I remember it clearly. I was about 12 or 13 years old and still did not know how to ride a bike. Neither did my sister. My dad thought this was simply unacceptable at that point. One Sunday, early in the morning, he loaded his truck with water, electrolytes, helmets and other things he thought we could use. “We are going to Reforma,” he said, “and you will learn how to ride a bike once and for all.”
It was a bright April morning; we had not had breakfast and everybody was confused. Even my mom seemed surprised, too, but couldn’t hide a hint of excitement in her eyes. We left the car in a nearby public parking lot and headed straight to Reforma Avenue, one of Mexico City’s main arteries since the second half of the 19th century.
That was the first Sunday my family was a part of the Muévete en Bici program, a government initiative to get people to enjoy their city without the need of a car or a bus ride. Many weekends followed, in which my sister and I learned — not without some tears of frustration — to ride a bike at the ripe old ages of 10 and 13, respectively. After many attempts, I finally got rid of the training wheels and was able to race across Reforma amidst a swarm of entire families, professional racers and other folks who awaited every weekend just to hop on a bike and sightsee our historic center — potholes and all.
Muévete en Bici is so much more than just bikers
Little did I know that this same track was a part of the Cycleway Network of the Americas, an international organization of “urban interventions,” as they describe themselves on their official website, aiming to “transform cities through recreational cycleways.”
In their childhoods, my parents would have never imagined the capital’s government shutting down one of the city’s main avenues just for people to enjoy themselves on a weekend. But that is exactly what Muévete en Bici does: across town, several arteries of the capital are completely or partially closed for bicycle users to ride freely.
Across town, the streets that lead to major tourist attractions are closed from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. every Sunday. Paseo de la Reforma, the Historic Center, Hipódromo Condesa and Roma Norte figure among some of the most popular areas. However, the initiative is not limited to tourist hot spots. Patriotismo Avenue and Calzada de Guadalupe are closed, too, which has allowed families like mine to take the Centro Histórico-Lagunilla route. Some people take this as a devotional opportunity and undertake an urban pilgrimage to Basílica de Guadalupe. Others, as a chance to explore their own city in a bike-friendly environment.
Into the depths of Reforma and beyond
I remember my mother guiding us across Reforma all the way to Mercado de la Lagunilla, a traditional antiquities market blocks away from Tepito, commonly referred to as the “barrio bravo” of the Cuauhtémoc borough. Local merchants have adapted their businesses to receive foreigners, and sell every kind of trinket directly on the street, from LP records, to Super 8 cameras and gorgeous pieces of Bauhaus furniture. Diego Rivera and Rafael Coronel fakes are scattered among the puestos on the street, too.
If you’re not an antiques nerd like me, do not miss the opportunity to try a licuachela: the legendary beer served in a blender. They usually have ‘escarcha’, a layer of lemon with chili powder and salt on the edges. You can also add gummies and other sweet toppings to your drink. And yes, that’s haute Mexican cuisine, for sure.
It’s worth clarifying that getting to La Lagunilla takes at least 40 minutes by bike from Centro Histórico. Despite the fact that it has been integrated into the Muévete en Bici activities, it’s also worth mentioning that the antiquities market is only available on Sundays. If you truly want to go, please consider arriving before noon and leaving before dusk, as the neighboring streets can get dangerous after dark. I would strongly advise not going too deep into the market, too, especially if you’re a newcomer.
- Where? One block east of the monument to José de San Martín, on Paseo de la Reforma.
This, of course, is just one of the many routes available. Over 55 kilometers (34 miles, approximately) in Mexico City are currently destined for the Muévete en Bici program every Sunday, as per the Environment Ministry’s records. Moreover, there is no set of rules as to which route to follow. Riders are free to enjoy the designated streets and avenues every weekend, according to their personal interests and goals.
Not a rider? No problem!
My mother often says that the historic center of Mexico City is “a whole ‘nother animal.” By that, she means that there is no other neighborhood that compares to it in the entire capital. If you’re not really into an antiquities adventure, it’s a safe choice to just stay at Centro Histórico. There, you can find free yoga and zumba lessons, challenging chess matches and even capoeira exhibitions. If you’re coming with children, kids can learn how to ride a bike for free with professional coaches, who usually just expect a tip at the end of class. Take a look at the schedules and available activities on the Mexico City Government’s website.
If you’re simply not in the mood for exercise on a Sunday, you can take it easy and just have a lovely stroll across Paseo de la Reforma. Especially in April, jacaranda trees are in full bloom, and the avenue is thriving in a light purple canopy. Spring is warm in Mexico City, and given that it’s the driest season in town, consider bringing a bottle of water and a parasol with you. Always wear sunblock, and please, rest whenever’s needed — and yes, that’s a yoga teacher’s advice.
Andrea Fischer contributes to the features desk at Mexico News Daily. She has edited and written for National Geographic en Español and Muy Interesante México, and continues to be an advocate for anything that screams science. Or yoga. Or both.
