roma built in 1916. The historic setting, complete with original stained glass and ornate woodwork, provides the perfect backdrop for toasting to a fabulous year ahead. While Casa Prunes offers dinner service, we suggest you venture out to either Carmela y Sal, where Chef Gabriela Cámara’s crafts her unique take on contemporary Mexican cuisine, or Nostos, where the deliciousness of Mediterranean food and warmth of Greek hospitality meets an intimate setting that feels both upscale yet approachable. Both venues strike that perfect birthday sweet spot: elevated enough to feel celebratory, but relaxed enough that you can still carry a conversation with friends.

Dance ’till you drop

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A post shared by Ling Ling Mexico City (@linglingmexicocity)

For those seeking a full-on party night, begin your birthday celebrations at Ling Ling on the top floor of the Ritz Carlton on Reforma, where dim sum and 360 degree city views create the perfect start. The people-watching is as engaging as the vistas, set against a backdrop of gorgeous decor— cloud ceilings, anyone? After dinner, head to Café Paraíso, where tropical vibes and eclectic music will have you dancing until the wee hours. Cap off your birthday adventure at House of Boogie, an underground venue that boasts infectious house beats and a diverse crowd. Here, the intimate dance floor stays packed until the early hours, making it an ideal spot to dance your way into another year of life.

Birthday plans for all

Whether you choose an intimate cocktail evening, a raucous party night or a family-friendly outing, Mexico City offers birthday celebrations for every interest. What are some of your favorite ways to celebrate in CDMX? Let us know in the comments below.

Monica Belot is a writer, researcher, strategist and adjunct professor at Parsons School of Design in New York City, where she teaches in the Strategic Design & Management Program. Splitting her time between NYC and Mexico City, where she resides with her naughty silver Labrador puppy Atlas, Monica writes about topics spanning everything from the human experience to travel and design research. Follow her varied scribbles on Medium at medium.com/@monicabelot.

A guide to Yelapa, Jalisco: Mexico’s hidden boho beach escape

By

Meagan Drillinger

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February 2, 2025

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A guide to Yelapa, Jalisco — Yelapa, Jalisco offers a quiet, authentic beach escape within driving distance of bustling Puerto Vallarta. (Vallarta Lifestyles)

There are plenty of places to slow down in Puerto Vallarta, but the small seaside village of Yelapa is its own thing entirely. Perched on the southern coast of the Bay of Banderas, Yelapa is a place where time slows, cell service disappears, and you’re literally stuck between the beach and a jungle hike. This car-free fishing village remains one of Mexico’s last great escapes — a rustic, sun-drenched spot where flip-flops are optional and the town’s only ‘roads’ are winding footpaths.

Yelapa isn’t for everyone — there’s no ATM, no cars, and WiFi that works when it feels like it. But for those craving a place where life slows to the rhythm of the tides, where the biggest decisions revolve around tacos and tequila, and where adventure and relaxation meld together, Yelapa is paradise.

Getting to Yelapa

Yelapa Beach is bathed by emerald waters with gentle waves, suitable for swimming and water activities such as snorkeling, diving, kayaking, paragliding, parasailing and even sport fishing. — Yelapa Beach is bathed by emerald waters with gentle waves, suitable for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. (Visit Puerto Vallarta)

Yelapa isn’t a place you stumble upon — you have to seek it out. There are no roads in or out, so the only way to arrive is by boat. Your adventure begins at the Los Muertos Pier in Puerto Vallarta, where water taxis leave multiple times a day, or from Boca de Tomatlán, a small village 30 minutes south of PV, where smaller boats make the trip more frequently. Either way, expect a bumpy but beautiful 45-minute ride across the turquoise Bay of Banderas, with pelicans gliding overhead and the occasional dolphin sighting.

Pro tip: Pack light. Water taxis require a nimble exit, often right onto the beach, so you’ll want luggage you can handle without looking like a floundering tourist.

Where to stay in Yelapa

Casa Bahia Bonita, Yelapa — Casa Bahia Bonita offers stunning views of Yelapa’s bay. (TripAdvisor)

Yelp’s accommodations range from lovely Airbnbs to boutique hotels and jungle retreats, each with its own off-the-grid magic.

Casa Papaya — A dreamy oceanview casita with an outdoor kitchen and living space. The rooms are basic, but the views are unbeatable.
Casa Pericos — Indonesia meets Mexico at this palapa-topped beachfront hotel. Three lofts are available to rent, including a two-story 2,500-square-foot Penthouse with a private soaking pool.
Casa Bahia Bonita: This hillside retreat has spacious rooms, stunning ocean views, and easy access to both the beach and town. I recommend the cabins, which have gorgeous views of the bay.
Verana — The splurge-worthy option. A secluded, design-forward jungle retreat with private plunge pools and an infinity-edge spa.
Santuario Yelapa: Another splurge, but yogis won’t mind the expense. This peaceful haven offers yoga, meditation, and holistic healing experiences. Plus, the geometric pod rooms are beautifully designed.

Things to do: Adventure and beach bliss

This picturesque fishing village, nestled in a small bay about 20 minutes by road south of Puerto Vallarta, is the departure point for pangas and water taxis to other paradisiacal beaches such as Las Ánimas, Playa Caballo, Quimixto and Yelapa. — Nestled in a small bay about 20 minutes by road south of Puerto Vallarta, Boca de Tomotlán is the departure point for pangas and water taxis to other paradisiacal beaches such as Las Ánimas, Playa Caballo, Quimixto and Yelapa. (Visit Puerto Vallarta)

Yelapa may be small, but it’s packed with just enough to keep things interesting. Yelapa’s pedestrian pathways twist through a maze of colorful homes, local shops, and jungle backdrops. There’s no rush here — get lost, pet a few lazy street dogs, and soak in the laid-back energy.

Meanwhile, the cultural Museo Yelapa is a tiny but fascinating spot detailing Yelapa’s history, indigenous roots, and evolution from a fishing village to a bohemian hideaway.

For those who want to work the leg muscles, there are two waterfall hikes to choose from. The first is just a short walk from town and is great for a quick dip. The second, a more challenging trek into the jungle, rewards hikers with a secluded, cascading paradise.

Undeniably the star of the show in Yelapa is its golden stretch of sand. The main beach is the heart of the action, lined with palapa-shaded restaurants and friendly vendors selling everything from ceviche to silver. Rent a kayak, sip a michelada, or simply stretch out in the sun.

Where to eat & drink in Yelapa

Sirena Morena, Yelapa, Jalisco — Refuel at one of Yelapa’s great lunch spots, like Sirena Morena. (Sirena Morena/Instagram)

Food in Yelapa is unfussy, and you may notice a lot of restaurants lacking reviews, or that many reviews for restaurants in Yelapa are somewhat disappointing. But trust me — if you know where to go, you’ll find a great meal (or several) in Yelapa.

For breakfast, take yourself to Cafe Bahia for its strong coffee, homemade granola, and crunchy chilaquiles. Grab a seat on the patio and watch the boats come in.

If you’re looking for killer tacos, Tacos Los Abuelos is exceptional. Their handmade blue corn tortillas are piled high with a choice of shrimp, fish, steak, al pastor — you name it. And don’t sleep on their overstuffed burritos.

I never miss an opportunity to visit Pollo Bollo, a hole-in-the-wall serving perfectly grilled chicken, fish, and loads of fixings.

Then there is El Manguito, perched above the river serving up fresh seafood and ice-cold beer. Or Chico’s, a beachfront classic for shrimp tacos, icy micheladas, and prime sunset views.

Speaking of Micheladas, you’re going to want to snag one from Micheladas Vicky, the best stand in town. If you need a snack with your drink, get the michelada topped with plump, fresh shrimp. And don’t miss the Yelapa Pie Lady. No trip to Yelapa is complete without a slice of legendary homemade pie, created by the Pie Lady herself, Chelly Rodriguez. Try the chocolate, banana, or coconut slices. But really, you can’t go wrong with any of them.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

State by Plate: A trio of culinary pleasures in Guanajuato

By

Chris Sands

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February 2, 2025

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a mexican torta guacamaya sandwich — The state of Guanajuato is home to three national delicacies - the Torta Guacamaya, Strawberries and Cajeta. (Canva)

Appropriately, each of Guanajuato’s three largest cities is indelibly associated with a particular specialty food item. León, the state’s largest city by population, with more than 1.7 million people, is famed as the inventor of one of the country’s most colorful and flavorful tortas. Irapuato, its second largest city with nearly 600,000 residents, is the “strawberry capital of the world,” with the jams and desserts to prove it. Celaya, the third largest city, invented cajeta, one of Mexico’s most distinctive and beloved sweets.

León and its tortas guacamayas

Torta Guacamaya, Guanajuato food — The torta guacamaya is an iconic culinary favorite created in Guanajuato. (Estado de Guanajuato)

Mexican tortas date back to the 1890s when they were first invented in Mexico City. However, the emblematic Guanajuato version wasn’t created in León until the early 1950s at the corner of Centenario and Rio Bravo streets on the border of two neighborhoods: San Juan de Dios and San Miguel. That’s where a chicharrón vendor named Don Deme was plying his trade in 1952 when two drunk customers showed up, precipitating a series of alleged events that birthed a legend.

Somehow all the ingredients of the new sandwich were assembled — bolillo bread, chicharrón, spicy árbol chili salsa, pico de gallo, perhaps avocado and a squeeze of lime — and one of the tequila-fueled customers became so colorful in his addled ranting that his friend told him he looked like a guacamaya: Spanish for macaw. The name stuck and the sandwiches have been thusly called ever since.

Did it really happen that way? Your guess is as good as mine. But Guanajuato is one of only five states legally permitted to make tequila, so drinking it with your torta, especially if it were a state-made variety like Corralejo from Pénjamo, could be construed as an act of regional loyalty — even if you were to end up resembling a parrot by lunchtime.

But regardless of its true origins, there’s no doubt that the guacamaya is a delicious sandwich, that many other renowned vendors soon took up its cause, from Don Diego to Don Chuy, and that it retains an exalted status in the city’s culinary firmament.

Irapuato, the strawberry capital of the world

Strawberry pie — Irapuato’s strawberries are some of the best in the world. (aheadofthyme.com)

Of course, Guanajuatenses are experts at more than just the skillful blending of ingredients. They’re good at growing them, too. Guanajuato is a strong vegetable grower, producing far more broccoli, for instance, than any other state in Mexico and generating significant revenues via green chilies.

Fruits are likewise plentiful. Guanajuato is a top harvester of raspberries, blackberries, and strawberries, turning out about 20% of the country’s annual total of the latter. The center of this abundance of strawberries is Irapuato, better known as the “strawberry capital of the world,” a moniker that became associated with the city at the height of its productivity in the 1960s.

However, Irapuato’s history with strawberries began much earlier. Local politician Don Nicolás Tejada jumpstarted the local industry in 1852 when he brought 24 strawberry plants to the area from France. These were established in the Moussier area on the bank of the Guanajuato River, northeast of the city, and became the seeds of what would eventually become Irapuato’s claim to agricultural fame.

Irapuato strawberries — Strawberries are everywhere at Cristalita, a souvenir shop in Irapuato, the “strawberry capital of the world.” (Cristalita)

But two other 19th-century pioneers were also crucial advocates: German horticulturist Oscar Droege, who brought Old World growing techniques to the area, and Joaquín Chico González, who began shipping Irapuato’s bounty to Mexico City via railway in the 1880s, ensuring its commercial success. With their help, strawberry production in Irapuato flourished. By the 1940s, it had become the most productive growing area nationwide.

Irapuato was eventually surpassed in strawberry-growing volume, but the city remains a major producer and a focal point for those who love the luscious red fruit. Its annual celebration, the Festival de la Fresa, is traditionally held in October or November and attracts a huge turnout: the 2022 edition drew an estimated 34,000 attendees. Local tourism authorities have also established a Strawberry Route so that visitors to the area can visit the strawberry fields and even pick their own.

La Cristalita in Irapuato has been the mandatory souvenir stop since 1965. The shop stocks strawberries in every conceivable form, from fresh and frozen to marmalades, syrups, juices, candies and gift baskets with a little of everything.

Celaya and its sweet cajeta

Cajeta Celaya style, Guanajuato food — Cajeta, prepared traditionally Celaya style. (La Tradicional de Salgado)

During the colonial period, before Guanajuato became known as the birthplace of Mexican independence, it was a haven for goats. These omnivorous livestock were prized for their milk, an ingredient in myriad regional sweets dating to the 16th century.

Cajeta grew out of the Spanish sweets tradition, but the addition of goat’s milk made it a uniquely Mexican confection. Historically, it has been made in copper pots with goat milk, sugar and cinnamon or vanilla stirred with long wooden spoons until the combination achieves a caramel-like consistency.

Named for the wooden containers, called “cajetes,” in which it was displayed, the sweet treat has since become ubiquitous in Mexican cuisine. It’s used to make candies or fillings for candy, a favored flavor in popsicles and pastries, a topping that can be poured over ice cream or drizzled into coffee or hot chocolate for extra sweetness. It’s also used in countless desserts, often as a substitute for caramel.

It’s not just beloved for its sweetness, however, but for its role as a symbol of independence. After Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla uttered his famed cry of rebellion in Dolores, Guanajuato in 1810, his revolutionary army soon seized control of Celaya. According to legend, it was here that cajeta was first made and became an essential ration for soldiers.

Cajeta had much to offer for wartime use: notably, it had a long shelf life, was easy to carry and provided abundant energy. It was also delicious, which qualified it as a morale booster. In 2010, 200 years after the war began, cajeta was officially named Mexico’s “bicentennial dessert.”

Since 2018, Celaya has celebrated its famous creation annually with a Festival de la Cajeta. The most recent edition was held from Aug. 29 to Sept.1, 2024, and drew over 23,000 attendees.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Is Airbnb ruining Los Cabos? A local’s opinion

By

Chris Sands

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February 1, 2025

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Los Cabos Airbnb — Los Cabos is having an Airbnb boom. Locals aren't happy. (Josh Withers)

I don’t need to google Airbnb to know which destinations have passed laws inspired, or at the very least have been affected, by the rental marketplace. My friends in Los Cabos have been sharing the information unsolicited. It’s understood among those who live here that Airbnb plays a big part in the ongoing housing problems in Los Cabos, resulting in too few homes or apartments being available and for significantly more money than these units commanded only two or three years ago.

So yes, I’m aware there are laws strictly regulating Airbnb rentals in many cities around the globe, including, notably, Barcelona and Mexico City. Barcelona is boldly banning all short-term rentals by the end of 2028 due to the housing crisis that has afflicted many popular vacation destinations. Mexico City has taken a more half-way approach (literally), as a new regulation stipulates landlords can rent out properties on sites like Airbnb for no more than half the days of the year.

Reporting on Barcelona’s upcoming rental ban, Euro News noted that for residents “the economic gains are not worth the negative impacts on their lives. With private landlords buying up apartments to rent them out to tourists, it is very difficult for locals to find places to live. Demand, of course, pushes up prices for the housing that is available.”

That’s precisely the crux of the issue. Naturally, the hope that underpins the sharing of these stories is that similar laws or regulations will be enacted here in Los Cabos.

Why tourists and digital nomads love Airbnb

Of course, Airbnb is a good resource for budget-minded travelers, one of the few remaining in Los Cabos. As cape cities Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo have increasingly embraced luxury travelers, average nightly room rates for area resorts have spiraled ever skyward, soaring past US $400 by 2022, and $500 by 2024.

Rental rates in Los Cabos are climbing ever higher as a result of high demand. (Hotel Tesoro Los Cabos)

Meanwhile, the average nightly rate for an Airbnb rental is about US $80 per night in Cabo San Lucas and $130 in San José del Cabo. Those aren’t the only rental marketplace options — VRBO and Booking.com, for example, also offer short-term rentals — and there are still a few good budget-friendly hotels in the area. However, there are fewer than there used to be.

So it’s understandable why tourists love having Airbnb as an accommodation alternative.

Why rental owners love Airbnb

The math for landlords with property to let has likewise become simple. If you’re renting out an apartment for 16,000 pesos a month and can rent it out on Airbnb for 1,600 pesos a night, you know you only have to occupy it for a minimum of 11 nights to make more from tourists than you could with locals. Or, conversely, you could use that knowledge to jack up the rate for locals, which is how modest one-bedroom apartments suddenly started going for 16,000 pesos per month, an unheard-of price only a couple of years ago.

Catering to the lucrative tourist market is worth more than the local one, a fact which has influenced many local landlords. (One&Only Palmilla)

Since the average Airbnb occupancy is 56% in Cabo San Lucas and 64% in San José del Cabo, the tourist model looks more profitable … assuming tourism numbers remain consistently strong month over month, which they rarely do.

Why most residents of Los Cabos hate Airbnb

However, it is worth noting that the owners of these properties represent a minuscule proportion of the local population. The latest statistics from Airbnb show just 1,600 rentals available in Cabo San Lucas, so even if these were all owned by separate individuals (they are not) this would amount to less than 1% of the population in a city of over 200,000.

No amount of profit justifies making so many suffer for the benefit of so few. Let us not forget that it’s not just beaches, golf courses, and year-round sunshine that draw four million or so tourists to Los Cabos each year. It’s the people who live here. That’s who gives the place its identity. That’s who provides the superb service at its resorts and the memorable food and drinks at its restaurants and bars, not to mention a hundred other things — from the artistic and the artisanal to the ordinary but essential services courtesy of cops, healthcare workers, and the like.

Panoramic view of Los Cabos' iconic beaches. — Cabo is more than beaches and golf courses — it’s a vibrant community too. (Finding Dan/Dan Grinwis/Unsplash)

Digital nomads and tourists may visit these communities but they’re not who makes them what they are or who gives them a unique color and character. They’re just passing through.

Unfortunately, residents — the heart and soul of Los Cabos — are increasingly being priced out. The siphoning of available home and apartment rentals for tourists and transients has not only sapped inventory for locals it has also driven rents through the proverbial roof. I couldn’t find statistics on this subject for Los Cabos, but an article from The New York Times about the same problem in Mexico City noted a rise of over 20% in one 10-month period in 2020. In Los Cabos, I would estimate rents have more than doubled area-wide in the last two to three years.

That should not be a surprise given Los Cabos, a municipality of 350,000, has surpassed Mexico City, a city whose extended area comprises more than 20 million people, in terms of money generated from short-term rentals: $320 million to $290 million as of 2023.

Why isn’t the government of Los Cabos addressing this issue?

I would never suggest depriving tourists of the joys of a Los Cabos vacation. But their luxury should not be at the expense of locals who are homeless or forced to leave. Many cities, from Amsterdam and Barcelona to New York and Paris, are taking a stand on behalf of their residents. They’re not shutting out tourists; they are merely putting safeguards in place to ensure their cities are livable for everyone.

Los Cabos has not addressed this issue substantively. You might think local politicians would side with the people who vote, but that’s not the case. Outside of addressing rental owners’ tax compliance, the local government has taken no meaningful steps to protect its citizenry from rent gouging or displacement.

So that’s what’s threatening to ruin Los Cabos in my opinion. Not companies like Airbnb, VRBO, and Booking.com, which will adapt to meet local regulations, but only if those regulations exist in the first place.

Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.

Como la flor: Adventures at the southern tip of Texas

By

Sarah DeVries

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February 1, 2025

7

I’ve been enjoying my travels in Texas for a couple weeks now.

The main reason was to help my dad get settled into yet another place. As I’ve discussed earlier, helping your parents when you live outside of their country is a tricky thing. It usually falls on my siblings, which is pretty guilt-inducing, so when I come, it’s got to count! Suffice it to say my dad’s new apartment looks awesome, though I can’t get him to learn how to access the Netflix account I signed him up for.

Real excited on a real windy day to be standing in front of the river that divides this part of Texas from Mexico. (Sarah DeVries)

That’s not what we spent our whole time on, though. We also got to see my stepdad, and we got to see snow, weirdly. Also, at long last, I finally have a working US phone number! The Texas driver’s license proved to be trickier than I’d predicted, so that will have to wait until next time.

Driving through the Lone Star state

A nice thing about visiting Texas is that my sister loves to take road trips. Since we had an extra weekend free, we decided to head south.

I’ve been living in Mexico for over 20 years now, but have not been to the border on either side.

McAllen, Texas city motto: “Why does this place exist.” Allegedly. (Wikivoyage)

I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve never wanted to travel too far south in Texas. I’ve also never questioned my own prejudices about it. That border cities like McAllen and Brownsville are not worth a trip is kind of a given in Texas. But why?

The short answer, I’m pretty sure, is racism. Because on the border live almost exclusively Latinos. White and Black people are a minority down there, and a very Spanglish-style Spanish is spoken by most people.

But let’s back it up just a tad to our first stop on the way down: Corpus Christi.

Selena’s hometown

Sarah at the Selena monument — My sister (Lisa), me, my friend Kathy, and the Selena monument behind us. (Sarah DeVries)

Corpus Christi is a beautiful little city on the Gulf. It has several tasty breweries, some impressive murals and a good-sized stretch of well-maintained ocean-side sidewalks and parks.

Corpus was also the home to one of Texas’ most famous late singers: Selena. Because one of my best friends in Mexico is a huge Selena fan — her birthday was a Selena karaoke-fest — I decided it was only right to pay homage.

in photo: my sister (Lisa), me, my friend Kathy, and the Selena monument behind us.

Corpus Christi’s monument to Selena is marked by a giant white flower on one side and a life-size statue of the singer leaning cooly against a column on another. On the bricks surrounding the monument are dedications and messages from family, friends, and fans.

We were greeted by a man who might be Selena’s second biggest fan after my friend. He wore a Selena t-shirt and had a Selena sticker splayed across his back car window. He introduced himself as the caretaker of the monument, and was totally down for discussing all things Selena. He’d even had a small part in the movie they made about Selena! Of course, he also directed us toward a mural of Selena that was actually of Farah Fawcett, so who knows. Incidentally, the local friend we met for lunch in Corpus Christi is the daughter of the judge who tried Selena’s killer. Like a lot of places in Texas, it’s “todo un pueblito”: like a small town.

Selena, like many Texan Latinos of her generation and before, did not grow up speaking Spanish. She learned it later for her music. Likewise, it is never a safe bet that Latinos you meet in Texas will speak Spanish, though the likelihood that they do increases the further south you go.

Soon, we were back on the road and headed for Pharr, where a friend of mine had recently moved from Mexico. I also have a friend in McAllen, so it was finally time to make a trip!

McAllen sunset — The beautiful sunset on the way to McAllen. (Sarah DeVries)

On the border

As we headed south, we noticed more and more police vehicles lying in wait, and I began to grow nervous. The border isn’t scary to me because it’s close to Mexico; it’s scary because it’s crawling with Border Patrol and immigration agents. Would we be stopped? Would our car be searched?

Luckily, two pleasantly plump white ladies in a Prius is pretty low on the list of suspicious-looking people.

The next morning, we were going to see the actual border, and I was as giddy and excited as I’d be if I were about to meet a celebrity. The border! The real border! I was going to be on it!

We saw it on a nice hike in a beautiful park, the Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge. The air was fragrant with the smell of its plants, and we even saw a couple of javelinas cross in front of us. Finally, we reached the point I was most excited about: the Rio Grande.

It actually wasn’t all that grande. Still, I was thrilled. Just across the water was the top part of Mexico! I took an embarrassing amount of pictures before heading back.

Real excited on a real windy day to be standing in front of the river that divides this part of Texas from Mexico.

The border cities, by the way, were just normal Texas cities, only with more Spanish on their signs. The only features that seemed to make them distinct were the conspicuous presence of chain-link fences around schools and more properties than you’d expect, and speed bumps. Notable as well were the kinds of mixed-income neighborhoods I associate with Mexico. Agricultural fields stretched around the area, and I couldn’t help but wonder who would be tending to them if Trump decided to carry out his planned mass deportations.

Our trip was short but worth it. Hopefully, it was just the first of many as I seek out the lesser-known parts of my Texas roots.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

What could a Sheinbaum-Trump deal look like? A perspective from our CEO

By

Travis Bembenek

-

February 1, 2025

66

Two hands reach out for a handshake, representing a deal between Trump and Sheinbaum — As Trump holds the threat of tariffs over Mexico, how can he and President Sheinbaum make a deal? (Shutterstock)

As of publication mid-day Saturday, Feb. 1, there has been no official announcement from Trump regarding tariffs on Mexican products.

I will avoid sharing my opinion in my column today regarding President Trump as a businessman, leader or politician. Whatever I would say here would result in half of readers enthusiastically agreeing with me and the other half most certainly harshly criticizing me. That’s not my intention here. What I can say with confidence is that I think Trump is a very shrewd and effective negotiator. Let me explain.

There are several different types of well-documented, effective negotiating strategies. However, over my nearly 30-year business career, I have often found that it is the person that is doing the negotiating that matters as much as the actual negotiating strategy. If the person on the other side of the table is (or appears to be) unwilling to compromise, very aware that they have a sizeable advantage, willing to walk away or willing to do something unthinkable or crazy, it makes for an extremely difficult negotiating situation for the other party.

Two photos, one of U.S. President-elect Trump and another of Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum — The United States’ economic and political power puts President Sheinbaum at a disadvantage in any negotiation scenario. (Gage Skidmore via Flickr/Cuartoscuro)

Early in my career, I worked for a smaller-sized company that had annual revenue under US $200 million. We had a very large customer with annual revenue over US $20 billion — over 100 times larger than us! To make matters more complicated, this customer represented a very large percentage of our total revenue. Negotiations with this customer were a nightmare because they knew that at the end of the day, they could demand almost anything and we would have to give in. Unfortunately, the culture of that company was to extract whatever they could from their suppliers in nearly every negotiation. It was a true David versus Goliath situation every time a new deal came up — and sure, David can win once or twice, but not on a regular basis. They can and did get the best of us every chance they could. Some companies and their negotiating employees use this power lightly, respecting the smaller company — others do not.

A similar asymmetry exists between the U.S. and Mexico. The United States economy is almost 15 times larger than Mexico’s. Mexico sends nearly 80% of it’s exports to the United States. Talk about a David versus Goliath negotiation! To make matters more difficult for Mexico, Trump has demonstrated himself to be the type of negotiator who is willing to use any and all negotiating tools at his disposal to get what he wants. Needless to say, that puts Sheinbaum in a difficult spot. So how could this play out?

Trump is pushing Mexico in five key areas, each of which represent a negotiating opportunity for both sides. He wants Mexico to:

1. Curb the flow of migrants at the southern border.
2. Crack down on the cartels and curb the flow of drugs to the U.S.
3. Receive Mexican nationals who will be deported from the United States.
4. Crack down on Chinese investment in Mexico.
5. Stop the flow of Chinese vehicles into Mexico.

A stretch of the Mexico-US border wall in the desert — Many of Trump’s demands relate to the flow of migrants and drugs across the Mexico-U.S. border. (Greg Bulla/Unsplash)

He is clearly using the threat of tariffs on Mexican exports to the United States to pressure Sheinbaum into doing what he wants in each of these areas (as we saw last week with Colombia). Trump has put so many demands on the table, and given the above-mentioned asymmetry of the negotiation, it naturally puts Sheinbaum and her team on the defensive. Mexico would like to stop the flow of U.S. guns into Mexico and obviously avoid tariffs from the U.S., but beyond that is not making any significant demands of the United States. Fortunately for Mexico, tariffs on Mexican exports to the US is likely something that would hurt the U.S. economy as well — no matter what Trump says.

Here is what I think will ultimately happen: Look for Mexico to show some significant steps and progress in each of the five key areas. In fact, in each one of them, Sheinbaum’s administration has already taken some initial steps and more tangible actions than her predecessor. This will be noticed and should be well-received by the new U.S. administration. She also has shown that she is smart, tough, charming and very likeable. From my experience, this will help her tremendously in the negotiation.

To avoid inflation risks in the United States, any tariffs that ultimately are applied against Mexico will likely be very targeted, much smaller than threatened, and short term. The threat will, however, push Mexico to take even more action in each of the key areas while at the same time not causing too much tariff-related pain on either side of the border.

Sheinbaum’s administration has been doing a good job pointing out the deep interconnectedness of both economies and its benefits, as well as the risk that tariffs could stoke inflation. The arguments have been presented in a calm, fact-based and objective manner. This has been an important strategy, but in this case pure, rational logic likely will not be enough. She needs to give “wins” to the Trump administration on each of the five areas that they can tout to the American people.

In summary, I think that Mexico will continue to take actions and make some progress in each of the five key areas. As a result of this, and due to the risks of economic damage to the U.S. that would come from tariffs on Mexican goods, I do not think that the U.S. will impose any long-term, serious or substantial tariffs on Mexico. It will not be an easy or smooth ride for Mexico over the next year, but I am convinced that what will come out of this negotiation will be an increased level of dialog, coordination and cooperation between the two countries on many issues and an unprecedented amount of new investment and growth in the years to come.

Travis Bembenek is the CEO of Mexico News Daily and has been living, working or playing in Mexico for nearly 30 years.

Taste of Mexico: Tamales

By

María Meléndez

-

February 1, 2025

5

The history of Tamales is long and suitably delicious. However, the staple food is actually very important for all Mexicans during this coming month. February 2 is approaching, and Mexicans are filled with excitement because it’s the day we celebrate Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas), and that can only mean one thing: we’re going to eat tamales. While tamales are enjoyed year-round, I invite you to think of February 2 as the unofficial National Tamal Day and to celebrate it alongside all Mexicans.

What is a tamal?

The Spanish word tamal originates from the Nahuatl word “tamalli,” which means “wrapped.” Today, there are over 5000 ways of preparing tamales, but they all share some key features: a tamal is made from corn dough wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves. These treats are steamed to make them tender and fluffy.

Tamales have traditionally been stuffed with ingredients such as chicken, pork, fish, chili peppers, beans or fruit. In modern times, you can also find corn dough flavored with cacao, blueberries or strawberry, among other options.

The origin of the tamal

In a country where corn was domesticated over 9000 years ago, it is natural that people found countless ways to use this ingredient. Tamales have been being cooked since as early as 2,500 years ago. In some areas, tamales were filled with ingredients such as now-unthinkable dog meat, worms or insect larvae, as well as some of the fillings we still use today.

For ancient Mesoamerican people, tamales were not only a daily meal, easy to transport and highly nutritious, but they also held sacred significance. They were offered in ceremonies and religious festivals because, for ancient civilizations, corn symbolized a connection to various gods in multiple cultures and religions.

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Why do we eat tamales on February 2?

Tamales are traditionally eaten on February 2 for a fascinating reason connected to early marketing strategies. During Spain’s colonization of what is now Mexico Catholic priests aimed to evangelize Indigenous cultures by replacing their existing religions with Catholicism.

Indigenous cultures had their own festivals honoring gods associated with the agricultural cycle, particularly during late January and early February, which marked the beginning of the planting season. Catholic priests recognized this timing as an opportunity to substitute the Indigenous gods and the purpose of the celebrations with Christian observances.

Candlemas is a liturgical celebration that commemorates the presentation of the infant Jesus at the Temple in Jerusalem. During this celebration, processions where pilgrims march with lit candles are held in Rome, Jerusalem and other Catholic regions, symbolizing Jesus as the light of the world. Recognizing that tamales were part of pre-Christian religions in Mexico, Catholic priests allowed Indigenous communities to continue incorporating offerings of tamales in Catholic celebrations like Candlemas.

Whatever the reason, eat a tamal

You don’t need to be Catholic or Indigenous to prepare and enjoy a tamal. So here’s an easy recipe if you want to try making this delicious dish. Just remember what my grandmother always said: when kneading the dough, make sure to avoid anger or negative thoughts, which can ruin it.

Easy green tamales

Ingredients

500 g corn masa (for tortillas)
200 g pork lard (or vegetable shortening)
1 cup chicken broth
1 tsp baking powder
2 cups shredded chicken
Salt to taste
Corn husks (soaked in hot water until softened)
1 cup of green salsa (homemade or store-bought)

Instructions

Prepare the masa: In a large bowl, beat the lard until fluffy. Add the masa, baking powder and salt. Gradually incorporate the chicken broth until achieving a light consistency. To test if it’s ready, drop a small amount of masa into a glass of water; if it floats, it’s perfect.
Prepare the filling: Mix the shredded chicken with the green salsa, ensuring it is well combined.
Assemble: Spread a portion of masa in the center of a corn husk. Add a spoonful of the chicken and salsa filling. Wrap the tamal by folding in the sides and sealing the bottom.
Cook: Stand the tamales upright in a steamer, leaving space for steam to circulate. Cook for approximately 1.5 hours or until the masa easily separates from the husk.
Serve: Serve the tamales hot, optionally topped with extra green salsa. Pair them with a comforting atole or coffee.

A new ritual

Let’s create a new tradition: making tamales a good-luck ritual. Eating tamales can be our way to wish each other a spectacular 2025, filled with great successes.

María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.

LeBaron massacre was not an act of terrorism, Sheinbaum says: Friday’s mañanera recapped

By

MND Staff

-

January 31, 2025

21

Sheinbaum speaks at her Friday morning press conference — The threat of tariffs, a 2019 massacre and the role of Cuban doctors in Mexico were topics of discussion at Friday's press conference. (Presidencia)

This Saturday, the United States will impose a 25% tariff on Mexican and Canadian exports, White House Press Secretary Karoline Leavitt said Friday.

United States President Donald Trump said Thursday that the tariffs were coming because Mexico and Canada have allowed migrants and drugs to enter the U.S., and because the U.S. has large trade deficits with those two countries.

At her Friday morning press conference, President Claudia Sheinbaum said that her government was prepared for whatever decision the Trump administration made with regard to tariffs, while Economy Minister Marcelo Ebrard highlighted the negative effect the duties would have on consumers in the United States. (Read Mexico News Daily’s report on their remarks here.)

In addition to tariffs, Sheinbaum spoke about a range of other issues at her Friday mañanera, including a judge’s ruling in relation to a 2019 massacre in the northern border state of Sonora.

Sheinbaum disagrees with terrorism designation of 2019 massacre of 9 Mexican-US citizens

A reporter noted that a federal judge earlier this month directed the Federal Attorney General’s Office (FGR) to investigate the 2019 massacre of three women and six children in northern Mexico as an act of terrorism.

The victims, members of the extended LeBaron family, were ambushed by alleged cartel gunmen in Sonora on Nov. 4, 2019. La Linea, a faction of the Juárez Cartel, is alleged to have killed the women and children, members of an American Mexican Mormon family.

One of the funerals held for the nine people murdered in Chihuahua November 4. — Earlier this month, a federal judge designated the 2019 murder of nine members of a border-zone Mormon family as an act of terrorism. (File photo)

Sheinbaum said that her government didn’t agree with the judge’s determination that the massacre was an act of terrorism.

“Of course we have to work permanently against criminal groups, but, as the security minister and the defense minister have explained here, the connotation of terrorism is different,” she said.

The reporter asked Sheinbaum whether the terrorism designation by the judge was an “act of justice” for the families who lost loved ones in late 2019.

“Justice is being served,” she said. “… A lot of people have been arrested in connection with this criminal act and [there is] comprehensive justice for the families,” the president said.

The federal judge’s directive for the FGR to investigate the attack as an act of terrorism came just days before Donald Trump was sworn in as the 47th president of the United States. On his first day in office, Trump signed an executive order “Designating cartels and other organizations as foreign terrorist organizations and specially designated global terrorists.”

The Trump administration’s designation of specific Mexican cartels as foreign terrorist organizations could occur as soon as next week.

After the 2019 massacre of the women and children in Sonora, President Trump said on Twitter (now X) that the United States was prepared to offer assistance to combat Mexico’s notorious cartels.

Donald Trump and Andrés Manuel López Obrador — In 2019, then-President López Obrador declined U.S. assistance in “cleaning out” those responsible for the LeBaron killings. (Cuartoscuro)

“If Mexico needs or requests help in cleaning out these monsters, the United States stands ready, willing & able to get involved and do the job quickly and effectively,” Trump wrote.

“… This is the time for Mexico, with the help of the United States, to wage WAR on the drug cartels and wipe them off the face of the Earth. We merely await a call from your great new president!” he said.

Andrés Manuel López Obrador, Mexico’s president at the time, declined the offer.

Asked last week whether he would consider “ordering U.S. special forces into Mexico” to “take out” cartels, Trump said it “could happen.”

“Stranger things have happened,” said the U.S. president, who last year indicated he was open to using military “strikes” against Mexican cartels.

‘We don’t agree with the treatment of migrants as criminals’

Sheinbaum also responded to a question about Trump’s apparent plan to send tens of thousands of migrants to the United States Guantanamo Bay Naval Base in Cuba.

A guard tower behind a barbed wire fence at Guantanamo Bay — In response to Trump’s plan to use the U.S. military outpost of Guantanamo Bay to hold migrants, Sheinbaum expressed a wish for “international law and human the protection of human rights to prevail.” (Joint Task Force Guantanamo/Flickr)

“Obviously we don’t agree with the treatment of migrants as criminals. And we’re always going to look for international law and the protection of human rights to prevail,” she said.

Sheinbaum said that her government hadn’t spoken to the Trump administration about the plan to hold “criminal aliens” at the U.S. facility at Guantanamo Bay, where terrorism suspects are detained.

However, she stressed that Mexican and U.S. authorities are collaborating on the issue of migration.

“We’re in permanent dialogue and there is very good coordination,” Sheinbaum said.

Government will continue to hire Cuban doctors

Toward the end of her Friday morning press conference, Sheinbaum said that the federal government will continue to hire doctors from Cuba and other foreign countries to fill positions in Mexico.

“Where specialist doctors are needed in our country and there is solidarity from [doctors from] other countries to come and help our health services, the hiring will continue because what takes precedence is health care for the people,” she said.

The federal government announced last July that 2,700 Cuban medical specialists would come to Mexico to work, joining 950 Cuban doctors already in the country.

Mexican medical associations have opposed the hiring of Cuban doctors, saying that there are many out-of-work Mexican physicians who could fill vacant positions.

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies (peter.davies@mexiconewsdaily.com)

Mexico’s famously tedious bureaucracy may finally be getting a digital update

By

MND Staff

-

January 31, 2025

8

A long line of Toluca residents waits to file paperwork at a government office in Mexico — México state residents wait in long lines outside a government office. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

The federal government on Thursday presented a draft law whose central aims include simplifying and digitalizing bureaucratic paperwork and eliminating corruption in Mexico’s public service.

President Claudia Sheinbaum initially said that the proposed legislation would be called the National Law for Simplification and Digitalization, but she subsequently declared that it would be called the National Law for the Elimination of Bureaucratic Procedures and Corruption.

José Merino presents a proposed law for bureaucracy and paperwork reduction in Mexico — José Merino, chief of the Agency for Digital Transformation and Telecommunications, explained the details of the proposed legislation on Thursday. (Galo Cañas/Cuartoscuro)

“That’s what it will be called, that is its objective,” she told her Thursday morning press conference.

“The objective is to reduce the number of [government] procedures and by reducing the number, the possibility of corruption is eliminated,” Sheinbaum said.

José Merino, head of the government’s Agency for Digital Transformation and Telecommunications, said there are currently more than 7,000 different federal government procedures as well as hundreds of state and municipal ones in each of Mexico’s 32 federal entities.

On average, he said, a person in Mexico carries out 486 bureaucratic procedures over the course of their life, 85% of which are state and municipal procedures. They include applying for or renewing a driver’s license and paying property taxes.

A pile of administrative paperwork — Mexico’s excessive bureaucracy is not only time-consuming but also creates opportunities for corruption, officials said. (Camilo Rueda López/Flickr)

“When there is an excessive number of procedures what we’re doing as authorities is hindering a lot of other things that people want to do in their lives,” Merino said.

The proposed law — part of the government’s Plan México economic initiative — should benefit companies, both Mexican and foreign, as it intends to simplify and expedite the bureaucratic processes they have to undertake when investing in the country.

One of the goals of Plan México is to reduce the average time between an investment announcement and the execution of a project from 2.6 years to 1 year.

The 4 ‘central objectives’ of the law

Merino said that the proposed law — which will likely be approved by the ruling Morena party-dominated Congress sometime later this year — has four main objectives:

To make government procedures, the requirements for carrying out those procedures and their period for resolution uniform across the country.
To “eliminate obstacles” for individuals and companies when carrying out bureaucratic procedures.
To maintain “a good regulatory practice” in Mexico, as required by the USMCA free trade pact and the Mexican Constitution.
To make it easier for people to “access what they have a right to.”

Merino also said that the law will provide a range of “concrete benefits,” including the reduction of “spaces for corruption” and the acceleration of “economic activity to generate shared prosperity.”

He said that the government wants to cut the total number of bureaucratic procedures, and their requirements and resolution periods, in half.

Online administrative paperwork options on a Mexican government website — Under the proposed law, the government hopes to cut the number of bureaucratic procedures available in half and move 80% of those remaining online. (Screenshot)

Merino also said that the government is aiming to digitalize at least 80% of procedures, allowing citizens and companies to carry them out online without the need to go into a government office.

How will the government achieve its goals?

Merino said that the government will implement a “national model of simplification and digitalization” to achieve the goals of the proposed law.

He outlined “nine components” of the model, including the creation of a “sole citizens’ portal,” or website, where “people can quickly see the catalogue [of procedures] and requirements.”

Merino also outlined 10 “simplification principles.”

He said that authorities would:

Reduce the number of documents citizens and companies require when carrying our bureaucratic procedures.
Not request documents that they can generate themselves.
Eliminate “non-essential requirements” for the completion of bureaucratic procedures.
Grant “the same validity” to digital documents as is given to physical documents.
Prioritize attention to “procedures of greatest volume,” i.e. those that are most commonly carried out.

President Sheinbaum looks on as José Merino outlines plans to reduce bureaucratic paperwork in Mexico — Merino described the government’s paperwork reduction plans as ambitious but necessary. (Presidencia)

Merino said that the government’s plan to simplify and expedite the carrying out of bureaucratic procedures is “an ambitious project,” but one that is “very necessary.”

It will make life “much easier” for people and companies, he said.

Sheinbaum said that the proposed legislation is a “national law” because it is aimed at simplifying and expediting federal, state and municipal procedures.

“If a person is going to apply for their birth certificate, everything is simplified so that they can have their birth certificate very quickly,” she said.

“… If a small business wants to register itself, it won’t have to carry out 10,000 bureaucratic procedures to be able to register,” Sheinbaum said.

Mexico News Daily

LiDAR study sheds light on ‘lost’ Zapotec city in southern Oaxaca

By

MND Staff

-

January 31, 2025

1

Guiengola, Oaxaca — The study’s findings contribute to a broader understanding of Zapotec governance and urban planning, as well as their interactions with the Spanish during the early colonial period. (Wikimedia Commons)

A recently published study has unveiled the true nature of Guiengola, a sprawling Zapotec enclave in the southern part of Oaxaca state that was abandoned shortly before the Spanish conquest in 1521.

For years, the area in the jungle was believed to have been simply a fortress for housing soldiers. In fact, it was a thriving, expanding and fortified city whose residents relocated to nearby Tehuantepec, where their descendants still live.

These findings — brought to light this week in Discover, Newsweek and other publications — come from Pedro Guillermo Ramón Celis, a postdoctoral researcher at McGill University in Montreal whose mother’s family is from Tehuantepec, a municipality of 67,000 about 20 kilometers from the archeological site.

“I remember them talking about [Guiengola] when I was a child,” Ramón Celis told Newsweek. “It was one of the reasons that I chose to go into archaeology.”

In November, a study based on his and his team’s research over five-plus years was published in the journal Ancient Mesoamerica. In part, it illustrates the political and social workings of the Zapotec civilization, which met its end at the hands of Spanish conquistadors in the early 1500s.

Using airborne LiDAR technology, Ramón Celis and his team scanned and mapped the site, revealing that Guiengola spanned 360 hectares and contained more than 1,100 buildings, including temples and ball courts. It also had a network of roads and was fortified with 4 kilometers of walls.

The Guiengola Archaeological project — Guiengola is a Zapotec word meaning “big stone,” coming from the union of the words “guie” (stone) and “ngola” (big or old). (McGill University)

LiDAR stands for Light Detection and Ranging; it’s akin to a light-based version of sonar, using pulses of laser beams to produce detailed topographic maps of the terrain.

“Because the city is only between 500 and 600 years old, it is amazingly well preserved,” Ramón Celis said. “You can walk there in the jungle and still see standing houses, doors, hallways and fences.”

Guiengola is located on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec — the narrowest strip of land in Mexico between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean.

Today, the area is an emerging trade corridor that includes a 303-km, interoceanic railway that can haul shipping cargo between ports on opposite coasts more efficiently, some say, than the Panama Canal.

My article on the analysis of the urban layout of Guiengola was just published in @AMesoamerica its open access so check it out! #lidar #mesoamerica #archeology https://t.co/OCs7m5HOTV pic.twitter.com/fx9MNJcwXw

— Guillermo Ramón Celis (@arqlgoGuillermo) November 8, 2024

Ramón Celis contends that Guiengola’s layout indicates a hierarchically organized city, with a clear division between elite and commoner neighborhoods. The LiDAR scans, which were conducted from 2018 to 2023, show elite structures such as temples and ball courts clustered in specific areas, with other areas of residential structures.

“The site was mischaracterized for years,” Ramón Celis said. “Our findings show that it was a sophisticated city with a structured political and social system.”

The study’s findings, Ramón Celis added, contribute to a broader understanding of Zapotec governance and urban planning, as well as their interactions with the Spanish during the early colonial period.

Ongoing research is planned, with scholars hoping to gain further insights on the resilience and complexity of pre-Columbian civilizations in Mesoamerica. For those who aren’t archaeologists or anthropologists, perhaps a visit to the Museum of the Cultures of Oaxaca in the city of Oaxaca would be in order.

Meanwhile, Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) has a web page about visiting Guiengola that still includes: “It is believed to have been a fortress for defense against hostile groups.”

Visitors to the mostly undeveloped site can explore houses, plazas, tombs, pyramids and other structures; it’s open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily and is free. Although a visitor might run into a local guide who can give a tour, INAH “does not have any type of services or infrastructure to receive tourist visits” beyond a custodial staff.

Details about reaching the site — including driving up a dirt road to a small parking area, then hiking 45 minutes through a cactus forest — can be found via iOverlander.com. The dirt road is about a 45-minute drive from the port city of Salina Cruz, Oaxaca, one terminus of the Interoceanic Railroad.

With reports from Proceso, Newsweek and Discover