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2025 according to Sarah DeVries

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This year, Sarah DeVries had something to say. Then again, she usually does.

It’s certainly been a year.

Mexico News Daily’s most opinionate writer has some thoughts about everything that has gone on this year, and luckily for us, she isn’t afraid to share them.

To finish up 2025, we collected some of Sarah’s best, most insightful (and occasionally controversial) musings.

Should corporations be allowed to deny us access to water?

Ever courting controversy, Sarah asks how far Mexico should allow businesses to go, as the government takes action against obesity rates in the country.

The relentless imperialism of Coca Cola and our rights to health

Is remote work in 2025 all it’s cracked up to be?

Moving to Mexico used to be a clever workaround for US citizens squeezed by costs back home, but rising prices, shaky remote work, AI job threats, and local tensions mean that “gaming the system” is fading. Does community support matter more than cheap tacos now? Sarah investigates.

Is ‘gaming the system’ in Mexico still a good economic solution for US citizens?

Who’s gentrifying who?

Sarah unpacks Mexico City’s anti-gentrification protests, pointing out that locals are really furious at soaring prices and uneven capitalism, but foreigners become the easy, visible target. With a messy mix of economic injustice, resentment, tourism policy, and some ugly xenophobia bubbling over in trendy neighborhoods, who is really doing the gentrifying and where does the blame lie?

The awkward truth behind Mexico City’s ‘anti-gentrification’ protests

Economic policy or punishment?

Ever the campaigner, this personal tale of making ends meet on both sides of the border sees Sarah take aim at the economic policies of one Donald Trump. Will she approve of his plan to tax remittance payments back to Mexico?

The remittance tax in the United States: A bad, cruel idea

Nothing says ‘safe for women’ like the President getting groped

When even Mexico’s president gets groped in broad daylight, what hope do the rest of women have on the street? See why Claudia Sheinbaum pressing charges could mark a turning point—and why being grabbed is never “just part of the job.”

No women are exempt from groping … even the president

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

 

The Metro in 2025: The art, commerce and commuters who defined Mexico City’s subway this year

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Riders wait as an orange Mexico City Metro train pulls into the station
Metro riders prepare to board at the Observatorio station — part of Line 1, which first opened to the public in 1969. (Daniel Augusto / Cuartoscuro.com)

As a long-term aficionado of the Mexico City Metro, I was more than happy to descend to the capital’s subway system to report a series of stories for Mexico News Daily this year.

My aim was to give readers insight — or additional insight — into the artistic vibrancy, commercial buzz and vital importance of the metro system, which opened in 1969 with a single line, but has since grown into an elaborate 12-line network.

In case you missed the stories earlier this year, or would like to revisit them, here is a brief overview of the series with a link to each of the three parts.

Part I: Art in transit

In this piece, I explored the amazing and incredibly varied expressions of culture on display in the Mexico City Metro system, including underground urban art, pre-Columbian relics, detailed murals, live music, and even the skeletal remains of an extinct animal.

Here’s an extract:

“The song ‘Sandunga’ by Puerto Rican ‘King of Reggaetón’ Don Omar blares from a television to a captive audience of commuters standing just behind an embossed yellow line. 

Below the TV is a Maya stele from the Izapa archeological site in Chiapas featuring intricate bas-reliefs. This juxtaposition of culture — the ancient and the very modern — plays out on a platform of the Bellas Artes metro station in the subterranean heart of Mexico City.”

Art in transit: How Mexico City’s metro doubles as a museum

Part II: Mercado Metro

Since my first trip on the Mexico City Metro in 2011, I’ve been fascinated with the abundance of buying and selling that takes place in stations and on trains, although the number of vendors on board the so-called gusanos naranja (orange worms) has dwindled in recent years.

For this story I spoke to a number of metro-based vendors, including a teenage purveyor of hot meals who counts police officers among his customers, and a health store employee who sells products including shark cartilage capsules and “Praw Praw Sex” pills.

Here’s an extract:

“Amaranth bars, headphones, stuffed toys, jeans, Japanese peanuts, espresso machine coffee, skincare products, McDonald’s soft serve cones, churros, tortas gigantes, tacos, sexual enhancement pills, lingerie, newspapers, books and oh-so-many different kinds of chatarra (junk food).   

All these products — and countless others — are available for purchase in the Mexico City Metro system.”

Mercado Metro: The vibrant world of commerce beneath Mexico City’s streets

Part III: The backbone of a sprawling transit system 

In this third and final part of our Mexico City Metro series, I delved into the history of the subway system and spoke to commuters about how they use it today.

I also looked at how the metro fits into the broader public transport network in the Valley of Mexico metropolitan area, which includes Mexico City and many municipalities of México state.

Here’s an extract:

“In Mexico City, a public transit ride can be a quick zip up a metro line, and it can also be an hours-long, patience-testing odyssey (or ordeal) involving various modes of transportation. Commuters who come into central Mexico City from the surrounding metro area municipalities of México state face some of the longest trips.

One such person is Maura Hernández, a domestic worker who lives in the México state municipality of Nicolás Romero, located around 40 kilometers northwest of central Mexico City.”

The Mexico City Metro: Backbone of a sprawling transit system that gets Chilangos where they need to go

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies (peter.davies@mexiconewsdaily.com)

Mexico’s year in review: The 10 biggest news and politics stories of 2025

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huachicol
Fiscal fuel theft, in which gasoline and diesel are brought into the country and declared as other liquid products to avoid paying taxes, was the center of a major scandal this year involving members of the Mexican Navy. (Alejandro Rodríguez/Cuartoscuro)

We are approaching the end of another big year of news in Mexico.

It was a year of significant change, as Donald Trump’s return to the White House had a considerable impact on Mexico, while the Mexican judiciary was overhauled via the country’s first-ever judicial elections.

It was a year of major floods and record rain, a year with fewer homicides but still obstinate insecurity, a year in which cartel honchos were sent abroad and an outspoken anti-crime mayor was killed at home.

President Claudia Sheinbaum completed her first year in office in 2025, a year that came with no shortage of challenges for Mexico’s first woman leader.

This year marks the seventh year of national governance by the “fourth transformation” (4T) political movement, which was founded by former president Andrés Manuel López Obrador, who held office for the Morena party between 2018 and 2024.

As we did at the end of 2023 and 2024, Mexico News Daily looked back at the past 12 months and selected 10 news and politics stories that we believe were among the biggest of 2025. In some cases, they are stories that are ongoing, stories with no clear end or resolution in sight, and stories that we will continue to watch closely in 2026.

1. The return of Trump 

The return of Donald Trump to the White House in late January marked the commencement of a new era in Mexico-U.S. relations — one marked by unpredictability and uncertainty as well as deepening security cooperation and economic interdependence.

President Sheinbaum stands at a podium next to a projected video of Donald Trump, with the raised hand of a reporter visible in the foreground
President Sheinbaum proved herself to be a “Trump whisperer” in 2025. (Moisés Pablo Nava/Cuartoscuro)

The 47th U.S. president took Mexico on a tariff rollercoaster ride in 2025, imposing new duties on a range of Mexican goods, lifting some soon after, threatening to raise tariffs tied to fentanyl trafficking, and offering some concessions to the United States’ southern neighbor — a sign that he still retains some respect for the USMCA trade pact, and recognizes the deep integration of the U.S. and Mexican economies.

The Mexican government has attempted to stave off, or at least mitigate U.S. tariffs, including through negotiation and the deployment of 10,000 National Guard troops to the northern border early in the year.

Beyond tariffs, the second Trump administration had a significant impact on Mexico in a range of ways this year.

There were, of course, other ways in which the Trump administration had an impact on Mexico this year, including in the aviation sector.

Still, despite the various tensions in the Mexico-United States relationship, Sheinbaum and Trump have established a personal rapport and publicly expressed respect for each other, even though the latter has also accused his Mexican counterpart of being “scared” of “the cartels.”

Next year will be another crucial year in the bilateral relationship, not least because the USMCA review will take place. Ahead of the review process, Sheinbaum, Trump and Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney found the opportunity to discuss trade during a meeting at the FIFA World Cup draw in Washington, D.C., earlier this month.

Sheinbaum joins US President Trump and Canada PM Carney at the FIFA World Cup draw

A first bilateral in-person meeting between Sheinbaum and Trump appears likely to happen in 2026, providing the two leaders another opportunity to build on their rapport and perhaps iron out the trade and security issues that tarnished ties in 2025.

* MORE READING ON MEXICO-U.S. relations: Check out MND CEO Travis Bembenek’s recent article, headlined “Should the US help Mexico beat the cartels?”

2. Mexico stages its first-ever judicial elections 

June 1 was a historic day in Mexico — the country’s first-ever judicial elections were held — but it was apparently just an ordinary Sunday for the vast majority of Mexican voters, as turnout was just 13%.

Nevertheless, President Claudia Sheinbaum described the democratic exercise as a great success.

The staging of the judicial elections was essential to rid Mexico’s judiciary of corruption, nepotism and other ills, or one of the biggest mistakes the country has ever made — depending on who you listen to.

Only about 13% of eligible voters in Mexico participated in the recent judicial elections.
Only about 13% of eligible voters in Mexico participated in the recent judicial elections. (Isabel Mateos Hinojosa / Cuartoscuro)

Whichever way you look at it, the judicial reform is well and truly underway, as the candidates who triumphed on June 1 have now been sworn in as judges, magistrates and Supreme Court justices. A second round of judicial elections will be held in 2027.

It is still too early to say whether claims that the popular election of judges will remove a vital check on government power and thus weaken the rule of law in Mexico are founded or not.

The impact of the judicial elections — for good and/or for bad — will become clearer in 2026.

* MORE READING ON THE JUDICIAL ELECTIONS: Shortly after the elections, we published an article on a critical report prepared by the Electoral Observation Mission of the Organization of American States. Read it here.  

3. Floods devastate central and eastern Mexico 

Mexico hasn’t experienced a major and destructive earthquake so far in 2025 — knock on wood — but other natural disasters, including hurricanes and wildfires, took a significant toll on the country.

The most impactful natural disaster this year was, however, the severe flooding that affected the states of Veracruz, Hidalgo, Puebla, San Luis Potosí and Querétaro in October.

Veracruz, Querétaro, Hidalgo, San Luis Potosí and Puebla were the states most affected by flooding in October. (@Claudiashein/X)

The floods claimed at least 83 lives and an additional 17 people remained missing long after the floodwaters had receded.

The federal government faced criticism over its initial response, with some flood-affected citizens asserting that authorities acted too slowly and provided insufficient assistance.

The government defended its response, and later highlighted that it provided some 7.6 billion pesos (US $411 million) in aid to more than 100,000 flood-affected households

The floods served as yet another reminder that Mexico is vulnerable to a wide range of natural disasters, some of which could become even more severe, and consequently more devastating, in the years ahead due to the impact of climate change.

* MORE READING ON THE FLOODS: On Oct. 20, we published a story about a floating seafood restaurant in Veracruz state that became an emblem of the devastating floods after breaking free of its moorings and traveling into the Gulf of Mexico and hundreds of kilometers along the coast.

Veracruz restaurant swept to sea during flood comes ashore 570 km away

4. Homicides decline 

While large protests against insecurity were held in cities across Mexico in November, the federal government has made significant progress in combating crime, according to official statistics.

The most closely-watched indicator of insecurity is the data on homicides, which increased to record annual highs early in Andrés Manuel López Obrador’s presidency before declining in the second half of his 2018-24 term.

The Sheinbaum administration has succeeded in further lowering the homicide rate, although there have been questions about the accuracy of the data showing the reduction.

In any case, preliminary data presented by the federal government on Dec. 9 shows that Mexico’s daily homicide rate declined 29% annually to 65.1 in the first 11 months of the year.

While the reduction is good news at face value, the fact remains that almost 22,000 lives were lost to violent crime between January and November. There is no doubt that the federal government still has a lot of work to do in a country where insecurity is the No. 1 concern of many citizens.

* MORE READING ON MEXICO’S SECURITY SITUATION: At Sheinbaum’s morning press conference on Dec. 9, security officials presented the latest data on homicides, arrests, drug seizures and firearm confiscations. Click here to read our report on that mañanera

5. Mexico hands over 55 cartel figures to US

Less than a week before a 25% U.S. tariff on all imports from Mexico was due to take effect, and as the Mexican government faced pressure from the Trump administration to do more to combat transnational drug trafficking, the Sheinbaum administration sent 29 cartel figures, including notorious drug lord Rafael Caro Quintero, to the United States.

The Feb. 27 transfer was described as “historical” by Mike Vigil, a former DEA chief of international operations, and a “huge smack to cartels” by Ioan Grillo, a Mexico-journalist with extensive experience reporting on organized crime.

In August, an additional 26 organized crime figures were sent to the U.S., bringing the total number of extradited prisoners to 55.

The Mexican government said that it took its own sovereign decision to send the cartel figures to the U.S., citing the risk of some of them being released from prison as a major reason for the transfer.

Mug shots of cartel members who were mass-extradited to the US in February 2025
Mexico overrode ongoing appeal processes to extradite 29 cartel figures to the U.S. in February before sending an additional 26 in August. (Gobierno de México)

But claims persisted that the main reason the criminals were sent north was to appease a U.S. government that, throughout 2025, has maintained pressure on Mexico to combat organized crime.

* MORE READING ON THE EXTRADITED CARTEL FIGURES: The most notorious cartel figure that was sent to the United States this year is Rafael Caro Quintero, the convicted murderer of United States DEA agent Enrique “Kiki” Camarena. In July 2022, we reported on his capture in northern Mexico, while in September we covered Sheinbaum’s response to U.S. Attorney General Pam Bondi’s claim that Caro Quintero was sent to the U.S. on Trump’s orders.    

6. Sheinbaum continues to make history

As Mexico’s first female president, Claudia Sheinbaum continued to make history in 2025, her first full year as leader of the world’s 11th most populous country.

Among the notable “firsts” she achieved this year were that she became the first woman to deliver an Informe de Gobierno (Government Report), an annual state-of-the-union style address, and the first female president to deliver the Cry of Independence (El Grito) from the National Palace balcony on the eve of Mexico’s Independence Day.

The impact of seeing a woman leading the nation in such moments — no doubt an inspiration for tens of millions of Mexican girls and women — should not be underestimated.

On the international stage in 2025, Sheinbaum represented Mexico at a CELAC summit in Honduras in April, the G7 Summit in Canada in June and the World Cup draw in Washington, D.C., earlier this month. She also visited Guatemala in June, where, along with the Guatemalan president and the prime minister of Belize, she announced the creation of an international area called the Great Maya Forest Biocultural Corridor.

In a short period of time, Sheinbaum has established herself as a highly-respected figure on the world stage, where she has advocated for things such as “economic well-being and cooperation for development,” greater integration of Western Hemisphere countries and Mexico’s Indigenous heritage.

NYT names Sheinbaum among the most stylish people of 2025

All the while, the president has maintained an extremely high approval rating at home, although her popularity declined slightly after a difficult November that included the assassination of the mayor of Uruapan (see below) and large protests against insecurity.

* MORE READING ON CLAUDIA SHEINBAUM: Check out this profile of Sheinbaum that we published just after her historic victory in the 2024 presidential election. 

7. Poverty declines

In a country where poverty and inequality are prevalent, and the federal government frequently highlights its commitment to put “the poor first,” the news in August that some 13.4 million people were lifted out of poverty between 2018 and 2024 was very significant indeed.

While there was some controversy over the methodology used to calculate the reduction in poverty, federal officials, including Sheinbaum, held up the data as proof that the 4T’s “economic model” is working.

That model, the government says, prioritizes citizens’ well-being, including via the provision of numerous welfare and social programs.

With more than 13 million people exiting poverty during the AMLO years, the percentage of Mexico’s population living in poverty dipped below 30%, from almost 42% in 2018.

Nevertheless, Sheinbaum acknowledged that her government still has work to do.

“It’s obvious that with 30% of the population in Mexico living in poverty, we have to keep advancing,” she said on Aug. 14. ”

“…And we’re certain that we’re going to continue making progress. That’s why we talk about continuity and the advance of the fourth transformation,” Sheinbaum said.

* MORE READING ON POVERTY REDUCTION: On Aug. 15, we published this report, which notes that poverty reduction in poor southern states between 2018 and 2024 was not as great as in other states across the country. 

8. Mexico’s fuel smuggling problem comes into focus

Crimes involving petroleum products, including the theft of fuel from pipelines, have long been a problem in Mexico.

In 2025, a fuel smuggling offense known as huachicol fiscal became the most notorious of those crimes, in part because it was at the center of a major corruption scandal.

Anti-corruption chief reveals sophisticated fuel tax evasion network costing Mexico billions

In April, a report by the Mexican company PetroIntelligence stated that Mexico’s Treasury was deprived of around US $24 million a day in 2024 due to fuel theft and huachicol fiscal, in which gasoline and diesel that is brought into the country — mainly from the United States — is declared as other liquid products (such as lubricants or even vegetable oil) that are not subject to the IEPS excise tax.

The evasion of the tax allows people involved in huachicol fiscal schemes to make huge profits on the fuel they bring into the country.

In May, the federal government’s Anti-Corruption and Good Governance Minister Raquel Buenrostro said that “customs agents and even high-ranking managers in certain companies” participate in “well-designed” and “sophisticated” huachicol fiscal schemes, which have been operating in Mexico for several years. Buenrostro said that “each unloading” of a shipment of fuel for which the IEPS is not paid costs the tax authorities a seemingly incredulous amount of around 1 billion pesos (US $55 billion).

In September, the crime was at the center of a major corruption scandal for the Mexican government as several members of the navy, including a vice admiral, were arrested in connection with a huachicol fiscal scheme.

The news was especially scandalous as the Mexican Navy is generally considered Mexico’s most trustworthy security institution.

Sheinbaum said in November that the incidence of huachicol fiscal has decreased, but acknowledged that the crime is an ongoing problem that the government must continue to combat.

Any further revelations that federal officials are involved in the crime would be a blow to the Sheinbaum administration and undermine its anti-corruption rhetoric.

* MORE READING ON HUACHICOL FISCAL: In October, we published this story based on a report by Reuters, which detailed how a petroleum products company from Houston teamed up with a notorious Mexican cartel to smuggle US $12 million of fuel into Mexico. In September, we reported on a customs reform that aims to prevent tax evasion, corruption and other forms of criminal activity at ports. 

9. A productive rainy season alleviates droughts and replenishes reservoirs 

At the end of April — before the commencement of the 2025 rainy season — 65.9% of Mexico’s national territory was in drought (46.5%) or said to be experiencing “abnormally dry conditions” (19.4%), according to the drought monitor published by the National Water Commission and the National Meteorological Service (SMN).

The Valle de Bravo dam, with a full reservoir behind it
The Valle de Bravo reservoir, part of the Cutzamala system that provides water to Mexico City, was 93% full when this photo was taken in mid-October. It is now at over 98% capacity. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar / Cuartoscuro)

At the end of November, only 21.8% of the national territory was in drought (10.8%) or experiencing abnormally dry conditions (11.2%), representing a marked improvement.

A very productive rainy season in 2025 didn’t just alleviate drought conditions across much of Mexico, but also replenished many of the nation’s reservoirs, some of which were particularly parched. A case in point is the Cutzamala system of dams and reservoirs, in which water levels exceeded 97% of capacity in November, after having dipped to just 30% in April 2024, intensifying concerns about water availability in the Mexico City area.

Given the extreme importance of water to human life, to agriculture and to industry, the alleviation of drought and the replenishment of reservoirs as a result of a particularly rainy temporada de lluvias (rainy season) are more than deserving of their place among the biggest stories in Mexico in 2025.

* MORE READING ON THE RAINY SEASON: In July, we reported on SMN data that showed that June was Mexico’s rainiest month on record. Click here to read the story.  

10. The mayor of Uruapan is assassinated 

Among the many murders perpetrated in Mexico this year, the one that attracted the most attention was the brazen assassination of Carlos Manzo, the mayor of Uruapan, Michoacán.

The Nov. 1 assassination of the outspoken anti-crime crusader shocked a nation that has been somewhat numbed by many years of relentless violence, triggering protests and precipitating the creation of a major “peace and justice” plan for Michoacán.

The murder also prompted a renewed national conversation about violence in Mexico and how best it can be combated.

Manzo funeral
A public funeral was held for the slain mayor near the site of his assassination on Nov. 1. (Juan José Estrada Serafín/Cuartoscuro)

A day after Manzo was killed, U.S. Deputy Secretary of State Christopher Landau reiterated that the U.S. “stands ready to deepen security cooperation with Mexico to wipe out organized crime on both sides of the border.”

The federal government continued to voice its opposition to any kind of U.S. military actions in Mexico, while Sheinbaum ruled out any return to the kind of “war” on drug cartels former president Felipe Calderón launched in 2006 with the help of the Mexican military.

The murder of the mayor by an alleged (and now deceased) 17-year-old gunman was symptomatic of the serious security problems that plague various parts of Mexico, including Michoacán, where Manzo was tragically killed while attending a solemn Day of the Dead event in the company of his young family.

* MORE READING ON THE MANZO CASE: In November, we reported on the arrest of an alleged mastermind of the mayor’s assassination,  while later the same month we published this story about the detention of seven of Manzo’s eight municipal police bodyguards.  

By Mexico News Daily chief staff writer Peter Davies (peter.davies@mexiconewsdaily.com)

President Sheinbaum celebrates love, fraternity and Mexican values in Christmas message

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President Sheinbaum and her husband in front of a Christmas tree
President Claudia Sheinbaum made her Christmas remarks at the National Palace, accompanied by her husband, first gentleman Jesús María Tarriba. (Gobierno de México)

As families across the country gathered for Christmas Eve, President Claudia Sheinbaum released a video message from the National Palace celebrating unity and the enduring values that bind Mexicans together during the holiday season.

“To all Mexican families, we wish you a happy Christmas Eve and a happy Christmas,” Sheinbaum began. “We know that tonight in every corner of the country, there is hope … In a city neighborhood, in a small, rural town, on the coast and in the desert, in the north, in the center and in the southeast of our beautiful Mexico, there’s love and fraternity.”

Mensaje de Navidad 2025 de la presidenta Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo

The president described Mexicans as “a people who know how to gather around the table, who turn the simple into celebration, who embrace tightly and never forget their own.”

She also expressed gratitude to previous generations “who taught us to resist with dignity and to love with our souls,” while thanking the nation’s children “who remind us every day why it’s worth fighting.”

The president gave special recognition to those spending Christmas away from home, including Mexicans working abroad, members of the armed forces, police officers, healthcare workers, firefighters, and transportation workers. “In Mexico, we know how to accompany each other even at a distance,” she said.

Calling for national unity, Sheinbaum urged: “May this Christmas Eve embrace us as a nation, may the solidarity that defines us and the love for our land give us great strength.”

The president concluded with a reminder about priorities during the holiday season: “Let us remember that the most important thing is not the material, but values and love for others, love for family and love for our beloved Mexico.”

The next day, the President traveled to Acapulco for a short Christmas vacation. The destination is significant as the city — once Mexico’s tourism powerhouse — continues to recovery from the devastation of Hurricane Otis two years ago and more recently, Hurricane John.

The president said Tuesday that she will spend Dec. 25-27 in the Guerrero resort town before returning to the National Palace to welcome in the new year.

Mexico News Daily


This story was written by a Mexico News Daily staff editor with the assistance of Claude, then revised and fact-checked before publication.

That time in 1930 when the Mexican Government replaced Santa with Quetzalcóatl

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Lord Quetzalcóatl as Santa
It’d be absolutely terrifying to be in Lord Quetzalcóatl’s naughty list, wouldn’t it? (Andrea Fischer via Canva AI)

Okay, so, before you start making weird assumptions: No, Mexican children do not write Christmas letters to Quetzalcóatl. Kids never have, and probably never will. Although ancient Mexica families did observe a religious veneration of the Lord of the Cosmos, Christmas was not even a thing in the Americas. Not before the Conquest, that is.

However! There was a time when, in an effort to purge Mexico of the “capitalist traditions of the United States,” the Mexican government tried to replace Santa Claus — the terrible symbol of unfettered capitalism — with our beloved feathered serpent. How on Earth did that happen, you may ask? Here’s a rather unorthodox Christmas carol. Mexican style, for your delight.

Did Quetzalcóatl ever celebrate Christmas?

Quetzalcóatl
Anyone would’ve loved to receive gifts from Quetzalcóatl on Christmas Eve. (Andrea Fischer/MNA)

The easy answer is no, not exactly. However, the winter solstice has been regarded as a holy moment across millennia in several ancient civilizations. The Romans, for example, celebrated Saturnalia, the annual festival to celebrate “the rebirth” of the year, during the winter solstice in the Julian calendar. Romans held raging parties with bacchanals, honoring Saturn, the God of Time and Harvest. Curiously enough, it was celebrated on Dec. 25.

Believe it or not, this Roman (and pagan) celebration has more to do with the Christian Christmas than Jesus himself. “The choice of December 25 as the date of Jesus’ birth has nothing to do with the Bible,” researcher Diarmaid MacCulloch, professor of Church history at Oxford University, explained to the BBC, “but was a rather conscious and explicit choice to use the winter solstice to symbolize Christ’s role as the light of the world.”

In this part of the world, the Mexica Empire also celebrated the winter solstice. However, they honored the birth of Huitzilopochtli, the God of War, who was also the solar deity of the Mexica pantheon. So yes, indeed, a “new coming of the light” was celebrated in pre-Columbian times, as documented by the Autonomous University of the State of Hidalgo researchers. Culturally referred to as Panquetzaliztli, this festival commemorated the god’s birth and the triumph of light over darkness.

Priests, artisans and civilians alike participated in ritual battles, processions and the distribution of an idol made of corn dough (tzoalli). So yes, the Mexica Empire did host an annual celebration for the birth of their solar deity. It was not Jesus, of course, and it was not Quetzalcóatl, either — however enthusiastic PRI politicians were about it.

Quetzalcóatl, the great Lord of… Christmas?

So, no. Quetzalcóatl has nothing to do with Christmas. At all. For centuries, he was venerated in the Mexica Empire as “the great blower that energizes the cosmos,” as documented by UNAM researchers. He was also considered the creator and destroyer of “the great cosmic eras,” which positioned him in “a fundamental role in the founding myths of this pre-Hispanic culture.” The sacred feathered serpent was often depicted as the Lord of the Winds in the form of Ehécatl as well.

Given the importance Quetzalcóatl had in the pre-Columbian worldview in present-day Mexico, some PRI politicians in the 20th century decided it was a great idea to consolidate national identity through these ancient deities. In their minds, nothing screams Mexico like Quetzalcóatl on Christmas Eve (what?).

Quetzalcóatl
Who needs Santa Claus, anyway? (Wikimedia Commons)

It was 1930. The Minister of Public Education, Carlos Trejo y Lerdo de Tejada, agreed with former President Pascual Ortiz Rubio that it would be convenient to replace Santa Claus with Quetzalcóatl. “The idea was for a Mexican figure to instill in boys and girls a love for their race and culture,” according to Gaceta UNAM magazine. On Christmas Eve, you may ask? Yes. Exactly on Christmas Eve, the day on which all Christians across the world celebrate baby Jesus’ birth, Mexican children were urged by authorities to write letters to the sacred feathered serpent.

Giving away toys in the name of our Great Lord Quetzalcóatl

On Dec. 23, 1930, the Ministry of Culture organized a historic gift-giving event at Estadio Nacional, located in Colonia Roma. A replica of the temple dedicated to Quetzalcóatl was built for the occasion. That night, former First Lady Josefina Ortiz gave away toys, clothing and candy to children in need — all in the name of Our Great Lord Quetzalcóatl. Who needs Santa Claus, anyway? At the end of the ceremony, the hymn to Quetzalcóatl was sung.

No one liked the Quetzalcóatl-themed Christmas celebration. In a country where 97.7% of the population identified as Catholic (at the time), the event was seen as a sacrilege: “the intervention of a pagan deity in a Catholic celebration,” per Gaceta UNAM. Very few admitted they kind of liked the idea.

In the end, the idea simply didn’t stick, and poor Lord Quetzalcóatl silently returned to the Mexican holy pantheon.

Andrea Fischer contributes to the features desk at Mexico News Daily. She has edited and written for National Geographic en Español and Muy Interesante México, and continues to be an advocate for anything that screams science. Or yoga. Or both.

The Christmas night that Mexico’s National Anthropology Museum was robbed of its treasures

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Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City
The Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City, site of one of the greatest art heists in history. (Wikimedia Commons/kornemuz)

The robbery at Mexico City’s National Museum of Anthropology remains one of the most astonishing events in art history. This is what happened.

It was Christmas Eve in 1985, and nearly everyone in Mexico City was celebrating with family and loved ones — almost everyone. On the outskirts of the capital, two young veterinary students had a very different plan in mind: robbing the National Museum of Anthropology.

Christmas shadows

Carlos Perches and Ramón Sardina
Carlos Perches and Ramón Sardina, the two young veterinary students behind the 1985 heist. Perches was ultimately arrested and jailed. Sardina has never been apprehended. (Facebook/Metropolitano Aguascalientes)

For six months, the alleged perpetrators of the heist, Carlos Perches and Ramón Sardina, planned exactly how they would enter the museum. The two inspected every possible entrance and exit. They conducted a meticulous review of the museum’s most valuable and beloved artifacts and visited the museum at least 50 times to ensure that everything would be under control on the day of the robbery. Finally, during the December festivities, they decided to make their move.

According to the investigation afterward, they climbed over one of the museum’s walls and entered through an air duct. Despite the presence of nine guards on site, they managed to slip past security and reach the exhibition halls. At the time, the museum had no alarm system, and many artifacts were likely neither individually cataloged nor insured.

The Crown Jewel

It is estimated that Carlos and Ramón entered the building between 1:00 a.m. and 4:00 a.m., a perfect three-hour window to remove around 140 pieces from the museum’s galleries. The precision of the selections made it clear they had studied not only every room, but also the artifacts themselves and their histories.

Among the objects taken were the famous Mask of Pakal, the Bat God Mask and the Obsidian Monkey Vessel, along with smaller pieces of gold jewelry and jade ornaments. That same morning — while children across the country were opening Christmas gifts —journalist Jacobo Zabludovsky announced the dramatic news that a gang of thieves had looted one of Mexico’s most important historical institutions.

Facing the Consequences

The director of Mexico’s National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) at the time, Enrique Florescano, stated that the robbery was not discovered until the next day, when the night guards switched shifts with the morning staff. He also maintained that the heist was not an isolated event but part of a wave of art crimes that had taken place in different countries throughout the decade.

The Mexican government partnered with the media to encourage citizens to report any information that might help locate the missing pieces. Shortly afterward, INTERPOL joined the search, and Mexico reinforced its borders to prevent the perpetrators from leaving the country.

No apparent motive

Mask of Pakal
The Mask of Pakal, one of many of the art objects stolen in the heist so famous it would have been impossible to fence. (Wikimedia Commons/Wolfgang Sauber)

Nearly four decades later, the motive behind the theft remains a mystery. From a trafficking standpoint, the artifacts were so valuable that they would have been impossible to sell.

Their historical importance makes them priceless, and their uniqueness makes them perfectly traceable. Any attempt to traffic them would have immediately revealed the culprits. Likewise, it is improbable that any buyers existed; no collector, no matter how bold, would risk possessing such recognizable artifacts.

Aftermath of the museum heist

The National Museum of Anthropology did not close its doors and continued to receive visitors. Surprisingly, attendance actually surged. Thousands of people of all ages came to marvel at the empty display cases.

“After the robbery, the museum was visited much more than before. People came to see the empty cases, which relates to that saying: ‘You don’t know what you have until you lose it,’” actor Gael García Bernal remarked about a film (“Museo,” 2018) inspired by the historic event.

In the end, the artifacts did resurface — but in the most unexpected way. Four years after the robbery, Carlos Perches’ mother found the pieces while cleaning her son’s closet. Shocked and terrified, she went straight to the museum carrying suitcases filled with priceless artifacts, bringing the dramatic chapter to a close.

Lydia Leija is a linguist, journalist, and visual storyteller. She has directed three feature films, and her audiovisual work has been featured in national and international media. She’s been part of National Geographic, Muy Interesante, and Cosmopolitan.

MND Local: The spirit of the season on the Baja California peninsula

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San Pedro Mártir
If you’re looking for a white Christmas in Baja California, the San Pedro Mártir mountain range is your best bet. (CONANP)

For most of the Baja California peninsula, a white Christmas is but a dream. It’s downright warm in Los Cabos, for instance, where the average temperature on the holiday is 82 degrees Fahrenheit. In La Paz and Loreto, it’s a little cooler, but still in the 70s, while Ensenada, Mexicali and Tijuana all enjoy temperatures in the 60s, on average. 

But there are a few places where it does snow, with the mountain range of San Pedro Mártir being the most likely to see snowflakes during the holiday season. During winter storms, the temperature can even drop below zero. Home to the highest peak on the peninsula, Picacho del Diablo, at over 10,000 feet in elevation, and an astronomical observatory at over 9,000 operated by Institute of Astronomy as the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), it’s not only possible that there’s a white Christmas in San Pedro Mártir, but that Santa’s sleigh is sighted by the observatory’s high-powered telescope in the skies above.

San Pedro Mártir
San Pedro Mártir is famed not only for seasonal snow but also for pine forests and abundant wildlife. (Baja Califoria Tourism)

Indeed, since San Pedro Mártir is also the oldest national park in Baja California, and is home not only to bighorn sheep and California condors, but also mule deer, it’s also possible in the event of a reindeer emergency that Santa could source a somewhat appropriate replacement.

But let’s be clear. In Tijuana, the “Gateway to Mexico” and the most populous city on the 760-mile-long Baja California peninsula, no one waits for Santa Claus. The children there don’t look for sleighs, but for men on Harley-Davidsons.

Outlaw bikers deliver toys in Tijuana

The Solo Ángeles motorcycle club was founded in Tijuana in 1959 by a former member of the Hell’s Angels. But as a member of the club once noted as a distinction:  “Far from being ‘Hells Angels,’ they are ‘Only Angels.’”

That’s certainly true when it comes to giving away toys to disadvantaged children for Christmas. Since the mid-1980s, the Solo Angeles have organized an annual Tijuana Toy Run. This year marked the 40th anniversary of the event, with 5,000 toys delivered to kids after some members of the club, along with many motorcyclists from the U.S., caravaned to Avenida Revolución in the heart of downtown Tijuana. 

Some 2,000 motorcyclists were part of the caravan this year. Through the decades, the number of toys delivered has probably been in the hundreds of thousands, a testament to the long-running charitable commitment of the club as well as to other participating motorcyclists from Tijuana and Southern California. 

“We wish all the children of Tijuana the very best, and we will always be here participating and doing our part, as people should,” Jesús Moreno, the president of Solo Ángeles, told La Jornada.

Tijuana Toy Run
Over 2,000 motorcyclists, led by the motorcycle club Solo Ángeles, were in Tijuana this year to hand out toys to local children. (Facebook)

The Baja California peninsula’s food angels

In addition to charitable organizations for gift giving, there are also many around the Baja California peninsula whose mission is to ensure everyone has enough to eat, and not just for the holidays either. This is a year-round commitment.

Each organization has its own story. For Feeding Los Cabos Kids (FLCK), it began with a single traveler. When Donna Brnjic visited Los Cabos in 2004, she immediately noticed that beyond the touristy areas of the destination, many children seemed to be hungry. Her solution was to take $100 and buy as much food as she could, which she then handed out.

Fast forward two decades, and FLCK is a non-profit ministered by Cabo Church, with 14 community kitchens serving some 20,000 meals monthly. The overhead of such an endeavor has become enormous — it costs US $24,000 per year to fund one kitchen — but thanks to generous donations (yes, donating is tax-deductible) and the work of volunteers, FLCK continues with its good work. 

The same could be said for Alianza para la Seguridad Alimentaria (The Alliance for Food Security), headquartered in La Paz, although it operates on an even larger scale: feeding 80,000 people per month through its network of 90 independent community kitchens. This non-profit organization was founded in 2013 to address food insecurity in Baja California Sur. It does so, in part, through its Banco de Alimentos Sudcaliforniano, which utilizes food banks to distribute food to community kitchens located in poorer areas of the state.

In addition to donations, much of the food is recovered from hotels, supermarkets and restaurants. It’s food that is still good, but would be wasted were it not donated. 

Seasonal blessings at peninsular churches

As in the rest of overwhelmingly Catholic Mexico, the holidays are a busy time at regional churches, from El Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe on Dec. 12 to El Día de Reyes on Jan. 6. The Baja California peninsula also offers some beautiful and historic churches to accompany the spiritual grace, from Tijuana’s Santuario de la Virgen de Guadalupe in the north, with its origins in the late 19th century, to Parroquia Misión de San José del Cabo in the south, which is related only in spirit to the city’s historical mission, but pays tribute with a tiled mosaic portraying the martyrdom of Jesuit missionary Nicolás Tamaral in 1734. 

Santuario de la Virgen de Guadalupe in Tijuana
Santuario de la Virgen de Guadalupe in Tijuana is one of the Baja California peninsula’s most historic and architecturally magnificent churches. (Wikimedia Commons / Exprimidor)

It should be noted, however, that the peninsula is welcoming to visitors of all religious persuasions — with the houses of worship to prove it — and to those with none at all. Churches representing many Protestant denominations may be found, for example, as can Jewish synagogues, Muslim mosques and even Buddhist temples. 

Which is to say, there are no prerequisites for visitors, other than an open mind, an open heart and an appreciation for the spirit of the season.

Chris Sands is the former Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best and writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook. He’s also a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily.

Taste of Mexico: How to avoid pulling a Richard Hart

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Richard Hart, baker
Don't do what this man did! Don't insult a country without bothering to learn anything about its culture and culinary traditions. (Richard Hart, Baker)

You probably saw it in your feed, in the news or on Mexico News Daily. British baker
Richard Hart dared to declare that el bolillo — Mexico’s beloved white roll — was “a low-
quality bread,” and Mexicans, collectively, felt as though he had mentado la
madre (sworn at our mothers).

El bolillo is a cornerstone of Mexican cuisine. It holds together our tortas, becomes
dessert when buttered and sprinkled with sugar, and serves as comfort food after a
fright — a meme-worthy “toma un bolillo pa’l susto” moment (“have a roll for the scare”).

Mexico's distinctive bolillos
Mexico’s distinctive bolillos are not a low-class bread, despite what Richard Hart might think. (Instagram)

To us, this humble bread is delicious, trustworthy and endlessly comforting. As I explained in my earlier tortas article, el bolillo is a piece of national identity. So
when a foreigner — especially one who has invested in a Mexico City bakery, Green
Rhino — criticizes our bread; it feels personal, almost like a slight against us as a people.

In the article’s comment section on MND and across social media, many agreed with
Hart, especially foreign readers: “Mexican bread just isn’t good.” As we say here, en
gustos se rompen géneros — to each his own. Even though UNESCO recognizes
Mexican cuisine as part of humanity’s intangible cultural heritage, doesn’t mean everyone must like it. But if you choose to live, invest or belong to a culture not your own, there’s a basic responsibility to learn from it, not just consume it.

Food, when viewed not merely as sustenance but as an expression of the land that
shapes it, becomes an X-ray of belief, economy and identity. Food is one of the best
ways to know a nation. Had Mr. Hart subscribed to Mexico News Daily and read our
articles about tortas and pan dulce, but also those on our economy and culture, he
might have understood that better.

If you, like Mr. Hart, dislike pan dulce or bolillos, I won’t try to change your taste buds.
But I do want to offer you some context on our bread culture, since it is a staple.

Historical dimension

Mexican bread stems from two distinct traditions. Pan dulce consists of reimagined
French, Spanish and Portuguese recipes that were adapted during the 19th and
20th century — with the arrival of modern and industrial ovens — into the dazzling
variety available in every local bakery today. As I’ve written before, the assortment of
sweet breads in a given town reflect the availability of regional ingredients.

Savory bread, meanwhile, is a Spanish inheritance. If you’ve traveled through Spain,
you’ll recognize our bolillos, teleras and molletes under different names — especially in
Andalusia.

Pan dulce
Pan dulce, too, is a a beloved and delicious Mexican tradition. (Facebook)

During the Spanish Civil War, a significant wave of Spaniards migrated to Mexico. They
founded great universities, but also gifted us their bakeries, furniture shops and more. The best bakeries in the neighborhoods where my parents and I grew up were those
proudly run by “los gachupines.”

Economic dimension

The kind of bread Hart celebrates comes with a steep price tag. In Mexico City, a
supermarket sourdough loaf costs about 80 pesos; at Green Rhino, prices climb from
60 to 165. Mexico’s Ministry of Economy reports that the average monthly salary in
2025 was 6,430 pesos. Clearly, his bakery doesn’t cater to the average local.

His remark — “They don’t really have a bread culture. They make tortas with these ugly
white buns that are cheap and industrially made” — reveals something deeper. “Cheap”
and “industrial” aren’t aesthetic flaws; they’re symptoms of economic structures. When
quality food becomes a luxury good, the problem isn’t taste — it’s inequality. Un
bolillo costs about 5 pesos. His artisan loaf, 165. Taste is relative; economics are not. At
the same time, 5 pesos for a bolillo sounds like a great deal.

Raw material

“The wheat in Mexico isn’t good,” Hart claimed. “They don’t have much of a wheat-
growing culture, and what they use is overprocessed.” That’s not accurate. Wheat is
Mexico’s second most cultivated grain after corn. Though nonnative, it’s deeply rooted
in our agricultural landscape.

Here, wheat faced a deadly fungus, chahuistle, that destroyed crops. That word lives on
in our slang. When life falls apart, we say, “ya te cayó el chahuistle” (“the blight’s hit
you”). Breeding resistant strains was imperative. Since the Porfirian era, the Mexican
government has sought to enhance grain efficiency, particularly wheat, to supply the à la
française bakeries sprouting across the country.

After World War II, the Rockefeller Foundation, with the Mexican government, funded
research led by Norman Borlaug to improve cereal yields — a project that earned him the
1970 Nobel Peace Prize. The goal wasn’t to exploit or poison the world; it responded to
a genuine global desire to fight famine in the postwar world.

Technicalities

Mexico City
It is true that in high-altitude locales like Mexico City, bread recipes must be altered. (Unsplash/Alexis Tostado)

Discussing this debate with friends, Gabriela Espinosa, a professional chef and owner
of Delia in Bangkok, offered a technical perspective that humbled all of us who’ve
learned “baking” by streaming shows. In high-altitude Mexico City — 2,000 meters above
sea level — geography itself is the baker’s first enemy.

As she explained, “You have to adjust recipes for altitude.” Yeast behaves
unpredictably; lower air pressure makes dough rise faster but weaker. Water evaporates
quickly; kneading requires more effort. In short, imported recipes — from sea-level countries like France — must be rewritten with patience and local precision. Baking here
is not imitation; it’s adaptation.

We DO have bread culture!

The rebuttal to Hart’s insult has been loud and clear: Mexico does have a bread culture.
It may not be British, but that doesn’t make it any less of a culture. Most Mexicans begin
or end their day with sweet bread. When the temperature drops or rain hits the streets,
we turn instinctively to bread once again.

According to official data, each Mexican consumes 57 kilograms of wheat annually. Corn
is our soul, wheat still holds its ground. From Mexico City to Sonora, Guerrero to
Oaxaca, breads differ wildly. Their diversity reflects regional ingredients and two
centuries of evolution — reshaped by local tastes, customs and needs. You may find it
unfamiliar or even unappealing, but it stands as a testament to our enduring
gastronomic heritage.

Bread — both artisanal and industrial — remains central to our identity. Even Bimbo, the
world’s largest bakery, is a cultural symbol. Dismiss it as mass-produced if you will, but
it embodies our own definition of progress, mastery and national taste.

The “Before Green Rhino” bakeries in CDMX

I want to apologize in advance to all our subscribers who aren’t in CMDX, but Mr. Hart
started this centralization by establishing his bakery in Roma Norte. Jijitl! How I
imagine a laugh sounds in Nahuatl.

Rosetta in CDMX
If you doubt the quality of bread in Mexico City, then clearly you’ve never been to Panadería Rosetta. (Rosetta)

Panadería Rosetta

Chef Elena Reygadas gave us, back in 2012, one of the most emblematic bakeries in
Colonia Roma. Beyond the loaves, which are a delight, her selection of pan dulce is
wonderful. My favorite used to be the rosemary bun.

Bottega

If anyone understands dough, it is Italian chef Marco Carboni, who opened his first
restaurant in Mexico City in 2016: Sartoria. In 2019, Marco opened his shop, Bottega,
created to sell Italian products of extremely high quality. His loaves and seasonal
breads are exceptional, like everything else in the store. And try the espresso
cortado — it is my favorite in CDMX.

Odette

Odette opened in 2016 in Lomas de Chapultepec with the idea of making artisanal
bread that was delicious and felt like home. Their loaves are among my favorites, and
fortunately, you do not have to trek all the way to Lomas; there is a branch in Condesa.

City Market o La Comer

Hear me out: for quick supermarket bread that gets you out of a bind, City Market or La
Comer are among my favorites. It is good bread. It is not the same as bread from a
specialized bakery, but it is highly convenient.

Globo, Maison Kaiser, La Esperanza

Mr. Hart criticized commercial bakeries, and that part is understandable. If what you
want is a strictly artisanal loaf, this might not be your place. But if what you are looking
for is a reliable standard of quality and price, these are your bakeries. They are
specialized — unlike La Comer or City Market — and you can find them in several cities
around the country, with consistent quality.

Don’t pull a Richard Hart

Mexicans know this exhaustion: seeing our culture constantly equated with cheapness,
mediocrity or kitsch. We live under the shadow of stereotypes, like every culture outside
the Euro-American mainstream.

A decorative plate filled with mole poblano and rice.
It’s okay to not like bolillos or mole poblano. It’s not okay to use cultural superiority as a reason. (Visit Puebla)

Outsiders aren’t expected to know us. But those who choose to build a life or business
here carry some responsibility to understand the land they now call home. You’re free to
dislike bolillos, mole, traffic or our refusal to say “no.” Just don’t use cultural superiority
as a seasoning.

Friends, don’t pull a Richard Hart. We pour thought, history and heart into every article to help you not just live here, but belong. Think of your time in Mexico as an opportunity to build a multicultural coexistence rooted in respect for our cultures and traditions.

Maria Meléndez is an influencer with half a degree in journalism.

Lights and magic at Navidalia, a Christmas-themed park in Guadalajara

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Navidalia in Guadalajara
Navidalia, the popular Christmas themed park in Guadalajara, has been open since 2019. (Charlotte Smith)

The evening began with an entirely unnecessary decision. There was a last-minute internal debate between an ugly Christmas T-shirt and a warmer, undeniably cheerier reindeer sweatshirt. The reindeer won, but that choice cost us time. So, by the time we arrived at Navidalia in Guadalajara at 6:48 p.m. instead of the 6 p.m. we’d agreed on, I was cozy, but already convinced we were doomed to spend the night in what I could see was a terribly long line.

The night before, we’d passed by and watched the line stretching on and on and on. Joining what now looked even longer, I braced myself for disappointment, assuming we’d be lucky to make it inside by 8 p.m.

Navidalia in Guadalajara
It doesn’t take a Christmas miracle to get into Navidalia. Just 790 pesos per person. (Charlotte Smith)

Then, unexpectedly, a sort of Christmas miracle occurred. The line moved smoothly, almost effortlessly. The gates opened right at 7 p.m., exactly as promised, and by 7:11 p.m., we were inside. 

Just like that, the waiting dissolved into light, and my bad mood evaporated as if it had never been invited in the first place.

The scale of Navidalia

Navidalia doesn’t reveal itself slowly. It embraces you immediately. From the first steps inside, the park glows with an almost cinematic warmth. Its carefully layered landscape of light feels immersive rather than overwhelming.

Thousands of bulbs twinkle from trees, archways, and sculptural installations. The effect is soft, golden and generous, as if the entire space were designed to make visitors feel welcome.

Music drifts continuously through the park, moving from one area to the next. Classic Christmas melodies mingle with contemporary arrangements and live performances, creating a soundtrack that feels curated rather than repetitive. It subtly shapes your mood without demanding attention, encouraging you to slow down, look around and linger.

What stands out immediately is the scale. Navidalia is expansive, but never overwhelming. Despite thousands of visitors moving through the park each night, the layout is intuitive. 

Navidalia in Guadalajara
The lighting of Navidalia is one of its most spectacular features. (Charlotte Smith)

Wide pathways curve gently, opening into plazas, themed areas, and viewing spaces that allow crowds to disperse naturally. There’s no sense of being funnelled or rushed. You don’t feel lost, but you don’t feel managed either. A rare feat for an event of this size.

The many faces of Navidalia

Each area of Navidalia carries its own visual personality. Navidalia Posada leans into warmth and tradition, echoing Mexican Christmas imagery with rich reds, golds and familiar textures. Navidalia Nórdica shifts cooler and more ethereal, filled with silvers, blues and lights that feel almost icy. Navidalia Europa balances nostalgia and elegance, anchored by towering trees, choirs and classic holiday scenes.

Then there’s Navidalia Oriente, by far my favourite. It feels quieter and more contemplative. Lanterns glow softly in warm ambers and reds, light reflects off curved structures, and there are countless delicate details inspired by Asian winter festivals.

The pace here is slower, the lighting more deliberate. Reflections shimmer on the lake in the Parque Temático, where Christmas barges are aglow with the light of surrounding fire dancers.

Throughout the park, Christmas trees shimmer with carefully coordinated lights, while smaller, intimate installations invite closer inspection. 

There’s a glowing tunnel that feels like walking through a constellation, whimsical scenes built at human scale, and larger-than-life displays that stop visitors in their tracks.

Navidalia in Guadalajara
The author, amid the shimmering beauty of Navidalia, Guadalajara’s seasonal parque temático. (Charlotte Smith)

Everywhere you look, there’s intention. Color palettes shift gently from one zone to the next. Textures add depth, and details reward lingering. It isn’t about brightness, it’s about balance.

The price of Christmas

We’d considered upgrading to the Comfort Pass, which promises shorter waits and access to certain attractions, but it would have meant a jump to 1,720 pesos per ticket from our general admission price of 790 pesos. Ultimately, it wasn’t in the budget this month, but once inside, it became clear we hadn’t missed out.

The few Comfort Pass attractions had long waits anyway, and general admission guests can purchase individual tickets if they wish. We didn’t feel the need, though. Navidalia isn’t designed around waiting. It’s designed for wandering.

And that wandering is where the park truly shines. 

Live shows appear organically throughout the evening, sometimes announced, sometimes discovered by chance. Performers emerge among the lights, music swelling just enough to gather a crowd without overwhelming the atmosphere.

The performances feel integrated, like part of the décor that suddenly begins to move and sing. People pause, smile, watch and then drift on, carrying the moment with them.

Food and drink at Navidalia

Navidalia in Guadalajara
Navidalia celebrates Christmas traditions from around the world, including, of course, those from Mexico. It’s enough to make you hungry for tamales. (Charlotte Smith)

Despite the number of visitors, nothing feels congested. Lines for food and drink are refreshingly short and move quickly. The offerings are comforting, classic and exactly what a December night calls for.

We ordered tamales and Baileys Irish Cream hot chocolates, both served piping hot and without waiting. For two people, the total came to 600 pesos, about US $32. The price felt almost rebellious given the rumors we’d heard about Navidalia being prohibitively expensive.

A genuine sense of goodwill

We found seating almost immediately, which was a small but significant win. The seating areas throughout the park are clearly considered, placed thoughtfully so each one complements its surrounding theme. Sitting down doesn’t pause the experience; it enhances it. You can rest, savor your food and drink and observe without ever feeling disconnected from the park’s flow.

We lingered for a while, hands wrapped around warm cups, watching people pass by. Families, couples, groups of friends and visitors of every age all moved at their own pace. The mood throughout the park is perhaps its greatest achievement. There’s a genuine sense of shared goodwill that feels unforced and contagious. 

People smile at one another. Strangers exchange greetings. “Hola, feliz Navidad” drifts through the air as naturally as the music. It feels less like a crowd and more like a temporary community.

Near one of the most impressive trees in Navidalia Europa, towering and radiant, a crowd gathered as the lights were lit. The master of ceremonies began singing John Lennon’s “Happy Xmas (War is Over).” His voice became several, then many. People stood together, singing softly, faces lit by thousands of lights and something quieter underneath. I was unexpectedly moved. It was the kind of moment that reminds you why public spaces matter.

Navidalia in Guadalajara
So this is Christmas,” John Lennon once sang, and the thought is ever-present at Navidalia. (Charlotte Smith)

Then there was a detail that deserves its own quiet standing ovation: the restrooms. Clean, well-lit, easy to find and astonishingly free of lines. It’s the kind of logistical success that rarely makes headlines but dramatically shapes how comfortable people feel. Navidalia understands that magic is fragile, and nothing breaks it faster than panicky delays.

Layers of unfolded joys

As the night unfolded, the park revealed itself in layers. Lights shifted subtly as the holiday spirit deepened. Music changed moods without abrupt transitions. Each turn offered something new, but nothing felt frantic or excessive. 

The experience encourages presence. You don’t rush to see everything because you don’t feel like you’ll miss out if you don’t

By the time we prepared to leave, close to 11 p.m., with the park open until midnight, my earlier grumpiness felt laughable, like a rumor I’d once believed. We hadn’t waited long. We hadn’t overspent. We hadn’t needed upgrades or shortcuts. We’d simply arrived later than planned, dressed in festive indecision, and been welcomed into a space that knew exactly what it was doing and exactly what we needed.

Walking back into the Guadalajara night, the sounds of Navidalia softened behind us, but the feeling lingered. The warmth, the ease, the collective cheer followed us beyond the gates. It was the kind of Christmas experience that doesn’t exhaust you or demand gratitude; it earns it.

Why Navidalia succeeds

Navidalia succeeds because it understands something essential. That holiday magic lives in comfort as much as spectacle, in flow as much as sparkle, and in the small, thoughtful details that allow joy to unfold naturally.

Navidalia in Guadalajara
You’ll be wishing fellow attendees at Navidalia a Merry Christmas in several languages during your visit. (Charlotte Smith)

Sometimes that magic begins with a reindeer sweatshirt, a moving line, and the pleasure of being completely wrong about how the night would go.

If you’re in Guadalajara through Dec. 30, I wholeheartedly recommend experiencing Navidalia. I left warmer, lighter and genuinely jollier. I’ll be back year after year after year, festive outfit indecision and all!

Charlotte Smith is a writer and journalist based in Mexico. Her work focuses on travel, politics, and community. You can follow along with her travel stories at www.salsaandserendipity.com.

 

What got Mexico talking in 2025: A year in cultural flashpoints

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Sheinbaum before an early map of Mexico
President Sheinbaum was memeified shortly into the year when she schooled U.S. President Trump on geography. (Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

From bread culture to sandals to Shakira and Sheinbaum, 2025 was a year when Mexico couldn’t help but make headlines — sometimes for all the right reasons, sometimes for all the wrong ones, and sometimes just because the internet decided chaos was the vibe.

Here are the ten cultural moments that had foreigners and locals alike saying, “wait, what?”

1. Emilia Pérez: The musical that broke the internet (and many hearts)

Nothing says “international incident” quite like a French musical comedy about a Mexican drug lord’s gender transition that then swept the Golden Globes. Director Jacques Audiard’s Emilia Pérez won Best Picture (Musical or Comedy) and Best Non-English Language Film in January, but the celebration was muted in Mexico, to put it mildly.

‘Emilia Pérez’ is the most insensitive film I’ve seen in years

The film tells the story of a cartel boss who transitions and then creates a nonprofit to search for bodies of the disappeared — a premise that felt, to many Mexicans, like turning their country’s most painful crisis into entertainment. With over 121,000 people officially missing due to forced disappearance, the subject matter hits close to home. Critics argued that making the perpetrator of violence the hero was tone-deaf at best, insulting at worst.

Audiard issued an apology at the film’s Mexican premiere, admitting he may have approached the topic too lightly. Meanwhile, Mexicans online weren’t having it, and some even requested a refund after watching it in theaters.

2. Gulf of what now?

When Donald Trump announced his intention to rename the Gulf of Mexico “the Gulf of America” in January, President Claudia Sheinbaum had the perfect response: a history lesson with receipts.

Standing before an 1814 map at her morning press conference, Sheinbaum suggested that if Trump wanted to get into renaming games, perhaps the United States should be called “Mexican America” — a reference to how the Constitution of Apatzingán once referred to what’s now the U.S. Southwest. “It sounds nice, right?” she said with a smile that launched a thousand memes.

3. Oaxaca’s designs get appropriated (again)

For Oaxacan artisans, 2025 was another exhausting year of playing whack-a-mole with international brands that think Indigenous designs are free real estate. Multiple U.S. companies found themselves in hot water for appropriating traditional Oaxacan patterns without credit or compensation.

The backlash intensified when Adidas launched its Oaxaca Slip-On sandal in August, which takes inspiration from the huarache craftsmanship of the community of Villa Hidalgo Yalalág.

a pair of sandals
Oaxaca’s governor not only alleged that Adidas culturally appropriated the design of its new sandal, but also called the use of the word Oaxaca in the product’s name “identity theft.” (X)

State authorities in Oaxaca and federal officials in Mexico City condemned Adidas for what they call cultural appropriation of the traditional Mexican sandals, calling for an immediate halt to sales.

In a statement, Adidas responded by saying it “recognizes and values the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous communities and the meaning of their artisanal heritage,” and expressed willingness to work with local authorities on “restitution to the people who were plagiarized.”

4. Narcocorridos get the boot

The year saw an unprecedented crackdown on narcocorridos — the ballads that romanticize cartel life — with multiple Mexican states banning the genre at public events and some radio stations.

The move sparked fierce debate about censorship versus public safety, with authorities arguing the songs glorify violence while defenders claimed they’re just documenting reality.

The controversy reached peak absurdity when Los Alegres del Barranco, a popular narcocorrido group, had their U.S. visas revoked mid-tour over their lyrical content.

5. From street sweeper to NPR star: The artistic arc of Macario Martínez

Sometimes the internet gets it right. In February, Mexico City street sweeper Macario Martínez posted a TikTok in his work uniform with his song “Sueña Lindo, Corazón” playing in the background. Within 48 hours, the video had millions of views. By October, he was performing on NPR’s legendary Tiny Desk Concert series.

The 23-year-old’s story is the kind of feel-good narrative that reminds you why we’re all addicted to our phones. His indie-folk sound — complete with traditional instruments like the jarana jarocha and quijada de burro (yes, an actual donkey jawbone) — captured something genuine about longing and dreams that resonated across borders.

He’s since quit his sanitation job to focus on music full-time.

Macario Martínez performing
The cozy confines of NPR’s “Tiny Desk” have hosted some of the world’s most talented singer-songwriters, and now Macario Martínez is one of them. (YouTube)

6. Shakira sings for 2 weeks straight in Mexico City

The Colombian superstar sold over 1 million tickets for her Las Mujeres Ya No Lloran World Tour stops in the capital, setting a record for concert attendance in Mexico.

Her 12-date residency at GNP Seguros Stadium (formerly Foro Sol) also highlighted Mexico City’s growing status as a must-play venue for international superstars — a city where artists know they’ll get the kind of reception that makes the logistics of mounting massive stadium shows worth the effort.

7. Fyre Festival 2 fizzles out

You’d think after the spectacular 2017 disaster, the words “Fyre Festival” would be permanently retired. You’d be wrong.

When Billy McFarland announced in February that Fyre Festival 2 would take place on Isla Mujeres, Mexican officials responded with a collective “¿qué?” — because apparently nobody had bothered to inform them.

Later, in March, the organizers said the festival would move to Playa del Carmen. By mid-April, the festival — which was scheduled to take place from May 30 to June 2 — was inevitably postponed.

Fyre Festival 2 abandons Playa del Carmen plans

8. Gentrification goes from simmer to boil

The simmering tensions over gentrification in Mexico City neighborhoods like Condesa and Roma finally exploded in July when hundreds of protesters marched through the streets with signs reading “You’re not an expat, you’re an invader” and chanting “Gringos go home!”

The protest highlighted issues that had been building for years: skyrocketing rents, the conversion of residential buildings into Airbnbs, the displacement of long-time residents and the transformation of neighborhood shops into businesses catering exclusively to foreigners.

While most protesters demonstrated peacefully, a small group vandalized businesses, an optic that permeated the international newsfeed and led many to wonder if CDMX was still welcoming to tourists. Multiple MND articles explored whether rent control could help and presented alternative perspectives on the complex issue.

9. Sheinbaum, the trending topic

Mexico’s first woman president wasn’t just making headlines at home. Claudia Sheinbaum earned a spot on Time’s 100 Most Influential People list, was named by Forbes as one of the world’s most powerful women and even made the New York Times’ most stylish list for 2025.

The international recognition marked a shift in how Mexico’s leadership is perceived globally. Sheinbaum’s combination of scientific credentials (she has a PhD in energy engineering), progressive policies and diplomatic savvy made her a figure of international interest beyond typical political coverage.

10. When a baker got roasted

In December, British baker Richard Hart learned a valuable lesson about talking trash in your adopted country. The co-founder of Green Rhino bakery in Roma Norte called Mexican bread “ugly” on a Danish podcast, dismissed the country’s bread culture and criticized the quality of Mexican flour.

The backlash was swift and brutal. Mexicans — proud of their bolillos, pan dulce and the 600+ varieties of bread in their culinary tradition — were not here for some British guy with a James Beard Award dunking on their carbs. Social media erupted, with people pointing out that Hart’s bakery charges 165 pesos ($9.15) for a fancy sourdough loaf while traditional panaderías serve their communities at a fraction of the price.

Hart issued multiple apologies, promising to “listen more and speak less,” but the damage was done. The incident became a microcosm of larger gentrification frustrations, with Hart representing the foreign entrepreneurs who move to trendy neighborhoods, cater primarily to other foreigners, and then have the audacity to criticize local culture. The lesson? Don’t bite the bolillo that feeds you.

Mexico News Daily


 

This story was written by a Mexico News Daily staff editor with the assistance of Claude, then revised and fact-checked before publication.