Friday, May 9, 2025

Unprecedented 11 million Catholics flock to CDMX’s Guadalupe basilica

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image of pilgrims at the Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City in 2022
Days before the Virgin's feast day on Dec. 12, hundreds of thousands if not millions are already camping out in the area around the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City. (Photo: alex_wolf_mx/Twitter)

Mexico City officials said Monday that they’ve calculated that 11 million Catholic pilgrims arrived in the nation’s capital this year to converge at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Monday marked the culmination of pilgrimages by millions of Catholics from all over Mexico to the shrine to Guadalupe, an invocation of the Virgin Mary often credited with cementing Catholicism in indigenous Mexico. Pilgrims gather annually at her shrine for her feast day on Dec. 12.

City official Martí Batres announced that 11 million people had arrived at the La Villa Basilica complex in the days leading up to the Virgin’s feast day of Dec. 12.

It was not clear whether the number constituted an attendance record for visitors to the Catholic holy site for the Dec. 12 celebrations, but some sources have placed the record at 8 million visitors. The church’s rector recently said he expected turnout for the first restrictions-free celebration since 2020 to surpass previous attendance numbers.

Woman at Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City
A pilgrim places a candle inside the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica in Mexico City on Monday. (Photo: Andrea Murcia/Cuartoscuro

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum said that an estimated 5 million people arrived to the basilica on Sunday alone.

Typically, an estimated 95,000 Catholics per hour pass through the Basilica annually on the Dec. 12 feast day.

The city, which each year launches a massive logistics operation to support the influx, said it provided food and water to pilgrims at government attention centers along five routes into the city and provided medical attention to 2,721 people throughout the days of celebration.

Batres also said that the city had distributed 243,000 liters of water and that cleaning crews had collected 548 tonnes of associated trash since last week when pilgrims began arriving.

Guadalupe Basilica pilgrims camping outside the church the night before Dec. 12
Pilgrims watched over by a religious icon camp outside the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica the night before the Virgin of Guadalupe’s feast day. (Photo: Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

The faithful, a visible sight every year in the capital, come carrying bedding or tents on their backs to camp out in the basilica’s courtyard for days before in anticipation of the celebration. Many also bring family heirlooms  — candles, statues, framed images of the Virgin, crosses and more to be blessed. Some faithful drop to their knees near the entrance and crawl in as a show of devotion or of thanks to the Virgin.

Many Mexicans who do not participate in the pilgrimage will still erect an altar to Guadalupe in their homes and celebrate on this day as well as in churches dedicated to her throughout Mexico.

But the basilica is special because Catholics believe that the Our Lady of Guadalupe first appeared at this site on December 9, 1531, to an indigenous Chichimec convert known as Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. 

The timing of this apparition of the Virgin Mary — who was dark-skinned and spoke in Nahuatl — came during the Spanish conquest’s earliest days in Mexico, only 10 years after the fall of Mexica capital of Tenochtitlan. At the time, inhabitants of the Valley of Mexico were still naturally skeptical of the religion their conquerors wanted them to adopt. 

The story of the Virgin’s apparition to the indigenous Juan Diego is credited with having converted millions in Mexico to Catholicism.

pilgrim at the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica
A pilgrim dressed as Our Lady of Guadalupe holds a statue of the Virgin she brought with her to the basilica. (Photo: Daniel Augusto/Cuartoscuro)

According to Catholic lore, Juan Diego is said to have been walking past Tepeyac Hill on his way to religious instruction when the Virgin appeared, instructing him to tell the archbishop of Mexico City, Juan de Zumárraga, to erect a chapel in her honor.

But de Zumarrága was skeptical. Juan Diego returned to Tepeyac Hill later that day, when the Virgin is said to have appeared a second time. After Juan Diego informed her of his failure to convince the archbishop, she insisted that he return to de Zumárraga and repeat her request.

On Dec. 10, Juan Diego returned to the bishop, and this time, de Zumarrága asked for proof, so Juan Diego returned to Tepeyac Hill, where the Virgin appeared a third time, assuring him that she’d provide a sign the next day. 

Saint Juan Diego by Jose Guadalupe Posada
A somewhat rare rendering of Saint Juan Diego with dark skin, by famed La Catrina artist, José Guadalupe Posada. (Photo: Creative Commons)

On Dec. 11, however, his beloved uncle became seriously ill and was near death, causing Juan Diego to miss his appointment with the Virgin. So on Dec. 12, when he went in search of a priest to hear his uncle’s final confession, he avoided Tepeyac Hill, ashamed that he had missed his appointment. 

Nevertheless, the Virgin appeared, and when Juan Diego told her of his dying uncle, she responded, “Am I not here, I, who am your mother?” words that are engraved above the basilica’s entrance.

She told Juan Diego that his uncle was healed and instructed him to climb to the top of Tepeyac Hill, collect the flowers he’d find there — a miraculous sight in December — and bring them to the archbishop. He brought the roses he found to de Zumárraga, carrying them in his tilma, a traditional indigenous cloak. When he opened the tilma, it’s said the Virgin’s image revealed itself on the inside of the garment, which the archbishop immediately venerated. 

In addition, Juan Diego’s fully recovered uncle told his nephew that the Virgin had also appeared to him, telling him to inform the archbishop of his miraculous recovery and that she wished to be known as “de Guadalupe.”

By December 26, the tilma was placed in a hastily erected chapel on Tepeyac Hill, of which Juan Diego became the caretaker until his death. 

Virgin of Guadalupe
The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe said to have appeared on the cloak of Saint Juan Diego, an indigenous convert to Catholicism.

Pilgrimages to the small chapel began soon after it was built and have continued ever since. By 1709, crowds had so overwhelmed the site that a new shrine was built at the foot of Tepeyac Hill to house Juan Diego’s tilma for viewing, now located in the current basilica, built in 1976. The current basilica can hold 10,000. 

For the millions of pilgrims at the basilica Monday, festivities began at the stroke of midnight, with those gathered outside singing “Las Mañanitas” (Mexico’s traditional birthday song) to the Virgin. The faithful then crowd the basilica’s entrance to view the cloak inside and have objects blessed.

The area around the basilica is typically filled with vendors of all kinds — selling food as well as religious souvenirs. People come in religious costumes, and there is singing, dancing, prayer and performances of traditional indigenous dances.  

In 2002, Pope John Paul II traveled to Mexico to canonize Juan Diego as a Roman Catholic saint, the first indigenous to the Americas. Guadalupe has long been the patron saint of Mexico and was declared by the Church the Patroness of the Americas in 1945.

Juan Diego was also made a saint in 2002, the first saint indigenous to the Americas, with a feast day of Dec. 9. Pope John Paul II, who canonized him, traveled to Mexico for the ceremony.

Sheryl Losser is a former public relations executive and professional researcher.  She spent 45 years in national politics in the United States. She moved to Mazatlán last year and works part-time doing freelance research and writing.

Grupo Modelo hikes beer prices, citing inflation

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Corona, Pacífico, Modelo Especial and other brands owned by Grupo Modelo have increased in price.
Corona, Pacífico, Modelo Especial and other brands owned by Grupo Modelo have increased in price. (Mario Jasso / Cuartoscuro.com)

With more than 10 beer brands in the market, Grupo Modelo will raise its prices on Monday owing to inflation, the National Small Business Association (ANPEC) has announced.

Among the beers affected are labels like Corona, Modelo, Pacífico, Modelo Especial, Victoria, Negra Modelo, Montejo and León. Information about the new price tags was not available by the time this article was written.

With an average consumption of 55 to 68 liters per year, beer is one of the beverages most consumed by Mexicans. At the same time, it is one of the products inflation has hit the hardest.

According to the national statistics institute, INEGI, beer prices in México rose 11.7% in October — the beverage’s largest variation in prices in more than 12 years. While national inflation reached 8.5%, the INEGI data shows that the price of beer has increased at a faster rate than inflation in the last four months.

A few of the beers produced by Grupo Modelo in Mexico. (Grupo Modelo)

Globally, beer has also been affected by inflation. According to the Beer Index (carried out by investment firm eToro), the cost of beer production has increased 62% in the last two years. Prices of goods like water, malt, sugar, yeast and hops have skyrocketed along with prices of aluminum (to produce the beer cans) and gasoline (to transport the product). War in Ukraine and scarcity of glass to produce the bottles have also been major factors.

On that matter, ANPEC chief Cuauhtémoc Rivera anticipated that the rise in prices would continue throughout 2023 if the economy didn’t show signs of recovery. “Without being alarmist, but rather realistic, it is expected that inflation will not stop its course and continue to rise by 2023,” he said.

However, inflation has not diminished beer consumption in Mexico, which ranks No. 30 globally in terms of drink consumption. From January to August, beer production reached 94.5 billion liters, an increase of 4.8% compared to the same period in 2021.

Karla Siqueiros, general director of Cerveceros de México (Brewers of Mexico) announced that although the industry has registered a positive trend, it hasn’t yet recovered from the pandemic effects. The organization acknowledges the possibility of a slowdown next year. However, projected purchases  and the state of the beer production chain going into 2023 present a promising outlook.

“The behavior of this industry goes hand in hand with economic and consumer performance. A complex environment could have implications for the sector, but we believe in its benefits with a highly integrated production chain. Even superior to other manufacturers,” director of economic studies of Cerveceros de México, Manuel Cedillo, said.

According to the organization, the beer industry in Mexico impacts more than 168 productive activities in the three different economic sectors. It generates more than 700,000 jobs and supports more than 5,000 malt farmers.

Overall, the beer industry contributes to 1.5% of the national GDP.

Heineken, the second largest brewery in the world, also announced it will increase its prices next year to offset the rising costs of raw materials and energy, particularly in Europe. The company said the rise would respond to the local market conditions.

With reports from El Universal, El Financiero and Infobae

Ticketmaster fined for Bad Bunny ticket fiasco in Mexico City

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Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny at an April press event in New York City.
Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny at an April press event in New York City. (Depositphotos)

Ticketmaster faces a large fine for overselling tickets to Bad Bunny’s Mexico City concert on Friday, which led to dangerous crushes and numerous legitimate ticket holders being denied entry.

Ricardo Sheffield, the head of Mexico’s consumer protection agency (Profeco), announced that Ticketmaster would be fined “up to 10% of their sales for all of last year” for the fiasco. In addition, they must reimburse affected fans 100% of the ticket price plus 20% extra in compensation.

Speaking on Radio Formula, Sheffield emphasized that Ticketmaster had knowingly oversold tickets to the concert and then attempted to cover up by claiming the excess tickets were falsified.

“Ticketmaster said they [the tickets] were fake, but they were all issued by them. It’s a very elegant way to oversell,” he said.

The consumer protection agency Profeco invited those negatively affected by the ticketing problems to join a collective action against the business, via Twitter. 

The oversale caused chaotic scenes at Mexico City’s 85,000-capacity Azteca Stadium on Friday, with severe overcrowding and repeated failures of the ticketing system at the entrances to a sold-out concert by Puerto Rican rapper Bad Bunny.

The stadium was forced to turn away hundreds of ticket holders and call on the support of private security personnel and the capital police to ensure the safety of attendees.

Media outlets reported fury among disappointed fans, some of whom had paid as much as 9,000 pesos (US $450), traveled across the country and queued since the previous day to see the artist.

Immediately following the incident, a statement by Azteca Stadium declared: “Elements of Ticketmaster detected cases of duplication and/or falsification of tickets for tonight’s concert, a situation that is totally alien to the Azteca Stadium. Affected persons are encouraged to lodge their complaints directly with the Ticketmaster service.”

On Saturday, Ticketmaster released a statement via Twitter apologizing to fans and reiterating the falsification claim.

“The problems at the entrances were due to the presentation of an unprecedented number of fake tickets, which caused unusual overcrowding and intermittent operation of our system,” the company stated. “This caused confusion and complicated entry to the stadium, with the regrettable consequence that some legitimate tickets were denied entry.”

Profeco’s rejection of the falsification claim will likely compound existing legal woes for Ticketmaster. During his Radio Formula interview, Sheffield revealed that Profeco has received previous complaints about Ticketmaster’s practices and has been preparing a class-action lawsuit against the company since earlier this month.

The fines and investigations add to the legal woes Ticketmaster is already dealing with in the United States. The company faces investigations by multiple U.S. state attorney generals and a lawsuit from angry fans, after shutting down the presale of tickets for Taylor Swift’s “Eras” tour last month in the face of unprecedented demand.

With reports from Reforma, Forbes and Washington Post

Kitchen blunders: when good recipes go bad

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We’ve all had this happen: you follow a recipe exactly and then it doesn’t taste anything like it’s supposed to.

Last night I made the worst dessert of my life.

I’d been obsessing on this particular recipe — Vanilla Pudding Cakes — from King Arthur Baking for a few weeks now, re-reading the downloaded recipe and looking at the photo over and over. Finally, yesterday, I decided it was time.

I got out all the ingredients. I used my kitchen scale to weigh them. I followed that recipe to the “T,” and the finished result was a pan of vanilla glop. NOTHING like the photo.

As the bake time went on and on and the cake was not “… golden brown, with some bubbles from the pudding around the edges,” I read the recipe again. I went back to the computer to see if I’d somehow miscopied it. (No.) I checked the oven temperature on the internal thermometer. All was as it should be.

Vanilla Pudding Cake
We’ve all had this happen: you follow a recipe exactly and then it doesn’t taste anything like it’s supposed to.

I tried to stay optimistic, thinking that maybe by some miracle it would pull itself together into something vaguely edible, but that was not the case. Sigh.

I still don’t know where I went wrong; the only thing I can think of is that maybe I should have sifted the flour before measuring it. I went back to the website to look at the 32 comments by other home bakers, and no one had this problem; instead, most people wrote things like “Excellent and deceptively easy recipe;” “Skipped dinner and ate the whole thing;” “Can’t wait to make it again.”

What happened? I may never know. But something — or several things — definitely went awry.

Now, I need to say I pride myself on being a fairly good cook, and while I can throw things together with flair that usually come out OK, I enjoy more following a recipe from an expert and making a dish that’s over-the-top wonderful.

When I have friends to dinner or bring a dish to a potluck, I want eye appeal as well as taste; I want to make something memorable and figure if I follow a recipe to bake, then doing the same for a Russian Salmon Pie, candied pecans or authentic achiote ranchero sauce can only be a positive thing.

So, to follow a recipe from a reputable source and have this happen? I’m still crushed and confused.

Still thinking there’s no need to break spaghetti before you cook it? Oops! Think again.

Another recent kitchen calamity at my house began the same way: a recipe from a trusted source (in this case, the subscription-based New York Times Cooking) for Vegetarian Bolognese, made with cauliflower instead of beef. Hmm, I thought, heart-healthy, meatless, comfort food — I must make this!

I splurged and bought the correct shape of imported pasta and a can of San Marzano tomatoes and used my Lodge Dutch oven for added authenticity. I imagined how amazing it would taste and who I would invite over for a Sunday dinner in homage to my Italian roots.

Sadly, this was not to be.

After hours and hours of prep and cooking, I finally allowed myself a taste. To say I was anticipating fabulousness would be an understatement. Well.

This “Vegetarian Bolognese” just tasted like cauliflower cooked in a sweet tomato sauce, otherwise known as a vegetable stew. Desperate to salvage it somehow, I googled other traditional recipes for Bolognese sauce and added some red wine, but alas… still cauliflower stew.

Maybe, I thought, if it sits overnight, the flavors will blend and it will taste more like what it’s supposed to be?

Ever the optimist, I approached the pot the following day with high hopes that were immediately dashed. A friend who’d stopped by also tasted it and tried to say something nice. I forced myself to have it that night for dinner, on the pasta I’d specially bought. Let’s just say that even covered with really good Parmesan it still tasted like… cauliflower stew.

The pot sat in the fridge for two more days, and then I was done. No point in pretending, I thought; tonight is garbage night, and out it goes. (Please know I don’t make a habit of throwing away food.)

Why am I writing this, you may be wondering? Because I want you to know I’m not perfect either. I burn things (cookies, milk, bran muffins, lentil soup), forget ingredients (water, garlic, salt), use old ingredients that don’t work (baking powder and soda), cook things too long (salmon, tuna, quick breads) or not long enough (salmon, tuna, quick breads, LOL). I make mistakes I can’t figure out (see above) and vow I’ll never cook again.

Then I come across an intriguing recipe — most recently the Cornflake Macaroons in my column from two weeks ago — watch another episode of “The Great British Bake Off” or am captivated by something on a menu and get inspired all over again. (Or I just get hungry!)

And that’s the glory of cooking; it’s a never-ending process, a game, if you will, that never ends. And whether you win or lose, it’s always a good time.

If you’re lucky, you get something delicious to eat out of it; but even if everything goes awry — like my Vanilla Pudding Cake Glop — you’ve got a funny story to tell.

Janet Blaser is the author of the best-selling book, Why We Left: An Anthology of American Women Expatsfeatured on CNBC and MarketWatch. She has lived in Mexico since 2006. You can find her on Facebook.

Mexican workers will soon see a minimum wage hike. Will it help?

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Uber and Rappi delivery drivers in Mexico City
Workers for various internet-based delivery services wait outside a Mexico City restaurant to pick up their deliveries.

The minimum wage is going up! Finally, a bit of good news on the economic front.

The fact that it’s been raised so many times over the past few years is a credit to the president, who has made increases a major priority during his time in office. (Contrary to popular belief, I’m not anti-AMLO… I just believe in doling out credit and criticism when it’s warranted and the stakes are high.)

Anyway! In most of the country, it’s rising to 207.44 pesos (US $10.80) per day, and 312.41 pesos (US $16.30) per day in the Northern Border Free Zone — made up of 43 municipalities on the Mexico-U.S. border. These changes will take effect January 1.

But while this helps the country’s overall outlook, many workers will still be quite far from out of the woods when it comes to their expenses.

While the above salaries amount to 6,223 pesos (US $315.93) and 9,372 pesos (US $475.93) pesos a month respectively, Mexico’s canasta básica — a list of items that at its most basic level includes foodstuffs for one person for a month and at a more complete level includes things like transportation and education costs — has risen to over 11,000 pesos for a family of four, well above even the new minimums.

Minimum wages and salaries, of course, are what you will find in the formal sector for official employees. In the informal sector, anything and everything goes. As they say, beggars can’t be choosers, and there simply aren’t enough well-enough paid formal jobs to go around.

While some cities are known for their strong middle-class workforce, where I live, workers will put up with just about anything to hold onto a job, including waiting months for a paycheck or working only for tips.

The size of the informal economy in Mexico as a whole is 50% on a national level, closer to 30% in the more economically prosperous north, but closer to 70% in the poorer south. Some people in the informal economy work for others and are paid in cash, while others work on their own, selling what they can in goods and services as they try to make ends meet.

But even in the “formal” sector, companies are increasingly opting to hire workers as contractors in order to avoid giving them expensive benefits, such as allowing them to accrue seniority, and, yes, to avoid having to stay within the confines of minimum-wage rules.

Both in Mexico and in the United States, this is supposed to mean that contractors can typically demand higher pay than their employee counterparts. The reality, of course, is that the pay is often similar or lower, with the added circumstance of having little stability or predictability to their monthly incomes.

As a contractor at a variety of places myself, I’m feeling the pain too: work has been scarce these past couple of months, and I’m becoming increasingly nervous about how I’ll meet my own expenses.

When a patchwork of small jobs, many unpredictable, has people chronically underemployed, getting ahead becomes much more a matter of luck than of hard work. I might be nervous now, but I’m still doing comparatively great compared to most people out there!

So, how exactly are most people getting by?

Well, some people simply aren’t. Many are doing without a lot of things, as they always have, and the opportunities and financial resources for them and their descendants to pull themselves out of poverty (43.9% of the population in 2020) are very close to null.

The scandal of not just Mexico but of the world is this: you can work hard and you can work full-time hours and still not make enough money for you and your family to get by because you simply can’t force someone to pay you more than they’re willing to. Throw any kind of wrench (like an illness) into the works of a precarious, barely-getting-by lifestyle, and that’s it.

Luckily, there are some built-in safety nets forming the fabric of Mexico’s culture that can serve as a light padding on the concrete floor.

One of those safety nets is family: for the most part, families stick together and help each other out. It’s not all about benevolence, of course: people just tend to live better in groups, and family members tend to feel responsible for each other.

As you can probably tell, I’m being careful about our tendency to overromanticize the institution of the family. Yes, they’ll probably make sure you stay sheltered and not go hungry. But if you’re unlucky enough to be from an abusive family (or stuck in an abusive marriage) and lack the resources and opportunities to make it on your own, you’re very likely stuck with them if there are few avenues to make it on your own in a depressed economy.

Another major safety net is remittances, which are currently, and unsurprisingly, at record levels. If it weren’t for those payments sent here by Mexicans living abroad (mainly the U.S.), a lot of families in Mexico would be a lot worse off. It’s one of the many ways that the U.S. and Mexican economies are inexorably linked.

Some of that remittance money coming into Mexico is meant to pay off debt, but much of it is used to keep family members here afloat.

News this week of companies looking to “nearshore” by moving their operations to Mexico is welcome. But as I read through the articles, there’s no indication of how much workers will be paid, and it’s hard to be optimistic: it’s no secret that a big part of Mexico’s attraction as a hub for manufacturing is the potential to save so much in labor costs on workers used to accepting much less than their counterparts in the U.S.

What would happen if the minimum wage were raised to be enough to afford the complete canasta básica for a family of four? For informal workers, it probably wouldn’t mean much given that labor laws have trouble touching the informal economy anyway, but what difference would it make to formal employees?

Yes, it might increase inflation, though I’ve always suspected that inflation is often just as much due to those who already receive the majority of a company’s profits protecting and increasing their own salaries above all else — and raising costs for everyone else in order to do so. Taking a pay cut for the greater good hasn’t been in fashion for a very long time.

Still, let’s accept and cheer on small, incremental steps and work hard for bigger, more dramatic ones that allow everyone, not just the financially comfortable, to reach their potentials.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sdevrieswritingandtranslating.com

Guadalupe’s pilgrims an annual logistical challenge for the capital

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Our Lady of Guadalupe pilgrim completing a manda, a promise to walk on her knees to the Virgin's shrine in Mexico City
Guadalupe pilgrim completing a manda, or promise, to the Virgin to make the approach to the basilica on her knees. Family members place cardboard to help ease her suffering.(Photo: Thayne Tuason/Creative Commons)

The pilgrims’ focus is a small hill on the northern edge of Mexico City called Tepeyac. Once a year, millions of them travel from all over Mexico (and other countries) to thank Our Lady of Guadalupe for favors granted, to ask for a miracle, or simply to pay homage to the dark-skinned version of the Virgin Mary in her home, the Guadalupe Basilica.

Originally dedicated to Mesoamerican mother goddess Tonantzin, this site is consecrated by the Catholic Church to the Guadalupe Virgin, the patron saint of Mexico, who’s said to have appeared there in 1531.

Her importance to millions here cannot be overstated: even not-particularly-devout Mexicans are guadalupanos

Our Lady of Guadalupe is said to have appeared to an indigenous convert named Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin in 1531 — 10 years after the fall of Tenochtitlan — as a conquered Mexico struggled to adapt to the new Spanish order. 

Virgin of Guadalupe
The Virgin of Guadalupe is a dark-skinned version of the Virgin Mary that the Catholic faithful believe appeared four times to an indigenous convert in Mexico City in 1531.

Over the centuries, the shrine at Tepeyac has brought colonial rulers,  the French-installed emperor Maximilian I and, twice in the 20th century, Pope John Paul II. 

The devout come to Tepeyac year-round, but the most special day to be here is Dec. 12th, the anniversary of her fourth and final appearance to Juan Diego — the appearance that finally convinced Church authorities to believe his story that the Virgin wanted a shrine built in her honor.

Starting weeks before the Dec. 12, groups of pilgrims arrive in the city. By the evening of the 11th, they are pouring into the basilica grounds and the blocks that surround the complex.

Their main destination is the new basilica, a modern church completed in 1976. By the 1950s, it was clear that the 18th-century church built on the exact spot of her appearance could no longer serve its purpose, as its foundations were sinking. The new basilica has been accepted because it houses Guadalupe’s most sacred relic, Juan Diego’s cloak, on which her image appears.

"The Miracle of the Roses" depicting miracle of Our Lady of Guadalupe's image appearing on St. Juan Diego's cloak
“The Miracle of the Roses,” depicting Juan Diego convincing Spanish religious authorities of the Virgin’s apparition by her image that appeared spontaneously inside his cloak.

According to city authorities, 10 million visitors came to pay homage in 2019. COVID-19 closed access for much of 2020, with no figures available. Limited visitation in 2021 brought 5.7 million.

But Mexico eased masking protocols this year, and the basilica’s rector Salvador Martínez Ávila issued a statement celebrating the “…happy and necessary return of great pilgrimages to sanctuaries…” with the expectation of record numbers

The vast majority of the faithful come in large groups of friends, family and neighbors, with certain protocols associated with the travel. Groups set out from their local parishes after a special mass and blessing.

Although people certainly arrive here by modern transport, the classic pilgrimage is done by walking at least part of the way. Making the journey so physical is a kind of sacrifice and purification.

Practicality, however, often requires modifications, such as using motor vehicles to carry supplies and belongings and to give rest to those who need it, but nevertheless, the vehicles travel at the walkers’ pace. 

This means that pilgrims can spend days or even weeks just getting to Mexico City. These traveling groups may look haphazard, but they have arranged their route with authorities far in advance and use rest stops and camping sites that see pilgrims every year. Locals offer food, drink and other support to pilgrims arriving at stops.

Crowds camped out in front of the Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica
Crowds, including campers, in front of the Basilica. (Photo: CDMX Civil Protection)

Vehicles and pedestrians are often decorated with banners, with images of the Virgin and even with announcements of who they are. This is not done only out of pride but to make sure motorists see them.

Road closures for the pilgrims in early December are not uncommon. 

Once in the city, the pilgrims begin a slow takeover of the blocks surrounding the basilica grounds and the main approaches to it — the Calzada de Guadalupe and the Calzada de los Misterios.

Much has been written about people who make the approach to the basilica on their knees. This is called a manda and done only by those who make a special promise to the Virgin. Those who do this are found on this road and on the basilica grounds. 

Mexican indigenous dancers performing at the shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City
Although the feast day is of Catholic origin, indigenous dancers at the Guadalupe basilica complex perform during celebration of the Virgin’s feast day. (Photo: John Oregon/Creative Commons)

By Dec. 12, despite chilly nighttime temperatures, many of the densely populated neighborhoods surrounding the basilica and the calzadas are filled with campers, dancers, vendors and worshippers. All vehicular traffic is shut down. 

The city’s Welcome Pilgrim program provides special public transportation and emergency medical treatment, and it makes arrangements for the inevitable mountains of trash. A large number of police are deployed because, unfortunately, the Basilica area is located in a dangerous part of the city.

Pilgrims like Reyna Esther Martínez of Morelos says that all the discomforts are forgotten once one enters the large basilica atrium. Here, she says, you are in the company of a throng of faithful who share the marvel of being in the presence of the Virgin, passing under the original cloak and “…feeling her eyes gaze down upon you.”

The excitement begins to build at nightfall on Dec. 11, with dancing and hymns. The celebrations officially begin at midnight, with the singing of “Las Mañanitas,” — Mexico’s birthday song — since it is Guadalupe’s “birthday.”

PIlgrim heading to Our Lady of Guadalupe Basilica
Pilgrim on the Calzada de Guadalupe avenue. Some make the trek on bicycle and even horseback. (Photo: Thayne Tuason/Creative Commons)

For the next 24 hours, there are nonstop masses, fireworks, dancing and more. Thousands pass through the basilica to get a glimpse of the cloak, with an electric sidewalk installed underneath it to prevent backlogs.

Other highlights include a 2 a.m. mass for concheros (people who recreate a Mexica dance) and one at noon dedicated to the roses said to have fallen from Juan Diego’s cloak when he revealed Guadalupe’s image. The crowds stay throughout the day, only beginning to thin out as the 12th comes to an end. 

It may be difficult for a nonbeliever to understand why people go to such lengths to participate, but to clarify, one young pilgrim says, “You have to understand. She is our Mother. In Mexico, our mother means everything.” 

Leigh Thelmadatter arrived in Mexico 18 years ago and fell in love with the land and the culture in particular its handcrafts and art. She is the author of Mexican Cartonería: Paper, Paste and Fiesta (Schiffer 2019). Her culture column appears regularly on Mexico News Daily.

Jalisco: a showcase for Mexico’s wide biodiversity

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Baby crocs at El Cocodrilario de La Manzanilla in Jalisco, Mexico
Baby crocs at El Cocodrilario de La Manzanilla in Jalisco, where you'll find yourself inside a tropical deciduous forest ecosystem.

In their book, “Geo-Mexico,” geographers Richard Rhoda and Tony Burton divide Mexico into five major land-based ecosystems, which for the sake of brevity I will call: deserts, high forests, grasslands, tropical evergreen forests and tropical deciduous forests.

Curiously, all of these ecosystems converge within the borders of the weirdly shaped state of Jalisco.

Because the state capital of Guadalajara is located almost in the center, highways radiate from it like the spokes of a wheel, offering visitors relatively easy access to portions of all these ecosystems.

Below follows a guide to where to find examples of these five systems:  

Map of ecosystems in Jalisco, Mexico
All five of Mexico’s ecosystems converge within the boundaries of the state of Jalisco.

1. Grasslands

A drive only 90 minutes northeast of Guadalajara will take you straight into the heart of Los Altos de Jalisco, a long swathe of flat grasslands, or plains, with relatively few trees. Here, you may find chicken farms and great fields of chía, the Aztec superfood that the modern world is just recently rediscovering.

To acquaint yourself with the biodiversity of these grasslands, I suggest a visit to the Pyramid of Pegueros, which probably dates back to between A.D. 400 and 800. This is a monumental structure atop a low hill that the locals call El Chiquihuitillo, the Upside-Down Wicker Basket.

In a prairie, the only material available for building up a pyramid is dirt, and here it took 75,000 cubic meters of it to do the trick.

You’ll park your car about 500 meters from the pyramid. The short walk from the parking area will give you an introduction to the flora and fauna of this ecosystem.

Pyramid of Pegueros in Jalisco, Mexico
The Pyramid of Pegueros is located within Jalisco’s grassland and prairie ecosystems.

All around the pyramid, you’ll probably find cows eating the grass, as well as nopales (prickly-pear cactus) and the medicinal plant cardo santo (St. Benedict’s thistle)

But what’s a prairie without jimsonweed?

This poisonous plant, known to Mexicans as toloache and to scientists as Datura stramonium, is said to be used as a love potion here in Mexico. (It’s also famous as a drug that produces temporary insanity — could there possibly be a connection?) 

Mexican violetear hummingbird in Jalisco, Mexico
The Mexican violetear is a hummingbird that prefers altitudes of 1,200 to 2,300 meters and especially likes cloud forests. (Photo: Jerry Oldenettel)

2. Tropical Evergreen Forests

Head south from Guadalajara for 180 km and you will find yourself in the Tropical Evergreen Forest ecosystem.

You can get to know this environment while visiting the very impressive landmark, what I call the “Petroglyph Bulletin Board of El Altitle,” a giant wall of pure marble covered with pre-Hispanic rock engravings. 

Mexican cuastecomate gourd
Tropical evergreen forests are the place to look for the cuastecomate gourd. Its seeds have a sweet, licorice-like taste.

Here, you might want to spend the night camped at the hot springs, only 3 kilometers away, where you can soak inside a completely natural hot pool.

As you walk from the petroglyphs to the pool, you will see mango trees everywhere. Here you will also see tamarind trees and the curious cuastecomate, whose softball-sized fruits grow directly on the tree trunk.

And now, jump into the hot pool, and forget all your troubles!

3. High Forests

If you head west out of Guadalajara, you will run smack into Bosque La Primavera, an excellent example of Mexico’s high temperate forest ecosystem, dominated by pine and oak trees.

Here, because of thermal activity deep beneath the surface, a hike over a bed of pine needles may bring you to a literally steaming waterfall along the Rio Caliente, a hot river truly deserving of the name.

 

egg-cone pine (Pinus oocarpa) in Jalisco, Mexico
The egg-cone pine (Pinus oocarpa) is said to be the ancestor of almost all of Mexico’s 48 species of pine trees.

In this ecosystem, you will easily recognize the egg-cone pine (Pinus oocarpa). As the name suggests, its cones are small and egg-shaped.

Note that this tree is thought to be the great-grandma of almost all the pines in the country, which is saying a lot since Mexico holds the record for more species of pine than any other country.

In the Primavera Forest, you will find 59 kinds of mammals (from voles to pumas), 200 species of birds and 742 species of plants.

ringtail cat (cacomixtle) in Primavera Forest of Jalisco, Mexico
The ringtail cat (cacomixtle) is not a cat but a member of the raccoon family. Look for it in Jalisco’s Primavera Forest. (Photo: Jesús Moreno)

4. Deserts

Just west of Lake Chapala, there’s a high hill; on the other side of it, only 12 kilometers from the lake, you’ll find yourself in the midst of salt flats and arid scrub land. Welcome to San Marcos “Lagoon” — and good luck finding any water in it!

The exoskeleton of a cicada on the shore of San Marcos Lagoon in Jalisco, Mexico
The exoskeleton of a cicada on the shore of the completely dry San Marcos Lagoon.

What you may find, however, is a little plant called seepweed, which loves salty soil. In Spanish, these weeds are known as romeritos, which you may have seen if your Mexican neighbors have ever invited you over for Christmas dinner. It’s often prepared with mole sauce.

Another culinary delight that grows in this ecosystem is the red, juicy pitaya, also known as pitahaya in Spanish. Come here in May or June, and you can pick pitayas yourself — with the help of a long pole — from the tops of the tall pitayo (Stenocereus queretaroensis) cactus.

While you’re exploring this ecosystem, you may want to take a ride in a trike or delta wing  at Kordich Air Sports which is headquartered here: you will never forget the salt flats once you’ve seen them from the air!

Lesser roadrunner
Roadrunners are a frequent sight in Jalisco’s desert and arid scrubland ecosystem. No sign of Wile E. Coyote, though. (Photo: Francesco Veronesi)

5. Tropical Deciduous Forests

Exploring this ecosystem is super easy thanks to the townspeople and biologists at El Cocodrilario de La Manzanilla, a 264-hectare crocodile sanctuary declared a RAMSAR site in 2008. 

Here you will find a long boardwalk that takes you on a 650-meter loop through both mangroves and open water, giving you an excellent opportunity to meet the local flora and fauna, and even hold a baby croc in your arms.

If you have the time, take a twilight boat ride through the mangroves. By the time it’s all over, you will have met quite a few of the approximately 80 species of birds frequently seen here.

The map of Mexico’s five ecosystems is useful but also deceptive. At any given point, there could be a volcano or a deep canyon, in which case you may discover many more ecosystems every 100 meters as you go upward or downward. 

Primavera Forest in Jalisco, Mexico
Visitors stop for a selfie at the steaming hot Emerald Falls, deep inside the Primavera Forest.

So wherever you visit Jalisco, prepare to be surprised. Escape from the city whenever you can, and enjoy the biodiversity!

The writer has lived near Guadalajara, Jalisco, since 1985. His most recent book is Outdoors in Western Mexico, Volume Three. More of his writing can be found on his blog.

 

natural pools near the Altilte petroglyphs in Jalisco, Mexico
The natural pools near the Altilte petroglyphs are a perfect place for camping.

 

Kordich Air Sports
The best view of the salt flats west of Lake Chapala is from a trike or hang glider. (Photo Kordich Air Sports)

 

Jimsonweed in Jalisco, Mexico
Jimsonweed (toloache in Mexican Spanish) is a poisonous plant used for making love potions.

 

Pitayos in Jalisco, Mexico
Glowing pitayos (Stenocereus queretaroensis) abound around the salt flats of San Marcos, Jalisco.

Morena defector Lilly Téllez makes the case for her presidential candidacy

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PAN senator (and Morena defector) Lilly Téllez speaks to journalists from her home in October.
The PAN senator (and Morena defector) Lilly Téllez speaks to journalists from her home in October. (Twitter @LillyTellez)

Unlike several Latin American countries including Argentina, Chile and Brazil, Mexico has never had a female president.

But that could soon change as Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum is seen as a leading contender to secure the ruling Morena party’s nomination for the 2024 presidential election, and polls suggest she would be very hard to beat.

But Sheinbaum isn’t the only woman with her eyes on Mexico’s top job. Senator Beatriz Paredes Rangel and Senator Claudia Ruiz Massieu Salinas, both of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI), as well as Senator Lilly Téllez García of the National Action Party (PAN) have all indicated they will seek endorsement to contest the 2024 election as an opposition candidate.

The newspaper El País recently spoke with Téllez about her presidential ambitions during an interview at the home of the 55-year-old former journalist.

The senator — who was elected to the upper house as a Morena candidate at the 2018 election — asserted that she would be the best choice to face off against the ruling party’s candidate, describing herself as a “born leader” who knows how to be a faithful representative of the Mexican people.

“In our country there is great contempt for the political class because it has been very corrupt,” she told El País.

“I can no longer say that [because] I’m fully involved in politics and I’m going to seek the presidency. I’m an outsider, a new arrival [to politics], but I’m not worth less because of that. On the contrary, it’s a [positive] quality to come from outside,” Téllez said.

The Sonora native, a state she now represents in the Senate, claimed she is “the most competitive” option as a presidential candidate for the opposition, whose three main parties — the PAN, the PRI and the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD) — are in an electoral alliance called Va por México and will likely field a common candidate at the 2024 election.

“It’s about winning and the candidate must be the most competitive [person], the one that can beat Morena. I’m the most competitive [among the possible candidates]. … I haven’t yet started a campaign but I’m already the most competitive,” Téllez said.

Enrique de la Madrid
A poll by the newspaper El Financiero rated Enrique de la Madrid, son of a former president, as the most competitve opposition candidate for president. (Flickr / Presidencia)

In fact, an El Financiero newspaper poll whose results were published late last month found that former tourism minister Enrique de la Madrid — son of former president Miguel de la Madrid — was seen as the strongest PAN/PRI/PRD candidate by the highest percentage of respondents, although Téllez ranked a close second. The poll also found that the senator ranked behind Monterrey Mayor Luis Donaldo Colosio Riojas — son of murdered 1994 PRI presidential candidate Luis Donaldo Colosio Murrieta — and de la Madrid in terms of the percentage of respondents who have favorable opinions of those potential opposition candidates.

Probed by El País as to why she sees herself as the most competitive option for the opposition, Téllez responded:

“Because I just entered politics and I wear my [Mexican] citizenship as a badge of honor and I’m a journalist and I’ve spent my whole life denouncing government corruption, injustice and organized crime.”

She also said she’s a woman of her word and that she is already planning the policies she will put forward as a presidential candidate.

“I’m putting together proposals with a team in order to develop a national project, obviously based on the most important things for Mexicans: rule of law, [a good] health system, education, prosperity,” Téllez said.

Asked whether she had any concrete proposals to combat corruption and crime, she responded that she wouldn’t “make an impunity pact with corrupt politicians or organized crime, like López Obrador did.”

Earlier this year, the president rejected claims that he has links to organized crime, asserting that his government — unlike its predecessors — doesn’t allow officials to collude with criminals.

Elaborating on what a Téllez presidency would look like, the senator took another shot at López Obrador, saying that under her leadership public money “won’t go on a whim to grandiose projects” — such as the Maya Train railroad — “but to the health system,” which struggled to cope under immense pressure during earlier stages of the coronavirus pandemic.

“I’m looking for, and I already have, excellent professionals that will design how [to go about governing]. Because of my journalistic training that’s how I work — consulting experts, that’s what I’ll do as president of this country. In the team I’ve put together, there are experts in public policy, security and every field,” she said.

Asked whether she would make López Obrador a focus of her campaign even though he cannot stand for reelection, Téllez responded that the president is in fact a central player in the 2024 presidential election.

“Who’s playing at this upcoming election is López Obrador, only he’s playing through Claudia Sheinbaum, the submissive Juanita,” she said.

“López Obrador knows that Sheinbaum as a candidate is terrible so he’s campaigning for her. The message is: ‘re-elect me through Claudia Sheinbaum,’ he’s just using her as a puppet,” Téllez said.

Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum and President López Obrador
Téllez wasn’t the first politician to go after Mexico City Mayor Claudia Sheinbaum for her closeness to the president. (Presidencia de la República)

She added that opposition forces need to unite in a “great coalition” to defeat Morena, and expressed “enormous confidence” in her ability to win the presidential election.

Téllez said she respects Paredes and Ruiz, the PRI senators who are eyeing a presidential run, but charged that their political pasts would be a burden rather than a benefit in an election campaign and at polling stations.

“I wasn’t part of the governments that led Mexico to a situation that was so bad that it created a favorable situation for the arrival of López Obrador,” she said.

“I don’t have skeletons in my closet and I haven’t embezzled a cent in my life,” Téllez said.

Asked about her defection to PAN from Morena and what kind of confidence that gives citizens, the presidential aspirant said:

“I believed in López Obrador, I was one of those who fell for the deceit of the campaign he conducted to show himself as a moderate. I gave him the benefit of the doubt, as millions did. What a disappointment, what a tragedy.”

Téllez added that the thing that finally made her take the decision to leave Morena was López Obrador shaking hands with the mother of convicted drug traficker Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán in the early days of the coronavirus pandemic in 2020.

“I left when López Obrador said hello to the mom of El Chapo Guzmán,” she said.

While she started her political career with the leftist Morena party, Téllez declared that she’s “on the right” of the political spectrum, “but not the far right — making that clear is very important.”

“… I’m on the right toward the center. I believe in freedom, and the state … should be as small as possible — an extremely small and efficient state that guarantees security first and foremost,” she said.

Téllez also offered a summary of her political influences. “I’m going to sound very strange, but since I was a young lady Abraham Lincoln inspired me a lot, I started reading Lincoln biographies at about 16 years of age,” she said.

The senator also cited Winston Churchill, Bertrand Russell and Marie Curie as people she admires, the latter because she never used the kind of “feminist victimhood discourse” that is currently “in fashion.”

Lilly Téllez was first elected on the Morena ticket in 2018.
Lilly Téllez was first elected on the Morena ticket in 2018. (Gaceta)

“The life of Hernán Cortés inspires me a lot,” added Téllez, referring to the Spanish conquistador that led the overthrow of the Aztec Empire, or Triple Alliance, in the early 1520s. “The spirit and heart of Hernán Cortés [inspires me].”

Probed as to how she could admire Cortés given the abuses he carried out in Mexico, Téllez said he didn’t do anything that the Spanish and other people haven’t suffered themselves in the past.

“I’m not afraid of things, I understand them on a human level,” she added.” I also like [Justin] Trudeau in Canada, Margaret Thatcher, I don’t agree with [Emmanuel] Macron on many things, but I like his consistency,” she said, before expressing her profound admiration of Manuel Clouthier, the PAN’s candidate at the 1988 presidential election.

Whether Téllez gets the opportunity to be the opposition’s flag bearer for the 2024 presidential election will ultimately come down to a selection process that hasn’t yet been defined.

“I hope it’s a method that selects the most competitive [candidate] and [the candidate is not [decided] by one’s political background and illogical considerations,” she said.

The senator can expect to face a packed field of potential opposition candidates, as numerous other political figures — as well as a few people from outside politics — have declared their intent to seek the presidency or have been touted as possible aspirants.

López Obrador said in October that a total of 43 people have either expressed interest in vying for the presidency or have been mentioned as potential contenders, a figure that included three possible candidates for Citizens Movement, a party that has ruled out joining the PAN/PRI/PRD alliance.

With reports from El País and El Financiero 

UNAM announces Mexico’s first national school of forensic science

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A forensic worker cordons off the scene of a double homicide in Morelos, in December 2021.
A forensic worker cordons off the scene of a double homicide in Morelos, in December 2021. (Margarito Pérez Retana)

Mexico’s National Autonomous University (UNAM) has approved the creation of the country’s first school of forensic science, stating that it will be a leader in advancing the field in Mexico and contribute to the delivery of justice with more robust scientific evidence.

In a statement, the UNAM explained that the National School of Forensic Sciences (ENaCiF) would strengthen the identity of its existing bachelor’s degree in forensic sciences, currently run by the Faculty of Medicine, and provide more pathways for students to enter the field.

The existing undergraduate program is currently on its seventh generation of students, of whom 92 have already graduated. They have gone on to work for a wide range of bodies in the fields of justice and human rights, including the National Commission for Missing People, the Executive Commission for Attention to Victims and the Attorney General’s Office, among others.

Alongside transferring this undergraduate program to the ENaCiF, the UNAM outlined a nine-year plan to strengthen the teaching of forensic science. This will start by doubling enrollment on the Bachelor of Forensic Sciences program and launching a job placement program to help graduates enter the field. It will also create a postgraduate program to certify forensic professionals, with a variety of remote and hybrid learning options to give greater flexibility.

Over the long term, the new school will allow students to specialize in one of three career paths. These are yet to be defined, but could include Human Identification, Public Security and Criminal Policy, and Forensic Audit. The ENaCiF will also promote collaboration with social, legal, scientific and political institutions around the country, fostering a multidisciplinary approach to forensic investigations.

In its statement, the UNAM emphasized that forensic science has become indispensable to the administration of justice and assured that the ENaCiF would help meet the growth in demand for forensic investigation professionals in Mexico.

A year ago, the federal government admitted that Mexico faced a “forensic crisis,” with an estimated 52,000 unidentified bodies in common graves and morgues and more than 95,000 missing people. The authorities’ lack of capacity to investigate the epidemic of deaths and disappearances related to organized crime has meant much of the burden falls on victims’ families, search groups and non-governmental organizations.

A report by Fundar, released last week, found that a lack of budget transparency and funding for forensic activities, particularly at state level, is a leading factor behind the forensic crisis in Mexico. However, it also highlighted a lack of trained of personnel — an issue that the UNAM’s new education program will seek to address.

With reports from Reporte Indigo and Publimetro

OAX Original wants to show you how diverse mezcal can be

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OAX Original limited edition mezcals
OAX Original's limited edition mezcals are made from wild agave varieties grown in Oaxaca. They are made in batches of only 1,000. (Photo: Celeste Martearena for OAX Original)

OAX Original started out the way many great projects do, with a few friends bonding over a shared passion. In this case, it was mezcal and those friends were four artists and designers living in New York, each with their own personal connection to Mexican arts and architecture.

They wanted to create a mezcal brand that would not only showcase Oaxaca’s extensive diversity but also make tasting it a one-of-a-kind experience, from the moment your hand touches the bottle to the first sip landing on your tongue.

“Mezcal is incredible and has a lot to offer culturally in terms of the traditions and how it’s made,” says Laura Giraudo, founder of Bardo Industries and one of the project’s partners.

Her newfound passion for mezcal inspired her to become a sommelier.

Laura Giraudo of OAX Original mezcal distillery
Laura Giraudo says she has found her introduction to fine mezcal a “mind-opening experience.” (Photo: Laura Giraudo)

“It’s been mind-opening for me in many ways, for my palate particularly.”

The OAX Original brand started with three types of agave – arroqueño, tobalá and tepeztate — producing 1,000 bottles of each at the launch. They quickly sold out. 

The brand is now on its third production round, each time working alongside mezcal master Enrique Hernández Zenea, whose family has lived four generations in Oaxaca. 

All their mezcals are made with single-origin wild agave that Hernández is harvesting sustainably, employing local community members. 

“Mezcal, especially wild agave, has an incredible complexity, comparable to incredible wine, with different qualities in the flavor that continue to be expressed at different moments during the drinking of it,” Giraudo said. “Mezcal has this depth that I think people in the United States are just beginning to understand.

“Here, the culture of tequila is strong and people are very accustomed to shots, but to say, ‘Hey wait. This is a product to sip and enjoy, almost like a good whiskey,’ — that is opening up an interesting path for mezcal.”

Agave hearts vats at OAX Original mezcal distillery in Oaxaca.
Artisanal mezcal uses production traditions that date back centuries. Agave hearts are first cooked for days then placed in these large wooden vats to ferment before the liquid is distilled. (Photo: courtesy of OAX Original)

There are, of course, repercussions to mezcal’s popularity, she explains. “Producers can finally charge more for their product; they can finally start to produce more; they can build better distilleries, some of whom right now are really interesting.”

But, she notes, as the world consumes more and more of the alcoholic beverage, if nothing is done, “one day [the agave] will be gone.”

“So, one of the things we wanted to do was to reforest and plant an endemic agave for every bottle sold,” she said.

This year, the team started planting tobalá agave on Hernández’s land. If any of the agaves they use for the production start to be endangered, they will immediately cease production with those varieties, Giraudo said. 

But there’s more to love about this brand besides their ecological commitment: there are also OAX Original’s beautifully tactile bottles, an homage to Mexican architecture. 

Casa Luis Barragan
The former home and studio of Mexican architect Luis Barragán in Mexico City. (Photo: Government of Jalisco)

“The Spanish arrived in Mexico and tried to eradicate the culture and build on top of what was [there] and then realized that it wasn’t going to work because the culture was so strong,” she said. “So this new wave of architecture in the 20th century — [Luis] Barragán, [Frida] Escobedo, Mauricio Rojas — developed their own style, and it’s something that really inspired us because it’s very particular and unique.”

The surface of the pink, white and black bottles is rough, like earth or sand, with a triangle-shaped ribbed top third of the bottle and a rounded bottom two-thirds. Running your fingers along the top is reminiscent of the ribbed, stone washbasins found in older Mexican homes. The angles bring to mind the staircases and interior spaces of Casa Luis Barragán, the former home and studio of the architect in Mexico City.

The innovative design is turning heads and has received mentions in the publications Wallpaper*, Design Milk and Print Magazine.

OAX Original limited edition mezcals
“Mezcal has this depth that I think people in the United States are just beginning to understand,” says Giraudo. (Photo: Sam Ortiz for OAX Original)

“[It’s] the mix of something old, something new and something architectural at the same time,” Giraudo said. “There are tons of buildings in Mexico that are a little monochromatic, with different surfaces, where the light and the shadow are always at play, depending on the day, and that’s an idea we liked a lot because it’s also related somewhat to mezcal — a seasonal product where there is a period of intense sun, then one of intense rain, moments of the day when the sun burns the young agaves. And then at night, it’s suddenly cool. That duality, it comes from there.”

The tobalá I tried, at 48% ABV, is expertly crafted and floral, with a hint of fresh grass and mint. The sweetness of caramelized agave hearts used to make it shine through more than the smokiness that can sometimes dominate mezcal.

Photo by Jill Burrow of OAX Original limited edition mezcal from Oaxaca
Not only is OAX Original’s mezcal artisanal, so are its bottles, which feel like stone and are designed in homage to 20th-century Mexican architecture. (Photo: Jill Burrow for OAX Original)

While not an inexpensive gift for yourself or someone else (the bottles cost from US $114– $194), purchasing one of these small runs means you have a libation that is exclusive to the batch and season and is irreplaceable in your collection.

OAX Original mezcal can be found most easily on the company’s website, but if you’re in the U.S., it’s also now available in shops in California, Florida, New York, New Jersey, Texas, New Mexico, Colorado and Oregon and a selected number of bars in New York and New Jersey. Consult their website for a directory of businesses carrying it. 

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.