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Cancún to Playa del Carmen route of the Maya Train begins operations

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A green and silver train at sunset
The star of Sheinbaum's proposed Maya corridor is the new Maya Train. (Maya Train/X)

The Cancún to Playa del Carmen stretch of Section 5 of the Maya Train — which was already inaugurated on Feb. 29 by President López Obrador — started operations last Friday, just in time for the long weekend in observance of Benito Juárez’s birthday.

Although both stations in Cancún and Playa del Carmen are still under construction, they are fully operational.

On Saturday, the newspaper La Jornada reported that at least 100 people boarded the train at the Playa del Carmen station for the first service of the day, at 10:30 a.m., arriving at the Cancún Airport station at 11:45 a.m.

According to the Maya Train’s website, departures from Cancún to Playa are at 9 a.m., 12 p.m., and 3 p.m., while departures from Playa del Carmen to Cancún are at 10:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 4:30 p.m.

Economy tickets for residents of Quintana Roo are 98 pesos (US $6), 148 pesos (US $8) for other Mexicans, and 197 pesos (US $11) for international travelers.

First-class tickets start at 236 pesos (US $14) for Mexicans and 397 pesos (US $23) for international travelers.

Cancún Maya Train station
The Maya Train stations in Cancún (pictured) and Playa del Carmen are open to the public. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro.com)

All train tickets include a shuttle service to the Cancún International Airport (AIC) terminals, while buses to the city center cost $55 pesos (US $3).

Electric buses are set to be introduced for transfers between AIC and the Maya Train’s airport station.

According to news outlet Por Esto, the airport perimeter road has already been built while construction of a connecting passage that crosses Highway 180 is still pending.

Section 5 is still not fully operational. On Feb. 16, a federal court ordered the suspension of construction from Playa del Carmen to Tulum due to the negative effects of construction works on the subsoil. The court ordered a definitive suspension of the works until the responsible authorities have demonstrated that “geological, geophysical and geohydrological studies” have been carried out.

While sections 1 to 4 have been operational since the train’s inauguration in December last year, President Andrés Manuel López Obrador acknowledged that the inauguration of all the Maya Train routes and stations would not take place until after the June 2 elections.

With reports from La Jornada Maya, Por Esto, and El Economista

Why are Mexico’s largest lakes disappearing?

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Valle de Bravo dry lake
Valle de Bravo, a popular man-made lake, could be down to 17% capacity by July 2024. (Crisanta Espinosa Aguilar/Cuartoscuro)

More than half of the world’s large lakes and two-thirds of its rivers are drying up, threatening ecosystems, farming and drinking water supplies.

Mexico is no exception: Millions of people in Mexico are at risk of losing water supply as the country’s largest bodies of water continue to dry up at a rapid rate.

Lake Chapala (bordering the states of Jalisco and Michoacán), Lake Cuitzeo (in  Michoacán), Lake Zumpango (in México state) and the Colorado River in northern Mexico are all facing extinction according to a report by the news site Sin Embargo.

The Guadalajara metropolitan area depends on Lake Chapala for its potable water, but authorities have been unable to devise a plan to address the crisis.

A study in February indicated that Lake Chapala, Mexico’s largest freshwater lake, is at just 45% of capacity as a result of an extended drought as well as poor water management.

Between 1980 and 2002, more than 500 dams were built on the Lerma River causing lake levels to drop dramatically. By 2003, lake levels were at a staggering 15% of capacity. As a result, the federal government designated Lake Chapala a protected lake and forced farmers to allow more water through their dams to maintain the lake at 60% capacity.

Lake Cuitzeo
Michoacán’s Lake Cuitzeo has lost 70% of its water in just two and a half decades. (Juan José Estrada Serafín/Cuartoscuro)

Since then, drought and uneven rainfall has seen lake levels drop, registering below 50% capacity for the past two years.

Last month, we reported that Lake Cuitzeo, the country’s second-largest freshwater lake, has lost 70% of its water over the past 25 years.

Nearby cities and towns depended on the lake for drinking water, agriculture and commercial activities. The economies of the lake-side towns relied heavily on fishing, as both a food supply and by way of fishing charters.

Lake, or Lagoon, Zumpango — a regulating reservoir north of Mexico City — is not only threatened by drought but also by the construction of the Felipe Ángeles International Airport (AIFA) directly next to the protected wetland.

Drought and high temperatures have caused a significant amount of water loss in the area, such that the wetland is no longer a tourist attraction, and many of the 200 bird species that frequented the lake are no longer arriving.

The lack of tourists to the lagoon and a rise in disease traceable to the increase in effluence in the lake (up to 30% of the lake is made up of wastewater) have prompted residents to close down shops and move to look for work elsewhere.

The National Water Commission (Conagua) has been attending to the Colorado River crisis since 2022 when it declared an emergency in four northern states after large sections of the river dried up completely.

More than 40 million people depend on the Colorado River which extends from the United States into Baja California. By treaty, Mexico is to receive 1.5 million acre-feet of water annually, but climate change and drought has seen that figure drop in recent years. Last year, Mexico received 7% less than that agreed to with the U.S.

Farmers and city managers in northern Mexico have been meeting with Conagua to devise conservation plans but they are a work in progress. U.S. authorities, blaming climate change and drought, have also been enforcing new conservation rules while officials in seven U.S. states are also learning how to get by with less water.

With reports from Sin Embargo and El Informador

Sinaloa Cartel ‘lieutenant’ known as ‘El 50’ arrested in Sonora

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National Guard members with alleged Sinaloa Cartel leader
Gilberto Martínez Rentería, known as "El 50," was captured in Nogales, Sonora on Friday. Reportedly, no shots were fired during the arrest. (Screen capture)

An alleged Sinaloa Cartel leader known as “El 50” was arrested in Nogales, Sonora, on Friday during a federal operation supported by an armed helicopter.

Close to 200 soldiers and members of the National Guard participated in the operation to detain Gilberto Martínez Rentería in the northern border city, according to reports.

Sinaloa Cartel chart OFAC
In this chart published in 2021, the man identified as 36-year-old Martínez Rentería appears much older than the suspect apprehended on Friday. (OFAC)

Martínez — identified by U.S. authorities in 2021 as a “cartel lieutenant” who reports to “Sinaloa Cartel plaza boss” Sergio Valenzuela — was subsequently transferred to Mexico City, where he is in the custody of the federal Attorney General’s Office.

In September of 2021, he was designated by the U.S. Department of the Treasury Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) as a narcotics trafficker pursuant to the Foreign Narcotics Kingpin Designation Act.

Media outlets in Sonora reported that Martínez is the main generator of violence in Nogales, located opposite the city of the same name in Arizona. In addition to drug trafficking, he is linked to crimes including murder, kidnapping and extortion.

In Nogales, Martínez allegedly led a cartel cell known as “Los Demonios” that works for Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada, the top leader of the Sinaloa Cartel.

According to U.S. authorities, Martínez was born on May 14, 1987, meaning that he is 36.

A purported photo of the accused criminal published by OFAC appears to show a significantly older man, whereas the suspect appears much younger in new footage broadcast by Foro TV after his arrest.

With reports from Aristegui Noticias and El Universal 

Got 1 min? Hundreds take a mass ‘siesta’ in Mexico City

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Mexico City residents signed up to take a collective siesta, or nap, on Friday afternoon.
The event brought approximately 350 people together to take a nap on a sidewalk. (@alcanzandohoy/X)

Approximately 350 people laid down to take a nap on Friday in the middle of one of the noisiest and busiest cities in the world.

How many actually drifted off wasn’t known, but the World Sleep Day event next to the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City was the first of its kind in the world according to Mexican media reports.

World Sleep Day, which began in 2008, is commemorated every year on the Friday before the spring equinox of the Northern Hemisphere. Its slogan this year was “’Sleep Equity for Global Health.”

Held from 5 to 6:30 p.m., the event was “a peaceful demonstration for our right to rest,” said Javier Velázquez Moctezuma, the director of the Sleep and Neuroscience Center (CSN). “The cheapest medicine that exists is to sleep well,” he added.

“A person who sleeps well makes better decisions, is healthier and has less risk of physical and mental illnesses,” pointed out Dr. Guadalupe Terán Pérez, a sleep expert and CSN researcher. “On many occasions, the work schedules we have, the commutes we make [and] living in a globalized society do not allow us to guarantee this right.”

The independently-organized event also included a guided meditation and talks about the value of sleep, with tips on how to sleep better.

In the end, people were given only about 20 minutes for their nap, according to the newspaper La Jornada. Pre-registration was required to participate, and blue yoga mats, sleeping masks and travel pillows were provided.

According to the World Health Organization, around 40% of the world’s population experiences sleep disorders, the most common being insomnia.

The experts at the event said babies should sleep around 18 hours a day, children 10-12 hours, adolescents 8-9 hours and adults 7-8 hours.

In addition, the footrace “Corre por tus Sueños” (Run for your Dreams) was held on Sunday in the Bosque de Tlalpan National Park south of CDMX. Its aim was to support patients with sleep disorders who need specialized treatment.

If you happened to, uh, sleep through this year’s World Sleep Day, mark down your calendars for 2025, when it is scheduled for March 14.

With reports from La Jornada and El Financiero

Fire breaks out at A-list wedding in San Miguel de Allende

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A fire at a San Miguel wedding venue.
The fire immediately consumed the venue where members of Mexico's elite were celebrating the wedding of a supermarket heir. (@noticiasgto1/X)

A fire at a lavish wedding in San Miguel de Allende on Saturday night injured 27 people, five of whom required treatment in hospital.

A short circuit reportedly caused the late-night blaze, which quickly engulfed a section of Hacienda Los Arcángeles where hundreds of guests were celebrating the wedding of a couple from northern Mexico.

Four guests and a DJ providing music for the event sustained burns that warranted treatment in a hospital, while 22 attendees suffered from smoke inhalation and/or minor burns and were treated at the scene. Other attendees rushed out of the venue to escape the danger.

According to a report by News San Miguel, an “excess of artificial foliage” used to adorn the venue and the proximity of that decoration to lighting and cables “contributed to the rapid spread of the fire.”

“Everything happened in seconds,” said one guest quoted by the news site Reporte Indigo.

“We thought it was lighting and when we realized that a column was in fact on fire we started running. The fire spread and the roof started falling onto us,” the person said.

A large marquee set up in a garden area of the hacienda was “completely consumed” by flames, News San Miguel reported.

Hacienda Los Arcángeles said in a statement that emergency services and its own personnel responded quickly to the fire and that “there were only some people with injuries” and they all received the medical care they needed.

“Despite this terrible event, the premises didn’t sustain major damage and we’re working diligently to ensure that … [the hacienda] is completely operational as soon as possible,” said Hacienda Los Arcángeles, a venue located around three kilometers east of the center of San Miguel de Allende, a popular tourism destination in the state of Guanajuato.

Municipal authorities said that firefighters extinguished the blaze in less than two hours, but the news magazine Proceso reported that “some clouds of smoke” were still being attended to on Sunday morning.

The bride and groom have been identified in media reports as Roberta and Alberto. Alberto is reportedly a member of the family of Martín Bringas, owner of the Soriana supermarket chain and one of Mexico’s richest people.

San Miguel de Allende is a popular wedding location for Mexicans from different parts of the country and for foreigners. According to the newspaper Reforma, an average of 20 weddings are held at the city’s haciendas and other exclusive venues every weekend.

With reports from Proceso, Reforma, News San Miguel and Reporte Indigo  

The secret cave restaurant hidden beneath Mexico City’s pyramids

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la gruta restaurante
Teotihuacán's La Gruta cave restaurant should be an essential part of any trip to the pyramids. (La Gruta MX)

Years ago, I booked a trip to Panama. I told a friend about my plans and he said “You absolutely have to go to Bocas del Toro.” 

“Ugh,” I responded with dramatic flair, “No way. That place looks so touristy.”

La Gruta offers a range of delicious traditional Mexican dishes. (La Gruta MX)

He responded, “Yeah. For a reason.”

I thought for a moment. My friend had a point. Curious people all over the world are drawn to that which is beautiful, alluring, mysterious or uncommon. 

His words have always stuck with me, thus making me more open-minded to what I once abhorred as a quintessential tourist trap – because there are some that are worth the crowds. Would you go to China without seeing the Great Wall? To Egypt without seeing the Pyramids? Would you skip the Tequila train in Guadalajara just because it was too touristy? 

Probably not, and you probably shouldn’t. 

The restaurant also offers a chance to cool off from the heat with a refreshing cocktail. (La Gruta MX)

Neither should you forgo a meal in La Gruta, the famous cave restaurant just a few steps from the ancient Mesoamerican city of Teotihuacán. It’s so visually captivating, one might argue that it should have made it onto our recent list of Top 10 Instagrammed locations in CDMX.

Since 1906, La Gruta has been serving up traditional and pre-Hispanic dishes in an underground cave behind the Pyramid of the Sun, one of the planet’s 10 largest pyramids. 

Because the restaurant is located in the Teotihuacán Archaeological zone, about 40 miles outside of Mexico City, it’s full of tourists. Don’t let that stop you. Here are 10 reasons to make a reservation at La Gruta after your visit to Mexico’s most spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site.

  1. It’s farm-to-table
    La Gruta has their own farm where they cultivate greens, mushrooms, flowers and herbs used for flavor and garnish. The restaurant works with Gerónimo Nieto of San Francisco Mazapa in México state to harvest the corn used in their homemade tortillas and pan de elote.
  2. They support local artisans
    Staff uniforms are hand-embroidered by a community of women in Mazahua, México state, whose designs are inspired by the Mexica (Aztec) Corn God Centéotl.
  3. They’re environmentally conscious
    La Gruta developed a program known as KM 0. Its goal is to reduce CO2 emissions by consuming local ingredients, thus eliminating the transportation of products like organic eggs, nopal and tomatoes that are not cultivated on site.
  4. The space is healing
    Speaking of the environment, at La Gruta you’ll sit at a brightly-colored table surrounded by volcanic rock. Also known as lava rock, it’s a powerful element said to clear negative emotions and bring a sense of peace and calm. 
  5. You’ll have a chance at rebirth
    When you’re presented with the bill (which I can guarantee will be pricier than almost anywhere else in México state, but again, it’s the unique experience you’re paying for), you will be given a candle. According to legend, lighting a candle and placing it in the cave’s walls is a symbol of rebirth.                                                                                                                                                                                                               

    The restaurant allows diners to feast inside a cave hewn from volcanic rock. (La Gruta)
  6. There’s a kids menu
    Hallelujah! A kids menu! While not extensive, La Gruta offers soup, pasta, chicken and dessert for children.
  7. They can accommodate vegetarians There are soups, salads and a vegetarian entree that can easily be made vegan by withholding the cheese and opting for avocado in its place.
  8. The barbacoa The meat of free-grazing local sheep is cooked in underground ovens for 12 hours, a pre-Hispanic barbeque technique that enhances the lamb’s flavor and softens the texture. It’s the most traditional dish in the region and one of the most popular choices on the menu.
  9. The adult beverages are fun
    Taste the rainbow with La Gruta’s array of colorful margaritas, including Mexican flavors like Xoconostle (pink tuna fruit), tamarind and mango. 
  10. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner – every day of the year!
    La Gruta is open 365 days a year from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. It’s advisable to make a reservation, especially if you’re dining during peak hours or with a large group. Don’t be late, though, as reservations are held for only 10 minutes.

Not to mention, how many caves have you dined in? My guess is not many. Here’s your chance to tick a memorable experience off your bucket list while chowing down on fresh cactus salad and a zesty margarita. Buen provecho!

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga, and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters in your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

Who was Benito Juárez, the revolutionary hero who shaped Mexico?

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Benito Juárez has become a mythical figure among Mexicans. Find out why March 18 is a public holiday in his honor. (Wikimedia Commons)

March 21st commemorates more than just the start of spring; it’s the day that Mexico celebrates the birthday of Benito Juárez — with a public holiday falling on the first day of that week to mark the occasion. 

You might recognize the name Benito Juárez from street names around the country, school history books, trendy colonia Juárez in Mexico City, Ciudad Juárez in the state of Chihuahua or the Benito Juárez International Airport in Mexico City, one of the biggest in the world. But, why is Benito Juárez so important?

Juárez is perhaps Mexico’s most celebrated president, with monuments commemorating his leadership across the country. (Gabriela Pérez Montiel/Cuartoscuro)

Benito Juárez was Mexico’s first Indigenous president and 17th overall. He governed for 14 years, from 1857 to 1872, and was responsible for the two main reforms that shaped Mexico: Support for the Constitution of 1857, and a series of laws called the Laws of Reform. These laws secularized education, broke up large landholdings and limited the influence of the clergy in government affairs. With these moves, Juárez sought to transform Mexico into a more equitable and progressive society. 

Many historians believe Benito Juárez’s presidency was responsible for consolidating Mexico as a Republic and setting it on the path to becoming the country it is today.  

Early life and education

Benito Juárez was born on March 21, 1806, in San Pablo Guelatao, Oaxaca (now called Guelatao de Juárez). Juárez was orphaned very early in his life, and the rest of his upbringing was highly influenced by religious education. Eventually, he moved to the town of Oaxaca, where he pursued an education in law at the Institute of Arts and Sciences of Oaxaca. He became the first ever person from the school to graduate as a lawyer. 

The Benito Juárez monument in his hometown of Guelatao, Oaxaca. (Andres García/Wikimedia)

Fifteen years later, Juárez became governor of Oaxaca. In that role, he created roads, founded schools, reorganized the National Guard and left the Treasury in surplus. 

After governing Oaxaca for five years, Juárez was named Justice Minister under the government of President Juan Álvarez. As minister, he created the Juárez law, which eliminated “special courts” that judged members of the clergy and the army in civil trials, which gave more lenient punishments or in many cases, no punishments at all. 

This was the first law of many to come. 

Benito Juárez’s presidency

Benito Juárez became president only 36 years after Mexico gained independence from Spain, and nine years after the country lost half of its territory to the United States. It was a politically turbulent time in Mexico when the country faced foreign intervention and civil strife. The measures Juárez took to pacify and reform Mexico during his government became the basis for the prosperity that the country experienced over the following decades. 

“If we’re able to, as I hope, ensure permanent order and tranquility, I will have satisfied the biggest of all my wishes and will be buried with the conviction that our country will be grand and happy in the future,” he wrote.

Juárez was a great reformist, who transformed Mexico from a shattered nation into an independent and constitutionally-bound republic. (Wikimedia Commons)

Here are some of the things Benito Juárez did after becoming president

  • He triumphed in the face of France’s intervention between 1862 and 1867 and preserved Mexican independence and sovereignty;
  • His constitutional reform included strengthening and achieving balance between all three powers of the Republic and re-establishing the Senate;
  • He made primary school obligatory;
  • He established civil marriage, which took power away from religion and made marriage a civil contract with the State;
  • The establishment of a Civil Registry, which was previously controlled by the church;
  • Passed the “Cult Freedom Law”, which permitted anyone to choose and practice their own religious beliefs.  

Other facts about Juárez

  • He was one of two presidents whose term ended due to their death. The other was Venustiano Carranza (1917-1920).
  • He was 1 meter and 37 centimeters tall (4’6’’).
  • He was of Zapotec descent. 
  • In addition to Zapotec and Spanish, he could read and write in Latin, French and English.
  • The city of Ciudad Juárez in Chihuahua is named after him because in 1863 he moved his government there to protect himself from conservative and monarchist supporters who sought to overthrow his rule.
  • He is responsible for one of the most celebrated phrases in Mexican history, and widely known by most Mexicans: ”Among individuals, as among nations, respect for the rights of others is peace.” (Entre los individuos como entre las naciones, el respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz.)

Benito Juárez’s impact on Mexico cannot be overstated. His dedication to reform and democracy transformed Mexico into a modern republic and away from the imperialist and monarchical state that it had been before. Thanks to his unwavering commitment to democracy, social justice, Indigenous rights and national sovereignty, he remains an example and inspiration to the country as a whole.

As we continue to navigate the challenges of globalization and the modern era, let’s hope Juarez’s reforms continue to resonate with leaders striving for a better future. 

Montserrat Castro Gómez is a freelance writer and translator from Querétaro, México.

India meets Mexico through the practice of yoga

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Be in the now. Live in the moment. Accept things how they are. The Indian morals of yoga are a wise approach to life in Mexico. (Kaya Kudos)

Yosef Zur grew up on a kibbutz. For him, the day to day of such a lifestyle was rather mundane. Everyone wore, did, and seemed to believe the same thing. Everyone, that is, but him. Yosef felt disconnected from the community and its goals, leading him to think there was something wrong with himself. This nagging doubt resulted in years of eating disorders, body dysmorphia, and general self-hate.

“I was always looking for something to bring magic,” Yosef remembers. And then one day, he was given a book about India. He realized that there were other cultures with different ideas about life, more philosophies out there that might help him understand his distorted feelings. 

Yosef Zur was looking for more out of life when he discovered yoga, and the rich spirituality of India. (tulum_portraits/Instagram)

At age 32, he decided to move to New York.

Ironically, it was in the United States that his interest in India resurfaced through the yoga practice of Ashtanga. According to website Yogapedia, Ashtanga is:

…named after the term given in Patanjali’s Yoga Sutras for the eightfold path of yoga, or ashtanga, meaning “eight-limbed” in Sanskrit. [The eight-limbed path is a holistic guide towards liberation and self-realization.]

It was Sri K. Pattabhi’s belief that the asana [postural] “limb” of yoga must be practiced before the others could be mastered. The practice was developed in Mysore, India where Sri K. Pattabhi Jois taught and set up the Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute.

Yosef’s life quickly became all about the path of Ashtanga. He committed to the standard six days a week physical practice of postures [asana] and immersed himself in ancient Indian philosophy. The readings and scripts are where he experienced an instant, powerful connection. “It wasn’t until that moment that I actually understood what I was feeling in words. There was a homecoming element to it,” Yosef explains. “Here was a philosophy that came from outside of me, from a different country, yet it connected me to a truth of life and human experience that I had always felt.”

This interest in Indian philosophy led him on a journey of movement, veganism, meditation, and travel to India. He started practicing with an Ashtanga master in New York, with whom he eventually began his career as an instructor. Through practice, Yosef learned a valuable concept that he hadn’t grasped as an insecure, self-deprecating youth — self-love. 

After 11 years of teaching in New York, it became apparent to Yosef that it was time to move on. “I quit and didn’t know what to do. I thought about moving to India or Thailand, but then I remembered a yoga student had mentioned his friend’s yoga retreat center in Tulum.” 

Because Yosef spent five years as a child living in Nicaragua with his family, he spoke Spanish fluently and felt comfortable with Latin culture. After reaching out to the owner of the retreat center and receiving an invitation to visit, he went to Mexico.

While India was magical, it was Tulum where Yosef really found inner peace. (tulum_portraits/Instagram)

“It’s funny,” says Yosef, “the first time I went to Bangalore to take the train to Mysore, I thought to myself ‘This looks so much like Central America’. And then I get to Mexico and I think ‘this feels so much like India!’” The smell of burning copal in the morning, the traditional languages and costumes of small villages, the artisanship and intricate textiles — these cultural similarities made him feel right at home and ready to start teaching.

Yoself picked up classes fast once arriving in Mexico and just as quickly learned how to adapt. Most notably, he had to let go of the structure of time. “Mexico is showing me to be in the now. It’s teaching me how to live in the moment and accept things as they are.” 

Which, by all accounts, is the overarching lesson of yoga.

In other words, Mexico has taught Yosef the true meaning of yoga.

Assimilating into Mexican culture is exactly this. A slowing down, an appreciation for what is, a sense of human connection and above all, humility. It’s interacting with people of all classes and ages, cultivating respect for the wisdom of ancient practices and developing an innate understanding that we’re all here together on this planet, so we might as well laugh and sing while we’ve got the chance. 

The essence of Ashtanga yoga is not a religious one. It’s a spiritual one, which is why, according to Yosef, Mexicans connect with it so well. As a relatively conservative Catholic society, “Mexicans are not looking for a religious connection [because they likely already have it]…they’re looking at [yoga] from a spiritual lens, they want the essence.” And it’s easier to connect to the essence of yoga’s teaching when it’s not intellectualized, like it tends to be in countries like the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. It’s a profound acceptance that has to be felt internally. 

Be in the now. Live in the moment. Accept things how they are. The morals of yoga are a wise approach to life in Mexico.

Just like the practice of Ashtanga, moving to Mexico requires you to be humble. As Yosef puts it, it means “leaving what you think you know outside. You came here, they didn’t come to you. You came here as a student.” Life in Mexico is a golden opportunity to learn and adapt to a new way of doing things.

The beaches of Quintana Roo have become an increasingly popular spot for yoga in recent years. (Elizabeth Ruiz/Cuartoscuro)

Yosef is dedicated to leading his students through the reality of Ashtanga, the “friction between wanting something, not achieving, but showing up anyway.” Doesn’t that sound a bit like…learning Spanish?

This begs the question — will yoga deepen your connection to Mexico, or will life in Mexico deepen your connection to yoga?

That’s for you to decide.

If you’re in the Tulum area, practice with Yosef between Monday — Friday at Holistika Tulum

This article is part of Mexico News Daily’s “India in Focus” series. Read the other articles from the series here

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The ‘unbelievable’ benefit of learning a new language

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New research suggests that learning a second language could be the key to unlocking your brain. (Brooke Cagle/Unsplash)

Ever wanted another reason to dust off your Spanish textbooks, unfold creased vocabulary lists from last summer or restart your daily streak on the language learning app you habitually swipe past? This might just be it.

In 2023, after years of planning, research and independent trials, University of Chicago professor Boaz Keysar sat down to examine the results of his latest psychological experiment. He sought to find out whether thinking in a foreign language affects the quality of our decision-making.

Professor Keysar described his findings as “unbelievable.” (Lisa Yount/Unsplash)

The results were “unbelievable,” according to Keysar.

Making decisions in a foreign language can help our choices become more rational, flexible, open-minded and logical. The data from Keysar’s trials showed that the process of moving from our native tongue to a second language can change the way we think.

The reason is that brain functions related to thinking in a foreign language and the cognitive processes used create a level of emotional distance in what we say and the decisions we make.

Changing our morals for the better?

A high-speed train is barrelling down the tracks below the bridge you’re standing on. You see five people walking on the tracks ahead, who in short order will be hit by the train and killed instantly. The only way to save them is to push the person next to you off the bridge and onto the tracks, thereby bringing the train to a stop and saving the lives of the five further ahead.

Would you sacrifice the life of one person to save five?

Keysar, himself bilingual, wanted to find out whether the way a person would react to this ethical dilemma would vary if they thought about the problem in one’s mother tongue and in a second language.

The utilitarian response — meaning the best outcome for the most people — is to actively push the man in front of the train because you would save four lives. But many decide against it because the idea of actively taking a life fills them with dread and terror and would instead opt to take no action. 

Keysar used this problem for his first experiment. Fluent second-language Spanish speakers were asked to consider the decision in Spanish and in their native English. The results showed unequivocally that, those asked in their adopted Spanish, would choose to push the man in front of the train to save the five otherwise certain for death.

According to journalist David Robson, the “effect was so big that Keysar delayed publishing the results” because Keysar simply “couldn’t believe the data.” 

Keysar then increased the sample of participants dramatically and later expanded his experiment to include people from the United States, Europe and Asia. The results were equally one-sided. One sample found that participants “were twice as likely to choose the utilitarian option when speaking and thinking in a second language.” 

In July 2023, Keysar teamed up with a fellow professor, David Gallo to further examine the benefits of learning another language. Gallo described how “speaking in your native language can lull your brain into being less able to process information objectively.”

“Your emotions start to impede your rationality,” he said. “This speeds up your decision-making, meaning you more prone to mistakes.”

Other benefits of learning a second language include increased memory and reduced likelihood of illness. (Unsplash)

Testing the theory in Oaxaca

After reading Keysar’s research, I wanted to put the theory to the test, but I had reservations about whether thinking in another language would change the decisions I make. I called my Spanish teacher, Barbara, who rather paradoxically, is also one of the most in-demand English teachers in Oaxaca city.

I first heard about her — and her reputation — from Mexican friends. Barbara is originally from Poland, with word-perfect English and fluency in Spanish.

My partner and I became her first and only Spanish students in the spring of 2023, and the way she thoughtfully spoke about teaching English was so impressive.

Speaking about the barriers to language learning, Barbara described how “We all have different needs, fears, and difficulties when it comes to learning. We also have different experiences to relate to.”

Gordon put the theory to the test in Oaxaca city. (Roman López/Unsplash)

The fear and difficulty of language learning is something every learner has felt. It hinders us from taking the next steps to getting better in a new language, which once achieved could be the very thing that enables us to think more rationally.

“We, as adults, learn best by doing, trying, practicing and, also, failing,” Barbara added. “But on top of that, we need to know why we are trying. What is this learning for?”

Barbara’s opinion points to the rationality in learning. Thinking logically is something we aim to do with learning as soon as we formulate patterns in verb endings and sentence structures, and then try to commit them to memory. 

And by doing this, we take one step closer to being able to achieve fluency, which would allow us to think in a foreign language if we put our minds to it. 

Keysar and Gallo’s research might not seem relevant to everyone. But it’s a fresh perspective on the benefits of language learning traditions which are as old as time. At the very least, it’s another hidden benefit of spending an extra five minutes rewriting your most recent lesson notes, pushing yourself outside of your comfort zone to go to a Spanish-speaking hairdresser or restarting this time, life-long streak on Duolingo.

Gordon Cole-Schmidt is a public relations specialist and freelance journalist, advising and writing on companies and issues across multi-national communication programs.

The best of both worlds: How to prepare delicious pescado a la veracruzana

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pescado a la veracruzana
Created during the early days of the Spanish conquest, pescado a la veracruzana is old-world sophistication and new-world flavor. (Shutterstock)

Pescado a la veracruzana holds a special place in my heart as one of my all-time favorite dishes. The fresh ingredients in this recipe create a Mediterranean-Mexican fusion that is as satisfying as it is delicious. Its versatility shines through as it can be prepared with various types of fish and is suitable for anything from everyday meals to special occasions. 

In English, we would probably translate “a la veracruzana” as “Veracruz-style.” The dish itself is the story of two worlds coming together. It is a marriage of the bountiful seafood of the Gulf of Mexico and tomatoes, which are native to the Americas, with Spanish ingredients such as olives, garlic and capers. In this sense, pescado a la veracruzana also reflects the historical legacy of the time when the port of Veracruz was Spain’s gateway into Mexico. 

On April 22, 1519, an expedition under the command of Hernán Cortés disembarked in what is today the state of Veracruz, establishing the first Spanish colony in Mexico. (Wikimedia Commons)

In 1521, Hernán Cortés founded the town of Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz (Rich Village of the True Cross) in what is today Veracruz. This settlement not only served as a starting point for the Spanish colonization of Mexico but also served as a key logistical center for Cortés’ ambitious campaigns. The port of Veracruz became a crucial point of entry for Spanish ships and supplies, facilitating further exploration and the eventual conquest of Mexico. The strategic significance of Veracruz extended beyond military operations, as it became a hub for trade and cultural exchange between Europe and the Americas.

Legend has it that the origins of pescado a la veracruzana trace back to the Lenten traditions when locals sought satisfying alternatives to red meat during this period of abstinence. Inspired by Biscayne sauce from Spain, this savory medley of sautéed onions, garlic, peppers, tomatoes, olives, capers, herbs and spices, simmered until thickened, creates a hearty topping for fish filets. Garnished with vibrant cilantro or parsley, the flavorful dish is traditionally served alongside white rice or baby potatoes.

While red snapper is commonly preferred for pescado a la veracruzana, tilapia or sea bass are also excellent choices for this recipe. Veracruzana sauce is renowned for its unique balance of flavors and its mildness — unlike many other Mexican sauces, it doesn’t use any hot peppers. However, those seeking an extra kick usually add a few pickled chiles güeros. When I make this at home, I prefer to forego the chilis and instead opt for a generous dash of spicy paprika.

Pescado a la Veracruzana is cooked in the oven for 20 minutes, making it a quick and simple dish to prepare. (Unsplash)

Now, let’s dive into how you can recreate this culinary masterpiece in your kitchen:

Ingredients:

– 4 filets of white fish (such as red snapper, sea bass or tilapia)

– Olive oil

– 1 onion, sliced

– 4 large cloves of garlic, sliced

– 4 tomatoes, diced

– 1 cup tomato puree

– ½ cup pitted green olives

– ½ cup capers in brine, drained

– ½ tsp dried oregano

– ¼ tsp dried thyme

– 1 bay leaf

– 3 tbsp fresh cilantro, minced

– 3 pickled güero chilis (optional) 

  • Fry the onions in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil until soft and translucent. Then add the sliced garlic and fry until slightly brown. 
  • Add the diced tomatoes and sauté until softened. 
  • Add the tomato puree, chiles, olives, capers, oregano, thyme and bay leaf. Turn the heat to low and simmer for about 20 minutes to reduce the amount of liquid and concentrate the flavors. Add salt and pepper to taste. 
  • Stir the fresh minced cilantro into the sauce for just a couple of minutes before serving.
  • To achieve a fish that’s crispy on the outside, you need to get the surface very dry before frying by using paper towels to remove as much moisture from the surface as possible. Then lightly season with salt and pepper and cover with a thin layer of all-purpose flour.
  • Add oil to a frying pan over medium-high heat and fry both sides of the fish in the pan until cooked through. 
  • Plate each filet, add a heaping scoop of the sauce on top and serve.

The delightful blend of savory and aromatic flavors in this sauce can be creatively incorporated into a variety of dishes beyond fish. Its rich tomato base with herbs and spices lends itself beautifully to enhancing other seafood delicacies like shrimp or scallops. I also love it smeared on a slice of bread or for topping hearty grains like quinoa or couscous. 

Veracruzana sauce is a healthy and versatile partner for your culinary creations. Each savory bite not only delights your taste buds but also serves as a delicious connection to centuries of cultural fusion. Whether you’re getting creative in the kitchen or venturing into new flavors, make sure veracruzana sauce is on your menu.

Sandra Gancz is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com